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MEAT  SUBSTITUTES,  ILLUSTRATE!* 

THE  BOSTON 


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THE  BOSTON  COOKING 
5CHGDL  MAGAZINE  CQ 

372BOYISTONS" 
BOSTON  MASS 


THE  WHOLESOME 


SURPASSES  ALL  OTHERS  IN  HEALTHFUL 
AND  BAKING  QUALITIES. 

It  is  a  food  itself,  made  of  the  genuine  Professor  Horsford's 
Phosphate,  thereby  supplying  the  nutritious  and  str 
giving  phosphates  so  essential  to  health,  which  die  ^ 
moved  from  flour  in  the  process  of  bolting.     Hot  Biscuit, 
Rolls,  Muffins,  etc.,  made  vv^ith  Rumford  Baking  Powder 
can  be  eaten  hot  without  detriment. 

Its  action  in  the  dough  is  thorough,  producing  superior  Cake, 
Biscuit,  etc.,  of  the  finest  texture,  and  without  impairing 
the  most  delicate  flavorings  that  may  be  used. 

The  Best  at  a  I^easonable  Cost. 


30 


3/uM^ 


The 
Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


OF 


Culinary  Science  and  Domestic  Economics 


Volume    XV  ^X  y 

June-July,   1910— May,   1911 
Copyright,  1910,  1911,  by  The  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine  Co. 


Published  Monthly  by 

THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE    COMPANY 

372  Boylston  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


COMPLETE    INDEX,    VOL.    XV 

June  July,  1910— May,  1911 


Page 

After  Breakfast  Chat 148 

Appertaining  to  Our  Christmas  Dainties  245 

April .  440 

Autumn      133 

Autumn   Specter,  An 131 

Bargain  Hunters 463 

Baseball   Entertainment,   A 421 

Because  She  Loved  Adventure     ....  225 

Before    A    Lady's    Portrait     ......  221 

Being  Married 65 

Bridewell  Cake,  The 16 

Call  of  the  South,  The 465 

Chair   of    Manners,    A ,  173 

Chestnuting  Time       175 

Choice  Masquerade  Costumes 343 

Christmas 247 

Christmas  Tree,  The 217 

Common  Sense 363 

Cookery  in  Literature 345,  371 

Cooperative  Christma'    jJinner,  A    .    .    .  218 

Cradle   Song 277 

Daguerreotyped  ^  .aid,  The 321 

Decline  of  Ger.jiity,  The 313 

Diet  in  Typlvjid  Fever 196 

Dishes  for  Automobile  and  Picnic  Lunch- 
eons         ....  57 

Dove   and   the   Eagle,   The 152 

Do  You  Get  Pure  or  Deadly  Milk?    .    .  451 

Dumas  and  Neapolitan  Macaroni     .    .    .  462 

Editorials    ...  25,  78,  134,  182,  230,  278,  326, 

374, 422, 470 

Entrees,  Character  and  Service  of    .    .    .  436 

Experts       12 

Facts 315 

Fate 70 

Food  and  Economy 390 

Food  and  Health 484 

French  Manners      270 

Friend's    Friends,    A ;    .  413 

Garden  Seats  (III.) 3 

Goin'  to  School 108 

Grapes 133 

Group  of   Choice   Mexican   and    Spanish 

Recipes,  A 96 

Hands  that  Wash   Dishes,  The     ....  408 

Head  of  the  House,  The 466 

Heart  of  the  Home,  The 270 

Her  Potatoless  Dinner 415 

Home   Ideas  and  Economies     .    .  48,   104,  154, 
202,  251,  299,  348,  395,  441,491 

Home  Light,  The 407 

Housework 223 

How  Much  Shall  We  Spend  for  Food    .  10 

Humble  Chimney,  The   (111.) 403 

In  August      73 

In  February      344 

Innocents  Abroad 176 

Interlude,  An 417 

In  Time  of  Vacation 94 


Page 

It  Pays 457 

January       265 

June 6 

Last  of  the  Snowiclans 319 

Lessons  in  Elementary  Cooking    .    .    .41,  150, 

293,  390,  340,  438, 486 

Light   Suppers  of  the  French,  The     .    .  392 

Linda's  Dual   Personality 359 

Little  Dinners   for  January 257 

Love  and  Affection 75 

Lucy 221 

Madeira,  The  Island  of 458 

March     367 

Menus     .    .    .  35-38,  90-92,    113,   146,   147,  161, 

193-195,  242-244,  290-292,  338,  339,  386,  378, 
401,  434-435,  482 

Menus  for  Buffet    Suppers 305 

Menus  for  Church  Luncheons      ....  449 

Menus  for  Little  Dinners 209 

Menus  for  Little  Dinners  and  Luncheons  353 

Menus  for  Old    Ladies'    Home     ....  483 

Miss    Eversham's    Rug 274,  322,  368 

Modern   Taste  in'  Curtains 259 

Moral  House  Cleaning 410 

Municipal   Conscience,   A 366 

Nature's  Songs 182 

'Neath  Skies  of  June 13 

Neighborly  Girls  Find  the  Open  Sesame, 

The      14 

New  Year  Guest,  A 265 

Nursery,  The 97 

Nursery  Hangings    (111.) 307 

Nurserv    Screens 455 

Oasis    .' 130 

Old  Age 73 

On  the  Whole_ 268 

Once  in  a  While 312 

One  of  the  World's  Famous  Tables  (111.)  310 

One    Thanksgiving 171 

Our  Fireless   Cooker 490 

Out  of  Chicken  Pie 71 

Parisian  Cheap  Restaurants 247 

Passing  of  Pemmican,  The 20 

Path,    The 325 

Petty  Economies 125 

Plea  for  the  Enthusiastic  Home  Woman  460 

Potterv  of  Todav  and  Yesterdav     ...  211 

Practical  Home  Dietetics 43,  99,  295 

Psychology  of   Clothes 8 

Quaint  Customs  and  Toothsome  Dainties'  59 

Regeneration   of   Podunk 67 

Rendering   Cheese   Digestible 19 

Reprieve,    A 317 

Rhymed  Receipts  for  Any  Occasion    .    .  93 

Romany  Tent,  A n 

Rose,  the  Poppy,  and  the  Lily,  The    .    .  1 

Scallop  Fishing  from  Maine  to  Mass.  (111.)  355 
Some  Uses  to  which  the  Attic  May  Be 

Put       163 


COMPLETE  INDEX 


Page 

Souvenir   Enforced,    A 128 

Spring 398 

Substitutes   for  Meat 39 

Summer's  Passing      125 

Sun's  Wooing,  The 416 

Take  Account  of  Your  Blessings    .    .    .  169 

Task  We  Love,  The 95 

Thanksgiving 205 

Third  Meal,  The 180 

This  Day      273 

Though  the  Sea  Roar 121 

Three  Girls  Go  Blackberrying l(i 

Three  Girls  in  Gotham 318 

Use  of  Stone  in  Fire  Places 115 

Very  Latest,  The — hn  Easter  Vagary    .  320 

Window  Washing      488 

Young  Nurse,  A 168 

Seasoxable  Recipes  : 

Apples,  Blushing,  with  Sauce   (111.)  337 

Apricots,   Frozen,   City   Style     ....  34 

Asparagus.    Maltese   Sauce    (111.)     .    .  427 

Bananas,   Baked      337 

Baskets,  Christmas   (111.) 239 

Beans,     Red    Kidney,     Mexican     Style 

(111.) 28 

Biscuit,    Rye    Meal 34 

Bouillon,    jellied 82 

Bread,    Aviation    (111.) 285 

Bread,    Croutons    of •  .  426 

Bread,    Swedish    (111.)      238 

Brioche   (111.)       288 

Broth,    Clam 289 

Buns,   Floradora    (111.) 31 

Buns,  Hot  Cross   (111.) 477 

Cake,    Birthday    (111.)      287 

Cake,   Chocolate  Layer 337 

Cake,  Christmas  Fudge,  with  Fruit  and 

Nut  Filling  and   Icing    (111.)     ...  240 
Cake.    Cocoa,    with    Lilac    Decoration 

(111.)        429 

Cake,  Mrs.  Stoke's   (111.)     ......  145 

Cake,  Sponge,  with  Potato  Flour  (111.)  429 

Cake,  Tutti  Frutti  Filling  for    ...    .  287 

Cakes,  Valentine   (111.) ZZ1 

Canapes,  Crabflake  Maltaise 233 

Candy,  Turkish  Cream   (111.)     ....  384 
Cauliflower,  Cold,  with  Aspic  Mayon- 
naise (111.) 142 

Cauliflower,  Creamed,  Au  Gratin  (111.)  190 

Caviare  Medallions 281 

Charlotte,   Simple   Apple    (111.)     ...  143 

Charlotte  Russe,  Caramel  (111.)     ...  336 

Charlotte  Russe,  Prune 34 

Charlotte  Russe,  I  and  II  (111.)    ...  430 

Cheese  Course    (111.) 190 

Chicken,  Chaudfroid  of  (111.)    ....  473 

Chicken,  Fried  with  Samp    (111.)     .    .  236 

Chicken,  Princess  Stvle  (111.)     ....  332 

Chicken  and  Ham,  Terrine  of  (111.)     .  84 
Chicken   and   Macaroni,    Chafing   Dish 

Style :    .    .  473 

Chicken  Loaf  (III.) 381 

Chickens,     Giblet     Sauce,     and     Bread 

Dressing   (111.) 188 

Chops,    Lamb,    Breaded    with    Tomato 

Sauce       333 


Page 

Chops,   Lamb,    Maintenon    Style    (111.)  380- 

Chops,   Pork,   Dinner  Style    (111.)     .    .  284 

Chops,  Veal,  en  Casserole  (111.)    .    .    .  473- 

Chowder,  Green  Corn 83 

Cocktail,  Grapefruit  and  White  Grape  329 

Cocktail  of  Broiled  Live  Lobster    .    .  137 

Cocoa,  To  serve  30  or  125   (111.)     .    .  377 

Consomme,    Christmas      233- 

Cookies,  Small  Chocolate 192" 

Corn,  Green,  au  Gratin  (111.)     ....  88 

Coupes  Venus    (111.) 288 

Cream,  Apricot  Bavarian   (111.)     .    .    .  144 

Croquettes,  Crabflake 186 

Croquettes,   Ice  Cream    (111.)     ....  479 

Croquettes,   Rice,   Cheese   Sauce    (111.)  30- 

Croustades,   Potato 333 

Custard,  Boiled  with  Snow  Eggs  (111.)  477 

Custard,  Caramel   (111.) 144 

Custard,  Tomato 233- 

Cutlets,   Breaded   IMutton,   with   Cuban 

Sauce       138- 

Cutlets,  Lamb,  Laura   (111.) 475 

Eggnog,  Frozen 241 

Eggs,  Guinea  Hen's,  a  la  Christiana    .  281 

Eggs,  Halves  of.  Stuffed 425 

Eggs,  en    Cocottes  with  Asparagus     .  474 
Eggs,  Molded  with  Pimentos   (111.)     .  379 
Eggs,  Poached,  with  Pimento  and  To- 
mato Sauce 431 

Eggs,    ScramlDled,  with    Croutons     .    .  334 

Eggs,  Truffled  a  la  Muscovite  (111.)     .  329 

Egg-Yolks,    Poached    for   Soup     .    .    .  426 
Figs,     Stewed    with     Charlotte    Russe 

Cream    (111.) 478 

Fish,     Creamed     in     Potato     Cassolets 

(111.) • 186 

Fish,  Creamed  in  Scallop  Shells   (111.)  378 

Fish  Loaf,  Chowder  from  Remnants  of  27 

Fish  Loaf,   Simple   (111.)     ._ 26 

Fowl,  Boiled  or  Steamed,  with  Poulette 

Sauce    (111.)      141 

Fowl,    Guinea,     Roasted,    with    Bread 

Sauce      188 

Fritter  Batter 140 

Fritters,  Lenten      385 

Frosting,  Confectioner's  and  Boiled    .  430 

Fudge,  Maple 241 

Gnocchi  a  la  Romain   (111.)     ......  28 

Gnocchis,  Italienne   (111.) 140 

Grape-fruit  Cocktail      282 

Grape-fruit,   Plain      282 

Grape-fruit  with  Powdered  Sugar    .    .  282 

Grape-fruit  with  White  Grapes     .    .    .  330 

Halibut,  Fillets  of,  Florentine  Style    .  283 

Halibut,  Fritter  Batter  for 474 

Halibut,    Julienne    of,     Figaro     Sauce 

(111.) 474 

Ice  Cream  Sundae 192 

Ice    Cream,    Vanilla,    Chocolate    Sauce 

(111.)        34 

Jelly,  Aspic 332, 476 

Jelly,   Sweet-Pickle 235 

Kohlrabi  au  Gratin   (111.) 139 

Kuchen,  Kugelhopf   (111.) 89 

Lady   Fingers       145 

Lamb,  Boned  Leg  of  Roasted  (111.)     .  138 

Lamb,  Roast  Leg  of,   IMarine     ....  481 


COMPLETE  INDEX 


Page 

Lamb,  Roasted  Leg  of,  Franconia  (111.)  138 

Macaroni  a  la  Reine 32 

Macaroni  au  Gratin,  Creamed    ....  32 

Macaroni,    Savory       32 

Marguerites 144 

Marinade  for  Lamb,  Game,  etc.    .    .    .  481 

Marshmallows,  Glace   (111.) 240 

Mayonnaise,  Latest  Method  (111.)     .    .  382 

Meat,  Cold,  with  Vegetable  Salad  (111.)  85 

Meringues,  Almond,  Lady  Finger  (111.)  335 

Meringues,  with  Whipped  Cream  (111.)  240 

Muffins,  Cranberry   (111.) 286 

Muffins,  White  Cornmeal 145 

Mush,  Banana      288 

Mushrooms,  Algonquin   Style     ....  433 

Omelet,  Rice,  Cheese  Sauce 380 

Oysters,   Escaloped 83 

Parfait,   Fig    (111.) 430 

Parfait,  Grape  Juice    (111.) 89 

Parfait,  Nesselrode 145 

Paste,  Puff 191 

Paste,  Turkish  Blood  Orange  (111.)     .  478 

Pastry,   Plain  and   Flaky 86, 87 

Peaches,   Manhattan    Style    (111.)     .    .  429 

Pears,  Beatrice  (111.)     ........  87 

Peppers,  Green,  Fried 143 

Pie,  Chicken,  Biscuit  Crust  (111.)     .    .  187 

Pie,   Fish-and-Oyster 238 

Pie,  Mock  Mince  and  Banana    ....  385 

Pig,  Shoulder  of.  Marinated  (111.)    .    .  234 

Pig,  Shoulder  of.  Roasted  (111.)    ...  234 

Pimentos,  with  Samp  (111.) 236 

Potatoes,  Breakfast 481 

Potatoes,  Mashed,  Nantaise 190 

Potatoes,  Mashed  with   Peas    (111.)     .  480 

Pralines      24 

Pretzels,  German   (III.) 189 

Pudding,  Chestnut     (111.) 191 

Pudding,  Cold  Apricot   (111.)     ....  480 

Pudding,  Cottage  with  Sauce    ....  385 

Pudding,   Delicate      34 

Punch,  Ginger  Ale   (111.) 192 

Rabbit,   Mexican    (111.) 378 

Rice,  Boiled  or  Steamed    (111.)     ...  141 

Risotto 30 

Rissoles,  Chicken-and-Ham   (111.)     .    .  85 

Rocks,  Miss  Bower 145 

Roe,  Creamed  in  Pimentos 433 

Rolls,  Coffee,  from  Brioche  (111.)     .    .  289 

Rolls,  Easter  Breakfast  (111.)     ....  427 

Rolls,  Quick  Yeast 384 

Salad,  Apple-and-Cumquat  (111.)..    .    .  286 

Salad,  Asparagus  in  Pimentos  (111.)     .  382 

Salad,  Asparagus  and  Radish  (111.)     .  383 

Salad,  Cabbage,  for  Roast  Pork    ...  235 

Salad,    Cheese    (111.)      86 

Salad,  Chicken,  Christmas  Style   (111.)  236 
Salad,  Grape-fruit,  White  Grapes  and 

Quince    (111.)        334 

Salad,  Lima-and-Black  Bean  (111.)    .    .  29 

Salad,  Peach   (111.) 89 

Salad,    Persimmon    (111.) 286 

Salad,  Prune-and-Pecan  Nut   (111.)     .  428 

Salad,   Komaine,   with    Dressing    (111.)  142 

Salad  of  Asparagus  Mousse  (111.)    .    .  384 

Salmon,    Hot,    Canned    (111.)      ....  186 

Salmon  Mousseline,  with  Sauce    (111.)  426 


Page 

Sandwich,    Cream    Cheese-and-Ginger.  288 

Sandwich,    Hot    Chicken,    Indienne  .    .  285 

Sardines,    Deviled,      473 

Sauce,  Blushing    Apples,    with    Orange  289 

Sauce,  Brown    Tomato 234 

Sauce,  Chaudfroid      332,  476 

Sauce,  Fish,    Bechamel    and    Holland- 

aise       330 

Sauce,  Hollandaise         433 

Sauce,  Mint       481 

Sauce,  Vinaigrette       85- 

Sausage  with   Pineapple  Fritters    (111.)  8S 

Shad,    Planked,    Supreme    (111.)     ...  432 

Sherbet,   Dried   Apricot 480- 

Sherbet,   Grape  Juice 89 

Shortcake,   Asparagus    (111.)       ....  31 

Souffle,    Spinach       ....'.  IBS 

Soup,  Bisque  of  Clams  and  Green  Peas  81 

Soup,  Black    Bean      26' 

Soup,  Chestnut 185' 

Soup,  Christmas      234 

Soup,  Clam   Broth,    Chantilly     ....  81 

Soup,  Cream  of  Chestnut 186 

Soup,  Cream  of   Clam 185 

Soup,  Cream   of   Spinach 377 

Soup,  Cream  of   String  Bean    ....  25 

Soup,  Economical   Rice 142 

Soup,  Emergency         25 

Soup,  Lima  Bean 137 

Soup,  Nivernaise 283 

Soup,  Pumpkin 283 

Soup,  Puree    of    Tomato,    Julienne  .    .  82 

Soup,  Tomato      425 

Soup,  Tomato    Bisque 82 

Soup,  Tomato   with    Barley 377 

Squash,  Summer,  Fried  (111.)     ....  139 

Steak,, Hamburg   (new  recipe)  ....  432 

Steak,   Swiss    (111.) 284 

Stew,   Italian 143 

Strawberries,    Early    June    Style  ...  33 
Strawberry    Tart    (111.)    with    English 

Cream      33 

Strawberry-and-Pineapple,    Fancy  (111.)  33 

Succotash       33 

Succotash,   Kornlet 231 

Svllabub,    Grape    Juice 241 

Tarts,   Cranberry    (111.) 190 

Timbale,  Halibut,  with  Peas   (111.)  .    .  330 

Timbales,    Egg   with    Asparagus    (111.)  2S 

Toast,    Spanish 140 

Tomatoes,   Baked,   Luncheon   Style  .    .  433 

Tomatoes,   Fried,   with   Cheese  ....  142 

Tomatoes,    Stewed      241 

Turnips,    Creamed       334 

Veal,   Galantine   of    (111.) 330 

Wafers,  Honey 385 

Wafers,    Oat-flake       288' 

W^atermelon  Cones    (111.) 89 

Wreaths,    Christmas     (111.)      239 


Queries  and  Answers:     . 

Angel  Food,  Directors  for  Baking  .    .  496 

Apples,    Manhattan    Style 400 

Banana,  Baked,  Sultana  Sauce  ....  447 

Beef,    Braised    Rump    of 495 

Blitz  Kuchen 109 

Bread.    Baked    Brown       55 


COMPLETE  INDEX 


Page 

Bread,  Bran      350 

Bread,  Cause  of  Bursting  in  Oven  .    .  400 

Bread,  Whole  Wheat 448 

Brownies,    Chocolate 496 

Buns     .^ 206 

Buns,    Squash       207 

Cake,  Devil's  Food 54 

Cake,   Fig  Layer,   with   Filling  ....  255 

Cake,  Marshmallow,    with    Icing  .    .    .  352 

Cake,  Moist    Chocolate 54 

Cake,  Soft,    White   Layer 399 

Cake,  Sponge   for  Jelly   Roll     ....  Ill 

Cakes,  Tea 256 

Candy.    Taflfy        399 

Chops,  Lamb   en    Casserole 350 

Chops,  Lamb,    Maintenon    Style    .    .    .  159 

Chops,  Mushroom  and  Risotto  for  .    .  159 

Chops,  Mutton,   Luncheon    Style  .    .    .  351 

Chowder,  Clam 160 

Cocktail,    Oyster     206 

Coffee,  After  Dinner 496 

Consomme,  with  Flagolet 158 

Cream,  Chocolate        208 

Cream,  Mocha      208 

Crullers,  Toughness  of 53 

Cumquats,    Preserved 304 

Currants,    Bar-le-Duc 112 

ligg  Timbales,   Bread   Sauce 447 

Fggs,   Benedict Ill 

Figs,  Sliced  in  Wine  Jelly 303 

Fig  Whip      304 

Fish  Dinner,  Menu  for,  etc 54 

Flour,  Use  of  Pastry 448 

Food   for  30  People 495 

Frostings,   Regarding   Cake 256 

Fruit,  Macedoine  of  Winter 303 

Fruits  and   Punches,   Serving  of  .    .    .  207 

Gingerbread,    Rochester       56 

Grape  Juice,   Recipe   for 160 

Gravy,  Pan,  for  Roast  Beef 207 

Grease    Spots,    Removal    of 352 

Halibut    Steaks   with    Oysters    ....  446 

Ice    Cream,    Dark    Chocolate 109 

Ice    Cream,    Strawberry 56 

Icing,    Almond 256 

Jelly,    Mint   and   Mint-Apple  .    .    .    .    .  55 


Page 

Jelly,   Mint,   Recipe   for 159 

Jelly,   Tomato,   Aspic 110 

Lemon    Filling 158 

Mince  Meat      208 

Muffins,  Plain      255 

Mushrooms,  Preparation  of,  for  Broil- 
ing      495 

Oil,  Value  of.  Cooked 160 

Onions,  Spanish,  Stuffed  with  Nuts  352 

Onions,   Stuffed  with  Nuts 304 

Oyster  a  la   Poulette 446 

Pastry,  Lard  or  Butter 158 

Pickles,    Watermelon    Rind 159 

Pie,   Cream  Fig      495 

Pie,  Pumpkin       255 

Pie,  Softening  of  Crust  of  Custard  256 

Pie,  Squirrel,  with   Flaky   Pastry     .    .  208 

Pigs  in  Blankets 56 

Potatoes    a    la    Maitre    d'Hotel     ...  447 

Potatoes,  Duchesse 160 

Powder,  Canning 208 

Pudding,  Baked  Tapioca,  with  Peaches  351 

Pudding,  Serving  Green  Corn    ....  160 

Pudding,  Steamed    Fig 304 

Puddings,     Steamed     Orange,     Prune, 

Raisin,  etc 55 

Punch,  Lemon      207 

Punch,  Roman 206 

Rice,  Green  Color  in 494 

Rolls,  Rasped 56 

Rusks,    Slightly    Sweetened 208 

Salad,  Alligator  Pear 303 

Salad,  Fig-and-Orange      304 

Salad,  Orange  and  Banana 399 

Salad,  Prune-and-Pecan    Nut     ....  448 

Sandwiches,  Aviation,  Club  Style     .    .  350 

Scum,  Composition  of,  on  Jelly    .    .    .  494 

Snaps,   Brandy 351 

Soup,    Cream   of    Corn     . Ill 

Sundae,  Ice  Cream,  Fruit 207 

Sweet  Pickles,  To  Make  Less  Acid    .  255 

Time  Table  for  Cooking 110 

Tomato  Rabbit 448 

Tomatoes  and  Potatoes  at  Same  Meal  494 

Tongues,  How  to  Pickle 399 

Torte,  Rve  Bread 351 


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The  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine,  Boston,  Mass. 


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THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


TKe  Best  o/ All  Shortening 

is  Real  Leaf  Lard 


Tea  Biscuits— Sift  one  quart  of  flour  with  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  three  rounding  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking  powder.  Into  this  ruboiielargeteaspoonful  of 
Armour's  "Simon  Pure"  LeafLard.  Add  just  enough 
sweet  milk  to  make  a  dough  easUy  handled  Roll  out 
and  bake  for  about  fifteen  minutes  in  very  hot  oven. 


INew  Eoiiland  Dourfhnuts— Scant  cup  granu- 
lated suear,  rounding  tablespoonful  "Simon  Pure" 
Leaf  Lard,  cupful  sweet  milk,  two  eggs,  one-founh 
teaspoon  salt,  one-fourth  teaspoon  nutmeg,  four  cup- 
f'lls  flour,  four  rounding  teaspoonfuls  baking  powder. 
Roll  out  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick,  cut  and  fry  in 
Armour's  "  Simon  Pure"  Leaf  Lard, 


Old-Fasbloned  Su({ar  Cookies— One  cupful 
of  Armour's  "  Simon  Pure"  Leaf  La»d,  three  cupfuls 
sugar,  three  eggs,  one  cupful  buttermilk,  one  level  tea- 
spoonfui*  da,  one-half  nutmeg  grated,  pinch  of  salt, 
two  cupfuls  pastry  flour.  Add  enough  flour  to  make  a 
dough  easily  handled.  Cut  out  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
thick  ;  cover  with  granulated  sugar  and  bake  a  deli- 
cate brown. 


Pie  Paste — One  level  cup  of  pastry  flour,  one-hal 
cup  of  Armour's  ">iinon  Pure"  Leaf  Lard,  rne-half 
teaspoon  salt  one-fourth  cup  cold  water.  Mix  salt  and 
flour  thoroughly,  chop  in  the  lard,  add  water.  Use  as 
little  flour  as  possible  when  rolling  out.  This  makes 
a  light,  crisp,  flaky  and  delicious  pie  crust. 


It  is  the  shortening  that  made  old-time  cooks 
famous  for  their  wonderful  hot  breads,  flaky  pastry, 
light  and  feathery  cakes — all  digestible  as  well  as 
delicious. 

These  old-fashioned  cooks  rendered  their  own 
lard — made  it  in  open  kettles  just  as  "Simon  Pure" 
Leaf  Lard  is  made  today. 

Armour's  "Simon  Pure"  Leaf  Lard  is  the  fine, 
pure,  sweet,  delicate  lard  our  grandmothers  had  to 
make  for  themselves,  but  even  better  because  of 
our  wonderful  facilities,  materials  and  long  years 
of  experience. 

** Simon  Pure'* 

LEAF  LARD 

is  the  very  cream  of  the  land — better  than  butter 
when  butter  is  called  for  because  it  doesn't  cook 
so  dry. 

And  while  it  costs  a  trifle  more  than  ordinary 
lard  you  need  only  use  two-thirds  as  much. 

There  is  just  one  way  for  you  to  get  this  finest 
of  all  lard.  Be  sure  the  label  reads  Armour's 
"Simon  Pure"  Leaf  Lard. 

Save  this  advertisement  and  try  some  of  these 
recipes.  They  will  give  you  wonderfully  good 
results.  Then  write  to  us  for  "  Pastry  Wrinkles," 
from  which  they  are  taken.  We  send  it  free. 
Address 


ARMOUR  aWdCOMPANY 


Dept.  G  146 


Chicago 


Buy    Advertised    Goods  —  do    not    accept    substitutes 
'  viiin 


/ 


The  Rose,  the  Poppy  and  the  Lily 


By  Helen   Coale   Crew 

Flower  of  dawn  and  day's  bright  birth! 
Morning  dew  with  soft  fire  ghstens 
GemHke  on  the  breast  of  earth. 
And  the  lark,  with  glad  unrest, 
Sings,  and  soars  from  out  his  nest: 
Heaven  itself  leans  down  and  listens! 

Flower  of  noon  and  silence  green! 

Sunlight  through  warm  shadows  gleaming 

Fills  the  air  with  amber  sheen. 

In  still  pools  are  mirrored  fair 

Butterflies  afloat  in  air. 

Woods  and  fields  lie  softly  dreaming! 

Flower  of  twilight,  mystic,  white! 
Golden  gleam  at  heart  of  thee 
With  faint  fragrance  fills  the  night. 
Starlight  dawns  in  purple  deeps, 
And  the  moon,  uprising,  steeps 
All  the  world  in  reverie. 


M,^^  The 


-X 


^zrvL-f-l 


Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


Vol.  XV 


JUXE-JULY,  19  lo 
O 

Garden   Seats 

By  Marv  H.   Xorthend 


Xo.  1 


THE  charm  of  a  garden  lies  not  so 
much  in  its  floral  equipment  as 
in  the  selection  and  arrangement 
of  its  accessories.  Today  ornaments 
are  recognized  as  essential  to  the  pro- 
per display  of  flowers  and  shrubs,  and 
a  garden  that  lacks  these  necessary 
adjuncts  is  much  as  a  house  devoid  of 
artistic  embellishments. 

In  America  a  proper  appreciation  of 
the  value  of  garden  furnishings  has 
never  been  as  evident  as  in  foreign 
countries,  and,  in  fact,  it  is  only  in 
recent  years  that  ornaments  have  been 
employed  in  gardens  to  any  great  ex- 
tent. The  ancient  Greeks  and  Romans 
were  cognizant  of  their  worth,  as  is 
evident  from  the  manner  in  which  they 
embellished  their  floral  spaces  with 
bridges,  fountains,  statues,  seats,  urns, 
etc.,  and  the  French,  too,  were  even 
appreciative  of  their  decorative  quali- 
ties, as  is  attested  by  the  adornment  of 
the  famous  gardens  of  Versailles  and 
the  Tuilleries.  which,  unfortunately, 
were  shorn  of  their  lovely  accessories 
at  the  time  the  English  type  of  garden 
came  in  voo:ue. 


Many  of  the  more  modem  flower  plots 
also  showed,  in  their  arrangement,  a 
proper  regard  for  these  essentials,  but 
of  late  years  scant  heed  has  been  given 
garden  furnishings,  and,  in  conse- 
quence, much  of  the  old-time  charm 
has  been  lost. 

This  is  particularly  true  of  the  Ameri- 
can type  of  garden,  and,  until  the  last 
few  years,  when  the  possibilities  for 
enjoyment  to  be  derived  from  flower 
plots,  equipped  with  attractive  acces- 
sories, begun  to  be  realized,  numerous 
splendid  opportunities  for  develop- 
ment were  neglected.  Probably  the 
adoption  of  the  formal  Itahan  type 
of  garden  had  much  to  do  with  the 
bringing  about  of  this  happy  change, 
but,  at  all  events,  garden  furnishings 
'are  today  extensively  employed,  and 
their  use  tends  to  increase  the  attract- 
iveness of  the  flower  plot,  no  matter 
how  small  or  extensive  it  may  be. 

Of  all  garden  furnishings,  seats  are, 
perhaps,  the  most  important.  They 
not  only  afford  a  resting  place  for  tired 
bodies,  but  they  also  frequently  pos- 
sess artistic  qualities  quite  distinct  from 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


A  Stoxe  Seat  at  Pride's  Crossing 

their  importance  in  marking  axes,  end- 
ing walks,  and  relieving  barren  spaces, 
that  are  most  valuable. 

The  position  the  seat  occupies  in  the 
garden  is  quite  as  important  as  the 
seat  itself,  and  while,  of  course,  there 
is  much  less  chance  of  wrong  placing  in 
a  garden  where  positions  are  fixed  b}^ 
formality  than  in  a  picturesque  scheme 
of  unmarked  distinctiveness  of  type, 
where  they  must  be  so  placed  as  to  give 
the  impression  of  inevitableness,  still 
care  must  be  exercised  in  the  placing, 
in  either  case. 

Frequently  the  position  of  a  seat  is 
determined  by  the  view  which  one  may 
obtain  while  resting  upon  it,  and  while 
in  some  cases  this  plan  works  out  to 
good  advantage,  provided  the  seat  hap- 
pens to  fit  in  as  a  part  of  a  pleasing  com- 
position, still,  as  a  rule,  it  should  have  a 
more  obvious  justification  than  mere 
view  to  warrant  its  placement. 

Of  all  materials  for  garden  seats, 
stone  undoubtedly  is  the  best,  for  not 
only  is  it  durable,  but  the  best  qualities 
permit  of  carving,  and  thus  it  can  be 
made  as  decorative  as  desired.  Also, 
there  is  a  worthiness  about  stone  which 


cast  cement  cannot  approach,  and  to 
many  minds  a  seat  of  rough  stone,  that 
the  ax  has  never  touched,  is  eminently 
more  desirable  than  one  of  cement, 
evenly  finished. 

Limestones  and  marbles  are  com- 
monly used  for  seats,  but  there  are 
several  other  stones  of  more  pleasing 
color  and  texture  w^hich  could  be  used 
with  better  effect.  The  pink  granites 
look  well,  and  the  black,  red,  and  green 
slates  are  of  pleasing  qualities,  the  red 
being  particularly  effective  when 
streaked  with  another  color.  The 
Quincy  granites  should  never  be  em- 
ployed, for  their  texture  is  cold  looking 
and  uninteresting,  and  the  weather, 
instead  of  softening  their  colors,  seems 
to  render  them  more  dismal. 

Our  first  and  second  illustrations  are 
examples  of  the  better  quality  of  stone, 
finely  carved.  Both  are  placed  be- 
side tree  trunks,  and  both  pleasantly 
relieve  the  monotony  of  surrounding 
green.  The  second,  however,  is  the 
more  pleasing  of  the  two,  for  its  simple 
slab  top,  supported  by  carved  standards, 
is  much  more  in  keeping  with  the  seat 
idea  than  the  elaborately  finished  back 
and  side  pieces  of  the  first  named,  which 
savors  too  much  of  the  chair  form, 
which  is  rarely  attractive  in  stone. 

A  seat  of  this  type,  however,  to  be 
entirely  comfortable,  should  be  placed 
against  a  wall  to  afford  some  support 
to  one's  back. 


Another  Stone  Seat 


GARDEN  SEATS 


^ 

^^^M 

•_i*^-     «   li^ii^^ 

K'-i 

Ih 

H-'^i^^H 

H 

^^(S^S^SSk^  t^ 

^kI  ii^S?^*-'^^^ 

^ 

In  Mrs.  Phillips'  Garden,  North  Beverly 


Of  course,  where,  as  in  the  case  illus- 
trated, it  is  only  one  of  several  seats 
in  the  floral  space,  it  is  not  necessary  to 
so  place  it,  but  if,  as  it  frequently  hap- 
pens, it  marks  the  only  resting  spot  in 
the  garden,  then  it  should  be  arranged 
to  provide  the  greatest  comfort  possible, 
and  surely  a  seat  on  which  one  cannot 
lounge  is  not  conducive  to  enjoyment 
for  more  than  a  few  moments  at  a 
time. 

There  is  another  fault  about  most 
garden  seats  of  stone,  and  that  is  that 
they  are  built  too  high.  Thirteen 
inches  is  usually  high  enough  for  most 
people,  and  if  additional  height  is  re- 
quired, the  bench  can  be  placed  on  a 
stone  platform,  which  is  not  only  pleas- 
anter  for  one's  feet  than  grass  or  gravel, 
but  also  adds  considerable  to  the  archi- 
tectural effect.  In  summer  the  stone 
seat  needs  cushions,  if  it  is  used  to  any 
great  extent,  and  in  winter  it  should  be 
covered  with  narrow  slats  arranged 
close  together. 

There  are  two  points  to  remember 
in  the  employment  of  seats  of  carved 
stone;  first,  that  they  must  not  be  too 
elaborate  to  harmonize  with  the  gar- 
dens which  they  are  meant  to  grace,  and 
second,  that  they  must  conform  with 
the  other  ornaments  used.  A  seat  of 
elaborate  finish  used  in  conjunction 
with  a  fountain,  sun-dial  or  other  ac- 


cessory of  simple  design,  is  ridiculous, 
and  it  is  better  to  omit  it  than  to  have 
it  cause  such  incongruity. 

If  stone  be  too  expensive,  use  wood, 
but  let  it  be  used  as  wood,  and  not  as 
stone.  When  a  pretty  rustic  effect  is 
desired,  cedar  and  locust,  with  the  bark 


i«-^ 


\   \ 


i  f:^ 


Garden  of  Ferns 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Wooden  Garden  Seats 


left  on,  can  be  used  to  good  advantage, 
and  cypress  also  makes  a  satisfactory 
garden  seat  and,  if  painted  and  well 
cared  for  each  season,  will  do  service 
for  a  number  of  years.  Sometimes  a 
good  result  of  a  stone  type  is  obtained 
in  wood,  as  is  shown  in  the  illustration. 
Wooden  seats  with  roofs  are  now 
made  to  some  extent  in  this  country, 
and  most  attractive  they  are  when  well 
placed  against  a  background  of  trees  or 
shrubbery.     The    roof   affords    protec- 


tion from  the  summer  sun,  and  in  the 
winter  acts  as  a  windbreak,  and  then. 
too,  it  assures  freedom  from  the  insects 
which  sometimes  drop  from  the  leafy 
tangle  of  an  arbor. 

Garden  seats  in  their  type  and  ar- 
rangement present  almost  limitless 
possibilities,  and  there  is  no  garden 
plot,  however  small,  which  does  not 
include  some  nook  that  can  be  im- 
proved by  the  placement  of  a  seat  of 
simple  design. 


June 

Bv  Ruth  Raymond 


Let  others  laud  the  winter's  snows. 

Let  others  tell  of  spring's  delight. 

But  give  to  me  June's  fragrant  rose 

That  in  the  early  morning  blows 

All  fresh  and  pure  with  dewdrops  bright. 


Let  others  praise  the  autumn's  brown 
And  gold  of  sheaves  that  grace  the  year, 
But  give  to  me  June's  crimson  crown 
Of  cherries  sweet  that  tumble  down, 
Lo  at  mv  feet,  a  wealth  of  cheer. 


O  flowery  June!      O  fruitful  June! 
The  bride's  delight,  the  maiden's  choice, 
AVhen  earth  and  sea  and  sky  atune 
Bring  to  each  heart  some  longed-for  boon, 
While  weary  ones  again  rejoice. 


SOME  DESSERTS  FOR  JUNE 


Strawberry  Tarts     (  See  page  33  ) 


Strawberry  axd  Pineapple  Fa: 


.^ 

— "^ 

^^■ki.  '^v^'-ifa 

^'^^^^^^^^^^^F 

1         "**" 

Strawberries  ix  Orange  Shell  Strawberries  ix  Loxg-Stemmed  Glass 


Psychology  of  Clothes 

Discussed  by   iho  Young  Pliilosophors 

B\-  jc^sephine  Page  Wright 


I 


"T  would  take  a  gallon  oi  sherbet 
and  an  eleetrie  fan  to  overcome 
the  effect  of  that  costume." 
gasped  the  Scientist. 

The  Young  Philosphers  ran  to  the 
window  to  see  what  had  provoked  the 
Scientist  to  an  inaccurate  statement 
of  a  proposition.  On  the  opposite  side 
of  the  street  strutted  a  young  woman, 
dressed  in  red  from  the  tip  of  her  suede 
sHpper  to  the  tulle  of  her  lar^e  picture 
hat. 

"Some  one  has  told  her  red  is  be- 
coming to  her,  and  now  she  wears  it, 
regardless  of  time  or  circumstance," 
commented  the  Cynic.  "A  gown  like 
that,  however,  on  an  August  day  is 
positively  an  act  of  cruelty  to  specta- 
tors." 

"I  wonder,"  mused  the  Sage,  "if 
any  of  us  fully  realize  the  effect  upon 
others  of  the  garments  we  wear." 

"We  had  a  striking  example  of  it 
in  our  home  last  winter,"  conhnned 
the  Epicurean.  "My  sister  and  I  were 
made  to  wear  colored  woolen  dresses 
during  winter,  from  the  time  we  could 
tirst  walk.  Nevertheless  avc  have 
always  liked  dainty  garments,  and 
when  my  sister's  tirst  baby  came, 
eighteen  months  ago.  we  determined 
to  keep  it  in  white  until  it  was  old 
enough  to  go  to  school.  One  cold  day 
my  father  found  the  baby  toddling 
about  the  house  in  a  white  dimity 
dress.  He  at  once  took  my  sister  to 
task  for  clothing  the  child  improperly. 
We  explained  to  him  that  a  white 
woolen  slip  beneath  the  outer  garment 
kept  the  child  from  feeling  cold.  '  But 
it  doesn't  keep  me  from  feeling  cold 
when  I  see  her!'  he  stormed.  And  it 
didn't.  He  insists  that  he  suffered 
acutely  from  the  cold  every  time  he 
saw  the  little  one  in  its  hlm\-  frock." 


"I  asked  a  school-teacher  once," 
said  the  Sage,  "whether  the  garments 
her  pupils  wore  in  any  way  affected 
their  scholarship.  She  replied  ^^■ithout 
hesitation  that  they  did  and  that, 
moreover,  the  garments  which  she 
wore  aff'ected  their  scholarship.  She 
explained  that  she  had  one  particularly 
becoming  and  attractive  go^^^l,  which 
she  wore  during  tests  or  examinations. 
This  change  of  costume  not  only  the 
more  observing  in  the  class  seemed  to 
notice,  but  even  the  dullest  felt  it  and 
profited  by  it.  This  same  teacher  cited 
the  case  of  a  young  girl  who  had 
entered  a  class  half  clad,  disheveled 
and  dirty.  Her  books  were  soiled, 
secondhand  ones  which  she  had  begged 
from  others.  She  was  sullen  and 
showed  little  interest  in  her  studies 
or  her  classmates.  Suddenly  orphaned, 
this  child  Avas  adopted  by  a  benevolent 
organization,  Avhich  purchased  new 
books  for  her  and  clothed  her  in  gar- 
ments, not  only  new  and  comfortable, 
but  attractive  and  becoming.  With 
the  new  clothing  she  donned  came  a 
new  interest  in  life,  a  new  self-respect, 
and  she  is  rapidly  becoming  oiie  of  the 
most  promising  pupils  in  her  grade. 
^Mothers  should  study  this  subject  of 
the  psychology  of  clothes." 

"Mothers  and  ^A-ives,"  added  the 
Cynic.  "  Xot  every  wife  realizes  that 
the  Avork  of  the  day  for  her  husband  is 
often  made  easier  or  marred  by  the 
gown  in  which  she  greets  him  at  his 
breakfast  table." 

"That  is  true."  agi'ced  the  Sage. 
"A  man  sometimes  makes  the  mistake 
of  telling  his  wife  that  she  looks  well 
in  a  boudoir  jacket.  Thereupon  she 
forms  the  habit  of  wearing  one  to  the 
breakfast  table.  And  that  is  all  right 
during  the  honeymoon,  perhaps.     But 


PSYCHOLOGY  OF  CLOTHES 


9 


when  a  man  sits  down  to  a  belated 
breakfast,  with  school  children  clamor- 
ing for  attention,  and  home  duties 
fairly  shrieking  from  nursery  and 
kitchen,  he  feels  vaguely,  although  he 
does  not  analyze  the  emotion,  that 
there  is  something  inadequate  about 
the  appearance  of  the  woman  who 
faces  him,  my  lady  of  the  dressing 
sacque." 

"But  a  man  would  not  wish  his  wife 
to  dress  like  a  nursery  maid,"  pro- 
tested the  Epicurean. 

"Why  not?"  demanded  the  Sage. 
"Why  not,  at  least,  while  she  is  per- 
forming the  duties  of  one?  W^hat 
could  be  more  suitable,  serviceable  or 
becoming  than  a  plain  cotton  house- 
gown  and  spotless  white  apron?  Our 
educated  helpers  and  trained  nurses 
have  changed  this  same  costume  from 
a  badge  of  servitude  to  an  insignia  of 
rank.  Women  are  prone  to  believe 
that  man  has  no  intuition,  that  he  is 
not  susceptible  to  psychical  influence. 
She  has  believed  it  many  times  to  her 
own  undoing.  A  man  is  annoyed,  if 
he  finds  his  wife  working  about  the 
kitchen  in  a  discarded  dinner  dress; 
he  is  Ukewise  annoyed,  if  she  comes  to 
his  dinner  table  looking  like  a  servant. 
Nevertheless  he  may  be  and  probably 
is  quite  ignorant  of  the  cause  of  his 
annoyance." 

"That  is  because  man  for  generations 
has  been  the  business  head  and  the 
warrior  of  the  family,"  expounded  the 
Scientist.  "He  understands  the  methods 
and  the  necessities  of  proper  equip- 
ment. He  would  not  go  shooting  for 
duck  with  an  elephant  gun." 

"At  the  same  time  woman  is  the 
more    punctilious    about    the    conven- 


tionalities   of    dress,"    contended    the 
Epicurean. 

"But  conventionalities  are  many 
times  the  creatures  of  her  own  caprice," 
said  the  Cynic,  "and  are  not  often 
brought  into  being  by  the  laws  of 
proper  equipment.  Where  convention- 
alities fail  to  coincide  with  these  laws, 
man  rebels  and  often,  too  often  woman 
submits." 

"Here  is  a  case  in  point,"  laughed 
the  Sage.  "I  know  a  young  matron 
who  is  extremely  fastidious  about  the 
proprieties  of  dress.  She  is  never  seen 
at  a  formal  dinner  or  at  the  opera  save 
in  evening  gown.  Her  street  costumes 
are  faultless.  But  I  have  seen  her 
working  about  her  kitchen  in  a  silk 
kimona  and  torn  silk  skirt.  She  felt, 
moreover,  that  she  was  maintaining 
the  dignity  of  her  position." 

"  I  suppose  none  of  you  would  believe 
me,  if  I  told  you  of  the  wonderful 
effect  upon  the  health  which  different 
garments  may  have,"  timidly  ventured 
the  Mental  Healer. 

"Whether  we  accept  your  philosophy 
as  a  whole  or  not,"  politely  returned 
the  Cynic,  "we  are  all  willing  to  con- 
cede that  a  woman  feels  no  better  than 
she  looks.  Personally  I  have  cured 
more  than  a  headache  with  a  bath 
and  a  complete  change  of  garment." 

"And,  of  course,"  admitted  the 
Scientist,  "we  are  beginning  to  learn 
the  effect  which  colors  have  upon  the 
mind  and  the  emotions  of  man.  We 
know  that  red  — " 

"But  that  is  the  X,  Y,  Z  of  the 
subject.  Start  our  wives  and  mothers 
at  the  A,  B,  C  of  it  and  they  make 
their  own  progress,"  concluded  the 
Sage. 


-To  Mother's  Apron 


Here's  to  mother's  apron, 

The  gingham  one,  with  strings  ; 
Here's  to  all  the  household  joy 

The  wearing  of  it  brings. 


Here's  to  all  that  apron  does 

With  little  mother  in  it! 
I  cannot  say  enough  in  praise, 

And  so  I  won't  begin  it. 

From  "The  Valley  Farmer.' 


How  Much  Shall  We  Spend  For  Food? 


By  May  Ellis  Nichols 


THE  question  "How  Little  Can  We 
Spend  for  Food?"  has  been  con- 
sidered over  and  over  again,  and 
especially  during  the  time  of  financial 
stress  has  been  of  the  greatest  interest 
to  the  housewife.  Undoubtedly  the 
cost  of  food  is  the  item  of  household  ex- 
pense that  varies  most  in  different  fami- 
lies, and  consequently  the  item  that  can 
be  modified  most  easily,  hence  the  in- 
terest in  the  question  of  how  little  is 
needed  to  run  a  satisfactory  table. 
But  the  question,"  How  Much  Shall  We 
Spend  for  Food? "  is  quite  different.  It 
is  an  ethical  rather  than  an  economic 
question,  and  as  such  is  worthy  our 
careful  consideration. 

Granting  absolute  freedom  in  the  use 
of  money,,  how  is  one  to  decide,  not 
how  small  an  amount  she  can  get  along 
with,  but  how  much  she  will  be  justified 
in  spending  upon  food  for  her  famil}'. 
Or  is  it  necessary  for  her  to  decide  at  all  ? 
Shall  she  buy  the  food  that  she  needs 
and  wishes  without  regard  to  cost? 
That  is  the  method  often  employed. 
Only  last  week  a  friend  informed  me 
—  in  a  way  that  made  me  feel  that  she 
considered  figuring  on  the  cost  of  food 
penurious  —  that  she  had  never  at- 
tempted to  run  her  table  on  a  certain 
amount.  She  had  always  bought  the 
things  that  she  knew  the  family  liked 
without  regard  to  cost. 

' '  I  never  know  how  much  my  table 
bills  are  going  to  be  till  the}^  come  in," 
she  concluded. 

"Yes,"  I  answered,  "but  do  you  buy 
your  clothes  in  the  same  way?  Did 
you  know"  how  much  you  were  to  pay 
for  your  beautiful  new  cloak  before  it 
came  home?" 

The  reply  was  prompt.  "How  ri- 
diculous! Of  course  I  did.  I  never 
buy  a  garment  without  knowing  its 
price.     If  I  cannot  afford  a  hundred- 


dollar  coat,  I  get  one  for  fifty  dollars, 
or  thirty-five,  or  for  twenty-five.  But 
food  is  different.     We  must  eat." 

True,  we  must  eat,  but  health  and 
even  happiness  do  not  depend  on 
our  eating  squabs  and  sweetbreads, 
much  less  strawberries  in  January. 
Spring  chicken  may  be  a  common  arti- 
cle of  food  in  one  family  and  an  inex- 
cusable luxury  in  another,  while  even 
chops  and  beefsteak  may  be  extrava- 
gances in  a  third. 

"M}^  family  insist  on  having  grape- 
fruit for  breakfast  every  morning," 
groaned  my  friend  who  is  trying  to  live 
within  her  income.  Grape-fruit  is  de- 
licious and  w^holesome,  so  if  a  family 
can  afford  it  and  want  it,  it  should  be 
on  their  table  every  morning,  but 
oranges  are  nearly  as  good,  baked 
apples  just  as  wholesome,  and  prunes 
are  the  most  digestible  of  fruits,  as  wit- 
nessed by  the  fact  that  they  are  almost 
the  first  to  be  given  babies. 

I  once  confided  to  m}^  grocer's  wife, 
who  w^as  assisting  her  husband  on  Satur- 
day morning,  that  I  could  not  aft'ord  a 
certain  tempting  titbit,  for  if  I  did,  I 
should  go  over  my  table  allowance. 
She  looked  interested  and,  at  last,  hesi- 
tatingly asked  if  I  minded  telHng  her 
how  much  my  allowance  was.  We  each 
catered,  as  it  happened,  for  the  same 
number  —  five.  I  named  the  amount, 
which  while  not  large  was  ample  to  pro- 
vide a  table  that  seemed  to  please  and 
satisfy  my  own  family.  Her  curiosity 
turned  to  surprise.  "Why,"  she  said, 
"rny  own  table  never  costs  less  than 
thirty-six  dollars  a  week,  and,  of  course, 
all  the  fruit,  vegetables  and  dry  gro- 
ceries are  bought  at  wholesale." 

The  grocer  lived  over  his  store;  he 
worked  early  and  late  to  provide  an  in- 
come for  his  family;  his  eldest  daughter 
kept  his  books;  his  wife  did  the  house- 


10 


EXPERTS 


11 


work  and  "helped  out"  in  the  store 
Saturday  mornings;  and  yet  they 
spent  more  than  .seven  dollars  per  person 
for  food  each  week.  Any  woman  who 
has  made  a  little  study  of  food  values 
and  the  cost  of  food  knows  that  for  a 
family  so  situated  that  amount  is  folly, 
almost  sin.  But  what  of  the  wife  of 
a  man  on  a  five  thousand  dollar  salary 
who  spends  the  same  amount?  Is  she 
any  wiser?  In  short,  how  is  one  to 
know  how  much  she  has  a  right  to 
spend  for  food  ? 

To  begin  with,  every  family  should 
have  enough  good  wholesome  food  to 
keep  up  strength  in  the  adult  members 
of  the  family  and  to  furnish  material 
for  the  growth  of  the  children. 

In  addition,  the  food  should  be  varied 
enough  to  make  it  palatable.  That 
much  expenditure  is  a  necessity.  If 
the  family  income  allows,  more  delicate 
but  not  less  nourishing  food  may  be  sub- 
stituted, as  the  finer  cuts  and  varieties 
of  meat,  some  of  the  hothouse  vege- 
tables, more  fruit  and  relishes  of  differ- 
ent sorts.  If  there  is  no  reason  why 
the  housewife  should  limit  the  amount 
she  spends  for  food,  she  will,  of  course, 
make  her  table  as  dainty  as  possible, 
freely  using  the  hothouse  products  and 
imported  delicacies,  which  belong  with 
jewels,  Oriental  rugs  and  Old  Masters. 
But  even  then  the  .wise  woman  will 
know  what  is  a  reasonable  amount  to 
spend  for  the  results  she  expects,  and 
will  keep  within  it.  If  she  does  not 
insist  on  adequate  returns  for  her 
money,  she  will  encourage  waste  in  her 


domestics  and  dishonesty  in  her  trade 
folk. 

The  real  test  of  how  much  one  can 
afford  to  spend  for  food,  then,  is  how 
much  can  be  used  beyond  what  is  ab- 
solutely necessary  without  encroaching 
on  the  funds  that  should  be  used  for 
other  purposes.  "What  is  necessary," 
being  understood  to  mean  the  food  that 
would  be  sufficient  to  keep  up  strength 
and  growth,  in  distinction  from  what 
is  desired,  as  illustrated  by  my  friend's 
grape-fruit.  Exactly  what  this  sum 
shall  be,  every  housewife,  who  ear- 
nestly wishes  to  do  her  duty  by  her 
family,  must  discover  for  herself.  It 
may  be  fifty  per  cent,  it  may  be  twenty- 
five,  it  may  be  only  ten,  but  she  must 
know  how  much  it  is  and  keep  within 
it,  if  she  is  to  make  a  wise  distribution 
of  the  funds  at  her  disposal. 

The  problem  is  really  one  in  simple 
proportion.  What  can  the  family  af- 
ford in  other  things ?  For  example,  my 
grocer's  family  had  a  table  that  should 
have  presupposed  a  house  to  them- 
selves, attractive  furniture,  books  and 
periodicals,  the  young  daughter  in 
school,  instead  of  behind  her  father's- 
desk,  and  some  assistance  in  the  home 
for  the  overworked  mother. 

The  housewife  will  make  no  mistake 
who  takes  care  that  a  nice  proportion 
is  maintained.  If  she  makes  sure  that 
charity,  art,  books,  hospitality,  travel, 
home  decoration,  yes,  and  clothes,  all 
have  due  consideration,  she  will  be 
able  to  decide  how  much  she  can  afford 
to  spend  for  food. 


Experts 

By  Kate  Gannett  Wells 


SOCIAL     research,    social    welfare, 
expert   service  and  the  economic 
woman  are  the  elect  phrases  by 
which  today's  activity  is  differentiated 


from    the    unobtrusive,     far-reaching, 
personal  work  of  thirty  years  ago. 

"Social  research,  forsooth,  it's  just 
inquisitiveness,  I'm  none  of  your  busi- 


12 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


ness!"  exclaimed  indignantly  a  woman, 
who  was  being  subjected  to  a  "ques- 
tionaire"  in  the  interest  of  social  re- 
form. To  whom  the  philianthropist, 
pining  for  something  to  do,  replied, 
*'  Oh,  but  it's  social  welfare  I  am  after." 

"What's  that  ?"  inquired  the  woman, 
"each  of  us  knows  best  what  we  want; 
don't  come  it  over  us  with  fine  words; 
and  as  for  your  expert  service,  it  is 
just  spoiling  shopping  and  house- 
keeping. I  went  into  a  store  run  by 
trained  salesladies  and  asked  for  a  blue 
veil  and  the  girl  told  me,  oh,  so  politely, 
that  I  should  get  brown.  'Blue,'  I 
repeated.  'Brown,'  she  smirked,  as  if 
she  understood  my  wants  better  than 
I  did.  So  as  the  floorwalker  came 
along  to  inquire  into  the  row,  I  told  him 
I  had  asked  for  a  blue  veil  and  all  his 
salesgirl  had  done  was  to  say  I  ought  to 
have  a  brown  one.  Then  the  little 
man  had  the  impudence  to  remark, 
'You're  wearing  brown,  madam.' 
*Do  you  suppose  I  haven't  got  a  blue 
suit,  too?  Have  you  a  blue  veil?'  I 
asked  him,  real  dignified.  The  girl 
showed  me  one  and  I  walked  off  and 
went  home  to  find  the  waitress  wouldn't 
make  the  mayonnaise,  because  I  had 
given  her  Italian  oil  when  she  had  been 
trained  to  use  French  oil,  and  the 
dressmaker  had  cut  my  blue  skirt  the 
way  she  thought  best  instead  of  doing 
what  I  told  her,  and  the  nurse  girl  had 
used  what  she  called  her  judgment  in 
mixing  the  baby's  food  instead  of  doing 
as  I  had  directed.  I'm  tired  to  death 
of  experts  who  never  do  your  way." 

"Ah,  madam,"  remarked  the  phi- 
lanthropist, "you  are  proving  yourself 
to  be  the  economic  woman  by  the  way 
you  see  into  things." 

"Economic  fiddlesticks!"  was  re- 
torted. ' '  Woman  was  bom  economical. 
She  can  do  a  lot  more  than  just  being  an 
expert." 

And  I,  a  bystander,  knew  the  woman 
was  stating  facts  and  the  philanthropist 
seeing  visions.  I,  myself,  had  been  be- 
rated, because  I  had  said  research  was 


poor  atonement  for  lack  of  sympathy; 
that  tabular  statements  were  partial  un- 
truths, and  questionaires  were  mora 
and  intellectual  vivisection;  that  the 
social  welfare  business  usually  carried  a 
salary  for  those  who  worked  at  it;  that 
experts  were  as  futile  as  rules  for  good 
manners,  and  that  the  phrase,  eco- 
nomic woman,  was  an  insult  to  man, 
who  is  fast  losing  his  chivalry  because 
of  it.  Then,  too,  I  had  seen  the  pretty, 
vague  enthusiasms  of  afternoon  teas 
and  knew  it  was  so  tiresome  not  to 
have  enough  to  do,  that  social  service 
had  become  a  real  honest  kind  of  re- 
Hgion  for  this  world,  and  that  expert 
advice  is  unnecessary,  as  everybody,  ex- 
cept one's  self,  knows  best  what  one 
can  do. 

The  trouble  is  we  never  know  we  have 
made  mistakes  until  they  are  made, 
and  that  there  need  not  have  been  so 
much  preventive  work,  if  we  had  been 
different.  Some  of  us  prefer  to  work 
along  with  Jack-of-all-trades'  assistants 
rather  than  with  "exacting  helpers," 
whether  they  are  the  visitors  who  must 
remove  their  rings  before  they  wash 
the  breakfast  dishes  or  the  more  effi- 
cient variety  which  insists  on  special 
brands  of  soap,  flour,  flavors,  etc.,  in 
cookery.  Others  of  us  prefer,  at  least, 
"facultied  assistants,"  even  experts, 
that  we  may  escape  the  worry  of  im- 
perfect details  and  have  time  for  social 
welfare.  And  then  a  few  of  us  today 
are  still  sufficiently  meek  to  rest  con- 
tent with  Wesley's  advice  to  his  wife, 
"Be  content  to  be  a  private  and  in- 
significant person,  known  and  loved 
by  God  and  me." 

Somehow  the  attitude  of  those  who 
try  to  live  up  to  the  significance  of  so- 
cial service  irritates,  because  it  is  in 
such  haste  to  present  its  facts  and  de- 
ductions, instead  of  waiting  till  oc- 
casion arrives.  A  striking  instance  of 
the  love  for  exact  fact  in  its  bearing 
upon  physical  stature,  with  the  quiet 
hoarding  of  such  knowledge  until 
chance  brings  it  forward,  is  given  in 


XEATH  SKIES  OF  JUXE 


13 


Professor  Shaler's  autobiography.  At 
a  certain  dinner,  a  Mr.  Coolidge  was 
challenged  regarding  his  statement  of 
the  average  height  of  a  Chinaman. 
"I  know  it  is  so,"  he  replied,  "because 
I  saw  a  hundred  of  them  beheaded  and 
I  measured  them  afterwards."  The 
story  w^as  corroborated  by  one  who  saw 
Coolidge  do  it. 

A  very  different  illustration  of  exact 
research  into  facts  and  feelings,  but  with 
no  announcement  of  categories,  ques- 
tionaires  and  tabular  statements,  is  a 
little  book  by  Jane  Addams,  called 
"The  Spirit  of  Youth."  It  is  not 
written  as  by  an  expert,  but  simply 
as  by  one  who  loves  youth  and  who 
finds  in  its  peccadillos  the  results  of 
natural,  unguided,  early  years.  How 
she  pleads  for  cultivation  of  the  imagi- 
nation among  the  children  of  the  poor, 
that  they  may  enjoy  good  acting  more 


than  live-cent  shows!  How  tenderly 
she  traces  the  ''moral  fatigue"  of  the 
youthful  poor  to  results  arising  from 
being  compelled  to  assume  responsi- 
bilities too  early  in  life!  The  book  is 
filled  w^ith  sympathetic  penetration  into 
the  follies  and  quibbles  of  boys  and  girls 
who,  finding  there  is  no  fun  in  the  even- 
ings at  home,  hunt  for  it  outside.  If 
we  could  have  her  winning  sincerity 
in  persuasion,  there  would  be  fewer 
phrases  as  summaries  of  activities. 

Why  need  the  spirit  be  labeled? 
Ten  years  hence  today's  phrases  will 
have  yielded  to  others.  Each,  in  turn, 
by  becoming  historical,  is  a  glimpse 
into  past  social  activities  and  a  guide- 
post  to  future  action.  And  all  the 
time  the  spirit  that  animated  the  past, 
as  it  does  the  ever  present,  is  the  spirit 
of  youth,  of  enjoyment  and  love  and 
sympathy. 


*  Neath  Skies  of  June 

Bv  Agnes  Lockhart  Hughes 


Under  the  apple  trees  drifts  of  white, 
In  the  meadow  gleam  kingcups,  gold, 

And  down  by  the  stile  kneels  a  Marguerite 
pale, 
Smiling  up  at  a  sunflower  bold. 

There's  the  drone  of  a  bee,  midst  the  grasses 
lush 

That  flash  forth  their  sabers  green, 
And  sweet  little  clovers  in  ruffled  frocks 

Peep  coy  through  their  fragrant  screen. 

The  brook  croons  a  lullaby,  soft  and  low, 
A  robin  trills  forth,  loud  and  long. 

While  ever\'where  borne  on  the  perfumed  air 
Are  merriment,  laughter  and  song. 


A  purple-flushed  pansy,  quite  deep  in  thought, 
Leans  o'er  the  pearl-tossed  stream, 

And  under  the  waving  dew-kissed  ferns 
The  scented  violets  dream 

With  a  soft  little  swish  of  her  silken  leaves, 

A  rosebud  opens  her  heart. 
And  a  butterfly,  poised  on  her  petals  pink, 

Vows  from  her  never  to  part. 

There's  a  song, —  there's  a  sigh,  —  a  laugh 
and  a  tear. 

But  love  sings  its  merry  rune, 
While  the  butterfly  kisses  his  amorous  rose 

'Xeath  the  turquoise  skies  of  June 


(P==^^^:.Si^^^£-.::iC:=n) 


The  Neighborly  Girls  Find  the  Open  Sesame 

By  Lee  McCrae 


BESS  MITCHELL  had  been  the 
center  of  attraction  at  the  last  two 
meetings  of  the  Neighborly  Club. 
It  seemed  so  interesting  to  have  a 
member  "return  alive"  from  a  whole 
six  months'  stay  on  the  western  plains. 
Besides,  Bess  was  a  famous  story- 
teller, and  one  who  always  sees  the 
comic  wherever  she  goes.  This  after- 
noon, however,  she  began  in  a  ver}^ 
final  way: 

"To  sum  it  all  up,  girls,  I  think  I 
had  such  a  good  time,  because  I  went 
expecting  to  have  it,  to  make  the  most 
of  things  and  to  like  the  people." 

"Passports  everywhere,  every  time, 
and  for  everybody,"  commented  Mar- 
garet Mills,  with  a  wise  nod  of  her  head. 

"Yes,  and  especially  true  in  the 
West,"  Bess  went  on.  "You  see  the 
majority  of  people  in  that  region  are 
there  to  build  their  fortunes;  the  farm 
and  business  have  not  been  inherited, 
as  in  older  sections,  and  each  man  has 
a  vital  interest  —  an  intense  concern 
for  their  "boom,"  the  crop  prospects, 
etc.  Even  the  women  and  children 
share  the  sense  of  responsibility  for 
the  town's  progress  and  pride  them- 
selves upon  every  advantage  it  pos- 
sesses. To  speak  slightingly  or  even 
patronizingly  of  it  is  to  offend  mortally 
every  inhabitant. 

"Fortunately,  I  went  with  rosy 
glasses,  expressed  my  likes  freely  and 
suppressed  my  dislikes.  As  a  result, 
the}^  flocked  around  me  until  I  felt 
like  the  'queen  of  the  May.'  Really  I 
owe  my  good  time  chiefly  to  what  Jo 
calls  the  *  habit  of  Uking  things.' " 

"That  is  all  right,  and  it  is  certainly 
your  side  of  the  matter,"  replied 
Louise  Hargrove.  "But  I  can  see 
their  side,  from  a  little  experience  I  had 
only  yesterday.  We  had  two  little 
country    cousins    come    to     visit     us. 


They  were  only  eleven  and  thirteen 
years  old,  and  we  knew  perfectly  well 
that  they  had  never  been  in  a  city  of 
any  size  before,  and  that  lots  of  things 
would  be  new  and  strange  to  them;  so 
I  anticipated  genuine  delight  in  taking 
them  about.  But  do  you  know,  they 
were  so  afraid  of  appearing  green  that 
they  would  not  show  pleasure  or  sur- 
prise at  anything.  I  took  them  to  see 
the  finest  houses,  to  the  Zoo,  to  the 
top  of  the  Monument,  through  the 
big  stores,  ever3rwhere;  yet  not  one 
single  exclamation  escaped  them.  I 
knew  they  were  seeing  it  all  —  their 
quick  eyes  showed  that  they  were 
keenly  alive  and  appreciative  —  but 
from  what  little  they  said  you  would 
have  thought  them  the  most  blase  of 
travelers.  It  was  so  disappointing! 
I  would  rather  have  had  them  act  green 
as  gourds! 

"So,"  Bess,    I    see    plainly    that    it 
was  your  expressions  of  delight  that 
charmed  those  westerners.     It  not  only 
pays  to  like  things,  as  you  say 
show  that  you  like  them." 

"Wise  conclusion  No.  2,'^'  ''  "  '^^e 
Norton,  clapping  her  hand:, 
fashion  among  these  merry* '♦'"••-'libors. 
* '  It  has  always  struck  me  as"  extremely 
bad  manners  as  well  as  bad  policy  for 
one  to  express  dislikes  —  except  oc- 
casionally," she  added. 

"Or  semi-occasionally,"  supple- 
mented Bess.  "But  really,  girls,  it 
was  not  premeditated  but  wholly 
spontaneous.  I  had  not  thought  about 
it  until  there  was  a  reception  given  for 
several  of  us  newcomers,  (And ,  by  the 
way,  the  elaborateness  and  the  style 
there  would  have  surprised  you.) 

"Among  the  guests  of  honor  was  the 
sister  of  the  town's  one  druggist,  a 
pretty  girl  who  had  come  out  from 
Cincinnati  for  a  month's  visit.     That 


14 


THE  NEIGHBORLY  GIRLS  FIND  THE  OPEN  SESAME 


15 


evening  she  acted  so  toploftical;  be- 
littled everything  western,  and  even 
compared  the  new  burg  with  old  Cin- 
cinnati. It  was  ridiculous  —  or  would 
have  been,  if  we  had  not  been  too  dis- 
gusted to  see  the  funny  side.  But  I  did 
laugh  to  see  how  the  people  dropped 
her.  Before  the  evening  was  out 
she  was  having  a  lonesome  time,  and 
I  was  told  that  not  a  soul  called  on  her. 
Not  another  invitation  did  she  get,  and 
when  she  left  there  was  no  mention  of 
the  fact  in  the  weekly  paper,  though  its 
editor  fairly  beat  the  bushes  for  news. 
She  showed  me  how  not  to  act!  " 

"Green  —  if  she  had  been  brought 
up  in  a  city,"  commented  Zoe. 

"She  certainly  lacked  common  cour- 
tesy—  " 

"And  hadn't  a  scintilla  of  culture!" 
cried  Cora.  "For  I  think  culture 
means  adaptability  as  much  as  any- 
thing. A  cultured  person  makes  every 
one  feel  at  ease,  and  appears  herself 
at  ease,  everywhere  and  under  all 
conditions.  On  the  other  hand,  a  per- 
son who  looks  at  the  world  through  a 
crack  in  the  fence  —  as  it  were  —  is 
always  pessimistic,  prejudiced  and  stub- 
born-piinded." 

'-'Axid  say,"  broke  in  the  neighbor 
cuixed  up  among  the  sofa  cushions, 
"r^nr,-..,vou  think  all  this  applies  partic- 
\  people  moving  from  one  town 
to  a|ip,i  cjr,  or  rather  from  one  section 
to  another?  They  go  of  their  own 
volition  —  as  a  rule  —  to  better  their 
own  condition;  yet  so  many  talk  and 
act  as  if  they  were  conferring  a  per- 
sonal favor  on  the  new  community  by 
coming  into  it.  They  criticise  right 
and  left,  constantly  referring  to  the  old 
home  as  a  veritable  Eden.  I  often 
feel  like  asking  such  what  they  did  to 
get  sent  out  of  Paradise." 

"Oh,  that  is  because  they  are  home- 
sick. You  are  too  hard  on  them," 
protested  Bess. 

"Well,  making  due  allowances  for 
homesickness,  you  know  very  well, 
Bess,  that  there  are  people  that  simply 


do  not  try  or  want  to  like  things. 
They  aggravate  their  troubles  and  ex- 
aggerate the  disagreeable  in  their  sur- 
roundings until  the  old  residenters  feel 
as  uncomfortable  as  possible,  and  their 
relations  become  strained  or  severed 
entirely.  Instead,  they  ought  to  go 
in  exactly  the  spirit  you  went,  seeing 
the  cheerful,  better  side,  and  using  a 
little  Christian  Science  —  or  rather 
Christian  charity  —  on  whatever  they 
dislike.  I  am  so  tired  of  complaints 
and  criticisms!" 

Loud  "amens"  greeted  this,  show- 
ing that  the  Club  was  of  one  mind  here, 
at  least. 

"Another  thing  about  it,"  continued 
the  voice  among  the  cushions,  "if  the 
movers,  loving  the  old  home,  go  reluc- 
tantly, because  of  circumstances,  they 
should  consider  themselves  its  repre- 
sentatives in  the  new  section.  Un- 
doubtedly a  western  person  coming 
East  is  looked  upon  as  a  type  of  that 
region,  and  he  or  she  should  feel  that,  in 
a  limited  sense,  the  reputation  of  their 
beloved  West  is  at  stake.  Some  do 
feel  that  responsibility,  but  I  wish  all 
movers  did." 

"Hear  me!  Surely  as  a  minister's 
daughter,  with  four  moves  to  my  credit, 
I  am  entitled  to  the  floor."  EUzabeth 
sprung  to  her  feet  enthusiastically. 
"This  is  strictly  confidential,  but  we've 
never  moved  that  I  haven't  shed  tears 
and  at  the  same  time  shaken  hands 
with  myself.  You  see  there  are  al- 
ways some  people  and  some  things  it 
breaks  one's  heart  to  leave,  and  also 
some  people  and  some  things  you  are 
delighted  to  get  away  from. 

"Besides,  we  have  found  that  God 
is  mighty  impartial  to  places,  putting 
nice  folks  everywhere  (sandwiched  in 
with  the  other  kind),  and  that  every 
climate  and  section  has  its  good  and 
bad  conditions.  The  scales  do  not  al- 
ways hang  as  evenly,  but  what's  the 
use  in  growling?" 

"Hurrah  for  the  minister's  daughter! 
Her     father's    own    beautiful     echo," 


16 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


exclaimed  Margaret,  with  real  admira- 
tion in  her  tone.  "I  firmly  believe 
that  optimism  and  the  art  of  saying 
gracious  things  ought  to  be  a  part  of  our 
educations,  especially  as  women.  The 
southern  people  have  the  latter  art 
cultivated  to  a  degree.  Indeed,  it  is  a 
large  factor  in  the  'southern  hospital- 
ity' you  hear  so  much  about.  In  the 
little  visit  I  made  in  Georgia  they  had 
me  so  flattered  and  happy  I  had  to 
come  home  to — -to  cool  off." 

"But  don't  so  many  'gracious  re- 
marks' make  you  suspect  their  sin- 
cerity?" asked  Cora, 

"O,  Co,  don't  look  for  motives!  It's 
like  pulling  a  rose  to  pieces  to  examine 
its  stem." 

At    this    there    was    vigorous    clap- 


ping, and  as  it  subsided  Bess  ex- 
claimed: 

"Let  me  finish  my  summary!  It 
not  only  pays  to  like  people  and  to  show 
it,  but  to  pretend  to  like  them  whether 
you  do  or  not  —  not  saying  anything 
untruthful,  but  being  pleasant  to  all, 
as  is  one's  Christian  duty,  enjoined  by 
Him  who  said,  'Love  your  enemies.' 
The  delicate  art  of  saying  nice  things 
is  well  worth  all  our  study,  dears.  To 
abstain  from  making  comparisons,  to 
cease  disagreeable  criticism  and  voice 
only  kindly  thoughts  —  isn't  this  wo- 
man's part  in  the  complex  medley  we 
call  life  in  the  twentieth  century  ? ' ' 

"Here's  the  tea!"  cried  the  hostess. 
"Let's  drink  a  toast  to  Bess  and  her 
ideals!" 


The  Bridewell  Cake 

By   Madeline  Burrage 


MISS  MEHITABLE  GREEN 
looked  with  unseeing  eyes  out 
upon  the  dreary  wet  line  of  trees 
that  bordered  Stony  Brook  pasture. 
Her  thin  hands  were  clenched  tightly 
in  her  lap  and  her  face  was  set. 

"She  did  it  to  spite  me!  I'll  pay 
her  back!  I'll  —  I'll  — "  Miss  Mehita- 
ble  paused  as  if  to  consider  well  Avhat 
might  be  the  most  terrible  punishment 
that  she  could  inflict  upon  her  neighbor. 
"I'll  get  the  recipe  for  the  Bridewell 
cake!  I'll  get  it,  even  if  my  mother, 
an'  her  mother  before  her,  failed.  Oh, 
I'll  pay  her  back!" 

In  the  Httle  room  all  was  still  save 
for  the  singing  of  the  tiny  kettle  and 
the  ticking  of  the  clock  in  the  comer. 
Miss  ]\Iehitable  was  thinking  hard. 
How  could  she  do  it  ?  The  attempt  had 
failed  so  many  times.  How  closely  the 
Bridewells  had  guarded  the  recipe  of 
their  famous  cake,   despite  the  many 


efforts  to  beg,  borrow  or  steal  the 
coveted  treasure.  Well,  she  would 
get  it  by  hook  or  by  crook.  Spiteful 
thing!  Sarah  Bridewell  should  pay 
for  her  meanness!  The  thin  hands 
clenched  themselves  more  tightly  than 
ever  and  Mehitable  Green's  forehead 
puckered  itself  into  innumerable  fine 
wrinkles. 

In  her  own  kitchen  across  the  road, 
Sarah  Bridewell  was  also  sitting,  lost  in 
thought. 

"Hetty's  got  such  a  temper,"  she 
sighed  to  herself.  ' '  She  flies  off  the  han- 
dle, as  Ma  used  to  say,  at  the  least 
thing.  How  should  I  know  that  the 
calico  I  bought  for  my  new  dress  this 
mornin'  was  the  pattern  she  wanted, 
and  that  I'd  got  all  there  was  left? 
She  says  she  told  me  all  about  it,  but  I 
don't  seem  to  recollect.  I  don't  care 
nothin'  about  that  particular  piece, 
except  that  after  she  was  so  mean  an' 


THE  BRIDEWELL  CAKE 


17 


all,  I  just  won't  give  it  up  to  her!  I 
guess  she'll  get  over  it,  though." 

Rising,  she  went  into  the  little  pantry 
to  begin  preparations  for  her  meager  tea. 
As  she  did  so  her  eye  fell  on  a  tiny 
mirror  hanging  on  the  wall.  Her  hand 
instinctively  went  to  fasten  a  stray 
lock  that  in  some  way  had  escaped  from 
the  prim  knot  into  which  her  thin 
gray  hair  was  tightly  drawn. 

"I  wonder  what  Ma  ever  hung  that 
glass  in  here  for?  Goodness  knows, 
the  Bridewells  ain't  never  been  any- 
thing on  looks.  Sometimes  I  think  I'll 
take  it  down,  but  I  kind  o'  hate  to, 
it's  been  there  so  long."  She  stepped 
a  little  closer.  "Well,  I  declare,  I 
never  noticed  you  could  see  so  much  of 
that  old  clump  of  syringa  right  in  this 
mirror.  Sarah  Bridewell,"  she  re- 
marked severely,  a  few  moments  later, 
"quit  lookin'  at  yourself  in  the 
glass.  You're  nothin'  but  a  homely 
old  maid." 

With  this  severe  criticism  she  turned 
away  and  busied  herself  with  the  little 
teapot. 

That  night  Mehitable  Green  lay 
awake  for  long  hours,  planning  for  the 
earUest  possible  moment  when  she  might 
put  her  plan  into  execution.  Suddenly 
the  thought  came  to  her. 

."She'll  make  it  tomorrow  for  the 
Minister's  Social,"  she  said  aloud,  tri- 
umphantly. "Oh,  I  must  get  it  I  I 
must!  But  how'll  I  do  it?  I  can't  go 
over  an'  sit  with  her  while  she  makes  it. 
Mother  tried  that  with  old  Mis  Bridewell 
an'  I  remember  she  put  her  out.  How 
mad  she  was!  If  I  could  only  hide 
somewhere.  But  there  ain't  any  place, 
for  I  know  Sarah  Bridewell's  pantry  as 
well  as  I  do  my  own,  an'  I'm  too  big  to 
squat  down  behind  the  sugar  barrel." 
She  laughed  scornfully  to  herself. 
"An'  Sarah  would  see  me, if  I  stood  out- 
side the  window,  for  there  ain't  any- 
thing to  get  behind.  Why,  yes,  there 
is,  too!  The  old  s^^ringa  where  w^e  used 
to  play  dolls!     I'll  do  it!     I'll  hide  in 


them  bushes,  an'  then  she'll  never  see 
me!     Oh,  I'll  pay  her  back!" 

The  next  morning  both  Sarah  Bride- 
well and  her  enemy  rose  early.  The  one 
great  event  of  the  year,  the  Minister's 
Social,  was  to  be  held  that  evening. 
All  the  good  ladies  of  the  village  an- 
nually contributed  good  things  and 
there  was  much  rivalry  as  to  who  should 
produce  the  most  delicious  dainty. 

Needless  to  say,  the  Bridewell  cake 
always  figured  at  these  occasions  and 
was  a  cause  of  great  jealousy,  for  it  had 
always  held  the  much-coveted  "first 
place." 

It  had  cost  Sarah  Bridewell  a  great 
deal  of  careful  planning  to  be  able  to 
make  the  cake  this  time,  for  it  was  a 
very  expensive  one  for  her.  The  poor 
little  lady  had  hard  work  to  make  both 
ends  meet  with  only  ordinary  expendi- 
tures, and  at  that  time  of  year  prices 
were  unusually  high.  However,  it  was 
a  necessity  to  preserve  the  honor  of  the 
Bridewells  and  so  she  had  given  up  her 
new  spring  bonnet,  although  she  had 
worn  the  old  one  for  at  least  eight  years 
and  it  was  getting  a  trifle  shabby. 

"The  Bridewell  cake  has  got  to  be 
at  the  social,"  she  told  herself,  sternly, 
"and  you're  too  old  to  care  about  a 
bonnet,  Sarah! " 

Immediately  after  breakfast  Miss 
Bridewell  repaired  to  her  pantry  and 
Mehitable  Green  stole  cautiously  to  her 
hiding  place.  It  seemed  centuries  from 
the  time  when  she  slipped  from  her 
kitchen  door  to  the  time  when  she  ar- 
rived at  the  syringa  bushes.  Her  foot- 
steps echoed  loudly,  as  they  never  had 
done  before.  Even  the  very  robins  ap- 
peared to  cry,  "Sa-rah!  Het-t}^!"  as  if 
to  warn  the  former  of  the  thief's  ap- 
proach. Out  in  the  yard  a  rooster 
crowed.  Miss  Mehitable  started  vio- 
lently and  little  chills  ran  up  and  down 
her  spine,  for  to  her  the  innocent  bird 
seemed  to  say,  "Where's  the  Bridewell 
ca-a-ke?" 

xA.t   last    she    gained     shelter,     and, 


18 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


crouching  down,  waited  impatiently  for 
the  preparation  of  the  famous  cake. 

It  was  not  a  comfortable  place.  Me- 
hitable  grew  cramped  and  cold ;  her  foot 
went  to  sleep  and  caused  her  untold 
agonies.  But  all  her  sufferings  were 
forgotten,  when  Sarah  Bridewell  ap- 
peared with  a  basket  of  eggs. 

Slowly  and  methodically  she  counted 
them  out. 

"A  dozen  eggs,"  whispered  Mehita- 
ble  Green,  her  e3'es  sparkling. 

Next,  putting  aside  the  eggs,  Sarah 
began  to  weigh  butter  and  sugar. 

Miss  Mehitable  repeated  each  amount 
under  her  breath,  in  order  that  nothing 
should  be  forgotten. 

Suddenly  the  little  song  that  Sarah 
Bridewell  had  been  humming  died  on 
her  Hps.  The  tin}^  mirror  had  caught 
her  eye.  What  was  that  she  saw^r  It 
was  moving!  She  stepped  nearer  to 
the  glass  as  if  to  look  at  her  own  face 
and  stealthily  peered  into  its  depths. 

It  w^as  —  it  was  —  Mehitable  Green 
spying  on  her  to  get  her  recipe ! 

Her  first  impulse  was  to  rush  and 
drag  Hetty  from  her  hiding  place,  but 
she  refrained. 

She  would  play  with  her  mouse  I 
She  w^ould  punish  Hetty  Green!  She 
should  see! 

"Vain  old  thing,"  said  Mehitable  to 
herself  in  the  syringa,  "she  hasn't 
anything  to  boast  of  in  the  wa}'  of 
looks! " 

To  all  outward  intents  and  purposes 
Sarah  Bridew^ell  went  back  to  her  cake- 
making  quietly,  but  her  heart  beat 
suftocatingl}'. 

If  she  could  only  change  it  enough! 
Hetty  would  never  know.  But  it 
would  be  so  expensive,  for  she  would 
have  to  make  two  cakes  now.  She 
would  have  to  go  without  meat  for  at 
least  two  or  three  months.  She  shut 
her  lips  firmly.  "Sarah,  a^ou  don^t 
need  meat.  'Tain't  as  if  you  were  fat! 
Do  you  hear  me?" 

"Let  me  see,"  said  Sarah  Bridewell 
aloud,    "eight   eggs."     To   herself   she 


added  hastih^  "That's  four  less;  it 
ought  to  be  about  right."  Then  aloud 
again,  "Add  to  the  creamed  butter  and 
sugar,  —  and  put  in  a  cup  an'  a  half 
of  milk,"  suiting  the  action  to  the 
words. 

Silently  she  hoped  that  the  cake 
might  not  appear  too  eccentric  in 
Hetty's  eyes.  It  certainly  seemed 
queer  to  her. 

On  she  went,  sometimes  putting  in 
more  of  an  ingredient,  sometimes  less, 
as  her  fancy  dictated.  It  was  exciting 
work.  Sarah  Bridewell's  face  grew 
flushed  and  her  lips  twitched. 

"My,  I  wonder  what  makes,  her  so 
nervous,"  remarked  Hetty  in  the 
syringa  bushes.  "Guess  she  must  be 
gettin'  old.  Let  me  see,  she  must  be 
fifty-four  or  five." 

It  was  a  singular  cake  that  was  made 
that  day  in  the  Bridewell  kitchen,  but 
Mehitable  Green  congratulated  herself 
on  having  gotten  the  true  recipe  at  last. 

What  a  stir  it  would  make  in  the 
village!     Oh,  it  w^ould  be  glorious! 

Her  thoughts  were  interrupted  there. 
What  was  Sarah  Bridewell  saving? 

"Kitty,"  she  spoke  to  the  tortoise- 
shell  cat  curled  up  in  the  comer, 
"Ivitty,  I'd  like  to  tell  Mehitable 
Green  just  w^hat  I  think  of  her.  She 
is  a  mean,  spiteful  old  woman;  an', 
Kitty.  I'm  right  glad  I  got  her  old  calico, 
an'  I'd  do  it  again,  too,  if  I  got  the 
chance! " 

At  this  declaration  Hetty  nearly 
sprang  from  her  hiding  place  to  denounce 
Sarah  Bridewell  and  her  cake,  but  on 
second  thought  she  remained  quiet. 
Little  did  she  know  Sarah  was  glory- 
ing in  her  power ! 

"I'll  pa}^  her  back,"  breathed  Me- 
hitable. "Oh,  won't  it  be  fine  when 
there  are  two  Bridewell  cakes  at  the 
social  tonight!" 

The  moment  that  Sarah  disappeared 
into  the  kitchen  with  the  cake,  Me- 
hitable Green  hastened  from  her  re- 
treat, repeating  the  precious  recipe 
all  the  wav  home. 


REXDERIXG  CHEESE  DIGESTIBLE 


19 


Once  there  she  set  about  making  the 
loaf,  but  when  it  was  done,  to  her  as- 
tonishment, it  was  not  the  Bridewell 
cake.  She  tasted  and  stared,  and 
stared  and  tasted.  It  was  rather  good, 
but  it  was  not  the  cake. 

"Sarah's  losin'  her  mind,"  she  said 
finally,  with  con-sdction,  "she's  for- 
gotten the  recipe.  My,  ain't  that 
awful!" 

In  her  own  little  kitchen  opposite, 
Sarah  Bridewell  sat  with  her  cat  in  her 
lap. 

"I'U  never  take  that  mirror  down." 
she  said  slowly. 

Then  she  rose  with  decision  and  half 
an  hour  later  a  real  Bridewell  cake  was 
cooling  by  the  kitchen  window,  where, 
as  Sarah  remarked,  there  weren't  any 
bushes. 


That  night  all  Elmville  went  to  the 
social.  Mehitable  Green  was  a  httle 
late  and  as  she  came  into  the  room  a 
clear  voice  floated  to  her,  "Just  a 
Httle  more  of  that  delicious  Bridewell 
cake,  please."  She  pressed  forward, 
her  eyes  shining  with  excitement. 

There  must  be  some  mistake,  for  did 
she  not  know  that  tonight  there  was  no 
such  cake? 

But  what  was  this?  People  were 
exclaiming,  as  they  always  did,  how 
good  it  was  and  how  they  longed  for  the 
recipe;  and  there,  before  her  very  eyes, 
was  all  that  remained  of  the  handsome 
loaf. 

And  then,  as  she  stared  and  stared, 
she  heard  a  taunting  voice  at  her  elbow, 
"You're  just  a  Httle  too  big  for  them 
syringa  bushes.  Hettyl" 


Rendering  Cheese  Digestible 


Bv  Mrs.  A.  P.  Owens 


ALL  the  nourishing  elements  in 
a  gallon  of  milk  are  represented 
in  a  pound  of  cheese.  Beef 
has  less  than  half  the  food  value 
of  cheese,  which  may  be  said  to 
contain  a  third,  each,  of  water,  fat 
and  proteid.  A  pound  of  cheese 
yields  three  times  the  energy  in  a 
pound  of  beef.  Such  are  the  esti- 
mates of  conservative  writers.  Some 
figures  go  much  higher.  When  one 
adds  to  these  considerations  the  fact 
that  a  pound  of  cheese  can  be  obtained 
at  about  one-third  the  cost  of  three 
pounds  of  beefsteak,  which  is  its 
nutritive  equivalent,  it  is  at  once 
e^^ident  that  we  possess  in  cheese 
a  most  economical  substitute  for 
meat. 

But  cheese  is  not  an  article  of  diet 
easily  dealt  with  by  deHcate  digestions, 
for  the  fat  forms  a  waterproof  coating, 
which  prevents  access  of  the  digestive 


juices  to  the  casein.  The  larger  the 
lumps  of  cheese  which  enter  the 
stomach,  the  slower  will  this  access  be. 
Hence  the  importance,  often  urged,  of 
thoroughly  chewing  every  mouthful 
eaten.  Proper  mastication  is  made  the 
easier  by  grating  before  cooking,  3'et, 
even  when  grated  and  reduced  to  the 
finest  possible  particles  by  the  teeth, 
this  splendid  food  proves  indigestible 
to  nineteen  people  out  of  twenty. 
However,  an  able  writer  on  the  chemis- 
try of  cookery,  Mattieu  WilHams,  has 
pointed  out  a  way  of  preparing  cheese 
which  renders  it  perfectly  digestible, 
as  I,  a  confirmed  dyspeptic,  whose 
stomach  revolts  at  so  innocent  a  thing 
as  a  sweet  cracker,  can  testify,  and  my 
experience  has  been  dupHcated  in  the 
households  of  numerous  friends.  This 
method  is  very  simple,  the  cheese  being 
nearly  dissolved  by  the  addition  of 
bicarbonate   of  potash.      Casein  forms 


20 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


soluble  compounds  with  alkalies.  Bi- 
carbonate of  potash  is  an  alkali,  harm- 
less as  another  of  more  common  use, 
bicarbonate  of  soda,  if  used  in  the  right 
quantities;  and  it  supplies  the  potash 
so  necessary  to  health,  and  unavoid- 
ably eliminated  in  cheese  making,  not 
only  rendering  the  cheese  digestible, 
but  neutralizing  the  fatty  acids  so 
irritating  to  the  sensitive  lining  of  the 
stomach.  It  may  be  had  at  about  ten 
cents  an  ounce.  From  a  quarter  to 
half  a  teaspoonful  is  sufficient  to  nearly 
dissolve  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  cheese, 
if  the  latter  be  first  grated  or  chopped 
into  fragments. 

By  the  addition  of  milk  and  eggs,  a 
delicious  and  exceedingly  nutritious 
pudding  or  fondu  may  be  prepared,  at 
small  cost.  "Full  cream,"  or  common 
"store"  cheese  contains  rather  more 
nutriment  than  parmesan,  at  less  than 
half  the  price.  Stilton,  also,  costing 
twice  as  much  as  the  ordinary  kind,  is 
of  the  same  food  value.  Of  course, 
these  considerations  are  of  little  interest 
to  those  who  eat  cheese  merely  as  a 
relish  at  the  end  of  a  substantial  meal, 


with  particular  regard  to  its  flavor. 
To  others,  who  seek  a  cheap,  efficient 
substitute  for  flesh  food,  they  are  vital. 
Swiss  cheese,  or  cheese  made  from 
goat's  milk,  for  example,  is  slightly 
more  digestible  than  the  cheaper  kind. 
The  common  variety,  too,  is  frequently 
adulterated  with  an  animal  fat,  a 
product  practically  identical  with  oleo- 
margarine, unless  one  purchases  the 
best  grade,  and  the  adulterant,  wffiile 
quite  as  wholesome  in  one  way  as  good 
butter,  is  rather  more  difficult  of 
digestion. 

Here  is  an  excellent  recipe  for  pre- 
paring the  cheese:  Grate  a  quarter  of  a 
pound ;  add  to  a  gill  of  milk  in  which  has 
been  dissolved  a  saltspoonful  of  pow- 
dered bicarbonate  of  potash,  one  of  flour 
of  mustard,  one  of  white  pepper,  a  pinch 
of  cayenne,  and  the  sixth  part  of  a  nut- 
meg. Heat  carefully  until  the  cheese  is 
completely  dissolved.  Add  a  cup  of 
bread  crumbs,  and  three  eggs,  well 
beaten,  stirring  the  whole.  Butter  a 
shallow  dish,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and 
bake  it  until  it  is  nearly  solidified.  Less 
eggs  may  be  used,  if  desired. 


The  Passing  of  Pemmican 

■  By  John'^  Northern  Hilliard 


"T  "TE  who  discovers  a  new  dish," 
I  I  said  Savarin,  "does  more  for 
-»-  -■-  humanity  than  he  who  dis- 
covers a  new  star."  The  witty  author 
of  the  "Physiologic  du  Gout"  did  not 
stop  to  think  that  navigation  is  the  out- 
com.e  of  astronomy,  and  thus,  by  de- 
duction, America  owes  her  existence 
to  a  star.  But  there  is  much  truth  in 
Savarin's  saying,  as  much  as  in  any 
epigram  —  perhaps  more  —  for  it  is 
certain  that  man  began  eating  when  he 
was  created,  and  it  is  a  habit  that  he 
has  indulged  to  this  day. 


If  the  discovery  of  a  new  dish  is 
worthy  of  preservation  in  literature, 
shall  not  the  passing  of  an  old  and  well- 
established  article  of  diet  be  fittingly 
commemorated  ?  Fifty  years  ago  pem- 
mican was  to  the  shifting  population  of 
the  Northwest  what  flour  is  in  the  pres- 
ent day  to  the  people  of  the  civilized 
portions  of  the  globe  —  the  staple  and 
most  common  food  of  the  country. 
Today  pemmican  —  even  in  the  North- 
west territory  —  is  as  obsolete  as 
auks  and  pterodactyls.  There  is  a 
dried  beef  product  called  pemmican,  but 


THE  PASSING  OF  PEMMICAN 


21 


it  is  no  more  pemmican  than  milk  is 
wine.  Pemmican  passed  with  the  buf- 
falo. Nevertheless  the  word  is  insep- 
arably linked  in  the  history  of  our 
■pioneer  settlements,  and  for  this  reason 
it  ought  never  to  be  expunged  from 
our  vocabulary. 

Pemmican  disappeared  with  the  buf- 
falo. It  is  a  Cree  word  meaning  mix- 
ture, or  something  made  with  fat.  It 
was  composed  of  buffalo  meat,  dried  in 
the  sun  and  pounded  fine,  mixed  with 
melted  buffalo  fat,  and  was  sewn  up 
in  sacks  made  from  the  raw  hide  of  the 
buffalo,  with  the  ha;r  outside.  The 
Hudson  Bay  Company  used  to  buy 
hundreds  of  bags  of  the  dark,  nutritious 
compound,  annually,  from  the  Indians 
for  use  at  its  trading  posts  scattered 
over  the  vast  wilderness  stretching 
from  the  Red  River  and  Hudson  Bay  to 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  from  the 
two  Saskatchewans  to  the  Arctic  Sea, 
a  region  then  designated  Prince  Ru- 
pert's Land. 

Pemmican  was  a  food  that  kept  for 
years,  which  made  it  a  necessity  to  the 
trappers  and  hunters  employed  by  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company.  It  was  also 
the  Indian's  staple  food,  for  owing  to 
the  migratory  habits  of  the  buffalo 
herds  fresh  meat  was  not  always  obtain- 
able. The  red  man  was  an  adept  at 
preparing  pemmican.  After  the  hunt 
the  meat  was  packed  on  the  travois 
the  bones  broken  and  the  marrow  ex- 
tracted, and,  loaded  with  the  red  spoil 
the  hunting  party  returned  to  camp. 
Here  the  meat  was  cut  into  wide,  thin 
sheets  and  hung  upon  pole  frames  in  the 
sun  and  wind  to  dry.  After  a  day  or 
two  these  sheets  were  removed  and 
spread  upon  the  clean  prairie  grass, 
where,  if  the  weather  continued  fair, 
they  soon  became  as  hard  as  shingles. 
They  were  then  placed  upon  a  hide 
threshing  floor,  with  the  sides  elevated 
on  short  pegs  to  form  a  sort  of  basin, 
and    beaten    with    flails    or    between 


stones  until  the  meat  was  reduced  al- 
most to  a  powder.  The  strange  thing 
was  that  if  properl}^  handled  the  flesh 
seldom,  if  ever,  became  tainted,  al- 
though in  any  other  than  the  dry,  pure 
atmosphere  of  the  Northwest  such  a 
method  of  preparing  the  food  would 
doubtless  be  impossible.  Meanwhile 
the  marrow  and  other  choice  fat  had 
been  rendered,  and  bags,  some  two  by 
one  and  one-half  feet,  of  raw  buffalo 
hide,  doubled  over  at  the  bottom  and 
sewn  up  at  the  sides  with  the  sinew  of 
the  animal,  made  for  the  reception  of 
the  pemmican.  The  melted  fat  was 
next  poured  over  the  shredded  meat  in 
the  threshing  basin,  and  the  whole 
mixed  to  the  consistency  of  paste. 
This  was  the  pemmican.  It  was  shov- 
eled into  the  sacks,  pounded  down,  and, 
after  the  tops  had  been  sewn  up  and 
the  bags  jumped  upon  to  make  them 
flat,  the  cooled  pemmican  packages 
were  solid  and  almost  as  hard  as  so 
many  boulders. 

Such  was  pemmican.  It  was  not  an 
inviting  dish,  judged  by  modern  stand- 
ards of  food.  The  rules  of  cleanliness 
and  hygiene  were  not  scrupulously 
observed  in  its  preparation.  There 
was  no  attempt  made  at  sterilization. 
And  yet  pemmican  was  a  pretty  good 
food,  when  one  was  hungry.  Francis 
Parkman  testifies,  in  his  "Oregon 
Trail,"  to  the  nutritious  properties  of 
the  food  and  also  to  its  palatability  to 
the  person  who  is  hungry.  When  the 
pioneer  desired  to  eat  pemmican  he 
chopped  a  piece  off  with  an  ax,  sack  and 
all.  If  he  had  time,  he  cooked  the 
adamantine  morsel;  if  not,  he  ate 
it  just  as  it  was,  hard  and  dry.  It 
certainly  was  not  a  delicacy,  but  it 
served  its  purpose.  The  great  North- 
west owes  its  advancement  to  pem- 
mican, for  the  sinewy  men  that  fed 
on  it  redeemed  a  wilderness.  It  was  a 
wholesome,  hardy  diet,  the  strong  meat 
of  men. 


22 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


THE 

BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OP 

Culinary  Science   and    Domestic    Economics 
Janet  McKenzie   Hill,  Editor 

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ECONOMY 

THE  Cooking-School  Maga- 
zine stands  for  wise  economy 
always.  Luxury,  extravagance 
and  wastefulness  are  ever  the  fore- 
runners of  evil  times ;  while  temperance, 
prudence  and  thrift  lead  to  a  uniform 
and  a  possible  prosperity  competency 
in  old  age. 

Good  health  is  the  prime  source  of 
enjoyment  and  the  main  object  in 
living.  To  secure  this  all  other  things 
should  be  made  subordinate.  Is  not 
temperance  in  all  things  conducive  to 
the  highest  degree  of  health?  Hence, 
for  manifold  reasons,  people  are  not 
taking  kindly  to  a  rise  in  the  price  of 
the  necessities  of  life.  Quite  a  different 
procedure  had  long  been  anticipated. 
In  fact,  to  raise  the  price  of  anything, 


at  the  present,  seems  an  unwise  policy, 
for  people  are  in  the  mood  of  wanting  to 
know  the  reason  why. 

Widespread  healthfulness  and  the 
cost  of  food  products  are  in  close  conse- 
quence. To  produce  a  strong  and 
vigorous  race,  food,  plentiful,  whole- 
some and  cheap,  is  the  first  requisite. 
Truly  wise  economy  can  be  practiced 
in  the  choice  of  food  and  in  the  pur- 
chase and  serving  of  the  same,  but  the 
supply  cannot  be  stinted  without  the 
gravest  consequences. 

PAST,    PRESENT     AND    FUTURE 
TIME 

WE  believe  in  progress,  in  mak- 
ing the  most  of  the  present, 
and  in  looking  forward  to 
higher  well-being  in  the  future.  Are 
there  any  who  would  wish  to  go  back 
a  century  or  two  as  a  better  era  in  which 
to  begin  life  ?  As  Mary  Johnston  writes 
in  the  Atlantic  Monthly,  "for  why 
should  we  continue  to  pour  our  minds 
into  mediaeval  molds,  into  eighteenth- 
century  molds,  long  after  candle  molds 
have  been  discarded  in  favor  of  the 
electric  light  ? " 

To  us  the  conditions  of  life  today, 
compared  with  those  of  even  fifty 
years  ago,  seem  simply  amazing.  Modern 
science  has  already  done  much  and  is  des- 
tined to  do  still  more  for  the  betterment 
of  the  common  welfare.  This  word, 
science,  on  account  of  its  associations, 
may  be  more  or  less  hateful  to  some. 
But  ignore  the  use  of  the  word  and 
think  and  speak  of  experience  or  his- 
tory, which  means  the  same  thing,  and 
we  reach  the  same  result.  For  history 
is  only  the  partial  narrative  of  man's 
experience  and  deeds  from  age  to  age. 
Relying  upon  man's"  past  experience 
and  what  he  has  wrought  out  by  dint 
of  thought,  men  and  women  today  are 
able  to  build  more  surely  for  future 
weal.  It  is  evident  that  we  are  here 
to  live,  to  get  as  much  as  possible  out 
of  life's  experience;  and  all  agree  that 
to  live,  now  and  here,  the  best  one  can. 


EDITORIALS 


23 


is  the  fittest  preparation  for  a  life  to 
come. 

In  the  multitude  of  objects  that  in- 
terest us  here,  we  take  it  that  great 
comfort  and  satisfaction  are  to  be 
found  in  making  a  single  spot  of  earth 
more  beautiful  and  attractive  than  it 
was  before.  Gardens,  both  in  number 
and  extent,  are  to  be' among  the  future 
wonders  of  the  world.  Eden  is  not 
lost,  but  is  to  be  won.  Were  people 
in  general  properly  disposed,  earth 
might  be  made  a  vast  garden.  Note 
what  the  village  improvement  society 
has  done  in  places  Hke  Stockb ridge, 
Lenox,  Northampton,  Mass.,  Cornish, 
N.H.,  and  many  others  in  the  land, 
to  cultivate  a  taste  for  attractive  and 
wholesome  environments,  and  the  in- 
ference is  plain:  no  tow^n  can  afford  to 
be  without  its  village  improvement 
society.  From  a  prudent,  aesthetic 
or  otherwise  point  of  view,  its  work  is 
invaluable.  Aside  from  the  increased 
value  of  real  estate  that  is  sure  to 
follow  any  considerable  effort  in  this 
line,  the  gain  to  residents  in  health, 
comfort  and  daily  enjoyment  is  be- 
yond measure. 

We  must  say  we  are  not  fond  of  the 
antique;  we  like  modem,  up-to-date 
things;  we  would  prefer  rather  to  live 
in  the  twenty-first  than  in  the  eight- 
eenth century.  But,  as  it  is,  we  Vv411 
try  to  get  along  as  well  as  we  can  for 
a  brief  period  in  this  the  twentieth 
century. 

THE    LESSON    OF     THE     COMET 

WE  are  anxious  to  see  our  strange 
visitor  in  the  heavens  because 
it  is  an  object  we  have  never 
seen  before  and  shall  never  see  again. 
Our  earth  encircles  the  sun  in  three 
hundred  and  sixty-five  days ;  the  comet 
now  approaching  nearest  the  sun  at  the 
rate  of  two  million  miles  a  day  makes 
its  elliptical  circuit  in  seventy- six  years. 
And  yet  we  are  taught  that  there  are 
comets  that  become  visible  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  our  sun  but  once  in  a  thousand 


years.  Do  not  these  items  indicate 
space  incomprehensible  by  the  human 
mind?  How  little  do  we  really  know 
about  what  is  taking  place  within  the 
limits  of  a  single  solar  system.  Was  it 
not  Kepler,  an  astronomer,  who  said 
the  undevout  astronomer  is  mad? 

The  contemplation  of  such  occur- 
rences as  these  may  well  give  us  en- 
larged views  of  the  universe,  and  at  the 
same  time  reveal  to  us  our  own  individ* 
ual  insignificance.  A  sense  of  deep 
humility  is  the  lesson  impressed  on  us 
as  we  gaze  upon  these  wondrous 
strangers  in  the  sky.  "When  I  con- 
sider thy  heavens,  the  work  of  thy  fin- 
gers, the  moon  and  the  stars,  which 
thou  hast  ordained ;  what  is  man,  that 
thou  art  mindful  of  him?" 

A  deal  of  superstition  has  ever 
attended  the  appearance  of  comets. 

"When    beggars    die   there   are   no   comets 

seen; 
The  heavens  themselves  blaze  forth  the  death 

of  princes." 

FASHIONS  OLD  AND  NEW 

IN  a  popular  story  book,  an  old-fash- 
ioned country  tea-party  is  described 
with  a  catalog  of  the  good  things 
provided  for  the  occasion.  There  were 
"jellied  chicken  and  cold  tongue;  two 
kinds  of  jelly,  red  and  yellow;  whipped 
cream  and  lemon  pie;  and  cherry  pie 
and  three  kinds  of  cookies,  and  fruit 
cake,  and  yellow  plum  preserves;  and 
pound  cake  and  layer  cake,  and  bis- 
cuits.' '  Imagination  quails  before  such 
an  array,  and  one  wonders  how  the 
good  people  of  old  ever  lived  to  the 
standard  of  threescore  years  and  ten. 
Certainly  extravagant  hospitality  is 
no  new  thing.  When  we  hear  constant 
criticism  of  the  high  living  in  modem 
homes,  it  is  fair  to  remind  ourselves 
of  older  customs.  The  influence  of  all 
modem  teaching  in  domestic  science 
is  against  the  promiscuous  lavishness 
of  old-fashioned  entertainment.  With 
the  same  amount  of  time  and  thought, 


24 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


a  menu  may  be  prepared,  warranted 
against  causing  indigestion,  yet  afford- 
ing equal  gastronomic  satisfaction. 
Good  taste  and  delicacy  have  replaced 
vulgar  display  and  overfeeding.  In 
modem  culinary  creations  art  conceals 
art  so  skillfully  that  however  difficult 
the  performance,  the  finished  dish  has 
the  appearance  of  elegant  simplicity. 
Best  of  all,  a  dish  is  valued  not  for 
its  richness  and  cost,  but  for  its  dainti- 
ness and  novelty.  The  part  played  by 
decoration  and  service  is  also  much 
greater.  On  the  whole,  the  contrast 
betw^een  the  old  and  the  new  is  mxuch 
in  favor  of  the  latter,  in  the  direction 
of  practical  common  sense  as  well  as 
artistic  qualit}^ — -e.  m.  h. 

AWFULLY  BUSY 

THE  words  are  in  ever3^body's 
mouth;  it  is  the  great  American 
catch  phrase.  It  is  the  excuse 
for  all  shortcomings,  the  reason  for 
every  mishap.  On  the  whole,  nobody 
seems  to  regret  being  awfully  busy; 
it  is  a  matter  of  satisfaction  to  be  in 
the  fashion.  To  have  a  day  of  leisure, 
or  even  an  hour  to  oneself  would  argue 
that  one  was  not  at  all  in  the  swim. 
So  there  are  many  who  multiply  en- 
gagements foolishly  with  the  mistaken 
idea  that  it  is  keeping  up  with  the 
times  to  be  awfully  busy.  With  not 
a  few  it  amounts  almost  to  a  disease 
to  be  always  occupied,  and  the  disease 
finally  develops  into  nervous  prostra- 
tion. It  is  a  pity  that  we  cannot  learn 
something  from  the  ways  of  Nature, 
who  is  never  in  a  hurry.  There  is  an 
old  proverb  which  we  would  do  well 
to  write  upon  our  walls:  "Make  haste 
slowly."  Here  and  there  we  find  some 
one  living  up  to  that  standard,  and  we 
feel  at  once  the  restfulness  of  such  a 
character.  The  calm,  well-poised  per- 
son who  accomplishes  great  things 
and  who  can  be  permanently  relied 
upon,  does  very  little  talking.  The 
world's  real  workers  never  complain 
of  being  "awfully  busy." — e.  m.  h. 


HALLEY'S  COMET 

OF  all  the  famous  comets  Halley's 
is  the  most  interesting;  for,  by 
the  aid  of  the  Chinese  astronomi- 
cal records,  its  history  can  be  traced  back 
for  nearly  two  thousand  years.  A 
Roman  writer  mentions  its  appearance 
in  B.C.  12;  and  it'was  the  comet  which 
Josephus  tells  us  appeared  during  the 
rebellion  of  the  Jews  in  A.D.  66,  and 
hung  like  a  flaming  sword  over  Jerusa- 
lem, heralding  its  destruction.  It  ap- 
peared several  times  during  the  su- 
premacy of  the  Roman  Empire,  —  "a 
very  large  and  fearful  comet,"  frighten- 
ing people  nearly  out  of  their  wits. 
Years  later  it  terrified  the  son  of  Charle- 
magne so  that  he  spent  whole  nights  in 
prayer  and  poured  out  his  money  in 
charities.  Its  great  tail  blazed  across 
the  sky  when  William  the  Norman 
landed  in  England  in  1066  and  con- 
quered the  Saxon  Harold.  It  was  em- 
broidered afterwards  by  Queen  Ma- 
tilda on  the  famous  Bayeaux  tapestry; 
and  one  of  the  jewels  in  the  British 
crown  was  said  to  have  fallen  from  its 
tail.  It  created  a  great  sensation  when 
it  came  in  1456,  three  years  after  the 
fall  of  Constantinople,  when  the  Turks 
were  trying  to  push  their  conquests 
farther  west.  Prayers  were  issued  by 
the  Church  for  protection  against  its 
malice,  and  the  pope  is  even  said  to 
have  excommunicated  it!  The  next 
three  appearances,  however,  were  more 
famous  than  all  that  had  gone  before; 
for  they  were  the  means  of  astronomers 
discovering  the  real  truth  in  regard  to 
these  wanderers  of  the  heavens. 

— Zion's  Herald. 


"In  the  last  fifty  years  the  expenses 
of  an  American  household  have  in- 
creased two,  three  and  four  times. 
What  were  once  considered  rare  lux- 
uries are  now  common  necessities." 


"  I'd  like  to  be  an  iditor.  They'senawthin' 
so  hard  as  mindin'  ye'er  own  business;  an 
iditor  never  has  to  do  that." — Mr.  Dooley. 


A  Group  of  Meat  Substitutes 


Seasonable  Recipes 

By  Janet   M.  Hill 


IX  all  recipes  where  flour  is  used,  unless  otherwise  stated,  the  flour  is  measured  after 
sifting  once.  When  flour  is  measured  by  cups,  the  cup  is  filled  with  a  spoon,  and  a  level 
cupful  is  meant.  A  tablespoonful  or  a  teaspoonful  of  any  designated  material  is  a  level 
spoonful  of  such  material. 


Emergency  Soup 

COOK  half  a  cup,  each,  of  carrot 
and  celery  cubes  (a  table- 
spoonful  of  celery  seed  may  be 
substituted  for  the  fresh  celery)  and 
one  onion,  cut  in  slices,  in  one-fourth 
a  cup  of  butter,  or  fat  from  the  top  of 
soup  stock,  ten  minutes.  Add  one  cup 
of  potato  cubes,  boiled  five  minutes, 
rinsed  in  cold  water  and  drained,  and 
four  cups  of  water,  and  let  cook  one 
hour ;  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley  and  salt  and  pepper  as  needed. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs;  add  half  a 
cup  of  cream  and  stir  into  the  hot  soup. 
Serve  very  hot.  Strain  out  the  vege- 
tables or  leave  them  in  as  desired. 
There  should  be  one  quart  of  soup.  If 
reduced  by  cooking  add  milk  or  water 
to  make  that  quantity. 


Cream-of-String  Bean  Soup 
Chop  or  pound  cold,  cooked  string 
beans,  then  press  through  a  sieve.  A 
gravy  strainer  set  into  one  part  of  a 
double  boiler  and  a  wooden  pestle  are 
needed  for  this  process.  Between  one 
and  two  cups  of  puree  are  needed  for 
a  soup  to  serve  six  or  seven  people. 
Let  one  quart  of  milk  scald  with  three 
slices  of  onion  and  three  branches  of 
parsley.  Melt  one-fourth  a  cup  of 
butter;  in  it  cook  one-fourth  a  cup  of 
fiour,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  paprika ;  add  the  puree 
and  stir  until  boiling.  When  ready  to 
serve  strain  the  milk  over  the  puree, 
mix  thoroughly  and  serve  at  once. 
Other  vegetables,  as  asparagus,  peas 
tomatoes,  spinach,  onions,  etc..  ma\ 
be  substituted  for  the  a%|a>iiT^iiiy 


25 


nav  / 


26 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Black  Bean  Soup 

Let  one  pint  of  black  or  dark  red 
kidney  beans  soak  overnight;  drain, 
wash  in  cold  water  and  rinse  and  drain 


the  whole  to  the  soup  kettle  and  let  sim- 
mer fifteen  minutes.  Serve  a  slice  of 
lemon  and  a  slice  of  "hard-cooked" 
egg  in  each  plate  of  soup.  Pass  crou- 
tons with  the  soup. 


Cream-of-String  Bean  Soup  with  Croutons 


again.  Set  to  cook  in  two  quarts  of  cold 
water.  Slice  an  onion  and  let  cook  in 
one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter. 
Add  to  the  beans  with  two  parsley 
branches  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
celery  seed,  tied  in  a  bit  of  muslin.  Let 
simmer  until  the  beans  are  soft,  adding 
hot  water  as  needed  to  keep  the  quan- 
tity the  same  as  in  the  beginning. 
Press  the  beans  through  a  sieve;  add 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  one-half  a 
teaspoonful  of  paprika,  one-fourth  a 
teaspoonful  of  curry  powder  and  a  cup 
of  tomato  puree,  if  at  hand.  Heat  the 
soup  to  the  boiling  point.  Beat  one- 
fourth  a  cup  of  butter  to  a  cream; 
gradually  beat  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour,  dilute  with  a  little  of  the  hot 
soup,    stir   until    smooth,    then    return 


Simple  Fish  Loaf 

Purchase  a  fresh  codfish  or  haddock 
with  the  head  left  on.  Remove  the 
head,  cut  down  the  full  length  of  the 
fish,  on  the  side  opposite  the  opening  of 
the  fish,  on  each  side  of  the  fin  bones 
and  pull  out  this  narrow  strip.  Loosen 
the  skin  at  the  head  end  of  the  fish, 
then  pull  it  from  the  fish,  first  on  one 
side  and  then  on  the  other.  With  a 
knife  and  the  fingers  push  and  cut  the 
flesh  from  the  large  bone,  first  on  one 
side  and  then  on  the  other.  In  the  ab- 
sence of  a  "fish  sheet,"  flatten  the 
edges  of  the  cover  of  a  tin  cracker  box ; 
set  this  in  a  baking  pan  and  on  it  dispose 
about  three  thin  slices  of  fat  salt  pork. 
On  the  pork  dispose  a  piece  of  the  fish 


Simple  Fish  Loaf 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


27 


to  make  a  layer  of  fish  suitable  for 
serving.  Mix  one  cup  of  soft,  fine 
bread  crumbs,  a  teaspoonful  of  dried 
sweet  basil,  crushed  fine,  one-fourth  a 
teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt  and  pepper 
and  one-fourth  a  cup 
of  melted  butter,  ba- 
con or  salt  pork  fat ; 
spread  the  crumbs 
over  the  fish,  first 
sprinkling  it  lightly 
with  salt  and  pepper. 
Cover  the  crumbs 
with  the  other  piece 
of  fish,  trimming  and 
setting  in  place  as 
is  needed  to  make  a 
compact  loaf.  Sprin- 
kle with  salt  and  pepper.  Dispose 
three  or  four  thin  slices  of  salt  pork 
above  and  set  to  cook  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Reduce  the  heat  as  soon  as  the 
fish  is  seared  over  a  little  and  let  cook 
slowly  about  half  an  hour.  A  few 
minutes  before  the  fish  is  cooked,  re- 
move the  pork  from  the  top,  cover  the 
fish  with  half  a  cup  of  cracker  crumbs, 
mixed  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  butter,  and  set  into  the  oven, 
to  brown  the  crumbs.  Serve  with 
drawn  butter  sauce,  to  which  a  chopped 
"hard-cooked"  egg  or  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  capers  may  be  added.  Baste 
the  fish  four  or  five  times  during  the 
cookinsf. 


Chowder  from  Remnants  of 
Fish  Loaf 

Put  the  head,  the  bones,  broken  in 
pieces,  and  all  the  remnants  of  the  fish 


G-XOCCHI  A   LA   ROMAIXE 

in  a  saucepan.  Cover  with  cold  water 
and  let  simmer  an  hour  or  more.  Strain 
off  the  liquid ;  add  to  it  any  good  pieces 
of  fish  that  may  be  found  in  the  sauce- 
pan. Pour  boiling  water  over  a  pint  of 
pared-and-sliced  potatoes ;  let  boil  three 
or  four  minutes ,  drain ,  rinse  in  cold  water 
and  drain  again.  Heat  the  fish  broth  to 
the  boiling  point;  add  the  sliced  pota- 
toes, the  pulp  scraped  from  an  onion  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  let  cook  until 
the  potato  is  tender.  Add  any  rem- 
nants of  the  fish  loaf,  half  a  cup  of  cream, 
one  cup  of  milk,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter  and  salt  and  pepper  as  needed. 
If  the  water  has  been  much  reduced  by 
cooking:,  more  milk  mav  be  needed. 


Egg  Timbales  with  Asparagus 


28 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Gnocchi  a  la  Romaine 

Mix  one-fourth  a  cup,  each,  of  corn- 
starch and  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful, 
each,  of  salt  and  paprika  to  a  thin  paste 
with  milk.  Put  the  rest  of  a  pint  of 
milk  over  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler. 
When  the  milk  is  scalded,  stir  in  the 
paste,  and  stir  and  cook  until  the  mix- 
ture is  smooth  and  thick;  cover  and 
let  cook  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 
Add  half  a  cup  or  more  of  grated  cheese, 
one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter,  beaten  to  a 
cream  and  mixed  with  the  beaten  yolks 
of  two  eggs.  Stir  until  the  cheese  is 
melted  and  the  eggs  are  cooked,  then 
turn  into  a  buttered  shallow  dish,  to 
make  a  paste  half  an  inch  thick.  When 


drops  of  onion  juice,  and  one  cup  and 
a  half  of  rich  milk.  Mix  thoroughly, 
and  pour  into  well-buttered  timbale 
molds.  Cook,  set  on  folds  of  paper, 
surrounded  by  hot  water,  until  the 
centers  are  firm.  Turn  from  the  molds 
upon  a  hot  platter,  and  surround  with 
cooked  asparagus  or  peas  or  with 
tomato  or  bread  sauce.  Season  the 
asparagus,  cut  in  short  pieces,  or  the 
peas  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter,  or 
stir  into  a  cup  and  a  half  of  cream  sauce. 

Bread  Sauce 

Put  half  a  cup  of  fine  bread  crumbs, 
from  the  center  of  a  stale  loaf,  a  peeled 
onion  into  which  six  cloves  have  been 
pushed,    half   a   teaspoonful,    each,    of 


Rice  Croquettes,  Cheese  Sauce,    Tomato-axd-Lettuce  Salad 


cold  cut  in  rounds  with  a  biscuit  cutter. 
Put  the  rounds  in  a  buttered  earthen 
dish,  sprinkle  with  grated  cheese,  set 
other  rounds  above  the  first  and  sprinkle 
generously  with  cheese.  Set  the  dish 
into  the  oven,  to  melt  the  cheese  and 
reheat  the  mixture.  Serve  very  hot 
with  bread  in  some  form  and  a  salad  or 
cooked  fruit. 

Egg  Timbales 

Beat  six  eggs,  without  separating 
the  whites  and  yolks.  Add  a  scant 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  dash  of  pepper,  a 
teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  twenty 


salt  and  paprika,  and  one  pint  of  milk 
over  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler.  Cover, 
and  let  cook  about  one  hour.  Remove 
the  onion  and  cloves.  Add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter  and  beat  thor- 
oughly. Then  pour  over  the  timbales. 
Half  a  cup  of  coarse  bread  crumbs 
(center  of  loaf),  browned  in  three  or 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  made  hot 
in  a  frying-pan,  may  be  sprinkled  over 
the  whole. 

Red  Kidney  Beans,  Mexican  Style 

Let  a  cup  of  dark,  maroon  colored 
kidne}'  beans  soak  over  night  in  plenty 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


29 


of  cold  water.  Set  to  cook  in  fresh 
water  and  let  simmer  several  hours  or 
until  nearly  tender,  letting  the  water, 
at  the  last,  evaporate  till  but  a  few 
spoonfuls  are  left.  Chop  fine  a  green 
or  red  pepper  or  let 
a  pepper  simmer  in 
a  little  water  until 
tender,  then  scrape 
the  pulp  from  the 
thin  outer  skin.  To 
the  chopped  pepper 
or  the  pepper  pulp 
add  the  pulp  scraped 
from  an  onion  and 
two  tablespoonfuls 
of  chopped  parsley; 
let  these  cook  in  two 
tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  butter  until  softened  and  }-el- 
lowed;  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one  cup  of  tomato  puree,  and,  when 
boiling,  stir  in  the  beans.  Let  cook  un- 
til the  tomato  is  evaporated  and  the 
beans  are  soft  throughout.  Finish 
with  two  more  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
in  little  bits.  Surround  with  triangles 
of  bread,  buttered  and  browned  in 
the  oven.  If  desired  garnish  with 
a  hard-cooked  egg,  cut  in  eighths, 
lengthwise. 


Lima-and-Black  Bean  Salad 

Let  one  cup  each  of  Lima  and  black 
beans  soak  overnight,  separately,  in 
cold  water;  drain,  wash  in  cold  water. 


Red  Kidney  Beaxs,  Mexican  Style 


drain  and  set  to  cook  in  cold  water, 
After  boiling  begins,  replenish  Avith 
boiHng  water  as  needed  and  let  cook 
until  tender.  Season  with  salt  when 
about  three-fourths  cooked.  When 
cold  season  separately  with  oil,  vinegar, 
onion  juice,  paprika,  chopped  parsley 
and  about  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of 
mustard  or  curry  powder.  Let  stand 
until  well  seasoned.  Serve  in  a  bowl 
lined  with  lettuce  hearts.  Dispose  the 
dark  beans  in  the  center  and  the  lie^ht 


Lima-axd-Black  Bean  Salad 


30 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


beans  at  the  ends.  Garnish  with  quar- 
ters or  sHces  of  tomato  or  with  pickled 
beets. 

Plain  Rice  Croquettes,  Cheese  Sauce 

Blanch  one  cup  of  rice  (by  boiling 
and  rinsing)  as  in  the  preceding  recipe. 
Add  four  cups  of  milk  and  three-fourths 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  let  cook  until 
the  rice  is  tender  and  the  milk  absorbed. 
Have  ready  a  cup  or  more  of  sifted 
bread  crumbs,  from  the  center  of  a  loaf 
of  bread  that  has  been  baked  twenty- 
four  hours;  also  an  egg  beaten  w4th 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  milk.  Take 
the   rice    in    rounding    tablespoonfuls, 


Risotto 

(Practical  Cooking  and  Serving) 

Put  one  cup  of  rice  over  the  fire  in  a 
quart  of  cold  water.  Heat  quickly  to 
the  boiling  point  and  let  boil  rapidly 
two  or  three  minutes.  Drain,  rinse  in 
cold  water  and  drain  again.  Melt  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  frying  pan, 
turn  in  the  rice,  add  an  onion  cut  in 
halves,  stir  and  cook  until  the  butter 
is  absorbed,  then  add  one  cup  of  to- 
mato pulp  (cooked  tomato  pressed 
through  a  sieve) ,  one  teaspoonful  and  a 
half  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pap- 
rika  and   three   cups   of   water    (when 


Asparagus  Shortcake 


form  into  cylinder  or  triangle  shapes, 
roll  in  the  crumbs,  then  pour  over  the 
egg  to  cover  completely  and  again  roll 
in  the  crumbs.  Fry  in  deep  fat  and 
drain  on  soft  paper.  Serve  with  cheese 
sauce  and  tomato-and-lettuce  salad. 

Cheese  Sauce 
Make  a  cup  of  white  sauce  with  two 
tablespoonfuls,  each,  of  butter  and 
flour,  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful,  each, 
of  salt  and  pepper  and  one  cup  of 
milk,  then  stir  in  from  one -half  to  a 
whole  cup  of  grated  cheese  with  salt 
and  pepper  as  needed. 


convenient  broth  made  from  remnants 
of  meat  is  better).  Let  cook  in  a 
double  boiler  or  in  a  covered  saucepan 
on  an  asbestos  mat  until  the  liquid  is 
absorbed  and  the  rice  is  tender.  Add 
half  a  cup  or  more  of  grated  cheese; 
lift  the  rice  with  two  silver  forks,  to  mix 
the  cheese  through  it.  Serve  very  hot. 
This  mixture  may  be  shaped  and  fried 
as  croquettes. 

Savory  Rice  Croquettes 

Blanch  and  cook  the  rice  according 
to  directions  given  under  "Risotto." 
Prepare  a  cup  of  tomato   sauce,   first 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


31 


cooking  a  slice,  each,  of  onion  and 
green  pepper,  chopped  fine,  in  the  butter 
of  which  the  sauce  is  to  be  made,  then 
add  the  flour  and  cup  of  tomato  puree. 
Into  the  sauce  stir 
all  the  rice  the  sauce 
will  take  up  readily. 
Turn  the  mixture 
upon  a  buttered 
plate.  When  cold 
shape,  fry  and  serve 
with  cheese  sauce. 

Asparagus 
Shortcake 

This  dish  fur- 
nishes a  good  way 
of  using  to  advantage 
stalks  of  asparagus 
which,  on  account  of  the  lack  of  uni- 
formity in  length,  are  not  suitable  to 
tie  in  bunches.  Cut  the  asparagus  in 
pieces  nearly  one  inch  in  length,  cook 
in  boiling  salted  water  until  tender. 
For  a  pint  of  cooked  asparagus  make 
a  cup  and  a  half  of  drawn  butter  or 
cream  sauce,  using  the  water  in  which 
the  asparagus  was  cooked  as  part  of  the 
liquid  and  finishing  with  an  extra 
tablespoonful  or  two  of  butter.  Sift 
together,  three  times,  two  cups  of  sifted 
pastry  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  two  slightly  rounding  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  baking  powder.  With  the  tips  of 
the  fingers  work  in  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  shortening,  then  mix  with  milk 


or  water  to  a  soft  dough.  Spread  the 
dough  in  two  round  shallow  pans. 
Bake  in  a  quick  oven.  Stir  the  aspara- 
gus into  the  sauce.     Butter  one  of  the 


Vanilla  Ice  Cream,  Chocolate  Sauce 


cakes,  pour  part  of  the  hot  asparagus 
over  it,  and  set  the  secpnd  cake  af)ove 
the  first.  Spread  with  butter,  and  pour 
over  the  rest  of  the  asparagus.  Finish 
with  the  sifted  yolk  of.  a  "hard-cooked  " 
egg  and  the  white,  cut  in  quarters. 

Floradora  Buns 

Cool  a  cup  of  scaldea  milk  to  a  luke- 
warm temperature.  Add  a  cake  of 
compressed  yeast,  softened  in  one- 
fourth  a  cup  of  water,  then  stir  in  about 
two  cups  of  bread  flour,  or  enough  to 
make  a  batter;  beat  until  smooth,  cover 
and  set  aside  to  become  very  light  and 
full  of  bubbles.  Add  half  a  cup  of 
cocoanut,  half  a  cup  of   sliced  citron. 


Floradora  Buns 


32 


THE    BOSTUX    COOKIXG-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  half  a  cup  of 
sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one- 
third  a  cup  of  melted  shortening  and 
enough  flour  to  make  a  dough.  Knead 
until  elastic;  cover  and  set  aside  until 
doubled  in  bulk.  Shape  into  balls 
weighing  about  two  ounces  each ;  cover 
closely  w^ith  pan  or  bowl,  to  avoid  the 
formation  of  a  crust.  Form  into  oval 
shapes.  Set  close  together  in  baking 
pans.  When  light  bake  about  twenty- 
five  minutes.  Brush  over  with  white 
of  egg,  sprinkle  with  sliced  almonds  and 
granulated,  or,  better  still,  coffee  A, 
sugar.  Return  to  the  oven  to  set 
the  glaze.  The  nuts,  especially  the 
almonds,  which  contain  considerable 
proteid,  make  these  buns  valuable  in 
a  dietary  from  which  meat  is  excluded. 

Creamed  Macaroni  au  Gratin 
Boil  three-fourths  a  cup  of  macaroni, 
broken  in  pieces  an  inch  in  length,  in 
boiling  salted  water,  until  tender ;  drain, 
rinse   in  cold   water   and   drain    again. 
Make  a  sauce    of  two   table- 
spoonfuls,  each,  of  butter  and 
flour,  one-fourth  a   teaspoon- 
ful. each,  of  salt  and  pepper 
and  a  cup  of  rich  milk.      Mix 
the     macaroni    through     the 
sauce,  mixing  in,  at  the  same 
time,  half  a  cup  or  more    of 
grated   cheese.     Turn   into  a 
shallow  dish,  cover  with  half 
a    cup    of     cracker    crumbs, 
mixed  with  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  melted  butter,  and  let 
brown  in  the  oven. 


Sa 


vorv 


M 


acaroni 


Cook  the  macaroni  in  the  usual  man- 
ner. Cook  half  an  onion,  cut  in  slices, 
and  half  a  green  or  red  pepper,  in  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  until  lightly 
browned;  add  about  a  cup  and  a  half 
of  tomato  and  let  simmer  until  well 
reduced.  Press  through  a  sieve. 
There  should  be  a  generous  cup  of 
the  pulp.  Make  a  sauce  of  two 
tablespoonfuls,  each,  of  butter  and 
flour,  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  the  prepared  tomato;  add 
half  a  cup  or  more  of  grated  cheese. 
When  the  cheese  is  melted,  pour  the 
sauce  over  the  cooked  macaroni  and 
lift  with  two  forks,  to  mix  together 
thoroughly.  Let  stand  over  hot  water 
to  become  very  hot.  Sprinkle  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  fine-chopped  parsley. 
When  convenient  fine-chopped  or 
diced  ham  may  be  mixed  through  the 
dish  or  broth  may  replace  a  part 
of  the  tomato  puree. 


-^2-- 


Macaroni  a  la  Reine 
Cook  and  blanch  three- 
fourths  a  cup  of  macaroni, 
broken  in  inch  lengths. 
Scald  one  cup  of  rich 
cream;  stir  into  it  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
and  one-fourth  a  pound 
of  cheese  grated  or  cut 
into  exceedingly  thin 
slices.  When  smooth  add 
one-fourth  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt  and    half    a    tea- 


CoFFEE  Percolator,  Xew  Style 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


33 


spoonful  of  paprika  and  pour  it  over 
the  macaroni,  which  has  been  turned 
into  a  shallow  baking  dish.  Have 
ready  a  scant  cup  of  three-eighths  an 
inch  cubes  of  bread  fried  delicately  in 
a  Httle  butter  or  olive  oil.  Sprinkle 
these  over  the  macaroni.  Ser^^e  very 
hot. 

Succotash 
Let  dried  Lima  or  kidney  beans  soak 
in  cold  water  overnight;  drain,  wash  in 
fresh  water,  rinse  and  drain  again. 
Cover  with  cold  water  and  let  simmer 
until  tender  (five  hours  or  longer). 
Add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  can  of 
komlet  or  canned  com,  one-fourth 
a  cup  of  butter  and  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  black  pepper,  also  more  salt  if 
needed.  A  little  strained  tomato  puree, 
also  onion  juice  and  chopped  peppers, 
are  additions  relished  by  many. 

Chou  Paste 

Set  half  a  cup  of  butter  and  one  cup 
of  boiling  water  over  the  fire;  when 
again  boiling  stir  in  one  cup  of  sifted 
pastry  flour.  Stir  and  cook  until  the 
mixture  separates  from  the  sides  of  the 
saucepan.  Turn  into  a  bowd  and  break 
in  three  eggs,  one  after  another,  beat- 
ing in  each  egg  smoothly  before  the 
next  is  added.  Use  as  be^w.^shaping 
with  bag  and  star  tube. 

Strawberry  Tart 

{See  page  7) 
Cut  out  a  round  of  pastry^the  size 
of  an  ordinary  pie  plate.  Use  plain, 
flaky  or  puff  paste.  Prick  the  paste 
with  a  fork,  that  it  may  puff  evenly 
in  baking.  Set  it  on  a  tin  baking 
sheet  and  pipe  a  rim  of  chou  paste  on 
the  edge.  Also  pipe  small  (about  an 
inch  in  diameter)  rounds  of  chou  paste 
on  another  baking  sheet.  Bake  the 
large  round  about  twenty-five  minutes, 
the  small  cakes  about  fifteen  minutes. 
When  done  they  w411  feel  light,  if  taken 
up  in  the  hand.  Have  ready  two  or 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  cooked 


to  caramel;  dip  the  base  of  the  small 
rounds  in  the  caramel  and  set  them 
in  order  upon  the  rim  of  paste.  Have 
ready  a  cup  of  English  cream  and  a 
basket  of  strawberries,  hulled,  cut  in 
halves  and  mixed  with  sugar  as  needed. 
Turn  the  partially  cooled  cream  into 
the  pastry  case  and  dispose  the  straw- 
berries above.  Serve  at  once  or  at 
pleasure. 

English  Cream 
Scald  one  cup  of  milk.  Sift  together, 
several  times  one-fourth  a  cup,  each, 
of  pastry  flour  and  sugar  and  one- 
fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  then  stir 
into  the  hot  milk.  Stir  and  cook  until 
the  mixture  thickens,  then  cover  and 
let  cook  ten  minutes.  Beat  one  whole 
egg  or  two  yolks;  add  a  scant  fourth 
a  cup  of  sugar  and  beat  again,  then 
stir  into  the  hot  mixture ;  let  cook  until 
the  egg  is  set.  When  cooled  a  little 
add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  ex- 
tract and  use  as  indicated  above. 

Strawberries,  Early  June  Stvle 
{See  page  7) 

Cut  choice  strawberries  in  halves; 
squeeze  over  them  a  httle  orange 
juice  and  mix  with  sugar  to  sweeten; 
let  stand  in  a  cool  place  to  become 
chilled.  Cook  one  quart  of  water  and 
one  pint  of  sugar  twenty  minutes ;  add 
a  scant  teaspoonful  of  gelatine  softened 
in  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cold 
water,  strain  and  when  cold  add  one 
pint  of  orange  juice  and  the  juice  of 
one  large  lemon.  Freeze  as  usual. 
Put  a  spoonful  of  the  sherbet  in  a  glass 
cup  or  saucer  (orange  shells  may  also 
be  used)  and  surround  with  some  of 
the  prepared  berries. 

Strawberry-and-Pineapple  Fancy 

{See  page  7) 
Mix  strawberries,  cut  in  halves,  and 
pineapple  (fresh  or  canned)  in  small 
pieces  with  sugar  to  sweeten.  Dispose 
in  the  center  of  a  dish,  and  surround 
with  half  slices  of  choice  pineapple. 


34 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Frozen  Apricots,  City  Fashion 

Drain  the  syrup  from  a  can  of  apri- 
cots ;  add  a  cup  of  sugar  and  the  rind  of 
an  orange,  cut  in  quarters;  let  boil  ten 
minutes  and  remove  the  rind;  add  one 
quart  of  water,  one  cup  and  a  half  of 
sugar,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  curacoa 
and  the  pulp  scraped  from  the  skins  of 
the  apricots  and  cut  in  bits.  Let 
stand  some  hours,  overnight  if  con- 
venient, then  freeze  as  usual.  This 
quantity  will  make  one  quart  of  frozen 
mixture. 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream,  Chocolate  Sauce 

Let  one  quart  of  milk,  one  cup  of 
double  cream,  one  cup  of  sugar  be 
heated  to  betw^een  90°  and  100°  Fahr. 
Stir  in  one  Junket  tablet,  crushed  and 
dissolved  in  a  tablespoonful  of  cold 
water.  Keep  the  mixture  in  a  warm 
(100°  Fahr.)  place  until  it  jellies,  then 
let  cool  and  freeze.  "When  ready  to 
serve  pour  over  a  hot  chocolate  sauce. 
Both  ice  cream  and  sauce  are  nutri- 
tious. 

Chocolate  Sauce 

Melt  two  squares  of  chocolate  over 
boiling  water;  add  one-fourth  a  cup  of 
sugar' and  one-fourth  a  cup  of  boiling 
water  and  stir  and  cook  until  perfectly 
smooth  and  boiling.  Sift  together, 
several  times,  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour  and  half  a  cup  of  granulated  sugar ; 
pour  on  one-fourth  a  cup  of  boihng 
water  and  when  smooth  stir  into  the 
chocolate  mixture.  Let  simmer  ten 
minutes,  stirring  as  needed.  Flavor' 
with  a  tea  spoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 

Prune  Charlotte  Russe 

Soften  half  a  package  of  gelatine  in 
half  a  cup  of  cold  water.  Cut  enough 
cooked  prunes  in  pieces  to  fill  a  cup; 
add  a  cup  of  prune  juice,  the  juice  of 
one  lemon,  three-fourths  a  cup  of  sugar, 
and,  if  desired,  three  or  four  tablespoon- 
fuls of  sherry  wine;  add  the  softened 
gelatine,  dissolved  by  setting  the  cup 


containing  it  in  hot  water.  Set  the 
mixture  into  a  dish  of  ice  water  and 
stir  until  it  begins  to  thicken,  then  fold 
in  one  cup  and  a  half  of  double  cream, 
beaten  firm.  Turn  into  a  mold.  Serve, 
turned  from  the  mold,  either  with  or 
without  whipped  cream.  For  a  change 
substitute  orange  or  grape-fruit  marma- 
lade for  a  part  of  the  prunes. 

Delicate  Pudding  (Miss  Wilbur) 
To  a  cup  of  sugar  add  one  cup  of  hot 
water  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons. 
Stir  three  level  tablespoonfuls  of  corn- 
starch with  enough  cold  water  to  pour 
and  stir  into  the  first  mixture,  heated 
to  the  boiling  point.  Stir  till  smooth, 
then  let  cook  fifteen  minutes.  Fold  in 
the  whites  of  three  eggs,  beaten  dry, 
and  turn  into  a  mold.  Serve  cold  with 
a  custard  made  of  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  one-fourth  a 
leaspoonful  of  salt  and  two  cups  of 
milk.  Flavor  with  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  vanilla  extract. 

Rye-Meal  Biscuit 

To  one  pint  of  milk,  scalded  and 
cooled,  add  half  or  a  whole  cake  of 
compressed  yeast,  softened  in  half  a 
cup  of  lukewarm  milk  or  water,  and 
three  cups  of  sifted  bread  flour.  Beat 
very  thoroughly  and  for  several  min- 
utes, then  cover  and  set  aside  to  be- 
come light.  When  light  add  one- third 
a  cup  of  olive  oil,  melted  butter,  or 
drippings,  one-third  a  cup  of  molasses, 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  two  cups 
and  one-half  of  sifted  rye  meal.  Beat 
thoroughly  and  for  several  minutes, 
and  set  aside,  to  become  light,  then 
roll  into  small  balls  and  dispose  in  a 
buttered  pan.  W^hen  Hght  and  puffy, 
bake  about  twenty-five  minutes.  The 
recipe  makes  two  and  a  half  dozen  of 
small  biscuit.  The  tops  of  the  bis- 
cuits may  be  glazed  by  brushing  them 
over  with  a  teaspoonful  of  cornstarch, 
diluted,  and  cooked  in  a  cup  of  boiHng 
water,  or  with  white  of  egg  for  a  crisp 
exterior. 


Menus  for  a  Week  in  June  Without  Meat 

''Cereals  and  civilization  have  ever  gone  hand  in  hand.    As  nations  have  advanced  in  culture 
and  importance,  their  dependence  upon  corn  plants  has  been  not  less  but  greater." — Sargent. 


Breakfast 

Strawberries.     Yeast  Rolls 

Eggs  Cooked  in  Shell 

Fried  Rice,  Sugar.     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Clam  Broth 

Egg  Timbales,  Stewed  Asparagus 

Lettuce,  French  Dressing 

Graham  Rolls  and  Butter 

Strawberry  Shortcake 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Lettuce-Cream-Cheese  and  Pimento  Salad 

Bread  and  Butter 

Rhubarb  Baked  with  Raisins 

Cream  Sponge  Cake.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Strawberries,  Cereal,  Thin  Cream 

Scrambled  Eggs 

French  Fried  Potatoes 

Pop  Overs 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Potato  Soup,  Croutons 

Cheese  Souffle 

Spinach  Molded  in  Cups,  Sauce  Tartare 

Strawberry  Shortcake,  Cream 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Cream  Toast  with  Eggs 

Currant  Bims 

Stewed  Prunes.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Hot  Cereal,  Bananas,  Thin  Cream 

Asparagus  Omelet 

Corn-Meal  Muffins 

Cocoa.     Coft'ee 

Dinner 

Cream-of-Tomato  Soup 

Stewed  Kidney  Beans.     Yeast  Rolls 

Lettuce  Salad,  Edam  Cheese 

Toasted  Crackers 

Cream  Puffs 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Boiled  Rice,  Cheese  Sauce 
Bread  and  Butter 
Strawberries.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Cereal,  Thin  Cream 

Codfish  Balls 

Sliced  Cucumbers 

Baking  Powder  Biscuit 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Asparagus  Timbale,  Cream  Sauce 
Lettuce  Salad,  Cheese  Balls  (fried) 
Cream-Puff  Cases,  Strawberry  Fillin< 
Half  Cups  of  Coffee  ' 

Supper 

Green  Peas 
Bread  and  Butter 
Canned  Fruit^ 
Tea 


Breakfast 

Cereal,  Thin  Cream 

Asparagus  on  Toast  with  Poached  Eggs 

Yeast  Rolls  (reheated) 

Strawberries.     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Cream-of- Asparagus  Soup 

Bermuda  Onions  Stuffed  with  Nuts 

Mashed  Potatoes 

Boiled  Spinach  with  Sliced  Eggs 

Rhubarb  Pie 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Fresh  Fish  or  Clam  Chowder,  Crackers 

Bread  and  Butter.     Cream  Cheese 

Dried  Peaches,  Stewed.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Cereal,  Thin  Cream 

Eggs  Cooked  in  the  Shell 

Spider  Com  Cake.     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Cream-of-Komlet  Soup  with  Kornlet 

Timbales.     Cold  Lima  Beans 

Lettuce  and  French  Dressing 

Graham  Bread  and  Butter 

Rice  Boiled  in  Milk,  Chocolate  Sauce 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Boiled  Asparagus,  Melted  Butter 

Yeast  Biscuit.     Orange  Cookies 

Rhubarb  Stewed  with  Sultana  Raisins 

Milk.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Strawberries,  Cereal, 

Thin  Cream 

Kornlet  Griddle  Cakes, 

Marmalade 

Cocoa.       Coffee 


Dinner 

Clam  Broth 

Asparagus-and-Egg 

Shortcake 

Lettuce,  French  Dressing 

Cookies 
Prune  Bavarian  Cream 
Half  Cups  of  Coffee 
35 


Supper 

Rice  Croquettes,  Cheese 

Sauce 

Bread  and  Butter 

Milk.     Stewed  Prunes 

Tea 


|Menus  for  a  Week  in  July  Without  Meat 

*'The  human  family  are  more  in  need  of  sound,  wholesome  advice  as  to  what  they  should  eat 
and  drink  than  ever  before.''  —  E.  G.  Fulton. 


Breakfast 

Cereal,  Top  Milk,     Red  Raspberries 
Flora dora  Buns 
Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Salmon,  Fresh,  Canned  or  Salted, 

Egg  Sauce 

New  Potatoes 

Peas.     Cucumbers 

Raspberry  Ice  Cream.      Sponge  Cake 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Stewed  Primes 

Cottage  Cheese 
Bread  and  Butter 
Tea  Chilled  on  Ice 


Breakfast 

Boiled  Rice 

Sliced  Bananas,  Thin  Cream 

Buttered  Salt  Codfish 

New  Potatoes,  Baked 

Graham  Bread,  Toasted.    Coffee.    Cocoa 

Dinner 

Emergency  Soup.     Cheese  Souffle 

Summer  Squash 

Cabbage  Salad  in  Beet  Cups 

Raspberry  Shortcake,  Cream 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Lima-and-Black  Bean  Salad 

Graham  Bread  and  Butter 

Berries.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Cereal,  Top  Milk 

Salmon-and-Potato  Cakes 

Cucumbers 

Rye  Meal  Muffins 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Cream -of -Green  Pea  Soup 

Risotto 

Baked  Indian  Pudding,  Whipped  Cream 

Half  Cups^of  Coffee 

Supper 

Succotash 

(Dried  Lima  Beans  and  Komlet) 

Baking  Powder  Biscuit 

Black  Raspberries.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Eggs  Poached  in  Cream  on  Toast 

Plain  Rice  Croquettes,  Maple  Syrup 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Black  Bean  Soup 

Nut  Loaf,  Tomato  Sauce 

Stringless  Beans 

Lettuce-and-Canned  Peach  Salad 

Rhubarb  Pie 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Egg  Timbales,  Bread  Sauce 

Stringless  Beans  (left  over) 

French  Dressing 

Baking  Powder  Biscuit.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Berries,  Top  Milk 

Scrambled  Eggs,  Reformed  Style 

Waffles,  Maple  Syrup 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Asparagus^  Shortcake  with  Eggs 

Gnocchi  a  la  Romain 

Lettuce,  French  Dressing 

Raspberry  Sherbet,  Whipped  Cream 

Macaroons 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Bread  and  Milk 

Chocolate  Eclairs 

Tea 


Breakfast 

Berries,  Top  Milk 

Cream  Toast 

Cinnamon  Buns 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Simple  Fresh  Fish  Loaf,  Egg  Sauce 

Beet  Greens 

Mashed  Potatoes  (old  potatoes) 

Green  Peas 

Raspberry  Tart 

Supper 

Hot  Peanut  Butter  Sandwiches 

Cold  Beet  Greens,  French  Dressing 

Berries.     Cookies 

Tea 


Breakfast 

Cereal,  Thin  Cream 

Green  Pea  Omelet 

Buttered  Toast 

Rye  Meal  Muffins 

Rhubarb  Marmalade 

Coffee 

Cocoa 


Dinner 

Cream-of-Potato  Soup 

Egg  Timbales, 

Green  Peas 

Kohl  Rabbi,  Hollandaise 

Sauce 

Grape  Juice  Parfait 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

36 


Supper 

Fresh  Fish  Chowder 

(left  over  fish) 
New  Beets,  Pickled 

Berries 
Bread  and  Butter 


Formal  Menus  for  June  Luncheons 

Colors:     Pink  and  Green       Flowers:     Sweet  Peas  with  Maidenhair  Ferns. 


Choice  Strawberries  with  Hulls  Retained 

Cream-of-Green  Pea  Soup,  Bread  Sticks 
Radishes.     Olives 

Halibut  Timbales  (forcemeat) ,  Shrimp  Sauce 

Light  Colored  Beets,  Stuffed  with  Chopped 

Cucumbers  and  Sprinkled  with  Chopped 

Chives,  French  Dressing 

(Served  in  Hearts  of  Lettuce) 

Chicken  en  Casserole.     Asparagus,  HoUan- 

daise  Sauce 

Plain  Rice  Croquettes, 

Pineapple  Sauce  Tinted  Pink 

Sultana  Roll,  Crushed  Strawberry  Sauc© 
Candied  Mint  Leaves.     Pink  Mints 

Coffee 


II 

Crushed  Pineapple  in  Glass  Cups, 

Sprinkled  with  Fine-Chopped  Pistacnio  Nuts 

and  Maraschino  Cherries 

Consomm^  with  Flageolet 

Creamed  Shrimps  in  Swedish  Timbale  Cases 
(Edge  of  cases  dipped  in  white  of  egg,  then 
in  fine-chopped  parsley) 
Cucumber-and-Radish  Salad 
(Slice  cucumbers  and  radishes.     Do  not  re- 
move pink  skin  from  radishes) 
Lamb  Chops,  Maintenon 
Mint  Jelly.     Green  Peas 

Cream  Cheese  Balls  Rolled  in  Fine-Chopped 

Parsley 

Bar-le-duc.     Crackers 

Coffee 


Luncheon  Without  Meat 


I 


Unhulled  Strawberries,  Powdered  Sugar 

Cream-of-Spinach  Soup 

Plain  Rice  Croquettes,  Cheese  Sauce 

Lettuce-and-Tomato  Salad, 

French  Dressing 

Strawberry  Ice  Cream 

Angel  Cake 

Coffee 


Strawberry  Cocktail 

Clam  Broth 

Egg  Timbales,  Bread  Sauce 
Salad  Rolls 

Lettuce-and- Asparagus  Cream  Glac^. 
French  Dressing 

Pineapple  Sherbet 

Macaroons 

Coffee 


III 

Fresh  Fish  Chowder 

Olives.     Pickles 

Cheese  Souffle 

Lettuce-and- Asparagus, 

French  Dressing 

Hot  Salad  Rolls 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream,  Crushed  Strawberries 
Coffee 


IV 

Unhulled  Strawberries,  Powdered  Sugar 

Cream-of- Asparagus  Soup,  Croutons 

Olives.     Salted  Nuts 

Gnocchi  k  la  Romain 

Lettuce-and-Stringless  Bean  Salad, 

French  Dressing 

Tiny  Baking  Powder  Biscuit 

Individual  Strawberry  Tarts 
Coffee 


V 

Tomato  Bouillon 

Deviled  Crab  Meat  in  Shells 

Olives.     Gherkins 

Pop  Overs 


Red  Raspberry  Shortcake,  Whipped  Cream 
Coffee 


37 


Menus  for  June  Weddings 


Wedding  Breakfast 


II 


Strawberries,  French  Fashion 

Jellied  Bouillon 

Chicken  Croquettes,  Green  Peas 

Lobster  or  Fresh  Salmon  Salad  , 

Sandwiches.     Rolls 

Coffee.     Wedding  Cake 

Strawberry-and-Pineapple  Ice  Cream 

(Molded  together) 

Fruit  Punch 


Strawberries,  French  Fashion 

Jelhed  Bouillon 

Egg  Timbales,  Bread  Sauce 

Lettuce-and- Asparagus  Cream  Glace 

Salad  Rolls 

Coffee 

Bride's  Loaf 

'Pineapple  Sherbet 


III 

Strawberry  Cocktail 

Lobster  Newburg  in  Ramekins 

Cucumbers,  French  Dressing 

Breaded  Sweetbreads, Fresh  Mushroom  Sauce 

Lettuce-and-Asparagus  Cream  Glace 

Salad  Rolls.    Coffee 

Bride's  Loaf 

Assorted  Cakes 

Pistachio  Ice  Cream,  Claret  Sauce 


For  Afternoon  and  Evening  Weddings 


Chicken  in  Aspic  Jelly 

Bread-and-Lettuce  Sandwiches 

Bride's  Cake 

Strawberry  Ice  Cream 

Claret  Lemonade 


III 

Bread,  Grated  Cheese,  Sliced  Nuts, 

Butter  Sandwiches 

(X  lb,,  each,  except  bread,  creamed 

together  and  seasoned) 

Coffee 

Chicken  or  Salmon  Salad 

Buttered  Rolls.     Olives 

Assorted  Cake 

Wedding  Cake  in  Boxes 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream,  Crushed  Strawberries 

Lemonade 


II 

Cold  Boiled  Tongue,  Sliced  Thin 

Buttered  Rolls.     OHves.     Salted  Nuts 

Assorted  Cake 

Wedding  Cake  in  Boxes 

Strawberry  Bombe  Glace 

Pineapple  Lemonade 


IV 

Chicken  or  Lobster  Salad 

Tiny  Baking  Powder  Biscuit 

OHves.     Salted  Nuts 

Coffee 

Bride's  Loaf 

Fruit  Punch 


V 

Bride's  Cake 
Fruit  Punch  (largely  Strawberry  Juice) 


VI 

Bride's  Cake 

Strawberry  Ice  Cream 

Lemonade 


38 


Meat   Substitutes 


Bv    lanet  M.   Hill 


THIS  present  time  of  high  prices 
for  food-stuffs  should  not  pass 
without  leaving  us  better  quaH- 
fied  to  cope  with  a  return  of  the  same 
conditions.  If  we  learn  our  lesson  well, 
we  shall  know  how  to  take  our  old- 
time  supply  of  food  and  "make  it  go 
farther."  For  the  truth  is,  women  in 
general  do  not  get  the  full  value  of  the 
money  expended  for  food.  With  too 
many  of  us  the  A,  B,  C  of  economy  is 
3^et  to  be  learned,  and,  as  we  have 
said  before  in  these  pages,  economy 
does  not  consist  in  going  without,  but 
in  obtaining  the  greatest  value  possible 
out  of  what  we  buy.  This  means 
study  on  our  part.  And  a  little 
thought  is  what  too  many  of  us  seem 
to  be  afraid  of.  Instead  of  letting 
ourselves,  at  the  thought  of  meal- 
time, fall  into  a  state  of  chronic  mental 
flutter  that  utterly  incapacitates  us  for 
any  serious  work,  let  us  sit  down  in 
advance  and  calmly  plan  out  the 
meals  for  a  week.  It  is  impossible  to 
follow  out  with  exactness  any  printed 
set  of  menus,  but  these  are  suggestive 
and  helpful  in  working  out  our  own 
bills  of  fare. 

In  our  page  of  menus  without  meat 
the  flavor  of  many  of  the  dishes  could 
be  improved  by  the  judicious  use  of 
meat  extract  or  of  "second"  broth, 
broth  made  of  the  remnants  of  roasts, 
giblets  of  fowl,  flank  ends  of  chops  and 
steak,  etc.  Granted  that  we  un- 
doubtedly have,  in  the  past,  eaten  too 
much  meat,  there  is  no  reason  why 
we  should  fly  to  the  other  extreme  and 
eat  none  at  all.  Remember  that  a  cup 
of  good,  well-seasoned  broth  will  change 
entirely  the  character,  as  well  as  the 
taste,  of  all  vegetable  dishes  to  which 
it  is  added. 

The  main  substitutes  of  meat  are: 
milk,   cheese,   eggs,    fish   of   all   kinds, 


dried  beans,  peas,  lentils,  nuts  and 
grains.  These  may  be  presented  singly 
or  in  combination.  When  milk,  eggs 
or  cheese  is  combined  with  others  in 
the  group  a  most  substantial  dish 
results.  Remember  that  in  meats  of 
good  quality  fat  is  always  present, 
though  it  ma}'  not  be  conspicuous,  and 
the  fat  thus  eliminated  from  a  meat- 
less diet  must  be  made  up  in  cream, 
butter,  olive  or  other  form  of  vege- 
table oil. 

Asparagus  and  green  peas  are  not, 
like  dried  peas  and  beans,  meat  substi- 
tutes, but  their  flavor  is  grateful  to  us; 
combine  either  of  these  in  a  meal  with 
bread  or  rice  and  cheese  or  eggs 
(butter  in  small  quantity  will  be 
needed)  and  a  complete  meal  is 
assured. 

Asparagus  Cream  Glac6  is  given  in 
several  of  our  menus  for  formal  occa- 
sions; the  full  dish  calls  for  lettuce 
hearts  and  French  dressing.  The 
recipe  was  given  on  page  429  of  the 
April  number  of  this  magazine.  Noth- 
ing more  delicate  in  flavor  and  texture 
can  be  produced  for  a  salad.  The 
recipe  was  produced  for  these  pages, 
and,  while  the  feature  of  packing  in 
ice  and  salt  makes  the  dish  too  trouble- 
some for  general  or  frequent  use,  we' 
commend  it  for  occasional  service,  and 
most  especially  in  a  menu  where  the 
eHmination  of  meat  makes  some  form 
of  fat,  in  rather  generous  measure, 
advisable.  By  the  addition  of  three  or 
four  beaten  3'olks  of  eggs  to  the  puree 
(added  by  cooking  as  in  boiled  custard) , 
the  food  value  of  the  dish  is  enhanced 
and  it  may  become  the  chief  dish  of 
the  meal. 

In  the  "Egg  Timbales  -w^th  Aspara- 
gus" the  egg  and  milk  of  the  timbales 
insure  tissue-building  material  for  the 
meal;  if  still  more  of  the  prot'eid  cor* 


39 


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THE    BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


pound  be  ad\-isable  in  this  special  dish. 
stir  the  cooked  asparagus  into  a  cream 
sauce  and  finish  with  the  beaten  yolks 
of  two  eggs. 

It  is  yet  too  early  for  much  choice  in 
green  beans,  but  the  ripe  beans  of  last 
year  are  in  good  condition  for  many 
really  delectable  dishes,  and  only  these 
dried  beans  are  true  meat  substitutes. 
Any  variety  of  bean,  carefully  stewed 
and  as  carefully  seasoned,  will  be  found 
palatable,  satisfying  and  wholesome. 
For  seasoning,  salt  is  added  when  the 
cooking  is  half  completed;  pepper  aids 
in  their  digestion;  butter  or  cream 
supplies  the  fat  in  which  they  are 
lacking  and  adds  to  their  palatability. 
The  variety  of  pepper  is  a  feature  upon 
which  to  play.  Chilli-Colorado,  pap- 
rika or  black  pepper,  all  of  which  can 
be  purchased,  ground,  in  bottles,  are 
some  of  the  forms  to  be  secured  with- 
out labor;  green  or  red  peppers,  fresh 
from  the  garden  or  hothouse,  or  the 
chilli  peppers  or  pimentos,  which  are 
preserved  entire,  need  to  be  chopped 
and  softened  in  a  little  melted  butter 
before  they  are  added  to  the  cooked 
t-eans.  Onion  and  parsley  are  other 
flavorers  that  harmonize  with  beans. 
Indeed,  a  salad  made  of  beans  does 
not  reach  its  highest  estate  unless  the 
presence  of  onion  be  suspected.  To- 
matoes are  an  addition  that  we  have 
borrowed  from  Mexico  or,  farther  back, 
from  the  dark-eyed  Spaniard. 

Among  our  illustrations  will  be 
found  croqueues  with  cheese  sauce. 
Rice  croquettes,  though  easily  pre- 
pared, take  some  time,  and  practically 
the  same  dish  is  obtained  by  turning 
the  cooked  rice  into   a   shallow  dish. 


The  rice  when  cold  may  be  cut  into 
any  desired  shape.  Egged-and-crumbed 
it  may  be  fried  in  deep  fat,  or,  dipped 
in  flour,  it  may  be  sauted  in  a  small 
quantity  of  salt  pork  fat  or  butter. 
In  either  case  the  cheese  sauce  is 
needed  for  the  complete  dish;  though 
really  a  green  salad  of  some  sort  is  a 
requisite  to  many,  to  make  a  meal  of  full 
satisfaction. 

Milk  is  one  of  the  chief  meat  substi- 
tutes. There  are  so  many  ways  in 
which  to  present  this  almost  perfect 
food  that  choice  is  often  difficult. 
Junket  ice  cream  wlQ  always  be 
welcomed,  and  wiU  make  up  for  much 
of  the  seeming  deficiency  felt  by  many 
whileh\'ingupon  a  meatless  diet.  Choco- 
late sauce  is  an  addition,  rather  heayy 
for  summer,  perhaps,  but  one  that  wiU 
insure  more  than  an  ordinarily  nutri- 
tious dish.  In  creamed  codfish,  cream 
soups,  with  eggs,  in  custards,  with 
cereals,  macaroni  and  cheese,  the  com- 
binations are  almost  limitless.  Nor 
must  we  forget  to  mention  the  dish 
dear  to  the  heart  of  childhood  and  age 
ahke,  and  one  that  even  those  in 
middle  life  return  to,  again  and  again, 
when  the  summer  stm  is  high  in  mid- 
heaven,  and  real  refreshment  that  will 
not  tax  the  system  imduly  is  de- 
manded. We  refer  to  a  choice,  egg- 
shell china  bowl  filled  with  bread  and 
milk,  through  which,  perchance,  are 
mixed  blueberries  from  the  near-by 
hillside.  Truly  it  is  no  great  hardship 
to  go  without  meat,  at  least  for  a 
season,  if  we  will  but  expend  for  whole- 
some substitutes  a  goodly  portion  of 
the  money  we  have  been  accustomed 
to  spend  for  the  several  kinds  of  meat. 


Cherries,  Cherries 


Cherries  btirden  all  the  trees. 
Swinging  gayly  in  the  breeze, 
Wooing  every  bird,  I  ween, 
First  of  ripened  globes  to  glean; 
Every  wind  that  passes  by 
For  the  cherries  seems  to  sigh, 
Kissed  by  siinbeams  all  the  day 
Are  the  cherries  glad  and  gay. 


Cherries,  cherries,  ripe  and  red, 
On  the  branches  overhead. 
Swaying,  turning,  glowing  bright 
In  the  morning's  rosy  Hght; 
Xot  a  hand  shall  plead  in  vain 
Thus  the  jmcy  fruit  to  gain. 
Come  and  gather  as  you  may 
Cherries,  cherries,  glad  and  gay. 

— Rtdh  Raymond. 


Lessons  in  Elementary  Cooking 

By  Mary  Chandler  Jones 

Teacher  of  Cookery  in  the  Public  Schools  of  Brookline,  Mass. 


LESSON    IV 


Vegetables 


VEGETABLES  belong  to  the 
plant  kingdom  and  include  many 
parts  of  the  plant  which  may 
be  eaten.  It  is  difficult,  sometimes,  to 
make  a  distinction  between  a  vegetable 
and  a  fruit,  but,  in  general,  we  may  say 
that  fruits  have  some  sweet  acid  taste 
and  are,  really,  the  fruit  of  plants, 
while  vegetables  include  many  other 
portions.  In  the  turnip,  beet,  carrot 
and  parsnip  we  use  the  fleshy  root;  in 
celery  and  asparagus,  the  stalk;  in  the 
onion,  the  bulb;  in  lettuce,  cabbage  and 
spinach,  the  leaf;  in  cauliflower,  the 
blossom;  in  potatoes,  the  enlarged  por- 
tion of  an  underground  stem,  called  a 
tuber.  In  peas  and  beans  we  eat  the 
seeds,  and,  in  string  beans,  the  seed- 
pod  as  well.  We  may  notice  that  the 
parts  of  any  plant,  in  which  are  stored 
materials  for  the  future  growth  of  the 
plant  or  for  the  nourishment  of  the 
new-  plant,  give  us  our  most  hearty 
vegetables,  such  as  potatoes,  peas  and 
beans,  while  green  vegetables,  such  as 
lettuce,  furnish  very  little  real  building 
material  of  any  kind.  Such  vegetables 
are,  however,  very  valuable  for  the 
mineral  salts  which  they  contain,  and 
which  may  be  supplied  to  the  body  in 
this  form  better  than  in  any  other. 
Green  vegetables,  then,  even  in  winter, 
may  not  be  always  the  luxury  they 
sometimes  seem. 

Vegetables  that  are  eaten  without 
cooking,  as  in  salads,  must  be  most 
carefully  cleansed  and  served  cold  and 
crisp. 

Let  us  examine  the  structure  of  a 
slice  of  potato,  carrot,  turnip  and  onion. 


Test  each  with  dilute  tincture  of  iodine. 
Which  gives  the  purple  color  of  the 
starch  test?  From  the  taste  of  the 
carrot  and  turnip,  what  would  you 
imagine  them  to  contain? 

Grate  a  slice  of  turnip  and  one  of 
potato  and  wash  the  gratings  in  a  cheese 
cloth  under  cold  water.  Notice  in  each 
case  what  washes  through  and  what 
remains  in  the  cloth.  Let  the  potato 
water  stand,  then  pour  it  away  without 
disturbing  the  powder  that  settles  at 
the  bottom.  After  washing  the  powder 
let  it  dry  thoroughly.  Notice  how  glis- 
tening is  this  potato  starch.  Examine 
the  fibrous  mass  that  is  left  in  the  cheese, 
cloth.  This  is  called  woody  fiber  or 
cellulose  and  forms,  in  a  greater  or  less 
degree  of  hardness,  the  framework  of 
all  plant  life.  It  may  be  called  the  bony 
structure    of    plants    and    vegetables. 

The  cellulose  is  tough  and  must  be 
thoroughtly  broken  down  to  be  at  all 
digestible  and  to  allow  the  starch  and 
other  substances  in  a  vegetable  to  be 
used  in  the  system.  Heat  and  mois- 
ture are  necessary  for  softening  and 
breaking  down  the  cells  of  this  woody 
fiber.  It  may  be  said  that  in  cooking 
vegetables  we  wish  to  accomplish  three 
things: 

1.  To  soften  and  render  the  cellu- 
lose more  digestible. 

2.  To  cook  starch  if  present. 

3.  To  develop  flavor. 
Vegetables  contain  so  much  soluble 

matter,  in  the  form  of  mineral  salts, 
that  they  must  be  prepared  without 
long  soaking  in  water,  if  such  water  is, 
afterward,  to  be  thrown  away.     Pota- 


41 


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THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


toes,  for  instance,  if  pared,  cut  and 
soaked  before  cooking,  lose  a  very  large 
percentage  of  their  mineral  matter,  as 
well  as  much  of  their  albumin. 

General  Rules  for  Cooking 
Vegetables 

1.  Wash  and  scrub,  if  necessary. 

2.  Remove  the  skin. 

Potatoes.  Pare  with  a  thin  par- 
ing and  remove  the  eyes  with- 
out waste. 

Carrots.  Scrape  until  bright  and 
red. 

Turnips.  Cut  off  tough,  woody 
layer. 

Beets.  Wash  carefully  so  as  not 
to  break  the  skin.  Rub  off 
the  skin  after  cooking. 

3.  Plunge  the  vegetable  into  fresh 
boiling,  salted  water.  Green  vegetables, 
to  keep  their  color,  should  be  cooked 
without  a  cover  over  the  kettle. 
Onions  and  other  strong  vegetables, 
also,  should  be  cooked  uncovered,  since 
the  odor  will  thus  be  less  noticeable 
through  the  house. 

4.  Boil  the  vegetables  until  they 
are  tender,  then  remove  at  once  from 
the  water ;  mash  (if  desired) ,  season  and 
serve. 

5.  Use  salt,  pepper  and  butter  for 
seasoning.  Measure  the  vegetable  after 
it  is  cooked  and  mashed  or  prepared 
in  any  other  way,  and  for  each  cup  of 
the  vegetable  add  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter,  one-quarter  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  a  speck  of  pepper. 

Boiled  Potatoes 

Choose  medium-sized  potatoes.  Pre- 
pare by  the  general  rule.  When  they 
are  tender,  drain  off  every  drop  of 
water  and  leave  them,  uncovered,  in  a 
warm  place  to  drive  off  the  steam. 
Do  not  let  them  bum.     Serve  hot. 

Riced  Potatoes 
Press  hot  boiled  potatoes  through  a 
ricer  or  coarse   strainer.     Pile   lightly 
on  a  hot  dish  and  serve  hot. 


Mashed  Potatoes 

Measure  hot  riced  potato  and  season 
by  the  general  rule,  adding  with  the  sea- 
soning enough  hot  milk  to  moisten. 
Add  the  milk  slowly  and  be  careful  not 
to  add  too  much.  Beat  with  a  fork 
until  creamy  and  white.  Pile  lightly 
on  a  hot  dish  and  serve  hot. 

Creamed  Potatoes 

Cut  cold  boiled  potatoes  into  one- 
half  inch  cubes  and  reheat  in  white 
sauce.  Use  about  one  cup  of  sauce 
for  one  cup  and  a  half  of  potato.  Gar- 
nish with  sprigs  of  parsley,  washed  and 
dried. 

Baked  Potatoes 

Choose  medium-sized  potatoes.. 
Wash  and  place  them  on  the  rack  in 
a  moderate  oven.  Bake  about  thirty 
minutes  or  until  they  are  soft.  Prick 
the  skin  to  let  the  steam  escape. 
Serve  in  an  uncovered  dish,  covered 
with  a  napkin. 

(If  potatoes  contain  a  large  amount 
of  starch  and  a  still  larger  porportion 
of  water,  how  is  the  baked  potato 
cooked?  Remember  that  starch  re- 
requires  both  heat  and  moisture  for  its 
cookery.) 

Creamed  Carrots 

Cook  the  carrots  by  the  general  rule 
but  cut  into  dice  before  boiling.  When 
tender  remove  from  the  water  and  re- 
heat them  in  white  sauce.  This  white 
sauce  may  be  made  with  the  carrot 
"stock"  in  place  of  the  milk,  or  with 
part  milk  and  part  stock.  (The  stock 
is  the  water  in  which  the  carrots  were 
cooked.) 

Scalloped  Onions 

Wash  and  prepare  the  onions. 
Plunge  them  into  boiling,  salted  water 
and  let  boil  five  minutes,  then  drain  off 
every  drop  of  water  and  put  them  into 
a  fresh  supply  of  boiling,  salted  water. 


PRACTICAL  HOME  DIETETICS 


43 


Boil  until  the  onions  are  tender.  Drain 
off  the  water  again,  put  the  onions  into 
a  buttered  baldng  dish  and  pour  white 
sauce  over  them.  Cover  with  buttered 
crumbs  and  bake  until  the  crumbs  are 
a  golden  brown. 

Notice  the  color,  odor  and  taste  of 
water  in  which  vegetables  have  been 
cooked.  Is  any  waste  apparent? 
How  might  this  be  avoided?  (Ad- 
vantages of  using  vegetable  stock  in 
vegetable  sauces  and  soups,  and  in 
cooking  such  vegetables  as  carrots  and 
turnips,  directly  in  stews  and  soups.) 
Potato  water  can  never  be  used  in  these 
ways  and  potatoes  must  always  be  par- 
boiled before  putting  into  stews.   Why  ? 

What  is  the  advantage  in  cooking  a 


strongly  flavored  vegetable,  like  the 
onion,  in  two  waters?  Why  is  it  better 
to  bake  a  potato  than  to  boil  it  ? 

Our  common  winter  vegetables,  such 
as  the  turnip,  carrot,  parsnip  and  onion, 
are  too  little  eaten  and  enjoyed.  The 
mineral  salts  that  they  contain  are  very 
wholesome  for  general  use.  The  onion, 
too,  is  not  so  general  a  favorite  as  it 
richly  deserves  to  be.  It  is  a  pity  that 
it  is  not  more  generally  liked,  for  when 
properly  cooked  there  is  scarcely  any 
vegetable  more  deHcious  or  more  whole- 
some. Encourage  the  pupils  to  learn 
to  like,  if  they  do  not  already  enjoy 
them,  the  simple,  inexpensive  vege- 
tables, which  may  be  within  the  reach 
of  all. 


Practical  Home  Dietetics 

Diet  for  Nervous  People 
By  Minnie  Genevieve  Morse 


WHILE  diseases  of  bacterial  ori- 
gin are  being,  one  by  one, 
brought  under  control  by 
modem  methods  of  prevention  and 
treatment,  nervous  disorders  of  all 
kinds  are  said  to  be  steadily  on  the 
increase.  Many  factors  unite  in  bring- 
ing about  this  state  of  things,  but 
among  the  most  prolific  causes  of  nerv- 
ous illness  are  overwork  and  over- worry, 
domestic  and  financial  troubles,  an  over- 
strenuous  social  life,  and  the  modem 
spirit  of  unrest.  Women  are  the  most 
frequent  sufferers,  but  the  stronger  sex 
also  furnishes  many  victims,  and  even 
among  children,  under  the  influence  of 
an  inheritance  of  irritable  nerves  and 
the  over-intense  atmosphere  about 
them,  one  too  often  sees  signs  of  nerv- 
ous instability. 

When  actual  breakdown  occurs,  the 
patient  is  taken  in  hand  by  a  physician ; 
and  it  is  the  part  of  wisdom  to  seek 
medical  advice  on  the  first  appearance 


of  the  symptoms  of  such  a  disaster. 
The  sufferer  from  mere  nervous  ir- 
ritability, fatigue,  or  depression,  how- 
ever, seldom  considers  herself  ill,  and 
it  is  she  who  can  profit  most  by  the 
practical  suggestions  contained  in  such 
books  as  "Self  Help  for  Nervous 
Women,"  dealing  with  such  topics  as 
the  control  of  the  emotions,  rational 
ways  of  resting  and  working,  and 
suggestions  for  fighting  insomnia,  mor- 
bid fears,  and  other  nervous  miseries. 

Many  nervous  women  do  not  realize 
that  their  symptoms  are  a  sign  that  the 
nerve  tissues  of  the  body  are  not  in  good 
condition;  that  in  some  way  the  ex- 
penditure of  nerve  force  has  been 
greater  than  the  supply,  and  that  bank- 
ruptcy is  approaching.  Such  is  the 
case,  however;  the  nervous  tissues  are 
not  properly  nourished,  and  the  nerve 
cells  have  become  impoverished  and 
shrunken.  Therefore,  along  with  the 
effort  to  lessen  the  expenditure  of  nerv- 


44 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


ous  energy,  by  better  emotional  control 
and  a  more  rational  and  less  wearing 
life,  there  should  be  an  attempt  to  im- 
prove nutrition  and  build  up  the  de- 
pleted nervous  tissues. 

Nervous  patients  often  complain  of  a 
loss  of  appetite  so  complete  that  it 
is  only  with  difficulty  that  they  can 
force  themselves  to  eat  at  all.  Others 
suffer  from  nervous  indigestion;  while 
still  others,  attracted  by  the  advertise- 
ments of  some  "health  food,"  or  under 
the  influence  of  some  dietetic  faddist, 
exchange  a  normal,  well-balanced  ra- 
tion for  a  one-sided  diet,  which  fails 
to  supply  all  the  needs  of  the  body,  and 
so  aggravates  their  condition.  Where 
there  is  actual  digestive  trouble,  medi- 
cal treatment  may  be  needed.  If, 
however,  there  is  merely  a  lack  of  de- 
sire for  food,  together  with  nervous 
irritabihty  or  fatigue,  the  patient  needs, 
first,  to  take  a  sufficient  supply  of 
nourishing  and  easily-digestible  food, 
at  regular  intervals,  whether  she  wants 
it  or  not;  and,  second,  to  think  as  little 
as  possible  about  her  appetite  or  her 
digestion. 

There  is  no  such  thing  as  a  specific 
"brain"  or  "nerve  food,"  outside  of 
the  advertisements  of  enterprising  food- 
stuff producers;  the  nutrition  of  any 
particular  part  of  the  body  can  only  be 
improved  by  improving  that  of  the  body 
as  a  whole.  Nor  can  this  be  done  satis- 
factorily by  the  use  of  any  one  class  of 
foods  alone;  under  ordinary  circum- 
stances a  generous  and  nourishing,  but 
well-balanced  diet  produces  the  best  re- 
sults. When  recourse  must  be  had  to  the 
"rest  cure,"  a  milk  diet  is  frequently 
ordered  for  a  certain  length  of  time, 
and  in  some  sanitariums  special  re- 
strictions are  put  upon  the  diet  for 
nervous  patients;  but,  for  the  person 
who  is  able  to  lead  a  fairly  normal  Hfe, 
there  need  be  no  violent  deviation  from 
the  ordinary  bill  of  fare.  As  the  shrunk- 
en nerve  cells  need  rebuilding,  the 
proteids,  or  nitrogenous  foods,  among 
which  meats,  eggs    and  milk  hold  the 


leading  place,  should  be  well  repre- 
sented in  the  diet.  The  "force  pro- 
ducers"— the  carbohydrates  or  sug- 
ars and  starches,  and  the  fats  —  are 
also  an  important  part  of  the  fuel 
needed  for  the  proper  running  of  the 
human  machine,  while  fresh  fruits  and 
vegetables,  though  containing  less  ac- 
tual nourishment,  do  much  to  keep  the 
body  in  good  condition. 

Liberty  to  eat  a  generous  and  well- 
balanced  ration  does  not,  however, 
mean  Hcense  to  indulge  in  all  sorts  of 
indigestible  and  improperly  prepared 
food.  When  the  nervous  system  is  in 
a  run-down  condition,  the  nerve  supply 
to  all  parts  of  the  body,  including  the 
digestive  organs,  is  not  up  to  the  normal, 
so  that  these  organs  cannot  do  their 
work  as  well  as  usual;  and  attempts  to 
improve  nutrition  cannot  meet  with 
much  success,  if  the  digestive  system 
be  overtaxed.  Among  meats,  veal 
should  be  avoided,  as  should  pork, 
except  in  the  form  of  bacon  or  ham, 
and  liver  and  kidneys.  Chicken  is 
easily  digested,  but  turkey  is  less  so, 
and  duck  and  goose  should  be  omitted 
altogether.  Almost  all  kinds  of  fresh 
fish  may  be  eaten,  with  the  exception  of 
salmon  and  eels,  but  salt  fish  are  not 
desirable.  Fried  foods  of  any  kind 
put  a  heavy  tax  upon  digestion,  as  do 
highly-seasoned  or  pickled  foods  and 
complicated  "made  dishes";  pastry  is 
proverbially  difficult  of  digestion,  and 
griddle  cakes,  fancy  cakes  and  rich 
puddings  should  be  avoided.  While 
most  vegetables  and  fruits  may  find  a 
place  in  the  menu,  cabbage,  cucum- 
bers, turnips  and  radishes  among  the 
former,  and  bananas  and  pineapples 
among  the  latter,  often  prove  difficult 
of  digestion.  There  are  many  people, 
also,  who  cannot  eat  tomatoes  or  straw- 
berries without  suffering. 

Nervous  people  are  especially  liable 
to  be  great  tea  or  coffee  drinkers,  and 
often  grow  very  dependent  upon  their 
favorite  beverage,  and  think  they  could 
not  get  along  without  it.     This  is  not 


PRACTICAL  HOME  DIETETICS 


45 


to  be  wondered  at,  for  both  tea  and 
coffee  are  nerve  stimulants,  relieving 
fatigue  and  producing  a  feeling  of  re- 
freshment. They  have  no  real  food 
value,  however;  and  if  one  can  learn  to 
take  instead  a  cup  of  cocoa  or  hot  milk 
she  will  exchange  a  purely  stimulating 
beverage  for  a  nourishing  one,  while 
still  enjoying  the  pleasure  and  the  ad- 
vantage to  digestion  that  come  from 
the  use  of  a  hot  drink.  Many  people, 
who  would  not  be  willing  to  give  up  tea 
or  coffee  altogether  would  find  it  to 
their  advantage  to  reduce  the  quantity 
taken  to  a  minimum.  When  tea  in 
large  quantities  is  taken  with  meals,  in- 
stead of  aiding  digestion  it  retards  it ; 
furthermore,  it  is  liable  to  cause  wake- 
fulness and  nervous  restlessness.  Tea 
should  never  be  allowed  to  "steep"  in- 
definitely; the  additional  tannin  that  is 
thus  extracted  makes  it  much  more 
mischievous.  No  dietetic  error  could 
be  worse  for  the  nervous  system  than 
the  practice  of  keeping  a  teapot  con- 
tinually on  the  range,  for  refreshment 
at  all  hours.  Even  greater  caution  is 
needed  in  the  use  of  coffee,  Avhich  is  a 
stronger  stimulant  than  tea;  its  ten- 
dency to  produce  insomnia  and  nervous 
tremor  is  well  known,  and  in  cases  of 
extreme  overindulgence  it  may  bring 
about  a  condition  resembling  that  of 
other  drug  habits. 

Alcoholic  beverages  the  nervous  per- 
son should  leave  strictly  alone,  unless  for 
some  specific  reason  they  are  ordered 
by  a  physician.  Alcohol,  like  other 
drugs,  is  a  good  servant  for  use  in 
an  emergency,  but  to  one  who  leans 
upon  it  for  steady  aid  in  improving 
nutrition  and  rebuilding  a  debihtated 
nervous  system  it  proves  a  false  friend. 
Dr.  W.  Oilman  Thompson,  the  well- 
known  authority  in  dietetic  questions, 
says  of  it:  "Though  alcohol  is  such  a 
strong  force  producer  and  heat  genera- 
tor, its  effect  in  this  direction  is  ver}^ 
soon  counterbalanced  by  its  stronger 
influence  in  lowering  the  general  tone 
of   the   nervous   system,    and   in   pro- 


ducing positive  degeneration  in  the 
tissues." 

In  planning  for  a  generous  propor- 
tion of  "tissue  builders"  in  the  diet, 
one's  first  thought  is  apt  to  be  of  the 
red  meats.  It  is  not  advisable,  how- 
ever, to  have  meats  figure  overlargely 
in  the  menu,  as  certain  extractives 
which  are  derived  from  them  are  ex- 
citants to  the  nervous  system.  It  is 
for  this  reason  that  beef  tea,  bouillon 
and  meat  juice  make  such  eft"ective 
restoratives;  their  effect  is  almost  en- 
tirely that  of  a  stimulant,  owing  to  the 
preponderance  of  these  extractives 
over  the  albumin,  or  true  tissue-build- 
ing substance,  which  they  contain. 
They  cannot  be  depended  on  to  furnish 
nourishment,  and  should  be  avoided 
by  nervous  people.  With  onl}^  a 
moderate  amount  of  meat  in  the  diet, 
the  desired  average  of  proteid  may  be 
secured  by  the  use  of  milk  and  eggs. 
Milk  is  the  nearest  approach  to  a  per- 
fect food,  and  there  are  few  who  can 
not  take  it  in  one  form  or  another.  A 
quart  of  milk  a  day  means  only  four 
glasses;  yet,  as  the  nutritive  value  of 
a  pint  is  said  to  be  about  the  same  as 
that  of  six  ounces  of  beef,  the  addition 
of  a  quart  of  milk  a  day  to  the  diet 
means  a  material  aid  in  rebuilding  the 
bodily  tissues.  ^lany  who  dislike  the 
taste  of  milk  do  not  object  to  it  when 
flavored  with  coffee  or  caramel,  beaten 
up  with  an  egg,  made  into  cocoa,  ice 
cream,  junket  or  other  custards,  or  in 
gruels  or  cream  soups. 

Sour  milk  has  been  found  by  recent 
investigations  to  contain  a  principle 
which  aids  in  preventing  the  fermenta- 
tion of  food  in  the  lower  part  of  the 
digestive  tract;  used  in  this  form,  there- 
fore, milk  plays  a  double  r6le  in  im- 
proving nutrition.  The  delicate  cheese 
made  from  sour  milk,  known  as  cottage 
or  pot  cheese,  is  thus  an  especiall}^  use- 
ful article  of  food.  Buttermilk  is  also 
high  in  favor  with  modem  dietitians; 
it  is  very  easily  digested,  but  should 
only    be     used     when     freshly     pre- 


46 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


pared,  as  it  deteriorates  in  a  very  short 
time. 

Eggs,  raw  or  slightly  cooked,  are  the 
second  great  dependence,  when  an  es- 
pecially nourishing  and  easily  digested 
diet  is  demanded.  A  raw  egg  may  be 
broken  into  a  glass  and  svv' allowed  like 
a  raw  oyster,  or  it  may  be  beaten  up 
with  milk.  The  whites  alone  can 
sometimes  be  used  with  success,  when 
almost  nothing  else  can  be  retained  or 
digested,  and  in  cases  where  there  is 
need  of  immediate  and  rapid  nutrition 
the  whites  of  a  dozen  or  more  eggs  a 
day  may  be  given.  They  may  be 
swallowed  oyster  fashion,  stirred  lightly 
into  orange  juice,  or  beaten  with  milk 
or  into  cocoa.  Eggs  may  also  be  soft- 
boiled,  or  lightly  poached,  or  they  m.ay 
be  allowed  to  stand  with  the  shells 
on  in  hot  (not  boiling)  water  until 
brought  to  a  jelly-like  consistency.  A 
similar  and  very  attractive  method  of 
preparation  is  to  break  an  egg  into  a 
ramekin,  which  is  then  placed  in  a 
larger  dish  of  water  over  the  fire  until 
the  same  jellying  process  has  taken 
place.  Hard-boiled  or  baked  eggs  take 
a  long  time  to  digest. 

Cheese  is  a  very  nourishing  form  of 
proteid,  and  a  valuable  addition  to  the 
m^enu  for  those  w4th  whom  it  agrees. 
But  it  should  be  remembered  that  when 
toasted,  cheese  is  about  as  indigestible 
an  article  of  food  as  can  be  imagined. 

Peas  and  beans  also  contain  a  large 
amount  of  proteid.  When  used  in 
thick  purees  made  with  milk  they  are 
ver}^  nourishing  and  are  readily  di- 
gested, supplying  tissue-building  ma- 
terial without  the  irritating  properties 
of  the  meat  extractives. 

Few  nervous  people  drink  enough 
water.  Drinking  large  quantities  of 
water  at  meals  is  bad  for  the  digestion, 
diluting  the  gastric  juices  so  as  to  give 
them  less  power  over  the  food  in  the 
stomach,  but  a  generous  supply  of  cool 
(not  iced)  water  taken  on  rising  in  the 
morning,  between  meals  and  at  bed- 
time helps  to  clear  the  system  of  waste 


matters  and   to   prevent   constipation, 
and  it  also  improves  the  complexion. 

Constipation  is  very  common  among 
those  with  an  enfeebled  nervous  system, 
but  it  can  be  overcome  to  a  consider- 
able extent  by  including  in  the  diet  a 
large  proportion  of  laxative  foods. 
Eating  freely  of  the  fresh  fruits  and 
vegetables,  which  contain  much  material 
not  used  in  thenourishment  of  the  body, 
will  produce  larger  and  freer  evacu- 
tions;  apples, —  raw,  baked,  or'  ipple 
sauce, —  oranges,  celery,  spinacn  and 
string  beans  are  especialty  useful.  Figs 
and  prunes,  raw  or  stewed,  graham 
bread,  cracked  wheat  and  wheaten 
grits  also  have  a  laxative  effect.  A 
glass  of  cool  water  the  first  thing  in  the 
morning,  an  orange  or  an  apple  or  two 
or  a  few  figs  or  prunes  before  retiring, 
and  confidence  in  the  efficacy  of  these 
rational  methods,  will  often  bring  about 
an  entirely  satisfactory  condition. 

Much  indigestion  in  nervous  people 
is  not  the  result  of  an  actual  disorder 
of  the  stomach,  or  even  of  indiscretions 
in  diet,  but  is  caused  by  the  lowered 
tone  of  the  nerves  supplying  the  digest- 
ive apparatus.  In  such  cases,  the 
nervous  energy  of  the  body  should  be 
conserved  in  every  possible  way,  and 
the  digestive  organs  given  every  chance 
to  do  their  work  properly.  x\  glass  of 
hot  water,  plain  or  with  a  pinch  of 
salt  or  soda,  taken  half  an  hour  before 
meals,  will  often  stimulate  the  digestive 
fluids  to  a  more  profuse  flow.  Lying 
down  for  half  an  hour,  before  and  after 
meals,  or  even  sitting  quietly  in  a  com- 
fortable chair  —  perhaps  with  a  light 
book,  but  on  no  account  making  any 
mental  effort  that  would  call  the  blood 
to  the  brain  when  it  is  needed  in  the 
digestive  organs  —  is  a  procedure  that 
sometimes  works  wonders  in  cases  of 
this  sort.  When  the  giving  up  of  so 
much  time  is  impracticable,  even  ten 
or  fifteen  minutes  of  real  relaxation  and 
quiet  will  help  to  keep  one  from  going  to 
a  meal  in  a  state  of  nervous  tension  or 
excitement,  or  returning  to  such  a  con- 


PRACTICAL  HOME  DIETETICS 


47 


dition  the  instant  the  food  is  disposed 
of,  thus  removing  one  of  the  greatest 
obstacles  to  good  digestion  among  those 
who  lead  a  too  strenuous  life. 

Mealtime  ought  in  every  household, 
but  especially  among  highly-strung 
people,  to  be  made  a  particularly 
pleasant  and  cheerful  time;  to  be  kept 
free  from  all  bickering  and  faultfinding, 
all  discussion  of  unpleasant  subjects, 
worries,  or  matters  of  business,  and  as 
far  as  possible  from  all  sense  of  hurry. 
There  is  nothing  that  has  a  stronger 
influence  upon  digestion  than  the 
mental  attitude  with  which  one  comes 
to  the  table;  grief,  worry  and  anger 
almost  invariably  produce  a  deleterious 
effect  on  digestion,  besides  depriving 
one  of  the  desire  for  food.  Pleasant 
emotion,  on  the  other  hand,  improves 
digestion  and  assimilation;  the  old  say- 
ing, "Laugh  and  grow  fat,"  has  a  large 
amount  of  truth  in  it. 

An  artisticially  spread  table  and  a 
meal  serv^ed  with  especial  daintiness 
will  often  enable  one  to  eat  with  fair 
heartiness,  when  it  would  be  impossible 
if  the  food  were  less  attractively  pre- 
sented. Unless  it  is  absolutely  neces- 
sary, a  person  with  loss  of  appetite 
from  nervous  debility  should  have 
nothing  to  do  with  the  preparation  of 
her  own  food.  If  the  patient  is  a  wo- 
man who  has  been  doing  her  own  house- 
hold work,  she  may  be  able  to  arrange 
for  her  meals  at  some  near-by  boarding 
house  or  restaurant,  w^hich  would  give 
her  both  rest  and  a  change  of  surround- 
ings at  meals.  Such  a  change  some- 
times proves  surprisingly  beneficial. 

Whether  taken  at  home  or  elsewhere, 
the  nervous  person's  meals  should  al- 
wa3^s  be  taken  at  regular  hours,  regular 
hours  of  work  being  as  necessary  to  the 
well-being  of  the  digestive  system  as  to 
the  schedule  of  the  methodical  house- 
keeper. If  one  finds  it  really  impossi- 
ble to  eat  a  sufficient  quantity  of  food 
at  mealtime,  a  luncheon  in  the  middle 
of  the  morning  and  another  in  the  middle 
of  the  afternoon  should  supplement  the 


three  usual  meals,  but  these  luncheons 
should  be  at  the  same  time  every  day. 
Dinner  at  night  is  to  be  preferred  to  a 
midday  dinner,  unless  plenty  of  time 
can  be  given  to  the  latter;  the  midday 
meal  is  apt  to  be  a  rather  hurried 
aft'air,  sandwiched  in  between  various 
duties  and  engagements,  while  at  night 
the  pressure  of  the  day  is  largely  over, 
and  the  digestive  organs  have  better 
opportunity  for  taking  care  of  the 
heaviest  meal  of  the  day.  Furthermore, 
many  nerv^ous  people  who  can  scarcely 
touch  food  early  in  the  day  can  eat  a 
fairly  heavy  meal  at  night.  Of  course, 
if  indigestion  and  a  wakeful  night  fol- 
low a  late  dinner,  some  other  course 
must  be  pursued. 

On  the  other  hand,  insomnia  may 
often  be  cured  by  eating  a  light  lunch- 
eon, such  as  a  glass  of  milk  and  a  few 
crackers,  the  last  thing  before  retiring. 
This  procedure  is  effective  in  cases 
where  the  mind  is  too  active  for  sleep, 
and  the  desired  result  is  produced  by 
calHng  the  blood  to  the  digestive  or- 
gans, thus  relieving  the  overcharged 
brain.  The  same  plan  may  be  followed 
by  those  who  waken  in  the  early  morn- 
ing hours  and  find  that  insistent  trains 
of  thought  keep  them  from  further 
sleep;  a  glass  of  milk  or  other  light 
nourishment  can  be  within  reach. 

Plenty  of  fresh  air  in  the  sleeping- 
room  at  night,  and  living  as  much  as 
possible  out  of  doors  during  the  day 
are  important  aids  to  digestion  for  the 
nervous  person.  The  more  oxygen 
that  is  taken  into  the  lungs,  the  better 
all  the  vital  processes  can  be  carried  on. 
Other  things  being  equal,  the  woman 
who  sleeps  with  wide-opened  windows 
and  spends  several  hours  each  day  in 
the  open  air  will  stand  a  far  better 
chance  of  being  able  to  digest  and  as- 
similate a  normal  ration  than  she  whose 
close  room  obHges  her  to  breathe  the 
same  air  over  and  over.  There  is  no 
surer  way  to  produce  most  of  the  ills 
that  flesh  is  heir  to  than  to  deprive  the 
body  of  a  plentiful  supply  of  oxygen. 


52 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


IF  you  are  pulling  threads  in  linens, 
or  any  goods  where  the  threads  are 
hard  to  get  hold  of,  rub  a  bar  of  soap 
(Ivory  I  always  use)  over  the  threads, 
and  you  will  find  that  they  slip  easily. 


M.  B. 


A  Suggestion  to  Guests 

FEW  are  the  households  in  which 
the  weekly  washings  do  not  form 
a  sore  point.  For  the  housewife  who 
can  get  this  necessary  work  done  well, 
regularly,  economically  and  without 
friction  is  the  blessed  exception  now- 
a-days. 

Hence  the  addition  of  a  guest's 
clothes,  though  the  pieces  be  reason- 
ably few  in  number,  is  often  a  sort 
of  a  last  straw  —  enough  to  precipi- 
tate a  storm  in  the  kitchen  or  laundry, 
to  the  distraction  of  the  hostess,  who  is 
anxious  to  make  her  guest  comfortable 
and  equally  anxious  to  keep  the  peace 
with  her  help,  especially  at  this  time. 

So  it  is  a  wise  guest  who  pleasantly 
but  firmly  declines  to  add  his  or  her 
clothes  to  the  family  washings,  quietly 
calling  in  the  laundry  wagon,  or,  if 
that  be  impossible,  putting  the  gar- 
ments into  a  small  bag  (brought  for 
the  purpose)  and  giving  them  to  the 
washerwoman  as  a  separate  bit  of 
work,  making  a  private  agreement  as 
to  the  price.  The  expense  is  but 
Httle  —  nothing  at  all  to  be  compared 
with  the  value  of  being  an  agreeable 
guest,  welcome  in  the  kitchen  as  well 
as  in  the  parlor.  If  one  dare  not  or 
cannot  afford  to  "tip"  the  help  in  the 
house,  the  least  she  can  do  is  to  lessen 
their  burden  in  some  such  way  as  this. 
Where  the  hostess  does  her  own  work, 
this  bit  of  thoughtfulness  is  all  the 
more  necessary. 

Even  though  the  hostess  be  a  near 
relative  she  will  appreciate  the  kindly 
independence  and  its  motive,  and  the 
visitor  may  prolong  her  stay  without 
feeling  that  the  household  wheels  need 
extra  oil  on  her  account.  l.  m.  c. 


Spring  Diet 

WITH  the  approach  of  spring  and  a 
warm  season,  it  is,  says  Dr.  Olsen 
in  Good  Health,  desirable  to  modify  the 
diet  somewhat,  avoiding  the  heavier 
and  more  concentrated  foods,  and 
taking  more  fruit  and  salads  of  various 
kinds.  It  is  a  fact  that  the  require- 
ments of  the  body  vary  to  a  certain 
extent  according  to  the  weather.  Dur- 
ing the  hot  summer  season  but  a  com- 
paratively small  amount  of  food  is  re- 
quired for  the  purpose  of  maintaining 
the  normal  bodily  temperature.  In 
the  coldest  weather  of  winter  the  re- 
verse is  the  case,  and  then  one  requires 
ample  nutrition,  and  it  is  proper  to  eat 
more  heartily.  But  if  the  hearty  eating 
is  continued  well  into  springtime, 
when  the  temperature  gets  higher  and 
higher,  it  would  produce  a  surfeiting 
of  the  body  which  would  be  extremely 
undesirable  and  might  produce  un- 
pleasant  disturbances. 

Singing  Kettles 

It  is  said  that  the  Japanese,  so  in- 
genious in  making  curious  and  fasci- 
nating devices  of  every  kind,  manu- 
facture singing  teakettles.  An  iron 
kettle,  otherwise  quite  ordinary,  has 
the  almost  lifelike  characteristic  of 
bursting  into  song  when  the  water  boils. 

The  sounds,  they  say,  are  produced 
by  steam  bubbles  escaping  from  sheets 
of  iron  fastened  across  the  kettle  near 
the  bottom.  Skill  is  required  not  only 
in  making  them,  but  in  regulating  the 
fire  under  them.  These  curious  kettles 
have  been  in  use  many  years. 

To  Distinguish  Old  Milk  from  Fresh 

When  both  are  kept  bottled  in  the 
refrigerator,  turn  the  pasteboard  bottle- 
top  upside  down  in  the  bottle  contain- 
ing left-over  milk,  and  keep  it  right 
side  up  in  the  bottle  contain  g  fresh 
milk.  G.  w.  D. 


Items  for  this  department  should  bear  name  and  ad 
dress  of  writer  in  full. — Editor. 


HOME  IDEAS  AND  ECONOMIES 


49 


letin  from  the  United  States  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture  we  are  told  that 
grape  juice  can  be  safely  steriHzed  at 
from  165°  Fahr.  to  176°  Fahr.,  and 
that  at  this  temperature  the  flavor  is 
hardly  changed,  while  it  does  change 
at  a  temperature  above  200°  Fahr. 

The  following  method  of  preparing 
grape  juice  gives  satisfactory  results: 
Crush  the  ripe  grapes.  Pour  them 
into  a  cloth  bag  and  extract  the 
juice  by  twisting  the  bag.  Heat  the 
juice  in  a  double  boiler  or  stone  jar 
in  a  pan  of  water  until  it  steams. 
Pour  the  juice  into  an  enameled  vessel 
to  settle  for  twenty-four  hours.  Drain 
it  carefully  from  the  sediment  and  run 
it  through  a  cone-shaped  filter  made 
from  woolen  cloth.  Then  proceed  as 
you  would  to  can  any  fruit  in  a  wash 
boiler.  Put  a  false  bottom  in  the  boiler 
and  set  the  jars  or  bottles,  filled  to  one 
inch  of  the  top,  in  the  boiler.  Fill  in 
water  within  an  inch  of  the  top  of  the 
jars  or  bottles  and  heat  until  the  juice 
is  about  to  simmer.  Take  out  and  seal 
or  cork  immediately.  Cotton  batting 
tied  over  corks  will  prevent  mold  germs 
entering.  Of  course  the  cans  or  bottles 
must  be  running  over  full  when  sealed. 

*  E.    B. 

HERE  is  a  recipe  for  a  bread  pud- 
ding which  differs  a  little  from 
the  mock  Indian  pudding  given  in  the 
Cooking-School  Magazine  for  Feb- 
ruary, 1905,  and  really  deceived  a  man 
who  is  very  fond  of  baked  Indian  pud- 
ding into  the  belief  that  his  favorite 
dessert  was  before  him.  The  recipe 
is  original,  but  was  suggested  by  your 
own. 

One  cup  of  dry  bread  crumbs;  one 
quart  of  milk;  one-half  a  cup  of  mo- 
lasses; one-third  a  cup  of  granulated 
sugar;  one  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon; 
one-half  a  teaspoonful  of  ginger;  one- 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt;  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter;  one  egg. 

Reserve  one  cup  of  milk;  scald  the 
remainder  and  pour  over  the  dry  bread 


crumbs.  Add  the  molasses,  then  the 
sugar  into  which  you  have  stirred  the 
spices  and  salt,  then  add  the  butter, 
cut  into  tiny  bits,  and,  lastly,  the  egg, 
beaten  Hght.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  about  one  hour;  pour  over  it  the 
remaining  cup  of  milk  and  bake  one 
and  one-half  hours  longer.  A  half 
cup  of  raisins  may  be  added  if  desired. 
The  bread  crumbs  in  this  case  contained 
a  large  proportion  of  entire  wheat 
crusts,  which  may  possibly  have  given 
the  pudding  its  especial  excellence. 

Regarding  varying  the  monotony  of 
the  staples,  like  bread  and  potatoes,  too 
much  cannot  be  said.  My  three  grow- 
ing boys  eat  quantities  of  bread  and 
butter,  and  I  find  that  a  change  from 
white  bread,  which  is  our  staple  bread, 
to  entire  wheat  or  oatmeal  bread  (they 
do  not  enjoy  rye  bread)  seems  to  them 
a  great  addition  to  our  usual  bill  of 
fare.  Coffee  cake  makes  a  Sunday 
morning  breakfast  a  feast;  any  change, 
in  fact,  in  the  bread  seems  to  make  a 
more  elaborate  menu.  The  same  en- 
thusiasm prevails,  if  we  change  oc- 
casionally from  plain  boiled  or  mashed 
potatoes  to  potatoes  Hongroise,  French 
fried,  scalloped  or  hashed  brown. 

E.  C.  R. 


IT  is  an  excellent  plan  to  underscore 
with  ink  the  various  ingredients 
in  any  recipe.  This  makes  it  possible 
for  one  to  see  at  a  glance  what  articles 
are  needed,  and  frequently  prevents 
one  from  omitting  something  to  which 
the  success  of  the  dish  is  due. 

Any  dish  in  which  dough  has  been 
prepared  should  be  rinsed  with  cold 
water  before  being  washed,  as  hot  water 
tends  to  cook  the  dough,  making  it 
more  difficult  to  remove.  Fpr  the 
same  reason  run  the  egg  beater  a  second 
or  so  in  cold  water  before  putting  it 
into  the  hot. 

Last  June  we  saw  a  imique  decoration 
of   a   fireplace   at   a   wedding.     Ferns 


HOME  IDEAS 

AND 

ECONOMIES 


Contributions  to  this  department  will  be  gladly  received.     Accepted  items  will  be 
paid  for  at  reasonable  rates. 


Thought  and   Digestion 

"  But  hushed  be  every  thought  that  springs 
From  out  the  bitterness  of  things." 

—  Wordsworth. 

OF  equal  importance  with  air  and 
sunshine  to  the  body  is  serene 
and  happy  thought  and  that  equable 
mental  poise  that  gives  stability  to 
both  body  and  soul. 

At  the  table  especially  should  all 
thought  be  of  this  nature,  since  whole- 
some and  cheerful  thoughts  are  es- 
sential to  the  most  perfect  digestion 
which  m^tst  precede  the  most  perfect 
assimilation  and  nourishment,  results 
very  necessary  to  the  retaining  of 
youth  and  the  retarding  of  age  effects. 

Hence  digestion  and  felicity  go  hand 
in  hand  to  perpetuate  plumpness  and 
postpone  wrinkles. 

The  "jolly  old  critter  of  ninety- four," 
with  freak  features  and  no  wrinkles 
other  than  those  kindly  and  worthy 
ones  that  are  at  once  recognized  as 
coming  from  sympathy,  kindly  thought 
and  a  good  digestion,  is  an  actuality, 
now  and  then,  and  there  ought  to  be 
more  of  him,  because  there  might  be,  if 
diet  and  thought  were  made  the  best 
kinds  of  companions,  being  made  the 
most  of  as  copartners. 

To  the  idea  of  plain  living  and  joyous 
thinking  I  need  add  but  one  injunction, 
to  capture  in  a  nutshell  the  gist  of 
table  benefits  as  far  as  the  best  nourish- 
ment is  concerned,  and  that  is  the 
avoidance  of  overeating,  recalling  here 
the  old  proverb,  "To  lengthen  your 
life  shorten  your  meals." 


"  Go  to  your  banquet,  then,  but  use  delight 
So  as  to  rise  still  with  an  appetite." 

—  Herrick 

Thus  may 

"  Time  lay  his  hand 
Upon  your  heart  gently,  not  smiting  it; 
But  as  a  harper  lays  his  open  palm 
Upon  his  harp  to  deaden  its  vibrations." 

A.   P.   R. 


Dandelion  Wine 

I  HAVE  made  dandelion  wine  after 
various  recipes,  but  those  who  have 
made  it  in  the  following  manner  pro- 
nounce it  the  best  they  ever  drank: 

Pour  over  two  quarts  of  blossoms  one 
gallon  of  boiling  water.  Let  it  stand 
from  twenty-four  to  forty-eight  hours, 
then  strain  through  cheese  cloth.  Add 
the  juice  of  four  oranges  and  the  juice 
of  three  lemons.  Put  in  four  pounds  of 
granulated  sugar  and  one-fourth  cake 
of  yeast  foam.  Stir  until  the  sugar  is 
dissolved.  Put  the  mixture  in  a  two 
or  three  gallon  jar.  Tie  muslin  over 
the  top  of  the  jar.  Set  it  in  the  cellar 
for  six  weeks.  Then  skim,  strain  and 
bottle.  It  is  ready  for  use  and  is 
pronounced  not  only  good  to  the 
taste  but  a  healthful  drink. 

Grape  Juice 

I  have  repeatedly  been  disappointed 
in  the  flavor  of  my  canned  cider  and 
grape  juice,  which  I  put  up  without 
sugar.  But  I  have  learned  that  in 
order  to  preserve  the  flavor  of  the 
fresh  juice  it  must  only  be  thoroughly 
heated,  not  boiled.     In  a  farmer's  bul- 


48 


HOME  IDEAS  AND  ECONOMIES 


51 


live  two  blocks  apart,  but  as  one  of  us 
is  possessed  of  a  small  boy  with  a  red 
wagon,  it  is  not  difficult  to  carry  it 
back  and  forth.  We  bought  it  with 
the  understanding  that  neither  of  us 
could  lend  it,  so  that  problem  is  also 
solved.  Now,  as  housecleaning  is  at 
hand,  we  have  decided  to  rent  it,  if 
desired,  for  one  dollar  a  day  for  the 
machine  and  one  dollar  for  the  operator 
— which  will  be  she  or  myself — the  rent 
for  the  machine  to  be  divided,  but  the 
operator's  money  going  to  herself. 

Simplify  the  Furnishings 

AS  the  warm  weather  approaches, 
I  simplify  the  furnishings  of  each 
room  as  much  as  possible.  Practically 
all  the  bric-a-brac  is  put  away,  and 
photographs  and  small  pictures  are 
shut  safely  away  from  the  dust.  I  like 
a  profusion  of  cut  flowers  about  the 
house  during  summer,  and  alone  they 
show  to  better  advantage  than  as  if 
they  were  crowded  in  with  all  the  rest 
of  the  small  articles;  this  also  saves 
much  dusting.  As  many  small  rugs 
as  can  be  divspensed  with  are  carefully 
cleaned  and  put  away.  This  gives  the 
rooms  an  appearance  of  space  and 
coolness  that  is  very  refreshing.  Cush- 
ions are  covered  with  cool  linen  slips. 
A  shady  little  porch  off  the  kitchen 
has.  been  screened,  and  here  we  eat 
many  of  our  meals;  we  find  this  pleas- 
ant, and  a  great  saving  of  work.  The 
dining-room  is  very  severely  dealt 
with,  and  all  superfluous  dishes  and 
silver  put  away.  All  this  greatly 
simplifies  the  housekeeping  during  the 
warm  tedious  months  when  the  house- 
wife needs  all  her  strength,     a.  m.  a. 

ONE  bright  woman  improvised  an 
antique  "tip-top"  table  out  of 
two  table  leaves  and  an  ordinary  ob- 
long stand.  Putting  the  stand  in  the 
desired  position  at  the  side  of  her 
dining-room,  she  placed  one  leaf  across 
the  top,  and  set  the  other  up  at  right 


angles  on  top  of  it,  leaning  it  against 
the  wall.  As  they  were  all  of  black 
walnut,  the  effect,  when  covered  with 
pretty  doilies  and  pieces  of  copper,  was 
that  of  the  much-desired  but  hard-to- 
find  old  colonial  table  in  such  demand. 

The  man  of  the  family  had  a  bad 
cut  near  the  knuckle  of  his  finger,  where 
it  seemed  impossible  to  keep  it  covered. 
A  druggist,  noticing  his  predicament, 
asked  to  do  it  up  for  him.  After  wet- 
ting the  finger  all  about  the  cut  with 
collodion,  he  laid  a  very  thin  layer  of 
absorbent  cotton  over  it;  hardly  more 
than  a  film  of  cotton  was  used.  This 
he  again  wet  thoroughly  with  the 
collodion,  making  it  adhere  closely  to 
the  finger  in  all  places.  The  result  was 
a  pliable,  water-tight  dressing  that 
stayed  on  until  pulled  off,  and  we  have 
found  it  equally  successful  since. 

Plant  scarlet  poppies  and  blue  and 
white  bachelor's  buttons  now  for  your 
Fourth  of  July  centerpieces.  Another 
good  combination  is  scarlet  poppies, 
love-in-the-mist,  and  gypsophilla,  or 
baby's  breath.  Both  groups  make 
beautiful  red,  white  and  blue  bouquets. 

It  is  a  difficult  thing  to  make  a  good 
button-hole  in  thin  material.  Fine 
white  embroidery  cotton  makes  a  very 
handsome  button-hole  in  such  ma- 
terial and  will  be  found  to  be  much 
easier  to  work  with  than  thread,  and 
it  is  quite  as  durable. 

Why  do  we  all  not  make  more  un- 
der-clothes  of  the  white  cotton  crape 
and  avoid  all  that  ironing  in  warm 
weather? 

An  ingenious  woman  darns  all  of  her 
stockings  over  shoe-trees.  She  says 
that  as  the  stockings  are  held  in  the 
shape  in  which  they  are  worn,  the 
darns  are  more  comfortable  to  wear, 
as  they  conform  to  the  shape  of  the  foot. 

J.   F.  G. 


52 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


IF  you  are  pulling  threads  in  linens, 
or  any  goods  where  the  threads  are 
hard  to  get  hold  of,  rub  a  bar  of  soap 
(Ivory  I  always  use)  over  the  threads, 
and  you  will  find  that  they  slip  easily. 

M.   B. 


A  Suggestion   to   Guests 

FEW  are  the  households  in  which 
the  weekly  washings  do  not  form 
a  sore  point.  For  the  housewife  who 
can  get  this  necessary  work  done  well, 
regularly,  economically  and  without 
friction  is  the  blessed  exception  now- 
a-days. 

Hence  the  addition  of  a  guest's 
clothes,  though  the  pieces  be  reason- 
ably few^  in  number,  is  often  a  sort 
of  a  last  straw  —  enough  to  precipi- 
tate a  storm  in  the  kitchen  or  laundry, 
to  the  distraction  of  the  hostess,  who  is 
anxious  to  make  her  guest  comfortable 
and  equally  anxious  to  keep  the  peace 
with  her  help,  especially  at  this  time. 

So  it  is  a  wise  guest  who  pleasantly 
but  firmly  declines  to  add  his  or  her 
clothes  to  the  family  washings,  quietly 
calling  in  the  laundry  wagon,  or,  if 
that  be  impossible,  putting  the  gar- 
ments into  a  small  bag  (brought  for 
the  purpose)  and  giving  them  to  the 
washerwoman  as  a  separate  bit  of 
w^ork,  making  a  private  agreement  as 
to  the  price.  The  expense  is  but 
httle  — ■  nothing  at  all  to  be  compared 
with  the  value  of  being  an  agreeable 
guest,  welcome  in  the  kitchen  as  well 
as  in  the  parlor.  If  one  dare  not  or 
cannot  afford  to  "tip"  the  help  in  the 
house,  the  least  she  can  do  is  to  lessen 
their  burden  in  some  such  way  as  this. 
Where  the  hostess  does  her  own  work, 
this  bit  of  thoughtfulness  is  all  the 
more  necessary. 

Even  though  the  hostess  be  a  near 
relative  she  will  appreciate  the  kindl}' 
independence  and  its  motive,  and  the 
visitor  may  prolong  her  stay  without 
feeling  that  the  household  wheels  need 
extra  oil  on  her  account.  l.  m.  c. 


Spring  Diet 

WITH  the  approach  of  spring  and  a 
warm  season,  it  is,  sa^'s  Dr.  Olsen 
in  Good  Health,  desirable  to  modify  the 
diet  somew^hat,  avoiding  the  heavier 
and  more  concentrated  foods,  and 
taking  more  fruit  and  salads  of  various 
kinds.  It  is  a  fact  that  the  require- 
ments of  the  body  vary  to  a  certain 
extent  according  to  the  weather.  Dur- 
ing the  hot  summer  season  but  a  com- 
paratively small  amount  of  food  is  re- 
quired for  the  purpose  of  maintaining 
the  normal  bodily  temperature.  In 
the  coldest  weather  of  T\anter  the  re- 
verse is  the  case,  and  then  one  requires 
ample  nutrition,  and  it  is  proper  to  eat 
more  heartily.  But  if  the  hearty  eating 
is  continued  well  into  springtime, 
when  the  temperature  gets  higher  and 
higher,  it  would  produce  a  surfeiting 
of  the  body  which  would  be  extremely 
undesirable  and  might  produce  un- 
pleasant  disturbances. 

Singing   Kettles 

It  is  said  that  the  Japanese,  so  in- 
genious in  making  curious  and  fasci- 
nating devices  of  every  kind,  manu- 
facture singing  teakettles.  An  iron 
kettle,  otherwise  quite  ordinary,  has 
the  almost  lifelike  characteristic  of 
bursting  into  song  when  the  water  boils. 

The  sounds,  they  say,  are  produced 
by  steam  bubbles  escaping  from  sheets 
of  iron  fastened  across  the  kettle  near 
the  bottom.  Skill  is  required  not  only 
in  making  them,  but  in  regulating  the 
fire  under  them.  These  curious  kettles 
have  been  in  use  many  years. 

To  Distinguish  Old  Milk  from  Fresh 
When  both  are  kept  bottled  in  the 
refrigerator,  turn  the  pasteboard  bottle- 
top  upside  down  in  the  bottle  contain- 
ing left-over  milk,  and  keep  it  right 
side  up  in  the  bottle  con  tain  g  fresh 
milk.  G.  w.  D. 


Items  for  this  department  should  bear  name  and  ad 
dress  of  writer  in  full.  —  Ediior. 


HOME  IDEAS  AND  ECONOMIES 


49 


letin  from  the  United  States  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture  we  are  told  that 
grape  juice  can  be  safely  vSterilized  at 
from  165°  Fahr.  to  176°  Fahr.,  and 
that  at  this  temperature  the  flavor  is 
hardly  changed,  while  it  does  change 
at  a  temperature  above  200°  Fahr. 

The  following  method  of  preparing 
grape  juice  gives  satisfactory  results: 
Crush  the  ripe  grapes.  Pour  them 
into  a  cloth  bag  and  extract  the 
juice  by  twisting  the  bag.  Heat  the 
juice  in  a  double  boiler  or  stone  jar 
in  a  pan  of  water  until  it  steams. 
Pour  the  juice  into  an  enameled  vessel 
to  settle  for  twenty-four  hours.  Drain 
it  carefully  from  the  sediment  and  run 
it  through  a  cone-shaped  filter  made 
from  woolen  cloth.  Then  proceed  as 
you  would  to  can  any  fruit  in  a  wash 
boiler.  Put  a  false  bottom  in  the  boiler 
and  set  the  jars  or  bottles,  filled  to  one 
inch  of  the  top,  in  the  boiler.  Fill  in 
water  within  an  inch  of  the  top  of  the 
jars  or  bottles  and  heat  until  the  juice 
is  about  to  simmer.  Take  out  and  seal 
or  cork  immediately.  Cotton  batting 
tied  over  corks  will  prevent  mold  germs 
entering.  Of  course  the  cans  or  bottles 
must  be  running  over  full  when  sealed. 

*  E.    B. 

HERE  is  a  recipe  for  a  bread  pud- 
ding which  differs  a  little  from 
the  mock  Indian  pudding  given  in  the 
Cooking-School  Magazine  for  Feb- 
ruary, 1905,  and  really  deceived  a  man 
who  is  very  fond  of  baked  Indian  pud- 
ding into  the  belief  that  his  favorite 
dessert  was  before  him.  The  recipe 
is  original,  but  was  suggested  by  your 
own. 

One  cup  of  dry  bread  crumbs;  one 
quart  of  milk;  one-half  a  cup  of  mo- 
lasses; one-third  a  cup  of  granulated 
sugar;  one  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon; 
one-half  a  teaspoonful  of  ginger;  one- 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt;  tw^o  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter;  one  egg. 

Reserve  one  cup  of  milk;  scald  the 
remainder  and  pour  over  the  dry  bread 


crumbs.  Add  the  molasses,  then  the 
sugar  into  which  you  have  stirred  the 
spices  and  salt,  then  add  the  butter, 
cut  into  tiny  bits,  and,  lastly,  the  egg, 
beaten  Hght.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  about  one  hour;  pour  over  it  the 
remaining  cup  of  milk  and  bake  one 
and  one-half  hours  longer.  A  half 
cup  of  raisins  may  be  added  if  desired. 
The  bread  crumbs  in  this  case  contained 
a  large  proportion  of  entire  wheat 
crusts,  w^hich  may  possibly  have  given 
the  pudding  its  especial  excellence. 

Regarding  varying  the  monotony  of 
the  staples,  like  bread  and  potatoes,  too 
much  cannot  be  said.  My  three  grow- 
ing boys  eat  quantities  of  bread  and 
butter,  and  I  find  that  a  change  from 
white  bread,  which  is  our  staple  bread, 
to  entire  wheat  or  oatmeal  bread  (they 
do  not  enjoy  rye  bread)  seems  to  them 
a  great  addition  to  our  usual  bill  of 
fare.  Coffee  cake  makes  a  Sunday 
morning  breakfast  a  feast;  any  change, 
in  fact,  in  the  bread  seems  to  make  a 
more  elaborate  menu.  The  same  en- 
thusiasm prevails,  if  we  change  oc- 
casionally from  plain  boiled  or  mashed 
potatoes  to  potatoes  Hongroise,  French 
fried,  scalloped  or  hashed  brown. 


E.  C.  R. 


IT  is  an  excellent  plan  to  underscore 
with  ink  the  various  ingredients 
in  any  recipe.  This  makes  it  possible 
for  one  to  see  at  a  glance  what  articles 
are  needed,  and  frequently  prevents 
one  from  omitting  something  to  which 
the  success  of  the  dish  is  due. 

Any  dish  in  which  dough  has  been 
prepared  should  be  rinsed  with  cold 
water  before  being  washed,  as  hot  water 
tends  to  cook  the  dough,  making  it 
more  difficult  to  remove.  Fpr  the 
same  reason  run  the  egg  beater  a  second 
or  so  in  cold  water  before  putting  it 
into  the  hot. 

Last  June  we  saw  a  unique  decoration 
of   a   fireplace   at   a   wedding.     Ferns 


50 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


were  planted  in  a  low  box  that  just 
fitted  on  the  grate.  The  box  was 
entirely  covered  with  dark  green  crepe 
paper  so,  of  course,  it  could  hardly  be 
seen.  To  make  the  illusion  still  pret- 
tier, a  large  weather-beaten  log  was 
placed  in  front  of  the  box.  The  ferns 
did  so  well  that  they  formed  a  pretty 
spot  in  the  room  until  cold  weather 
came  and  the  grate  had  to  be  used. 

The  refrigerator  was  so  filled  up 
that  there  was  no  place  for  the  water- 
melon I  wanted  to  ice.  I  reasoned 
that  "where  there  is  a  will  there  is  a 
way,"  and  eventually  found  it  in  a 
two  quart  Mason  jar.  I  cut  the  melon 
into  long,  narrow  slices  that  could  be 
packed  into  the  jar,  and  removed  all 
the  seeds  before  filling  the  can.  After 
being  chilled  in  the  top  of  the  refrigera- 
tor, I  served  the  melon,  cut  into  cubes. 
Now  my  family  does  not  want  it  in 
any  other  way. 

A  small  portable  gas  oven  saves  a 
great  deal  of  fuel.  It  takes  less  gas 
to  run  it  than  the  large  ovens  require 
and  can  be  used  on  the  coal  range  as 
well  as  the  gas.  One  woman  I  know 
puts  two  large  sad-irons  on  top  of  this 
small  oven  to  give  it  greater  stability 
and  keep  it  from  jarring  too  easily, 
which  is  the  principal  cause  of  failures 
in  baking  with  these  contrivances.  By 
putting  anything  to  be  baked  on  the 
grate  near  the  top  of  the  oven  a  kettle, 
whose  contents  have  been  brought  to 
a  boil,  can  be  set  upon  the  bottom 
and  so  one  blaze  made  to  do  the  work 
of  two. 


C.    F. 


Ironing  Help 

DU-RING  the  warm  months  es- 
pecially, and  at  other  times 
when  I  consider  it  advisable,  I  do  not 
iron  such  articles  as  kitchen  towels, 
tea  towels,  every-day  bath-room  towels 
and  washcloths.  AVhen  they  are  nearly 
but  not  quite  dry,  I  take  them  from 


the  line,  fold  them  evenly,  press  with 
the  hands,  and  hang  on  the  clothes- 
horse  to  dry.  They  do  not  look  at  all 
bad  when  folded  neatly  away  or  when 
they  come  to  be  used,  and  much  hard, 
warm  work  has  been  dispensed  with, 
besides  a  saving  of  fuel.  It  is  a  com- 
fort now  to  learn  that  science  ordains 
that  towels  are  better  unironed,  as 
their  absorbent  power  is  greater  when 
the  fibers  are  not  pressed  hard  and  fiat. 

Getting  Rid  of  Flies 

We  do  not  use  screens  in  our  upper 
windows,  yet  are  never  troubled  with 
flies,  and  only  occasionally  by  a 
mosquito.  For  an  hour  each  morning 
the  windows  and  shutters  are  opened 
wide  to  air  and  sun,  but  very  early 
the  rooms  are  put  in  order;  this  means 
that  all  dust  is  carefully  removed,  and 
that  all  crockery  is  dry  and  perfectly 
clean.  Then  the  blinds  are  closed,  and 
the  curtains  partially  drawn,  leaving 
the  room  dark  and  cool  and  sweet  — 
not  at  all  attractive  to  flies.  On  re- 
tiring, we  leave  the  shutters  closed,  and 
use  candles  for  light,  because  they 
give  sufficient  light  without  diffusing 
much  heat  or  attracting  insects.  I 
have  never  been  troubled  with  moths  in 
rooms  so  treated.  I  keep  all  the  house 
rather  dark  during  intense  heat,  as  it 
is  cool  and  refreshing  after  the  hot 
glare  outside,  but  several  times  each 
week  I  let  in  plenty  of  sunshine  to  dis- 
pel any  possible  dampness,  and  there  is 
an  abundance  of  fresh  air  at  all  times. 

Cooperation 

I  had  long  wanted  a  vacimm  cleaner, 
but  two  important  reasons  had  de- 
terred me  from  getting  one  —  the  ex- 
pense, and  the  knowledge  that  in  our 
little  town  I  should  be  continually 
called  upon  to  lend  it,  or  give  offence  bv 
a  refusal.  But  one  day,  while  talking 
with  an  intimate  friend,  we  decided  to 
get  one  together.  This  solved  the  fi- 
nancial problem  for  each  of  us,  as  the 
divided   expense   was  not   great.     We 


QUERIES  AND  ANSWERS 


DO 


may  be  spread  upon  the  cake  and 
stay  in  place.  Flavor  with  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla  extract.  If  too 
much  sugar  be  added,  a  spoonful  or 
two  of  boiling  water  is  the  remedy. 

Ste^imed   Orange   Pudding 

\  a  cup  of  sugar 
Grated  rind  and  juice 
of  half  an  orange 

1  tablespoonful     of 
lemon  juice 

2  tablespoon  fuls     of 
chopped  almonds 

Pour  the  milk  over  the  crumbs  and 

butter  and  let  stand  an  hour.    Beat  the 

eggs;  add  the   sugar  and  beat  again; 

add  fruit  juice  and  almonds  and  mix 

all  together.     Steam  one  hour.     Serve 

with  hard  sauce. 


a    cup    of    scalded 

milk 
a    cup    of    grated 


bread  crumbs 

1  tablespoonful 

butter 

2  eeiis 


of 


Pour  the  milk  over  the  crumbs ;  when 
cool  add  the  suet  mixed  with  the  fruit, 
sugar  and  spices,  then  the  yolks  of  eggs, 
and,  lastly,  the  whites  of  eggs,  beaten 
dry.  Steam  four  hours.  Serve  with 
hard  or  wine  sauce. 


Query   1610. 
Bread." 


Recipe  for  Baked  Brown 


Baked   Brown   Bread 


^  a  cup  of  molasses 
h    a    cup    of    brown 
sugar 

1  cup  of  buttermilk  or 

sour  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls     of 

melted  butter 


1  egg 

1  teaspoonful  of  soda 

J    a    teaspoonful    of 

salt 
1  cvip  of  white  flour 
3     cups     of     graham 
flour 


Bake  from    three-fourths    to   a   full 
hour  in  a  moderate  heat. 


Steamed   Prune   Pudding 


^  a  cup  of  sugar 
1  egg,  beaten  light 
^  a  cup  of  prune  puree 
I  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
I    a  cup  of  milk 


^  a  cup  of  stale  bread 

crumbs 
I  a  cup  of  flour 

1  level  teaspoonful  of 

baking  powder 
^  a  cup  of  fine-chop- 
ped suet  i 

Mix  together  the  crumbs.  Hour  and 
baking  powder,    sviet   and   sugar.      To 
the  beaten  egg  add  the  puree,  salt  and 
milk.     Stir  the  liquid  into  the  dry  in- 
gredients.      Steam    two     hours    in    a 
buttered,  tight-closed  mold.    An  empt" 
baking  powder  box  makes  a  good  mc 
Leave  plenty  of  room  for  the  pudf 
to   swell.      Serve   with   hard   or   li 
sauce.     Other    fruit 
place  of  the  prunes. 

Steamed   Rais...   

2  cups  of  sifted  bread  4   tablespoonf 

crumbs  ,  melted  bi 

1  egg  2  cups  of  mi] 

^  a  cup  of  molasses      '  ^  a  teaspoonf 

1  cup  of  rais 

Steam  three  hours. 


Query   1611.  —  "Recipe  for  ]\Iint  Jelly." 

Mint  Jelly 

Let  one-fourth  a  package  of  gelatine 
stand  for  some  time  in  cold  wntpt-  i-r^ 
cover.       Boil    one    -^ 
sugar  and  " 
six  mi*- 
tine 


Plum   Pudding 


2  cups  of  bread  crumbs 
1  cup  of  scalded  milk 
I  a  cup  of  sugar 
1  teaspoonful  of  salt 
4  yolks  of  eggs 
1  teaspoonful  of  cin- 
namon 


J  a  teaspoor 
of  clo 
mace 
^  a  poimd  c 
^  a  pound  c 
^  a  poimd  c 
4  whites  of 


56 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


of  creme-de-menthe  cordial.  Heat  the 
sugar  in  the  edge  of  the  oven,  leaving 
the  door  open  that  the  sugar  may  not 
bum.  Heat  the  apple  juice  to  the 
boiling  point  as  quickly  as  possible,  and 
let  boil  rapidly,  uncovered,  ten  or 
fifteen  minutes,  skimming  as  needed, 
then  add  the  hot  sugar;  let  boil  again 
and,  when  a  little  jellies  on  a  cold 
saucer,  remove  from  the  fire,  stir  in 
the  cordial  and  green  color-paste  or 
liquid,  to  secure  the  shade  of  green 
desired,  then  turn  into  glasses. 


Query  1612. 
lasses  Cake." 


"Recipe     for     Soft     Mo- 


Rochester  Gingerbread 

Beat  half  a  cup  of  butter  to  a  cream ; 
gradually  beat  in  half  a  cup  of  sugar 
and  one  cup  of  molasses.  Add  two 
eggs,  beaten  very  light,  one  cup  of 
thick,  sour  milk  and  three  cups  of 
sifted  flour,  sifted  again  with  one  tea- 
spoonful  and  a  half  of  soda,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  ginger  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  cinnamon.  Bake  in  a  large  shallow 
pan  or  in  two  brick-loaf  pans. 

r    Strawberry 


Query  1614.  —  "  Recipes  for  Pigs  in  Blan- 
kets and  Rasped  Rolls." 

Pigs  in   Blankets 

Season  choice  large  oysters  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  wrap  each  seasoned 
oyster  in  a  thin  slice  of  fat  bacon. 
Fasten  the  bacon  in  place  with  a  tiny 
wooden  toothpick,  taking  care  not  to 
pierce  the  oyster.  Cook  in  a  hot 
omelet  pan  just  long  enough  to  crisp 
the  bacon. 

Rasped   Rolls 

Scald  two  cups  of  milk  and,  when 
cooled  to  a  lukewarm  temperature, 
add  half  a  cup  of  water  in  which  a 
yeast  cake  has  been  dissolved,  and  stir 
in  about  three  cups  of  sifted  flour. 
Beat  the  mixture  until  very  smooth, 
then  cover  and  let  stand  in  a  tempera- 
ture of  about  70°  Fahr.  until  light  and 
puffy;  now  add  one  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  one-third  a  cup  of  melted,  butter 
or  other  shortening,  and  three  or  four 
cups  of  sifted  flour,  and  stir  these  to  a 
dough.  Knead  the  dough  about  fifteen 
minutes,  or  until  smooth  and  elastic, 
then  cover  and  set  aside  to  become 
doubled  in  bulk.  Shape  into  small 
ovals  of  about  two  ounces  each,  and 
set  in  a  baking  pan  some  distance  apart, 
that  they  may  not  touch  each  other 
in  baking.  When  light  bake  about 
'wenty-five    minutes.      When    baked, 

dth  a  lemon  grater  remove  the  thin, 

ossy    crust    that    completely    covers 

roll,  and  so  leave   a  light   brown, 

ped  exterior.     Where  large  quanti- 

3S  of  these  rolls  are  prepared,  a  ma- 
chine is  used  for  this  purpose.  A  little 
nore  time  is  required  in  using  a  lemon 

'ater,  but  the  result  is  the  same. 


Query  1615.  —  "Recipes  for  Small  Cakes 
or  Crackers  that  require  no  eggs.  Also  for 
the  Coffee  Cake  sold  in  German  Bakeries." 

Oatmeal   Cookies 


1^  cups  of  flour 
3  level  tablespoonfuls 
of  baking  powder 
I  a  cup  of  sugar 
^  a  cup  of  butter 


i  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
Cold  water  to  mix  to 

dough 
Currants  if  desired 


THIS  department  is  for  the  benefit  and  free  use  of  our  subscribers.  Questions  relating 
to  recipes,  and  those  pertaining  to  culinary  science  and  domestic  economics  in 
general,  will  be  cheerfully  ^answered  by  the  editor.  Communications  for  this  department 
must  reach  us  before  the  first  of  the  month  preceding  that  in  which  the  answers  are 
expected  to  appear.  In  letters  requesting  answer  by  mail,  please  enclose  addressed  and 
stamped  envelope.  For  menus  remit  $1.00.  Address  queries  to  Janet  M.  Hill,  editor, 
Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine,  372  Boylston  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


Query  1606.  —  "Why  are  Crullers  often 
filled  with  holes,  and  what  makes  them 
tough?" 

Toughness,  etc.  of  Crullers 

Toughness  and  over-porosity  are  not 
often  found  in  the  same  crullers.  Too 
large  a  proportion  of  leavening  in- 
gredient would  occasion  porosity.  Too 
much  flour  or  milk  containing  no  butter 
fat  (skimmed  milk)  would  occasion 
toughness.  In  the  absence  of  a  special 
recipe  we  are  uncertain  as  to  the  exact 
character  of  the  crullers  referred  to. 
In  the  ordinary  cruller  or  doughnut, 
served  at  the  end  of  breakfast,  we  have 
found  that  shortening  in  the  form  of 
yolks- of  eggs  or  the  creamy  milk  from 
the  top  of  the  milk  bottle  gives  better 
results  than  butter  or  other  shorten- 
ing. In  small,  fancy  crullers,  where  no 
milk  or  similar  liquid  is  called  for, 
melted  butter  gives  good  results.  The 
first  of  the  following  recipes,  published 
in  the  December,  1909,  number  of  the 
magazine,  gives  a  good  breakfast  cruller. 
If  more  convenient,  use  two  whole  eggs 
and  two  extra  yolks  and  a  little  less  of  the 
cream,  adding  a  corresponding  quantity 
of  skimmed  milk.  The  recipe  designated 
crullers  is  from  "Cooking  for  Two." 

Christmas  Doughnuts 
Sift  together  five  cups  of  sifted  flour, 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  level  tea- 


spoonful  of  soda,  two  slightly  rounding 
teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar  and 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  mace. 
Beat  three  eggs;  add  a  cup  of  sugar, 
measured  generously,  three-fourths  a 
cup  of  cream,  poured  from  the  top  of 
a  quart  bottle  or  can  of  milk,  and  a 
scant  fourth  a  cup  of  skimmed  milk; 
mix  together  thoroughly,  then  turn 
into  the  dry  ingredients  and  mix  the 
two  together.  Take  a  small  portion 
upon  a  floured  board,  knead  slightly, 
using  no  more  flour  than  is  necessary, 
cut  into  rings  and  fry  in  hot  fat;  drain 
on  soft  paper  and  roll  in  sifted  powdered 
sugar. . 

Crullers 


1  white  of  egg,  beaten 

dry 
X  a  teaspoonful,  each, 

of  mace  and  salt 
About  1  cup  of  flour 


53 


1  yolk  of  egg,  beaten 

light 
X  a  cup  of  granulated 

sugar 
1    tablespoonful       of 

melted  butter 

Beat  the  sugar  into  the  beaten  3^olk ; 
beat  in  the  butter,  fold  in  the  white 
and  then  beat  in  the  flour  sifted  with 
the  salt  and  mace.  Add  more  flour  if 
needed.  The  dough  must  be  stiff 
enough  to  roll  into  a  sheet  about  one- 
third  an  inch  thick.  Cut  into  rectangu- 
lar pieces  (two  by  three  inches) ,  make 
four  parallel  slits  in  each  equally  dis- 
tant from  each  other  and  the  edges  of 
the  dough  on  all  sides.     Carefully  lift 


54 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


up  the  second  and  fourth  strips,  to 
meet  in  the  center,  and  cook  in  hot  fat 
to  a  golden  brown.  Drain  and  sprinkle 
with  powdered  sugar. 


Query  1G08. 
Cake." 


"Recipe  for  Devil's  Food 


Query  1G07. — "Menu  for  a  Fish  Dinner  to 
be  served  at  the  seashore,  at  a  cost  of  $1.00. 
Woukl  also  like  to  know  the  quantities  of 
meat,  coffee,  tea,  butter,  etc.,  needed  to 
serve  twenty  people  each  day." 

Menu  for  Fish   Dinner 


Clam  Broth 
Broiled  Blue  Fish 
Mashed  Potatoes.     Green  Peas 
Yeast  Rolls 
Lobster  Salad 
Pineapple  Sherbet 
Coffee 

II 

Clam  Chowder 

Bluefish,  Stuffed  and  Baked 

Scalloped  Potatoes.  Cucumbers 

Summer  Squash 

Lobster  Salad 

Sliced  Pineapple 

Coffee 

III 

Clam  Broth 

Broiled  Live  Lobster 

Cucumbers,  French  Dressing 

Baking  Powder  Biscuit 

Bluefish,  Stuffed  and  Baked 

Hollandaise  Sauce 

Mashed  Potatoes.     Boiled  Onions 

Rhubarb  or  Berry  Pie 

Cream  Cheese 

Coffee 

Quantities    of    Food-Stuffs    Needed 
per  Day  for  Twenty  People 

If  the  coffee  be  of  good  strength,  from 
a  pound  to  a  pound  and  a  quarter  will 
be  needed  for  each  meal  at  which  it  is 
to  be  served.  Half  a  pound  of  tea  will 
be  required  for  each  meal.  One  pound 
and  a  quarter  of  butter  will  suffice  for 
breakfast,  the  same  quantit}^  will  be 
needed  at  supper  and  about  a  pound 
at  dinner.  This  is  for  the  table,  and. 
does  not  include  the  butter  for  cooking. 
Half  a  pound  of  raw  meat  is  usually 
allowed  for  each  individual.  A  chicken 
three  pounds  and  one-half  in  weight, 
when  roasted,  is  allowed  for  each  four 
people.  A  four-pound  chicken,  boiled 
or  fricasseed  will  serve  six  people. 


Devil's  Food  Cake 


1  cup  of  light  brown 
sugar 

\  a  pound  of  choco- 
late 

^     a     cup     of     milk 

1  QgS 

^  a  cup  of  butter 
1    cup   of   granulated 
sugar 


A  a  cup  of  milk 

2^  cups  of  sifted  pas- 
try flour 

3  level  teaspoonfuls 
of  baking  powder 

2  eggs,  beaten  sepa- 
rately 

1  tablespoonful  of 
warm  water 


Melt  the  chocolate,  add  the  sugar 
and  the  milk  and  cook  to  a  smooth 
paste ;  then  add  the  egg,  beaten  without 
separating  the  white  and  yolk,  and  set 
aside  to  cool.  Beat  the  butter  to  a 
cream;  gradually  beat  in  the  sugar, 
the  yolks  of  eggs,  and,  alternately,  the 
milk  and  flour,  sifted  with  the  baking 
powder;  then  add  the  whites  of  eggs, 
beaten  dry,  the  cold  chocolate  mixture 
and  the  warm  water.  Bake  in  two 
layers  twenty-five  or  thirty  minutes. 
Put  the  layers  together  and  cover  the 
outside  with  boiled  icing. 


Query  1609.  —  "Recipes  for  inexpensive 
Chocolate  Loaf  Cake  baked  in  pan  two  to 
three  inches  deep  and  covered  with  white 
icing,  also  for  Steamed  Puddings,  using  bread 
crumbs." 

Moist  Chocolate  Cake 

If 


teaspoonfuls     of 

baking  powder 
a    teaspoonful    of 

cinnamon 
a    teaspoonful    of 

mace 
a    teaspoonful     of 
cloves 
Whites     of     2     eggs, 

beaten  dry 


^  a  cup  of  butter 
I  a  cup  of  sugar 
Yolks  of  2  eggs 
^  a  cup  of  sugar 
^  a  cup  of  hot  mashed 

potato 
1  ounce  of  chocolate, 

melted 
J  a  cup  of  sweet  milk 
1  cup  of  sifted  flour 

Cream  the  butter  and  beat  in  the  first 
half  cup  of  sugar ;  beat  the  yolks  of  eggs 
and  beat  in  the  second  half  cup  of  sugar 
and  beat  the  two  mixtures  together; 
add  the  potato  and  chocolate  and  finish 
in  the  usual  manner. 

Confectioners'   Frosting 
Boil  one-fourth  a  cup,  each,  of  granu- 
lated  sugar  and  boiling  water  about 
four  minutes,  then  stir  in  sifted  con- 
fectioners' sugar  to  make  a  paste  that 


Dishes  for  Automobile  and  Picnic 
Luncheons 

I. 

Terrine-of-Chicken  and  Ham 

Cold  Jellied  Chicken  Pie 

Cold  Jellied  Tongue 

Cold  Boiled  Ham,  Sliced  Thin 

Cold  Chicken-and-Ham  Rissoles 

Boned  Loin  of  Lamb,  Roasted,  Cooled,  Sliced  Thin 

Slices  of  Cold  Roast  Lamb  in  Mint  Jelly 

Cold  Broiled  Lamb  Chops,  Paper  Frills  on  Bones 

Cold  Creamed  Chicken  in  Puff  Cases 

Salmon-and-Green  Pea  Salad 

Potato-and-Egg  Salad 
Stringless  Bean-and-Egg  Salad 
Deviled  Ham  Sandwiches 
Cheese-and-Pecan  Xut  Sandwiches 
Bacon  Sandwiches 
Noisette  Sandwiches 
Pimento-and-Cream  Cheese  Sandwiches 
Corned  Beef-and-Mustard  Sandwiches 
Peanut  Butter-and-Olive  Sandwiches 
Lady  Finger  Rolls 
Parker  House  Rolls 
Rye  Biscuit 
Apple  Turnovers.      Banbury  Tarts.     Jelly  Tarts 
Grape-fruit  Marmalade.     Currant  Jelly 
Gherkins.     Melon  Mangoes 

Cold  Coffee.     Hot  Coffee 

Grape  Juice.     Pineappleade 

Lemonade 


The 
Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


Vol.  XV 


August-September,  19  io 


Xo. 


Quaint  Customs  and  Toothsome  Damties 


By  Frances   R.   Sterrett 


POPULAR  hotels  and  big  cafes 
are  much  the  same  the  world 
over,  whether  you  find  them  in 
Xew  York,  Paris,  Cairo  or  Calcutta. 
There  is  the  same  staff  of  uniformed, 
expectant  servants,  the  same  glitter- 
ing decorations  and  appointments,  the 
orchestra  plays  the  same  selections, 
and  the  throng  of  well-dressed  guests 
looks  as  though  it  might  have  been 
transported  bodily  from  one  to  the 
other.  Love  of  variety  sends  the 
traveler,  away  from  all  this  glare  and 
glitter,  to  some  quaint  resort  that  had  its 
group  of  patrons  when  the  United  States 
was  young,  and  which  still  retains  many 
of  the  customs  that  were  features  of  the 
common  life  a  century  or  more  ago,  and 
that  now  are  so  unusual  that  they  prove 
strong  magnets  for  the  tourist. 

Nearly  everybody  who  goes  to  Lon- 
don finds  his  way,  sooner  or  later,  to 
Ye  Olde  Cheshire  Cheese  in  Wine 
(Office  Court.  Tucked  away,  as  it  is, 
just  off  of  Fleet  Street,  it  presents  any- 
thing but  a  pretentious  appearance 
and  more  than  one  party  of  timid 
American    women    has    hurried  away, 


disappointed  at  sight  of  its  dingy 
court.  But  the  dinginess  is  all  on  the 
outside;  within,  there  is  light  and 
warmth,  and  cheery  greeting.  The 
Cheese  was  a  coffee  house  beloved  by 
Samuel  Johnson,  and  the  chair  in  which 
the  great  man  sat,  night  after  night, 
while  busy  Boswell  listened  and  took 
copious  notes  of  the  interchange  of 
wits,  is  still  there,  standing  now 
beneath  the  big  portrait  of  Dr.  Johnson 
that  hangs  on  one  side  of  the  fireplace. 
Oliver  Goldsmith  was  also  a  regular 
patron  of  the  Cheese,  which  is  one  of 
the  few  meeting  places  of  the  literati 
of  the  eighteenth  century  that  still 
remain.  Indeed,  these  old  relics  of  the 
past  are  fast  disappearing.  Five  years 
ago,  when  I  first  visited  the  Cheese, 
the  waiter,  impressed  with  my  interest 
in  the  old  associations,  asked  if  I  would 
care  to  see  the  house  in  which  Johnson 
lived.  It  was  near  at  hand,  but  he 
said  emphatically,  "You'll  have  to 
hurry  for  they  are  tearing  it  down  at 
this  minute."  Hurry  we  did  and 
arrived  in  time  to  see  the  dismantling 
of  the  last  row  of  windows. 


60 


THE    BOSTON    COOKIXG-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Ye  Olde  Cheese  is  too  good  a  source 
of  revenue  for  it  to  be  destroyed,  and 
the  prospects  are  that  for  years  to 
come  Americans  will  flock  there  to 
exclaim  over  the  high  paneled  walls 
and  the  sanded  floors.  The  tables  still 
stand  between  high-backed  benches, 
over  which  the  newspapers  are  hung, 
as  they  were  in  Johnson's  day.  The 
old  grill  is  on  the  second  floor,  and  over 
its  gleaming  coals  innumerable  kidneys 
and  chops  have  been  brought  to  culi- 
nary perfection.  Beefsteak  pudding, 
which  is  served  on  Wednesday's,  with 
all  the  pomp  and  ceremony  of  ancient 
days,  is  an  attraction  that  fills  the 
tables  and  sends  away  dozens  of 
envious  men  and  women,  who  can  get 
no  more  than  a  sniff  of  the  Old  English 
dish,  as  it  is  borne  in  triumph  through 
the  rooms.  Other  days  have  their 
speciaHties.  but  it  is  the  beefsteak 
pudding  that  is  the  favorite,  and  if 
you  delay  your  arrival,  the  prospects 
are.  you  will  have  to  be  satisfied  with 
a  kidney  or  a  chop,  for  not  a  scrap  of 
pie  is  ever  left. 


But  with  toasted  cheese  to  follow, 
the  kidney  is  not  a  bad  substitute,  and 
it  brings  with  it,  also,  a  flavor  of 
Dickens  and  Thackeray,  whose  heroes 
dined  frequently  on  such  fare.  With 
the  luncheon  comes  Devonshire  cider, 
another  speciality  of  the  house,  if  you 
do  not  care  for  beer  or  ale,  but  beer  or 
cider  is  served  in  reproductions  of  the 
pewter  mugs  that  Dr.  Johnson  drank 
from,  and,  for  a  consideration,  you  can 
carry  one  away,  wrapped  in  an  odd 
bag  of  woven  reeds. 

The  visitors'  book  at  the  Cheese 
makes  interesting  reading  while  3-ou 
wait  for  your  chop,  for  it  is  embellished 
with  pen  drawings  by  the  famous 
artists  of  the  world,  and  enriched  with 
sentiments  from  poets,  novelists,  musi- 
cians, politicians,  capitalists,  and  others 
whose  names  are  known  on  more  than 
one  continent. 

Buszard's  on  Oxford  Street  is  not  as 
familiar  to  Americans,  but  it  has  an 
interest  of  its  own,  for  it  has  made 
wedding  cakes  for  royalty  for  many 
years,  and  the  models  displayed  in  the 


A'e  Old  Cheshire  Cheese,  A  Coffee   House   Beloved  by  Samuel   Johnson" 


QUAIXT  CUSTOMS  AND  TOOTHSOME  DAINTIES 


61 


show-room  form  an  amusing  exhibition 
to  the  American  who  has  little  idea  of 
what  a  royal  wedding  cake  should  be. 
There  they  stand  six  or  seven  feet  tall 
and  in  as  many  tiers,  each  ornamented 
with  almond  icing,  inches  thick,  and 
sugar  piping,  with  coats  of  arms  and 
heraldic  devices,  and  bearing  on  top 
a  sugar  temple  surmounted  by  doves 
and  other  hymeneal  emblems. 

The  account  of  a  fashionable  wedding 
in  the  English  society  papers  usually 
closes  with  the  line,  "Cake  b}^  Buszard  " 
or  Bolland,  for  Buszard  in  London  and 
BoUand  in  Chester  make  most  of  the 
wedding  cakes  that  are  served  in 
England,  and  they  send  hundreds  of 
them  to  the  colonies,  so  that  the 
English  bride,  even  if  she  be  far  from 
home,  can  have  "Cake  by  Buszard." 

And  most  delectable  cake  it  is,  too, 
and  if  you  wander  into  the  heavily 
furnished,  rather  gloomy  tea-room  at 
the  tea  hour,  you  will  find  it  well  filled 
with  city  and  country  people  and  a 
sprinkling  of  foreigners  who  are  par- 
taking of  the  conventional  afternoon 
refreshment  where  their  grandparents 
or  great  grandparents,  perhaps,  were 
refreshed.  Tea  for  two  shillings  allows 
you  to  eat  all  the  cake  you  wish,  but 
unfortunately  physical  limitations  pre- 
vent you  from  trying  half  of  the 
delicious  confections  in  the  tray  beside 
you,  the  almond  pound,  Dundee,  Ma- 
deria  simnel,  rich  currant,  muscatel, 
green  ginger,  cheese  cakes  and  Scotch 
short  bread,  all  made  from  ancient 
recipes.  It  is  difficult  to  choose  a 
favorite,  although  the  Scotch  short 
bread  never  tastes  quite  the  same  as 
it  does  in  one  of  the  popular  tea 
rooms  on  Princes  Street  in  Edinburgh. 

Newhaven,  just  outside  of  Edinburgh, 
used  to  be  more  famous  for  its  fish 
dinners  than  it  is  now  and,  perhaps, 
you  will  find  no  other  party  in  the 
hotel  coffee  room  where  at  least  four 
kinds  of  fried  fish,  no  one  of  which  you 
can  find  on  this  side  of  the  water,  are 
served  for  a  shilling,  sixpence.     New- 


From  the  Coffee-Room  Window  you  can 
SEE  THE  Quaint  Xewhaven  Fishwives 

haven  is  visited  for  its  picturesque 
fishwives;  and  the  women  look  more 
as  though  they  had  just  been  brought 
from  Holland  than  as  descendants  of 
Scandinavians  who  crossed  in  the  time 
of  James  IV.  They  have  been  singu- 
larly conservative  in  their  habits,  and, 
owing  to  a  strict  custom  of  inter- 
marriages, there  are  only  a  few  names 
to  be  found  in  this  colony  of  fisher 
folk,  who  have  to  resort  to  nicknames 
for  identification. 

If  you  are  a  tourist  of  the  feminine 
gender,  you  will  probably  stop  at  the 
Globe  Inn,  in  Dumfries,  for  a  lemon 
squash,  or  a  ginger  ale,  although  you 
may  be  brave  enough  to  ask  the  ros}^- 
cheeked  landlady  for  a  small  glass  of 
what  Robert  Bums  used  to  order;  for 
the  Globe  Inn  is  the  Burns'  Howft',  and 
down  its  narrow  court  the  poet  slipped 
nightly  to  the  brightly-lighted  room 
where  his  companions  waited.  The 
chair  in  which  the  poet  lolled  is  still 
there,    and   a   right   stout   affair  it   is, 


62 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


and  with  stout  arms.  It  is  kept 
securely  locked  behind  wooden  doors, 
and  the  landlady  made  a  great  cere- 
mony of  opening  them  and  insisted  on 
each  of  us  trying  the  capacious  seat. 

"Perhaps  you  write  poetry  your- 
self?" she  asked;  but  we  had  to  confess 
that  we  felt  no  more  gifted  with 
rhymes  in  Bums'  chair  than  in  our 
own  inglenook  in  America,  and  followed 
her  up  the  stairs  to  the  old-time  room 
filled  with  reHcs. 

"Americans  come  a  long  way  to  see 
these  old  pieces,"  she  said,  as  she 
motioned  majestically  to  a  punch  bowl, 
and  then  moved  to  the  window  on 
whose  pane  the  poet  had  written  the 
verses  to  "The  Lovely  Polly  Stewart." 
"You  seem  to  think  a  sight  of  Bums? 
There  was  one  American  gentleman 
who  offered  me  a  pot  of  money,  if  I 
would  let  him  take  the  Howff  to  a  fair  in 
America,  but  I  make  a  tidy  living  out 
of  it  here  and  God  knows  if  we  would 
ever  live  to  cross  the  ocean.  Bums  lived 
and  died  here,  and  what  would  do  for 
him   will    do    for   me,"  humbly. 

There  are  many  colleges  in  Oxford, 
but  at  no  one  of  them  is  the  tourist 
supposed  to  find  refreshment  in  the 
dining  halls,  so  that  it  was  something 
of  a  triumph  to  be  given  a  tart  in  one 
of  the  quaint  old  kitchens.  The  tart 
was  really  a  tribute  to  an  interest  in 
the  pantry  shelves  which  were  filled 
with  pastry,  and  in  the  explanatory 
list  that  hung  beside  them.  Tarts  have 
been  made  in  the  same  fashion  at  this 
Oxford  college  for  several  hundred 
years,  in  order,  the  cook  explained,  with 
a  twinkle  in  his  eye,  that  the  students 
might  get  what  they  wanted,  when 
they  slipped  down  on  a  night  tart  raid. 
It  is  the  nick  in  the  edge  that  has  told 
generations  of  students  the  contents 
of  the  tart;  an  apple  has  only  one  nick, 
a  mince  has  two  at  each  end,  a  goose- 
berry three,  and  so  on  until  a  student 
who  has  learned  the  rule  can  choose  his 
favorite  in  the  dark. 

Winchester,    the    old    royal    city    of 


England,  has  so  many  places  of  interest, 
the  cathedral,  the  famous  Winchester 
school,  the  castle,  in  which  hangs  King 
Arthur's  round  table  as  it  has  hung  for 
several  hundred  years,  that  the  traveler 
who  is  there  but  for  a  day  may  not  have 
time  to  share  the  wayfarer's  dole  at 
St.  Cross  hospital  which  is  distributed 
today  just  as  Bishop  Henry  de  Blois, 
a  grandson  of  William  the  Conqueror, 
arranged  almost  eight  hundred  years 
ago.  This  wayfarer's  dole  consists  of 
a  horn  of  ale  and  piece  of  white  bread, 
and  anyone  who  knocks  at  the  hatch- 
way of  the  porter's  gate  is  entitled  to 
receive  it.  About  thirty  wayfarers  are 
given  it  daily  as  well  as  many  notable 
people  and  curious  travelers  who  knock 
at  the  door  for  the  novelty  of  sharing 
in  a  picturesque  survival  of  a  mediaeval 
charity.  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson  wrote 
of  his  experience,  "Just  before  entering 
Winchester  we  stopped  at  the  Church 
of  St.  Cross,  and  after  looking  through 
the  quaint  antiquity  we  demanded  a 
piece  of  bread  and  a  draught  of  ale, 
which  the  founder,  Henry  de  Blois,  in 
1136,  commanded  should  be  given  to 
everyone  who  should  ask  it  at  the  gate. 
We  had  both  from  the  old  couple  who 
take  care  of  the  church." 

When  you  are  in  Paris  you  must  not 
forget  Rumpelmeyer,  the  "king  of 
pastry  makers."  His  shop  is  unpre- 
tentious, considering  his  vogue,  and  the 
room  is  all  too  small  on  a  pleasant  after- 
noon for  the  throng  which  would  in- 
vade it.  There  are  representatives  from 
the  far  corners  of  the  world.  Americans 
are  all  about  you;  at  the  next  table  is 
a  Russian  grand  duchess,  perhaps,  with 
her  caveliers;  nearer  the  wall  sits  a 
woman  from  the  Orient,  whose  soft  silk 
draperies  are  in  strange  contrast  to  the 
modish  Parisiennes ;  a  group  of  children 
chatter  of  South  Africa  to  their  attend- 
ants and  two  natives  from  India  have 
not  doffed  their  spotless  white  turbans. 

Rumpelmeyer's  might  be  considered 
a  glorified  cafeteria,  and  the  great 
moment  of  your  visit  to  the    cafe  is 


QUAINT    CUSTOMS  AXD  PICTURESQUE  DAINTIES 


63 


when  you  have  taken  the  fork  and 
plate  from  the  smiling  maid,  and  stand 
hesitating  beside  the  table  laden  with 
cakes.     And  such  cakes!     Fluff a'  balls 


sweetmeats  in  every  appetizing  form, 
until  it  is  difficult  to  make  a  choice. 
At  last  Avith  plate  laden  you  find  your 
wav  to  the  table  Avhere  something:  new 


Sharing  ix  a   Pictures 


EDI.E\'AL   L  HARITY 


rolled  in  chocolate  and  cocoanut,  maple 
crescents,  diamonds  of  paste  enriched 
Avith  French  fruits,  tiny  tarts  filled 
AAdth  glaced  cherries,  half  an  apricot 
or  a  plum;  cornets  heaped  AA^th  cream 
of  pistachio  or  straAvberries,  pastry  and 


in  ices,  cool  or  hot  drinks,  is  serA'ed. 
And  as  you  go  aAvay,  you  cast  a  linger- 
ing glance  at  the  patisserie  table  and 
plan  to  come,  again  and  again,  until 
you  haA^e  tried  every  kind,  not  knoAA'ing 
that  ncAv  confections  are  offered  CA'ery 


04 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


few  days  to  make  such  a  plan  almost 
an  impossibility. 

In  strange  contrast  to  the  smart 
Parisian  cafe  is  the  Hotel  Spaander  in 
quaint  Volendam,  and  if  it  is  not  the 
season  you  may  be  alone  on  the  piazza 
which  is  swept  by  the  bracing  winds 
from  the  Zuyder  Zee,  and  where  the 
picturesque  hospitable  people  give  you 
a  cordial  greeting.  And  palatable  as 
were  the  marvelous  cakes  of  Paris,  they 
were  no  better  than  the  Dutch  raisin 
bread,  Edam  cheese  and  mild  beer  that 
forms  your  luncheon.  Volendam  is  but 
next  door  to  Edam,  the  home  of  the 
popular  cheeses,  and  the  thin  shavings 


The  Hospitable  People  of  Volendam 

seem  to  have  been  made  to  accompany 
the  delicious  raisin  bread  of  Holland. 
The  Spaander  is  a  popular  rendezvous 
for  artists,  and  the  big  rooms  have  been 
adorned  with  paintings  and  sketches 
by  the  men  and  women  who  have 
enjoyed  its  hospitaHty.  The  bright- 
faced  girl,  who  serves  you,  was  taught 
to  speak  English,  perhaps,  by  some 
artist  who  may  be  a  member  of  the 
British  Royal  Academy  now,  and  she 
loves  to  tell  you  of  the  notable  people 
who  have  come  and  gone,  and  she  fairly 
carries  you  away  to  see  the  homes  of 
the  fisher  folk.  She  explains  their 
marvelous  clothes,  and  declares  that 
the  huge  silver  buttons  worn  by  the 
men  and  boys  were  used  as  a  mark  of 
identification  in  case  of  drowning,  for 
each   district  in   Holland  has  its  own 


design.  She  calls  your  attention  to 
the  old  china,  pewter  and  brass,  and 
giggles  approval  when  you  pass  the 
school  and  slip  a  copper  into  each  of 
the  wooden  shoes  at  the  door. 

Everybody  takes  at  least  one  ice  at 
Florian's  on  St.  Mark's  Square  in 
Venice  for  at  Florian's  you  are  sure 
to  see  the  world  and  his  wife,  especially, 
if  you  are  there  on  a;n  evening  when  the 
band  plays  in  the  square.  Florian's 
ices  are  world  renowned,  and  its 
patrons  are  as  cosmopolitan  as  Rum- 
pelmeyer's,  and,  as  you  eat  your  way 
through  the  pink  or  chocolate  cone  of 
sweetness,  you  will  find  the  price  of  it 
in  the  bottom  of  the  dish.  There  is  no 
room  for  argument  over  the  charge,  for 
in  the  bottom  of  every  dish,  in  plain 
figures,  is  its  cost,  two  francs  or  two 
francs,  fifty.  And  after  you  have  paid 
the  reckoning,  the  waiter  turns  over 
the  dish  as  a  sign  that  your  debt  is 
canceled,  and  you  are  at  liberty  to 
sit  and  Hsten  to  the  music  and  watch 
the  people  for  as  long  as  you  wish. 

Nearly  every  European  city  has  a 
cafe  or  a  restaurant  that  is  of  special 
interest,  not  because  of  its  smart 
patronage  or  high  prices,  but  for  its 
quaint  customs,  old  dishes  or  drinks, 
and  it  varies  the  routine  of  galleries 
and  historic  buildings  to  hunt  them 
out.  They  add  a  spice,  a  zest,  to  what 
might  become  rather  a  dreary  round 
of  sight  seeing,  for  no  one  appreciates 
the  old  customs  more  than  the  Ameri- 
can. There  are  some  travelers  who 
make  a  point  of  stopping  at  the  Three 
Tuns  in  Durham,  no  more  to  see  Dur- 
ham's beautiful  cathedral,  if  the  truth 
were  told,  than  to  have  the  trim  maid 
bring  them  a  tiny  glass  of  cherry 
brandy  to  "drink  to  the  health  of  the 
house,"  a  custom  that  was  young  two 
hundred  years  or  more  ago,  although  it 
must  be  confessed  that,  while  the  cus- 
tom has  been  retained,  the  glasses  that 
hold  the  delicious  cordial  are  con- 
siderably smaller  than  they  were  in  the 
days  when   the  request  was  first  made. 


Being  Married 

By  Mrs.   Chas.   Norman 


THE  morning  paper  tells  of  a  man 
and  Yv'oman  who  got  married 
after  only  a  few  hours'  acquaint- 
ance. Unfortunately,  this  couple  can- 
not claim  to  have  done  anything 
unique.  Numerous  persons  have  done 
likewise  —  at  least  the  newspapers  say 
so  —  though  the  statement  is  one  which 
makes  upon  a  sane  mind  an  impression 
of  confusion.  I  say  confusion,  not  to 
mention  other  effects. 

After  reading  the  announcement,  I 
looked  into  the  dictionary  to  see  if  it 
oould  be  true,  and  I  judge  it  is  possible. 
Marriage,  according  to  Webster,  is  the 
act  which  unites  the  man  and  woman, 
and,  while  it  seems  impossible  for  a  real 
union  to  take  place  in  so  brief  a  time, 
still  there  is  probably  no  other  way  of 
telHng  in  the  English  language  what 
has  occurred.  It  might  well  happen 
that  the  persons  so  hastily  "joined" 
should  become  married  in  the  course 
of  time.  Certain  me.tals  really  mix  and 
stick  together  even  after  the  heat  of 
welding  has  died  out,  but  no  mere 
ceremony  can  unite,  though  it  be  per- 
formed by  the  hoHest  of  ministers  or 
the  most  profound  legal  interpreter. 

And,  as  it  is  impossible  for  any  third 
person  to  "unite"  man  and  woman, 
so  it  is  out  of  the  question  for  any  third 
person  to  give  any  ligitimate  advice  as 
to  whether  or  not  the  man  and  woman 
should  unite,  unless  by  chance  the 
third  person  discovers  that  the  real 
union  or  disunion  already  exists. 

An  ambitious  young  lady  stopped  to 
see  me  on  her  way  to  New  York. 
She  was  about  to  sail  for  Europe,  and 
she  told  me,  confidentially,  that  she 
was  engaged  to  marry  a  clerg}^man  of 
this  country,  and  that  she  "might 
marry  him,"  if  she  failed  to  get  a 
certain  position  she  hoped  for  in  Paris. 

I  could  not  refrain  from  saying,  "Do 


not  marry,"  and  she  took  it  that  I  was 
either  averse  to  matrimony  or  to  the 
young  man.  Such  supposition  was  in- 
correct. I  simply  dishked  to  see  any 
man  irrevokably  tied  to  a  woman  who 
took  him  only  because  she  could  not 
get  something  else. 

I  explained  this  to  the  girl,  but  it 
did  no  good.  She  said  I  was  "senti- 
mental and  not  at  all  practical."  I 
confessed  to  a  little  sentiment  on  the 
subject  of  wedlock,  and  refrained  from 
adding  that  I  should  rather  be  truthful 
than  practical,  but  I  told  her  that,  if 
she  had  accepted  her  lover,  condition- 
ally, her  course  was  entirely  honorable, 
and  then,  to  relieve  the  heaviness  of  the 
conversation,  I  repeated  these  lines, 
which  she  laughed  at  very  moderately 
indeed: 

"I,  Pegg   Pudding,   promise    thee,    William 

Crickett, 
That  I  will  hold  thee  for  mine  own  dear  lily, 
Whilst  I  have  a  head  in  mine  eye  and  a  face 

on  my  nose, 
A  mouth  in  my  tongue  and  all  that  a  woman 

should  have, 
From  the  crown  of  my  foot  to  the  sole  of  my 

head." 

The  attention  of  my  guest  flagged  a 
little  and,  when  I  completed  the  stanza, 
she  confessed  she  was  thinking  of  a 
Philadelphia  girl  whose  resolution  she 
much  admired.  During  a  sojourn  in 
Europe,  this  girl  had  refused  sixty-five 
offers  of  marriage  —  I  hope  I  have  the 
number  exactly  right  —  having  deter- 
mined to  marry  no  one  of  lower  rank 
than  a  prince. 

I  sped  m}^  guest  to  Xew  York  and 
Europe,  and  after  her  departure  no 
ghost  needed  to  come  from  the  grave 
to  tell  me  why  marriage  is  so  often  a 
failure.  We  hear  this  thing  and  that 
thing  given  as  a  reason.  Responsibility 
enough  is  to  be  laid  at  the  door  of  men, 
but  let  women  confess  a  share  in  the 


65 


66 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


desecration  of  the  sacred  ordinance. 
Is  it  possible  to  think  of  a  marriage 
resulting  well  that  does  not  begin  in 
truth,  and  continue  in  truth? 

Let  truth,  at  least,  be  counted  an 
essential.  After  truth,  let  the  candi- 
date consider  the  necessit}^  of  sacrifice. 
Present-day  girls  cannot  claim  much 
more  of  that  element  than  boys.  If 
modem  women  have  a  hobby  more 
general  than  another,  it  must  be  the 
development  of  their  individualit}^ 
This  is  a  fine  thing,  but  let  those  who 
are  over-zealous  on  this  point  remain 
single  or  remain  rational,  for  it  is 
scarcely  fair  to  develop  one's  individu- 
ality to  the  extinction  of  another 
person's  rights.  To  speak  the  truth, 
a  proper  individuality  is  never  oblivious 
to  others.  Women  would  be  learned 
and  wise,  but  they  fail  to  see  that  the 
very  richest  return  of  wisdom  comes 
from  putting  forth  their  full  strength 
where  it  is  due.  God  has  provided  that 
recompense  for  all  dutiful  activity,  and 
it  often  happens  that  the  circumstances 
that  would  seem  to  retard  mental 
development  are  its  greatest  stimuli, 
and  the  saving  of  the  much-cherished 
individuality  is  accomplished  by  self- 
forgetfulness. 

Marriage  is  one  of  the  apparent  inter- 
ruptions to  intellectual  progress  — 
especially  a  woman's.  We  often  hear 
of  the  fine  career  a  certain  person 
might  have  had,  unmarried.  Such  talk 
signifies  nothing. 

In  the  first  place,  age  does  not  alwa3^s 
fulfill  the  promises  of  youth.  ^lany  a 
young  man  has  started  well  in  life  and 
failed  through  no  fault  of  his  com- 
panion. A  discerning  man  -^ill  not  be 
apt  to  choose  a  frivolous  woman, 
though  we  often  hear  the  contrary. 
A  bright  girl,  though  she  may  remain 
single  and  devote  herself  to  herself, 
is   not    sure     of    a    successful    career. 


Some  womanly  virtues  are  certainly 
fostered  best  in  a  home.  Love  is,  to 
many  women,  what  the  tropics  are  to 
vegetation.  On  the  other  hand,  there 
are  women  who  seem  to  be  created  for 
public  benefactions  and  isolated  labors. 

Concentration  in  any  line  of  business 
is  bound  to  bring  definite  results,  but 
definite,  tangible  results  may  not  be 
the  best  results.  A  man  who  assumes 
some  domestic  responsibility  must 
abridge  his  public  services,  and,  as  it 
is  only  public  services  that  make  a 
show,  his  life  seems  less  valuable. 

''I  like  you  better  since  you  married," 
said  a  frank  old  lady  to  a  young  man, 
and  he  laughed  and  answered: 

"  I  used  to  know  a  great  many  things, 
but  they  were  all  wrong,  every  one  of 
them!  It  takes  a  sensible  wife  to 
straighten  out  a  man's  mental  dis- 
tortions." Doubtless  his  wife  could 
have  reversed  the  compliment. 

The  pictures  of  unhappy  marriages 
are  hung  in  every  household  which  the 
American  press  can  possibly  reach: 
the  good  marriages  attract  no  atten- 
tion. Natural  reverence  prevents  those 
who  know  anything  about  them  from 
telling  what  they  know.  We  do  not 
talk  glibly  of  God's  love.  The  theme 
is  sacred.  Just  as  sacred,  and  very 
personal,  is  the  other  subject.  No  man 
of  sense,  who  loves  his  wife,  says  much 
about  it,  even  to  his  intimate  friends. 
What  adult,  with  reason,  goes  about 
seeking  advice  upon  matrimony? 

Marriage  is  for  persons  of  mature 
minds,  and  it  is  absolutely  an  in- 
dividual matter,  each  case  deciding 
itself.  Let  those  who  doubt  concern- 
ing matrimony  stay  out  of  it.  Let  those 
who  are  already  in  it,  remember  that 
it  is  a  solemn  compact  between  two 
persons  and  that  any  action  is  un- 
becoming and  inconsistent  which  does 
not  result  to  the  advantage  of  both. 


^''^=:^.^P^:^^^.,^:==^n) 


The  Regeneration  of  Podunk 

By  Phoebe  D.  Roulon 


JACK  and  I  arrived  at  Podunk 
just  in  "strawberry  time."  Did 
you  ever  stop  to  considcx*  what  a 
mandatory  phrase  "strawberry  time" 
is?  Jack  and  I  did  to  the  fullest,  for 
from  one  end  of  Podunk  highway  to 
the  other,  in  every  farmstead  that  was 
the  happy  possessor  of  a  strawberry 
patch,  the  proclamation  had  gone 
forth  that  berries  were  ripe  and  must 
be  "done  up"  at  once.  There  is  no 
such  thing  as  procrastinating  with 
Nature,  especially  in  her  fruit  depart- 
ment. Infinite  in  patience,  unsparing 
in  pains  from  the  first  inception  of  the 
berry  to  its  maturity,  when  once  her 
creative  work  is  accomplished,  she 
lays  the  finished  product  at  your  feet 
and  henceforth  waives  all  responsi- 
bility. Put  off  until  tomorrow  what 
should  have  been  "done  up"  today 
and  Nature  will  seek  vengeance  upon 
you  and  show  you  your  folly.  Mrs. 
Simpkins  might  better  save  her  breath 
than  to  enter  the  protest  that  she 
cannot  possibly  "can"  today,  for  the 
minister  and  family  are  coming  to 
dinner.  Nature  makes  no  exception 
for  even  the  clergy.  When  Mrs.  Hope- 
well declares  she  must  take  her  butter 
and  eggs  to  market  today  and  so  can- 
not do  another  stroke  of  work  after 
one  o'clock.  Nature  simply  smiles 
complacentl}^  from  the  four  corners 
of  every  ruddy  berry  basket  and  says, 
"Take  me  now  in  my  perfection,  for 
tomorrow  it  will  have  passed  away. " 
In  obedience  to  this  inexorable  law 
Podunk  was  making  ready.  Brass 
kettles  were  being  scoured  and  granite 
ones  were  coming  forth  from  their 
winter  hiding  places.  With  one  accord 
Podunk  was  becoming  a  huge  canning 
and  preserving  factory,  with  as  many 
annexes  as  there  were  houses  with 
berry  patches. 


Day  after  day  the  process  went  on, 
for  day  after  day  a  fresh  supply  de- 
manded attention. 

Overworked  and  tired  housewives 
groaned  in  spirit  and  slept  in  meeting 
as  a  result.  Everybody's  nerves  were 
a  little  on  the  bias  until  the  straw- 
berries were  settled  for  the  winter.  To 
a  casual  observer  it  seemed  as  if 
Nature's  lavishness  had  outrun  Po- 
dunk's  gratitude,  and  as  if  strawberries 
were  becoming  a  nuisance. 

As  I  said.  Jack  and  I  arrived  just  at 
this  crisis  in  the  farm  life  of  Podunk. 
Indeed,  within  an  hour  after  we  landed, 
and  amid  the  chaos  of  unpacking,  a 
gentle  maiden  tapped  at  our  kitchen 
door  and  importuned  us  to  buy  some 
preserving  berries. 

Jack  has  a  sweet  tooth  and  I  saw 
at  a  glance  that  he  had  not  missed  the 
vision  of  rows  of  red  jars  on  the  swing- 
ing shelf  in  the  cellar,  and  Sunday 
night  teas  of  jam,  long  after  the  last 
strawberry  had  ripened  and  decayed. 
But  he  desisted  and  let  her  depart 
without  buying  a  berry.  This  I  call 
heroic  and  manly,  and  told  him  so  on 
the  spot. 

Of  course  the  well  had  not  been 
pumped  out,  the  water-pail  had  not 
been  unpacked,  the  grocery  supplies 
had  not  arrived.  There  had  not  been 
a  fire  in  the  stove  for  eight  months, 
and  there  was  no  split  wood  in  the 
wood  shed,  but  men  have  been  known 
to  expect  household  routine  to  go  on 
under  conditions  quite  as  hindering, 
therefore  I  repeat,  that  Jack,  in  the  face 
of  vanishing  sweets,  showed  fortitude 
and  consideration. 

But  it  was  plain  that  "strawberry 
time"  had  made  an  impression  on  his 
mind  that  took  somewhat  the  form  of 
a  problem. 

Now    Jack    is    never    happier    than 


67 


6S 


THE    BOSTON    COOKIXG-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


when  he  has  nuts  to  crack  or  problems 
to  solve.  He  is  that  all-round  type  of 
man  that  can  and  does  bring  the  same 
philosophic  trend  of  mind  to  bear 
upon  matters  domestic  as  upon  civic 
and  national  affairs. 

We  had  come  to  Podunk  to  rest,  but 
Jack  always  rests  in  motion,  and  in 
less  than  a  week  after  our  arrival  I  saw 
him  go  forth  to  canvass  the  community. 
For  days  and  days  he  was  as  glum  as 
an  oyster,  leaving  me  to  guess  what  he 
was  up  to,  but  I  have  so  long  known 
the  Hmitations  to  his  capacity  for  hold- 
ing in  and  carrying  a  secret,  that  I 
could  wait  in  patience  for  the  un- 
bosoming. It  came  on  one  of  those 
chill}',  rainy  nights  in  June, — the  sort 
of  night  that  Jack  always  expects  and 
gets  warm  gingerbread  for  supper. 
Gingerbread  always  puts  him  in  a 
talkative  mood. 

We  had  each  taken  a  second  cup  of 
tea,  when  Jack  looked  up  and  said, 
*'Do  you  reaHze,  my  dear,  that  this 
canning  and  jelh'ing  process  is  only 
just  started  for  the  season  in  Podunk  ? 
I  find  that  our  Fourth  of  July  not  only 
proclaims  American  independence  but 
also  the  proper  time  for  making  currant 
jelly,  and  so,  unless  Nature  plays  us 
false,  the  same  ordeal  must  be  repeated, 
with  only  the  difference  that  'currant' 
wiU  be  written  on  the  label  instead  of 
'  strawberr}'. '  And  still  another  repe- 
tition, when  raspberries  are  ripe  and 
blackberries  grow  sweet  and  luscious. 
Again  when  the  huckleberry  bushes 
give  up  their  treasures,  shadowing 
forth  a  winter  supply  for  pies.  Then 
come  the  peaches,  pears  and  plums, 
followed  by  apples,  grapes  and  quinces. 
Between  times,  lest  the  hand  forgets  its 
cuiming,  there  are  peas,  com,  beets  and 
tomatoes  to  be  rescued  for  future  use. 
And  the  season  ends  with  a  pickling 
tournament. 

"It  hardly  seems  creditable,  but 
from  here  to  Podunk  Hollow,  a  distance 
of  less  than  two  miles,  and  only  sparsely 
settled,    I   find  b}^   actual   count   that 


there  are  thousands  of  cans  of  -fruit 
and  hundreds  of  glasses  of  jelly  pre- 
pared every  season.  From  'straw- 
berry time '  —  indeed  some  ambitious 
housekeepers  start  in  with  rhubarb  in 
April  —  until  the  last  luckless  green 
tomato  is  snatched  from  Jack  Frost, 
there  is  a  mad  rush  on  the  part  of  the 
farmer's  wife  to  keep  apace  with 
Nature  and  to  take  care  of  her  bounties 
with  a  thrifty  hand.  " 

By  this  time  Jack  was  ready  for  a 
second  helping  of  gingerbread  and  pro- 
ceeded. "Don't  you  see,my dear, that 
this  is  an  awful  waste  of  muscular 
energy  and  stove  fuel.  Don't  you  see 
that  consolidation  and  cooperation  at 
just  this  point  would  emancipate  these 
women  quite  as  much  as  the  telephone 
and  the  rural  dehvery? 

"Furthermore,  I  believe  there  is 
fruit  enough  that  goes  to  waste  every 
year,  which,  if  rescued,  would  not  only 
pay  for  the  running  of  a  community 
kitchen,  but  also  give  a  handsome 
bonus  for  civic  beautifying.  It  is  my 
firm  faith  that  Podunk  can  earn  the 
foundations  of  a  fine  library,  within  the 
next  three  5^ears,  by  simply  saving  the 
waste  of  fruit  and  vegetables  within  her 
own  borders.  She  has  a  market  al- 
ready' estabHshed  at  the  summer  colony 
of  Bide-a-wee. " 

The  third  piece  of  gingerbread  gave 
Jack  the  courage  to  make  a  clean  breast 
of  everything,  and  to  confess  that  he  had 
called  a  meeting  and  made  all  the 
necessary  arrangements  to  start  a  com- 
munity kitchen  for  canning  and  pre- 
serving, to  be  ready  this  season  for  the 
currant  crop. 

Jack  always  persists  that  my  im- 
pulsive opposition  is  his  most  helpful 
ally,  so  I  never  feel  hindered  in  giving 
it.  But  I  said  "You  have  surely  never 
looked  at  this  problem  from  the  psy- 
chological standpoint.  You  have  never 
calculated  the  personal  pride  of  every 
housewife  in  her  own  handiwork,  done 
in  her  own  way,  the  way  tradition  has 
made    sacred   to   her.      Ehminate   the 


THE  REGENERATION  OF  PODUNK 


69 


personal  touch  from  half  the  preserve 
closets  of  Podunk  and  you  rob  them  of 
their  glory  and  half  of  their  flavor. 
There  are  some  things  that  cannot  be 
consolidated  and  cooperated  and  this 
is  one  of  them.  Why!  Mrs.  Patterson 
would  be  inconsolably  wretched,  if  she 
thought  a  jar  of  peaches  would  ever 
stand  in  her  cellar  that  did  not  adhere 
to  the  formula  of  one  and  three-quarters 
pints  of  sugar  to  three  pints  of  water. 
Now  Mrs.  Smith  is  equally  loyal  to  one 
and  one-half  parts  sugar  to  three  parts 
water. " 

"And  as  for  jelly  making,  it  has  a 
hedge  about  it  as  conservative  and  in- 
vulnerable as  a  Chinese  wall.  Instance, 
our  beloved  Mrs.  Thornton.  That 
splendid  spirit  of  housewifely  excellence 
that  we  have  always  admired  in  her 
would  be  wholly  inundated  and  wrecked, 
if  she  ever  had  to  set  before  us,  on  her 
own  tea-table,  a  glass  of  jelly  that  had 
been  made  by  heating  the  currants 
before  they  were  crushed,  and  straining 
the  juice  through  cheesecloth  instead  of 
flannel.  To  Mrs.  Thornton  there  is 
but  one  right  way,  the  cold  and  flannel 
process. 

"Even  I,  Jack,  dear,  must  own  up 
to  feeling  an  unpleasant  sensation 
down  my  spinal  column,  and  a  vexatious 
agitation  in  my  mind,  whenever  I  see 
jelly  boil  more  than  five  minutes  after 
the  sugar  is  added.  Nay,  my  Worthy 
Wisdom,  let  me  entreat  you  to  care- 
fully consider  ere  you  intrude  upon  the 
sacred  precincts  of  jelly-making  with 
any  ruthless  tread. 

"As  for  pickling,  it  is  an  established 
fact  that  every  housewife  pickles  to 
suit  the  taste  of  her  family  and  her  rule 
lies  in  the  palate  of  said  family.  You 
Jcnow  that  the  Joneses  are  always  strong 
on  the  onion  flavor,  while  the  Millers 
emphasize  cinnamon  and  allspice! 
Fancy  consolidating  these  flavors  into 
a  blend  and  expect  either  family  to  be 
contented  and  happy. 

"Worthy  as  3^our  Community 
Kitchen  idea  is  in  its  inception ,  I  fear  it 


is  doomed  to  failure.  It  uproots  too 
many  of  the  'eternals'  of  housekeeping." 

Jack  received  my  volley  of  opposing 
arguments,  not  only  with  fortitude 
but  with  apparent  satisfaction,  and 
simply  said,  "Have  you  finished?" 
As  I  had,  he  again  took  the  floor. 

"Now,  I  am  sure  that  my  foundation 
is  secure  and  my  psychological  attitude 
all  right,  for  all  the  objections  you 
mention  were  brought  up,  in  one  form 
or  another,  at  the  meeting  we  held,  and 
I  w^as  able  to  meet  every  one  of  them. 
No,  my  dear,  I  do  not  mean  to  uproot 
the  'eternals'  and  the  Joneses  shall 
stand  for  onion  flavor  to  the  end  of 
time.  The  personal  equation  will  al- 
ways be  considered.  Each  farmer  will 
simply  send  his  consignment  of  berries 
or  fruit  with  explicit  instructions  as 
to  recipes  to  be  followed,  just  as  our 
great-grandfathers  sent  their  grist  to 
the  mill  to  be  ground  and  ordered 
middlings  left  in  or  middlings  left  out, 
according  as  to  whether  it  was  for 
pancakes  or  bread.  Those  worthies 
took  it  on  faith  that  they  brought  back 
the  same  grain  they  carried  and  there 
need  be  no  question  now..  Farmer 
Dunn's  marrowfats  need  never  get 
mixed  with  Deacon  White's  telephone 
peas,  and  Mrs.  Thornton  can  alw^a3^s 
send  her  flannel  jelly  bag. 

"It  is  my  opinion  that  the  good 
wives  will  have  gained  enough  leisure 
time  to  come  to  the  Kitchen  and  in- 
spect the  process  while  their  batch  of 
fruit  is  being  handled, " 

So  closely  are  faith  and  works  re- 
lated in  Jack's  philosophy  of  life  that 
in  an  incredibly  short  time  Podunk 
awoke  one  morning  to  find  the  aban- 
doned Haskell  house  turned  into  a 
"Community  Kitchen,"  in  charge  of  a 
New  England  man  and  his  wife,  of 
thrift  and  learning.  They  began  on 
the  currant  crop. 

Of  course,  since  Jack  was  behind  the 
innovation,  I  had  to  show  my  faith 
by  sending  the  first  lot,  with  instruc- 
tions that  the  jelly  should  be  boiled 


70 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


only  one  minute  after  the  sugar  was 
added.  The  twenty  glasses  of  tender 
crystalline  jelly  that  stood  on  my 
pantry  shelf  the  next  day  needed  no 
argument  and  so  encouraged  my  nearest 
neighbor  that  she  sent  half  of  her  pick- 
ing to  the  Kitchen.  I  saw  that  it 
caused  a  wrench,  but  she  supported 
herself  on  the  consciousness  that  she 
was  onh'-  risking  half.  But  the  jelly 
that  came  back  adhered  so  closely  in 
color,  taste  and  texture  to  the  "tra- 
ditional" that  the  other  half  was  sent 
without  a  qualm.  This  made  a  be- 
ginning and  by  the  time  the  raspberries 
were  ripe  a  dozen  families  were  con- 
verted. 

When  the  fall  fruits  came  on,  it  had 
grown  into  such  a  fashion  to  send  the 
preserving  out  that  the  capacity  of 
the  Kitchen  was  somewhat  taxed. 
An  evaporating  outfit  was  added,  that 
saved  .hundreds  of  bushels  of  apples 
from  absolute  waste.  A  simple  de- 
vice for  making  unfermented  grape 
juice  brought  profit  enough  the  first 
year  to  paint  the  town  hall,  build  over 
the  stage  and  buy  a  curtain  that  never 
failed  to  work. 

The  second  year  a  "Sunshine" 
Laundry  was  added  to  the  Kitchen, 
which  proved  a  great  boon.  Podunk 
had  wrestled  with  the  domestic  problem, 
but  like  the  rest  of  the  world  had  not 
solved  it,  and  was  left  to  do  its  own 
washing. 

As  the  name  suggests,  the  "Com- 
munity Kitchen"  was  established  on 
a  cooperative  basis,  with  the  under- 
standing that  after  all  running  ex- 
penses were  paid  and  each  contrib- 
utor had  a  certain  share  of  profit, 
proportioned  to  the  amount  of  surplus 
material    he    contributed,    all    the   re- 


maining profit  was  to  go  for  the  im- 
provement of  the  town. 

The  "Kitchen"  is  now  three  years 
old  and  every  visitor  coming  to  Podunk 
naturally  wanders  into  the  pretty  new 
library  on  Main  Street.  The  sweet- 
faced  librarian  is  always  cordial  and 
tells  you  with  unmasked  pride  that 
this  is  the  first  librar}^  built  of  fruit  and 
vegetables. 

But  complete  regeneration  came  not 
to  Podunk,  until  the  Culture  Club  be- 
came an  active  organization,  impelled 
forward  by  the  brain  force  of  the  women 
of  the  community.  Given  a  margin  of 
leisure,  it  was  demonstrated  that  culture 
will  flourish  as  persistently  in  rural 
districts  as  in  city  precincts.  Shake- 
speare and  Browning  were  not  neglected, 
nor  were  Wagner  and  Mendelssohn. 

Nature  study.  Domestic  Economy 
and  Civic  beautifying  opened  new  and 
broad  avenues  of  culture,  and  classes 
in  these  subjects  were  held  every  week. 
The  women  of  Podunk  began  to  know 
their  birds  and  to  call  them  by  name. 
The  church  suppers  took  on  a  new 
aspect,  for  the  dietetic  unrighteousness 
of  four  kinds  of  cake  and  three  kinds 
of  sweet  pudding,  at  the  same  meal, 
was  openly  discussed  and  frowned 
upon.  Deacon  Wybum,  who  had  a 
tooth  sweeter  even  than  Jack's,  de- 
clared, at  first,  that  this  was  heresy  that 
should  not  be  allowed  to  enter  the 
sanctuary.  But  regeneration  came 
to  the  deacon  as  indigestion  de- 
parted. 

And  all  of  this  happened,  because 
Jack  saw  the  need  of  an  emancipation 
proclamation  and  the  people  ,of  Po- 
dunk availed  themselves  of  its  freedom. 
I  have  always  said  that  Jack  was  a  man 
among  men. 


Fate 


Great  men  live  in  word  and  deed, 
Tho'  the  hand  that  sows  the  seed 

No  harvest  knows. 
Fixed  as  is  the  rolHng  sea 
By  its  bounds,  so  this  shall  be 


To  thee  and  those ; 
Something  lost  and  something  won 
E'er  the  life  that  hath  begun 

For  thee  shall  close. 

—  Grace  Agnes  Thompson 


Out  of  Chicken  Pie 

By  Helen  Campbell 


THE  point  is,"  said  the  young 
woman,  "never  to  spend  any 
time  in  self-pity  and  never 
mention  one  of  whatever  afflictions  may 
have  been  apportioned  to  your  indi- 
vidual self.  The  first  takes  your 
strength  and  spoils  any  good  work  you 
might  do.  The  second  is  a  bore  to  your 
friends  and  destruction  to  self-respect. 
In  the  first  grip  of  things  it  is  possible 
one  may  send  up  a  howl.  But  at  that 
or  any  other  time,  no  matter  what  the 
impulse,  Don't! " 

Was  she  a  young  woman  after  all? 
For,  as  she  brought  out  the  "Don't!" 
staccato,  I  looked  again.  Really  she 
seemed  more  like  a  nice  boy,  well  up 
in  athletics,  and  as  far  on  in  general 
college  work  as  athletics  permit.  Her 
hair  was  short,  cut  close  to  her  head, 
yet  curly,  and  though  rather  a  dark 
brown,  yet  showing  gold  where  little 
tendrils  had  their  way,  here  and  there, 
behind  an  ear  or  on  her  slender  neck. 
Her  hands  were  small,  of  course,  for 
she  was  a  Southern  woman,  genera- 
tions of  whom  had  no  need  to  use  their 
hands  in  any  coarsening  work,  yet 
could  and  did  use  them  in  delicate 
cookery,  preserving,  and  the  like,  and 
knew  every  secret  of  cutting  and 
generally  overseeing  the  garments  for 
a  plantation.  Delicately  formed, 
straight  as  a  dart  and  with  the  alert 
expression  of  a  champion  tennis  player, 
she  stood  at  the  gate  into  the  chicken- 
yard,  and  smiled  a  delightful  smile. 

"I  shouldn't  tell  you  one  word," 
she  said,  "if  you  hadn't  come  from  so 
old  a  friend.  Oh,  privately  I  would 
tell  anyone  interested,  but  printing  is 
another  matter.  It  will  help,  you  say. 
I'm  sure  I  don't  know.  Perhaps,  but 
I  somehow  seem  to  think  most  find 
out  for  themselves,  perhaps  by  a  good 
many  experiments,   just  what  to   do. 


But  I  will  tell  you  just  how  it  began 
with  me.  Nellie  has  told  you,  I  don't 
doubt,  that  I  was  left  a  widow  with 
three  children.  We  had  lived  in  town, 
after  my  marriage,  in  a  rented  house. 
When  my  husband  died  and  I  presently 
summed  up  my  capital,  it  was,  first,  the 
children,  then,  not  quite  two  hundred 
dollars  left  in  the  bank  after  the  ex- 
penses of  the  long  sickness  and  the 
funeral  were  paid.  Added  to  this  were 
nine  hens  and  a  rooster  that  I  had  kept 
at  the  end  of  the  little  garden  at  the 
back  of  the  house,  our  cat  and  dog  and 
about  a  fortnight's  supplies  in  the 
pantry.  Our  clothes,  too,  were  in  fair 
amount  and  order.  That  was  all. 
Lots  of  people  came  to  condole  with 
me  and  tell  me  what  to  do,  but  not 
one  made  what  seemed  to  me  a  really 
practical  suggestion.  I  knew  what  I 
could  do,  or  thought  I  did,  which 
amounts  to  the  same  thing,  if  you 
really  go  ahead  and  do  it.    I  did  it. 

"  The  first  thing  was  to  move  into  the 
country,  where  I  had  longed  to  have 
the  children.  It  isn't  country  now 
exactly,  for  the  station  is  not  far  away, 
but  the  house  was  out  of  repair,  and 
I  had  the  option  of  buying  it  at  the 
end  of  the  year,  if  I  wanted  it  then. 
The  owner  couldn't  do  much  and  was 
glad  to  think  it  might  be  off  his  hands, 
and  I  took  it  for  eighty  dollars  a  year — ■ 
this  to  include  a  few  repairs. 

"There  was  a  big  garden,  not  tended 
for  years,  not  a  fruit  tree,  and  the  four 
acres  outside  the  fenced-in  garden  one 
mass  of  brush.  My  next  neighbor  was 
a  farmer  from  the  North,  come  South 
for  his  health  and  getting  it,  and  he 
took  an  interest  from  the  beginning; 
he  ploughed  my  land  for  me,  and 
agreed  to  go  over  it  with  the  cultivator 
when  it  was  necessary,  but  I  must  first 
manage  to  rake  up   and  bum  up  all 


71 


72 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


the  weeds  and  sticks,  etc.  The  children 
helped  me  and  we  made  a  spree  of  it. 
I  bought  a  cow  of  him,  a  good  one,  and, 
as  one  of  my  hens  had  begun  to  set  on 
a  box  of  nails,  decided  she  should  have 
eggs.  He  had  some  fine,  pure-blooded 
Plymouth  Rocks,  and  mine  were  Wyan- 
dottes,  just  as  good  and  no  fear  as  to 
crossing  breeds,  and  so  I  started  in. 
What  I  was  after  was  broilers,  and  if 
broilers  wouldn't  support  us,  why 
there  was  something  else  that  I  felt 
sure  would,  and  that  was  chicken  pies. 
You  smile,  but  let  me  tell  you  they 
weren't  everyday  chicken  pies.  Our 
old  Dilly  on  my  father's  plantation 
was  a  champion  chicken-pie  maker, 
in  demand  for  every  wedding  and 
general  church  entertainment,  and  she 
taught  me  just  how,  swearing  me  to 
secresy  long  as  she  lived.  So  I  watched 
her  man}^  times,  realizing,  at  last,  that 
it  meant  using  the  very  choicest 
material  straight  through.  No  old 
hens  simmered  all  day  long  to  make 
them  tender.  On  the  contrary,  she  de- 
manded the  choicest  broilers,  and  she 
made,  not  exactly  puff  paste  but  the 
most  delicate  order  of  pastry  to  put 
them  in.  To  season  to  a  turn  and  with 
no  variation,  and  to  have  the  gravy 
smooth  and  rich,  these  were  her  secrets, 
and  I  learned  them  so  thoroughly  that 
after  once  sampHng  them  there  was 
no  further  trouble  as  to  orders.  I  sent 
little  individual  pies  to  every  hotel 
and  restaurant  in  the  city  I  had  left. 
I  had  bought  a  good  cow,  as  I  said,  and 
soon  bought  another,  to  have  plenty  of 
cream,  for  that  was  one  important  item 
in  the  pies,  and  as  the  work  got  too 
much  for  me  alone  I  presently  had  a 
girl  to  help,  and  at  last  another,  all  of 
us  doing  steady  hard  work,  but  liking 
it.  I  raised  the  chickens,  you  see, 
though  I  often  hated  to  have  them 
killed,  and  by  this  time  we  had  small 
fruits,  and  all  that  grows  in  a  well- 
kept  garden.  The  children  helped  as 
well  as  went  to  school  and  were  rosy, 
healthy    creatures,    my    comfort    and 


joy,  and  they  alwaj^s  have  been.  I 
never  have  cleared  over  five  hundred 
a  year,  but  what  more  do  I  need?  I 
make  ten  cents  clear  on  each  indi- 
vidual chicken  pie  and  fifteen  on  the 
larger  ones.  Specials  I  make  as  large 
as  people  want  them,  but  I  prefer  the 
little  ones.  Three  sizes  are  made  every 
day,  and  some  families,  who  go  away 
for  the  summer,  have  their  chicken  pies 
expressed  to  them  each  week  and 
won't  do  without  them.  Some  people 
fuss  and  say  they  are  too  rich.  Others 
want  me  to  charge  less  and  say,  if  I 
would  use  lard  instead  of  butter  in 
the  pastry,  I  could  sell  cheaper.  But 
I  answer  that  it  is  my  business  never 
to  fall  below  the  standard.  Aunt  Dilly 
would  turn  in  her  grave  if  she  thought 
her  rule  was  to  have  lard  used  instead 
of  butter.  I  made  some  experiments 
and  found  it  was  distinctly  best  to 
stick  close  to  the  old  original  text. 
You  can  buy  cheap  pies  anywhere 
and  they  taste  cheap.  These  melt  in 
your  mouth.  And  you  ought  to  know 
that  two  other  women  in  the  neighbor- 
hood have  specialties,  too,  and  I  taught 
them,  for  my  mother  used  to  make  a 
delicious  chicken  jelly  for  sick  people 
and  one  woman  does  that  and  has  a  big 
market  for  it  at  the  Woman's  Exchange, 
and  another  makes  cornbeef  hash  for 
three  restaurants  and  has  all  she  can 
do.  The  gist  of  it  is  good  cooking  can 
always  he  made  to  pay.  Keep  to  the 
best  form  you  can  find,  never  vary, 
and  a  living,  and  often  much  more,  is 
certain.  AVhen  women  learn  that, 
perhaps  more  of  them  will  turn  in  this 
direction.  Here  is  the  home  paid  for, 
trees  growing  and  yielding,  children 
growing  too,  and  Tom  almost  ready  for 
college,  and  chicken  pie  has  done  it, 
and  will  keep  on  doing  it,  perhaps  as 
long  as  I  live.  At  an}^  rate  I  should 
never  stop  doing  something  as  per- 
fectly as  I  could  for  that  is  half  the  fun 
of  living.  Don't  you  think  so?  We  ■ 
keep  the  evenings  for  as  much  of  a 
good  time  as  possible.     I  keep  a  little 


OLD  AGE 


73 


of  my  old  music  and  play  accompani- 
ments, for  Tom  has  a  fine  baritone 
voice  and  we  all  sing,  and  Edith  and 
her  violin  take  the  kinks  out  of  any 
day's  work.  We  have  a  fair  little 
library  and  do  not  mean  to  fall  behind 
or  forget  what  quiet  progress  means. 
It  has  been  a  happy  life,  thank  God! 
How  could  it  help  being  so,  with  such 
children  and  a  certain  sure  thing  to  do  ? " 


Yes,  how  could  it  help  being  thus 
with  such  a  spirit  at  work  to  bring  it 
about?  That  was  the  thought  as  I 
looked  at  the  mother,  and  wished  that 
all  dolorous  and  uncertain  women 
might  have  the  same  chance.  Joining 
the  Sunshine  Circle  or  the  Harmony 
Club  might  be  the  first  essential.  After 
that  things  would  take  care  of  them- 
selves. 


In  August    . 

Cora  A.  Matson  Dolson 


For  me  a  basket  and  a  book 
Where  cooling  hemlocks  grow ; 

And,  in  the  deep  of  wooded  nooks. 
The  spikes  of  cardinal  glow. 

A  book  to  bring  but  not  to  read  — 
Enough  to  know  it  near, 

To  turn  a  leaf  I  do  not  need. 
The  song  is  with  me  here. 


A  bird-note  comes  adown  the  wood, 

It  seems  to  stillness  wed; 
A  tap,  then  gleam  of  scarlet  hood 

High  in  the  tree  o'erhead. 

The  Indian-pipe  is  waxen  stemmed; 

The  squirrels  near  me  play; 
While  on  this  bank  by  mosses  gemmed 

I  dream  the  hours  away. 


Old  Age 

By  Kate  Gannett  Wells 


OLD  age  becomes  more  of  a  prob- 
lem when  living  in  it  than  when 
viewed  afar  off.  It  is  a  question 
of  economics  and  ethics  more  than  of 
wrinkles.  It  is  so  easy  not  to  mind  it 
when  well,  rich  and  beloved;  it  is  so 
impossible  not  to  object  to  it  when 
sick,  poor  and  unwelcome.  It  creeps 
into  almost  every  home  and,  though 
we  try  to  alleviate  it  and  succeed  to  a 
certain  extent,  through  affection,  cook- 
ery and  cleanliness,  the  vast  majority 
of  the  world  does  not  know  how  to 
manage  to  live  on  almost  nothing,  and 
yet  it  is  upon  those  of  small  or  of  no 
means  that  the  support  of  old  age 
presses  most  heavily.  So  love  only  is 
left,  and  too  often  not  even  that. 


Then  one  wonders  if  one  ought  to 
refuse  marriage  and  devote  one's  self 
to  one's  parents;  —  or,  if  married  and 
children  are  many,  and  food  and  lodg- 
ings scant,  shall  one  also  house  one's 
aged  parents?  If  the  ethics  thereof 
are  difficult  to  settle  when  money  and 
space  are  available,  it  is  a  hideous  task 
for  decision  when  both  are  lacking. 

Nowhere  does  the  attempted  settle- 
ment to  remove  the  stigma  of  pauper- 
ism from  the  aged  through  legislation 
threaten  to  be  more  puzzling  than  in 
England,  where  after  January  1,  1911, 
a  workhouse  inmate  of  above  seventy 
years  and  "fairly  respectable"  is  en- 
titled to  leave  the  house  and  receive 
in  lieu  of  its  shelter  five  shillings  a  week. 


74 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Is  acceptance  of  such  pension  outside 
of  a  workhouse  more  honorable  than 
being  dependent  on  Government  for 
support  inside  the  workhouse?  That 
is  the  question  the  Old  Age  pensioners 
of  England  are  tr3^ing  to  solve.  Who 
is  going  to  house,  feed  and  clothe  them 
for  five  shillings  a  week?  What  does 
that  amount  to,  set  against  the  care 
of  an  infirm,  old,  undesired  relative 
who  is  not  wanted  either  for  his  keep 
or  his  affection,  and  who  will  only  grow 
older?  Even  as  a  boarder  of  no  kin 
whatever  to  his  landlady,  is  he  likely 
to  be  as  comfortable  as  in  the  work- 
house? Startling  have  been  some  of 
the  discoveries  that  have  followed  upon 
this   apparently  beneficent  legislation. 

Well  was  it  that  Miss  Edith  Sellers 
of  England,  of  her  own  free  will,  visited 
relatives  of  the  inmates  of  a  London 
workhouse,  hoping  to  carry  back  to  the 
latter  place  the  joyful  tidings  that  they 
were  wanted  in  families.  Alas!  out  of 
528  such  inmates  only  221  had  any 
relatives,  and  more  than  half  of  that 
number  knew  that,  if  they  went  to  their 
kinspeople,  they  would  not  be  taken  in. 
Some  who  had  felt  sure  of  a  welcome 
were  bitterly  disappointed.  "Old  folk 
give  no  end  of  trouble;  keeping  them 
clean  takes  up  all  one's  time.  Besides 
they  must  have  somewhere  to  sleep," 
was  generally  answered.  One  grown-up 
daughter,  supporting  herself,  her 
mother  and  brother  in  two  rooms,  one 
no  better  than  a  cupboard,  grieved  she 
could  not  take  back  her  father.  Other 
sons  and  daughters,  by  blood  or  by 
law,  waxed  indignant  at  being  urged 
to  receive  their  kinsmen,  even  for  the 
sake  of  the  shillings.  They  had  neither 
room  nor  food  for  them;  each  genera- 
tion must  care  first  for  its  own  children 
and  not  take  up  burdens  of  parents, 
worse  still  of  grandparents,  aunts  and 
cousins  once  gotten  rid  of ;  especially, 
if  they  were  of  the  drunken  variety, 
as  was  too  often  the  case. 

Fortunately  Miss  Sellers  found  a  few 
other  homes  which  promised  to  receive 


a  pensioner  for  the  sake  of  his  pension, 
or  from  real  affection.  After  all  the 
bitter  work-a-day  life  in  these  narrow 
homes,  attics,  cellars,  two  or  three 
rooms  at  most,  would  have  been  more 
wretched  for  the  pensioners  to  bear 
than  their  blighted  hopes.  "To  work 
a  bit  harder, "  in  order  to  take  in  one's 
aged  mother,  is  not  possible  in  thousands 
of  cases.  Better  to  remain  a  work- 
house pauper  and  be  sure  of  warmth, 
cleanliness  and  food  than  to  wander 
forth  uncared  for  or  to  be  an  unwelcome 
burden  on  an  overworked  child. 

Therefore  is  it  that  the  English  Old 
Age  Pension  Act  does  not  solve  its  own 
problem,  for  the  infirm  or  sick  must 
still  be  sheltered  in  some  refuge  which 
should  have  no  workhouse  taint  of 
pauperism  attached  to  it. 

However  much  there  may  be  among 
us  of  similar  reluctance  to  take  home 
aged  pauper  relatives,  it  has  not  yet 
become  a  matter  of  public  investiga- 
tion, though,  if  it  were,  it  is  possible  that 
there  would  be  as  much  unwillingness 
manifested  here  as  in  England.  Cer- 
tainly many  of  our  almshouses  and 
homes  for  the  aged  poor  suggest  that 
there  will  be  the  same  forlorn  hopes 
shattered,  if  pensions  should  ever  be 
conferred  instead  of  legal  residences 
in  almshouses. 

Fortunately  for  us,  old  age  is  still  an 
individual  question.  All  the  more, 
then,  should  elderly  people  not  let 
themselves  get  crabbed.  Of  course, 
if  other  people  would  not  nag  one  with 
being  old,  one  would  not  be,  —  quite 
so  old! 

What  old  age,  whether  poor,  mid- 
dling or  well-to-do  lacks  is  amusement. 
It  is  lonesome  to  keep  jolly  by  re- 
membering that  one's  mind  ought  to 
be  one's  kingdom.  Meditation  is  all 
very  well,  but  so  also  is  the  circus, 
the  "greatest  value  of  which  lies  in  its 
non-ethical  quality."  Even  if  it  has 
its  symbolism,  it  does  not  mercilessly 
set  one  to  moralizing,  save  as  a  three 
ring  circus  and  a  "brigade  of  clowns" 


LOVE  AND  AFFECTION 


75 


(the  result  of  trying  to  make  as  much 
money  as  possible)  incites  to  weariness. 
The  real  "gospel  of  the  circus"  lies  in 
its  democracy,  in  its  revealings  of  the 
power  of  training  on  acrobats  and 
animals  through  kindly  persistence,  and 
in  the  mutual  good  will  and  law  abid- 
ing qualities  of  the  household  of  a 
circus.  Always  has  it  belonged  to  the 
people,  and  even  ministers  have 
not  been  discounted  for  their 
attendance. 

It  seems  a  wide  jump  in  fancy  from 
old  age  to  a  circus,  and  yet  to  me  they 
are  intimately  connected  through  the 
dear  old  people,  poor  and  well  to  do, 
whom  I  have  known,  who  found  in  it 
their  objective  base  for  amusement. 
To  them  the  clown  and  his  jokes  were 
links  in  the  spirit  of  human  brother- 
hood. Alas,  as  a  pension  of  five  shil- 
lings a  week  will  not  permit  of  the 
circus  in  its  glory,  old  age  asks  for  the 
minor  blessings  of  five  cent  shows, 
public  parks,  and  good  tobacco.  Just 
to  be  out  doors  is  rejuvenating. 

All  the  more  is  amusement  desirable, 
because  legislation  has  undertaken  to 
set  the  goal  when  one  shall  no  longer 


work.  To  retire  teachers,  officers, 
workers,  merely  because  they  are  sixty- 
five  or  seventy  is  an  insult  to  human 
nature,  which  rejects  any  arbitrary 
limit  save  that  of  incapacity.  The 
average  of  average  people,  though  per- 
haps unable  to  earn  their  living  after 
seventy,  are  still  capable  of  being  oc- 
cupied. Therefore  let  the  old  folks 
work  at  household  and  woodshed 
drudgery  as  long  as  they  can,  however 
irritating  their  slowness  may  be  to  the 
young  and  merciless.  Let  the  old 
serve  also  in  semi-public  ways,  because 
of  their  experience,  even  if  they  are 
not  wanted  round. 

It  is  a  common  saying  that  it  is 
harder  to  resign  office  at  seventy  than 
at  sixty,  just  because  old  age  clings  to 
occupation  as  its  protection.  But  if 
with  most  of  us,  if  not  with  all,  as  the 
years  increase,  occupation  shrivels  and 
the  fads  or  hobbies,  the  solace  of  earlier 
days,  cease  by  their  very  weight  to  be 
pursued,  —  then  may  there  still  be 
amusement  provided  for  the  elderly 
before  they  become  "Shut  Ins,"  de- 
pendent on  Christmas  and  Easter  cards 
for  enjoyment. 


Love  and  Affection 

By  Helen  Coale  Crew 


I  love  thee  not,  Love,  though  thou'rt  called  divine! 
Thou  pagan  god,  whose  flashing  fires  glow 
But  for  a  season ;  then  the  winter's  snow 
No  colder  lies  than  ashes  on  thy  shrine. 
Thou  selfish  child!     Ready  to  fret  and  whine 
When  disappointed.    Wandering  to  and  fro 
In  quest  of  joy,  from  flower  to  flower  dost  go 
Like  greedy  bee  upon  a  honeyed  vine. 

But  thou,  Affection,  human  art,  and  true! 
Fitted  for  every  day's  most  urgent  needs; 
Warm-glowing  ever,  all  the  seasons  through ; 
Mother  of  tenderness  and  selfless  deeds. 
Clear-seeing  thou,  nor  like  that  other  bHnd; 
Clear-burning  on  the  hearths  of  all  mankind. 


Three  Girls  go  Blackberrying 


By  Samuel  Smyth 


GRANDPA  told  Mary  that  he 
saw  a  few  blackberries  in  the 
pasture.  Mary  hastened  to  in- 
form ]\Iina  that  there  were  bushels  of 
ripe  blackberries  in  the  pasture.  Mina 
hurried  to  tell  Jane,  and  almost  breath- 
lessly suggested  that  they  go  and  get 
them  before  anybody  else  found  them. 
Jane  thought  it  would  be  m^ore  com- 
fortable after  sundown.  Mina  said  that 
they  would  be  gone  before  that  time, 
and  insisted  that  they  go  at  once. 
Outnumbered,  Jane  reluctantly  con- 
sented. Mary  must  change  her  dress; 
so  must  the  other  two.  Much  time  was 
spent  in  that  operation,  for  it  included 
the  special  dressing  of  the  hair,  also. 
There  was  much  impatience  manifested 
by  Mary,  the  first  to  declare  herself 
ready;  but  after  the  others  appeared 
she  suddenly  thought  of  several  things 
that  she  must  attend  to.  At  last  each 
inquired  of  the  others,  "Well,  are  you 
ready?" 

"Yes,  in  a  minute,"  said  Mina.  "I 
forgot  to  put  on  cold  cream  to  prevent 
sunburn." 

"So  did  I,"  said  Jane;  "and,  Mary, 
you  had  better  use  some,  also,  or  you 
will  regret  it." 

"I  think  I  will,"  said  Mary;  and  a 
good  half  hour  has  passed  before  they 
are  all  downstairs  again,  when  the  old 
question  was  asked  again,  "Are  you 
ready?" 

"Had  we  better  wear  rubbers?" 
asked  Jane. 

"No,"  answered  Mary,  "but  I  am 
going  upstairs  to  put  on  an  old  pair  of 
shoes." 

"That  is  sensible,"  said  Mina.  "I 
think  we  all  had  better  follow  Mary's 
example,  as  it  won't  take  a  minute." 

Upstairs  they  all  went  again;  much 
talk  and  another  half  hour  passed 
when  each  made  the  declaration,  "Well, 


I  am  ready,  are  you?"  with  much  em- 
phasis on  the  personal  pronoun  I. 

"Are  you  coming  with  me?"  said 
Mary,  and  she  started  in  the  direction 
of  the  pasture  with  great  animation, 
when  Jane  inquired,  in  a  loud  voice,  if 
she  were  not  going  to  take  something 
along  to  put  the  berries  in. 

"To  be  sure  I  am.  In  my  hurry  I 
entirely  forgot  it.  V/hat  shall  I  take?" 
asked  Mary. 

"We  ourselves  have  not  yet  decided. 
Which  do  you  think  would  be  better, 
Mary,  a  basket  or  a  pail?" 

"  I  don't  know  and  I  don't  care  what 
you  take,  I  am  going  to  take  a  paper 
bag,"  replied  Mary.  "It  is  light  and 
convenient,  and  we  can  easily  destroy 
all  evidence  of  failure  in  case  we  fail 
to  get  any  berries." 

"Thank  you,  Mary,  for  the  happy 
suggestion.  We  will  take  paper  bags. 
What  size  will  be  suitable?" 

"I  think,"  said  Jane,  "that  if  we 
each  fill  a  flour  sack,  that  will  be  suffi- 
cient for  once.  It  is  such  a  job  to 
carry  so  many  or  to  make  them  into 
jam." 

"To  obviate  any  chance  for  envy  as 
to  which  shall  gather  the  greatest 
amount  of  berries,  let  us  take  along  a 
common,  large  receptacle,  into  which 
each  of  us  shall  deposit  as  often  as  our 
smaller  vessels  shall  be  filled." 

"That  is  a  thoughtful  and  wise  plan 
for  an  unambitious  person.  I  assent 
to  the  proposition,"  smilingly  answered 
Mina. 

A  bushel  basket  was  found  and  all 
agreed  to  take  turns  in  carrying  it  to 
the  pasture.  At  last,  the  procession 
was  fonned,  after  several  more  short 
halts  for  consultation  and  criticism, 
and  was  finally  under  way  for  the 
pasture.  But  when  in  the  highway, 
which  thev  had  to  cross  to  reach  the 


76 


A  ROMANY  TENT 


77 


same,  they  were  accosted  by  two 
ragged  boys  with,  "Say,  girls,  do  you 
want  to  buy  any  berries ;  only  five  cents 
a  quart ;  twelve  quarts  —  all  there  were 
in  the  pasture,  every  one,  and  it's  the 
last  picking  of  the  season." 

"Oh  dear,  I  told  you  so;  I  knew 
it  would  be  this  way,"  said  Mary 
petulantly;  "some  people  are  so 
slow." 

"It  is  too  provoking  for  anything," 
said  Mina,  "and  it  will  be  so  humiliat- 
ing to  return  to  the  house  without  any 
berries  after  making  such  a  hullabaloo," 
sighed  Jane. 

"Oh,  girls!"  exclaimed  Mary,  "let's 
buy  the  berries  of  the  boys  and  divide 
them  between  us.  Let's  see,  twelve 
divided  by  three  equals  four;  four 
quarts  is  a  very  reasonable  and  respect- 
able amount  for  an  ordinary  person. 
You  hold  them  while  I  run  home  and 
get  the  money." 

After  the  transfer  of  the  berries  was 
completed,  the  three  girls  returned  to 


the  house,  triumphantly  smiling,  and 
happy,  with  the  twelve  quarts  of 
berries.  Mingling  with  the  rest  of  the 
family,  I  could  not  refrain  from  speak- 
ing about  what  fun  it  was  to  go  berry- 
ing, when  suddenly  grandpa  remarked, 
"that  four  quarts  was  a  very  reason- 
able and  respectable  amount  for  an 
ordinary  person."  Grandpa  had  been 
sitting  on  a  fence,  concealed  by  bushes, 
and  had  seen  the  whole  performance. 

A  quick,  suspicious,  comprehensive 
glance  passed  between  the  conspira- 
tors, when  the  suspense  was  broken 
by  the  voice  of  the  shock-headed  boy 
who  yelled  out,  "Say,  girls,  do  you 
want  to  buy  any  more  berries  for 
tomorrow?" 

"How  provoking!"  said  Mary. 

"How  humiUating!"  assented  Mina. 

* '  I  feel  so  ashamed  I  shall  never 
feel  right  again.  Why  did  we  dis- 
semble? Prevarication  is  a  kind  of  a 
lie;  I  never  want  to  hear  the  word 
'blackberries*  again,"  moaned  Jane. 


A  Romany  Tent 

By  Lalia  Mitchell 


When  you  bring  your  pledge  of  a  lasting 
love, 

A  love  that  is  fond  and  free, 
Oh,  whisper  not  of  a  castle  high, 

Or  a  yacht  that  sails  the  sea. 
I  want  no  tale  of  a  palace  fair 

That  towers  over  loch  and  lea ; 
But  a  table  set  in  the  open  air 

And  a  Romany  tent  for  me. 


When  you  whisper  words  that  should  please 
me  well. 

When  you  woo  me,  Sweetheart  mine, 
Oh,  paint  no  picture  of  wealth  and  power, 

Of  silks  and  of  jewels  fine. 
And  breathe  no  word  of  the  jostling  throng, 

For  my  heart  would  fain  be  free ; 
I  go  where  the  woodland  paths  are  long, 

And  a  Romany  tent  for  me. 


Will  you  meet  my  wish,  will  you  walk  my  way? 

Will  you  chart  the  flower-strewn  lea  ? 
Will  you  curb  your  pride,  will  you  keep  the  faith, 

The  faith  of  my  company? 
I  will  bear  no  yoke,  I  will  wear  no  brand. 

But  my  heart  shall  be  true  to  thee. 
So  give  me  the  world  for  a  home,  and  love 

In  a  Romany  tent  for  me. 


78 


THE    BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


THE 

BOSTON     COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OP 

Culinary  Science  and    Domestic    Economics 
Janet  McKenzie   Hill,  Editor 

PUBLISHED   TEN   TIMES    A   YEAR 

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bummer 

The   Springtime  has  gone  with  its  verdure 
and  song. 
The  fragrance  of  bud  and  the  fullness  of 
flower, 
And  now  o'er  the  grainfields  the  harvesters 
throng 
To  gather  in  triumph  the  glad  Summer's 
dower. 


The  orchards  are  bending  with  fruitage  today 
And   vine^'ards   are    purple    with    grapes 
juicy  sweet; 
Our  hearts  are  exultant,  our  voices  are  gay, 
As  Summer  flings  down  all  her  wealth  at 
our  feet. 

O  Summer,  bright  Slimmer,  the  queen  of  the 
year. 
We  praise  thee,  and  love  thee,  and  share 
of  thy  bhss; 
Thy  mornings  are  happy,  thy  evenings  are 
dear, 
Thy  hours  are  all  golden,  not  one  would 
we  miss. 

—  Ruth  Raymond. 


"WHERE  THERE  IS  NO  VISION, 
THE  PEOPLE  PERISH." 

OFTEN  life  becomes  dull  and 
irksome  because  our  living  and 
working  seem  to  be  in  vain. 
We  are  constantly  asking  ourselves, 
how  we  can  make  our  lives  worth 
living.  Now,  in  accordance  with  the 
concensus  of  modem  thought,  it  would 
seem  that  the  better  way  to  live  is, 
while  ever  taking  active  interest  in  the 
current  affairs  of  the  day^  to  cherish 
some  lofty  aim  or  purpose,  in  other 
words,  "to  formulate  and  cultivate  a 
vision." 

A  vision  is  the  aim,  purpose,  object 
or  ideal  we  set  before  us  in  our  several 
occupations  in  life.  As  we  find  it 
stated  elsewhere,  "A  vision,  a  creative 
vision,  is  a  pictured  goal.  There  is 
purpose  and  vigor  in  it.  It  is  pro- 
ductive of  results,  and  the  loftier  the 
vision,  the  higher  the  attainment." 

In  life  and  history  it  is  easy  to  dis- 
tinguish the  man  of  vision  from  him 
who  is  without  high  aim.  "Eat,  drink 
and  be  merry"  is  the  maxim  of  the 
one,  while  faithful  service  in  trying  to 
make  the  conditions  of  life  better,  far 
and  wide,  is  characteristic  of  the  other. 
Likewise,  the  nature  or  quality  of  every 
man's  vision  is  capable  of  discernment. 
Certainly  no  aim  or  low  aim  is  almost 
crime. 

Each  of  us  must  find  his  vision  in 
his  own  occupation  or  calling  in  life. 
There  each  must  strive  not  only  to 
grow  and  enrich  his  own  Hfe,  but  also 
that  of  the  few  or  the  many  about  him, 
as  chance  or  environment  permits. 

"Not   for  success,   nor  health,   nor  wealth, 

nor  fame, 
I  daily  beg  on  bended  knee  from  Thee; 
But  for  Thy  guidance.     Make  my  life  so  fit 
That  ne'er  in  condemnation  must  I  sit, 
Judged   by  the   clear-eyed   children   Thou 

gav'st  me." 

To  the  home-maker,  for  instance, 
with  an  ideal  like  this,  life  cannot  seem 
listless  and  futile,  nor  of  such  in  one 


EDITORIALS 


79 


can  it  be  said  that  her  life  has  been 
lived  in  vain. 

Does  it  not  follow  that  the  only  life 
worth  living  is  that  which  is  actuated 
by  a  real  purpose,  a  lofty  ideal,  a  clear 
vision?  How  much  in  the  way  of 
successful  and  happy  living  depends 
upon  our  ideals!  Let  us  look  well  to 
our  aims;  waste  no  time  in  idle  dream- 
ing, but  keep  ever  before  us  some  far- 
away and  hopeful  vision. 

PROGRESS  AND  REFORM 

WE  believe  that  progress  is  made 
by  means  of  genuine  reform. 
In  every  instance  we  find 
ourselves  on  the  side  of  wholesome 
reform,  for  in  this  way  only  true 
progress  seems  to  lie.  The  changes 
that  have  taken  place  within  the  past 
fifty  years  in  our  educational  system 
are  great,  indeed.  No  doubt  these 
changes  have  been  beneficial  in  the 
main,  and  yet  further  changes  are  still 
needful.  Certainly,  according  to  recent 
developments,  some  change  seems  to 
be  called  for  in  our  reformatory  in- 
stitutions. 

In  general,  it  seems  to  us  the  tran- 
sition from  our  schools  and  colleges  to 
the  imperative  duties  and  occupations 
of  life  is  too  abrupt,  too  difficult  and 
sadly  unsatisfactory;  at  least  this  is 
true  in  case  of  the  majority  of  young 
people.  Education  should  prepare  one 
to  pass  easily  and  readily  into  some 
chosen  occupation,  and  the  first  need 
of  every  human  being  is  the  chance  to 
earn  a  living;  since  every  one  should 
earn  his  bread  by  the  sweat  of  his 
brow.  Do  our  schools  fit  or  unfit  our 
youth  for  life's  real  work?  Can  they 
engage  at  once  and  successfully  in 
some  congenial  occupation?  Until 
these  questions  can  be  favorably 
answered,  we  advocate  reform  in  our 
forms  of  education.  Labor  we  must; 
a  taste,  even  a  fondness  for  wholesome, 
necessary  labor  should  be  cultivated 
in  our  schools. 

It  has  been  stated  and  confirmed  by 


those  in  authority  that  $300,000,000 
might  be  saved  per  year  in  the  con- 
duct of  our  government  on  a  strictly 
business  basis.  If  this  be  true,  here 
reform,  good  and  true,  is  an  impera- 
tive need.  Such  a  condition  of  affairs 
is  in  no  sense  humorous.  For  what  do 
we  choose  our  legislators?  Is  it  to 
squander  or  conserve  the  revenues  and 
resources  of  the  State? 

Likewise,  in  ways  of  living  or  the 
conduct  of  life,  reform  is  ever  in  order, 
provided  thereby  gain  can  be  made. 
It  has  been  said  that  "The  whole  moral 
law  is  based  on  health.  The  ideal  body 
is  the  proper  shrine  for  the  ideal  soul,  — 
a  truth  that  has  yet  to  be  educated 
into  the  modem  consciousness.  Right- 
eousness and  health  should  go  together. 
This  is  an  eternal  law,  —  a  law  that 
covers  society,  education  and  morality. 
The  real  meaning  of  the  word  '  temper- 
ance' is  a  careful  use  of  the  body.  It 
has  nothing  primarily  to  do  with  mere 
abstinence  from  certain  forms  of  pleas- 
ure. A  man  says  to  himself,  I  am  in 
possession  of  a  mechanism  which  will 
endure  a  certain  amount  of  wear  and 
usage,  but  it  is  the  most  delicate  of 
all  machinery,  and  for  that  reason  it 
must  be  used  with  more  consideration 
than  even  the  fine  works  of  a  watch. 
Intemperance,  of  any  sort,  means 
unnecessary  wear  and  tear.  It  in- 
creases the  waste  of  the  system,  the 
rapidity  of  the  living  process,  so  that 
repair  cannot  keep  up  with  use,  and 
it  bums  where  there  should  be  the 
clear  light  of  life." 

DON'T  KILL  THE  BIRDS 

FOR  a  number  of  years  the  scien- 
tific investigators  have  been 
arguing  that  a  bird — almost  any 
bird  —  was  worth  a  good  deal  more  to 
the  country  alive  than  dead;  worth 
more  in  the  glorious  freedom  of  its 
habitat  than  on  my  lady's  hat  or  on 
the  plate  of  the  epicure.  It  has  been 
shown  by  the  dissection  of  birds  and  the 
examination  of  their  stomachs  just  what 


80 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


seeds  and  insects  they  eat.  These  ex- 
aminations have  made  it  clear  that  most 
birds  live  principally  on  the  seeds  of 
pernicious  weeds,  and  on  the  insect 
and  small  mammal  pests  against  which 
the  farmer  has  to  wage  an  increasing 
fight  every  year.  It  is  true  that  some 
birds  damage  crops  and  it  is  true  that 
any  birds  will  do  damage  if  there  are 
too  many  of  them  —  just  as  the  extreme 
congestion  of  people  results  in  disease 
and  immorality.  But  under  normal 
conditions  of  distribution  almost  any 
bird  is  an  able  assistant  to  the  agricul- 
turist and  horticulturist  in  the  protec- 
tion of  his  crops  against  their  most 
dangerous  enemies. 


The  steady  increase  in  the  cost  of 
living  during  the  period  of  a  year  and 
a  half  ending  on  the  last  day  of  March, 
1910,  is  strikingly  demonstrated  by  a 
bulletin  issued  by  the  Bureau  of  Labor 
of  the  Department  of  Commerce  and 
Labor.  It  is  shown  by  the  careful 
investigation  into  the  course  of  prices 
of  257  commodities,  which  enter  into 
the  everyday  life  of  the  average  man, 
that  prices  last  March  were  higher 
than  at  any  time  since  twenty  years 
ago;  that  in  that  month  it  cost  the 
consumer  7.5  per  cent  more  to  buy 
the  necessities  of  life  than  it  had  cost 
him  in  March,  1909;  10.2  per  cent  more 
than  in  August,  1908;  21.1  per  cent 
more  than  the  average  range  of  prices 
for  1900;  49.2  per  cent  more  than  in 
1897,  —  a  rate  of  progression  which  is 
causing  a  country-wide  agitation  for 
means  and  measures  of  relief.  Yet  it 
is  shown  that  prices  in  1909,  high  as 
they  were,  still  ranged  2.3  per  cent 
below  those  for  1907,  the  costliest  year 
in  the  period  beginning  with  1890. 

ECONOMY,   WISE    AND    UNWISE 

WE  are  trying  to  publish  a 
magazine  in  every  sense  worth 
renewing.-  That  we  are  suc- 
ceeding to  a  certain  degree  is  shown 
by    the     increasing    number     of    our 


readers  who  are  renewing  their  annual 
subscriptions,  and  calling  for  back 
numbers,  in  order  to  bind  their  volumes 
and  keep  them  in  permanent  form  for 
future  reference  and  use. 

Not  long  since  we  shipped  to  Cal- 
cutta, India,  back  numbers,  to  com- 
plete a  full  set  of  fourteen  volumes, 
up  to  date.  A  woman  who  seems  to 
have  no  special  need  of  the  magazine 
wrote  recently,  "I  am  sending  my 
renewal  because  it  seems  to  me  the 
magazine  is  entirely  too  good  a  publi- 
cation not  to  be  found  in  every  good 
home." 

Though  the  cost  of  living  at  present 
is  high,  we  hope  no  good,  earnest 
housekeeper  will  begin  to  practice 
economy  by  cutting  off  her  list  the 
only  publication,  to  which  she  has  sub- 
scribed, that  is  devoted  exclusively  to 
the  teaching  of  practical,  wholesome 
economy  in  the  management  of  the 
household.  The  subscription  price  of 
this  magazine  will  not  be  increased. 
For  three  dollars  we  offer  to  renew  the 
subscription  of  any  reader  for  four 
years. 


A  Lift  for  Every  Day 

Lincoln's  rules  for  living:  "Don't 
worry,  eat  three  good  meals  a  day, 
say  your  prayers,  be  courteous  to 
your  creditors,  keep  your  digestion 
good,  steer  clear  of  biliousness,  exer- 
cise, go  slow  and  go  easy.  Maybe 
there  are  other  things  that  your  special 
case  requires  to  make  you  happy,  but, 
my  friend,  these,  I  reckon,  will  give 
you  a  good  lift." 


"This  cook-book  will  do  very  nicely," 
said  Mrs.  Nuwedd  to  the  book  depart- 
ment clerk;  "and  now  I  want  a  good, 
standard  work  on  taxidermy."  "We 
don't  keep  any  in  stock,  "  said  the  clerk. 
"How  anno3dng!"  sighed  the  young 
housewife,  "and  I  not  knowing  a 
blessed  thing  about  stuffing  a  fowl!" 


Terrine  of  Chicken  and  Cooked  Ham  Garnished:  Aspic  Jelly 
AND  Lettuce  Hearts 


Seasonable  Recipes 


By  Janet  M.  Hill 


IN  all  recipes  where  flour  is  used,  unless  otherwise  stated,  the  flour  is  measured  after  sifting 
•■•  once.  When  flour  is  measured  by  cups,  the  cup  is  filled  with  a  spoon,  and  a  level  cupful 
is  meant.  A  tablespoonful  or  a  teaspoonful  of  any  designated  material  is  a  level  spoonful 
of  such  material. 


Clam  Broth,  Chantilly  Style 

THIS  most  refreshing  broth  may 
be  served  hot  or  cold.  Canned 
broth  may  be  used,  or,  when 
fresh  clams  are  obtainable,  the  broth 
may  be  fresh  made  from  either  clams 
in  bulk  or  in  the  shells.  For  clams  in 
bulk,  to  serve  eight,  take  one  pint  of 
fresh  opened  clams,  two  stalks  of 
celery,  broken  in  pieces,  and  one  quart 
of  cold  water.  Bring  the  whole  slowly 
to  the  boiling  point  and  let  boil  five 
minutes.  Skim  carefully  as  soon  as 
the  boiling  point  is  reached.  Strain 
through  a  napkin  wrung  out  of  boiling 
water.  Season  with  salt,  if  needed; 
add  also  a  little  paprika  or  other  pepper. 
Beat  one  cup  of  double  cream  until 
firm  throughout.  Set  a  tablespoonful 
of  the  cream  on  the  top  of  the  broth  in 
each  cup. 


Bisque  of  Clams  and  Green  Peas 

Cut  a  slice  of  fat  salt  pork  (about 
two  ounces)  in  bits ;  cook  in  a  saucepan 
until  the  fat  is  well  tried  out  but  not  in 
the  least  browned;  add  a  small  onion, 
cut  in  thin  slices,  two  new  carrots,  cut 
in  slices,  one  or  two  branches  of  celery, 
broken  in  pieces,  and  stir  and  cook  until 
softened  and  yellowed  a  little;  add  one 
pint  of  green  peas,  a  branch  of  parsley 
and  a  pint  of  water  and  let  cook  till 
the  peas  are  tender,  then  press  through 
a  sieve.  Cook  one  pint  of  fresh  clams 
in  a  pint  of  boiling  water  five  minutes ; 
drain  the  broth  into  the  pea  puree; 
chop  the  clams  and  add  to  the  puree. 
Melt  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter;  in  it 
cook  one-fourth  a  cup  of  flour;  stir 
until  frothy,  then  add  one  quart  of 
milk  and  stir  until  boiling.  Add  to  the 
other    ingredients    and    let    boil    once. 


81 


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THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Add   salt   and   pepper,  as  needed,  and 
from  one-half  to  a  whole  cup  of  cream. 

Puree  of  Tomato,  Julienne 
Chop  fine  about  two  ounces  of  raw, 
lean   ham;  add   an   onion,  cut  in  thin 


enough  cooked  tomatoes  through  a 
sieve  to  make  one  pint;  add  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  pepper  as  de- 
sired. Stir  one-third  a  cup  of  flour 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  with  milk  to 
make  a  smooth  batter;  dilute  with  a 


Terrine  of  Chicken  and  Ham,  Cooling 


slices,  two  small  new  carrots,  sliced, 
half  a  green  pepper,  sliced,  and  two 
branches  of  parsley;  cook  these,  stirring 
often,  in  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  fat  from  the  top  of  a  kettle  of  soup. 
When  lightly  browned,  add  the  bones 
from  a  roast  of  chicken  or  veal,  the 
skinned  feet  of  the  chicken,  and  the 
uncooked  giblets,  if  at  hand,  two  quarts 
of  water  and  one  quart  of  tomatoes,  cut 
in  slices.  Let  simmer  one  hour  and  a 
half.  Strain  through  a  fine  sieve,  press- 
ing through  all  the  pulp  (no  seeds). 
Reheat,  stir  one-fourth  a  cup  of  flour 
with  cold  water  to  pour  and  stir  into 
the  boiling  soup.  While  the  soup  is 
cooking,  cut  in  short  julienne  strips 
two  stalks  of  celery,  an  onion,  a  carrot 
and  a  cup  of  string  beans;  let  cook  in 
salted  water  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
butter  until  tender;  drain,  rinse  in  cold 
water  and  set  aside  to  serve  in  the 
soup. 

Simple  Tomato  Bisque  (Soup) 

Scald  one  quart  of  milk  with  a  stalk 
of  celery  and  two  slices  of  onion.    Press 


little  of  the  hot  milk,  stir  until  smooth, 
then  stir  into  the  rest  of  the  hot  milk. 
Continue  stirring  until  smooth  and 
thick;  cover  and  let  cook  fifteen  min- 
utes. Strain  into  the  hot  puree,  mix 
thoroughly  and  serve  at  once  with 
croutons. 

Jellied  Bouillon  (Two  quarts) 

Have  about  four  pounds  of  beef 
from  the  hind  shin,  cut  it  into  small 
pieces ;  melt  the  marrow  from  the  bone 
in  a  frying  pan;  in  it  cook  part  of  the 
bits  of  meat  until  nicely  browned.  Put 
the  bone  and  the  rest  of  the  bits  of  meat 
into  a  soup  kettle  and  add  five  pints  of 
cold  water.  When  the  meat  is  browned , 
add  it  to  the  soup  kettle.  Put  a  cup  or 
more  of  the  water  from  the  soup 
kettle  into  the  frying-pan;  let  stand 
to  dissolve  the  glaze  in  the  pan,  then 
return  to  the  soup  kettle.  Cover  and 
let  simmer  four  or  five  hours;  add  half 
a  cup,  each,  of  sliced  onion  and  carrot, 
one  or  two  large  branches  of  parsley, 
one  or  two  stalks  of  celery  and  let  cook 
an  hour  longer.     Strain  off  the  broth 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


83 


and  set  it  aside,  first,  if  necessary,  add- 
ing boiling  water  to  make  two  quarts 
of  broth.  Add  also  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper 
and  an  ounce  (half 
a  package)  of  gel- 
atine, softened  in 
half  a  cup  of  cold 
water.  When  cold 
and  set  remove  the 
fat;  break  up  the 
jelly  with  a  spoon  or 
silver  fork;  serve  in 
bouillon  cups  at  any 
meal  where  it  is 
desired. 


spoonful  of  salt  and  let  cook  until  the 
potatoes  are  tender.  Add  a  pint  of 
green  com.  carefully  cut  from  the  cob, 
and   one   pint   of   milk,    also   salt   and 


Bologna  Style  Sausage  with  Pineapple  Fritters 


Green  Corn  Chowder 
(To  Serve  Six) 

Cut  tw"o  slices  (about  two  ounces)  of 
fat  salt  pork  into  tiny  bits;  let  cook  in 
a  frying-pan  until  the  fat  is  well  tried 
out,  taking  care  to  keep  the  whole  of  a 
straw  color.  Add  two  small  onions,  or 
one  of  medium  size,  cut  in  thin  slices, 
and  let  cook  until  softened  and 
yellowed,  add  a  pint  of  water  and  let 
simmer.  In  the  meantime  pare  and 
cut  four  potatoes  in  thin  slices,  cover 
with  boiling  water  and  let  boil  five 
minutes;  drain,  rinse  in  cold  water 
and  drain  again,  then  strain  over  them 
the  water  from  the  onions  and  pork, 
pressing  out  all  the  juice  possible. 
Add  more  water,  if  needed,  and  a  tea- 


pepper  to  season.  Mix  thoroughly  and 
let  become  very  hot,  then  serve  at 
once.  Two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter  may  be  added,  by  small  bits, 
and  stirred  into  the  soup  just  before 
serving. 

Escalloped  Oysters 
Finnelli  (The  Caterer) 
Select  a  shallow  au  gratin  dish ;  pour 
into  it  about  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  butter  and  turn  the  dish,  to 
spread  the  butter  over  the  whole 
surface.  Sprinkle  lightly  with  crushed 
saltine  crackers  or  oysterettes;  upon 
the  crumbs  dispose  a  layer  of  carefully 
cleaned  oysters;  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
paprika  or  other  pepper  and  pour  on 
three   or    four    tablespoonfuls.  of    rich 


Cold  Meat  with  Vegetable  Salad 


84 


THE    BOSTON   COOKIXG-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


cream;  add  crushed  crackers,  oysters, 
seasoning,  one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter,  in  little  bits,  then  more  cream. 
Finish   with    a   thin    laver   of   cracker 


The  pork  should  be  cut  exceedingh^ 
thin.  Over  the  pork  spread  a  thin 
layer  of  the  veal  forcemeat  mixture, 
over  this  put  a  thin  sHce  of  cold  boiled 


Chickex-axd-Ham  Rissoles 


crumbs  and  enough  cream  to  moisten 
them.  Let  cook  in  a  very  hot  oven 
about  ten  minutes  or  until  the  crumbs 
are  straw  color. 

Terrine  of  Chicken  and  Ham 

Scrape  the  pulp  from  the  fibers  in 
half  a  pound,  each,  of  veal  and  fresh 
pork;  pound  this  pulp  in  a  mortar;  add 
the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful.  each,  of  salt  and  paprika  and, 
if  desired,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry 
and  pound  again,  then  press  through 
a  sieve.  Remove  the  bones  from  the 
breast,  second  joints  and  legs  of  a 
young  chicken,  weighing  about  two 
pounds.  Have  an  oval  terrine,  or 
shallow  casserole,  that  holds  about 
three  pints.  Line  the  bottom  and 
sides  with  thin  slices  of  larding  pork. 


ham.  on  the  ham  a  la3'er  of  forcemeat. 
then  half  of  the  chicken  (light  and  dark 
meat) ;  sprinkle  lighth'  with  salt  and 
pepper,  spread  with  forcemeat,  a  layer 
of  ham.  forcemeat,  chicken,  forcemeat, 
ham,  forcemeat  and,  lastly,  a  layer  of 
larding  pork.  Pour  in  half  a  cup  of 
broth,  cover,  and  set  the  terrine  into 
an  agate  dish  or  a  saucepan.  Pour  in 
boiling  water  to  half  the  height  of  the 
terrine  and  let  cook  in  the  oven  one 
hour  and  a  half.  Remove  the  cover 
and  set  a  board  with  weight  upon  it 
over  the  meat,  to  remain  till  cold. 
Remove  fat  and  loosen  the  meat  from 
the  dish  at  the  edge.  Unmold  on  a 
dish.  Ornament  with  tiny  cubes  of 
jelly  (made  of  broth  from  the  rest  of 
the  chicken  and  the  trimmings  of  the 
veal,  thickened  with  gelatine"),  slices  of 


Cheese  Salad  ix  Molds  lixed  witr  Strips  of  Pimexto 


SEASONABLE    RECIPES 


85 


truffle  and  lettuce  hearts.  This  dish 
is  suitable  for  high  tea,  lawn  parties, 
picnics  and  automobile  baskets.  Let- 
tuce served  with  it  should  be  seasoned 
with  French  dressing. 

Bologna  Style  Sausages  with 
Pineapple  Fritters 

Prick  the  sausages  on  all  sides  that 
the  skin  may  not  burst  in  cooking.  Set 
into  a  moderate  oven  in  a  frying-pan. 
Let  cook  about  half  an  hour,  then  turn 
them  and  let  cook  another  half  hour. 
Just  before  the  sausages  are  done  pour 
some  of  the  fat  into  another  frying-pan 
(or  keep  the  sausage  hot  on  the  serving 


spoonful  of  mayonnaise  or  tartare 
sauce  above  the  vegetables  in  each  nest. 
Tomatoes,  cut  in  slices  or  in  julienne 
strips,  may  be  used  in  place  of  the  beet 
and  radish,  but  not  with  either  of 
them. 

Vinaigrette  Sauce 

Allow  a  tablespoonful  of  oil  and  half 
a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  for  each 
service.  To  this  add  one-eighth  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  pepper  as  de- 
sired, gherkins  or  capers  (the  latter 
with  cold  lamb) ,  chives  (or  onion  juice) , 
chervil  and  parsley  to  taste,  all  chopped 
exceedingly  fine. 


Green  Corn  au  Gratin  in  Ramekins 


dish  and  use  the  original  pan).  Have 
ready  some  half  slices  of  pineapple, 
roll  these  in  flour  and  let  cook  in  the 
hot  fat  until  browned  on  one  side,  then 
turn  and  cook  on  the  other  side.  If 
preferred  the  pineapple  may  be  dipped 
in  fritter  batter  instead  of  flour.  Dis- 
pose the  pineapple  at  the  ends  of  the 
dish  and  serve  at  once. 

Cold  Meat  with  Vegetable  Salad 

Cut  cold  meat  of  any  variety  in  thin 
slices;  trim  off  all  unedible  portions 
and  dispose  neatly  in  the  center  of  an 
ample  dish.  Around  the  meat  set 
heart  leaves  of  lettuce,  each  holding 
six  or  eight  cold,  cooked  string  beans, 
cut  in  pieces,  a  few  slices  of  radish  and 
a  slice  of  cooked  beet.  Pour  vinaigrette 
sauce  over  the  whole  or  set  a  table- 


Chicken-and-Ham  Rissoles 

Cut  tender  cooked  chicken  and  ham, 
three-fourths  chicken  and  one-fourth 
ham,  into  tiny  cubes.  The  meat  may 
be  chopped,  but  it  is  preferable  to  have 
tangible  pieces  of  small  size.  For  one 
pint  of  meat,  melt  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter;  in  it  cook  four  tablespoon- 
fuls of  flour  and  half  a  teaspoonful,  each, 
of  salt  and  paprika;  when  frothy  stir 
in  one  cup  of  chicken  broth  and  half 
a  cup  of  cream;  stir  until  boiling,  then 
add  a  beaten  egg;  stir  until  cooked, 
then  stir  in  the  meat  and  let  cool.  The 
mixture  should  be  quite  consistent. 
Seasonings,  as  onion  or  lemon  juice, 
celery  salt,  or  chopped  truffles,  or 
fresh  mushrooms,  broken  in  pieces  and 
sauted    in    butter,  may   be    added    at 


86 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


pleasure.  Have  ready  some  flaky 
pastry  or  part  plain  and  part  puff 
paste.  Stamp  out  rounds  three  and  a 
half   or   four   inches   in    diameter.      If 


KUGELHOPF    KUCHEN    SlICED    AND    ToASTED 


plain  and  puff  paste  be  used  have  an 
equal  number  of  rounds  of  each.  On 
the  rounds  of  plain  paste  put  a  generous 
tablespoonful  of  the  meat  mixture, 
spreading  it  toward  the  edge;  brush 
the  edge  of  the  paste  with  cold  water; 
make  two  small  openings  in  each  round 
of  puff  paste,  press  these  rounds 
over  the  meat  on  the  others,  brush 
over  with  milk,  or  yolk  of  egg  diluted 
with  milk  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 
Serve  hot  with  a  tomato  or  mush- 
room sauce,  or  cold  without  a  sauce. 
Cold  corned  beef  is  good  used  in 
this  way.  Rissoles  are  often  brushed 
over  with  egg  and  fried  in  deep 
fat. 


KCGELHOPF  KuCHEN  ReaDY  TO  ShAPE 


Cheese  Salad 

Line  each  "flute"  in  small  fluted 
molds  with  narrow  strips  of  pimento. 
For  this  recipe  six  or 
seven  molds  will  be 
needed.  Beat  one  cup 
of  cream,  one-fourth  a 
teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt 
and  paprika  till  firm. 
Soften  half  a  level  table- 
spoonful  of  gelatine  in 
about  one-eighth  a  cup 
of  cold  water;  dissolve 
by  setting  the  dish 
in  warm  water.  To 
the  dissolved  gelatine 
add  half  a  cup,  generous  measure, 
of  grated  cheese  of  any  variety. 
Stir  until  cool,  then  fold  into  the 
cream.  Use  this  mixture  to  fill  the 
molds.  When  cold  and  firm  un- 
mold  and  serve  with  a  plain  lettuce 
salad.  French  or  mayonnaise  dressing 
may  be  used  with  the  lettuce.  Bread 
or  crackers  should  also  be  provided. 
Hot  pulled  bread  or  toasted  crackers 
are  excellent.  As  the  pimentos  flavor 
the  dish  strongly,  nothing  that  does 
not  harmonize  with  them  should  be 
presented  at  the  same  time.  If  the 
pimento  prove  objectionable — they 
sometimes  cause  flatulency  —  strips  of 
uncooked  tomato  may  be  substituted^ 

Plain  Pastry 

Sift  together  two 
and  one-half  cups 
of  pastry  flour,  a 
teaspoonful  of  bak- 
ing powder  and  half 
a  teaspoonful  of 
salt;  work  in  half  a 
cup  of  shortening, 
then  stir  in  cold 
water  as  is  needed 
to  make  a  paste. 
Knead  slightly  on  a 
floured  board ;  cut 
off  half  the  paste  for 
the    lower   rounds. 


SEASONABLE   RECIPES 


87 


Flaky  Paste 

Roll  the  other  half  of  the  paste  into 
a  rectangular  sheet,  dot  one  half  with 


cavities  in  the  pears.  Mix  the  fruit 
with  apricot,  peach  or  apple  marma- 
lade and  use  to  fill  the  open  spaces  in 
the  pears.    For  a  dozen  halves  of  pears, 


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Pears  Beatrice 


tiny  bits  of  butter,  fold  the  unbuttered 
paste  over  the  other,  dot  half  of  this 
with  bits  of  butter,  fold  as  before,  dot 
one  half  with  butter,  fold  as  before, 
then  roll  out  into  a  thin  sheet  for  the 
upper  rounds.  The  paste  may  be 
chilled  to  advantage  before  rolling.  In 
pastry  making  a  magic  cover  may  be  used 
more  successfully  than  a  marble  slab. 

Pears  Beatrice 

Cut  choice  pears  in  halves,  length- 
wise; remove  the  skin  and  the  seed 
cavity.  Cook  tender  in  a  little  sugar 
and  water.  Cut  into  small  bits  enough 
French  candied  fruits  to   half  fill  the 


scald  one  pint  of  rich  milk ;  sift  together, 
several  times,  three-fourths  a  cup, 
each,  of  sugar  and  flour,  dilute  with 
some  of  the  hot  milk  and  stir  until 
smooth  and  return  to  the  rest  of  the 
milk;  stir  the  whole  until  thick  and 
smooth,  cover  and  let  cook  fifteen 
minutes,  stirring  occasionally.  Beat 
the  yolks  of  five  eggs;  add  one-fourth 
a  cup  of  sugar  and  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt  and  beat  again,  then  stir  into 
the  hot  mixture;  continue  stirring 
until  the  ^'gg  is  cooked,  then  fold  in 
the  whites  of  five  eggs,  beaten  dry, 
continuing  the  cooking  and  folding 
until  the  white  is  set  or  cooked.    Flavor 


Peach  Salad 


88 


THE    BOSTOxN    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


with  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 
Turn  part  of  this  cream  into  an  au 
gratin  dish  (sometimes  called  cocotte 
and    sometimes    Welsh    rabbit    dish). 


softened  and  yellowed;  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour  and  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt  and  cook  until  frothy;  add 
two  cups  of  thin  cream  and  cook  and 


Grape  Juice  Parfait  Sprinkled  with  Chopped  Pistachio  Xuts 


Dispose  the  pears  in  the  cream,  cover 
with  the  rest  of  the  cream,  sprinkle  the 
whole  with  dried  and  pulverized  maca- 
roons, mixed  with  melted  butter.  Set 
the  dish  into  the  oven  to  brown  the 
crumbs.     Serve  hot  in  the  dish. 

Green  Corn  au  Gratin  in  Ramekins 

Cook  one  slice  of  onion  and  a  slice 
of  green  pepper,  chopped  fine,  in  one 
or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  until 


stir  until  boiling,  then  stir  in  sweet  corn, 
cut  from  the  cob,  to  make  quite  a  con- 
sistent mixture.  One  or  two  beaten 
eggs  may  be  added,  if  desired.  Turn 
into  buttered  ramekins  and  cover  with 
two-thirds  a  cup  of  cracker  crumbs 
mixed  with  melted  butter;  let  cook  in 
the  oven  until  the  crumbs  are  browned. 
Serve  as  an  entree  at  dinner  or  luncheon, 
or  as  the  chief  dish  at  supper  or 
luncheon. 


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Watermelon  Cones 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


89 


Kugelhopf  Kuchen 
for  Afternoon  Tea 

Take  one  pound  of  flour  (four  cups) , 
ten  ounces  (one  cup  and  a  fourth)  of 
butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar, 
one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one 
cake  of  compressed  yeast,  two  or  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  lukewarm  water  and 
seven  eggs. 

Soften  the  yeast  in  the  water,  mix 
thoroughly,  and  stir  in  enough  of  the 
flour  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Knead 
the  little  ball  of  dough;  with  a  knife 
slash  across  it  in  opposite  directions 
and  drop  it  into  a  small  saucepan  of 
lukewarm  water.  Put  the  rest  of  the 
flour,  the  salt,  sugar  and  butter,  broken 
up  into  bits,  into  a  mixing  bowl;  add 
four  of  the  eggs  and  with  the  hand  work 
the  whole  to  a  smooth  consistency, 
then  add  the  rest  of  the  eggs,  one  at  a 
time,  and  continue  beating  each  time 
until  the  paste  is  smooth.  When  the 
little  ball  of  sponge  has  become  very 
light,  at  least  twice  its  original  size, 
remove  it  with  a  skimmer  to  the  egg 
mixture,  add  a  cup  of  large  raisins, 
from  which  the  seeds  have  been  re- 
moved, and  work  the  whole  together. 
Let  stand  to  become  double  in  bulk. 
Cut  down  and  set  aside  in  an  ice  chest 
overnight.  Shape  on  a  board  either 
into  a  loaf  or  buns.  When  again  light 
and  puffy  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  Cut 
the  cake  into  thick  shces.^ 

Toast  these  ovei"^  quick  fire,  being 
careful  (by  i(ft>t*  moving  the  cake 
while  toasting)  to  retain  the  lines 
of  the  toaster.  Spread  with  butter, 
sprinkle  w'ith  sugar  and  cinnamon, 
mixed,  and  serve  at  once  on  a  hot 
napkin.  The  sugar  and  cinnamon  may 
be  omitted. 

Peach  Salad 

Set  pared  halves  of  choice  peaches 
in  nests  of  lettuce  hearts  and  pour 
on  enough  French  dressing  to  season 
nicely.  Sprinkle  with  blanched  almonds 
cut  in  thin  slices.     For  a  change,  omit 


the  nuts  and  set  chopped  celery,  mixed 
with  mayonnaise  dressing,  in  the  open 
space  of  each  half  of  peach,  or  the  nuts 
may  be  mixed  with  the  celery.  Fresh 
or  rather  firm  canned  peaches  may  be 
used.  Use  lemon  juice  as  the  acid  in 
both  the  French  and  mayonnaise 
dressings. 

Grape  Juice  Parfait 

Boil  one-third  a  cup  of  grape  juice 
and  three-fourths  a  cup  of  sugar  to 
240°  Fahr.  or  until  it  will  spin  a  thread 
two  inches  in  length.  Pour  in  a  fine 
stream  upon  the  whites  of  two  eggs, 
beaten  dry,  then  beat  occasionally 
until  cold.  To  one  cup  and  a  fourth  of 
double  cream  add  half  a  cup  of  grape 
juice  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  beat 
until  firm  throughout.  Fold  the  two 
mixtures  together  and  turn  into  a 
quart  mold;  cover  securely  and  pack 
in  equal  measures  of  rock  salt  and 
crushed  ice. 

When  unmolded  sprinkl^  with  fine- 
chopped  pistachio  nuts  blanched  be- 
fore chopping. 

Watermelon  Cones 

Cut  a  ripe  and  chilled  watermelon  in 
halves,  crosswise  the  melon.  Use  a 
tea,  soup  or  tablespoon,  as  is  desired. 
Press  the  bowl  of  the  spoon  to  its  full 
height  down  into  the  melon,  turn  it 
around  until  it  comes  again  to  the 
starting  place,  lift  out  the  cone  of 
melon,  remove  the  seeds  in  sight  and 
dispose  on  a  serving  dish.  When  all 
the  cones  possible  have  been  cut  from 
the  surface  of  the  half  melon,  cut  off 
a  slice  of  rind  that  extends  to  the 
tip  of  the  cones,  then  remove  the  red 
portion  of  the  melon  in  cones  as 
before. 

Grape  Juice  Sherbet 

Prepare  as  peach  sherbet,  substitut- 
ing grape  juice  for  peach  juice.  Scald 
the  grapes  and  strain  through  cheese- 
cloth.   Cool  before  freezing. 


Menus  for  a  Week  in  August 

'*As  a  business  there  is  nothing  derogatory  in  the  preparation  of  our  daily  food,  and  the 
rewards  are  greater  than  in  many  walks  of  life.'* 


Breakfast 

Red  Raspberries,  Cream 

Flora dora  Buns  (reheated) 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Bisque -of-Clams  and  Green  Peas 
Stuffed  Tomatoes 

Cheese  Salad 

Toasted  Crackers 

Peach  Sherbet,  Whipped  Cream 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 
Cold  Corned  Beef,  Sliced  Thin 

Potato  Salad 

Tiny  Baking  Powder  Biscuit 

Hot  Coffee 


Breakfast 

Melons.      Broiled  Lamb  Chops 

Mai'tre  d'Hotel  Butter 

French  Fried  Potatoes 

German  Coffee  Cake.     Coffee 

Dinner 

Guinea  Fowl  Soup 

Broiled.Swordfish,  Parsley  Butter 

Mashed  Potatoes 

Cucumbers,  French  Dressing 

Eggplant  Fritters.     Lemon  Sherbet 

Little  Gold  Cakes.     Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Egg  Salad,  Garnish  of  Sliced  Tomatoes 

Graham  Bread  and  Butter 

Blueberries.    Tea 


Breakfast 

Breakfast 

Barley  Crystals,  Thin  Cream 

Melons.     Eggs  Cooked  in  the  Shell 

Corned  Beef-and-Potato  Hash 

Green  Com  Griddle  Cakes 

Rye  Meal  Muffins 

Toasted  Bread,  Buttered.    Coffee 

Sliced  Tomatoes 

Dinner 

< 

Coffee 

Fried  Chicken.     Com  Fritters 

Dinner 

Boiled   Cauliflower,    Hollandaise    Sauce 

Q 

Hamburg  Steak 

Berry  Pie 

^ 

Com  on  the  Cob 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

O 

Stewed  Tomatoes 

Supper 

Succotash 

Blackberry  Shortcake 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

(Green  Corn  and  Shelled  Beans) 

Supper 

Hot  Apple  Sauce 

Shell  Beans,  Stewed 

Cream  Cheese 

Cream  Toast 

Cookies 

Berries.    Tea 

Tea 

Breakfast 

Grapes 

Omelet  with  Creamed  Fish  Fiakes 

Baked  Potatoes 

Zwiebach.    Coffee 

Dinner 

Guinea  Fowl,  Roasted 

Candied  Sweet  Potatoes 

Apple-and-Celery  Salad 

Baked  Rice  Pudding,  Vanilla  Sauce 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Green  Com  Custard 

Bread  and  Butter 

Sliced  Peaches 
Sponge  Cake.    Tea 


Breakfast 

Grapes 

Barley  Crystals,  Thin  Cream 

Fish  Flake  Balls, 

Bacon  Rolls.     Sliced  Tomatoes 

Yeast  Rolls.     Coffee 

Dinner 

Boiled  Swordfish,  Egg  Sauce 

Boiled  Potatoes.    Pickled  Beets 

Summer  Squash 

Grape  Juice  Parfait 

Marguerites.     Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Creamed  Celery  with  Poached  Eggs  on 

Toast 

Berries.     Bread  and  Butter.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Barley  Crystals,  Thin 

Cream.     Sliced  Peaches 

Field  Mushrooms 

(Campestris)  Stewed, 

on  Toast 

Eggs  Cooked  in  the  Shell 

Yeast  Rolls.      Coffee 


Dinner 

Simple  Mock  Bisque  Soup 
Swordfish  Salad  with 

Vegetables 
Blackberry  Shortcake 
Half  Cups  of  Coffee 
90 


Supper 

Cold  Tongue  in  Jelly 

Maj^onnaise  of 

Eggs-and-Lettuce 

Hot  Yeast  Rolls 

Sliced  Peaches.     Tea 


Menus  for  a  Week  in  September 

"  A'len  drink  because  they  have  a  sinking  feeling;  good  food  satisfies  that   craving  per* 
ntanently."  —  Adelaide  Keen. 


Breakfast 

Melons 

Egg-O-See,  Thin  Cream 

Country  Ham,  Broiled.  Sliced  Tomatoes 

Broiled   Potatoes.      Com   Meal   Muffins 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Chicken,  Roasted.    Green  Com  Custard 

Sweet  Potatoes,  Southern  Style 

Cauliflower,  Hollandaise  Sauce 

Celery,  Club  Style 

Peach  Sherbet.    Sponge  Cakelets 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Clam  Broth 
Apple  Sauce.     Bread  and  Butter 


Breakfast 

Egg-O-See,  Thin  Cream 

Corn  Beef  and  Green^Pepper  Hash 

Poached  Eggs.  "Waffles 

White  Clover  Honey 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Stuffed  Bluefish,  Baked 

Cucumbers,  French  Dressing 

MashedPotatoes.  Scalloped  Tomatoes 

Apple  Pie.      Cheese 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Rice  Croquettes,  Cheese  Sauce 
Graham  Bread  and  Butter 
Baked  Pears.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Barley  Crystals,  Thin  Cream 

Minced  Chicken  on  Toast 

BroUed  Tomatoes.    Rye  Meal  Muffins 

Coffee.    Cocoa 

Dinner 

Stuffed  Flank  of  Beef,  Roasted 

Tomato  Sauce 

Green  Com  on  the  Cob.     Baked  Squash 

Endive,  French  Dressing 

Baked  Sweet  Apples,  Thin  Cream 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

New  Lima  Beans,  Stewed,-  in  Cream 

Bread  and  Butter 

Sliced  Peaches.    Tea 


Breakfast 

Gluten  Grits,  Thin  Cream 
Eggs  Cooked  in  Shell 
Blackberry  Shortcake 
Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Hamburg  Roast,  Tomato  Sauce 

Scalloped  Potatoes 

Late  Green  Peas.     Celery 

Peach  Tapioca  Pudding,  Cream 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Scalloped  Oysters,  Finnelli,  Philadelphia 
Relish.  Tiny  Baking  Powder  Biscuit 
Berries.       Cookies.       Tea 


Breakfast 

Broiled  Honeycomb  Tripe 

Maitre  d'Hotel  Butter 

French  Fried  Potatoes.    Parker  House 

Rolls.       Blackberries.       Coffee.       Cocoa 

Dinner 

Chicken-and-Tomato  Soup 

Boiled  Corned  Beef 

Boiled  Potatoes,  Cabbage  and  Beets 

Baked  Indian  Pudding 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream.    Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Green  Corn  au  Gratin 
Bread  and  Butter 
Hot  Apple  Sauce 
Gingerbread.    Tea 


Bacon 


Breakfast 

Codfish  Balls  of  Fish  Flakes, 
Stewed  Tomatoes 
Baking  Powder  Biscuit,  Reheated 
Doughnuts.     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Boiled  Fresh  Haddock,  Egg  Sauce 

Sliced  Tomatoes,  French  Dressing 

Boiled  Potatoes 

Late  Stringless  Beans 

Baked  Apples  with  Meringue 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Succotash 

Bread  and  Butter.    Stewed  Crab  Apples 

Wafers.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Creamed  Corned  Beef 

and  Celery 

White  Hashed  Potatoes 

Green  Com  Griddle 

Cakes 

Coffee.     Cocoa 


Dinner 

Veal  Balls  en  Casserole 

Stewed  Shell  Beans 

Endive  Salad 

Sponge  Cake  filled  with 

Sliced  Peaches,  Cream 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

91 


Supper 

Creamed  Haddock  au 

Gratin 

Pickled  Beets 

Buttered  Toast 

Stewed  Pears 


Economical  Menus  for  a  Week  in  September 

*'At  a  small  dinner,  no  one  should  hesitate  to  ask  for  more  if  he  desires  it;  it  would  only  he 
considered  a  flattering  tribute  to  the  dish.''  —  Mrs.  Henderson. 


Breakfast 

Egg-0-See,  Top  of  Milk 

Creamed  Fish  Flakes 

Baked  Potatoes 

Sliced  Tomatoes 

Doughnuts.     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Boiled  Shoulder  of  Lamb,  Pickle  Sauce 

Boiled  Potatoes.     Mashed  Turnips 

Lettuce,  French  Dressing 

Peach  Pie,  Cream  Cheese 

•    Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Cheese-and-Nut  Sandwiches 

Hot  Apple  Sauce 

Tea.     Cocoa.     Cookies 


Breakfast 

Egg-0-See,  Thin  Cream 
Broiled  Bacon 
Fried  Potatoes 

Cream  Toast 
Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Round  Steak  en  Casserole 
Celery- 
Cream  Puffs 
Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Stewed  Cranberry  Beans 

Baking  Powder  Biscuit 

Cream  Puffs 

Cocoa.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Broiled  Honeycomb  Tripe 

Creamed  Potatoes 

Rye  Biscuit.     Coffee 

Dinner 

Rechauffe  of  Lamb  with  Macaroni 

and  Tomato  Sauce 

Summer  Squash 

Lettuce-and-Celery  Salad 

Rice  Pudding  with  Raisins 

Coffee 

Supper 

Stewed  Cranberry  Beans 

Rye  Biscuit.     Stew^ed  Crab  Apples 

Rochester  Gingerbread.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Grapes 

French  Hash  (remnants  from  Casserole) 

Fried  Corn  Meal  Mush 

Dry  Toast.     Coffee 

Dinner 

Cream-of-Potato  Soup 

Stuffed  Tomatoes,  Baked 

or 

Cabbage  Scalloped  with  Cheese 

Chocolate-Cornstarch  Pudding, 

Sugar,  Cream 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

•  Supper 

Green  Com  Fritters.     Bread  and  Butter 

Stewed  Crab  Apples.     Cottage  Cheese 


Breakfast 

Breakfast 

Gluten  Grits.     Blackberries 

Blackberries,  Sugar,  Cream 

Green  Com  Griddle  Cakes 

Fish  Flakes,  Country  Style 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Baked  Potatoes 

Dinner 

Lamb-and-Tomato  Soup 

Graham  Baking  Powder  Biscuit 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Canned  Salmon  Heated  in  Can, 

Dinner 

t— ( 

Egg  Sauce.     Boiled  Potatoes 

Boiled  Swordfish,  Pickle  Sauce 

SHced  Tomatoes  and  Cucumbers 

or 

O 

Apple  Dumpling 

Broiled  Swordfish,  Maltre  d'Hotel  Butter 

> 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Boiled  Potatoes 

Supper 

Cheese  Custard 

Onions  in  Cream  Sauce  or  Buttered 

Cabbage  Salad.    Blueberry  Pie.    Coffee 

Hot  Apple  Sauce 

Supper 

(Cooked  in  closed  Casserole) 

Potato  Salad,  Sardines.    Rye  Biscuit 

Bread  and  Butter.     Tea 

Baked  Apples.     Tea 

Breakfast 

Egg-0-See,  Thin  Cream 

Tomato  Cream  Toast  with 

Cheese 

Corn  Meal  Muffins 

Coffee.     Cocoa 


Dinner 

Hamburg  Steak 

Stewed  Tomatoes 

Squash 

Coffee  Jelly,  Whipped 

Cream 

92 


Supper 

Creamed     Swordfish    (left 

over) 

Potatoes  Scalloped  with 

Onions  and  Cheese 

Pickled  Beets 
Cookies.  Tea 


Rhymed  Receipts  for  any  Occasion 

By  KImberly  Strickland 


NUT  WAFERS 


Here's  a  cake  for  dainty  eating. 

Peanut  butter,  just  a  cup 
In  the  bowl  some  soda  meeting 

(Half  a  teaspoon,  you  take  up). 

Add  one  cup  of  clear,  warm  water, 
Stir  till  paste  is  smooth  as  silk, 

Leaving  not  a  trace,  my  daughter. 
Of  the  soda  —  white  as  milk. 


Then,  still  beating  like  a  Vandal, 

Mix  in  flour  just  enough 
To  form  dough  that  you  can  handle  - 

It  must  be  a  plastic  stuff. 

Knead  this  well  with  your  ten  fingers, 
After  which  roll  very  thin, 

Seek  where  moderate  heat  lingers 
As  the  place  to  bake  it  in. 


Let  the  oven  do  its  duty. 
You'll  discover  by  and  by 

That  each  wafer  is  a  beauty, 

When  it  comes  out  crisp  and  dry. 


BANANA  SALAD 


Select  bananas,  gold  of  hue, 

And  uniform  in  size, 
With  care  remove  the  fruit,  and  slice 

Quite  thin  —  I  would  advise. 

Mix  these  slim  rounds  with  pecan  meats. 

Broken  in  tiny  bits. 
And  grape-fruit  shredded  finely,  too. 

And  robbed  of  all  its  pits. 


This  medley  next  is  drenched  with  oil, 
And  lemon  juice  combined, 

The  hollow  skins  are  then  filled  up  — 
Or,  shall  we  say,  relined? 

Now  place  upon  crisp  lettuce  leaves. 

Or  curly  water-cress, 
The  golden  shapes,  and  walnuts  add, 

Shorn  of  their  outer  dress. 


FRENCH  ORANGE  COMPOTE 


Sugar  and  water  you  combine 
To  make  a  syrup  sweet. 

Adding  a  little  lemon  juice. 
The  flavor  to  complete. 


Peel  oranges,  the  seeds  remove, 

Cut  into  quarters  true. 
Lay  in  the  boiling  syrup  next. 

And  cook  ten  minutes  through. 


Place  on  a  crystal  dish  the  fruit 
O'er  which  the  syrup  pour. 

And  strew  with  candied  cherries  red  — 
To  give  the  one  touch  more, 
93 


In  Time  of  Vacation 

By  Janet  M.  Hill 


AXY  part  of  a  house  in  disorder 
and  confusion  is  a  source  of 
^  mental  distress  to  a  neat  and 
conscientious  housekeeper,  and  often  an 
occasion  for  slurs  from  other  members 
of  the  famil)'.  The  number  of  steps 
to  be  taken  and  the  motions  to  be 
made,  each  day,  to  keep  a  house  in 
order  and  set  three  meals  upon  a  table 
are  often  overlooked  or  largely  under- 
estimated. We  are  speaking  now  of 
the  homes  of  the  ''four- fifths,"  where 
httle  help  outside  of  the  family  is 
available.  Mothers  are  thought  "slow 
and  pok\*"  by  the  3'ounger  members 
of  the  famil}',  who  are  inclined  to 
value  the  sUght  and  irregular  assistance 
which  they  give  more  highly  than  it 
desen^es.  There  are  members  of  the 
family,  perhaps,  who  should  keep  their 
strength,  mental  and  physical,  for  their 
work  awa}'  from  home;  but  in  general 
the  \'oung  people  should  be  trained  to 
take  a  part  in  the  responsibilit}'  of  the 
housekeeping  and  home-making.  If 
boys  and  girls,  as  soon  as  they  are  old 
enough,  be  taught  to  open  their  beds 
for  airing,  hang  up  their  clothing  and 
leave  the  bowl  and  bath  tub  in  suit- 
able condition  for  the  next  occupant 
of  the  room,  the  mother  can  prepare 
the  breakfast  and  begin  the  work  of 
the  day  without  fret  as  to  the  con- 
dition of  the  upper  part  of  the  house,* 
or  without  the  mental  fatigue  that 
comes  where  there  are  so  many  things 
to  be  done  at  once  that  one  knows  not 
where  to  begin. 

!,>  Often  where  one  maid  is  kept,  too 
much  is  expected  of  her,  even  b\^  the 
house -mother.  With  the  advent  of  a 
maid,  the  dishes  multiply  and  time  is 
spent  in  dish  washing  that  should  be 
given  to  the  larger  affairs  of  the  house- 
keeping.  For  the  mother  or  one  maid  the 


washing  of  dishes  must  be  regulated  to 


make  the  work  an  incident  and  not 
the  event  of  the  day.  We  are  not 
protesting  against  a  change  of  plates,  or 
forks,  etc.,  for  the  dessert;  but  extra 
dishes  for  vegetables,  the  plate  imder- 
neath  the  plate,  both  handled  and 
therefore  to  be  washed,  much  glass- 
ware that  requires  careful  washing  and 
pohshing,  all  tend  to  prolong  the  tim5 
at  the  sink.  Such  work  may  be  in- 
creased at  will,  when  some  one  is  hired 
for  this  special  purpose,  or  when  the 
daughter  of  the  family  is  willing  to 
take  the  responsibihty  of  it.  For  the 
mother  or  the  one  maid,  day  in  and 
day  out,  more  necessary  duties  must 
eliminate  some  of  the  niceties  of  table 
ser\'ice.  We  should  not  be  "more  nice 
than  wise. " 

We  beUeve  in  work;  it  is  the  refuge 
and  the  safeguard  of  the  race:  but 
there  must  be  times  for  relaxation  and 
repose,  and,  that  this  be  possible  for 
each  member  of  the  family,  there  must 
be  a  division  of  labor.  If  one  indi- 
vidual be  a  drone,  some  one  else  is 
obhged  to  work  for  him.  We  wish  to 
emphasize  the  necessity  of  systematic 
training,  in  the  doing  of  these  daily 
duties,  of  the  \^oung  people  in  a  family. 
Let  each  child  be  held  responsible  for 
a  certain  amount  of  work  each  day. 
It  will  not  burden  the  normal  child, 
but  will  give  satisfaction  and  a  feeling 
of  being  of  use  in  the  world.  Xo  better 
time  than  this,  the  vacation  season, 
can  be  found  for  putting  in  practice 
the  idea  herein  suggested. 

We  are  admonished  by  many  in- 
novations that  times  have  changed. 
The  fact  that  graduates  from  Colleges 
of  Home  Economics  are  taught  to  see 
the  subject  in  "its  broad  relations,  both 
to  science  and  to  practice,"  and  that 
every  graduate  is  expected  "to  have 
a  fair  working  knowledge  of  the  house- 


i94] 


THE   TASK  WE   LOVE 


95 


hold  arts"  and  be  able  to  cook  a  meal 
or  make  a  dress,  has  given  the  practice 
of  the  so-called  homely  arts  an  impetus 
that  will  do  much  for  the  betterment 
of  the  race.  Cooking  and  sewing  have 
had  a  renaissance.  To  be  able  to  cook 
well  is  a  desideratum  to  be  desired,  and 
rivalry  in  pleasing  and  artistic  tea- 
rooms, "cake  and  cooky  shops"  and 
places  for  the  sale  of  cooked  food  is 
abroad  in  the  land.  We  look  to  see 
this  same  pleasing  rivalry  displayed 
in  dressmaking  rooms  and  laundries, 
where  fine  work  can  be  essayed. 
These  private  and  small  enterprises, 
which  might  grow  into  larger  ones, 
should  furnish  a  generous  return  for 
the  time  and  money  invested  and  an 
increase  in  the  happiness  of  those  em- 
ployed as  well  as  of  those  whom  they 
serve.  All  of  these  ventures  are  at 
once  a  source  of  independence  to  the 
serving  and  the  served,  and  give  an 
opportunity  for  self-direction  that 
argues  well  for  their  permanency. 

Earthen   dishes   for   cooking,   which 
conserve  heat  and  answer  for  serving 


as  well  as  cooking,  are  to  be  commended 
at  all  seasons;  but  in  hot  weather, 
when  it  is  eminently  desirable  to  limit 
heat  and  work,  they  are  more  than 
ever  a  source  of  pleasure  and  comfort. 
Not  so  very  long  ago  all  such  ware  was 
imported,  and  the  duty,  added  to  the 
first  cost,  placed  it  in  the  list  of  lux- 
uries, but  now  the  dainty  contours  of 
all  these  casseroles,  ramekins,  terrines, 
au  gratin  dishes,  etc.,  are  duplicated  in 
American  ware,  and  at  a  price  that 
puts  the  goods  within  the  reach  of  all. 
In  the  seasonable  recipes  for  this 
issue,  terrine  of  chicken  and  ham, 
green  com  au  gratin  in  ramekins,  and 
pears  Beatrice  are  cooked  in  Guernsey 
earthen  ware.  An  extremely  useful  dish 
in  this  ware  is  the  mixing  bowl  in  which 
Kugelhopf  kuchen,  ready  for  shaping, 
is  shown.  Nothing  daintier  for  mixing 
purposes  than  this  bowl  of  smooth  and 
highly  poHshed interior  can  be  imagined; 
from  such  a  surface  any  mixture  can 
be  rinsed  with  ease,  and  thus  the  labor 
of  dish  washing  is  lessened,  which  is  a 
strong  point  in  favor  of  any  utensil. 


The  Task  We  Love 

By  L.  M.  Thornton 


Here's  to  the  task  we  love, 

Whatever  that  task  may  be, 
To  till  the  soil,  in  the  shop  to  toil, 

To  sail  o'er  the  chartless  sea. 
For  the  work  seems  light  and  the  guerdon 

bright, 
If  to  heart  and  hand  'tis  a  stire  delight. 


Here's  to  the  task  we  love, 

Wherever  it  lead  our  feet, 
Through  stress  and  strife  or  the  simple  life, 

For  still  are  its  victories  sweet. 
And  we  never  tire,  if  our  hearts  desire 
Flame  in  its  dross-consuming  fire. 


Here's  to  the  task  we  love, 

The  task  God  set  us  to  do. 
And  we  shall  not  pale  nor  faint  nor  quail 
And  for  us  there's  no  such  word  as  fail, 

If  we  follow,  with  purpose  true. 
The  creed  He  writes,  and  the  star  He  lights 
To  guide  our  soul  to  the  distant  heights. 


A  Group  of  Choice  Spanish  and  Mexican  Recipes 


By  Mrs.  L.  Rice 


Baked  Tripe,  Spanish 

BOIL  four  pounds  of  fresh  tripe 
until  tender;  drain  and  sprinkle 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  ar- 
range in  a  well-buttered  dish.  Pour 
over  it  one  quart  of  chopped  tomatoes, 
one  large  onion,  sliced  very  thin,  one- 
half  a  cup  of  chopped  parsley,  and  skin 
of  one  large  red  pepper,  minced  fine, 
one-half  a  cup  of  chopped  olives  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  tabasco  sauce.  Pour 
over  all  one-half  a  cup  of  melted 
butter  and  bake  one  hour. 

This  is  equal  to  finest  fish  and  is 
certainly  dehcious. 

Chili  Con  Carne,  Spanish 

To  prepare  the  chili  used  in  this 
dish:  from  two  pods  of  dried  red  chili 
peppers  take  out  all  the  seeds  and 
discard  them.  Soak  the  pods  in  warm 
water  until  soft,  then  scrape  pulp  from 
the  skins  into  the  water,  discarding 
the  skins  and  saving  the  pulp  and 
water.  Cut  two  pounds  of  round  steak 
into  small  pieces  and  cook  in  hot 
frying  pan,  in  pork  drippings,  until 
well  browned;  add  three  or  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour  and  stir  until  browned, 
then  add  one  clove  of  gariic,  in  which 
two  gashes  have  been  cut,  and  chili 
water,  of  which  there  should  be  about 
one  pint;  let  simmer  until  meat  is 
tender  (about  two  hours),  adding  hot 
water  if  needed. 

When  done  the  sauce  should  be  of 
good  consistency;  add  salt  to  taste. 

String  Beans,  Spanish 
Take  two  pounds  of  green  string 
beans  and  chop  fine.  Put  one  table- 
spoonful  of  bacon  drippings  in  a  frying 
pan  and  one  onion,  cut  fine,  half  a  dry 
red  pepper,  cut  fine;  let  onion  and 
pepper  fry  brown,  then  add  three  ripe 


tomatoes,  cut  fine,  and  stir  in  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour;  then  add  one 
quart  of  cold  water;  then  the  chopped 
beans,  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste, 
and  let  the  beans  cook  until  tender; 
keep  adding  water  as  needed,  so  as 
not  to  let  them  get  too  dry. 

Spaghetti  a  la  Mexicana 

Fry  three  large  pork  chops  brown. 
Fry  three  minced  onions  and  two 
cloves  of  garlic  in  pork  drippings.  Put 
the  chops  and  onions  into  a  granite 
kettle  with  two  cans  of  tomatoes  and 
two  green  chili  pepper  pods  (remove 
the  seeds),  one  tablespoonful,  each,  of 
dry  chili  powder,  brown  sugar,  tarra- 
gon vinegar  and  sage,  one  teaspoonful 
of  Worcestershire  sauce  and  celery 
salt,  table  salt  to  suit;  let  simmer 
slowly  until  pork  chops  fall  to  pieces; 
strain  through  coarse  colander.  This 
sauce  should  be  of  the  consistency  of 
thick  cream,  without  adding  any  thick- 
ening. 

Boil  one-half  a  package  of  spaghetti 
in  large  kettle  of  salted  boiling  water; 
do  not  break  into  short  pieces,  but 
drop  ends  into  the  water  and  gradually 
immerse  the  whole  stick.  Keep  the 
water  boiling  rapidly,  adding  boiUng 
water  as  it  boils  down;  do  not  cover; 
let  boil  forty-five  minutes,  drain  in 
colander  and  pour  one  quart  of  cold 
water  through  to  blanch. 

Put  the  spaghetti  into  the  tomato 
sauce  and  set  on  stove  where  it  will 
keep  hot,  but  not  boil,  for  fifteen 
minutes.  Arrange  in  a  deep  platter 
and  sprinkle  top  with  grated  Parme- 
san cheese. 

Serve  with  grated  cheese  and  stuffed 
olives.  If  care  is  taken  in  preparing 
this  dish  you  will  be  rewarded  with 
something  certainly  delicious,  and  a 
typical  Mexican  dish. 


96 


THE   NURSERY 


97 


Rice,   Spanish 

Put  two  frying  pans  on  the  stove, 
and  in  each  put  one  teaspoonful  of 
bacon  fat.  Take  one  onion  and  four 
green  chiHs,  chop  very  fine,  salt;  put 
this  in  one  frying  pan  and  cook  until 
done  without  browning.  In  the  other 
pan,  put  one  cup  of  rice,  washed  and 
dried;  stir  and  let  cook  a  light  brown; 
add  the  onion  and  chilis  and  one  cup  of 
tomato;  fill  frying  pan  with  boiling 
water  and  let  cook  until  rice  is  dry. 

Ice  Cream  a  la  Mexicana 

Put  two  cups  of  granulated  sugar 
in  saucepan  over  fire  and  stir  con- 
stantly until  it  is  melted ;  add  two  cups 
of  English  walnut  meats  and  pour 
into  shallow,  buttered  pan  to  harden. 
When  perfectly  cold,  grate  or  chop 
fine.  Crumble  two  dozen  macaroons 
into  fine  crumbs,  then  toast  in  hot 
oven  a  few  minutes.  Now  make  a  rich, 
boiled  custard,  of  yolks  of  four  eggs, 
one-half  a  cup  of  sugar  and  two  cups 
of  cream,  then  pour  over  the  stiff- 
beaten  whites  of  two  eggs  and  let  cool. 
To  one  quart  of  cream  add  one-third 
a  cup  of  sugar  and  beat  until  thor- 
oughly mixed,  add  to  the  custard,  and 


flavor  with  vanilla  or  maraschino,  then 
freeze.  When  half  frozen  add  the 
macaroon  crumbs  and  half  of  the 
grated  walnut  mixture  and  finish  freez- 
ing. Let  ripen  two  or  three  hours. 
Sprinkle  remaining  grated  walnuts 
over  the  cream  when  serving.  This 
is  the  typical  ice  cream  of  Mexico,  just 
as  it  is  served  there. 

Caramels  a  la  Mexicana 

Put  one  cup  of  granulated  sugar 
in  an  iron  skillet  and  stir  constantly 
over  a  slow  fire  until  the  sugar  is 
melted.  As  soon  as  the  sugar  becomes 
syrup,  add  one  cup  of  rich  milk  or 
cream,*  and  stir  until  sugar  is  dis- 
solved. Add,  next,  one  cup,  each,  of 
granulated  and  light  brown  sugar  and 
boil  steadily  until  mixture  forms  a  soft 
ball  when  tested  in  cold  water.  Take 
from  the  fire,  add  one  cup  of  coarse 
chopped  nut  meats  and  stir  to  creamy 
consistency.  Pour  into  shallow  pans, 
lined  with  paraffine  paper,  spread 
smoothly  about  half  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness and  mark  into  squares  while 
warm. 


*  Dissolve  the  caramel  in  half  a  cup  of  boiling  water, 
then  add  the  cream  or  milk;  by  this  means  the  liability 
of  the  milk  or  cream  to  curdle  is  lessened.  —  Editor. 


The   Nursery 

By  E.  R.  Parker 


IT  is  frequently  a  matter  of  surprise 
to  foreigners  that  in  the  average 
American  home,  which  is  other- 
wise so  well  equipped,  little  or  no  atten- 
tion is  given  to  the  nursery,  and  it  is 
to  this  neglect  they  trace  many  of  the 
shortcomings  of  our  little  ones. 

It  may  be  that  the  busy  mother,  who 
has  to  perform  the  duties  of  nurse- 
maid and  perhaps  look  after  her  house- 
hold   at    the    same    time,    sees    little 


reason  for  having  a  room  specially 
dedicated  to  the  use  of  the  children; 
but  when  one  considers  the  necessity 
of  regularity  in  the  feeding,  bathing, 
sleeping,  and  every  other  particular  of 
the  infant's  daily  life,  such  a  need 
becomes  apparent,  with  the  arrival  of 
the  first  baby.  Select  a  room  in  a 
secluded  part  of  the  house,  and  one 
which  receives  all  the  sunshine  possible, 
for  the  nursery.     Fresh  air  should  be 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


admitted  at  all  times,  but  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  avoid  drafts.  For  the 
use  of  the  young  infant,  limit  the  fur- 
nishings to  bare  necessities,  and  have 
the  floor  and  walls  hard  finished.  It 
is  not  well  to  have  plumbing  of  any 
kind  in  the  room,  nor  should  it  be 
directly  connected  with  the  bathroom. 
Regulate  the  temperature  carefully, 
letting  it  range  between  75  and  80 
degrees  Fahr.  during  the  first  week; 
after  that  it  may  be  kept  at  75  degrees 
until  the  child  is  three  months  old,  and 
then  gradually  lowered  to  70  degrees 
or  even  65,  at  night.  Needless  to  say 
the  metal  crib  is  the  most  important 
furnishing;  it  should  be  fitted  with  a 
soft  hair  mattress  and  a  thin  pillow, 
though  some  persons  prefer  to  use  no 
pillow  at  all.  Under  no  circumstances 
should  the  baby  sleep  with  its  mother, 
and  eminent  physicians  now  agree  that 
it  is  more  or  less  injurious  for  a  child 
to  sleep  in  the  room  with  an  adult. 
Dr.  Cotton,  the  distinguished  specialist 
for  children,  recommends,  as  additional 
furnishings  for  the  infant's  room,  a 
flexible  rubber  bathtub,  a  bath  ther- 
mometer, wall  thermometer,  scales  and 
a  double  ewer  and  soap  dish  on  a  low 
table  surrounded  by  a  high  folding 
screen. 

As  the  child  grows  older  it  will  re- 
quire the  addition  of  low  chairs,  tables, 
etc.,  in  the  nursery;  these  should  be 
simple  and  substantial.  Do  not  fit  up 
the  nursery  with  broken  or  cast-off 
articles  of  furniture  from  other  parts 
of  the  house.  Few  mothers  realize 
what  a  deep  impression  these  early 
surroundings  make  upon  the  child,  and 
how  nervous,  sensitive  children  may 
be  made  to  endure  positive  suffering 
from  contact  with  unsightly  objects. 

A  window  seat,  that  will  also  serve 
as  a  convenient  receptacle  for  toys,  may 
be  made  by  having  the  top  hinged  on 
a  low  wooden  box,  and  covering  the 
box  with  some  suitable  dark  material. 
Do  not  make  the  mistake  of  giving 
children    a    quantity    of   toys    at    one 


time ;  such  a  practice  has  the  bad  effect 
of  dulling  their  sense  of  enjoyment 
and  making  them  tire  easily  of  their 
playthings.  If  fond  relations  insist 
upon  trying  to  shower  all  the  dolls  and 
books  and  drums  in  town  on  them  for 
one  Christmas  or  birthday  celebration, 
try  putting  some  of  them  away  and 
keeping  them  for  rainy  days  or  the 
trying  period  of  convalescence.  Toys 
which  will  excite  the  imagination  and 
leave  something  to  their  own  ingermity 
are  to  be  preferred  to  those  that  are 
complete  in  themselves.  Among  the 
former  are  paints,  brushes  and  outline 
pictures,  games,  dolls  with  patterns 
and  material  for  clothing,  stone  building 
blocks,  which  come  in  different  sizes 
and  shapes  with  designs  for  building. 

Decorate  the  w^alls  with  stencil  de- 
signs or  a  few  good  pictures,  which 
should  be  chosen  with  reference  to  the 
child's  age.  Few  persons  are  aware 
that  until  a  child  is  three  years  old  he 
cannot  distinguish  clearly  between 
green,  gray  and  blue,  hence"  decora- 
tions containing  these  colors  are  lost 
upon  him,  and  the  reason  for  his  love 
of  red  and  yellow  is  apparent.  The 
Perkins  pictures,  issued  by  the  Prang 
Educational  Company,  are  justly  popu- 
lar for  nursery  walls,  and  photographs 
of  the  masterpieces  can  be  purchased 
quite  reasonably.  A  small  bookcase 
should  also  be  given  an  honored  place 
in  the  nursery,  for  older  children,  and 
nothing  but  books  of  the  very  best 
from  a  hterary  standpoint,  well  printed 
on  good  paper  and  substantially  bound, 
should  find  their  way  to  its  shelves. 
Cheap  toy  books  from  the  five  and 
ten  cent  counters,  many  of  which  are 
poorly  bound,  grotesquely  illustrated 
and  insipid  in  contents,  had  better  be 
kept  away  from  the  children.  I  would 
rather  give  them  one  good  book  a  year 
than  an  armful  of  poor  ones.  Some 
children  do  not  enjoy  being  read  to, 
but  all  of  them  love  a  story,  and,  with 
a  little  tact  on  the  part  of  the  mother, 
it  is  but  a  step  from  the  story  she  tells 


PRACTICAL  HOME  DIETETICS 


99 


to  the  one  she  reads,  and  she  can  easily 
cultivate  a  taste  for  good  reading,  for, 
after  all,  she  is  the  genius  that  shapes 
and  molds,  and  without  whom-  the 
most  ideal  nursery  is  but  a  dreary 
place.    We  are  told  that  even  the  songs 


an  occult  influence  over  its  future  life. 
What  a  power  and  privilege,  then,  are 
hers  to  guide  the  little  groping  hands 
and  watch  the  unfolding  mind;  and 
surely  she  should  spare  neither  time 
nor  trouble  in  the  accomplishment  of 


she  sings  to  the  babe  at  her  breast  have     such  a  task! 


Practical  Home  Dietetics 

By  Minnie  Genevieve  Morse 

II.     The  Role  of  Diet  in  Reducing  and  Increasing  Weight 


IN  addition  to  the  natural  and  proper 
inclination  to  make  the  best  of 
oneself,  there  is  scientific  reason 
in  the  stout  woman's  desire  to  reduce 
her  weight,  and  the  painfully  thin 
woman's  wish  to  take  on  a  few  more 
pounds  of  flesh;  health  itself  is  at  its 
best  when  the  body  maintains  its 
normal  proportions,  without  serious 
loss  or  gain.  Any  considerable  varia- 
tion from  the  normal  standard  shows 
a  disturbance  in  the  balance  of  nutri- 
tion; either  the  vital  fire  is  being  fed 
too  generously,  and  the  excess  of  fuel, 
instead  of  being  turned  into  heat  and 
energy,  is  accumulating  in  the  tissues, 
to  be  a  burden  to  the  organism  and, 
perhaps  in  time,  cause  disease,  or  else 
the  expenditure  of  force  is  greater 
than  the  supply  of  fuel,  the  bodily 
tissues  are  drawn  upon  to  aid  in  feed- 
ing the  fire,  and  all  the  systems  of  the 
body  suffer  from  the  insufficiency  of 
nourishment.  Stout  people  become 
increasingly  disinclined  to  either  physi- 
cal or  mental  exertion ;  they  are  apt  to 
suffer  from  indigestion  and  constipa- 
tion, rheumatic  troubles  and  shortness 
of  breath;  and,  when  a  condition  of 
actual  obesity  is  reached,  a  fatty 
degeneration  of  one  or  more  of  the 
vital  organs  is  liable.  The  insufficiently 
nourished  person,  on  the  other  hand, 
is    usually    anaemic   and  nervous,    the 


weak  and  faulty  performance  of  many 
of  the  bodily  functions  testifying  to 
the  lack  of  proper  nutrition. 

With  regard  to  the  matter  of  physical 
attractiveness,  the  advantage  of  proper 
proportion  between  the  weight  and  the 
height  is  obvious.  The  too-thin  woman 
has  fewer  difficulties  to  contend  with 
than  her  too-stout  sister,  in  fulfilling 
fashion's  requirements,  for  her  figure 
can  be  modified  to  a  far  greater  extent 
by  the  dressmaker's  art.  But  the  face 
and  hands  cannot  be  filled  out  corre- 
spondingly, and  the  thin  woman  early 
takes  on  lines  and  wrinkles,  usually 
looking  much  older  than  a  plumper 
woman  of  the  same  age. 

Proper  balance  between  the  intake 
of  food  and  the  outgo  of  energy  is 
thus  necessary,  both  for  the  mainte- 
nance of  good  health  and  for  the 
preservation  of  one's  fair  share  of 
natural  comeliness.  The  generally- 
accepted  standard  of  weight  in  propor- 
tion to  height  which  a  woman  should 
maintain,  in  order  to  fulfil  these  re- 
quirements, is  as  follows:  Five  feet 
one  inch,  120  pounds;  five  feet  two 
inches,  126  pounds;  five  feet  three 
inches,  133  pounds;  five  feet  four 
inches,  136  pounds;  five  feet  five 
inches,  142  pounds;  five  feet  six  inches, 
145  pounds;  five  feet  seven  inches,  149 
pounds;    five    feet    eight    inches,    155 


100 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


pounds;  five  feet  nine  inches,  162 
pounds ;  five  feet  ten  inches,  169  pounds. 

The  purposes  for  which  food  is  taken 
into  the  body  are  two:  the  rebuilding 
of  the  bodily  tissues,  which  are  con- 
stantly consumed  by  physical  and 
mental  activities,  and  the  production 
of  heat  and  energy.  During  the  period 
of  growth,  the  body  necessarily  de- 
mands a  large  amount  of  tissue-build- 
ing material,  and  it  is  natural  and 
reasonable  that  a  growing  child  should 
have  a  large  appetite,  and  be  ready  to 
eat  at  all  times  of  day.  If,  however, 
a  person  who  has  come  to  maturity 
continues  to  eat  as  heartily  as  in  early 
life,  more  food  is  taken  into  the  body 
than  is  required  after  the  growing 
period  is  ended,  a  heavy  strain  is  put 
upon  the  organs  which  remove  waste 
products  from  the  system,  and  there  is 
likely  to  be  a  deposition  of  fat  in  the 
tissues.  Another  factor  in  producing 
these  results  is  the  fact  that  the  adult 
usually  leads  a  far  less  active  life, 
physically,  than  the  growing  child,  so 
that  less  food  is  needed  for  transforma- 
tion into  energy,  as  well  as  for  the 
purpose  of  body-building. 

This  is  even  more  true  now  than  it 
was  a  few  generations  ago;  the  higher 
standard  of  luxury  in  the  modem 
manner  of  life,  labor-saving  devices  of 
every  kind,  and  improved  transporta- 
tion facilities,  which  have  almost  re- 
duced out-door  exercise  to  a  matter  of 
country-club  athletics,  are  among  the 
reasons  for  the  present-day  lack  of 
physical  activity  among  both  men  and 
women.  It  must  not  be  forgotten, 
however,  that  our  high-pressure  modem 
life  also  favors  the  existence  of  a  class, 
who,  instead  of  feeding  their  vital  fires 
too  generously,  are  inadequately  nour- 
ished; among  the  contributing  factors 
in  this  case  are  improper  food,  hasty 
and  unattractively  served  meals,  un- 
hygienic ways  of  living,  and  the  heavy, 
nervous  strain  that  makes  havoc  of  so 
many  lives,  in  one  way  or  another. 

Considering    first    the    case    of    the 


woman  who  is  above  the  normal 
standard  of  weight,  it  may  be  said  in 
the  beginning  that  there  are  few  stout 
people  who  cannot  safely,  and  without 
resorting  to  any  dubious  measures, 
reduce  their  weight  sufficiently  to  im- 
prove not  only  their  appearance,  but 
their  comfort  and  general  vigor  as  well. 
Such  results  are  not  produced  in  a 
moment,  however,  and  patience,  per- 
severence  and  a  considerable  exercise 
of  will-power  may  be  necessary. 

Any  decided  deviation  from  one's 
usual  manner  of  life  should  not  be 
undertaken  without  the  advice  of  a 
competent  physician.  Constitutions 
have  been  wrecked,  and  even  lives 
lost,  by  such  tampering  with  nature's 
laws.  Exercise  and  diet  are  the  two 
great  aids  in  reducing  weight,  but 
either,  by  being  carried  to  extremes, 
or  attempted  under  unsuitable  condi- 
tions, m.ay  do  more  harm  than  good. 
One  procedure  which  cannot  be  too 
strongly  condemned  is  the  use  of  the 
various  "anti-fat"  preparations,  which 
are  among  the  patent  medicines  that 
have  afflicted  a  credulous  world;  such 
"remedies"  are  worse  than  useless,  as 
they  may  do  actual  harm  by  upsetting 
the  digestion,  or  otherwise  disturbing 
nutrition,  while  it  is  beyond  the  power 
of  any  drug  to  control  such  a  complex 
process  as  that  of  the  balance  between 
waste  and  repair  in  the  human  body. 
If  the  desired  effect  is  actually  pro- 
duced, it  is  by  a  lowering  of  the  general 
health. 

Many  systems  of  exercises  have  been 
recommended  for  reducing  flesh,  espe- 
cially about  the  waist  and  hips,  and, 
when  used  in  moderation,  and  with  a 
physician's  assurance  that  none  of  the 
organs  of  the  body  will  be  injured  by 
their  use,  the  following  out  of  such  a 
system  will  not  only  aid  in  reducing 
the  weight,  but  will  improve  circula- 
tion and  nutrition,  and  increase  the 
general  bodily  vigor.  The  exercises 
usually  recommended  consist  princi- 
pally of  reaching,  stretching  and  bend- 


PRACTICAL  HOME  DIETETICS 


101 


ing  movements,  but  breathing  exercises 
are  also  useful,  as  deep  breathing  aids 
in  burning  up  fat.  Stair  climbing,  with 
the  body  erect  and  only  the  ball  of  the 
foot  placed  on  each  step,  is  also  highly 
recommended,  and  for  reducing  the  fat 
on  the  hips  the  "standing  run"  is 
especially  valuable.  Tennis,  golf,  bicy- 
cling, and  horseback  riding,  all  aid  in 
keeping  down  weight.  Walking  is, 
however,  the  exercise  par  excellence  for 
stout  people;  not  a  slow  and  languid 
saunter,  but  a  brisk  pace,  and  a  steadily 
increasing  distance.  Hill  climbing, 
when  there  is  no  danger  of  overtaxing 
the  heart,  is  even  more  effective  than 
walking  on  a  level. 

A  noted  physician,  who  has  success- 
fully reduced  many  stout  patients, 
lately  made  the  statement  that  many 
fat  people  were  willing  to  take  any 
sort  of  treatment  that  was  ordered  for 
them,  if  only  their  diet  was  not  re- 
stricted. It  is  upon  restriction  of  diet, 
however,  that  the  chief  dependence 
must  be  placed,  in  the  reduction  of 
weight ;  exercise  produces  a  more  rapid 
burning  up  of  fat  in  the  body,  but 
superfluous  fat  cannot  be  stored  up,  if 
the  material  for  it  is  not  supplied  to 
the  system.  Many  famous  systems  of 
reduction  by  restricted  diet  have  been 
given  to  the  world,  but  most  of  them 
are  so  severe  that  they  should  only  be 
used  under  the  direction  of  a  physician. 
All  of  these  systems  require  a  reduc- 
tion of  the  total  amount  of  food  taken, 
a  restriction  of  the  quantity  of  fluid 
allowed,  and  a  more  or  less  strict 
avoidance  of  those  food  substances 
which  are  most  readily  turned  into  fat 
in  the  body.  Most  of  them  also  pro- 
vide for  light  lunches  in  the  middle  of 
the  morning  and  afternoon,  as  these 
additional  meals  tend  to  lessen  the 
appetite  at  the  heavier  meals  of  the 
day. 

The  fat-making  foods  include  sugars, 
starches,  fat  meats,  butter  and  oil. 
It  is  not  safe  to  deprive  the  body 
entirely  of  these  groups  of  food  sub- 


stances, since  proper  nutrition  depends 
upon  a  wholesomely  balanced  diet,  but 
the  amount  of  them  taken  by  the 
average  person  can  be  very  greatly  cut 
down  without  any  danger  to  health. 
It  is  not  unusual  for  a  single  meal  to 
include  a  cream  soup,  bread  and  butter, 
potatoes,  macaroni,  a  starchy  vege- 
table, such  as  beans,  a  salad  dressed 
with  oil,  and  a  rice  or  cornstarch 
pudding,  —  a  list  of  articles  which,  as 
may  readily  be  seen,  contains  a  much 
larger  amount  of  fat-making  food  than 
is  required  by  the  actual  needs  of  the 
body. 

The  woman  who  is  in  earnest  to 
reduce  her  weight,  then,  should  eat  at 
each  meal  as  little  of  the  sweet  or 
starchy  articles  of  food  and  of  the  fats 
and  oils  as  is  compatible  with  health. 
Soup  is  best  omitted  altogether,  not 
only  because  the  cream  soups  and 
purees  contain  much  fat-making  ma- 
terial, but  also  because  as  little  fluid 
as  possible  should  be  taken  with  meals. 
Among  fish,  salmon,  bluefish  and  eels 
contain  more  fat  than  the  other  varieties 
of  sea  food.  Fat  meats  and  all  forms  of 
pork  should  be  avoided.  The  potato  is 
eaten  so  universally,  appearing  upon 
our  tables  at  almost  every  meal,  that 
its  omission  from  the  diet  often  seems 
a  severe  deprivation;  however,  it  is 
one  of  the  starchiest  of  foods,  and 
should  be  cut  entirely  out  of  a  menu 
planned  for  the  reduction  of  weight. 
Most  of  the  other  vegetables  grown 
below  ground  are  also  undesirable  for 
the  stout  person;  this  class  includes 
turnips,  carrots,  parsnips  and  beets,  — 
not,  however,  onions  or  radishes.  Peas 
and  beans  also  contain  a  good  deal  of 
starch.  It  is  almost  impossible  to 
eliminate  bread-stuffs  from  the  diet, 
yet  much  indulgence  in  the  "bread  and 
butter  habit"  is  fatal  to  the  woman 
who  desires  to  grow  thin.  Bread  has 
least  flesh-forming  power  when  thor- 
oughly toasted;  whole-wheat  bread 
contains  less  strach  than  that  made  of 
the  ordinary  white  flour,  while  gluten 


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THE   BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


bread  contains  still  less,  and  is  the 
most  desirable  form  for  the  stout 
person's  use.  Macaroni  and  spaghetti, 
rice,  and  the  breakfast  cereals  are  all 
included  in  the  list  of  very  starchy 
foods,  and  should,  therefore,  be  avoided. 
Sweets  of  every  sort  —  cakes,  pies, 
puddings,  ice  cream,  confectionery, 
chocolate,  jam  and  preserves — are  for- 
bidden to  one  who  is  engaged  in  a 
flesh-reducing  campaign.  Very  little 
butter  should  be  eaten;  no  mayonnaise 
dressing  or  olive  oil  in  any  form,  no 
cream,  and  not  much  milk,  —  none  at 
all  with  meals. 

The  list  of  articles  allowed  includes 
almost  all  kinds  of  fresh  fish;  lean 
meats  and  chicken;  eggs;  bread  in 
small  quantities,  when  stale  or  toasted; 
all  fresh,  green  vegetables,  such  as 
spinach,  lettuce,  celery,  asparagus  and 
tomatoes;  and  nearly  all  kinds  of  fresh 
fruits,  except  bananas,  which  are 
largely  made  up  of  starch.  Fruits 
stewed  without  sugar  are  also  per- 
mitted. This  is  neither  a  starvation 
diet  nor  prison  fare,  but  it  does  mean 
a  monotonous  bill  of  fare,  and  consider- 
able will-power  is  required  to  follow 
such  a  regimen  for  a  long  period. 
Where  a  reducing  diet  is  adopted  with- 
out the  advice  of  a  physician,  it  is  a 
safer  plan  to  eat  smaller  portions  of 
the  flesh-forming  foods  than  one  is 
accustomed  to,  than  to  cut  them  out 
of  the  menu  altogether. 

Drinking  liquids  with  meals  is  con- 
ducive to  increase  in  weight:  not  more 
than  one  small  cup  of  tea  or  coffee, 
or  one  small  glass  of  water,  should  be 
taken  with  a  meal.  Water  should, 
however,  be  taken  between  meals;  it 
is  dangerous  to  cut  the  amount  of 
water  taken  in  twenty-four  hours  down 
to  a  small  quantity,  as  a  deficiency  of 
water  in  the  system  is  liable  to  prevent 
the  kidneys  from  doing  their  proper 
work.  Chocolate  and  cocoa  are  fatten- 
ing. Beer  and  ale  are  well  known  to 
have  flesh-forming  properties,  and  all 
alcoholic  beverages  are  better  avoided. 


Napping  after  meals  aids  in  putting 
on  flesh,  and  should  not  be  indulged  in. 
Standing  for  twenty  minutes  or  half  an 
hour  after  meals  is  a  help  in  preventing 
the  deposition  of  fat  about  the  hips 
and  abdomen,  the  erect  position  pro- 
moting a  more  equal  distribution  of  the 
products  of  nutrition. 

Any  tendency  to  constipation  is  to 
be  prevented.  Laxative  fruits  and 
vegetables,  such  as  oranges,  apples, 
spinach  and  lettuce,  will  be  helpful 
here,  as  will  a  glass  of  cold  water  taken 
on  rising  in  the  morning. 

The  dietetic  treatment  of  excessive 
thinness  usually  appears  to  one  who 
is  engaged  in  trying  to  reduce  her 
weight  as  liberty  to  indulge  in  all  the 
good  things  of  this  life.  However,  it 
is  sometimes  more  difficult  to  build  up 
a  thin  person  than  to  reduce  a  stout 
one;  restriction  of  diet  and  persistence 
in  active  exercise  are  practically  cer- 
tain to  cause  a  loss  of  weight,  while 
many  factors,  besides  a  too- slender  diet, 
may  be  at  the  bottom  of  the  thin 
woman's  condition.  Diseases  of  many 
different  organs,  a  run-down  nervous 
condition,  too  much  hard  work  and 
too  little  rest,  improper  food,  and  dis- 
orders of  the  digestive  tract  are  among 
the  causes  that  may  produce  mal- 
nutrition, and  the  first  measure  adopted 
by  the  painfully  thin  person  should  be 
a  frank  talk  with  her  family  physician, 
as  the  diet  required  may  not  be  that 
intended  especially  for  increasing 
weight,  but  one  that  shall  improve 
nutrition  by  remedying  the  defective 
working  of  some  organ  or  system  of 
the  body. 

It  is  practically  hopeless  to  attempt 
to  build  up  a  patient  when  the  proper 
conditions  cannot  be  secured;  where 
there  is  no  possibility  of  relief  from  a 
severe  physical,  mental  or  nervous 
strain,  where  a  sufficient  amount  of 
sleep  is  impossible,  or  where  there  can 
be  no  escape  from  an  unhygienic  way 
of  life,  the  wisest  dietetic  measures  will 
accomplish  as  much  as  can  be  expected 


PRACTICAL  HOME  DIETETICS 


103 


of  them,  if  they  merely  enable  the  body 
to  hold  its  own  without  further  loss 
of  weight  and  strength. 

Under  favoring  circumstances,  how- 
ever, the  sugars,  starches,  fats  and 
oils,  which  the  stout  person  must  avoid, 
are  the  food  substances  from  which  the 
thin  person  may  expect  the  most  benefi- 
cial results.  Foods  difficult  of  digestion 
should  be  excluded  from  the  menu,  as 
an  attack  of  indigestion  might  mean  a 
considerable  set-back,  but  many  of  the 
most  nourishing  and  fat-producing 
articles  of  food  are  readily  digested  and 
assimilated,  though  they  should  not, 
of  course,  be  used  to  the  exclusion  of 
other  kinds  of  food. 

A  quart  or  two  of  milk  a  day,  when 
taken  in  addition  to  the  regular  meals, 
will  often  work  wonders;  the  cream 
should  be  stirred  into  it,  not  removed, 
and  a  raw  egg  may  be  beaten  into  an 
occasional  glassful.  Butter  should  be 
spread  with  a  generous  hand,  salad 
dressings  should  contain  as  much  oil 
as  is  practicable,  and  a  tablespoonful 
of  pure  olive  oil,  taken  after  each  meal, 
will  be  an  effective  aid,  and  also  pro- 
mote the  free  action  of  the  bowels,  that 
is  so  great  a  help  in  bringing  about  a 
condition  of  general  good  health. 

Properly  -  made  bread,  potatoes, 
starchy  vegetables,  like  beans  and  peas 
and  com,  macaroni  and  spaghetti,  rice, 
and  the-  whole  array  of  well-made 
breakfast  cereals,  with  a  generous 
supply  of  sugar  and  cream,  should  be 
well  represented  in  the  thin  person's 
diet.  Cream  sauces  should  be  used 
frequently  with  meat,  fish  or  vege- 
tables, and  cream  soups  and  purees 
are  to  be  preferred  to  bouillons  and 
other  thin  soups.  Ice  cream,  milk 
puddings,  and  other  nourishing  desserts 


may  have  a  place  .in  the  menu,  as  may 
all  sorts  of  sweet  fruits,  chocolate  and 
cocoa,  honey,  maple  sugar  and  syrup, 
and  even  simple  and  pure  confectionery. 
There  are  few  articles  of  food  that  are 
forbidden  to  the  woman  who  desires 
to  increase  her  weight,  except  those 
which  put  a  strain  upon  the  digestion. 
A  luncheon  in  the  middle  of  the  morn- 
ing and  one  in  the  afternoon,  with  a 
glass  of  hot  milk  before  retiring,  assist 
very  greatly  in  the  building-up  process, 
while  a  nap,  or  at  least  a  quiet  rest, 
after  the  midday  meal,  enables  the 
system  to  put  to  the  best  uses  the  fuel 
which  has  been  supplied  to  it.  Long 
hours  of  sleep,  avoidance  of  hurry  and 
tension,  regular  hours  for  meals  and 
pleasant  surroundings,  and  conversation 
at  mealtimes,  are  all  aids  in  overcoming 
the  tendency  to  excessive  thinness. 

With  regard  to  both  the  stout  and 
thin,  it  may  be  said  that  while  the 
quantity  and  kind  of  food  which  is  put 
into  the  body  is  unquestionably  the 
greatest  factor  in  maintaining  a  proper 
balance  between  its  waste  and  repair, 
its  income  and  outgo  of  energy,  it  is 
necessary  to  take  a  common-sense  view 
of  all  the  circumstances  of  each  individ- 
ual case:  to  make  sure  that  there  is  no 
organ  of  the  body  whose  functions  are 
improperly  performed;  to  avoid  alike 
the  temptation,  on  the  one  hand,  to 
decreased  activity,  and,  on  the  other, 
the  tendency  to  over-exertion;  to  lead 
a  well-balanced  and  hygienic  life;  and 
to  practise,  not  only  with  regard  to  the 
pleasures  of  the  table,  but  in  every- 
thing that  pertains  to  both  physical 
and  mental  health,  that  wise  choice 
and  accustomed  self  control  that  are 
the  mark  of  the  highest  type  of 
humanity. 


When  thou  dost  tell  another's  jest,  therein 
Omit  the  oaths,  which  true  wit  cannot  need: 
Pick  out  of  tales  the  mirth,  but  not  the  sin. 
He  pares  his  apple  that  will  cleanly  feed. 

—  George  Herbert. 


HOME  IDEAS 

AND 

ECONOMIES 


Contributions  to  this  department  will  be  gladly  received.     Accepted  items  will  be 
paid  for  at  reasonable  rates. 


A  Handy  Laundry  Bag 

A  CONVENIENT  laundry  bag  for 
use  in  each  sleeping  apartment 
is  easily  made  of  a  square  piece  of  stout 
material  of  desired  size,  hemmed  round 
the  edge,  and  having  a  two-inch  strap 
of  the  material  securely  sewed  to  each 
comer. 

When  the  four  straps  are  slipped  over 
a  closet  hook,  a  handy  bag  is  formed, 
easily  accessible  at  four  difTerent  places, 
and  easily  emptied  of  every  article  by 
simply  dropping  one  of  the  comers. 
Such  bags  are  pretty,  made  in  colors  to 
correspond  with  the  room  in  which 
they  are  used.  When  desiring  to  carry 
the  soiled  clothes  to  the  laundry  in  the 
receptacle  in  which  they  are  gathered, 
these  square  bags  will  be  found  much 
easier  to  handle  than  the  long  ones. 

Assisting  Memory 

One  of  the  great  helps  in  my  house- 
keeping is  a  small  blackboard  on  my 
kitchen  wall. 

Any  special  plan,  anything  about  the 
house  that  I  discover  requires  attention, 
or  any  list  of  materials  desired,  are 
noted  on  this  board.  I  then  dismiss  the 
matter  from  my  mind.  Each  morning 
I  look  it  over  carefully,  erasing  any- 
thing that  has  been  disposed  of  or 
passed  by,  place  on  it  any  new  record 
necessary,  and  note  the  special  duties 
of  the  day  or  week.  In  this  way  I  am 
reminded  of  the  many  duties  of  my 
housekeeping  without  being  unduly 
burdened  with  them. 


If  more  conscientious  housewives 
would  try  this  plan,  I  think  there 
would  be  fewer  nervous  women.  It  is 
the  carrying  of  the  multitudinous 
duties  of  housekeeping  in  the  memory 
long  before  they  are  actually  per- 
formed that  proves  so  burdensome. 

An  Improvised  Coat  Closet 

In  a  house  having  no  hall  or  place 
to  hang  the  coats  and  hats  in  common 
use,  I  recently  saw  a  very  clever 
improvised  closet.  The  frame  was 
made  of  wood  and  stained  oak;  it  was 
about  five  feet  high,  and  fitted  into  a 
corner  back  of  the  dining-room  door, 
being  about  four  feet  across  the  front 
and  three  feet  deep.  Over  this  frame 
green  burlap  was  tacked  smoothly  with 
fancy  brass-headed  nails.  The  entire 
front  opened  out  like  a  door.  The  top 
was  covered  to  make  it  dust-proof, 
and  a  piece  of  stout  canvas  formed 
the  floor.  Around  the  inside  stout 
cleats  were  attached  to  the  framework, 
into  which  hooks  were  placed  for  the 
clothing. 

In  another  house  similarly  restricted 
one  comer  of  the  dining-room  was  made 
equally  convenient,  but  not  so  well 
protected  from  the  dust,  by  placing  on 
the  wall  several  racks  for  the  clothing. 
To  hide  this  a  large  screen  was  placed 
about  it,  also  having  hooks  upon  the 
back. 

Neither  arrangement  in  any  way 
disfigured  the  room,  and  a  great  deal 
of  running  up  and  down  stairs  was 
saved.  a.  m.  a. 


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HOME   IDEAS   AND   ECONOMIES 


105 


Pickles  Without  Heat 

PACK  sound,  clean  vegetables  in  a 
stone  jar,  a  layer  of  vegetables  and 
salt;  do  not  be  sparing  with  the  salt. 
Let  these  remain  at  least  two  days. 
Rinse  well  in  cold  water.  Press  out 
carefulty  all  the  water.  Cover  with 
vinegar,  let  stand  over  night,  then 
press  this  vinegar  out.  Put  the  vege- 
tables in  a  jar  and  pour  over  it  the 
following :  Two  quarts  good  cider 
vinegar,  three  pounds  brown  sugar 
(light),  a  good  handful,  each,  of  whole 
cloves  and  cinnamon  bark,  one-half 
pound  celery  seed,  one-half  ounce 
tumeric,  one-eighth  pound  ground  mus- 
tard, one-half  pound  white  mustard 
seed.  Dissolve  sugar,  mustard  and 
tumeric  well,  pour  over  vegetables,  let 
stand  over  a  week  before  beginning  to 
eat.  Cabbage,  onions  and  cucumbers 
are  the  vegetables  used.  Be  sure  the 
cabbage  is  white  and  firm;  split  the 
cucumbers  and  slice  the  onions.  This 
is  not  heated  or  cooked. 

Be  sure  the  seasoned  vinegar  covers 
the  vegetables.  s.  j.  e. 


I  FIND  lard  pails  very  convenient 
receptacles  for  dry  supplies  like 
rice,  beans,  etc.  I  choose  those  whose 
covers  come  off  easily,  and  paste  paper, 
on  which  the  name  of  the  contents  is 
written,  on  each  one.  The  pails  are 
so  much  easier  to  handle  than  the  glass 
jars,  and  they  are  also  less  apt  to 
become  broken. 

Man}^  people  do  not  seem  to  know 
of  the  effectiveness  of  banana  skins  in 
cleaning  tan  leather  suit  cases  and 
similar  articles.  Rub  the  leather  well 
with  the  inside  of  the  skin,  then  wipe 
off  any  excess  of  moisture  with  a  dry 
cloth,  finishing  with  a  good  polishing 
with  the  same. 

1  had  read  of  kerosene  being  a 
splendid    remedy    for   burns,  but  had 


never  tried  it.  A  short  time  ago,  how- 
ever, I  found  the  soda  can  empty  when 
most  needed,  and  had  to  resort  to  the 
kerosene.  On  immersing  my  finger  in 
the  liquid,  so  that  the  burned  portion 
was  submerged,  I  found  the  pain 
quickly  disappeared.  Not  a  sign  of  a 
blister  arose,  and  the  burn  healed  much 
more  quickly  than  those  treated  in  the 
other  way  had  done.  Now  we  use 
kerosene  exclusively  for  this  purpose. 

^  c.  F.  s. 

*     ^     * 

IN  these  days  of  high  prices,  w^hen 
home-makers  are  striving  to  feed 
their  families  well,  at  as  low  cost  as 
possible,  it  is  often  the  saving  of  little 
things  that  keeps  down  the  provision 
bill.  One  should  know  how  to  combine 
left  overs  so  they  may  realize  the  best 
results  both  in  the  amount  of  money 
saved  and  the  amount  of  nourishment 
given.  Save  the  liquor  in  which  a  ham 
has  been  cooked.  The  fat  from  the 
top  may  be  used  for  sauteing  x^otatoes 
or  pressed  sliced  cereals,  or  with 
scrambled  eggs,  and  lends  a  delicious 
flavor  when  so  used.  The  cooled 
liquor  formes  a  "jelly"  rich  in  ex- 
tractives. There  are  frequently  pieces 
of  bread  left  that  are  in  good  condition. 
These  pieces  of  bread,  also  left-over 
buttered  toast,  may  be  used  to  thicken 
pea  soup;  and  the  bone  from  the  ham, 
cracked  so  that  the  marrow  may  slip 
out,  and  also  the  "jelly"  from  the  cold 
ham  liquor  may  be  used  to  flavor  the 
soup.  If  the  ham  is  very  salt,  care  must 
be  taken  not  to  add  too  much  "jelly." 
It  is  best  to  add  the  "jelly"  about  one- 
half  an  hour  before  the  soup  is  done. 

Some  exquisite  centerpieces  from 
outdoor  flowers  are  made  of  marsh 
marigolds  and  ferns,  or  buttercups  and 
ferns,  in  cut  glass  or  carved  Parian 
marble;  of  violets,  purple  and  white, 
in  a  silver  bowl,  and  apple  blossoms,  in 
polished  copper. 

Following  is  a  dessert  recipe  much 
enjoyed  in  my  own  family: 


106 


TJIE    BOSTON   COOKING  SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Rhul 


)arh 


Sponge 


Clean  ami  cut  in  one-half  inch 
pieces  one  pound  of  rose  rhubarb. 
Do  not  remove  the  skin.  Stew  until 
quite  tender  in  one-fourth  a  cup  of 
boiling  water,  just  enough  to  start 
the  steam.  vSoftcn  one  ounce  of  gran- 
ulated gelatine  in  one-third  a  cup  of 
cold  water.  Strain  the  cooked  rhu- 
barb, pressing  out  all  the  juice,  and 
add  enough  boiling  water,  if  necessary, 
to  make  three  cups.  Mix  one  and 
three-fourths  cups  of  sugar  and  one- 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger. 
Stir  in  the  rhubarb  juice,  and  add  to 
the  gelatine,  stirring  until  the  gelatine 
and  sugar  are  dissolved.  Add  the 
grated  rind  and  strained  juice  of  one 
lemon  and  set  the  mixture  to  chill. 
When  it  begins  to  thicken,  add  the 
stiff-beaten  whites  of  three  eggs  and 
beat  till  stiff.  Mold.  Serve  with 
beaten  and  sweetened  cream.  Cut 
nuts  or  macaroon  crumbs  may  be 
passed  with  this  dessert.  m.  t.  r. 

*     *     * 
Tempting  a  Delicate  Child  to  Eat 

EVERY  mother  knows  how  hard  it 
is  to  get  children  to  eat  at  times, 
especially  when  they  first  begin  to 
take  solid  foods,  or  when  they  are 
convalescent,  while  there  are  some 
children  who  seem  to  have  a  natural 
and  persistent  aversion  toward  what- 
ever is  nourishing  and  particularly 
good  for  them.  Mothers  are  sometimes 
at  their  wits'  end  to  know  what  to 
prepare,  and  almost  sick  with  dis- 
couragement when  wholesome,  neces- 
sary foods  are  persistently  refused. 

Sometimes-  a  little  ingenuity  and  an 
appeal  to  the  child's  imagination  or 
eye  will  induce  him  to  eat  a  good- 
sized  meal  when,  at  first,  he  rejected 
everything. 

There  are  many  simple  ways  of 
doing  this,  and  the  mother  will  find 
any  number  of  her  own  by  experi- 
menting. 


It  is  an  old  custom  to  cut  a  slice  of 
bread  into  slips,  naming  them  for 
members  of  the  family  or  friends,  but 
it  is  a  procedure  which  seems  to  fas- 
cinate most  little  ones  and  make  the 
bread  more  palatable.  They  get  so 
interested  in  the  various  characters, 
represented  by  the  slips  of  bread,  that 
it  disappears  before  they  realize  it. 

Slices  of  bread  and  butter  can  be 
cut  into  various  shapes,  such  as 
diamonds,  squares,  circles,  etc.,  also 
to  represent  animals,  dogs,  cats  and 
horses.  The  shapes  may  be  crude  and 
mystifying  to  behold,  but  children  are 
not  critical,  and  generally  accept  these 
representations  with  approval  and 
credulity. 

Often  quite  a  good-sized  meal  can  be 
coaxed  down  by  putting  it  into  the 
doll's  dishes,  filling  the  tiny  cups  with 
milk  and  putting  little  squares  of  bread 
on  the  small  plates.  One  child  was 
known  to  eat  a  good-sized  meal  in  this 
way  when  he  absolutely  refused  the 
food  in  other  form. 

Another  way  is  to  provide  a  pretty 
china  plate  with  a  picture  on  it,  and 
tell  the  child  to  eat  the  contents  so 
that  he  will  see  the  picture. 

Sometimes  an  interesting  story  c;an 
be  told  —  with  the  proviso  that  the 
child  "eat  his  dinner"  or  the  mother 
will  not  tell  the  story.  He  will  get  in- 
terested in  the  story  and  forget  how 
much  he  is  eating  until  it  is  all  gone. 

One  little  boy  persistently  refused 
rice,  which  the  physician  had  ordered 
for  him  and  his  mother  had  tried  in 
every  way  to  make  him  eat.  One  day 
she  conceived  the  idea  of  forming  the 
rice  into  a  small  mound  like  an  Eskimo 
hut,  smoothing  it  around  to  make  it 
an  exact  reproduction.  On  the  top 
she  placed  a  small  square  of  butter, 
which  she  called  the  chimney.  It 
happened  that  the  little  boy  had  beei-i 
much  interested  in  pictures  of  Eskimo 
children  and  their  homes,  and  it  ajv 
pealed  to  his  imagination  at  once. 
The  mother  then  buttered  a   slice  of 


HOME   IDEAS   AND    ECONOMIES 


107 


bread  and  cut  it  into  strips  —  some 
large  and  some  small  —  which  she 
called  the  family  who  lived  in  the 
hut  —  father,  mother,  girls,  boys  and 
baby.  For  this  she  had  the  satisfac- 
tion of  seeing  the  little  fellow  eat  two 
good  slices  of  bread  and  the  whole 
saucer  of  rice  —  a  thing  he  had  never 
done  before  —  and  with  enjoyment. 

These  are  but  a  few  devices.  Any 
mother  can  supplement  them  with 
successful  ones  of  her  own,  and  she  will 
find  that  by  the  use  of  a  little  imagina- 
tion and  ingenuity  a  child  can  be 
tempted  to  eat  almost  any  kind  of 
desirable  and  necessary  food,  and 
enjoy  it.  a.  g.  m. 


IN  order  to  preserve  weathered  oak 
furniture  and  keep  it  fresh,  rub  it 
with  floor  wax,  Johnston's  or  some 
other  wax  for  hard  floors.  Do  this 
once  or  twice  a  year. 

Instead  of  throwing  away  the  flour 
left  after  rolling  meat  for  frying, 
save  it  and  use  again  for  similar 
purpose. 

Cut  a  groove  around  the  handle  of 
the  broom  about  three  inches  from  the 
end.  Make  a  cap  with  a  draw  string 
of  some  dark  soft  material  and  fasten 
this  over  the  end  of  the  broom.  Then 
when  the  end  of  the  broom  rests  against 
the  wall  there  will  be  no  marred  places 
on  the  walls.  This  idea  is  especially 
good  where  one  has  white  walls. 

J.  R.  w. 


G 


Menu  for  Church  Supper 

IVEN  in  May,  but  suitable  for  other 
months  — -  about  200  covers. 


Cold  Tongue 

Jelly 

Creamed  Potatoes 

Coffee 

Lobster  Salad 

Pineapple  Ice 

Rolls 

Cake 

Cost  of  materials: 


8  cans  tongue  (a,  $0.02^    •    •     •  So. UU 

100  lbs.  lobster  @  .10     ....  16.00 

IK  doz.  lettuce  («:  .90    ....  1.35 

Salad  Dressing: 

2  cans  oil $1.80 

2  qts.  milk lO 

Box  mustard     . 30 

1  qt.  vinegar 07 

2  doz.  eggs 04      2.97 

}^  bushel  potatoes 

400  rolls ;i.34 

4  lbs.  coffee l.o2 

2  qts  cream 1.20 

1  can  milk (U) 

6  eggs IC)      3.48 

20  glasses  jelly  donated. 

Pineapple  Ice,  4j4  g^ih: 

12  cans  pineapple 2.40 

6  lemons 10 

Sugar 6')  ? 

Freezing 2..")0 

Dipping 1.00      6.65 

Ser\'ed  only  150 
1  box  domino  sugar $0.48 

1  can  milk  for  potatoes 60 

2  lbs.  flour 10 

1  lb.  crackers  (scant) 13 

Parsley 10 

5  lbs.  print  butter 2.10 

l>^lbs.  tub  butter 52 

Ice 15 

Help 7.00 

22  loaves  cake  (2  left),  donated. 

Laundry 3.00 

Express 25 

Soap,  etc 20 

14.63 

$53.42 


There  is  nothing  that  equals  the 
boiled  icing,  and  by  boiling  the  sugar 
and  water  without  stirring  until  it 
spins  threads  when  run  off  a  spoon 
or  fork,  then  turning  this  syrup 
on  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  which 
have  been  whipped  dry,  then  beaten 
until  cold,  one  will  have  a  delicious 
covering. 


Recipe  for  Pineapple  Ice 


1 2  cans  of  grated  pine 
apple 
6  quarts  of  water 


6  quarts  of  sugar 
6  lemons 


Boil  the  water  and  sugar  fifteen 
minutes,  add  the  pineapple,  let  boil 
five  minutes;  when  cold  strain,  add 
lemon  juice  and  freeze  as  usual. 

B.  N.  w. 


Goin'  to  School 

By  Laura  R.  Talbot 


A 


T  a  progressive  porch  party  the 
young  women  sharpened  their 
wits  with  the  following: 

I 

Alphabet 

"If  an   alphabetical   servility  must   still   be 

urged."  — Milton. 

1.  A  river  in  Scotland. 

2.  A  printer's  measure. 

3.  Owned  by  the  Chinaman. 

Answers 

1.  D    (Dee). 

2.  M    (em). 

3.  Q    (queue). 

IT 
Geography 
"In  despite  o'  geography." 

—Bittler. 
Find  the  Islands 

1.  Eat  a when  you  are  hungry. 

2.  The  cat  caught  my . 

3.  Jack  had  a pony  given  him. 

A  nswers 

1.  Sandwich. 

2.  Canary. 

3.  Shetland. 

Ill 

Grammar 

"Who  climbs  the  grammar  tree    distinctly 

knows 

Where  noun  and  verb  and  participle  grows." 

— Dry  den. 

1.  What  the  convicted  prisoner  receives. 

2.  What  does  the  cat  have? 

3.  Four-sevenths  of  a  flower  is  what  part 
of  speech  ? 

Answers 
X.    Sentence. 

2.  Clause    (claws). 

3.  Verb-ena. 

IV 

Physiology 

"For  of  the  soule  the  bodie  forme  doth  take; 

For  soule  is  forme,  and  doth  the  bodie  make." 

— Spenser. 

1.  What  humorist  is  a  vital  organ? 

2.  What  is  sometimes  found  in  a  closet? 

3.  What  did  Adam  lose  ? 

Answers 

1.  Heart    (Harte). 

2.  Skeleton. 

3.  Rib. 

The  "scholars"  were  now  dismissed 
for  fifteen  minutes'  recess,  while  ED- 
UCATOR CRACKERS  were  served. 
An  old-fashioned  hand  bell  called  them 
to  order. 


V 

Arithmetic 
"This  endless  addition  of  numbers." 

— Locke. 

1.  Think  of  a  number, 
Double  it, 

Add  ten, 

Divide  by  two, 

Add  five. 

Multiply  by  four, 

Subtract  forty, 

Divide  by  number  first  thought  of, 

Add  nineteen. 

And  what  do  you  have? 

2.  Not  round  and  part  of  a  plant. 

3.  Subtract  nine  from  six. 

Answers 

1.  Twenty-three. 

2.  Square  root. 

3.  S       SIX 

IX 


VI 

History 
"For  aught  that  I  could  ever  read. 
Could  ever  hear  by  tale  or  history." 

—Shakespeare. 

1.  What  fruit  do  we  always  find  in  history? 

2.  What  fowls  are  associated  with  the 
Pilgrnn  Fathers? 

3.  What  happened  to  America  in  1492? 

Answers 

1.  Dates. 

2.  Plymouth  Rocks. 

3.  Discovered. 

VII 

Current  Events 
"For  'tis  a  chronicle  of  day  by  day;" 

— Shakespeare. 

1.  What  large  gun  is  often  heard  in  Wash- 
ington? 

2.  What  kitchen  divinity  has  been  de- 
clared a  fraud? 

3.  What  European  ruler  was  interested 
in  "The  Congo"? 

A  nswers 

1.  Cannon    (Joseph  G.). 

2.  Cook    (Dr.  Frederick.) 

3.  King  Leopold. 

Refreshments  were  next  served  in 
school  lunch  boxes.  Candy,  in  boxes 
representing  books,  was  given  as  prizes. 


108 


THIS  department  is  for  the  benefit  and  free  use  of  our  subscribers.  Questions  relating 
to  recipes,  and  those  pertaining  to  culinary  science  and  domestic  economics  in 
general,  will  be  cheerfully  answered  by  the  editor.  Communications  for  this  department 
must  reach  us  before  the  first  of  the  month  preceding  that  in  which  the  answers  are 
expected  to  appear.  In  letters  requesting  answers  by  mail,  please  enclose  addressed  and 
stamped  envelope.  For  menus  remit  SI. 00.  Address  queries  to  Janet  M.  Hill,  editor 
Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine,  372  Boylston  Steet,  Boston,  Mass. 


In   answer  to   inquiry    1590   I   send 
my  recipe  which  I  have  used  for  years. 

Blitz  Kuchen 


Blitz  Kuchen 


7   round   tablespoon- 

fuls  butter 
7    heaping    teaspoon- 

fuls  sugar 
A     heaping     pint     of 

flour 
Pinch       of       baking 

powder 
Pinch  of  salt 


4  eggs 

Grated  rind  of  1 
lemon 

\  pound  chopped  al- 
monds 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

Ground  cinnamon  to 
taste 


Butter  and  sugar  are  stirred  to  a 
cream.  Add  eggs  without  beating 
same,  lemon  and  salt;  stir  well,  then 
add  flour  mixed  with  baking  powder; 
mix  well  and  spread  very  thin  on 
buttered  tins.  Sprinkle  before  baking 
with  the  almonds  and  two  tablespoon- 
fuls sugar  mixed  with  the  cinnamon. 
Bake  in  moderately  hot  oven  to  a 
medium  brown.  Cut  in  diamond  shapes 
immediatel}^  on  taking  from  the  oven 
and  while  on  tins.  Remove  quickly 
from  tins. 

Mrs.  Wm.  Winter. 

Your  correspondent,  who  presents 
Query  No.  1590,  in  the  April  magazine, 
has  the  German  incorrect  in  her  ques- 
tion. The  recipe  called  for  is  undoubt- 
edly BHtz  Kuchen  or  Quick  Cotfee 
Cake.  I  enclose  my  recipe,  which  makes 
a  delicious  cake. 


^  a  cup  of  butter 

1  cup  of  sugar 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 

ing-powder 
U  cups  of  flour 


h  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt 
i  cup  of  milk 
2  eggs 

4     tablespoonfuls     of 
crushed  nuts 


Sift  sugar,  baking  powder,  flour 
and  salt  into  bowl.  Add  butter,  and 
work  into  dry  ingredients  as  in  mak- 
ing pie  crust.  Beat  eggs  and  add  with 
milk.  Add  enough  more  flour  to  make 
a  rather  stifT  batter.  Spread  about 
one-half  inch  deep  in  buttered  pans. 
Sprinkle  top  with  granulated  sugar 
and  nuts.  Bake  about  one-half  hour 
in  moderate  oven. 

Anne  C.  Rankin, 
Supt.  Dom.  Science  Wausau  Pub.  Schools. 


Query  1623. — "Recipe  for  a  very  rich 
Chocolate  Ice  Cream.  A  cream  eaten  lately, 
which  we  wish  to  duplicate,  was  almost  as 
dark  in  color  and  as  rich  as  a  chocolate 
sauce  or  chocolate  frosting." 

Rich,    Dark-Colored    Chocolate   Ice 
Cream 

Melt  six  ounces  of  chocolate  over 
hot  water  (in  a  double  boiler) ,  add  one 
cup  of  sugar  and  half  a  cup  of  boiling 
water  and  stir  and  cook  directly  over 
the  fire  until  smooth  and  boiling. 
Scald  three  cups  of  milk;  stir  into  the 
milk     two     tablespoonfuls     of     flour 


109 


no 


THE    BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


smoothed  w-ith  milk  to  pour;  stir  until 
the  milk  thickens,  then  add  the  choco- 
late mixture;  cover  and  let  cook 
fifteen  minutes.  Beat  the  yolks  of 
three  or  four  eggs;  add  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  one-fourth  a  cup 
of  sugar;  beat  again  and  stir  into  the 
hot  mixture;  stir  until  the  egg  is 
cooked  a  little;  add  one  cup  of  rich 
cream  and  strain  into  the  can  of  the 
freezer.  When  cold  add  one  table- 
spoonful  and  a  half  of  vanilla  extract 
and  freeze  as  usual. 


OLtRY  i624. — •■  Please  publish  a  Time 
Table  for  cooking  different  vegetables,  and 
for  cooking  meats,  both  well  and  rare  done. 
Under  meats,  include  fowl,  game  and  fish, 
well  done. 

Time  Table  for  Cooking  Vegetables 

Asparagus 20  to  25  minutes 

Beans,  String  or  Shell   ....     1  to  3  hours 

Beets,  new 1  to  2  hours 

Beets,  old 4  to  6  hours 

Beet  Greens 1  hour  or  longer 

Brussels  Sprouts    .    .    .    .     15  to  20  minutes 

Cabbage 30  to  80  minutes 

Carrots 1  hoiir  or  longer 

Cauliflower 20  to  30  minutes 

Celery 2  hours  or  longer 

Com     .    ,      5  to  15  minutes  (actual  boiling) 

Macaroni 20  to  60  minutes 

Onions 45  minutes  to  2  hotirs 

Oyster  Plant 45  to  60  minutes 

Parsnips  ...  .    30  to  45  minutes 

Peas     .....  .  about  20  minutes 

Potatoes,  white  .    20  to  30  minutes 

Potatoes,  swee:  .    15  to  25  minutes 

Rice .    20  to  30  minutes 

Squash     .    .  .    20  to  30  minutes 

Spinach 15  to  20  minutes 

Tomatoes,  stewed       .    .    .    15  to  20  minutes 

Turnips 30  to  45  minutes 

Coffee 3  to  5  minutes 

Time  Table  for   Baking  Meat   and 
Fish 

Beef,  ribs  or  loin,  rare,  per  pound. 

S  to  10  minutes 
Beef,  ribs  or  loin,  well  done,  per  poimd, 

12  to  16  minutes 
Beef,  ribs,  rolled,  rare  .  .  12  to  15  minutes 
Beef,  ribs,  rolled,  well  done,  15  to  IS  minutes 
Beef,  fillet,  rare,  20  to  30  minutes  (hot  oven) 

Beef,  lillet,  well  done 1  hour 

Mutton,  leg,  rare,  |>er  pound   .       10  minutes 
Mutton,  leg,  well  done,  per  pound, 

14  minutes 
Mutton,  forequarter,  stuffed,  per  pound, 

15  to  25  minutes 


Lamb,  well  done,  per  pound,  1 5  to  20  minutes 
Veal,  well  done,  per  pound,  18  to  22  minutes 
Pork,  well  done,  per  pound  .  .  20  minutes 
Venison,  rare,  per  |X)und  .  .  .10  minutes 
Chicken,  per  pound   .     .    .     15  to  20  minutes 

Turkey,  8  to  10  pounds 3  hours 

Goose,  8  to  10  pounds  .    .      2  hours  or  mure 

Duck,  domestic      1  hour  or  more 

Duck,  wild,  15  to  30  minutes  (very  hot  oven) 

Grouse about  30  minutes 

Small  Birds 15  to  20  minutes 

Pigeons,  potted  or  en  casserole .    3  to  6  hours 

Ham 4  to  6  hours 

Fish,  whole  ....  45  minutes  or  longer 
Small  Fish  and  Fillets  .  .  about  20  minutes 
Baked  Beans  with  Pork    .    .    .    6  to  8  hours 


Time  Table  for  Broi 
Fish 

Steak,  1  inch  thick  .  . 
Steak,  1^  inches  thick 
Lamb  or  Mutton  Chops 
Spring  Chicken  .    . 

Squabs     

Shad,  Bluefish,  etc 
Slices  of  Fish  .  . 
Small  Fish  .... 


[ing  Meat  and 


4  to  10  minutes 
8  to  15  minutes 
6  to  10  minutes 

20  to  30  minutes 
10  to  12  minutes 
15  to  30  minutes 
12  to  15  minutes 

5  to  12  minutes 


Boiling  Meat  and  Fish 

Fresh  Beef 4  to  6  hours 

Cxjmed  Beef,  rib  or  flank  .  .  4  to  7  hours 
Corned  Beef,  fancy  brisket  .    .    5  to  8  hours 

Corned  Tongue 3  to  4  hours 

Leg  or  Shoulder  of  Mutton  .  3>^  to  5  hours 
Leg  or  Shoulder  of  Lamb  .  .  2  to  3  hours 
Turkey,  per  pound  .  .  .  15  to  18  minutes 
Fowl,  4  to  5  pounds  .  .  .  .-  2  to  4  hours 
Chicken,  3  pounds  1  to  ll<  hours 

Ham .    4  to  6  hours 

Lobster i! 5  to  30  minutes 

Codfish  and  Haddock,  per  pound,  6  minutes 
Halibut,  whole  or  thick  piece,  per  poimd, 

15  minutes 
Salmon,  whole  or  thick  piece,  10  to  15  minutes 
Clams  and  Ovsters     ...         3  to  5  minutes 


Query  1625. — "Recipe  for  Tomat<;»  Aspic 
for  salads  and  a  well -seasoned  Cream  of 
(x)m  Soup.  " 

Tomato  (Aspic  ?)  Jelly 

Let  two  cups  of  canned  tomato,  a 


5pn< 


of 


summer    savor3%     spng    ot 


parsley,  a  slice  of  onion,  half  a  stalk  of 
celery,  and  a  piece  of  green  or  red 
pepper  pod  simmer  together  fifteen  or 
twent}"  minutes,  then  strain  the  whole 
through  a  fine  sieve;  add  one-fourth  a 
two-ounce  package  of  gelatine,  softened 
in  one-fourth  a  cup  of  cold  water,  and 
salt  as  needed,  and  tum  into  molds  to 
harden. 


QUERIES   AND   ANSWERS 


111 


Tomato  Jell) ,  Macedoine  Style,  for 
Salad 

1^    cups    of    canned  I  ^  a  cup  of  cold  water 
tomato  '  J    a    cup    of    cooked 

1  slice  of  onion  string  beans 

I  a  clove  of  garlic  3  olives 

I  a  pepper  pod  1    teaspoonful   of   ca- 

-^     a    teaspoonful     of '  pers 

salt  1  truffle 

\  a  "soup  bag"  j  Cooked    yolks    of    2 

I  a  package  of  gela-  eggs 

tine 


Let  the  first  six  ingredients  simmer, 
together,  about  fifteen  minutes,  then 
add  the  gelatine  that  has  been  softened 
in  the  cold  water;  stir  over  ice  water 
until  the  mixture  begins  to  thicken, 
then  add  the  beans  and  olives,  cut  in 
fine  bits,  the  capers,  the  truffle  or  its 
equivalent  in  trimmings,  chopped  fine, 
the  yolks  sifted,  or  the  equivalent  of 
the  yolks  in  chopped  chicken  tongue 
or  ham.  Mix  thoroughly  and  turn 
into  molds.  Serve  with  lettuce  and 
mayonnaise  dressing. 

Tomato  Aspic 

To  a  pint  of  rich  and  highly-flavored 
beef,  chicken  or  veal  broth  add  a  cup 
of  cooked  tomatoes,  with  salt  and 
pepper  as  needed,  also  one-third  a 
package  of  gelatine  softened  in  one- 
third  a  cup  of  cold  water  and  the 
crushed  shells  and  slightly  beaten 
whites  of  two  eggs;  stir  constantly 
over  the  fire  till  boiling;  let  boil  three 
minutes;  then  draw  to  a  cooler  place 
to  settle;  skim  and  strain  through  a 
napkin  wrung  out  of  boiling  water; 
turn  into  molds  and  let  chill. 

Good  Flavored  Cream  of  Corn  Soup 

A  good  flavored  corn  soup  may  be 
made  of  two  parts  milk  flavored  with 
a  little  onion  and  parsley,  thickened 
with  flour  and  one  part  corn  puree; 
but  a  richer  flavored  soup  results 
when  chicken  or  veal  broth  is  com- 
bined with  the  milk  and  a  little  cream, 
half  to  a  whole  cup  to  two  quarts  of 
soup  is  used. 


Recipe  for  Cream  of  Corn  Soup 

Score  the  kernels  in  each  row  with 
a  sharp  knife  and  with  the  back  of 
the  knife  press  out  all  of  the  pulp. 
Melt  three  (level)  tablespoon fuls  of 
butter,  in  it  cook  two  slices  of  onion 
and  two  branches  of  parsley  until  the 
onion  is  softened  and  yellowed;  add 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  a  dash  of 
black  pepper  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt;  stir  and  cook  until  frothy,  then 
add  three  cups  of  milk  and  stir  until 
boiling;  add  the  corn  pulp  and  let  boil 
five  minutes.  Add  more  seasoning  .if 
needed.  Vary  by  the  use  of  broth  or 
cream. 


Query  1626. — "Recipe  for  a  very  ai)pe- 
tizing  dish  consisting  of  a  poached  egg  set 
above  a  round  of  toast  and  another  of  ham 
with  a  yellow  sauce  over  the  whole.  Also 
a  recipe  for  Sponge  Cake  for  Jelly  Roll. 
One  jriven  in  the  masrazine  was  a  failure.": 


Eggs  Benedict 

Split  and  toast  the  required  number 
of  English  muffins.  Have  ready 
poached  eggs  and  some  very  thin 
rounds  of  broiled  ham,  one  of  each  for 
each  half  muffin.  Dip  the  edges,  of 
the  toasted  muffins  in  boiling,  salted 
water,  and  spread  lightly  with  butter; 
set  a  slice  of  hot  ham  above  the  toast 
and  the  poached  egg  above  the  ham 
and  pour  Hollandaise  sauce  over  the 
whole. 

Hollandaise  Sauce 

For  six  eggs,  beat  half  a  cup  of 
butter  to  a  cream,  then  beat  in,  one 
at  a  time,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  with 
a  dash  of  salt  and  of  pepper;  add  half 
a  cup  of  boiling  water  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice  and  cook  over 
hot  water,  stirring  constantly  until  the 
mixture  thickens. 

Sponge  Cake  for  Jelly  Roll 
We  should  be  glad  to  know  which 
recipe    for   sponge    cake    pubHshed   in 
this  maoazine  did  not  turn  out  success^ 


112 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


fully.  We  have  given  recipes  for  many 
grades  of  sponge  cake,  but  all  have 
been  used  by  us  repeatedly  with  good 
results.  Any  recipe  for  good  sponge 
cake  may  be  used  for  a  jelly  roll,  but 
some  formulas  will  give  a  dry  and 
others  a  moist  cake.  The  first  of  the 
following  recipes  is  for  a  small,  in- 
expensive cake. 

Recipes  for  Sponge   Cake   for   Jelly 
Roll 


I 


2  eggs 

1  cup  of  sugar 

1  cup  of  flour 


cup  of  flour 
a    teaspoonful    of 
salt 


2^  level  teaspoonfuls 
of  baking  powder 

1  teaspoonful  of  va- 
nilla extract 

J  a  cup  of  hot  milk 


Beat  the  eggs  without  separating 
the  whites  and  yolks;  beat  in  the 
sugar,  fold  in  the  flour,  salt  and  baking 
powder,  sifted  together,  then  beat  in 
the  milk.  Bake  in  a  shallow  pan. 
Turn  upon  a  cloth,  trim  off  the  edges, 
spread  with  jelly  and  roll.  The  cake 
must  be  rolled  while  hot. 


II 


5  eggs 

1  cup  of  sugar 
1  cup  of  flour 
Grated     rind     of 
lemon 


2  tablespoonfuls  of 
lemon     juice     or 

1  rounding  teaspoon- 
ful of  baking 
powder 


Beat  the  whites  and  yolks  separately, 
and  gradually  beat  the  sugar  into  the 
yolks;  add  the  lemon  juice  and  rind 
and  fold  in  the  whites  and  flour.  By 
this  recipe  the  cake  is  good  only  when 
the  ingredients  are  put  together 
properly.  Beating  and  folding  are 
the  motions  needed.  One  not  tmder- 
standing  how  to  mix  a  true  sponge 
cake  should  omit  the  lemon  juice  and 
use  the  baking  powder.  The  recipe 
for  Swedish  sponge  cake,  frequently 
given  in  these  pages,  makes  a  good  cake 
for  a  jelly  roll. 


,    Query  1627. — "  Recipe  for  Currants,  Bar- 
le-duc. " 


Bar-le-Duc  Currants 

The  preserve  known  by  the  above 
caption  can  be  made  at  home,  but,  as 
the  process  of  removing  the  seeds  from 
the  currants  is  tedious,  most  people 
prefer  buying  to  making  this  preserve. 
We  have  had  good  success  with  the 
following  recipe:  Take  selected  cur- 
rants of  large  size,  one  by  one,  and  with 
tiny  embroidery  scissors  carefully  cut 
the  skin  on  one  side,  making  a  slit  one- 
fourth  an  inch  or  less  in  length.  Through 
this  with  a  sharp  needle  remove  the 
seeds,  one  at  a  time,  to  preserve  the 
shape  of  the  currant.  Take  the  weight 
of  the  currants  in  strained  hone}',  and 
when  hot  add  the  currants.  Let  sim- 
mer two  or  three  minutes,  then  seal  as 
jelly.  If  the  juice  of  the  currants 
liquefy  the  honey  too  much,  carefully 
skim  out  the  currants  and  reduce  the 
syrup  at  a  gentle  simmer  to  the  desired 
consistency,  then  replace  the  currants 
and  store  as  above. 

The  above  recipe  gives  a  confection 
equal  to  that  put  up  in  France.  The 
following  recipe,  which  entails  less  work, 
gives  a  nice  preserve. 

Currants,  Bar-le-Duc 

Get  the  largest  size  currants,  red  or 
white,  and  stem  them  without  break- 
ing. To  each  pound  allow  three  pounds 
of  sugar.  Take  some  ordinary  currants 
and  bruise  them  while  wann  until  you 
have  a  pint  of  juice.  Put  half  a  cup 
of  this  into  a  porcelain  kettle  and  add 
three  pounds  of  sugar.  Bring  slowly 
to  a  boil  and  skim  very  carefully..  After 
boiling  five  minutes  drop  in  very  care- 
fully one  pound  of  the  large  currants 
and  let  simmer  four  minutes.  Take 
them  out  without  breaking  them,  and 
boil  the  syrup  down  five  minutes,  or 
longer  if  not  very  thick;  as  the  currants 
are  sometimes  less  juicy  than  at  others, 
a  few  minutes  more  will  be  needed  at 
one  time  than  another.  When  thick, 
skim  well  and  strain  through  a  hot 
cloth   over   the   fruit.      Put   into   little 


Menus  for  October  Banquets 


Cocktail  of  Broiled  Live  Lobster 
Dressed  Cucumber  Sandwiches 

Consomme  a  la  Royal 

Fish  Croquettes,  Sauce  Tartare 

Grenadins  of  Beef  Tenderloin,  Mushroom  Sauce 

French  Fried  Potato  Balls 

String  Beans 

Truffled  Partridge  Breasts,  Supreme 

Perigueux  Sauce 

Tomato  Cream  Glace 

Fruit  Cup 

Assorted  Cakes 

Coffee 

II 

Tiny  Sardine  Eclairs 

Consomme  with  Egg  Balls 

Oysters  Scalloped  in  Shells 

Philadelphia  Relish  in  Lemon  Cups 

Beaten  Biscuit 

Sweetbread-and-Chicken  Patties  (Brown  Sauce) 

Boned  Loin  of  Lamb,  Roasted,  Mint  Sauce 

Mashed  Potatoes,  Vienna  Fashion 

Scalloped  Egg  Plant 

Pineapple  Fritters,  Claret  Sauce 

Gnocchi  a  la  Romaine 

Romaine  or  Celery  Salad 

Deviled  Crusts 

Nesselrode  Parfait 

Lady  Fingers 

Coffee 


The 
Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


Vol.  XV 


October, 1910 


No.  3 


Split  Boulders     Very  Ple.\sing 


The  Use  of  Stone  in  Fireplaces 


By  Mary  H.  Northend 


FOR  the  porch,  the  studio,  the  den 
or  the  bungalow  the  stone  fire- 
place, with  its  fire -frame  lined 
with  iron  or  with  fire  brick,  is  the  type 
best   suited.     Its   sturdv,   rustic   finish 


harmonizes  admirably  with  the  infor- 
mal environment  that  generally  charac- 
terizes these  apartments,  and  its  pres- 
ence creates  an  atmosphere  of  character 
and  stability  that  no  other  type  of  fire- 


115 


116 


THE    BOSTON    COOKIXG-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


place,    however    beautiful,    could    aid 
to  produce. 

As  in  other  architectural  features, 
however,  great  restraint  must  be  ex- 
ercised in  the  use  of  the  stone  fireplace. 
In  the  first  place  it  must  be  carefully 
arranged.  Huddled  in  a  comer  of  a 
room,  it  loses  much  of  the  character 
which  is  its  chief  charm,  and  it  conveys 
the  impression  of  having  been  put  there 
for  the  reason  that  a  fireplace  was  de- 
sired, and  that  was  the  only  spot  avail- 
able for  its  location.  If  there  isn't 
plenty  of  room  for  the  fireplace,  omit 
it.  The  best  location  is  in  the  center 
of  the  end  wall.  Here,  in  full  view  of 
all  parts  of  the  room,  it  becomes  in 
reality  the  heart  of  the  apartment,  and 
its  mission  is  fulfilled.  Its  rugged 
picturesqueness  is  set  forth  in  all  its 
beauty,  and  it  breathes  an  atmosphere 
of  comfort  and  cheer  that  would  never 
be  possible  from  a  comer  location. 


Then.  too.  care  must  be  taken  in  ar- 
ranging the  stones.  The  term  "stone " 
is  here  broadly  applied  to  split  stone, 
fieldstone,  cobblestone  and  boulder. 
First  of  all,  the  type  of  stone  must  be 
selected.  Sometimes  a  combination 
of  two  or  more  kinds  is  used,  and  not 
infrequently  a  certain  type  is  combined 
with  brick.  The  eft'ect  of  stone,  at  all 
times,  is  massive,  and  even  when  used 
in  conjunction  with  brick  this  eft'ect  is 
but  slightly  lessened.  All  stones  vary 
in  fonn.  size  and  coloring.  This  last 
characteristic  is  fortunate,  since  va- 
riety of  tint  adds  much  to  the  value  of 
fireplace  material.  By  careful  selec- 
tion of  specimens  beautiful  results 
may  be  obtained,  having  a  wide  color 
range,  yet  entire  harmony. 

Since  a  stone  fireplace  is  massive,  it 
should  have  dignity  of  proportion. 
The  mantel  shelf  should  be  inconspic- 
uous, and  highh'  restrained  in  the  mat- 


COBBLESTOXES  CaREFULLY  SELECTED  AND  ARTISTICALLY  COMBINED,  INTERIOR  OF  BUNGALO\V 


THE  USE  OF  STOXE   IX  FIREPLACES 


ir 


LivixG-RooM  IX  Bungalow.     Why  Drape  this  Mantel: 


ter  of  bric-a-brac,  although  a  den  is 
allowed  more  license  in  this  respect 
than  other  apartments.  The  surround- 
ings, too,  should  be  harmonious,  if  the 
best  results  are  to  be  obtained.  Mis- 
sion furniture  and  fire-sets  of  bronze  or 
wrought  iron  are  in  the  height  of  good 
taste.  With  a  hearth  of  tile  or  brick, 
no  fender  is  necessary.  It  is  better  to 
dispense  with  one,  for  the  fender  is  an 
invention  of  too  recent  date  to  match 
the  stone  fireplace,  and  belongs  rather 
to  the  Colonial  period.  When  we  hark 
back  to  the  Stone  Age  the  plainest  pos- 
sible setting  will  be  found  to  be  the 
most  harmonious. 

Split  stone,  of  uniform  proportions, 
constitutes  a  dignified  fireplace.  When 
used  in  conjunction  with  a  tiled  hearth, 
the  result  is  most  pleasing.  When  em- 
ployed, however,  considerable  restraint 
must  be  exercised  in  the  entire  finish 
and  furnishings  of  the  room  in  which  it 
is  placed.  Plain  woodwork  and  wall 
hangings  of  unobtrusive  coloring  should 
be  chosen.  Brie  -a  -brae  on  the  stone 
mantel  should  be  sparingly  used,  and 
above    all   things   the    mantel     should 


never  be  hidden  by  a  shelf  drape.  It 
is  not  possible  to  spoil  good  lines,  but  it 
is  entirely  within  the  province  of  many 
a  house  owner  to  hide  them  very  suc- 
cessfully. 

Cobblestone  and  brick  fonn  a  pleas- 
ing combination,  especially  when  the 
brick  is  used  for  the  facings  and  hearth. 
It  is  possible  to  have  the  cobblestones 
of  a  nearly  uniform  texture  and  of 
dift'erent  colorings,  varying  in  tint 
from  the  cold,  bluish  grays  to  the  wann. 
red  purples.  In  laying  the  stones  a 
little  care  will  produce  symmetry,  thus 
tending  to  aft'ord  a  satisfying  sense  of 
solidity.  Decide  on  a  certain  color 
scheme,  use  specimens  of  the  same 
shape  and  size,  and  the  result  will  be  a 
most  eft'ective  fireplace,  far  more  sym- 
metrical in  outline  than  is  usual  in 
this  type.  Of  course  the  cobblestones 
should  be  of  rather  small  size. 

Cobblestones  of  various  sizes  ar- 
ranged without  any  studied  effect  may 
be  contrived  into  an  artistic  fireplace 
suitable  for  the  living-room  of  a  bun- 
galow, or  a  den.  One  such,  in  the  main 
room  of  a  summer  camp,  is  square  in 


118 


THE    BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


shape,  and  is  carried  quite  up  through 
the  chimney-breast,  with  a  simple 
wooden  shelf  to  serve  as  mantelpiece. 
Cosy,  built-in  seats  flank  it  on  either 
side,  and  the  result  is  a  fireplace  well 
suited  to  its  surroundings. 

A  certain  style  of  room  is  required  to 
suit  the  stone  fireplace,  which  befits 
the  primitive  simplicity  of  a  bungalow 
or  the  Bohemian  touch  found  in  den  or 
studio.  A  room  Colonial  in  character 
requires  a  brick  fireplace.  Stonework 
is  harmonious  only  in  a  room  that  has 
a  tone  of  Mission  severity,  and  a  finish 
of  woodwork  or  textile  that  simulates 
woodwork.  Therefore  the  Colonial 
room  shown  in  our  illustration,  is  in- 
congruous. The  room  in  itself  is  admi- 
rable, as  is  the  stone  fireplace;  but  they 
do  not  belong  together. 

With  care  an  effective  combining  of 
split  stone  and  brick  may  be  brought 


about.  The  uneven  finish  of  the  split 
stone  contrasted  with  the  smooth 
surface  of  the  brick  is  most  pleasing, 
and  this  combination  is  at  present 
much  employed  for  studios  and  dens. 
When  used  in  conjunction  with  a 
smooth  stone  hearth  and  a  rough  stone 
edge,  set  in  as  mantel  shelf,  the  effect 
is  strikingly  artistic. 

Fieldstone  and  wood  are  sometimes 
combined,  though  rarely  with  as  satis- 
fying results  as  two  kinds  of  stone. 
The  wood,  being  less  stable  in  appear- 
ance, seems  to  depend  upon  the  stone 
for  support,  and  the  stone,  in  conse- 
quence, loses  its  own  individuality  in 
serving  the  wood.  The  combination 
is  not  unpleasing;  in  fact,  in  some  few 
cases  it  is  artistic,  but  as  a  rule  this 
combination  had  best  be  avoided. 

Fieldstone  employed  alone  can  be 
contrived    into    a    most    effective    fire- 


A  Well-Planned  Fireplace.     The  Room  is  Colonial  and  not  in  H.\rmony 


THE  USE  OF  STOXE  IX  FIREPLACES 


119 


place,  as  is  shown  in  one  of 
our  illustrations.  Here  the 
proportions  are  pleasing,  the 
stone  is  of  fine  variety  in 
coloring,  and  it  is  well  put 
together.  Yet  it  is  doubtful 
if  the  owner  takes  full  com- 
fort in  this  fireplace,  for  from 
the  appearance  of  the  smok}' 
exterior  the  draft  must  be 
poor,  and  a  poor  draft  is  the 
one  unpardonable  offence  in 
a  fireplace.  A  smoking  fire- 
place, although  it  may  be 
handsomely  designed,  is  a 
never-ending  source  of  dis- 
comfort and  dissatisfaction. 

In  this  case  the  fireplace 
may  have  too  straight  a  flue, 
so  that  the  down  draft  af- 
fects the  fire.  A  slight  slant 
to  a  flue  is  better  than  a 
perfectly  vertical  course,  al- 
though a  flue  might  better 
not  slant  more  than  sixty 
degrees. 

Or  it  may  be  that  a  high 
bank,  topped  with  tall  trees, 
standing  near  the  house  and 
in  the  direction  from  which  the  pre- 
vailing winds  are  accustomed  to  blow,  is 
acting  as  a  wind-break,  and  forcing  the 
smoke  back  into  the  room.  In  this  case 
the  chimney  should  be  run  up  higher. 

Sometimes,  when  wood  is  burned, 
the  chimney  becomes  clogged  with 
soot,  unless  the  flue  is  Hned,  through- 
out the  whole  distance,  with  a  terra- 
cotta flue  lining,  to  which  nothing  will 
stick  on  account  of  its  smoothness. 

Sometimes  the  throat  of  the  chimney 
is  too  narrow,  but  more  frequently  it 
is  too  wide.  Many  architects  and  ma- 
sons seem  to  think  that  a  wide  throat 
insures  a  good  draft,  when  it  is  really 
no  help,  but  often  a  hindrance.  The 
narrowing  of  the  throat  tends  to  raise 
the  temperature  of  the  escaping  smoke 
and  gases,  which  hastens  their  upward 
movement,  according  to  the  well-known 
law  that  heated  air  rises. 


iHk 

M^^^^^HPti^^^^^^ 

i^ 

riREPLACE    OF    FlELDSTONE 


r-::oKY  LHIMxey 


The  proper  slope  of  the  sides,  and 
also  of  the  back,  has  much  to  do  with 
carrying  oil  the  smoke,  particularly 
when  a  new  Are  is  first  Hghted.  It  is 
quite  important  that  the  back  should 
not  be  drawn  forward  with  any  degree 
of  sharpness  until  it  is  very  near  the 
top,  or  an  occasional  puff  of  smoke  will 
find  its  way  into  the  room  on  this  ac- 
count. One  thing  is  certain,  and  that 
is  that  no  chimney  ever  smokes  be- 
cause it  is  uncovered.  A  properly  con- 
structed fireplace  and  flue  need  no  cap 
upon  the  chimney,  because  it  should 
draw  the  better  for  being  open  and  un- 
obstructed. 

A  distinctive  idea  of  recent  date  is 
the  fireplace  upon  the  veranda.  This 
novelty  probably  originated  in  the  in- 
troduction of  the  open  fire  into  the 
sun-parlor  or  enclosed  veranda  for 
winter  use.     When  the  2:1a ss  enclosure 


120 


THE    BOSTON    COOKIXG-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


was  removed,  upon  the  arrival  of  wami 
weather,  the  hreplace  was  still  in  evi- 
dence, and  was  called  into  requisition 
upon  chilly  evenings.  Our  illustration 
shows  one  of  these  porch  fireplaces 
worked  out  in  stone  to  match  the  porch 
parapet,  but  topped  with  brick,  in  order 
to  raise  it  to  a  height  sufficient  to  insure 
a  good  draft. 

When  introduced  without  proper 
understanding  of  its  environment,  the 
porch  tireplace  may  become  a  mere 
unrelated  addition  to  the  exterior  of  a 


dwelling.  In  order  to  acquire  a  perfect 
setting.it  should  be  built  of  stone  similar 
to  that  in  the  walls  of  the  house,  and 
should  fit  unobtrusively  into  the  lower 
story,  preferably  with  neither  wooden 
supports  nor  shelf.  A  fireplace  of  this 
type  gains  much  in  expression  if  built 
upon  a  roofless,  open  porch,  or  upon 
a  terrace  against  the  house,  with  a 
floor  that  is  tiled  or  cemented.  Be- 
coming thus  a  part  of  the  main  struc- 
ture, it  can  no  longer  be- regarded  as  a 
mere  afterthou2:ht. 


Octob 


er 


B\'  Ruth  Ravmond 


The  happy  birds  have  flown  away 
And  silent  is  each  passing  dav: 
The  skies  have  lost  their  melting  blue, 
And  all  the  verdant  hills  we  knew 
Have  turned  to  autumn's  listless  brown. 


While  tiny  balls  of  thistle-down 

Go  sailing  lightly  here  and  there 

Like  fairy  boats  upon  the  air; 

As  through  the  groves  the  breezes  sigh 

Earth  bids  the  summer  time,  good-bv. 


.    Though  the  Sea  Roar 

By  Helen  Forrest 


I  FOUND  Margaret  the  morning  I 
reached  Mentone;  to  be  accurate, 
it  was  just  about  four  hours  after 
I  came  into  the  tOTVTi  on  the  night  train 
from  Genoa.  As  I  left  the  hotel  I  had 
struck  into  the  Public  Gardens,  with 
its  flower  beds  that  look  Hke  colored 
rugs  thro\\Ti  down  on  the  grass,  and 
started  for  the  sea  wall  where  the 
waves  were  showing  unusually  high 
above  the  defences,  and  I  had  Hghted 
my  pipe  as  an  aid  to  thought.  I  had 
crossed  the  Atlantic,  and  had  come  to 
Mentone  to  find  Margaret,  coming 
against  her  express  command,  and, 
frankly  speaking,  I  hesitated  about 
searching  the  hotel  register  for  her 
name;  I  felt  puzzled  as  to  my  next 
move — how  should  I  find  her? 

I  turned  a  comer,  came  into  full 
view  of  the  bay,  stopped  short,  and 
knocked  my  pipe  against  the  diamond- 
shaped  bark  of  an  old  palm  tree.  My 
heart  lost  a  beat,  then  set  furiously  to 
work,  for  there  outlined  against  the 
unreal  blue  of  the  sky,  looking  out  on 
the  foaming  water,  stood  Margaret, 
slim  and  straight,  in  a  long  coat  that 
I  remembered,  a  dull  blue  veil  tied  over 
a  hat  that  she  must  have  bought  on  this 
side.  Her  face  was  turned  half  toward 
me,  and  one  tress  of  her  bronze-colored 
hair  had  blown  loose  from  hat  and  veil 
and  was  rufiied  by  the  fresh  breeze. 

I  closed  out  the  stock  of  violets 
offered  me  by  an  old  flower- woman, 
and  with  this  propitiatory  offering  in 
my  hands  I  crossed  a  square  of  flaring 
sun,  knocking  off  my  glasses  against  a 
projecting  branch  of  the  before-men- 
tioned palm  tree.  I  was  just  a  little 
dazed  at  the  way  Fate  had  played  into 
my  hands. 

It  was  more  luck  than  I  deserved;  I 
think  that  I  should  have  criticised  an- 
other man  who  had  left  business  and 


home  to  follow  a  girl  who  had  distinctly 
wished  to  be  left  in  peace;  but  there  is 
no  one  like  Margaret,  hence  I  argue 
that  no  other  man  had  my  excuse. 

As  I  stopped  beside  her  and  she  saw 
me  there  was  a  second  between  her 
shock  of  surprise  and  her  immediate 
getting  herself  in  hand,  when,  if  I  had 
not  learned  humility  in  knowing  ]\Iarga- 
ret,  I  should  have  said  that  I  was 
rather  more  than  welcome. 

"Bob!"  she  exclaimed,  "why.  Bob, 
where  did  you  come  from,  and  what  in 
the  world  brought  you  here,  of  all 
places!"  She  stopped  with  a  little 
gasp  of  pleasure  to  bury  her  face  in  the 
violets  I  had  put  into  her  hands. 

I  answered  her  questions  truthfully, 
and  in  order.  I  couldn't  tell  her  what 
I  had  told  the  few  who  knew  of  my 
hastih'  determined  departure,  that  it 
was  a  matter  of  business,  though 
Heaven  knows  that  the  business  was 
serious  enough:  "  I  came  in  on  the  Car- 
inania  yesterday,  out  from  Genoa  last 
evening;  I  came  here  to  find  you." 

"But  how  did  you  know  that  I  was 
here?" 

Again  I  answered  truthfully:  "Mary 
Bemis  told  me  a  couple  of  weeks  ago; 
she  said  you  wrote  her  from  here  about 
some  hospital  committee." 

Here  Margaret  gave  me  a  bit  of 
encouragement  with  her  eyes,  and  she 
spoke  stifily  —  she  does  not  like  Mary 
Bemis:  "Oh,  you  had  been  up  to  see 
her." 

And  moderating  my  pleasure  in  this 
turn  of  the  questions  I  answered  stol- 
idly, "No,  she  gave  me  a  lift  in  her 
Mercedes." 

Margaret's  fingers  on  her  right  hand 
were  working  busily  in  their  neat  Dent 
covering.  I  knew  her  little  ways — she 
was  doing  a  brief  mathematical  prob- 
lem, and  I  came  to  her  assistance,  glad 


121 


122 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


that  college  had  not  broken  her  of  this 
little  well-remembered  habit. 

"Yes,  that  was  fifteen  days  ago;  it 
took  me  two  days  to  get  things  in  order 
at  the  office,  twelve  days  to  cross  — 
that  Cunarder  did  not  hurry  herself. 
I  reached  Genoa  yesterday,  and  here 
I  am." 

"Oh,  Bob,"  she  spoke  rather  pathet- 
icalty,  "what  made  you?" 

I  didn't  answer,  I  was  trying  to  un- 
derstand the  expression  in  her  eyes  (she 
says  they  are  Alice-blue),  and  the  new 
violet  veil  matched  them  to  perfection. 
This  look  wasn't  the  one  with  which 
she  had  refused  me  at  the  end  of  the 
Junior  year  at  Wellesley ;  it  was  a  differ- 
ent expression  from  that  which  met 
me  across  her  tea  table  two  days  before 
she  sailed,  now  six  months  ago,  when 
she  had  answered  me  again.  She  had 
been  a  little  tearful  at  her  first  refusal; 
last  autumn  it  came  very  sweetly,  but 
with  the  cursed  independence  they 
learn  at  those  girls'  colleges:  "Bob,  I 
truly  believe  it  might  be  you  if  it  were 
to  be  any  one,  but  I  don't  want  to  be 
married,  I  don't  need  any  man."  I 
pushed  the  question  a  little  too  far 
across  that  flower-decked  table  where, 
if  I  remember  correctly,  no  tea  was 
drunk  that  day.  I  can  still  see  the 
amber-filled  cups  with  the  island  of 
lemon  slice,  for  in  answer  to  a  sugges- 
tion I  dared  to  make  she  told  me  point- 
blank  not  to  follow  her.  I  didn't  in- 
tend to  at  that  time,  but  I  really  could 
not  know  how  empty  the  town  would 
seem  without  her.  Margaret  hadn't 
even  written  me,  so  great  was  her  be- 
lief in  the  absence  cure. 

I  had  had  too  much  pride  to  inquire, 
so  the  Bemis  girl,  who,  to  my  mind,  is 
something  of  a  cat  in  a  well-bred  way, 
had  been  an  unintentional  providence. 
I  more  than  suspect  that  her  informa- 
tion as  to  Margaret's  stay  in  Mentone 
had  been  given  to  me  to  see  how  I 
would  take  it.  At  all  events,  I  had 
lost  no  time  in  acting  on  what  I  had 
heard. 


Now  I  am  not  what  is  termed  a  senti- 
mental man,  but  I 'confess  that  Marga- 
ret's sudden  nearness  to  me  after  those 
lonely  months,  the  perfume  of  violets 
in  her  hands, perhaps,  too,  the  sweetness 
of  the  sunshine,  and  the  glory  of  the 
spring  after  the  winter  I  had  left  be- 
hind, —  all  these  went  to  my  head. 

"Margaret"  I  asked,  "who  was  it 
who  first  proposed  to  mark  a  day 
with  a  white  stone?  I'd  like  to  put 
some  sort  of  thank  tablet  upon  that 
wall,  just  here  where  I  found  you  stand- 
ing in  the  sunshine." 

Margaret  knows  my  danger  signals, 
and  she  flushed  to  her  wavy,  bronze 
hair,  then  turned  on  me  her  blue  eyes, 
alight  with  mischief. 

"Look  behind  you,  Bob,  this  place 
is  already  marked!"  I  turned  and  read 
a  sign, — a  small  placard  fastened  upon 
the  sea  wall: 

''Promenades 

a  Anes 
Marie  Riccoli" 

Marie  herself,  clever  and  dark-eyed, 
knitted  in  the  sun,  while  on  the  road 
just  beyond  stood  a  capable  Italian 
girl  with  a  hat  like  an  inverted  straw 
plate,  marshaling  before  us  the  don- 
keys aforesaid,  gay  with  red  harness 
and  saddles,  and  waiting  for  customers. 
The  fourth  donkey  made  a  queer  honk- 
ing noise,  caught,  it  would  seem,  from 
an  auto  horn. 

A  white  flanneled  youth,  swarthy  in 
his  tropic  coloring  and  carrying  a 
white  parasol,  cast  a  languishing  look 
at  my  companion  as  he  passed.  I 
glared  over  the  expression  of  an  ad- 
miration which  I  of  all  men  ought  to 
recognize  with  charity.  The  danger 
moment  of  sentiment  was  passed,  and 
we  went  to  join  Margaret's  mother, 
resting  in  a  seat  that  gave  the  widest 
sea  view. 

She  met  me  with  encouraging  cor- 
diality, did  Mrs.  Matthewson.  She 
expressed  no  great  surprise  at  my  sud- 
den arrival,  but  furled  her  decorous, 


THOUGH  THE  SEA  ROAR 


123 


violet  parasol,  and  made  polite  in- 
quiries after  the  health  of  my  brother's 
wife,  the  youthful  bit  of  matronhood 
who  is  my  sole  feminine  connection, 
and  who  had  pneumonia  when  the 
Matthewsons  sailed  last  fall.  I  assured 
her  that  Gladys  was  quite  well,  but 
if  I  were  to  describe  m}^  latest  impres- 
sion of  that  pleasing  young  person,  I 
would  say  that  she  was  not  only  well, 
but  wise;  unspeakable  wisdom  had 
looked  from  her  eyes  when  I  disclosed 
the  fact  that  I  was  about  to  sail. 

"This  is  our  farewell  look  at  Men- 
tone,"  Margaret's  mother  volunteered. 
"We're  leaving  for  Genoa  at  eleven." 
It  was  good  in  her  to  express  her  pleas- 
ure that  I  was  leaving  by  the  same 
train;  when  I  am  hopeful  as  to«  my 
future  domestic  relations,  I  rather  con- 
gratulate myself  on  Margaret's  mother, 
but  this  time  I  felt  it  wise  not  to  meet 
the  daughter's  eyes. 

So  it  was  as  a  family  party  we  took 
the  train  for  Genoa,  bundling  out  at 
Ventimiglia  for  customs.  We  waited, 
side  by  side,  at  the  dingy  counter,  and 
for  the  second  time  in  two  days  my 
suit  case  and  bag  lay  remorselessly 
open  to  the  fruitless  search  for  "tabac," 
ever  hunted  of  the  custom-house  offi- 
cials. 

My  revenge  for  the  donkey  sign  was 
at  hand.  My  beloved  had  stood  with 
her  head  politely  averted  while  my 
effects,  not  even  unpacked  at  Mentone, 
were  disclosed,  but  she  turned,  startled 
by  two  English  words  which  I  empha- 
sized pointedly  in  the  current  of  my 
labored  French.  "Family  portraits," 
I  told  the  officer  as  he  opened  a  folding 
photograph  case  showing  Margaret  — 
Margaret  in  cap  and  gown,  Margaret 
in  an  adorable  creation  built  for  her 
first  big  dance,  and,  best  of  all  in  my 
eyes,  Margaret  sweet  and  girlish,  in 
shirtwaist  garb  of  last  summer.  She 
flashed  on  me  the  look  I  watch  for  and 
rarely  see,  then  turned  away  hastily  to 
her  own  luggage,  now  being  unstrapped 
for  this,  the  most  exacting  of  customs. 


Margaret's  fine  unconsciousness. was 
a  little  ruffled  as  we  regained  our  com- 
partment, and  our  restored  luggage 
thundered  into  the  racks  above  our 
heads.  She  even  looked  distinctly 
nervous  when  it  became  apparent  that 
her  mother  was  going  to  sleep.  I 
handed  out  observations  intended  to 
be  reassuring,  but  in  my  heart  I  wel- 
comed the  change  from  the  cheerful 
and  hopeless  good-fellowship  which  for 
the  past  year  had  marked  her  attitude 
towards  me. 

It  was  at  Bordighera,  the  place  with 
the  Roman  tower,  that  the  EngHsh- 
woman  got  in.  I  can't  say  that  I 
shared  the  evident  relief  that  Margaret 
evidently  felt  in  this  lady's  advent.  I 
resented  her  presence,  her  gentle  voice, 
her  accent  so  marked  that  it  was  al- 
most a  brogue,  her  neat,  whitish  gray 
hair,  and  equally  good  gray  face,  to 
which,  with  terrible  cleverness,  she  had 
matched  up  her  gray  gown,  hat,  long 
veil  and  gloves.  Margaret  went  so  far 
as  to  address  our  companion.  Their 
talk  ebbed  and  flowed,  while  I  fell  into 
a  morbid  sort  of  revery  which  covered 
the  question  of  Margaret's  desire  not 
to  talk  with  me,  and  which  finally 
decided  against  the  theory  that  some 
dressmaking  fiend  had,  in  spite, 
matched  up  the  gray  lady  and  her 
chilling  garments,  when  I  became 
aware  of  the  altered  tones  of  Margaret's 
voice.  Now  her  voice  is  good,  and  she 
knows  it, — clear,  sweet  and  low  toned, 
— but,  under  the  influence  of  the  British 
accents  near  her,  she  was  unconsciously 
bringing  out  her  best  Boston- Wellesley 
pronunciation;  ringing  strange,  new 
cadencies  on  familiar  words  as  she 
breathed  in  throaty  accents  her  ac- 
count of  the  "shocking  delay  of  our 
hand  luggage  at  customs.  "  My  delight 
caused  me  to  drop  the  Baedeker  I  had 
not  been  reading,  and  Margaret  turned, 
met  my  eyes  and  looked  guilty,  then 
annoyed,  lastly  smiled  frankly  at  her 
own  folly  and  finished  in  her  natural 
inflection. 


124 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


It  was  just  this  side  of  San  Reno  that 
the  EngHshwoman  became  alert. 

"Oh,  just  here,"  she  murmured;  and 
stepping  on  firm,  flat-heeled  boots  out 
into  the  corridor  she  gazed  out  of  the 
window,  then  beckoned  to  Margaret. 
"I  think  that  this  will  interest  you  — 
a  sad  sight!" 

I  hadn't  been  invited,  so  sat  pre- 
tending to  read,  really  watching  my 
heart's  problem.  How  sweet  and  un- 
attainable she  seemed,  how  fair  the 
throat  showed  above  the  blue  coat 
collar,  how  the  sunlight  made  her 
bronze  hair  shine.  But  her  world  was  full 
without  me — how  many  years  more 
would  it  take  me  to  learn  my  lesson ! 

At  this  point  Margaret  turned.  Such 
a  look  as  she  gave  me,  a  little  frightened,, 
almost  appealing,  wholly  compelling  — 
it  started  me  to  my  feet,  and  I  joined 
them  at  the  window. 

"There  you  may  see  a  fragment  of 
the  wall;"  the  stranger  pointed  a  gray 
glove  finger  to  a  helpless  mass  of 
masonry  over  which  the  waves  dashed, 
retreating  discolored  with  dissolving 
cement.  "You  see  they  are  building  a 
temporary  road  to  the  left  of  that  small 
inn;  some  friends  of  mine  attempted 
to^motor  through  here  yesterday,  and 
were  compelled  to  return  to  San  Reno.  " 
The  leisurely  Italian  express  was 
giving  us  an  awesome  panorama,  — 
bright  sunshine  beating  on  the  ruins 
of  a  sea  wall;  here  a^curious  effect  of 
a  gate,  only  an  arch  spanning  a  gaping 
breach  through  which  playful  white 
waves  dashed  joyfully,  availing  them- 
selves of  their  new  playground,  and 
curling  almost  to  the  rails  of  the  track. 
A  sunny  stone  house  of  some  pre- 
tensions had  sunk  on  one  side,  as  if 
quietly  kneeling,  its  foundations  sapped 
by  the  inrushing  water. 

"Those  houses  have  been  aban- 
doned," went  on  the  sweet  voice. 
"The  police  required  it ;  the  walls  being, 
as  you  see,  quite  unsafe.  You  know 
thisjegion  has  so  frequently  been  deso- 
lated ;  the  people  are  too  sadly  familiar 


with    such    warnings;    they    fear    an 
earthquake,  the  sea  is  so  angry.  " 

A  temporary  road  was  building  be- 
yond the  abandoned  houses  that  had 
once  faced  the  royal  highway  that  the 
ocean  now  claimed.  Cheerful  Italian 
workmen  were  dumping  heavy  loads 
of  stone.  I  remember  the  first  load  was 
drawn  by  three  horses,  fastened  one 
before  the  other,  each  decorated  with 
red  worsted  tassels.  It  seemed  to  me 
that  the  new  road  already  in  progress 
might  well  be  named  "Death  to  Tires. " 

The  illustrated  lecture  we  were 
listening  to  seemed  to  me  demoral- 
izing, and  I  broke  in,  hoping  to  impart 
a  more  cheerful  tone  to  the  monologue: 
"After  all,  are  not  these  small  tidal 
wa\»es  of  rather  ordinary  and  brief 
occurrence?" 

"  By  no  means! "  answered  our  friend 
severely,  "most  extraordinary.  It  was 
perhaps  eleven-thirty,  the  night  be- 
fore last, "  she  went  on,  not  to  be  done 
out  of  her  dramatic  recital,  "when 
people  were  awakened  by  a  most 
terrifying  slamming  of  window  shutters 
and  the  roaring  of  the  sea;  the  theory 
is  that  a  submarine  earthquake  has 
taken  place." 

Margaret  was  listening  silently,  her 
face  white,  her  eyes  startled.  A  girl 
friend  of  hers  at  college  had  been  one 
of  the  survivors  of  the  Messina  earth- 
quake, and  the  recital  of  its  horrors 
had  made  Margaret  declare  that  she 
would  never  again  go  to  Italy. 

I  touched  her  arm,  I  couldn't  stand 
her  terror.  "Come  in  and  sit  down 
Margaret,"  I  ventured,  and  led  the 
way  to  our  compartment,  but  she  stood 
by  the  window  watching  the  sea  wall 
crumbling  at  her  feet. 

The  breath  of  a  good  cigar  punc- 
tuated my  musing,  and  a  wrathful 
masculine  voice, lowered  a  little  in  def- 
erence to  ladies  its  owner  was  passing, 
came  out  of  the  corrider. 

"I'm  going  to  cut  this  region.  I 
choose  some  other  form  of  death  than 
being   buried    in    a    mud    bank."     A 


PETTY  ECONOMIES 


125 


burl^^man,  actually  pale  with  fright, 
stopped  at  the  window  where  Margaret 
stood,  and  pulled  his  companion's 
arm.  "Look  at  that  water,  it's  rising 
all  the  time. " 

There  was  a  rustle  of  feminine  gar- 
ments at  the  door.  Margaret  rushed 
by  her  sleeping  mother  straight  to  me, 
coming  so  close  in  her  blessed  fright 
that  I  felt  her  sweet  breath  on  my 
cheek.  "Bob!  Bob!"  she  whispered, 
"did  you  hear  what  that  man  said 
about  the  water  rising?  Do  you  sup- 
pose there  will  be  an  earthquake?" 

I  count  it  as  one  of  the  brave  deeds 
of  my  life  that  I  did  not  put  my  arms 
around  Margaret,  though  I  found  this 
new,  tremulous  phase  most  danger- 
ously attractive.  I  only  took  her  hand, 
and  told  her  that  any  danger  from  this 
particular  disturbance  must  now  be 
over,  that  the  sea  seemed  to  me  much 


quieter  than  yesterday,  that  the  high 
water  was  doubtless  the  result  of  a 
storm  at  sea,  that  she  was  going  to 
Florence,  and  that  I  believed  that  there 
had  never  been  an  earthquake  there. 
I  had  talked  against  time,  pulling  her 
gently  down  to  a  seat  beside  me.  She 
sat  very  quiet,  and  at  last  looked 
up. 

"Bob,  you  are  such  a  comfort!" 
"Margaret!"   I   said,   and  my  voice 
was  no  longer  steady,  "what  strength 
and  comfort  there  is  in  me  are  all  yours, 
if  you  only  wanted  me.  " 

Her  mother  slept  peacefully.  At  the 
corridor  window  the  gentle  English- 
woman still  gazed  delightedly  at  the 
signs  of  destruction.  Then  I  felt  Mar- 
garet's hand  in  mine,  and  the  voice  I 
love  best  in  the  world  answered  me, 
almost  in  a  whisper:  "Stay  with  'me 
always,  Bob,  I  need  you." 


•ummers  Jrassmg 

By  Alix  Thorn 


A  glint  of  crimson  in  the  woodland  arches, 
A  mellow  sheen  upon  the  steep  hillside; 

Shy  asters  blooming  by  the  dusty  highway, 
And  goldenrod^agleam  in  meadows  wide. 


White  feathery  milkweed,  bursting  from  her 
prison, 

Blue  hills  outlmed  against  a  bluer  sky. 
While  sturdy  brakes  within  the  rocky  pasture 

Take  russet  hues,  as  sunny  days  go  by. 


Cool  winds  sweep  forth  from  mystic  forest  spaces, 
Gay  squirrels  chatter  on  the  mossy  wall,  — 

'Tis  Summer  passing,  sure  'tis  Autumn  coming, 
And  all  my  heart  responds  unto  her  call. 


Petty  Economies 

By  Kate  Gannett  Wells 


UNTIL  it  has^become  second 
nature  one  grows  tired  of 
being  economical,  and  then 
comes  the  fear  that  one  may  be  getting 
mean  and  that  little  economies,  neces- 


sary as  one  had  supposed,  are  changing 
into  petty  needless  evils.  Then  it  is 
well  to  remember  that  the  former  are 
vital,  related  to  circumstances,  but  the 
latter  to  meanness  of  heart.     Saving 


126 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


scraps  for  a  purpose,  for  patchwork 
bedquilts  or  soft  soap,  ironing  out  paper 
bags,  is  all  right,  while  saving  just  for 
the  sake  of  saving,  counting  empty 
oyster  shells,  to  see  if  there  are  more 
than  there  were  raw  oysters  for  dinner, 
is  confusing  to  honesty  of  purpose. 
Another  bad  thing  about  saving  is  that 
it  gets  to  be  such  an  inveterate  habit 
that  one  cannot  forego  it  as  one  grows 
thin  in  body  and  mind  practising  it. 

The  great  truth  in  all  economy  is  to 
live  according  to  one's  means,  not 
grudging  unto  another  the  outlay  one 
cannot  afford  herself.  To  keep  economy 
noble,  it  must  be  a  means  to  an  end, 
not  an  end  in  itself. 

Economy  will  probably  exist  as  long 
as  there  are  people,  though  its  character 
will  constantly  change.  We  do  not 
today  save  our  basting  threads ;  we  buy 
our  sheets  already  hemmed;  it  is  often 
cheaper  to  purchase  our  underwear, 
made,  than  to  make  it  ourselves;  but 
we  do  still  busy  ourselves  with  hand- 
made rugs  and  embroidered  table  linen. 
Thus  is  it  that  the  difference  between 
petty  and  little  economies  lies  in  the 
need  of  their  present  vitality,  remem- 
bering always  that  fussiness  in  house- 
keeping is  really  extravagance. 

Economy  of  time  is  not  always  as 
important  as  economy  in  food.  Yet 
the  modem  excuse  for  the  aesthetics  of 
food,  their  pretty  table  dressing,  is  no 
excuse  when  one  has  to  do  it  all  herself, 
at  expense  of  scanty  strength  of  body. 

The  economical  purchasing  and  prep- 
aration of  food  should  go,  dish  by  dish, 
with  economy  of  time  in  its  preparation. 
The  carrots,  turnips,  radishes,  lemons, 
cut  into  fanciful  sections,  are  not  real 
aids  to  appetite.  A  friend,  who  on  a 
very  limited  income  sets  a  better 
table  than  do  most  persons  who  have 
plenty,  and  who  is  more  generous  to 
others  than  even  to  herself,  says  that 
she  has  found  the  secret  of  true  econom}^ 
to  consist  in  learning  to  do  without 
things.  She  literally  never  wants  what 
she  cannot  get  or  can  get  only  b}^  dis- 


proportionate use  of  strength ^om- 
pared  with  time.  So  she  often  seems 
to  be  at  leisure,  because  she  has  time  for 
books  and  looking  at  the  sunsets. 
Another  woman,  who  does  all  her  in- 
door and  most  of  her  outdoor  work, 
complained  because  a  neighbor  did  no 
outdoor  work,  had  no  care  of  cows,  pigs 
and  garden.  That  was  work;  but  to  sit 
at  the  window  in  the  morning  and  sew, 
occasionally  lifting  one's  eyes  to  see 
what  was  going  on  across  the  road,  in- 
stead of  keeping  on  one's  feet  all  day 
long,  was  sheer  idleness  and  careless 
housekeeping.  Criterions  of  industry 
differ.  Some  people  still  seem  to  think 
that  the  proof  of  past  industry  consists 
in  being  worn  out  when  night  comes 
and  dying  early,  while  modem  doctors 
say  one  must  be  eternally  busy  about 
something,  if  only  a  fad,  in  order  to 
keep  well.  Both  opinions  are  extremes, 
but  each  one  of  us  has  to  learn  by  ex- 
perience rather  than  by  precept. 
Another  friend,  generous  by  dint  of 
constant  economy,  puts  her  very  old 
dresses,  too  old  to  give  away  to  anyone, 
into  the  ash  barrel,  forseeing  that  when 
its  contents  are  looked  over  by  the 
women  who  haunt  the  dump  heap,  one 
of  them  will  rejoice  over  the  find  of  a 
waist  and  skirt. 

A  coal  hod,  oftener  a  pail,  of  cinders 
tells  the  story  of  a  housekeeping  life. 
What  are  clinkers  to  one  person  is  good 
coal  to  another.  When  a  baby  is  bathed 
in  a  dustpan,  it  may  be  because  his 
father  has  to  pay  taxes  for  water,  so 
much  water  must  not  be  used.  If 
lambs'  hearts  are  served  with  potted 
pigeons,  it  is  because  the  hostess  has 
not  enough  self-respect  to  serve  an 
ordinary  stew  to  her  guests.  Alas  for 
her,  some  one  is  sure  to  notice  the 
absence  of  tiny  legs  on  the  hearts! 

The  vision  in  economy  is  ennobling 
when  it  foretells  a  high-school  educa- 
tion for  one's  child,  but  not  when  it 
means  a  dress  of  coarse,  cheap  material, 
tucked,  embroidered,  laundered  by  the 
tired  hands  of  a  weary  mother.    Again 


PETTY  ECONOMIES 


127 


is  t]^  vision  pathetic  when  it  conveys 
a  luSng  sense  of  the  beautiful.  Strips 
of  newspaper  cut  into  roughly  scalloped 
edges  as  fringe  for  the  shelves  of  a 
kitchen  closet  (though  flies  may  light 
on  the  unscreened  food)  hints  that  the 
housewife  is  trying  to  idealize  the 
economy  that  presses  upon  her.  A 
biscuit  lounge  cushion,  each  square  of 
stuff  puffed  out  to  represent  well-risen 
biscuit,  speaks  again  of  the  craving  for 
beauty,  even  if  its  outcome  tells  of 
cookery.  If  unthinkingly  laughed  at  by 
the  city  boarder,  it,  yet,  is  the  pride  of 
the  village  housekeeper,  and  may  win 
a  prize  at  some  fair! 

If  economy  were  not  too  often  con- 
sidered as  the  equivalent  of  drudgpry, 
marriages  might  be  more  numerous. 
If  a  workman  would  promise  never  to 
sit  down  to  table  in  his  shirt  sleeves,  a 
girl  might  be  more  willing  to  cook  for 
him.  Her  clean  apron  should  be  the 
accompaniment  of  his  rusty  coat. 
Economy  is  delightful  when  it  brings 
helpful  results,  deepened  affection  and 
broadened  mind.  It  is  unwelcome 
when  it  entails  spite,  jealousy,  vulgarity. 
Unfortunately  women  are  apt  to  lose 
their  sense  of  proportion  in  regard  to 
themselves,  and  have  not  enough  self- 
dignity  and  consideration  for  the  future, 
to  keep  themselves  well  by  eating  as 
good  food  as  they  give  to  their  children 
and  men  folks.  Many  a  baby  in  a  play- 
ground will  be  drinking  tea  out  of  a  beer 
bottle  or  munching  a  heavily  buttered 
piece  of  bread  while  its  mother  eats  the 
crust  and  goes  thirsty.  The  baby  does 
not  know  any  better,  but  the  mother 
should  see  to  it  that  the  infant  does  not 
grow  up  to  be  a  selfish  son,  the  spend- 


thrift husband  of  some  pretty,  sickly 
girl. 

It  is  not  always  economy  for  a 
woman  to  walk  to  her  work  when  her 
man  goes  by  trolley.  Where  does  the 
money  come  from  which  pays  for 
countless  daily  trolley  rides? 

Pitiably  mean,  however,  is  the 
woman  who  refuses  trolley  fare  to  her 
worker  by  the  day  or  her  seamstress, 
feeds  them  scantily  and  keeps  them  at 
top  speed  of  their  ability  up  to  the 
limit  of  their  time ;  and  thricefold  mean 
is  the  woman  who  delays  paying  her 
dressmaker,  who  in  return  cannot  pay 
off  her  girls,  who,  then,  cannot  pay  their 
room  rent  and  table  board  bill,  and 
who  perforce  wear  leaky  shoes,  get  cold, 
work  on  and  live  on  promises  of  payment 
when  —  the  boss  employer  gets  paid. 

Let  no  one  boast  of  her  economy  who 
cannot  separate  the  little  from  the 
petty  economies.  Let  no  one  imagine 
that  she  need  not  take  heed  unto  her 
thoughts  because  she  is  laboring  under 
stress  of  practical  economies,  for  all  the 
more  must  one  be  really  generous  in 
thought  when  one  cannot  be  by  purse. 
Alwa3^s  does  the  Nemesis  of  false 
economy  bring  loss  of  friends,  loss  of 
interest  in  life,  in  causes,  in  books,  while 
true  economy  makes  one  rich  in  sym- 
pathy, keen  to  comfort  with  apprecia- 
tion those  who  are  struggling  with  the 
hard  facts  of  life,  and  trustful  of  the 
patience  and  the  longing  for  the  beauti- 
ful that  are  hidden  in  all  the  striving 
for  something  better.  It  is  not  the 
actual  wealth  of  others  that  economy 
craves,  but  the  ability  to  create  by 
economy  enough  to  make  happy  those 
whom  we  love. 


A  Souvenir  Enforced 

By  Leslie  Davis 


MRS.  BIRCHARD  looked  up 
from  her  embroidery.  "Hen- 
ry," she  announced,  "I  have 
been  thinking  about  giving  a  ladies' 
luncheon." 

"Well,"  responded  her  husband, 
encouragingly,  "that  would  be  nice." 

"Yes,"  she  pursued,  meditatively, 
"teas  are  pleasant  and  card  parties  are 
exciting,  but  I  don't  think  one  really 
enjoys  anything  more  than  an  informal 
luncheon.  I  believe  I'll  invite  eleven, 
that  will  make  twelve  of  us,  and  twelve 
is  such  an  easy  number  to  serve,  a 
dozen  of  everything  just  goes  around. 
Now  when  would  you  have  it?  How 
would  Tuesday  do,  the  fourth?" 

Judge  Birchard  placed  a  black  six  on 
a  red  seven  in  his  game  of  solitaire, 
then  he  looked  up  with  a  laugh.  "It 
seems  to  me,  Bertha,"  he  remarked, 
slyly,  "that  the  fourth  will  just  about 
be  somebody's  birthday." 

His  wife  beamed  upon  him. 

"  Henry  Birchard,  your  are  the  best 
husband !  How  do  you  remember  ?  It's 
the  rarest  of  virtues.  If  you  only  knew 
how  some  women  have  to  hint  and 
maneuver  in  order  to  have  any  notice 
taken  of  their  anniversaries !  They  are 
forced  to  be  quite  shameless  about  it. 
Yes,  it  will  be  my  birthday,  but  no  one 
will  know  it,  unless  it  is  Sally  Palmer; 
old  school  friends  have  dreadful  mem- 
ories. You  see,  Henry,  I  want  to  have 
the  luncheon  soon,  because  I  have  an 
uncertain  feeling  about  this  Anna  of 
ours;  I  am  so  afraid  she  will  leave,  and 
she  does  serve  beautifully.  I  needn't 
worry  about  faithful  old  Maggie,  she 
will  cook  everything  perfectly." 

While  the  cards  were  being  shuffled, 
Judge  Birchard  looked  over  at  his  wife 
inquiringly.  "If  I  am  satisfactory  as 
a  husband  and  Anna  and  Maggie 
are    equal    to    their    parts,    why  that 


anxious  pucker  in  your  forehead?"  he 
asked. 

"Oh,  it's  really  nothing,  Henry, 
nothing  at  all;  but  I  do  wish  I  were 
more  original!  You  see,  every  hostess 
tries  to  have  something  a  little  different, 
a  souvenir,  or  anything  of  that  sort, 
and  I  have  racked  my  brain,  but  I 
simply  cannot  think  of  a  thing  that 
hasn't  been  done  before." 

The  Judge  rose  and  looked  down 
upon  her  affectionately.  "I  wouldn't 
worry  about  that.  Bertha,"  he  reassured 
her.  "Give  them  a  good  luncheon,  and 
I  don't  think  they  will  miss  the  some- 
thing different.  Well,  I  have  to  go 
down  town  now,  I  agreed  to  meet 
Markham  at  the  club." 

But  he  did  not  go  directly  to  the  club. 
Instead  he  made  straight  for  the  glitter- 
ing counters  of  Mann  &  Company,  his 
resource  in  the  annual  struggle  to  find 
a  suitable  token  with  which  to  celebrate 
Bertha's  natal  day.  • 

"A  little  something  for  my  wife,"  he 
confided  to  the  friendly  salesman,  who 
had  assisted  in  the  yearly  rite  many 
times  previous. 

"Ah,  yes.  Let  me  see.  Mrs.  Birch- 
ard is  pretty  well  provided  with  the 
usual  table  silver,  I  believe.  Here  now 
is  something  a  trifle  out  of  the  ordinary ; 
small  individual  skewers  in  silver.  How 
would  they  do?" 

"Just  the  thing!"  The  Judge  was 
delighted  to  have  found  his  gift  so 
easily.  Bertha  would  be  charmed,  and 
she  could  use  the  skewers  for  the  first 
time  in  her  birds  on  Tuesday.  A 
master  stroke! 

"There  is  a  small  space  for  engrav- 
ing," the  clerk  suggested,  amiably. 
"The  initials,  as  I  remember,  are 
B.  L.  B.?" 

Judge  Birchard  hesitated.  "I  have 
always  had  the  date  on  her  presents," 


128 


A  SOUVENIR  EXFORCED 


129 


he  considered.  "As  the  place  is  so 
small,''"  how  would  it  do  to  omit  the 
letters  and  simply  put  on  the  date?" 

"  Certainly,  only  a  matter  of  choice ; " 
and  that  concern  so  easily  adjusted,  the 
Judge  went  complacently  on  to  his  club. 

Perhaps  no  entertainment,  howev^er 
successful  ultim.ately,  ever  ghded 
smoothty  toward  completion  without  a 
hitch.  In  the  morning  of  the  appointed 
Tuesday,  Mrs.  Birchard  was  summoned 
to  the  telephone  at  the  call  of  her 
friend,  Mrs.  Palmer. 

"Oh,  Bertha,  I  am  so  sorry,  but  I 
cannot  come  to  your  luncheon  after 
aU!  Cousin  AmeHa  has  come  doT\-n 
from  Piedmont  to  spend  the  day  with 
me." 

"SaUy!  What  a  shame!  Let  me 
think  a  minute.  Why,  of  course  you 
must  come  and  bring  Cousin  Amelia 
with  you!" 

"That  is  perfectly  sweet  of  you. 
Bertha,  but  have  you  considered?  She 
would  make  thirteen  at  the  table." 

"So  she  would."  Then  after  a 
pause,  "WeU,  what  if  she  does?  I 
don't  believe  there  is  any  one  left  on 
earth  so  benighted  that  she  would 
object  to  sitting  thirteen.  I'll  tell  you 
what  I'll  do,  Sally,  I'll  call  each  one 
up  and  ask  her  and  let  you  know  the 
result." 

A  series  of  telephone  talks  elicited 
the  agreeable  information  that  none 
of  the  guests  would  feel  uneasy  in  the 
least,  so  the  matter  was  arranged  and 
at  the  appointed  hour  the  visitors, 
emancipated  from  superstition,  greeted 
each  other  and  Cousin  Amelia  at  ^Irs. 
Birchard's  hospitable  board. 

It  was  a  dehghtful  luncheon.  Gay 
bits  of  spirited  chatter  and  waves  of 
airy  laughter  filled  the  dining-room, 
while  one  delicious  dish  succeeded  an- 
other, prepared  by  the  gifted  Maggie 
and  served  by  the  irreproachable  Anna. 

It  was  with  pardonable  pride  that 
in  due  time  Mrs.  Birchard  surv'eyed  a 
row  of  plates,  each  adorned  with  a 
round,  brown  bird  held  firmly  together 


by  a  httle,  shining,  silver  skewer. 
Only  a  very  keen  obser\^er  would  have 
noticed  that  the  hostess's  bird  was 
unspeared. 

SmiHngly  she  watched  her  guests; 
each  face  reflected  her  ovm  pleasure. 
A  murmur  of  admiration  went  up  from 
around  the  table;  then  —  oh,  could 
she  beHeve  her  ears? 

"What  a  perfectly  original  way  of 
presenting  souvenirs!"  her  left-hand 
neighbor  was  exclaiming. 

"Isn't  it?"  another  guest  chimed  in. 
"Mrs.  Birchard,  you  are  too  clever!" 

"They  have  the  date  on!  How 
cunning!  It  is  the  prettiest  memento 
I  have  had  all  this  autumn,"  declared 
a  third.  "I  am  going  to  pull  mine  out 
at  once  so  that  I  will  not  forget  to  take 
it;  you'd  all  better  do  the  same,"  she 
advised  gayly,  and  the  others  agreed 
and  followed  suit. 

"How  did  you  happen  to  think  of 
giving  them?"  asked  Cousin  AmeHa 
mildly. 

]^Irs.  Birchard  heard  as  in  a  night- 
mare. They  were  appropriating  her 
birthday  present  and  she  was  power- 
less even  to  speak!  She  ^tttist  say 
something,  she  thought,  and  managed 
a  feeble  smile. 

"The  idea  came  to  me  quite  sud- 
denly," she  answered  at  last,  and  they 
all  nodded  brightly  at  her  and  went  on 
talking  happily. 

After  this  deHghtful  incident  the 
luncheon  progressed  as  successfully  as 
before.  Suddenly  Mrs.  Palmer's  voice 
came  floating  down  the  table. 

"You  needn't  think  I  have  forgotten 
it,  Bertha;  this  is  your  birthday!" 

Another  animated  chorus.  "Really? 
How  deHghtful!  Why  didn't  you  tell 
us,  we  could  have  brought  you  a 
present ! ' ' 

"What  did  you  receive?  do  tell  us!" 
asked  Cousin  Amelia  pleasantly. 

Insult  to  injury!  What  had  she  re- 
ceived, indeed! 

Mrs.  Birchard  pulled  herself  up 
quickly  and  answered  truthfully  and 


130 


THE    BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


proudly,  "'My  boy  at  Harvard  sent  me 
a  tea  caddy  and  Elizabeth  at  Laselle 
made  me  a  jabot  of  Irish  crochet  be- 
tween study  hours. " 

''How  nice!    And  the  Judge?" 

A  shadow  passed  over  Mrs.  Birch- 
ard's  face,  quickly  noticed  by  the 
tactful  Sally  Palmer. 

"Oh,  men  never  remember  birthdays, 
that  is  too  much  to  expect."  she  in- 
terrupted, gayly.  "How  is  Elizabeth 
getting  along.  Bertha?" 

But  Mrs.  Birchard's  loyal  soul  re- 
belled and  would  not  accept  the 
offered  diversion.  "My  husband  did 
remember,"  she  volunteered,  stoutly. 
"  He  gave  me  —  something!  "  and  with 
this  desperate  answer  she  rose  and  led 
the  way  into  the  drawing-room.  The 
luncheon  was  over. 

After  the  guests  had  gone  happily 
away  and  their  hostess  found  time  and 
a  breathing  space  in  which  to  adjust 
herself  to  the  odd  turn  which  affairs 


had  taken,  her  eyes  began  to  dance, 
and  when  Judge  Birchard  reached 
home  a  little  later  she  ran  eagerly  to 
meet  him,  wearing  the  happy  smile  he 
liked  to  see.    More,  she  was  radiant. 

"Well!"  he  exclaimed  delightedly, 
"did  the  luncheon  go  so  well?" 

"It  was  perfect!  Ever^'thing  was 
lovely!"  Then  she  hesitated  a  moment. 
"Henry,  you  mustn't  mind  too  much, 
but  the  skewers  — " 

' '  George !    Didn't  they  skew  ? ' ' 

"Yes,  but  the  ladies  thought  they 
were  souvenirs  and  took  them  all 
away!  Henn.*,  do  you  think  it  is  bad 
luck  to  sit  thirteen  at  table?  It  was 
verv^  hard  to  have  to  give  up  those 
skewers,  and  yet  they  made  the  most 
wonderful  souvenirs.  StiU  I  was  very 
fond  of  them.  Do  you  suppose  that 
some  time  I  could  have  — " 

' '  Hm. ' '  meditated  the  Judge, ' '  I  think 
it  is  bad  luck  for  me  when  you  sit 
thirteen  at  table." 


o 


asis 


By  Helen  Coale  Cre"^ 


Above  the  crovvded  city  roofs  I  see 

One  far-off  tree, 
High-lifted,  cool,  above  the  flickering  heat 

That  dims  the  street; 
A  gracious  greenness  to  the  wearied  eye 

Blinded  by  brazen  sky; 
Or,  leaf -bereft,  a  web-like  tracerv- 

That  holds  for  me 
The  passing  cloud,  the  ruddy  sunset  bars. 

The  little  silver  stars; 
Yea,  even  the  moon  herself,  a  golden  boat 

Now  caught,  and  now  afloat! 


O  Tree,  what  thoughts  are  thine  when  salty 
breeze 
Blows  from  the  seas; 
Or  when  sirocco  whispers  warm  to  thee 

The  desert's  mystery; 
Or  when,  impelled  by  spring's  glad  bourgeon- 
ing. 
Birds  to  the  northward  wing, 
Bearing  from   southern  lands   the   warmth 
and  glow 
Of  gardens  all  ablow. 


By  day  thou  art  a  tree,  but  in  the  night 

When  stars  are  bright, 
A  spirit  thou,  soft  mtirmuring  to  the  sky 

A  myriad  leafy  sigh. 
And  Druid-like,  I  bow,  I  worship  thee. 

Thou  Spirit  of  my  Treel 


''An  Autumn  Specter 

By  Fairfax  T.  Proudfit 


»> 


First   Paper 


^K 


ounce  of  prevention  is  worth 
a  pound  of  cure."  Never  was 
a  proverb  more  applicable  to 
the  season  and  the  case  than  this  one 
is  to  typhoid  fever.  Hand  in  hand 
with  the  beauties  of  the  autumn  season 
walks  that  grim  specter,  typhoid. 

It  matters  little  that  we  leave  our 
comfortable  homes  in  the  city  to  seek 
health  and  recreation  in  the  cool 
breezes  and  peaceful  shadows  of  shore 
and  hillside,  the  typhoid  germ  is  no 
respecter  of  person  or  place,  and  finds 
lodgment  in  the  crystal  depths  of  the 
mountain  spring,  the  wells  and  brooks 
of  the  country,  as  well  as  in  the 
milk  and  water  supply  of  the  city. 
The  innocent  and  succulent  bivalve, 
likewise,  harbors  a  horde  of  these 
insidious  little  germs,  which  lie  in  wait 
for  the  unwary  eater  of  uncooked  sea 
food,  and  brings  him  in  ignominy  to 
hospital  and  sick-room. 

The  assertion  of  "non-belief  in 
germs"  has  fostered  more  epidemics 
than  any  other  known  cause;  for  it  is 
this  stubborn  refusal  to  believe,  and 
the  refusal  to  take  the  prescribed  pre- 
cautions against  the  spread  of  infection, 
that  keeps  it  alive  and  passes  it  on, 
perhaps,  to  more  enlightened  but  still 
unfortunate  victims.  There  are  no 
officially  required  precautions  laid  down 
by  cit}'-  and  State  health  departments 
for  the  prevention  of  the  spread  of  this 
dread  disease  as  there  is  in  case  of 
other  infectious  diseases,  i.e.,  scarlet 
fever,  diphtheria  and  smallpox.  It  is, 
therefore,  most  requisite  and  necessary 
that  all  those  who  have  an  interest  in 
public  welfare  should  be  doubly  vigilant 
in  performing  all  those  prophylactic 
measures  with  which  science  has  pro- 
vided us,  that  we  may   protect   our- 


selves, our  dear  ones,  and  "the  stranger 
that  is  within  our  gates." 

In  the  treatment  of  typhoid  fever 
it  is  well  to  follow  the  three  "P's": 
"Proper  sanitation,"  "proper  hygienic 
conditions"  and  "proper  food."  To 
those  who  would  avoid  contracting 
the  disease,  let  us  say,  watch  the  water 
suppl}',  and  know  for  sure  that  the 
milk  you  drink  is  above  suspicion. 
In  country  districts  where  the  sanitary 
conditions  are  far  from  what  we  would 
have  them,  the  danger  lies  chiefly  in 
the  lack  of  proper  disinfection.  How 
often  whole  communities  have  been 
infected  through  the  carelessness  or 
lack  of  knowledge  on  the  part  of  the 
one  who  has  attended  a  case  of  ty- 
phoid fever! 

The  bed  linen  or  personal  linen  of  the 
patient  may  have  been  allowed  to  pass 
directly  into  the  common  laundry  bag, 
or  the  spoons,  glasses,  dishes,  etc., 
from  which  food  has  been  administered 
to  the  sick  one,  have  become  mixed  with 
those  used  by  the  family.  It  is  in  just 
these  little  and  seemingly  unimportant 
details  that  the  danger  Hes,  and  herein 
the  danger  must  be  watched  for  and 
guarded  against. 

If  there  has  been  a  case  of  typhoid 
fever  in  the  neighborhood,  find  out 
whether  the  nurse  in  charge  was  con- 
scientious and  used  proper  precautions 
as  to  disinfecting  all  the  water  used 
about  the  patient  and  sick-room,  and 
was  particularly  careful  about  thor- 
oughly disinfecting  all  the  dejecta 
from  the  patient,  or  whether  she  simply 
emptied  everything  upon  the  ground, 
thinking,  if  she  thought  at  all,  that 
nature  would  take  care  of  it.  This  is 
one  of  the  principal  ways  in  which 
springs  and  wells  become  contaminated ; 


131 


132 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


the  bacilli  seep  through  the  earth 
with  the  moisture,  or  are  washed  down 
by  the  rains  into  the  streams,  etc.,  mak- 
ing them  as  dangerous  to  drink  of  as 
any  other  poisoned  draught.  Cows, 
drinking  from  these  infected  streams, 
wells  or  springs,  pass  the  infection  on 
by  way  of  apparently  pure  and  deli- 
cious milk  and  cream.  Thus  you  see 
it  pays  to  know  the  source  of  your  water 
and  milk  supply,  and  if  there  should  be 
anything  doubtful  about  either,  take 
the  precaution  to  boil  it;  it  may  not 
retain  the  same  delightful  flavor,  but 
it  will  be  much  safer  so  treated. 

After  fever  is  once  contracted,  for 
sometimes  it  is  contracted  in  spite 
of  precautions,  prophylactic  measures 
must  be  taken,  to  protect  the  household, 
but  the  patient  must  be  treated  for  the 
disease.  This  treatment  lies  chiefly, 
first,  in  making  her  comfortable  by  keep- 
ing her  as  fresh  as  water  and  clean  linen 
will  make  her;  and,  secondly,  keeping 
her  strength  up  to  the  best  of  our  ability 
through  proper  kinds  of  food. 

Typhoid  fever  leaves  in  its  wake  ex- 
haustion so  complete  and  emaciation 
so  great  that  it  is  the  constant  study  of 
scientists  the  world  over  to  do  something 
to  modify,  at  least,  the  prevailing  con- 
ditions. Every  physician  has  his  own 
individual  ideas  as  to  proper  feeding  in 
typhoid  fever,  and  no  rigid  laws  can 
be  laid  down  to  cover  all  cases;  but  a 
general  knowledge  as  to  the  prevailing 
conditions  and  a  diet  to  guide  the  in- 
experiencecd  can  do  much  tow^ard  mak- 
ing our  dear  ones  more  comfortable 
and  save  them  from  some  of  the  suffer- 
ings attending  a  prolonged  convales- 
cence. 

The  question  then  is,  what  is  typhoid 
fever?  and  how  shall  we  feed  it? 

The  definition  is,  "An  acute  infec- 
tious disease,  excited  by  special  bacilli, 
characterized  by  definite  lesions  in 
Peyer's  patches,  mesenteric  glands 
and  spleen."  It  is  manifested  by 
fever,  headache,  abdominal  distention 
and     tenderness    and     more     or     less 


diarrhoea.  The  attack  is  generally  pre- 
ceded by  headache,  vague  pains,  some- 
times nosebleed.  A  rose-colored  rash 
appears  on  the  abdomen  about  the 
fifth  day,  rarely  later  than  the  ninth 
day.  The  temperature  rises  gradually 
to  its  highest  point,  in  from  two  to 
three  weeks,  and  remains,  as  a  rule, 
at  that  elevation,  i.e.,  from  103°-104°, 
from  one  to  three  w^eeks,  with  marked 
daily  remissions  from  one  to  three  "de- 
grees in  the  afternoons.  With  young 
children  the  rise  of  fever  may  be 
abrupt,  and  slight  abnormal  remis- 
sions indicate  a  protracted  case.  As 
the  time  advances  the  temperature  be- 
comes more  irregular,  sometimes  being 
higher  in  the  morning  than  in  the  after- 
noon. When  the  temperature  drops 
suddenly,  intestinal  perforation  or 
hemorrhage  is  indicated. 

The  intestinal  tract  is  the  "seat 
of  war,"  in  typhoid  fever.  Peyer's 
patches  are  nothing  more  than  ulcers, 
or  sores,  which  cover  the  inside  lining 
of  the  whole  intestinal  tract,  descending 
even  into  the  lower  bowel.  As  these 
ulcers  burrow  deeply  into  the  walls  of 
the  intestines,  it  is  important  to  know 
just  what  foods  to  give  the  patient,  so 
that  all  possible  pressure  may  be 
avoided,  and  the  weakened  surfaces  be 
allowed  to  heal  as  quickly  and  as  ex- 
peditiously as  possible.  The  listless  and, 
at  times,  unconscious  condition  of  the 
patient  makes  the  monotony  of  the 
diet  pass  unnoticed,  as  a  rule,  which  is 
well,  as  the  foods  allowable  are  not  so 
many   as   to    give  any   great  variety. 

Some  physicians  give  a  semi-solid 
diet  instead  of  a  fluid  one,  allowing  soft 
toast  and  soft-cooked  eggs;  but  these 
experiments  must  not  be  tried  without 
the  consent  of  the  physician  in  charge, 
one  who  is  willing  to  shoulder  the  re- 
sponsibility of  such  procedure.  Small 
quantities,  given  often,  are  almost  the 
invariable  rule  in  the  feeding  of  typhoid 
fever;  too  much  food  not  only  over- 
taxes the  weakened  digestive  appara- 
tus,  giving   rise   to   acute   indigestion, 


AUTUMN 


133 


but  it  likewise  disgusts  the  patient  with 
all  food,  causing  every  interval  of  feed- 
ing to  be  looked  upon  as  a  bugbear. 

In  using  the  milk  diet,  it  has  often 
been  found  advisable  to  add  a  teaspoon- 
ful  or  more  of  whiskey  or  brandy  to 
each  feeding;  it  helps  digest  the  milk 
and  furnishes  a  needed  stimulation  to 
the  desperately  ill  patient.  Broths  at 
times  totally  disagree;  this  is,  as  a  rule, 
from  personal  idiosyncrasy,  in  which 
case  other  liquid  foods  must  be  sub- 
stituted for  them. 

The  following  list  gives  a  fair  idea 
of  the  fluid  diets,  the  "milk  diet,"  and 
the  mixed  fluid  diet.  The  convalescent 
diet  must  only  be  instituted  after  the 
fever   has   been   off   entirelv  for  from 


five  to  six  days,  in  mild  cases,  to  ten 
days  or  two  weeks,  in  those  of  great 
severity.  Relapses  are  often  much 
worse  than  the  initial  attack,  and  over- 
feeding at  the  beginning  of  convales- 
cence has  been  the  cause  of  many 
deaths.  The  appetite  at  this  period  is, 
as  a  rule,  ravenous  and  can  in  no  wise 
be  taken  as  a  guide  to  the  patient's 
needs.  To  "make  haste  slowly,"  as 
the  old  proverb  tells  us,  is  much  the 
safer  and  saner  way  of  treating  our 
invalid. 


[In  her  next  paper  for  our  November  issue  the  author 
gives  in  detail  explicit  formulas  for  preparing  and  serv- 
ing a  milk  diet,  a  mixed  fluid  diet,  and  a  convalescent 
diet  ia  typhoid  cases.  The  article  will  be  very  valuable 
for  present  use  or  future  reference.  —  Editor.] 


Grapes 

By  L.  M.  Thornton 


Their  pungent  odor  fills  the  air 

With  spicy  perfume  subtly  sweet. 
Their  satin  cheeks,  so  smooth  and  fair, 

Look  good  enough  to  kiss  —  or  eat. 
I  spy  them  hidden  'neath  the  shade 

Of  emerald  leaf  and  curling  spire, 
And  there  my  truant  feet  are  stayed; 

And  there  I  linger  to  admire. 


To  feast  my  eyes,  and  feast  my  tongue, 

To  revel  in  their  chaliced  wine; 
Oh,  eyes  grow  bright  and  hearts  grow  young, 

Beneath  the  grape's  fruit-burdened  vine, 
Where  autumn  skies  are  darkly  blue 

And  crickets  chirp,  and  droning  bees 
Whisper  that  kindly  fairies  brew 

Life's  memories,  out  of  days  like  these. 


Autumn 

By  Lalia  Mitchell 


When  maple  leaves  begin  xu  sJiow 

A  tint  of  crimson  at  their  tips; 
When  clover  meadows  umber  grow 

And  somber-hued  the  pheasant  slips 
Through'copse  and  hedge,  the  truth  is  plain. 
We  near  the  end  of  stimmer's  reign. 


When  chestnut  burrs  have  prickly  grown 
And  apples  ripen  on  the  trees. 

When  crickets  chirp  their  monotone 
And  heavy-winged  the  laggard  bees 

Fly  hiveward,  then  we  know  at  last 

The  golden  summer  time  is  past. 


When  wild  grapes  redden  in  the  sun, 
And  milkweeds  spill  their  snowy  down; 

When  field  mice  through'the  stubble  nm, 
And  sumacs  wear  their  crimson  crown; 

When  birds  in  flocks  at  even  meet. 

Then  autumn  comes  on  flying  feet. 


134 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


THE 

BOSTON     COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary  Science  and   Domestic    Economics 
Janet  McKenzie   Hill,  Editor 

PUBLISHED   TEN  TIMES   A  YEAR 

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Homecomino; 

Oh!    the    jo}-    of    the    traveler,    homeward 
bound. 
As  he  speeds  over  land  and  sea, 
While  his  fancy  flies  faster  than  wheels  go 
round 
To  the  place  where  he  longs  to  be. 

Oh!  the  leap  of  the  heart  as  he  comes  at  last 
To  the  home  at  the  journey's  end. 

And  the  memories  crowd  on  him  thick  and 
fast 
Till  the  past  and  the  present  blend. 

Oh!  the  gladness  of  soul  to  behold  once  more 

All  the  faces  he  loves  so  well, 
And  rejoice  with  the  friends  he  has  known 
before 

In  the  tidings  they  have  to  tell. 

Oh!  how  blessed  the  home  is  no  heart  may 
know 

That  never  has  longed  for  its  rest; 
And  only  the  exile  returning  can  show 

That  the  absent  ones  love  it  best. 


THE  NEIGHBORLY  SPIRIT 

PEOPLE  who  live  in  small  villages 
cannot  understand  how  it  is 
that  city  folks  have  no  "neigh- 
bors." In  country  towns,  where  every- 
bod}'  knows  everybody,  a  neighbor- 
hood brings  families  into  relations  of 
close  intimacy.  Their  tastes  and  pur- 
suits may  not  be  at  all  congenial,  but 
one  accepts  neighbors  as  chosen  by 
Providence,  Hke  parents  and  relations, 
and  so  makes  the  best  of  them.  In  this 
community  Hfe  borrowing  and  lending 
are  a  part  of  the  regular  scheme.  There 
is  no  sense  of  obligation  in  an  even 
exchange  of  favors.  In  times  of  emer- 
gency, neighborly  friends  vie  with  each 
other  in  acts  of  kindness.  To  return 
from  a  prolonged  absence  and  find  your 
table  loaded  with  good  things  from 
others'  baking,  to  have  3^our  washing 
done  for  you  if  you  are  ill,  to  be  nursed 
through  sickness,  and  comforted  in 
bereavement,  are  matters  of  common 
experience  in  village  life.  "Where  paid 
service  is  difficult  or  impossible  to 
obtain,  the  labor  of  love  is  freely 
offered. 

The  facilities  of  city  life  make  all  such 
amenities  superfluous.  There  is  no 
excuse  for  borrowing  sugar  and  flour, 
with  a  grocer}"  around  the  comer  or  a 
telephone  in  the  hall.  Almost  every 
kind  of  paid  service  is  available  for 
emergencies.  Cooked  food  and  ready-, 
made  clothing  can  be  had  literall}^  at  a 
moment's  notice,  and  all  the  commodi- 
ties of  life  are  within  read}"  reach.  In 
consequence,  the  city  dweller  develops 
a  spirit  of  easy  independence  which 
makes  him  entirely  indifferent  to  his 
neighbors.  He  asks  nothing  and  offers 
nothing.  He  knows  absolutely  nothing 
about  adjacent  families.  The  word 
"neighbor"  is  practically  eliminated 
from  his  vocabulary. 

In  a  certain  measure  such  conditions 
have  immense  advantages  over  the 
customs  of  village  life.  The  domestic 
routine  is  more   methodical,   and   the 


EDITORIALS 


135 


household  machinery  runs  more 
smoothly.  One  is  saved  many  of  the 
annoyances  of  the  country  neighbor- 
hood,—  the  frequent  interruptions 
which  interfere  with  systematic  work, 
and  the  prying  eyes  and  inquisitive 
tongue  of  the  gossip. 

There  is  a  kind  of  freedom  in  living 
where  "nobody  knows  and  nobody 
cares"  what  you  do. 

But,  after  all,  human  life  is  planned 
on  the  basis  of  interdependence,  and 
human  nature  cries  out  for  companion- 
ship. Civilization  cannot  altogether 
stamp  out  the  social  instincts,  and  there 
are  times  when  the  most  hardened 
urbanite  suffers  the  pangs  of  loneliness. 
Returning  from  a  summer  outing  in  the 
country,  the  cold  stare  of  his  city 
fellows  fairly  freezes  up  the  springs  of 
human  friendliness  which  his  rural 
neighbors  had  opened  so  freely.  One 
cannot  always  be  running  to  and  fro 
on  visits  to  distant  friends.  Many  days 
must  eventually  be  spent  alone,  when 
a  friendly  nod  from  a  neighboring 
window  or  a  pleasant  greeting  from  a 
passer-by  would  be  a  welcome  break  in 
the  monotony. 

There  are  of  course  serious  objections 
to  rushing  into  intimacies  with  people 
of  whose  antecedents  you  knownothing. 
The  most  worldly  wise  are  often  de- 
ceived in  their  estimates  of  people. 
Unfortunate  complications  may  result 
from  being  over-confiding  with  stran- 
gers. It  is  impossible  and  undesirable 
to  transplant  village  neighborhood  life 
into  a  city  atmosphere.  No  thinking 
person  would  propose  such  an  absurdity. 
But  because  we  cannot  exactly  dupli- 
cate a  custom,  there  is  no  reason  why 
we  should  not  perpetuate  the  spirit  it 
expresses.  The  neighborly  spirit  may  , 
and  ought  to  flourish  on  any  soil.  It  is 
a  spirit  of  simple  human  fellowship.  It 
need  not  mean  intimacy;  it  is  merely  a 
spirit  of  kindliness.  It  keeps  the  happy 
medium  between  intrusiveness  and  in- 
difference. Many  stories  are  told  of 
people  who  live  side  by  side  for  a  long 


time  without  even  knowing  each  other's 
names,  only  to  discover,  by  some  sudden 
chance,  that  they  have  the  dearest 
interests  in  common.  Such  delays  in 
a  mutually  agreeable  acquaintance 
would  not  be  possible  if  the  neighborly 
spirit  were  properly  cultivated.  The 
exchange  of  some  simple  neighborly 
civilities  would  make  an  opportunity 
for  people  to  find  each  other  out. 

This,  then,  is  a  plea  for  the  revival  of 
a  neighborly  spirit  to  suit  the  conditions 
of  a  large  community  life.  Its  basis  is 
in  the  common  interests  of  the  street  or 
square.  It  does  not  require  the  ex- 
change of  formal  calls  or  social  favors. 
A  neighborly  relation  suf^cient  to 
enable  people  to  address  each  other  by 
name  in  daily  salutation,  and  to  consult 
each  other  in  matters  of  practical 
concern,  would  do  nobody  any  harm, 
and  might  work  a  great  deal  of  good. 
Such  a  spirit  should,  in  a  measure,  break 
down  the  barriers  of  artificial  conven- 
tion, and  enable  people  living  in  prox- 
imity to  regard  each  other  as  fellow 
human  beings. 

DO  NOT  HURRY 

IT  is  no  cause  for  surprise  with  us 
when  we  read  in  the  daily  papers 
of  great  churches  and  public  build- 
ings which  are  begun  and  finished  in 
the  course  of  a  year  or  two.  We  are 
used  to  these  twentieth-century 
miracles.  But  when  we  visit  the  great 
cities  of  the  Old  World  and  look  with 
wonder  on  cathedrals  and  palaces 
which  were  erected  long  ago,  we  are 
told  that  these  monuments  of  art  were 
centuries  in  the  building.  Generation 
succeeded  generation  while  they  were 
in  process,  so  that  the  finished  work 
represents  the  cumulative  thought  and 
effort  of  a  countless  number  of  indi- 
viduals. Our  modern  spirit  is  entirely 
opposed  to  this  slow,  old-fashioned  way. 
We  are  impatient  of  any  delay  in  the 
continuous  progress  of  every  under- 
taking. We  are  proud  of  the  splendid 
modem     appliances     which     scientists 


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THE    BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


have    invented    to    make    quick   work 
possible. 

But  the  spirit  of  hurry  costs  us  a 
heavy  price.  It  is  responsible  for  the 
great  American  disease  of  nervous 
prostration.  It  shortens  our  lives  and 
fills  them  with  small  worries.  It  spoils 
the  enjoyment  of  work.  Many  tasks 
which  ought  to  be  agreeable  become 
distasteful  simply  because  we  rush 
through  them  mechanically.  The  old- 
fashioned  housewife  who  thoroughly 
enjoyed  a  morning's  baking  is  quite  out 
of  date.  When  our  main  object  is  to 
get  through,  how  can  we  have  any  love 
for  the  work  itself?  Hurry  also  injures 
the  beauty  of  the  finished  product: 
the  little  finishing  touches  which  take 
time  and  loving  labor  are  altogether 
lost  in  much  that  we  do.  Any  task  that 
we  undertake  will  be  more  enjoyable, 
more  durable  and  more  successful  if  we 
take  the  proper  amount  of  time  for  it. 
Isn't  it  worth  while  to  be  a  little  old- 
fashioned  sometimes,  and  see  what  will 
come  of  it,  if  we  substitute  a  pains- 
taking spirit  for  the  spirit  of  hurry? 

A  KITCHEN  MOTTO 

A  THOUGHTFUL  housekeeper  in 
a  suburb  of  Boston  has  hung 
over  her  kitchen  sink  a  framed 
copy  of  one  of  Robert  Louis  Stevenson's 
prayers.  ' '  The  petty  round  of  irritating 
concerns  and  duties,"  to  which  he 
referred,  seemed  to  her  a  particularly 
appropriate  phrase  for  the  domestic 
routine.  His  petition  for  help  to  per- 
form them  "with  laughter  and  kind 
faces"  is  a  good  tonic  with  which  to 
roll  up  one's  sleeves  and  plunge  in. 
**Give  us  to  go  blithely  on  our  business," 
prayed  the  brave  poet,  stricken  as  he 
was  with  mortal  disease ;  and  the  house- 
keeper echoes  the  prayer,  however 
weary  she  may  be.  The  idea  is  worth 
imitating.  The  vogue  of  the  motto 
is  widespread.  Stationers  and  art 
dealers  furnish  an  attractive  selection 
which  find  their  way  into  many  offices 
and  homes.    The  fashion  of  introducing 


them   into   the   kitchen   is   one   every 
woman  will  appreciate.  e.  m.  h. 


"  Business  men  throughout  the  world 
are  beginning  to  see  that  war  not  only 
destroys  a  vast  amount  of  property 
and  robs  the  world  of  many  valuable 
lives,  but  that  also,  on  the  whole  and 
in  the  long  run,  it  makes  business  less 
profitable  the  world  over.  The  United 
States  under  the  direction  of  Congress 
are  now  spending  about  a  bilUon  dollars 
a  year.  It  has  repeatedly  been  stated 
that  seven  hundred  million  dollars  of 
this  money  is  spent  in  preparations  for 
war  and  in  payment  of  the  cost  of  war 
in  the  past.  That  leaves  us  three 
hundred  million  dollars  a  year  to  be 
spent  for  the  improvement  of  the 
country  and  the  benefit  of  the  millions 
of  laboring  men  whose  fortunes  would 
be  greatly  improved  if  we  had  great 
sums  of  money  to  spend  for  national 
internal  improvements." 


"Every  human  being  has  a  right  to 
earn  a  living,  and,  prehminary  to  the 
task  of  earning  a  livelihood,  every 
human  being  has  a  right  to  be  made 
fit  for  honorable  and  self-supporting 
toil.  Any  one,  rich  or  poor,  who  begins 
active  life  with  the  consciousness  that 
those  who  have  controlled  education 
and  development  up  to  that  time  have 
failed  to  furnish  for  him  such  prepara- 
tion has  a  just  grievance.  The  children 
of  the  rich  have  even  more  cause  for 
complaint  if  they  find  themselves  in 
such  a  predicament,  because  they  have 
a  double  disability  of  ignorance  and  a 
training  which  has  unfitted  them  for 
the  rough-and-tumble  of  life.  The  poor 
boy  may  not  have  been  well  trained, 
but  at  least  he  is  accustomed  to  meet- 
ing obstacles  and  overcoming  them. 
Individual  initiative  and  personal  ad- 
venture in  search  of  a  working  place 
and  vocation  are  much  more  interesting 
than  any  ready-made  program  of 
occupation  and  progress." 

—  The  Christian  Register. 


Boxed  Leg  of  Lamb,  Roasted.  Kohlrabi  Cups  with 
Vegetable  Macedoixe 


)easona 


ble  R 


ecipes 


By  Janet  M.  Hill 


IX  all  recipes  where  flour  is  used,  unless  other^v^ise  stated,  the  flour  is  measured  after  sifting 
once.  When  flour  is  measured  by  cups,  the  cup  is  filled  with  a  spoon,  and  a  level  cupful 
is  meant.  A  tablespoonful  or  a  teaspoonful  of  any  designated  material  is  a  level  spoonful 
of  such  material. 


Cocktail  of  Broiled  Live  Lobster 

WHILE  broiled  lobster  is  speci- 
fied for  this  cocktail,  the  dish 
may  be  prepared  from  lobster 
steamed  or  boiled.  Of  course  fresh- 
cooked  lobster  is  preferable  to  canned, 
but  choice  canned  lobster  may  be  used. 
Set  cocktail  glasses,  each  containing 
three  or  four  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato 
catsup  of  best  quality,  in  the  center  of 
small  plates;  on  each  plate  set  three  or 
four  heart  leaves  of  lettuce,  a  choice 
mouthful  of  lobster  on  each  leaf  and 
one  on  the  top  of  the  catsup  in  the  glass. 
With  an  oyster  fork  the  lobster  is  dipped 
into  the  catsup  and  eaten.  Serve  as  an 
appetizer  at  luncheon  or  dinner.  Salt, 
paprika,  horseradish,  lemon  juice,  ta- 
basco sauce  or  other  seasoning  may  be 
added  at  discretion  to  the  catsup. 


Lima  Bean  Soup  (To  Serve  Five 

or  Six) 
Cover  one  cup  of  dried  Lima  beans 
with  cold  water  and  let  stand  overnight ; 
drain,  rinse  in  water  and  set  to  cook  in 
about  a  quart  of  cold  water.  Let  cook 
until  tender,  adding  water  as  needed,  to 
avoid  burning.  When  the  beans  are 
partly  cooked,  slice  a  small  onion  and 
let  it  cook  in  three  or  four  tablespoon- 
fuls of  fat,  taken  from  the  top  of  a  dish 
of  soup  stock,  until  softened  and 
browned  a  little,  then  add  to  the  beans. 
Press  the  cooked  beans  through  a  sieve 
—  a  gravy  strainer  set  in  one  piece  of  a 
double  boiler  and  a  wooden  pestle  are 
the  best  utensils  for  the  purpose.  There 
will  be  about  a  pint  of  puree.  Melt 
one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter;  in  it  cook 
one-fourth  a  cup  of  flour,  one  teaspoon- 


137 


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THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


ful  of  salt  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  then  add  the  puree  and  stir 
until  boiling.  Finish  with  three  or  four 
cups  of  "second  broth"  — broth  made 
from  remnants  of  roasts,  steaks,  etc. 
The  neck,  feet  and  giblets  of  a  fowl  give 


choke-bottom  fashion,  cooked  tender 
and  filled  with  a  highly  seasoned 
macedoine  of  vegetables.  Set  the 
vegetable  cups  on  sections  of  cooked 
carrot,  from  which  the  centers  have 
been    taken     (with    an    apple    corer\ 


■        <>dlfek 

f  ^ 

►) 

■>s 

^^^^■■^^^^^"^^ 

>--^JfcS«;~.    ■ 

Roast  Leg  of  Lamb,  Fraxconia 


a  good  flavor  to  such  broth.  Milk  may 
be  used  in  place  of  the  broth,  when 
Cream  of  Lima  Bean  Soup  results.  The 
broth  should  be,  when  made,  flavored 
with  soup  vegetables  and  herbs. 

Boned  Leg  of  Lamb,  Roasted 
Have  the  shank  end  of  a  leg  of  lamb 
sawed  off  at  the  point  where  the  flesh 
ends;  sHp  the  point  of  a  thin,  sharp 
knife  in  between  the  skin  and  flesh  and 
the  bone  and  loosen  them  from  the 
bone  all  around  and  as  far  up  as  possi- 
ble. Beginning  at  the  other  end  cut 
and  push  the  flesh  from  the  bone, 
down  to  the  point  where  the  flesh  was 
detached  from  the  bone  at  the  shank 
end,  then  draw  out  the  bone  from 
above.  Mix  together  a  cup  of  crumbs 
from  the  center  of  a  stale  loaf  of  bread, 
one-third  a  cup  of  melted  butter,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  thyme  (or 
green  thyme,  chopped  fine),  one-fourth 
a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  pepper  and  salt ; 
press  this  into  the  open  space  in  the 
meat  and  sew  the  meat  to  enclose  it. 
Prepare  and  roast  as  in  the  succeeding 
recipe,  cooking,  however,  a  little  longer 
—  perhaps  fifteen  minutes.  Dispose 
on  a  hot  platter.  Surround  with  the 
upper  portion    of    kohlrabi,    cut    arti- 


that  the  kohlrabi  may  stand  level. 
String  beans,  flageolet,  and  carrots,  cut 
in  small  rounds,  were  used  in  the 
macedoine.  Prepare  a  bro^m  tomato 
sauce  (using  the  drippings  in  the  bak- 
ing pan")  to  serve  with  the  meat. 

Roast  Leg  of  Lamb,  Franconia 

Trim  oft'  superfluous  fat,  wipe  care- 
fully w4th  a  damp  cloth,  rub  over  with 
salt,  pepper  and  flour  and  set  to  bake  in 
a  hot  oven.  Baste  with  hot  fat  and 
dredge  with  flour  each  fifteen  minutes; 
reduce  the  heat  after  half  an  hour, 
and  let  cook  about  one  hour  and  a 
half.  When  the  lamb  is  half  cooked, 
have  ready  a  dozen  potatoes,  cooked 
ten  minutes  and  rinsed  in  cold  water, 
and  a  dozen  onions  that  have  been 
cooked  one  hour  and  rinsed  in  cold 
water.  Dispose  these  about  the  meat 
in  the  baking-pan.  Baste  the  vege- 
tables when  basting  the  meat.  Send 
the  vegetables  to  the  table  on  the 
platter  with  the  meat. 

Breaded  Mutton  Cutlets 

Have  eight  lamb  chops  cut  from  the 
ribs;  scrape  the  bones  and  trim  the 
chops,  French  fashion.  Broil  the 
chops,  leaving  them  a  trifle  underdone 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


139 


and  let  become   cold.     Have  ready  a 

sauce   made    of   one    tablespoonful    of 

butter,    four    tablespoonfuls    of    liour. 

half  a  teaspoonful.    each,  of   salt    and 

pepper  and  one  cup 

of  cream:    into    this 

stir    half    a    cup    of 

cooked  ham .  chopped 

tine.      AVhen    the 

chops   are   cold   and 

the     sauce     is     cool 

but    not     too    firm, 

season  the  chops  with 

salt  and  pepper,  and 

cover  both  sides  with 

sauce.     Let  stand  on 

a  buttered  plate  till 

firm,  then  "egg-and- 

crumb"  and  fry  in  deep  fat  till  nicely 

browned.     Sen.'e  with 

Cuban  Sauce 
Cook  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped 
ham  in  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter; 
when  the  ham  is  well  browned,  add  one- 
fourth  a  cup  of  flour  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  stir  until  frothy; 
then  add  one  cup  and  a  half  of  stock 
or  water  and  one  cup  of  tomato  ketchup 
or  chilli  sauce  and  stir  until  boiUng;  let 
simmer  ten  minutes,   strain  and  serve. 

Kohlrabi  au  Gratin 

Often  the  upper  part  of  kohlrabi  will 
cook    tender    very    quickly    while    the 


lower  half  does  not  become  tender  even 
with  long  cooking.  Pare  the  upper  half 
of  each  "globe""  and  let  cook  in  boiling 
water    until    tender:    add    salt    a    few 


Kohlrabi  au  Gratin 

moments  before  the  cooking  is  com- 
pleted. Dispose  the  vegetable  in  an  au 
gratin  dish,  pour  over  a  pint  (to  serve 
eighth  of  cream  sauce,  enriched  with 
the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  sprinkle 
\\-ith  grated  cheese  and  set  into  the 
oven  to  melt  the  cheese.  Serve  as  the 
principal  hot  dish  at  luncheon  or 
supper. 

Summer  Squash,  Fried 
Pare^young,  summer  squash  and  cut 
in  slices  less  than  half  an  inch  thick; 
season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  dip  in 
fritter  batter.  Let  fry,  in  a  frying  pan. 
in  hot  salt  pork  or  bacon  fat  or  in  deep 
fat,  as  is  most  convenient. 


■UMMER  Souash.  Fried 


140 


THE    BOSTON    COOKIXG-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Fritter   Batter 

Sift  together  three-fourths  a  cup  of 
tiour  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt; 
break  in  one  egg,  add  milk  gradually 


Gnocchis  Italiexxe 

and  beat  to  a  smooth  batter.  Use  in 
all  half  a  cup  of  milk.  Set  aside  in  a 
cool  place  until  ready  to  use. 

Gnocchis  Italienne 
Put  half  a  cup  of  milk  and  one- 
fourth  a  cup  of  butter  over  the  fire; 
when  the  milk  is  scalded,  sift  in  half  a 
cup  of  flour  and  stir  constantly  until 
the  mixture  becomes  a  smooth  mass, 
then  turn  into  a  mixing  bowl;  break  in 
one  egg,  beat  thoroughly  and,  when 
the  egg  is  smoothly  blended  with  the 
other  ingredients,  add  the  yolk  of  an 
egg  and  again  beat  the  mass  until 
smooth.     Have  a  quart  of  Avater  con- 


taining a  teaspoonful  of  salt  boiling  over 
the    lire.      Drop    the    batter    by    tea- 
spoonfuls  into  the  water  and  let  boil 
gently    for    about    ten    minutes;    then 
remove  to  a  cloth  with  a  skimmer  and 
set   in    buttered    earthen 
dishes;  pour  over  tomato 
sauce  to  cover   (about   a 
cup  and    a    half   will    be 
needed)  and  sprinkle  with 
grated    cheese.     Set     the 
dishes  in  the  oven  to  melt 
the  cheese.     Serve  as  the 
hot    dish    at     supper    or 
luncheon.      Serve    at   the 
same  time  a  green  vege- 
table salad  or  a  dish  of 
apple    sauce.     The    salad 
is     preferable.      Two     or 
three     tablespoonfuls     of 
cheese  may  be  added  to  the  mixture 
with  the  eggs. 

Spanish  Toast 

Peel  as  many  good-sized  tomatoes  as 
there  are  persons  to  be  served  and  cut 
the  tomatoes  in  pieces;  for  six  tomatoes 
add  three  green  peppers,  cut  in  thin 
rings  (discard  the  seeds)  or  chopped, 
and  a  small  onion,  peeled  and  sliced 
thin  or  chopped.  Add  also  a  table- 
spoonful  of  fine-chopped  parsley,  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  dash  of 
paprika.  Let  simmer  until  smooth  and 
rather  thick.  Have  ready  rounds  or 
squares  of  well-toasted  bread;  spread 


RoMAixE  Salad 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


141 


the  toast  with  butter,  above  set  a  Uttle)  and  stir  constantly  until  boiling; 
spoonful  of  the  cooked  tomato  and  let  boil  about  five  minutes ;  remove  from 
finish  each  sHce  with  a  carefully  the  fire,  pour  two  or  three  tablespoon- 
poached  egg.  fi^ls  on  the  well-beaten  yolks  of    two 


Boiled  Fowl.  Poulette  Sauce 


Boiled  or  Steamed  Fowl, 
Poulette  Sauce 

Have  the  fowl  (one  year)  carefully 
drawn,  singed,  cleaned  and  washed; 
truss  as  for  roasting,  rub  over  the  skin 
with  the  cut  side  of  a  lemon  (to  keep  it 
white),  then  tie  in  a  piece  of  cheese- 
cloth. Have  about  three  cups  of  water 
boiling  in  an  agate  saucepan  or  steam 
kettle ;  put  in  the  fowl  and  cover  close ; 
let  boil  vigorously  fifteen  minutes,  then 
let  simmer  until  tender.  It  will  take 
from  two  to  four  hours.  i\.dd  more 
boiling  water  if  needed,  but,  when  the 
fowl  is  cooked,  the  quantity  should  not 
exceed  one  pint.  Add  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  when  the  fowl  is  nearly 
cooked.  Set  the  fowl 
on  a  hot  dish,  while 
making  the  sauce. 
Melt  one-fourth  a  cup 
of  butter;  in  it  cook 
one-fourth  a  cup  of 
flour  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  paprika; 
add  three-fourths  a 
cup  of  cream  and  the 
pint  of  broth  (add  the 
cream  first  and  stir  a 


eggs,  mix  thoroughly  and  gradually 
stir  into  the  sauce.  Pour  the  sauce  over 
the  chicken  and  serve  at  once.  Fine- 
chopped  parsley  may  be  sprinkled  over 
the  whole.  Boiled  rice  may  be  served 
around  the  chicken  or  in  a  separate 
dish. 

Boiled    Rice 

Put  one  cup  and  a  half  of  rice  over 
the  fire  in  about  two  quarts  of  cold 
water.  Let  heat  quickly  to  the  boiling 
point,  stirring  meanwhile  to  keep  the 
rice  from  sticking  to  the  saucepan.  Let 
boil  rapidly  two  or  three  minutes, 
drain,  rinse  in  cold  water,  drain  and 
return  to  the  saucepan  with  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt   and  about  two   quarts   of 


Cauliflower  with  Aspic  Mayonnaise 


142 


THE    BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


boiling  water;  let  boil  vigorously  until 
the  grains  are  tender;  drain  the  rice, 
let  stand  at  the  oven  door  to  dry  off, 
then  turn  around  the  chicken  or  into 
a  separate  dish.  Use  the  water  in 
which  the  rice  was  cooked  for  soup. 


Simple  Apple  Charlotte 

Economical  Rice  Soup 

To  one  pint  of  liquid,  drained  from 
boiled  rice,  add  one  cup  of  tomato 
puree  and  one  cup  of  broth.  Chicken 
broth  is  the  best,  but  any  broth  will 
answer.  If  not  already  flavored,  cook 
half  an  onion  and  two  stalks  of  celery, 
cut  fine,  in  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter  until  lightly  browned;  add 
the  tomato  and  broth  and  let  simmer 
ten  minutes,  then  strain  into  the  rice. 

Romaine  Salad 

Discard  the  outer  green  leaves  and 
detach  the  others  from  the  stem.  Look 
over  the  leaves  carefully  and  wipe  with 
a  damp  cloth  if  needed,  or  if  necessary 
wash  quickly  in  cold  water  and  dry  on 
a  cloth.  Dispose  in  a  salad  bowl  and 
when  ready  to  serve  pour  on   about  a 


tablespoonful     of     dressing    for     each 
service. 

Salad   Dressing  for  Romaine 

Rub  a  soup  plate  with  a  clove  of 
garlic,  cut  in  halves;  put  in  half  a  tea- 
spoonful,  each,  of  salt,  white 
pepper,  chilli  Colorado  (mild 
Mexican  pepper)  and  curry 
powder,  a  teaspoonful  of  fine- 
chopped  parsley,  the  grated 
yellow  rind  of  half  a  small 
lemon  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
grated  onion.  Mix  together 
thoroughly;  add  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  oil  and  crush  the 
solid  ingredients  in  the  oil; 
add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
mix  again  and  strain  over  the 
This  will  serve  four  people. 


vmegar, 
romaine 


Caramel  Custard 


Cold   Cauliflower  with  Aspic 
Mayonnaise 

Cook  the  cauliflower  as  usual  in  boil- 
ing salted  water,  drain  and  chill.  Serve 
the  flowerets,  on  heart  leaves  of  lettuce 
or  endive,  around  a  mound  of  aspic- 
mayonnaise.  Decorate  with  figures 
cut  from  slices  of  pickled  beet. 

Aspic  Mayonnaise 

Make  the  mayonnaise  in  the  usual 
manner,  using  the  yolk  of  one  egg, 
one-fourth  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of 
salt,  paprika  and  mustard,  one  table- 
spoonful,  each,  of  vinegar  and  lemon 
juice  and  one  cup  of  olive  oil.  Have 
the  mayonnaise  chilled  and  a  cup  of 
aspic  jelly  of  a  syrup-like  consistency. 
Gradually  beat  the  aspic 
into  the  mayonnaise. 
When  thoroughly  chilled 
and  "set"  it  is  ready  for 
use. 

Fried  Tomatoes  with 
Cheese 

Carefully  remove  the 
skin  from  smooth,  firm 
tomatoes.  Cut  in  thick 
slices  (about  three-fourths 


SEASONABLE    RECIPES 


143 


of  an  inch  thick),  dip  each  in  crumbs, 
then  in  beaten  egg  and  again  in  sifted 
crumbs,  and  saute  in  hot  fat,  first  on 
one  side  and  then  on  the  other;  do  not 


thin  slices,  and  stir  and  cook  to  a  golden 
brown  color,  then  add  one  can  of  to- 
matoes, a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper  and  a  teaspoon- 


a 

Apricot  Bavarian  Cream 


turn  until  the  tomato  is  nicely  browned. 
After  turning  sprinkle  with  grated 
cheese. 

Green  Peppers,  Fried 

Cut  open  the  peppers,  lengthwise, 
and  remove  all  seeds  and  white  fibrous 
portions.  Cut  in  slices,  crosswise  of  the 
peppers.  Cover  with  cold  water,  adding 
a  little  salt ;  let  stand  ten  minutes ;'  wipe 
the  slices  and  let  cook  in,  two  or  more 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  melted  in  a 
frying  pan.  When  softened  and  slightly 
browned  spread  over  or  around  a 
broiled  steak  or  dish  of  chops. 

Italian  Stew 

Heat  three  tablespoonfuls  of  olive 
oil  in  a  stew  pan;  add  an  onion,  cut  in 


f ul  of  sugar ;  when  hot  add  four  potatoes, 
pared  and  cut  in  small  cubes,  parboiled, 
drained,  rinsed  in  cold  water  and" 
drained  again  and  let  simmer  until  the 
potatoes  are  tender;  add  one  can  of 
peas  (carefully  drained)  and  half  a  can 
of  small  button  mushrooms  and  let 
heat  to  the  boiling  pbint ;  add  such  ad- 
ditional seaso;»ing  as  is  needed  and 
serve  at  once. 

Simple  Apple  Charlotte 

Pare,  core  and  slice  about  fifteen 
tart,  dry  apples;  put  them  over  the 
fire  with  a  cup  of  sugar  and  a  fourth  a 
cup  of  butter,  cover  and  let  simmer, 
stirring  occasionally  until  softened, 
then  remove  the  cover  and  let  simmer 
till  quite  dry;  meantime  cut  bread  in 


Marguerites 


144 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


slices  one-fourth  an  inch  thick;  trim 
these  to  make  finger  shapes  an  inch 
wide  and  three  inches  long;  fry  these 
in  butter,  first  on  one  side  and  then  'on 
the  other  (about  twenty-four  sippets 
will  be  needed).  Set  these,  one  over- 
lapping another,  in  a  dish  of  suitable 
size  and  depth;  turn  the  apple  into  the 
center  and  finish  with  four  sippets  in 
the  center;  these  ma}^  be  pointed  at 
one  end,  brushed  over  with  white  of 
egg  and  dipped  in  fine-chopped  pista- 
chio nuts.  Serve  hot  as  a  dessert  dish 
at  luncheon  or  dinner. 


viously  sweetened.  Soften  one  table- 
spoonful  and  a  half  of  gelatine  in  one- 
third  a  cup  of  cold  water  and  dissolve 
by  setting  the  dish  of  gelatine  in  boiling 
water.  When  dissolved  stir  into  the 
apricot  mixture.  Set  the  whole  into  a 
dish  of  water  and  bits  of  ice  and  stir 
until  the  mixture  begins  to  thicken, 
then  fold  in  one  cup  and  a  half  of 
cream,  beaten  firm.  Turn  the  mixture 
into  a  mold  and,  when  chilled  and 
firm,  set  the  mold  an  instant  in  warm, 
not  hot.  water  —  the  water  should 
reach,  on   the   outside,   to    the    height 


Mrs.  Store's  Cake 


Caramel  Custard 

Cook  half  a  cup  of  sugar  to  caramel; 
add  half  a  cup  of  water  and  let  simmer 
to  a  thick,  smooth  syrup.  Beat  four 
eggs,  or,  better  still,  two  eggs  and  four 
extra  3^olks;  add  one-fourth  a  cup  of 
sugar  and  half  a  tea  spoonful  of  salt 
and  beat  again;  add  the  caramel 
syrup  and  two  cups  of  rich  milk;  mix 
all  together  thoroughly  and  turn  into 
a  mold,  thoroughly  buttered  and 
dredged  with  granulated  sugar.  Let 
bake  on  several  folds  of  paper  and 
surrounded  by  boiling  water  until 
firm  in  the  center.  Serve  cold,  turned 
from  the  mold. 

Apricot  Bavarian  Cream 

Press  enough  cooked  apricots,  flesh 
and  juice,  through  a  sieve  to  make  one 
■cup  and  a  half;  add  half  a  cup  of  sugar 
—  more  if  the  fruit  has  not  been  pre- 


of  the  cream  on  the  inside;  unmold 
on  a  flat  dish,  sprinkle  with  fine- 
chopped  pistachio  nuts  and  serve 
at  once.  The  recipe  will  serve  eight 
people. 

Marguerites 
Boil  one  cup  of  sugar  and  half  a 
cup  of  water  to  240  degrees  Fahr.  or 
until  it  will  spin  a  thread  two  inches 
in  length.  Add  five  marshmallow^s,  cut 
in  small  pieces,  and  let  stand  on  the 
back  of  the  range  a  moment,  to  melt 
the  pieces  of  marshmallow.  Pour  in  a 
fine  stream  on  the  whites  of  two  eggs, 
beaten  dry,  beating  constantly  mean- 
while. Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
cocoanut,  one  cup  of  chopped  walnut 
meats  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 
Dispose  on  choice  crackers  and  set 
into  a  moderate  oven  until  the  mixture 
is  Ughtly  colored.  Serve  in  the  place 
of  cake  or  cookies. 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


145 


Mrs.   Stoke's  Cake 

Beat  half  a  cup  of  butter  to  a  cream ; 
gradually  beat  in  one  cup  and  three- 
fourths  of  sugar;  add,  alternately,  one 
cup  of  cold  water  and  three  cups  of 
sifted  pastry  flour,  sifted  again  with 
three  slightly  rounding  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking  powder.  Lastly,  add  the  whites 
of  four  eggs,  beaten  dry,  and  beat  the 
whole  thoroughly.  Bake  in  a  shallow 
pan.  Make  a  boiled  frosting  of  one  cup 
of  sugar,  one-fourth  a  cup  of  water  and 
the  white  of  one  egg.  Tiiit  three  or 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  the  frosting  with 
an  ounce  of  melted  chocolate.  Cover 
the  bottom  of  the  cake  with  the  white 
frosting,  and  with  pastry  bag  and 
tube  with  small  round  point  form  lines 
of  the  dark  chocolate  across  the  longest 
way  of  the  cake.  At  once,  before  the 
frosting  hardens,  draw  a  silver  knife 
down  through  the  frosting,  from  the 
top  to  the  bottom,  then  turn  and 
draw  the  knife  from  the  bottom  to  the 
top  —  turn  again  and  draw  from  the 
top  to  the  bottom  —  continue  in  the 
same  way  across  the  full  length  of  the 
cake.  The  spaces  between  the  Imes 
thus  formed  should  be  about  one  inch 
and  a  half. 

Nesselrode  Parfait 
Bring  to  the  boiling-point  half  a  cup 
of  syrup  from  a  bottle  of  preserved 
chestnuts ;  pour  it  in  a  fine  stream  upon 
the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  beaten  light 
and  mixed  with  one-fourth  a  cup  of 
sugar  and  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt;  let  cook  over  hot  water  until 
thickened  slightly;  add  half  a  cup  of 
the  preserved  chestnuts,  pressed 
through  a  sieve,  six  or  eight  of  the 
chestnuts  cut  in  small  pieces  and  half 
a  cup  of  French  fruit,  cut  small,  and 
sultana  raisins.  Soak  the  fruit  and 
chestnuts  overnight  in  maraschino  or 
a  thick,  sugar  syrup.  When  the  chest- 
nut-custard mixture  is  cold  and  thick 
and  the  mold  {quart  size)  thoroughly 
chilled    and    partly    packed    in    equal 


measures  of  ice  and  salt,  fold  one  cup 
and  three-fourths  of  cream,  beaten 
solid,  into  it  and  turn  into  the  mold, 
filling  it  to  overflow.  Spread  paper  over 
the  mixture,  press  the  cover  down 
over  this  and  finish  the  packing.  Let 
stand  about  three  hours. 

Lady  Fingers 

Beat  the  whites  of  three  eggs  dry  and 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs  until  thick  and 
light-colored;  gradually  beat  one-third 
a  cup  of  powdered  sugar  and  a  few 
grains  of  salt  into  the  yolks,  fold  in  the 
whites,  then  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful 
of  vanilla  and  one-third  a  cup  of 
sifted  pastry  flour.  Shape  in  portions 
an  inch  wide  and  three  inches  long,  on 
a  paper  laid  on  a  baking  sheet;  dredge 
with  granulated  sugar.  Bake  about 
ten  minutes. 

Rocks  (Miss  Bower) 
Beat  one  cup  of  butter  to  a  cream; 
gradually  beat  in  one  cup  and  a  half 
of  granulated  sugar,  three  eggs,  beaten 
without  separating^  the  whites  and 
yolks,  then  two  cups  and  a  half  of 
sifted  flour,  sifted  again  with  one 
teaspoonful  of  soda,  one  teaspoonful 
of  cinnamon  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
cloves.  Lastly,  add  three-fourths  a 
pound  of  dates,  chopped  fine,  and 
one  pound  of  walnuts  (weighed  in 
the  shell),  broken  in  large  pieces. 
Drop  from  a  teaspoon  upon  buttered 
baking  sheets,  to  form  rounds  a  lit- 
tle distance  apart.  Bake  in  a  quick 
oven. 

White  Corn  Meal  Muffins 

Sift  together  one  cup,  each,  of  white 
flour  and  white  corn  meal,  two  rounding 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking  pOAvder,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one-fourth  a 
cup  of  sugar;  add  one  egg  (unbeaten), 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter 
and  three-fourths  a  cup  of  sweet  milk. 
Beat  all  together  vigorously.  Bake  in 
a  hot,  buttered  roll  pan  (iron)  about 
twenty-five  mnutes. 


Menus  for  a  Week  in  October 


"A  moderate  excess  of  food  is  probably  harmless,  if  not  actually  beneficial. 
sail  too  near  the  wind  in  matters  of  diet." — Hutchison. 


It  is  not  safe  to 


Breakfast 

Melons.    Corned  Beef  Hash 

Pickled  Beets.    White  Corn  Meal  Muffins 

Coffee.      Cocoa 

Dinner 

Lima  Bean  Soup 

Breaded  Mutton  Cutlets,  Cuban  Sauce 

Scalloped  Potatoes 

Kohlrabi,  Hollandaise  Sauce 

Frozen  Rice  Pudding,   Sliced  Peaches, 

Sugared.     Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Gnocchi  a  la  Romaine 

Lettuce,  French  Dressing 

Parker  House  Rolls  (reheated) 

Marguerites.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Gluten  Grits, Thin  Cream.  Broiled  Bacon 

Eggs  Fried  in  Bacon  Fat 

Parker  House  Rolls  (kept  in  refrigerator 

overnight,  baked  in  morning) 

Peach  Butter 

Dinner 

Steamed  Fowl.     Boiled  Rice 

Yellow  Sauce.     Boiled  Cauliflower 

Romaine,  French  Dressing 

Cottage  Pudding,  Peach  Hard  Sauce 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Rice  Croquettes,  Cheese  Sauce 

Sifted  Apple  Sauce 

Peanut  Cookies.      Tea 


Breakfast 

Baked  Sweet  Apples,  Thin  Cream 

Broiled  Bacon,  White  Hashed  Potatoes 

Eggs  Cooked  in  Shell 

Buttered  Toast.     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Cream-of-Kornlet  Soup 

Flank  of  Lamb,  Boiled  and  Browned  in 

Fat.     French  Fried  Potatoes 

Mayonnaise  of  Sliced  Tomatoes 

Simple  Apple  Charlotte 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Cold  Corned  Beef,  Sliced  Thin 

Potato  Salad.  HotBakingPowderBiscuit 

New  Clover  Honey.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Remnants  of  Fowl,  Creamed,  on  Toast 
Tomatoes  Fried  with  Cheese 
Doughnuts.      Coffee.      Cocoa 

Dinner 

Fore  Quarter  of  Lamb,  Steamed 

Steamed  Potatoes 

Mashed  Turnips 

Sliced  Tomatoes 

Baked  Tapioca  Custard  Pudding, 

Vanilla  Sauce 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Celery  Creamed  with  Cheese 
Baking  Powder  Biscuit 
-    Stewed  Crab  Apples.      Tea 


Breakfast 

E-C-Corn  Flakes,  Thin  Cream 

Sausage  Cakes,  Mashed  Potatoes 

Fried  Apples 

White  Corn  Meal  Muffins 

Coffee.      Cocoa 

Dinner 

Lima  Bean  Soup 

Hamburg  Steak,  Green  Peppers,  Fried 

Kohlrabi,  Creamed 

Apple  Dumplings,  Hard  Sauce 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Succotash 

Boston  Brown  Bread 

Apple  Sauce.      Cookies.      Tea 


Breakfast 

Barley  Crystals,  Thin  Cream 

Fish  Flake  Balls,  PiccaHlli 

Buttered  Toast 

Waffles,  Caramel  Syrup 

Coffee.       Cocoa 

Dinner 

Baked  Black  Bass,  Bread  Dressing 

Hollandaise  Sauce.    Mashed  Potatoes 

Tomatoes  Scalloped  with  Onions 

Apple  Pie.      Cream  Cheese 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Eggs,    Poached    in    Cream,    on    Toast 

Pickled  Beets.     Chocolate  Layer  Cake 

Tea.     Cocoa 


Breakfast 

Com^'Meal  Mush, 

Thin  Cream 

Cold  Boiled  Tongue, 

Sliced  Thin 

Baked  Potatoes,  Butter 

White  Mountain  Muffins 

Coffee.  Cocoa 


Dinner 

Lima  Bean  Soup 

Lamb  Souffle, Tomato  Sauce 

Egg  Plant,  Scalloped 

Celery 

Blushing  Apples,    Orange 

Sauce,  or  Baked  Apples 

with  Meringue 

Lemon  Queen  Cake.  Coffee 

146 


Supper 

Lettuce  and  Remnants  of 

Baked  Fish,  French 

Dressing 

Komlet  Custard  with 

Green  Peppers 

Bread  and  Butter 

Oatmeal  Macaroons. 

Tea.     Cocoa 


Menus  for  Formal  Occasions  in  October 


Lunch 


uncneons 


Cream-of-Oyster  Soup 

Chicken  Croquettes 

Egg  Plant  Scalloped  with  Tomatoes 

Mayonnaise  of  Pineapple  and  Celery 

Coffee  Parfait  in  Glasses 

Candied  Chestnuts  (Marrons  Glac6) 

Coffee 

II 

Watermelon  Cocktail 

Cream-of-Clam-and-Green-Pea  Soup 

Slices  of  Hot  Roasted  Chicken  Breast 

Potato  or  Rice  Croquettes 

Sweet  Pickled  Peaches 

Romaine,  French  Dressing 

Cream  Cheese,     Toasted  Crackers 

Ginger  Bavarian  Cream.     Coffee 


III 

Clam  Broth 

Breaded  Mutton  Cutlets, 

Cuban  Sauce 

French  Fried  Potatoes 

Cauliflower  au  Gratin 

Romaine,  French  Dressing 

Apricot  Bavarian  Cream 

Marguerites.    Coffee 

IV 

Watermelon  Cones 

Escaloped   Oysters,  Finnelli 

Olives,      Celery 

Terrine  of  Chicken  and  Ham,  Sliced  Thin 

Mayonnaise  of  Tomatoes  and  Lettuce 

Zabione,     Little  Cakes,     Coffee 


V 


Chicken  Soup  with  Meringue 

Breaded  Lamb  Chops,  Fried,  Tomato'^Sauce 

Mashed  Potatoes,  Vienna  Style 

Oyster  Salad,    Salad  Rolls 

Grape  Juice  Bombe  Glac^ 

Lemon  Queens.     Coffee 


Chafing  Dish  Suppers 


Sardine  Eclairs 

Chicken  k  la  King.     Yeast  Rolls 

Tomato  Jelly,  Macedoine  Style 

Lettuce,  French  Dressing 

Marguerites.     Cocoa  with  Whipped  Cream 

II 

Tomato  Soup  (reheated) 

Komlet  Oysters 

Bread  and  Butter  Sandwiches 

Olives.     Pickles 

Pineapple-and-Tapioca  Sponge.     Tea 


III 


Hot  Cheese  Sandwiches 

Olives 
Vanilla  Ice  Cream  with 
Maple  Syrup  and  Chopped  Nuts 
Chocolate  Cake 

IV 

Oyster  Rabbit  on  Toast 

Chicken-and-Celery  Salad 

Fruit  Cup 


Hallowe*en  Supper 

Nut-and-Cabbage  Salad  in  Cabbage  Baskets 

Boston  Brown  Bread  and  Butter  Sandwiches 

Yeast  Doughnuts,  Sugared.    Coffee 

Pop  Corn  Balls.     Apples 


Evening  Weddings 


Scalloped  Oysters  in  Shells 

Hot  Biscuit 

Olives.     Salted  Nuts 

Chicken-and-Celery  Salad 

Coffee.     Bride's  Cake 

Whipped  Cream  in  Meringue  Shells 


II 


Creamed  Oysters  in  Timbale  Cases 

Olives.     Tiny  Gherkins 

Celery,  Chicken  and  Nut  Salad 

Bread  and  Butter  Sandwiches 

Coupe  Bartholdi 

Wedding  Cake  in  Boxes 


147 


After  Breakfast  Chat 


By  Janet  M.  Hill 

** Practice  makes  toward  perfection'' 


THE  following  contribution,  by 
Mrs.  Lillian  Cox  Athey,  seems 
eminently  worthy  of  emphasis. 
It  is  hoped  that  it  will  be  given  more 
than  one  reading  and  be  followed,  on  the 
part  of  our  subscribers,  by  a  constant 
application  of  the  principles  enumer- 
ated. In  this  connection  another 
thought  comes  to  us:  Young  people  can- 
not begin  too  early  in  life  to  familiarize 
themselves  with  the  products  used  in 
the  preparation  of  food.  Each  child 
should  have  an  intimate  acquaintance 
with  the  substances  that  are  building 
up  his  body.  It  is  true  that  one  who  has 
never  entered  a  kitchen  may  learn  con- 
siderable of  the  science  of  food  and 
cookery  in  a  school  course  of  a  year  or 
even  six  months,  but  such  a  course  is 
of  infinitely  more  value  to  one  who  is 
conversant  somewhat  with  the  products 
used  and  with  their  manipulation.  To 
the  absolute  novice  many  valuable 
points  are  lost  entirely,  because  the 
mind  is  receptive  of  only  just  about  so 
much  at  one  time. 

In  classes  of  cookery  where  the  pupils 
are  adults,  it  does  not  take  a  keen  eye 
to  detect  those  pupils  who  have  passed 
their  life  away  from  the  sight  of  culi- 
nary operations  and  with  no  certain 
knowledge  of* foodstuffs.  Such  pupils 
do  not  handle  utensils  with  ease,  and  are 
apt  to  bum  themselves  at  the  range ;  they 
cannot,  without  undue  exertion,  keep 
supplies  from  the  floor,  and  the  table 
in  a  neat  condition;  in  fact,  they  labor 
at  a  disadvantage,  at  every  step.  The 
girl  who  wishes  to  make  a  pronounced 
success  as  a  cooking  teacher  cannot 
think  of  doing  it  by  shirldng  the  actual 
cooking.  Work  in  a  chemical  labora- 
tory and  a  course  in  psychology,  with 
the  theory  and  art  of  teaching,  are  de- 
manded; but  these  alone  will  not  en- 


able one  to  produce  a  light,  tender 
omelet  or  a  good  loaf  of  bread.  It  is 
said  that  there  must  be  a  line  of  several 
generations  of  doctors  before  a  really 
good  doctor  can  be  turned  out.  It  is 
equally  true  of  cooks  and  cooking 
teachers.  Time  is  a  factor  in  both 
cases.  Let  us  who  are.  parents  see  to 
it  that  the  young  people  in  our  homes 
spend  some  time  each  week,  at  least, 
in  the  kitchen.  Even  "fudge"  may 
have  its  uses,  if  it  prove  the  entering 
wedge  to  interest  in  the  concerns  of 
the  kitchen. 

Success  or  Failure  with  Recipes 

One  of  the  most  common  experiences 
of  authors  and  instructors  in  domestic 
science  is  encountering  the  difficulty 
which  pupils  and  a  very  large  number 
of  the  reading  public  experience  in 
reading  and  interpreting  recipes.  Many 
of  our  leading  authorities  are  fre- 
quently and  unjustly  criticised  by 
reason  of  failures  solely  due  to  this 
cause. 

Not  infrequently  students,  especially 
those  in  boarding  seminaries,  being 
without  facilities  for  putting  into  im- 
mediate practice  the  work  in  which  they 
have  been  instructed,  upon  their  re- 
turn from  the  vacation  season  spent 
at  home,  report  experiences  which, 
upon  investigation,  prove  to  be  due 
simply  to  failure  to  follow  directions. 
Indeed  it  may  be  said  that  practically 
the,  only  failures  thus  encountered  are 
those  which  occur  by  failure  to  read 
recipes  carefully  before  beginning  to 
work.  They  seem  to  have  the  idea 
that,  because  they  have  worked  out 
the  recipe  successfully  in  the  scljool 
laboratory,  they  can  do  so  without 
giving  much  attention  to  the  cook- 
book.    The  result  is  failure,  of  course, 


148 


SUCCESS  OR  FAILURE  WITH  RECIPES 


i4g 


and  the  student  not  infrequently  loses 
much  good  that  otherwise  would  ac- 
crue to  herself  by  placing  the  responsi- 
bility upon  the  instructor,  or  even 
upon  the  author  of  the  cookbook 
"used,"  disregarding  the  years  of  ex- 
periencJe  and  justly  deserved  eminence 
of  either  or  both. 

Meeting  with  an  instance,  the  in- 
structor inquires  as  to  a  certain  in- 
gredient or  process,  only  to  be  told, 
usually  with  a  surprised  expression, 
that  it  was  omitted,  though  the  student 
"thinks"  she  has  read  the  recipe  care- 
fully. By  going  over  it  again  it  de- 
velops that  the  student  did  not  have  a 
certain  ingredient  in  the  house,  so  she 
used  something  else  as  a  substitute, 
arbitrarily.  One  student  "did  not 
like  the  taste  of  soda,"  so  she  "used 
baking  powder  instead"!  And  again 
"it  did  not  sound  right"!  Possibly 
the  ingredients  were  combined  cor- 
rectly, but  the  oven  was  not  at  proper 
temperature,  and  the  student  "thought 
it  was  all  right"  but  made  no  test,  and 
being  unprovided  with  an  oven  ther- 
mometer proceeded  upon  supposition 
of  such  character  as  amounted  merely 
to  "trusting  to  luck.  " 

A  good  rule  for  students  and  for 
others  as  well,  particularly  when  en- 
gaged upon  some  new  recipe,  is  to 
read  the  directions  over  carefully  at 
least  twice,  during  the  second  reading 
giving  attention  especially  to  quantities 
of  ingredients  to  be  used;  then  begin 
with  the  first  ingredient  and  measure 
each  one  off  carefully  before  starting 
to  put  them  together.  Next  go  over 
the  recipe  and  check  each  article  by 
placing  it  at  one  side  as  the  reading 
progresses.  Then  set  them  in  the 
order  they  are  to.  go  together;  get  the 
utensils  ready,  also  the  oven  if  to  be 
used,  then  begin  to  do  the  mixing.  By 
following  a  recipe  thus  explicitly,  each 
time  it  is  used,  until  correct  results 
regularly  accompany  its  employment 
it  will  soon  become  an  acquisition ;  and 
with   such  knowledge   as   a  basis   one 


with  experience  will  be  able  to  indulge 
in  variations  if  desired  or  desirable. 
Beginners,  however,  should  not  deviate 
from  the  directions. 

Of  course,  it  is  those  who  know  the 
least  about  the  art  who  seem  to  be  the 
most  sure  that  the  author  is  at  fault, 
or  that  her  way  is  not  so  good  as  that 
of  the  reader's  ancestors  or  relatives 
who  had  "raised"  large  families,  so 
they  proceed  in  their  own  way,  and 
then  wonder  why  the  "recipe  fails," 
when  in  reality  it  was  not  the  recipe 
that  failed  at  all.  If  the  student  were 
to  study  the  introductory  portions  of 
the  cookbook,  thereby  getting  ac- 
quainted with  and  acquiring  confidence 
in  the  author,  many  unsatisfactory 
experiences  would  be  avoided. 

It  is  of  the  utmost  importance  to 
understand  the  "terminology"  of  the 
profession.  Thus  many  do  not  know 
what  the  term  "boiling"  means,  and, 
likewise,  do  not  know  the  difference 
between  "sauteing"  and  "frying,"  and 
for  such  reasons  do  not  properly  in- 
terpret the  authors,  who  are  under 
the  necessity  of  using  all  terms  accord- 
ing to  their  exact  meanings;  guessing 
or  approximating  is  not  practised  by 
reputable  writers  or  instructors.  To 
illustrate:  "a  thin  batter,"  one  that 
pours  from  the  spoon ;  "  a  thick  batter, ' ' 
one  that  drops  from  the  spoon;  "a 
stiff  batter,"  one  that  may  be  rolled 
and  shaped  lightly.  Yet  how  fre- 
quently are  such  expressions  loosely 
interpreted ! 

Always  give  the  author  or  instructor 
credit  for  knowing  more  about  the 
'science  than  yourself  and,  when  you 
are  practising,  follow  instructions  "with 
fear  and  trembling,"  and  with  a  little 
patience  you  may  soon  become  an 
expert  in  reading  recipes  correctly. 
Study  your  science  as  does  the  doctor 
or  the  lawyer.  It  is  second  to  none  in 
importance,  and  successful  achieve- 
ment therein  is  attended  by  a  degree 
of  satisfaction,  comfort  and  pleasure 
fully  equal  to  that  of  any  other  vocation. 


Lessons  in  Elementary  Cooking 

By  Mary  Chandler  Jones 

Teacher  of  Cookery  in  the  PubHc  Schools  of  Brookline,  Mass. 

LESSON   V 


'ggs 


IN  our  study  of  the  food  principles 
as  seen  in  milk,  we  saw  a  substance 
which  we  called  the  "muscle- 
building"  food,  or  proteid.  We  saw 
it  as  the  thin  skin  which  formed  when 
the  milk  was  scalded  and  also  as  the 
curd  which  separated  from  the  whey 
when  the  milk  soured  or  was  treated 
with  junket  tablet.  In  this  lesson  we 
shall  study  proteid  from  another  source. 
Notice  how  it  behaves  under  different 
conditions  and  w^hat  is  the  best  temper- 
ature for  cooking  it.  We  shall  use  the 
type  of  albumin  found  in  the  white  of 
egg,  since  that  is  most  pure  and  free 
from  other  food  principles. 

The  eggs  of  many  kinds  of  birds  are 
used  for  food  in  different  countries  and 
are  similar  in  composition.  We  are 
most  familiar  with  the  eggs  of  the  do- 
mestic hen. 

Examine  the  egg  carefully.  Observe 
first  the  shell  and  notice  that  it  is 
brittle  and  porous.  (Let  the  pupils 
consider  the  effect  of  this  porousness 
upon  the  keeping  of  the  egg.)  Break 
the  egg  very  carefully,  and  separate  the 
white  and  yolk,  without  breaking  the 
latter.  Within  the  shell  we  find  a  thin 
skin  which  protects  the  contents  of  the 
egg  from  too  rapid  evaporation  through 
the  pores  of  the  shell.  (Examine  this 
skin  and  see  how  paper-like  it  becomes 
when  dry.) 

Within  this  lining  of  the  shell  we 
find  a  thick,  sticky,  transparent,  slightly 
yellowish  liquid,  called  albumin  or  the 
white  of  the  egg.  The  word  *  *  albumin ' ' 
comes  from  the  Latin  adjective  albus, 
which  means  white.     The  uncooked  al- 


bumin seems  not  to  deserve  its  name» 
but  when  it  is  cooked  or  beaten  the 
color  changes. 

Floating  in  this  white  of  the  egg  we 
find  a  yellow  ball  called  the  yolk,  cov- 
ered, in  its  turn,  by  a  very  delicate 
membrane,  which  prevents  the  white 
and  yolk  from  mixing.  The  yolk  is 
further  protected  by  two  elastic  cords 
which  hold  it  suspended  in  the  shell 
and  keep  it  from  falling  to  either  end 
and  so  being  broken.  The  egg  spoils 
very  quickly  after  the  white  and  yolk 
are  in  any  way  mixed,  so  that  these 
provisions  are  necessary. 

Let  us  try  some  simple  experiments 
with  the  white  of  egg,  to  see  how  albu- 
min will  behave  under  various  condi- 
tions. (The  white  of  egg  must  be 
slightly  beaten  or  cut  through  and 
through  with  scissors  to  make  it  pos- 
sible to  divide  it  by  spoonfuls.  Do 
not  make  it  very  frothy. 

Experiments 

I.  Put  one  teaspoonful  of  white  of 
egg  into  one-half  a  cup  of  cold  water. 
Stir  and  let  stand.  Notice  the  little 
bluish-white  sacs  in  which  the  albumin 
was  contained.  These  are  called  al- 
buminin. 

IL  Strain  out  the  albuminin 
through  filter  paper  or  several  thiclc- 
nesses  of  cheese  cloth  and  notice  the 
clear  liquid  obtained.  (Let  the  pupils 
see  that  if  any  substance  is  present  in 
the  water  it  must  be  in  a  state  of  solu- 
tion.) 

in.  Drop  a  Httle  of  the  sUghtly 
beaten,  undissolved  albumin  into  hot 


150 


LESSONS  IN  ELEMENTARY  COOKING 


151 


water  and  let  the  water  come  to  a  boil. 
Notice  the  hardening  and  whitening  of 
the  albumin,  at  first,  and  the  toughen- 
ing as  the  boiling  continues.  (Let  the 
pupils  compare  the  consistency  of  the 
white  of  a  fried  egg.) 

IV.  Heat  the  solution  obtained  in 
experiment  II  over  hot,  not  boiling, 
water.  Notice  the  gradual  whitening 
and  thickening  of  the  water.  What 
is  present? 

V.  Put  an  unbroken  egg  into  water 
which  is  just  below  the  boiling  point 
and  let  it  remain  at  that  temperature 
for  thirty  minutes.  (Notice  the  bubbles 
in  the  water  all  about  the  bottom  and 
sides  of  the  pan  and  on  the  egg.)  Take 
out  the  egg  and  remove  the  shell,  then 
cut  it  into  halves.  Observe  the  firm, 
jelly-like  condition  of  the  white  and 
the  powdery  dryness  of  the  yolk. 

VI.  Cook  an  egg  ten  minutes  in  boil- 
ing water;  proceed  as  in  experiment 
V,  and  compare  the  conditions  found. 
Which  is  the  better  temperature  for 
cooking  an  egg  hard  in  water? 

From  these  experiments  we  see  that 
the  amount  of  heat  required  to  cook 
albumin  is  not  great.  We  also  find 
that  too  high  a  temperature  or  too 
long  continued  heat  makes  the  al- 
bumin tough,  hard  and  indigestible. 
(Let  the  pupils  suggest  different  ways 
in  which  the  low  heat  may  be  main- 
tained during  the  process  of  cooking.) 
Why  is  milk  cooked  in  the  double 
boiler  instead  of  being  boiled? 

A  very  good  idea  of  the  cooking  of 
albumin  may  be  seen  in  watching  a 
dropped  egg  in  the  process  of  prepara- 
tion. 

Dropped  Egg 

Butter  the  inside  of  a  small  omelet 
pan  and  a  muffin  ring.  Put  the  muffin 
ring  into  the  pan  and  pour  one  cup  of 
water  into  the  pan.  Add  one-fourth 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  when  the 
water  is  just  below  the  boiling  point 
pour  the  egg  (carefully  broken  into  a 
cup)  into  the  muffin  ring.     The  yolk 


must  be  whole  and  the  water  must  not 
boil.  As  the  white  begins  to  stiffen  a 
little,  pour  a  little  of  the  hot  water 
gently  over  the  egg,  taking  care  not  to 
break  the  film  of  albumin  which  is  over 
the  yolk.  When  the  egg  is  jelly-like 
and  evenly  cooked,  gently  lift  it  from 
the  water  with  a  broad-bladed,  flexible 
knife  or  a  skimmer,  remove  the  muffin 
ring,  and  serve  the  egg,  hot,  on  buttered 
toast. 


Creamy  Egg 


1  ^gg 

^  a  cup  of  milk 
1     teaspoonful 
butter 


of 


i    a    teaspoonful 

salt 
Speck  of  pepper 


of 


Scald  the  milk.  Beat  the  egg  slightly 
with  a  fork.  Add  to  it  the  salt  and 
pepper  and  pour  over  the  scalded  milk. 
Return  the  whole  to  the  double  boiler 
and  let  cook  gently,  with  constant 
stirring,  until  it  is  thickened  and 
creamy,  but  not  lumpy.  Add  the 
butter  and  serve,  hot,  on  buttered  toast. 

Precautions 

1.  Do  not  let  the  water  boil  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  double  boiler  after 
the  egg  is  put  with  the  milk.  (Why 
not?) 

2.  Do  not  cook  the  creamy  egg  too 
long. 

3.  If  the  egg  curdles,  remove  at 
once  from  the  heat  and  beat  with  the 
egg-beater. 

Soft  Custard 


1  whole  egg   or   the 
yolks  of  2 

2  tablespoonfuls    of 
sugar 


Speck  of  salt 
1  cup  of  milk 
^    a    teaspoonful    of 
vanilla 


Compare  these  ingredients  with  those 
of  the  creamy  egg  recipe  and  let  the 
pupils  make  up  their  own  method  of 
combination.  The  same  precautions 
must  be  observed.  Why?  The  yolks 
make  a  smoother  custard  than  the  whole 
egg-  What  may  be  done  with  the  whites? 

A  simple  test  for  fresh  eggs  is  to 
place  them  in  cold  water  enough  to 
cover  them  and  see  whether  they  remain 


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THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


under  water  or  not.  If  they  lie  flat  on 
the  bottom,  they  are  very  fresh.  If 
they  stand  on  the  pointed  end,  with  the 
larger  end  uppermost,  but  all  under 
water,  they  are  also  fresh.  If  they  rise 
to  the  surface  of  the  water,  they  may 
still  be  fresh  enough  for  many  purposes. 
An  egg  that  floats,  however,  is  old 
and  stale. 

Eggs  should  be  kept  in  a  cool,  clean 
place.  It  is  well  to  form  the  habit  of 
washing    them    before    putting    them 


away,  when  they  are  first  brought  into 
the  house.  The  very  clean  shells,  on 
account  of  the  albumin  that  clings 
to  the  inside,  may  be  used  to  clear 
coffee. 

In  general,  we  may  see  from  this 
lesson  that  albumin  is  dissolved  in 
cold  water,  becomes  firm  and  white 
with  cooking,  and  toughens  with  too 
much  heat.  When  we  study  the  al- 
bumins of  fish,  meat  or  cheese,  we  shall 
see  that  they  behave  in  a  similar  way. 


The  Dove  and  the  Eagle 

A  Fable 
By  Alice  C.  Hyde 


THE  dove  was  in  need  of  advice, 
so  she  went  to  the  eagle  and 
poured  out  to  him  her  perplexi- 
ties. Generally  speaking,  the  eagle 
was  not  a  very  good  listener;  if  there 
was  any  talking  to  be  done,  he  pre- 
ferred to  do  it  himself,  but  he  received 
Mrs.  Dove  with  a  manner  sufficiently 
warm. 

"She's  a  pleasant  little  body,"  he 
said  to  himself,  "and  not  bad  looking. 
I  wonder  what  she  wants. " 

Mrs.  Dove  fluttered  down  to  the 
branch  where  the  eagle  was  sitting  and 
indulged  in  a  little  preamble  before 
stating  the  reason  of  her  visit.    . 

"I've  had  such  a  time  getting  here, 
Mr.  Eagle,"  she  began.  "It's  hard, 
you  know,  for  a  married  woman  to 
settle  the  household  affairs  for  the  day 
and  get  started  at  any  hour  in  the 
morning,  but  I  felt  that  I  must  see 
you." 

"Ah!"  the  eagle  let  his  keen  glance 
rest  on  her  a  minute,  but  he  made  no 
further  answer. 

"Give  her  time! "  he  mentally  ejacu- 
lated. 

"It's  about  my  dear  children.  " 

"Anything  the  matter  with  them?" 


"No,  but  I'm  so  afraid  there  will 
be." 

"Have  many?" 

"Yes,  I've  six". 

"Large  families  are  large  responsi- 
bilities!" said  the  eagle  sententiously ; 
"six  is  more  than  I  want. " 

"It  is  a  large  family,  and  such  a 
great  care,"  and  Mrs.  Dove  ruffled  her 
pretty  feathers  and  sighed.  "It's  your 
advice  that  I  want  about  bringing 
them  up. " 

"You  flatter  me,  madam.  " 

"I've  decided  only  to  have  the  very 
best." 

"Anything  that  I  can  do  for  you?" 

"It's  about  their  diet,  so  much  de- 
pends nowadays  on  diet,  don't  you 
think?" 

"A  very  great  deal.  " 

"I'm  sure  the  papers  are  full  of 
nothing  else,  —  when  I  have  time  to 
read  them,  —  and,  then,  at  our  club, 
I've  been  a  club  member  now  for  three 
months.  I  wish  you  could  come  some 
Wednesday  afternoon  and  talk  to  us." 

"Thank  you." 

"But  that  wasn't  what  I  came  for, 
it  was  just  about  my  own  children.  Of 
course   I   didn't  know,   until   I   joined 


ALL  L\  ALL 


53 


the  club,  how  old-fashioned  my  ways 
were.  Association  with  one's  superiors 
helps  so  rhuch.  Aren't  3^ou,  pardon 
me,  don't  you  ever  get  lonely?" 

The  eagle's  glance  swept  the  horizon. 
"Xo." 

"But  then  you  have  resources;  they 
sa}^  that  people  with  resources  never 
are  lonely." 

"Really,  madam,  was  there  any 
special  reason  — " 

"A  ver}^  special  reason.  It's  about 
the  children's  diet.  I've  read  so  much 
and  listened "  to  so  many  lectures  on 
the  subject  that  I  don't  know  what  to 
do.  Of  course,  I  want  them  to  grow 
up  right.  And  boys  are  such  a  problem. 
^[t.  Dove  and  I  were  both  brought  up 
vegetarians,  but  we  want  our  children 
to  profxt  b}'  the  opportunities  that  we 
never  had  w^hen  we  were  young.  What 
do  you  think  of  meat  for  a  growing 
family  ? ' ' 

"The  only  thing  I  ever  fed  my  son 
on. " 

"Thank  you  so  much,  that's  just 
what  I  wanted  to  know.  And  often, 
did  you  give  it  to  him  often?" 

"As  often  as  I  could  get  it." 

"x\nd  not  well  done?" 

"No,  raw." 

"Thank   vou   so   much,   it's   so   im- 


portant to  be  exact  in  this  scientific 
age.  I  hope  that  I  haven't  bothered 
you. " 

"Not  at  all." 

"You  see  my  husband  and  I  talked 
it  over,  and  we  said  if  our  children 
could  only  be  a  little  more  like  eagles. 
Good  morning. " 

"Good  morning." 

And  Mrs.  Dove  returned  to  her 
brood. 

Mr.  Dove  foresaw  difficulty  in  pro- 
curing raw  meat  for  their  babes,  and 
murmured  much  about  the  increased 
cost  of  living,  but  his  wife  tactfully 
soothed  him  by  saying,  "My  dear, 
think,  with  the  ability  of  eagles  and 
the  manners  of  doves,  how  remark- 
able our  children  will  be,  some  day, 
even  if  it  is  a  little  more  w^ork  just  at 
first!" 

So  Mr.  Dove  strove  manfully,  and 
aided  by  the  opportune  appearance  of 
a  butcher's  cart  managed  to  get  the 
raw  meat  so  essential  to  the  bringing 
up  of  his  children.  But,  sad  to  relate, 
the  result  was  not  that  desired  by  their 
fond  mother,  for  on  eating  this  food 
her  babes  became,  not  eaglets,  but  very 
sick  Httle  doves. 

Moral.  Don't  take  ever}^body's 
advice  on  diet. 


All  in  All 

Every  atom  gives  resistance  not  the  universe  can  break; 
Each  rose-petal  holds  perfection  angel  artists  could  not  make. 

As  each  white  wave  feels  the  motion  of  the  moon-led  tidal  main, 
Plato  and  the  seven  sages  shine  in  every  human  brain. 

Each  true  prayer  foretastes  the  glory  saints  and  prophets  bum  to  teach; 
In  my  brother's  heart  enfolded  lies  the  kingdom  Christ  would  reach. 


Under  every  power  and  passion  stirs  the  element  divine: 
If  I  grasp  the  moment's  meaning,  all  eternity  is  mine. 


—  Theodore  C.  Williams,  "Poems  of  Belief" 
{Houghton  Mifflin  Company). 


HOME  IDEAS 

AND 

ECONOMIES 


Contributions  to  this  department  will  be  gladly  received, 
paid  for  at  reasonable  rates. 


Accepted  items  will  be 


My  Method 

I  HEAR  so  many  woeful  complaints 
of  the  cost  of  living,  the  worry  of 
planning  meals,  and  the  hard  task  of 
preparing  them,  that  I  am  giving  my 
own  method,  which  may  be  of  assist- 
ance to  some  perplexed  housewife. 
We  are  three  adults,  so  we  manage 
easier  than  if  there  were  little  ones  to 
cater  for.  Our  tastes  differ,  so  one  has 
what  is  most  relished,  and  the  others 
the  same;  that  is,  we  do  not  prepare 
sufficient  for  three  of  any  food  that  but 
one  is  fond  of.  My  husband  has  bacon, 
potatoes,  an  egg,  bread,  butter  and 
jelly,  or  jam,  with  a  cereal  and  milk, 
and  coffee  for  his  breakfast;  while  my 
mother  and  I  care  for  only  the  cereal, 
bread  with  butter,  and  coffee.  For 
lunch  we  have  a  salad,  or  eggs  in  some 
form,  fruit,  bread  and  butter,  perhaps 
cake  or  cookies,  and  usually  water.  If 
we  feel  a  desire  for  tea  or  coffee  we  use 
it.  At  dinner  we  have  a  little  meat, 
fish  or  a  salad,  potatoes,  a  relish,  bread 
and  butter,  coffee  for  two  and  milk  for 
one;  either  pie,  a  pudding  or  often  ice 
cream.  This  is  during  the  spring, 
summer  and  autumn.  In  winter  we, 
of  course,  haven't  so  many  green  vege- 
tables or  fresh  fruit.  One  pie  is  suffi- 
cient for  dessert,  leaving  a  slice  for  my 
husband's  lunch  (this  he  carries  with 
him).  Often  there  is  plenty  of  salad 
to  allow  a  glass  of  it  in  the  lunch 
basket,  the  extra  slice  of  cake  and  so  on. 
We  live  very  simply,  but  everything 
is   fresh    and   well    seasoned;   the    hot 


food  is  hot,  and  the  cold  is  cold.  We 
never  use  potatoes  at  the  same  meal 
we  have  macaroni,  spaghetti  or  beans, 
nor  do  we  use  a  great  deal  of  meat 
with  these.  When  one  has  rice  he 
does  not  need  potatoes  or  any  starchy 
food.  With  a  few  lamb  chops,  or  a 
steak,  fried  or  broiled,  mashed  or 
baked  potatoes  with  young  onions  and 
tomatoes  are  nice,  and  a  tapioca  pud- 
ding or  a  bowl  of  fresh  peaches  and 
cream  is  sufficient.  Our  dinner  today 
is  not  at  all  elaborate,  yet  we  find  such 
meals  healthful  and  satisfying,  and  it 
is  a  fair  sample  of  our  average  dinner. 

Cold  Sliced  Tongue 

Potato  Chips  Cucumber  Salad 

Green  Com 

Cornstarch  Pudding  with  Cream 

Coffee  Milk 

Rye  Bread  Butter 

Tomorrow's  Menu 
Broiled  Steak  Green  Chilli 

Mashed  Potatoes 
White  Bread  Butter 

Devil's  Food  Ice  Cream 

Coffee  Milk 

We  seldom  bake  potatoes  during  the 
warmer  months,  as  other  styles  are 
as  "eatable"  and  need  less  fire.  When 
we  bake  bread,  cake  is  baked,  also  a 
pie  and  some  cookies,  thus  the  baking 
is  done  for  the  greater  part  of  a  week. 
With  this  fire  we  also  have  a  pot  roast, 
and  prepare  macaroni  (which  is  used 
cold  next  day) .  If  one  plans  a  little  and 
has  a  family  who  are  reasonable  human 
beings,  in  place  of  fault-finding  nui- 
sances, housekeeping  is  not  such  a 
problem    after    all.      Our   bill    for  the 


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HOME  IDEAS  AND  ECONOMIES 


155 


month,  groceries,  meat  and  milk, 
seldom  exceeds  twenty-five  dollars,  — 
not  a  great  deal  for  a  family  of  three, 
considering  we  have  fresh  fruits,  ice 
cream,  pudding,  pies,  cakes  and  the 
little  "extras"  that  so  many  seem  to 
think  they  cannot  afford.  I  am  not 
at  all  fond  of  cooking  nor  of  house- 
work, but  for  the  present  I  must  do  it, 
so  as  it  must  be  done  it  may  as  well  be 
rightly  done ;  and  the  work  is  no  harder 
when  a  little  planning  is  done  and 
relishable  food  is  prepared  than  if  I 
slopped  along  "hit  and  miss,"  mostly 
miss,  with  nothing  to  show  for  the 
labor.  E.  c.  l. 

*  ** 

A  Dainty  Gift  for  a  Bride. 

A  BEAUTIFUL  gift  for  a  bride 
from  a  number  of  her  girl  friends 
is  a  bed  cover  made  of  sheer  linen 
handkerchiefs  put  together  with  nar- 
row insertion.  One  handkerchief  is 
contributed  by  each  girl,  and  a  jolly 
afternoon  is  spent  in  whipping  them 
together. 

Of  course  the  handkerchiefs  must  be 
of  uniform  size  with  plain  edges,  and 
each  should  contain  the  first  initial  of 
the  giver.  Twenty  of  these  will  be 
required  to  make  the  spread. 

If  there  are  but  three  or  four  intimate 
friends  who  want  to  do  this,  they  may 
make  a  beautiful  dresser  scarf  in  the 
same  way,  finishing  it  with  a  frill  of 
lace.  L.  M.  c. 


An  Expedition  to  Holland 

"In  the  deep  where  Holland  lies." 

—  Goldsmith. 

A  SMALL  party  were  informally  en- 
tertained as  follows:  The  invita- 
tions were  sent  on  Dutch  picture 
postals.  The  hostess  appeared  as  a 
merry  fishwife  from  Holland.  Each 
guest  was  given  a  large  white  card  at 
the  top  of  which  w^as  a  small  water- 
color  Delft  scene,  and  an  envelope 
•containing  cut-up  pieces  of  the  Dutch 


advertising  figures  found  in  magazines. 
Scattered  about  on  the  tables  were  paste 
pots,  and  everybody  "got  busy"  to 
arrange  the  picture  puzzles  upon  the 
cards  in  the  shortest  possible  time. 

After  these  were  completed,  each 
guest  was  then  given  a  market  basket 
containing  a  plaid  crash  napkin,  blue 
plate,  etc.,  and  went  to  the  dining- 
room,  where  they  found  on  the  table, 
frankfurters,  sliced  Bologna  sausage, 
Schweitzer,  sauer  kraut,  rye  bread  and 
pretzels.  Each  one  helped  herself  and 
ate  where  she  pleased.  Hot  cocoa, 
with  marshmallows  floating  on  top, 
was  served  in  steins.  The  centerpiece 
was  a  large  cabbage  head  with  the 
leaves  carefully  pulled  apart,  the  heart 
removed  and  a  gourd  inserted,  on 
which  was  painted  a  face. 

After  the  lunch  the  hunt  began  for 
things  hidden  throughout  the  rooms. 
A  "bulletin  board"  announced  that  a 
small  canal  picture  counted  1,  a  toy 
windmill  5,  a  wooden  shoe  10,  a  can  of 
cocoa  25  (the  small  advertising  cans 
were  used),  a  tulip  bulb  50,  picture  of 
Queen  Wilhelmina  100,  and  a  Dutch 
pipe  50  off.  There  were  several  of 
each,  excepting  the  picture  of  the 
queen  and  the  pipe;  of  each  of  these 
there  was  but  one.  It  was  very  funny 
to  see  the  earnest  search  for  the  picture, 
with  the  fear  of  finding  the  pipe. 

The  one  whose  points  amounted  to 
the  most,  and  the  one  who  first  com- 
pleted her  picture  puzzle,  each  received 
a  potted  tulip  as  prize;  the  two  con- 
solation prizes  were  cans  of  Old 
Dutch  Cleanser.  l.  r.  t. 


*  *  * 


Preserved  Pears 

THE  usual  way  of  preparing  pears 
for  canning,  by  cooking  them  in  a 
syrup,  has  never  been  very  satisfactory 
to  me,  as  they  are  insipid  even  with  the 
addition  of  lemon  or  ginger;  but  last 
year  I  learned  a  new  method,  which 
made  so  delicious  a  preserve  that  I 
shall  never  go  back  to  the  old  way.     I 


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THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


peeled  and  quartered  the  fruit  in  the 
usual  manner,  placed  it  in  an  earthen 
jar  after  measuring  it  and  covered  it 
T\'ith  half  as  much  sugar  as  there  was 
fruit.  I  let  it  stand  overnight,  then 
cooked  it  in  its  own  juice,  slowly,  for 
about  three  hours.  A  few  slices  of 
lemon  may  be  added  when  filling  the 
jars  if  desired.  I  passed  on  my  dis- 
covery to  various  neighbors  and  friends, 
all  of  whom  were  enthusiastic  over  it. 

E.  R.  S. 


Preparing  for  Winter 

ONE  way  in  which  I  have  been  able 
to  save  a  great  deal  in  the  house- 
hold expenses  is  by  purchasing  a  quan- 
tity of  provisions  in  the  fall  for  winter 
use. 

Early  in  the  autumn  I  arrange  with 
some  reliable  farmer,  or  farmers,  for 
such  things  as  I  desire,  to  be  delivered 
at  some  designated  time. 

In  September,  I  get  eggs  for  winter 
use,  and  have  experienced  no  trouble  in 
keeping  them  until  prices  come  down  in 
the  spring.  In  October,  I  Hke  to  have 
the  butter  packed  in  rather  small  jars 
and  well  covered  with  a  layer  of  salt; 
this  also  keeps  well,  and  is  a  great 
saving  during  the  period  of  high  prices 
in  winter. 

When  the  steady  cold  weather  has 
settled  in,  we  have  a  fresh  dressed  pig 
brought  to  us.  My  husband  has  learned 
how  to  cut  this,  and  I  spend  a  busy  day 
cutting  and  trying  out  the  lard"  and 
cutting  the  sausage  meat  into  strips. 
We  then  make  our  sausage  after  a 
tested  and  favorite  recipe,  and  place 
the  hams  and  shoulders  in  a  pickle  for 
spring  smoking.  For  this  smoking  we 
have  an  arrangement  made  of  packing 
boxes  that  works  admirably.  For  very 
Httle  labor  we  have  a  quantity  of  lard 
and  meat,  which  never  costs  us  over  an 
average  of  ten  cents  per  pound,  and 
very  seldom  over  eight  cents,  which 
suits  us  as  no  purchased  article  can. 

Later  in  the  winter,  when  the  fresh 


pork  is  eaten,  we  have  a  quarter  of  beef 
costing  from  six  to  eight  cents  per 
pound.  For  keeping  the  fresh  meat  we 
have  a  strong  wooden  box  placed_in  a 
cool  comer  of  the  back  porch. 

If  there  is  more  meat  than  we  require, 
I  can  it,  and  find  this  a  great  conven- 
ience in  summer  for  hasty  meals  or 
picnics. 

The  first  year  I  bought  winter  sup- 
plies in  quantity  I  had  some  difficulty 
in  judging  the  amount  required,  but  a 
little  experience  has  shown  what  we  can 
consume  without  waste. 

Neat  table  holders  are  made  of  coarse 
white  linen  in  the  form  of  an  envelope, 
the  flap  fastened  with  a  small  dress  snap. 
Inside  is  slipped  a  piece  of  asbestos. 

A  woman  whose  house  telephone  is 
necessarily  used  by  many  people  keeps 
at  hand  a  bottle  of  carboHc  acid  and  a 
box  of  little  squares  of  clean  white  cloth. 
Before  using  the  phone  she  wets  one  of 
the  squares  with  the  solution  and  wipes 
the  mouthpiece.  This  is  an  easy  thing 
to  do,  and  may  be  the  means  of  saving 
much  misfortune. 

A  most  simple  yet  beautiful  way  to 
arrange  flowers,  having  short  stems,  is  to 
weave  over  the  top  of  the  bowl  or  vase 
to  contain  them  a  fine  feathery  vine 
such  as  asparagus  or  smilax.  Through 
the  network  thrust  the  flower  stems. 
The  green  forms  a  beautiful  background 
and  a  few  flowers  may  be  made  to  show 
very  advantageously.  a.  m.  a. 


IN  sewing  braid  on  the  bottom  of 
a  skirt,  rip  a  hole  in  the  hem  large 
enough  to  insert  a  calling  card.  Push 
this  along  as  you  sew  the  braid,  and 
the  stitches  will  never  com.e  through 
on  the  outside  of  the  skirt. 

Tea,   which   is    to    be    sei*ved    cold, 
can  be  made  early  in  the  da3%  poured 


HOME  IDEAS  AND  ECONOMIES 


157 


off  the  leaves,  and  kept  in  the  ice  chest. 
I  serve  mine  as  if  it  were  hot,  weaken- 
ing each  glass  from  a  pitcher  of  chilled 
water,  and  adding  the  lemon  juice  from 
another  small  pitcher.  In  this  way 
the  clear  tea  which  is  left  over,  having 
no  lemon  in  it,  will  keep  for  several 
days.  Also  some  guests  who  fear  the 
effects  of  tea  will  accept  a  glass  of 
lemonade,  which  you  can  make  equally 
easily  from  the  same  tray. 

A  bag  made  of  flowered  ribbon, 
about  six  inches  wide,  and  filled  tight 
with  rice,  hanging  near  the  dressing 
table,  makes  the  best  kind  of  cushion 
for  hat  pins.  They  are  more  easily 
removed  than  from  a  dainty  fiat  pin- 
cushion, and  save  the  latter  from  large 
pin  holes  and  rust  marks.        w.  r.  p. 


Corn  Relish 

Cut  the  corn  from  two  dozen  ears; 
chop  rather  fine  one  head  of  cabbage, 
four  large  onions,  four  green  peppers 
and  one  red  pepper,  first  discarding 
the  seeds  of  the  peppers.  Add  one 
quart  of  vinegar  and  set  to  boil.  Mix 
together  three  cups  of  sugar,  three- 
fourths  a  cup  of  flour,  half  a  cup  of 
salt,  one-fourth  a  cup  of  dry  mustard 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  tumeric ;  when 
well  mixed  stir  in  one  quart  of  vinegar 
and  then  stir  the  mixture  into  the 
hot  vegetables.  Let  boil  half  an 
hour;  add  two  teaspoonfuls  of  celery 
seed  and  store  as  canned  fruit  or 
vegetables. 

Fried  Apples 

Have  about  one-fourth  a  cup  of 
hot  salt  pork  or  bacon  fat  in  a  frying 
pan.  The  fat  should  not  be  heated 
enough  to  discolor  it.  Turn  into  it 
about  five  tart  apples,  pared,  cored, 
and  cut  in  sUces,  and  let  cook  over 
a  moderate  fire  until  softened  and 
slightly  browned.  Turn  the  apples 
with  a  spatula,  occasionally,  that  the 


slices  below  may  not  become  too  brown. 
The  shape  of  the  slices  will  not  be 
kept  and  the  apple  will  be  browned 
irregularly. 

Peach  Sherbet 

Boil  a  quart  of  water  and  a  pint  of 
sugar  twenty  minutes ;  add  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  gelatine,  softened  in  three  or 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water,  and 
let  become  cold;  add  the  juice  of  one 
lemon  and  two  oranges  and  enough 
pared  peaches,  pressed  through  a  sieve 
(a  potato  ricer  is  the  best  utensil  for 
the  purpose  if  the  peach  stones  be  first 
discarded)  to  make  in  all  two  cups  of 
fruit  juice.  Freeze  as  usual.  Peach 
juice  may  replace  the  orange  juice, 
but  the  combination  is  a  good  one. 
Use  the  lemon  juice  to  bring  out  the 
flavor  of  the  peaches. 

Cold  Water  Sponge  Cake 

Beat  three  eggs  two  minutes;  add 
one  cup  and  a  half  of  sugar  and  beat 
five  minutes;  add  one  cup  and  a  half 
of  flour,  one  teaspoonful,  slightly  round- 
ing, of  cream  of  tartar,  and  half  a  level 
teaspoonful  of  soda  sifted  together; 
lastly,  add  half  a  cup  of  cold  water  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  extract. 

Things  Worth  Knowing 

Salt  added  to  starch  makes  the  gloss 
on  linen  when  it  is  ironed. 

When  making  up  unbleached  calico, 
allow  an  extra  inch  to  the  yard  to 
counterbalance  shrinking  when  washed. 

To  keep  the  whites  of  eggs  from 
faUing  when  being  whipped,  add  a 
pinch  of  cream  of  tartar. 

To  restore  the  fragrance  to  baskets 
made  of  sweet  scented  grass,  plunge 
them  into  boiling  water,  removing 
them  almost  instantly. 

Equal  parts  of  turpentine  and  am- 
monia make  a  good  remover  of  paint 
from  cloth.  Soak  the  spot  in  the 
mixture,  rub  it  hard,  dip  in  soapsuds, 
and  rub  it  again.  Almost  any  paint 
stain  can  be  removed  in  this  way. 


THIS  department  is  for  the  benefit  and  free  use  of  our  subscribers.  Questions  relating 
to  recipes,  and  those  pertaining  to  cuHnary  science  and  domestic  economics  in 
general,  will  be  cheerfully  answered  by  the  editor.  Communications  for  this  department 
must  reach  us  before  the  first  of  the  month  preceding  that  in  which  the  answers  are  expected 
to  appear.  In  letters  requesting  answers  by  mail,  please  enclose  addressed  and  stamped 
envelope.  For  menus  remit  $1.00.  Address  queries  to  Janet  M.  Hill,  editor,  Boston 
Cooking-School  Magazine,  372  Boylston  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


Query  1634.  —  "Recipes  for  Pie  crust 
with  lard,  Pie  crust  with  butter,  and  Lemon 
Filling." 


Recipe  for  Lard  or  Butter  Pastry 

On  page  86  of  the  August- September 
magazine  will  be  found  a  recipe  for 
plain  pastry.  No  variety  of  shorten- 
ing is  specified  —  any  variety  ma}^  be 
used.  Two  cups  and  a  half  of  flour 
(ten  ounces)  and  half  a  cup  (four 
ounces)  of  shortening  are  designated. 
This  makes  a  very  plain  pastry.  Prob- 
ably half  the  weight  of  the  flour  in 
shortening  would  give  more  general 
satisfaction.  That  is,  use  only  two 
cups  of  flour  to  the  half  cup  of  shorten- 
ing. In  mixing  the  paste  do  not  work 
the  shortening  into  the  flour  too 
thoroughly. 

Lemon  Filling 

Sift  together  two  tablespoonfuls  and 
a  half  of  cornstarch,  one  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  one  cup  of  sugar 
until  thoroughly  mixed ;  add  one  cup  of 
boiling  water  and  stir  until  boiling; 
remove  from  the  fire  and  beat  in  the 
grated  rind  and  juice  of  one  large  or 
two  small  lemons,  a  teaspoonful  of  but- 
ter and  one  egg,  beaten  light.  Use  as 
a  filling  between  two  unbaked  crusts. 
By  cooking  the  mixture,  before  adding 
the  egg  and  butter,  twenty  minutes  in 


a  double  boiler,  it  maybe  used  between 
crusts  baked  separately. 


Lemon  Filling  No.  2 

Juice  of  2 
lemons 

Grated  rind 
lemon 


small 
of      1 


3  yolks  of  eggs 

1  cup  of  sugar 

2  whites  of  eggs 
^  a  cup  of  butter 

Beat  the  yolks;  gradually  beat  in  the 
sugar,  then  add  the  whites,  one  at  a 
time,  unbeaten.  Beat  the  butter  to  a 
cream;  gradually  beat  in  the  egg  mix- 
ture and  the  lemon  juice  and  rind. 
Bake  between  two  crusts,  or  cook  in  a 
double  boiler  and  spread  between  two 
crusts  baked  separately ;  or  bake  in  one 
crust  and  use  the  two  extra  whites  for 
a  meringue. 


Query  1635.  —  "Recipes  for  Consomm4 
with  Flageolet,  Lamb  Chops,  Maintenon,  and 
Bar-le-duc,  mentioned  in  the  menus  for 
Formal  June  Luncheons." 

Consomme  with   Flageolet 

Consomm^  is  a  soup  made  of  three 
kinds  of  meat — beef,  veal  and  chicken — 
with  vegetables  and  herbs,  clarified 
with  whites  of  eggs  and  chopped  meat, 
one  or  both.  The  flageolet  are  French 
beans ;  these  are  cooked  tender  in  water 
and  from  six  to  a  dozen  beans  are 
served  in  each  plate  of  soup.  The 
recipe  for  making  and  clearing  con- 
somme is  quite  lengthy;  a  good  recipe 
may  be  found  in  modem  cook  books  on 


158 


QUERIES  AND  ANSWERS 


159 


general   cookery.     At   least   one    such 
book  should  be  found  in  every  kitchen. 

Lamb  Chops,  Maintenon  Style 

Select  chops  with  a  rib  bone,  and 
about  an  inch  and  a  half  thick.  If,  in 
cutting  the  chops,  two  rib  bones  are 
present,  remove  one  of  them.  Scrape 
the  rib  bone  clean,  thus  forming  French 
chops.  Cut  through  the  back  of  each 
chop  at  the  middle  and  nearly  down 
to  the  bone,  to  form  a  sort  of  pocket. 
Have  ready  a  mushroom  preparation. 
Put  a  teaspoonful  or  more  of  this  into 
the  pocket  of  each  chop.  Press  the 
meat  together  close,  and  use  part  of 
a  wooden  toothpick  to  hold  in  place. 
Roll  the  chops  in  cooked  (browned) 
ham,  grated  fine.  Sprinkle  with  salt 
and  pepper,  then  roll  in  beaten  egg, 
and  then  in  soft  bread  crumbs.  Saute 
the  chops  in  hot,  clarified  butter  about 
four  minutes  on  each  side.  Then  dis- 
pose around  a  mound  of  risotto. 

Mushroom  Preparation  for  Chops 
Melt  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter. 
Add  half  a  cup  of  chopped  mushrooms 
(fresh,  not  canned)  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  grated  onion.  Stir,  and  cook  five 
minutes.  Then  dredge  with  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  a  dash  of  salt  and 
paprika.  Stir  and  cook  until  the  flour 
is  blended  with  the  butter.  Then  stir 
in  one-half  a  cup  of  stock  or  cream 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  fine-chopped 
parsley. 

Risotto  for  Lamb  Chops 

Put  a  quart  of  cold  water  over  a  cup 
of  rice,  and  heat  quickly  to  the  boiling 
point.  After  three  minutes  drain,  rinse 
in  cold  water,  drain,  and  dry  on  a 
cloth.  Melt  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter 
in  a  saucepan.  Put  in  an  onion,  cut  in 
halves,  half  a  green  pepper,  chopped 
fine,  and  the  rice.  Stir  and  cook  until 
the  butter  is  absorbed.  Then  add  one 
cup  and  a  half  of  strained  tomato  and 
two  and  one-half  cups  of  white  broth 
or  boiling  water.     Add  also  a  teaspoon- 


ful of  salt.  Let  cook  until  the  liquid  is 
absorbed  and  the  rice  is  tender.  Then 
stir  in  a  cup  of  mushroom  caps,  broken 
in  pieces,  and  sauted  five  minutes  in 
butter,  and  half  a  cup  of  grated  Parme- 
san cheese.  When  thoroughly  mixed 
and  very  hot,  serve  with  the  chops. 

The  risotto  is  not  an  integral  part  of 
this  particular  dish.  It  may  be  re- 
placed with  potatoes  in  some  form,  as 
French  fried,  or  some  other  vegetable. 

Recipe  for  Bar-le-duc 

Two  recipes  for  this  confection  were 
given  on  page  112  of  the  August-Sep- 
tember, 1910,  magazine. 


Query  1636. 
Rind  Pickle." 


"Recipe  for  Watermelon 


Watermelon  Rind  Pickle 

Pare  the  rind,  cut  it  in  cubes,  cover 
with  cold  water  to  which  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  salt  to  each  quart  of  water  has 
been  added.  Let  stand  overnight, 
drain,  rinse  in  cold  water  and  set  to 
cook  in  boiling  water.  Let  cook  until 
tender,  then  drain  carefully.  For  each 
six  pounds  of  rind  take  one  pint  of 
vinegar,  three  pounds  of  sugar,  a 
tablespoonful  of  whole  cloves,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cinnamon  bark,  bro- 
ken in  pieces,  and  two  or  three  pieces 
of  mace;  heat  to  the  boiling  point,  add 
the  rind  and  let  cook  very  slowly  about 
half  an  hour.  Store  in  an  earthen  jar 
or  in  glass  fruit  jars  as  canned  fruit. 


Query  1637.  —  "Will  the  recipe  for  Mint 
Jelly  given  in  the  June-July  magazine  keep 
in  glasses  through  the  winter  if  put  up  now?  V. 

Regarding  Recipes  for  Mint  Jelly 

Mint  jelly,  made  by  the  recipe  for 
"Mint  Jelly,"  with  gelatine,  will  keep 
but  a  short  time;  jelly,  made  by  the  re- 
cipe for  "Mint-apple  JeUy,"  will  keep 
through  the  winter. 


Query    1638.  —  "Recipe       for      making 
Grape  Juice. " 


16© 


THE    BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Grape  Juice 

Wash  the  grapes,  pull  them  from  the 
stems,  put  them,  covered,  over  a  slow 
fire  to  simmer  gently  and  stir  occa- 
sionally until  the  grapes  are  softened 
throughout,  then  drain  in  a  bag,  press- 
ing out  the  last  of  the  juice  if  desired. 
Rinse  fruit  jars  and  covers  in  boiling 
water;  turn  the  boiling  juice  into  the 
jars,  set  on  a  hot  folded  cloth,  filling 
them  to  overflow;  adjust  the  rubbers, 
remove  the  covers  from  boiling  water 
and  fasten  the  jars  secure.  Or,  fill 
the  jars  with  the  strained  juice,  set 
them  on  a  cloth  laid  over  a  rack  in  a 
steam  cooker  or  canner,  surround  with 
lukewarm  water  and  let  cook  ten  min- 
utes after  the  water  boils,  then  close 
secure  with  rubbers  and  the  sterile 
covers. 

Query  1639.  —  "Please  explain  why  tiny 
flies  appear  in  flour.  At  first  I  kept  the  flour 
in  the  bin  in  the  kitchen  cabinet;  when  tiny 
flies  appeared  all  through  a  new  sack,  I 
bought  a  tin  bin,  but  I  have  again  had  the 
same  trouble.  The  flour  was  the  best  grade 
carried  by  my  grocer." 

Cause  of  Tiny  Flies  in  Flour 
We  have  had  no  experience  with  flies 
in  flour;  we  have  had  worms  appear  in 
flour  after  it  had  been  kept  some  time 
and  have  seen  them  in  entire  wheat 
flour  when  bought  from  a  barrel  at  the 
grocers.  Will  be  glad  for  any  informa- 
tion on  the  subject. 


Query  1G40.  —  "Does  olive  oil  have  the 
same  nutritive  value  after  cooking  that  it 
has  uncooked?  We  use  olive  oil  in  bread  for 
shortening  and  also  in  cooking  meats;  thus 
used  is  its  nutritive  value  lessened?" 

Nutritive  Value  of  Cooked  Oil 

We  would  be  glad  to  publish  the 
results  of  any  experiments  that  have 
been  made  to  show  the  comparative 
value  to  the  system  of  cooked  and  un- 
cooked fats.  It  is  thought  that  in  the 
case  of  fat  in  meats  that  cooking  at  a 
temperature  considerably  higher  than 
212*  Fahr.  does  no  mischief  and  may 


be  desirable  (Mattieu  Williams  in 
"Chemistry  of  Cookery")  and  olive  oil 
can  be  heated  to  a  higher  temperature 
than  other  fats,  without  dissociation.  It 
is  quite  another  matter  with  butter. 


Query  1641.  —  "How  may  Green  Corn 
Pudding  be  served  for  200  plates  without 
ramekin  dishes?  Recipe  for  Potatoes  Duch- 
esse. " 

Serving  Green  Corn  Pudding  in 
Quantity 

Green  com  pudding  may  be  baked  in 
any  sort  of  an  agate  or  earthenware 
baking  dish.  Oval  au  gratin  dishes  of 
earthenware,  large  enough  to  serve 
a  dozen  people,  cost  about  fifty  cents 
each.  These  are  probably  more  suit- 
able to  take  to  the  dining-room  than 
any  other  dish  at  the  same  price. 

Duchesse  Potatoes 

To  about  a  pint  of  hot  potato  pressed 
through  a  potato  ricer  or  sieve  add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  the  beaten  yolks  of 
two  eggs  and  enough  hot  milk  or  cream 
to  moisten  as  needed.  Beat  thoroughly. 
When  used  for  piping  the  potato  must 
be  of  a  consistency  to  flow  easily 
through  a  tube  and  yet  hold  its  shape 
perfectly. 


Query    1642. 
Fish  Chowder." 


Recipes    for    Clam    and 


Clam  Chowder 

("Practical  Cooking  and  Serving") 


1  cup  of  cold  water 

1  quart  of  fresh  shel- 
led clams 

^  a  pound  (scant)  of 
salt  pork 

1  onion,  sliced 

1  quart  of  sliced  po- 
tatoes 


1  tabiespoonful  of  salt 
3      cups      of      milk, 

scalded 
i  a  cup  of  butter 
^    a    cup    of    flour    if 

desired 
Pepper  to  taste 
Crackers 

Parboil  and  rinse  the  potatoes.     Pour 

the   cold  water  over  the   clams,   pick 

over  and  rinse  in  the  water  to  remove 

bits  of  shell;  strain  the  water  and  clam 

juice  through  a  napkin  and  in  it  scald 

the  clams;   strain  out  the   clams  and 

keep  them  hot.     In  the  meantime  try 

out  the  fat  from  the  pork,  cut  in  bits, 


Two  Menus  for  Thanksgiving  Dinners 


I 

New  England 

Cream-of-Clam  Soup 

Fresh  Codfish  Boiled,  Egg  Sauce 

Gherkins.   Olives 

Roast  Turkey,   Cape   Cod  Cranberry  Sauce 

Celery.     Mashed  Potato,  Xantaise 

Onions  in  Cream  Sauce 

Chicken  Pie 

Sweet  Pickled  Peaches 

Pumpkin  Pie 

Ice  Cream  Sundae,  Sultana  Roll  Style 

Grapes.  Apples 

Coffee 


II 


Southland 

Bisque  of  Crabmeat 

Young  Guinea  Hens,  Roasted 

Guava  Jelly 

Rice  Croquettes.     Candied  Sweet  Potatoes 

French  Endive  and  Cumquat  Salad 

Banana  or  Squash  Pie 

Grape  juice  Syllabub  or  Zabione 

Fruit.     Nuts 

Coffee 


The 
Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


Vol.  XV 


November,  1910 


No.  4 


Some  Uses  to  which  the  Attic  may  be  put 

By  Mary  H.  Northend 


THE  attic  is  happily  coming  to  be 
appreciated  at  its  true  worth. 
Housewives  of  the  present  are 
beginning  to  reaHze  its  adaptabiHty, 
and  are  exerting  every  effort  to  bring 
it  into  its  own.  The  many  pleasing 
results  that  have  already  been  effected 
in  the  transformation  of  this  erstwhile 
storage  space  are  convincing  proofs  of 
its  possibilities,  and  tend  to  show  that 
tact  and  ingenuity  will  work  wonders 
in  the  reclaiming  of  this  generally 
wasted  space. 

Even  in  old-fashioned  houses,  where 
the  attic  is  particularly  dark  and 
gloomy,  the  transition  into  a  pleasant, 
livable  room  is  possible.  Of  course, 
alterations  must  be  made,  and  some 
money  expended,  but  the  bother  of 
"making  over"  is  worth  while,  and  the 
expense  slight,  if  a  little  tact  is  ex- 
ercised. 

First  of  all,  proper  lighting  must  be 
provided.  In  the  west  gable  end 
insert  a  group  of  three  windows  in 
Venetian  style  —  one  wide  double- 
hung  window  in  the  center,  and  narrow 
casement  windows  at  each  side,  open- 
ing     outward.     Arrange      these      low 


enough  to  allow  for  an  ample  window- 
seat  beneath.  Provide  the  windows 
with  tiny  panes,  with  thick  wooden 
muntins;  for  large  panes  are  entirely 
out  of  place  in  this  apartment.  Shade 
the  windows  with  simple  curtains  of 
cretonne,  silkoline  or  some  similar 
inexpensive  material,  hung  on  narrow 
brass  rods.  An  attic  has  no  fell  »vship 
with  elaborate  draperies. 

Perhaps  in  the  east  gable  th^rc  is  a 
narrow  window.  Make  this  over  into 
one  of  Dutch  design,  with  high  window 
stool  and  wide  sill.  Provide  it  with 
the  same  small  panes  of  glass  as  were 
used  in  the  Venetian  window,  and  cur- 
tain it  with  the  same  simple  material. 

Having  made  due  provision  for  light, 
the  next  consideration  is  a  fireplace. 
The  main  chimney  always  runs  up 
through  the  attic,  and  at  slight  expense 
it  can  be  opened  and  a  fireplace  built. 
This  feature  is  particularly  desirable 
in  this  apartment,  and  the  slight  cost 
of  its  providing  is  amply  repaid  by 
the  cheer  and  good  will  it  breathes 
forth  as  its  fitful  flames  throw  searching 
shadows  that  play  in  and  out  among 
the  brown  rafters. 


163 


164 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


If  the  floor  is  in  poor  condition,  in- 
capable of  taking  an  oil  stain  satisfac- 
torily, lay  over  it  a  new  flooring  of 
maple,  and  finish  with  staining  or 
varnish.  Leave  the  sheathing  in  its 
plain  brown  finish,  to  correspond  with 
the  unfinished  rafters  of  the  roof. 

If  the  fireplace  is  in  the  center  of 
the  end  wall,  as  is  generally  the  case, 
extend  seats  on  either  side;  or,  a  seat 
can  be  built  at  one  side,  and  a  bookcase 
at  the  other  side.  Sometimes  it  is 
possible  to  arrange  two  or  three  book- 
shelves above  a  seat  space,  thus  con- 
stituting a  tiny  inglenook  effect.  Ever 
so  many  attractive  uses  can  be  made  of 
the  space  flanking  the  fireplace,  if  only 
a  little  thought  is  exercised.  Skeleton 
shelves  may  also  be  arranged  at  either 
side  of  the  Venetian  window,  within 
comfortable  reach  of  the  window  seat. 

Comfortable  chairs  of  the  Mission 
type,  as  well  as  a  couch   and    center 


table,  with  perhaps  one  or  two  smaller 
tables,  should  be  provided.  Every 
piece  of  furniture  used  here  should  be 
plain  and  substantial.  Simplicity  is 
the  keynote  of  this  apartment,  and  all 
rich,  expensive  furniture  would  be 
wholly  out  of  place. 

To  relieve  the  somewhat  somber 
finish  of  walls,  floor  and  furniture, 
decide  on  a  color  scheme  for  decoration. 
Old  rose  and  moss  green  are  a  pleasing 
combination,  especially  when  worked 
out  on  a  cream- white  ground.  A 
pretty  cretonne  of  this  coloring  is 
readily  procurable,  and  can  be  used 
for  window  hangings,  seat  and  chair 
cushions,  and  couch  covering. 

A  unique  use  of  the  attic  is  to  con- 
vert it  into  a  combination  den  and 
chamber.  This  was  accomplished  by 
two  young  girls  at  slight  cost.  The 
attic  was  in  an  old-fashioned  house,  and 
had   been    unused    for   years.     It    ex- 


Gentleman's  Lounging-Room  in  Attic 


SOME  USES  TO  WHICH  THE  ATTIC  MAY  BE  PUT 


165 


Attic  Studio 


tended  the  entire  length  of  the  main 
part,  with  staircase  opening  in  the 
center.  The  first  move  was  to  thor- 
oughly clean  it,  after  which  proper 
lighting  was  provided.  The  small  win- 
dows in  either  gable  were  enlarged  into 
Dutch  effects,  and  at  either  side  of  the 
fireplace  —  which  was  opened  up  in 
the  main  chimney  at  one  end  of  the 
attic  —  tiny  casement  windows  were 
inserted.  The  floor  was  found  to  be 
in  good  condition  and  was  simply 
stained  a  dark  brown.  The  sheathing 
was  left  in  its  natural  finish. 

The  next  step  was  to  partition  off 
the  space  under  the  eaves  at  the  north 
side,  at  a  point  where  the  rafters  were 
seven  feet  from  the  floor,  thus  provid- 
ing ample  space  for  trunk  room  and 
clothes  press.  The  partition  was  made 
of  cheap  tongue-and-groove  pine  sheath- 
ing, finished  with  oak  stain.  The 
sheathing  was  continued  all  the  way 
around    the    room,    against    the    fur- 


ring. At  the  south  side  it  was  kept 
out  from  the  eaves  so  as  to  make  a  wall 
space  five  feet  high  for  additional  stor- 
age space. 

The  partition  of  the  closet  ran  close 
to  the  chimney,  leaving  just  room  for 
the  comfortable  ingle  seat  that  was 
built.  The  chimney  and  the  staircase 
were  in  line,  and  to  the  right  of  the  fire- 
place a  tall,  burnt-wood  folding  screen 
was  arranged,  and  served  to  divide  the 
whole  floor  into  two  apartments  —  the 
larger  one  in  the  west  gable  for  den, 
reception  or  sitting  room,  while  the 
smaller  one  in  the  east  gable  made  a 
cozy  bedroom. 

The  windows  were  shaded  by  cream- 
white  hangings  with  stencil  borders  of 
scarlet  red  poppies.  The  same  cream- 
white  material  was  used  as  covering 
for  window  seat,  ingle  seat,  chair  and 
couch  cushions,  and  the  same  vivid 
design  of  poppies  outHned  each.  On 
the  broad  sill  below  the  Dutch  windows 


166 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


scarlet  geraniums  were  arranged  and 
added  still  another  touch  of  coloring. 
The  furniture  used  in  the  den  was  of 
old-fashioned  design  and  consisted  of 
odd  pieces  found  in  the  attic  at  the 
time  of  its  reclaiming,  as  well  as  some 
few  pieces  brought  from  downstairs. 
In  the  chamber  an  old  set  of  black 
walnut  was  made  use  of.  Its  somber- 
ness  was  relieved  by  the  window  hang- 
ings of  cream-white  with  poppy  bor- 
ders. The  bureau  scarf  and  table 
cover  were  of  the  same  material,  and 
the  Vassar  box  showed  a  like  covering. 
The  attic  in  its  transformed  state  was 
most  attractive,  and  readily  solved  the 
problem  of  providing  additional  room 
needed. 

Another  attic  was  devoted  to  the 
uses  of  two  bright  boys,  who  were 
much  interested  in  the  arts-and-crafts 
movement,  but  had  no  place  for  a 
workshop.     No  change  was  made  in  the 


woodwork;  and  as  the  floor  was  fairly 
good  it  was  thoroughly  oiled  and  then 
received  no  further  treatment.  This 
keeps  down  dust,  and  makes  a  surface 
from  which  the  boys  can  easily  sweep 
shavings.  A  large  window  was  in- 
serted in  each  of  the  two  gables,  and  a 
work-bench  fitted  under  each  window. 
This  arrangement  gives  good  light  for 
their  work.  Each  boy  has  fitted  up 
shelves,  drawers  and  cupboards  for 
storing  his  tools  and  raw  material. 
They  have  decorated  the  walls  accord- 
ing to  their  own  taste,  for  the  most  part 
with  photographs  taken  and  finished 
by  themselves,  for  which  purpose  a 
small  dark-room  has  been  boarded  in 
between  the  chimneys.  These  two 
chimneys,  with  the  heat  which  rises 
from  the  steam-heated  rooms  below, 
make  the  attic  warm  enough  to  work 
in,  even  during  the  winter  season.  It 
is  lighted  by  electricity,  for  which  the 


Children's  Play-Room  in  At 


SOME  USES  TO  WHICH  THE  ATTIC  MAY  BE  PUT 


167 


boys  put  up  their 
own  wire  and  made 
their  own  batteries. 

A  certain  well- 
known  artist  took 
the  entire  third  floor 
of  a  spacious  Colonial 
house  for  a  studio, 
and  worked  a  trans- 
formation that  is 
truly  artistic.  In 
the  huge  old  chim- 
ney a  generous  fire- 
place was  opened, 
and  a  long,  broad 
mantel  shelf  built 
above  it.  Over  the 
worn  floor  a  new 
hard  [pine  one  was 
laid  and  carefully 
polished.  The  wood 
work  was  left  un- 
finished, but  the  side 
walls  were  hung  with 
burlap  in  a  deep 
moss  green. 

The  furniture  used 
is  of  a  nondescript 
character,  well  in 
the  situation.  There  is  an  old-fash- 
ioned sofa,  a  box-seat  for  the  window, 
a  couch,  a  divan,  a  spinning  wheel,  a 
Dutch  chum  and  chairs  of  various 
styles  and  sizes.  There  are  muskets, 
swords,  jugs,  steins  and  vases.  Of 
course  there  are  pictures  everywhere  — • 
on  easels,  on  the  wall,  on  the  couches, 
on  the  floor;  and  there  are  raised  plat- 
forms beneath  the  windows,  large 
enough  to  hold  chair  and  easel,  in  order 
to  catch  different  light  values  upon  the 
painting. 

This  attic  studio  is  frequently  opened 
to  friends,  who  enjoy  an  afternoon 
among  the  pictures.  The  tea  which  is 
served  in  this  charming  retreat  seems 
to  have  an  especial  flavor,  borrowed 
perhaps,  from  its  unusual  surroundings. 

One  of  the  pleasantest  studies  I 
have  ever  seen  was  a  plastered  attic 
room,  on  the  third  floor  of  a  two  and  a 


keeping      with 


Den  in  Attic 


half  story  house.  It  had  but  one  win- 
dow, but  that  was  a  wide  one,  facing 
the  southwest.  The  sunlight  streamed 
in  here  from  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning 
until  sunset,  and  it  overlooked  a  beauti- 
ful view  in  which  a  little  river  sang  its 
way  through  an  elm-shaded  New  Eng- 
land town.  This  river  was  so  near 
that  one  could  hear  its  song.  Across 
the  stream,  over  the  tops  of  cottages 
immaculate  in  white  paint  with  green 
blinds,  rose  a  great  green  hill,  and  be- 
yond towered  the  mountains  with  their 
ever-changing  shadows. 

The  sloping  roof  came  down  within 
three  feet  of  the  floor  upon  one  side 
of  the  room.  Skeleton  book  shelves, 
stained  to  match  the  trim  of  the  room, 
ran  along  that  side  and  held  about 
five  hundred  books.  Others  occupied 
shelves  above  and  below  the  writing- 
desk,  placed  just  at  the  right  of  the 
window.     The   study  table   and   com- 


168 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


fortable  chair  held  a  central  position. 
The  walls  and  ceiling  were  covered 
with  a  dainty  wall  paper,  in  a  pattern 
of  blue  forget-me-nots  and  maidenhair, 
against  a  cool  gray  background  that 
matched  the  pearl-gray  woodwork. 
Pictures  were  hung  all  about,  wherever 


possible.  The  study  complete  pos- 
sessed a  charming  sense  of  isolation, 
so  high  was  it  above  the  ground  floor. 
Noises  from  the  street  below  were 
deadened  by  distance;  only  the  river 
sang  on  incessantly,  lending  its  hospita- 
ble voice  to  the  quiet  of  the  friendly  attic. 


Huntsman's  Room  in  Attic 


A  Young  Nurse 

By  A.  T.  Frost 


She  walks  blocks  and  blocks,  with  her  cheeks  flushing  pink, 

While  the  breezes  ruffle  her  curls, 
And  she's  sober,  yes,  very,  responsible  too, 

This  proudest  of  proud  little  girls. 
O'er  a  carriage  she  bends,  with  a  matronly  air. 

Hums  a  song  that  is  sweet  as  can  be  — 
Sure  a  wonderful  nurse,  slow  she  paces  along. 

She  has  borrowed  a  baby,  you  see. 

The  tennis  balls  fly  in  the  court  by  the  hedge. 

She's  raced  there  herself,  wildly  gay. 
But  now  there  is  business  engrossing  on  hand, 

The  children  that  want  to  can  play. 
Oh,  later,  'tis  true,  she  will  romp  with  the  rest, 

She's  mischievous,  sometimes,  they  say; 
Far  off  is  tomorrow,  uplifted  she  feels. 

She  has  borrowed  a  baby,  today. 


Take  Account  of  your  Blessings 

By  Mrs.  Charles  Norman 


T 


^HE  honor  shall  be  yours  to  the 
world's  end,"  so  wrote  a  friend 
in  England  to  one  of  the  men 
who,  in  1620,  landed  in  Plymouth, 
Massachusetts,  to  make  a  home  in 
the  wilderness. 

Nearly  three  hundred  years  have 
passed,  and,  today,  when  we  hear  the 
name  "Pilgrim,"  we  repeat,  "The 
honor  shall  be  yours  to  the  world's  end, 
and  to  the  world's  end  your  descend- 
ants, who  live  amid  enfeebling  luxuries, 
will  need  to  remind  themselves  over 
and  over  of  your  sufferings,  your  thrift, 
your  prudence  and  your  courage." 

To  go  to  a  new  world,  across  a  wide 
and  dangerous  sea,  a  world  that  had 
offered  no  hospitality  to  earlier  comers, 
to  go  with  the  encouragement  and 
support  of  no  one,  in  no  spirit  of  ad- 
venture, no  expectation  of  gain,  to  give 
up  native  land,  kindred  and  friends,  to 
do  all  for  conscience  sake,  —  this 
would  not  be  possible  for  an  inex- 
,  perienced,  indecisive,  frivolous  person, 
unless  he  were  attacked  by  sudden 
madness.  The  Pilgrims  had  long  be- 
fore counted  the  cost  of  their  enter- 
prise. They  had  had  abundant  disci- 
pline in  misfortune  and  sacrifice.  Al- 
ready, for  twelve  years,  they  had  been 
self-exiled  in  Holland.  There  they 
were  free  from  persecution;  but  they 
saw  that  their  children  would  not  be 
EngUsh,  but  Dutch.  Might  they  not 
go  to  a  far-off  country  and  prove  to  the 
narrow-minded  king  of  England  that 
religious  and  civil  freedom  were  not 
incompatible  with  true  loyalty?  For 
the  sake  of  future  generations  they 
undertook  it,  though  the  king  offered 
them  no  protection.  To  be  let  alone, 
to  have  peace  and  freedom,  was  all 
they  desired! 

They  had  studied  the  various  forms 
of   religion   both   in   England   and   in 


Holland.  According  to  Bancroft,  they 
were  men  "cultivated  by  extensive 
observation."  Their  undertaking  was, 
then,  the  more  heroic,  and  their  orderly, 
systematic  and  firm  conduct  proves 
that  they  were  by  no  means  ordinary. 

We  know  their  oft-repeated  history; 
yet  words  do  not  tell,  they  only  hint, 
the  privations  and  suffering.  A  little 
band  of  dissenting  Englishmen,  worn 
out  with  the  many  delays  and  disap- 
pointments in  starting  the  voyage, 
weary  almost  unto  death  with  two 
terrible  months  spent  upon  a  stormy 
sea,  weak  from  want  of  good  food  — 
such  were  they  when  a  dishonest  pilot 
landed  them  upon  one  of  the  bleakest 
and  most  sterile  points  in  our  eastern 
seaboard.  Had  it  been  spring  they 
might  soon  have  recovered  their  vi- 
tality, but  it  lacked  but  three  days 
till  Christmas,  and  winter  was  irrev- 
ocably settled  upon  them.  There 
was  no  time  for  parley  over  the  best 
location  for  their  proposed  village. 
The  boat  could  not  be  brought  to  shore, 
and  the  men  waded  through  the  cold 
waters  to  make  their  first  investiga- 
tions. Snow  had  to  be  cleared  away 
before  a  hut  could  be  located,  and  the 
work  could  only  be  carried  on  between 
storms  of  sleet  and  snow.  It  is  not 
strange  that  before  the  second  cabin 
was  ready  for  use,  it  was  needed  as  a 
hospital.  Then  came  the  lonely,  anx- 
ious days,  when  Death  was  always 
present,  when  not  only  comforts  but 
necessities  were  wanting.  So  many 
died  that  "the  living  were  scarce  able 
to  bury  the  dead.  At  the  season  of 
greatest  distress  there  were  but  seven 
able  to  render  assistance.  After  sick- 
ness, privation  and  want  remained  to 
be  encountered.  Yet  when,  in  April, 
the  Mayflower  was  dispatched  for 
England,    not    one    returned!"     Half 


169 


170 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


of  the  original  one  hundred  had  been 
laid  in  the  grave.  The  struggles  of 
the  remaining  number  cannot  be  im- 
agined, but  it  was  the  spirit  in  which 
they  bore  their  struggles  that  has  made 
their  fame  undying. 

After  the  first  harvest  was  gathered 
in,  though  the  conditions  of  life  were 
still  hardly  bearable,  they  reverently 
set  aside  a  day  for  thanks.  We  pic- 
ture that  first  Thanksgiving,  the  sim- 
plicity of  it,  the  intense  thankfulness 
for  delivery  from  death,  their  pathetic 
joy  in  being  provided  with  daily  bread, 
their  sublime  appreciation  of  God's 
goodness  in  giving  them  liberty  and 
their  zeal  to  show  full  justice  —  even 
hospitality — to  the  savages  who  were 
their  only  neighbors. 

We  pause  for  a  long  time  to  contem- 
,  plate  the  firm  character  of  those  pio- 
neers and  to  wonder  if  we,  with  all  our 
civilization,  are  worthy  of  our  ancestral 
honors. 

With  all  their  accessions  from  Eng- 
land, it  took  the  Plymouth  colony  ten 
years  to  reach  a  population  of  three 
hundred.  Think  what  a  decade  means 
now!  The  new  world  is  altered  past 
all  belief.  The  American  nation,  con- 
ceived in  liberty,  cradled  in  suffering, 
bred  in  the  sternest  simplicity,  has 
arrived  at  full  and  luxuriant  maturity! 
What  it  means  in  the  way  of  comforts 
—  w^ho  can  say  ?  What  it  may  import 
in  loss  of  character  —  no  one  likes  to 
think.  The  flowers  which  are  used 
for  decoraton  for  one  Thanksgiving 
ball  cost  more  than  was  required  to 
keep  one  hundred  colonists  a  year,  and 
the  lace  upon  the  petticoats  of  a  dozen 
ballroom  belles  would  supply  blankets 
for  a  large  hospital  or  relieve  many 
weary  men  from  the  necessity  of  over- 
^  toil.     All   over  this  broad   country  — 


and  we  never  realize  how  broad  it  is  — 
there  are  churches  whose  spires  "prick 
with  incredible  pinnacles  into  heaven," 
but  the  building  of  those  splendid  edi- 
fices cost  nothing  in  the  way  of  sacrifice. 
From  Atlantic  to  Pacific,  in  the  cities 
and  the  thousands  of  square  miles  that 
stretch  between,  there  have  been  es- 
tablished at  gigantic  expense,  free 
schools,  for  which  we  are  thankful  to 
no  one.  We  look  upon  them  as  an 
inalienable  right,  and  so  they  are;  but 
it  was  the  men  and  women  of  the 
Mayflower  who  purchased  this  right. 
They  lived  for  posterity! 

Progress  is  undeniably  a  good  thing, 
but  we  wonder,  sometimes,  if  it  would 
not  be  advantageous  to  progress  back- 
ward for  a  little  while.  It  is  hard  to 
say  how  far  our  luxuries  ought  to  go, 
or  how  moral  strength  is  to  be  main- 
tained, if  our  extravagances  are  not 
checked. 

We  cannot  sing,  as  we  ought  to  sing, 

"  Praise  God,  from  whom  all  blessings  flow." 

for  we  have  no  realization  of  what  our 
blessings  are,  or  that  anybody  ever 
existed  without  what  we  call  "ne- 
cessities." 

It  is  therefore  good  to  take  a  back- 
ward glance.  Every  useful  man  lives 
in  the  past  and  future,  as  well  as  the 
present.  It  is  not  only  admissible  but 
obHgatory  for  Americans  to  cherish  the 
memory  of  their  ancestors  and  to 
guard  religiously  every  detail  of  their 
history.  There  are  wrongs  yet  to  be 
righted,  there  are  private  burdens  and 
public  burdens  yet  to  be  borne.  Can 
we  begin  with  half  the  courage,  can 
we  hold  to  our  purpose  with  half 
the  determination,  of  the  Pilgrims, 
depending  solely  "upon  ourselves  and 
God"? 


CU:^?^'^^^^::?^'"^::^^^) 


One  Thanksgiving 

By  Alix  Thorn 


MISS  ELIZABETH'S  sober  gray 
eyes  were  fixed  upon  a  modest 
water  color  that  hung  over 
the  settle  in  the  schoolroom.  The  pic- 
ture had  evidently  been  painted  by 
an  amateur;  just  a  stretch  of  gray 
green  shore  and  blue  water,  and  for  a 
background  some  tall  trees  silhouetted 
against  a  rather  blurry  sky.  "Those 
trees  look  like  pointed  firs!"  she  said 
with  a  quick  sigh.  "  Oh,  it  is  distinctly 
unprofitable  for  me  to  be  thinking  of 
pointed  firs  when  I  have  twenty-five 
themes  to  correct  before  six  o'clock!" 
and  spreading  out  her  papers,  she  bent 
her  brown  head  to  her  appointed  task, 
and  so  energetically  did  she  apply  herself 
that  not  once  were  her  eyes  raised  to  the 
disturbing  water  color  above  the  settle, 
with  its  tall  trees  and  its  blurry  sky. 

At  last  Miss  Elizabeth,  weary  young 
teacher  and  occasional  dreamer,  her 
task  accomplished,  put  away  her  pa- 
pers in  her  usual  methodical  fashion 
and  closed  the  schoolroom  door  behind 
her.  She  did  not  at  once  light  the  gas 
in  her  small  comer  room  high  up  on 
the  fourth  floor,  but  stood  by  the  one 
window  looking  out  upon  the  brightly 
lighted  city  street,  and  the  solid  line 
of  uninspiring  stone  fronts  that  faced 
her.  It  was  early  November;  it  had 
been  a  raw  day,  and  now  she  saw,  out- 
Hned  against  the  electric  light  at  the 
comer,  tiny  flakes  that  floated  mys- 
teriously down  out  of  the  dark  dome 
above,  the  first  breath  of  winter. 
Fresh  young  voices  sounded  in  the  hall, 
and  Elizabeth  heard  one  of  the  older 
girls  explaining  to  her  roommate, 
"Why,  yes,  it  was  last  summer;  we 
were  on  the  water  most  of  the  time, 
and  along  the  shore  there  were  the 
dandiest  picnic  places;  after  all,  and 
we've  certainly  experimented  enough, 
give  me  Maine." 

171 


The  slight  figure  by  the  window 
turned  away  from  her  idle  contempla- 
tion of  the  city  night,  and,  lighting  the 
gas,  began  hurriedly  to  make  her 
modest  dinner  toilet.  Yes,  she  knew 
now  what  had  been  the  matter  with 
her  all  the  day  —  why  not  own  up 
honestly  to  herself?  She  had  been 
simply  homesick  for  summer  and  Maine, 
for  her  playtime  in  the  glorious  open. 
The  crude  water  color,  with  its  sugges- 
tion of  pointed  firs,  had  merely  brought 
back  more  vividly  a  vision  of  never-to- 
be-forgotten  delights,  of  a  wooded 
island,  balsam  covered,  set  in  the  blue 
bay,  its  friendly  sister  islands  near 
by,  clean  shell  roads  leading  past 
trim  homesteads,  green  grassy  meadows 
and  pine-clad  slopes,  picturesque  sum- 
mer cottages,  and  white  beaches  facing 
the  open  sea.  It  was  only  last  summer 
that  she  had  learned  to  know  and  love 
it  all,  yet  now,  when  she  was  tired  and 
forlorn,  when  nothing  seemed  much 
worth  while,  like  a  wanderer  in  far 
lands,  the  memory  of  her  island,  as 
she  always  called  it,  would  come  back, 
with  a  great  rush  of  comfort. 

"Where  are  you  going  for  Thanks- 
giving, Miss  Campbell,"  inquired  one 
of  the  teachers  next  day,  "you  will  not 
stay  here,  will  you?  It's  hopelessly 
dreary,  with  every  one  away." 

"I  don't  know  where  I  shall  go," 
was  Miss  Elizabeth's  reply,  "I  haven't 
quite  decided."  True  enough,  she  did 
not  know\  Now  that  her  home  was 
broken  up  by  the  death  of  her  aunt, 
her  only  living  relative,  unless  she 
was  invited  for  the  holiday,  which  was 
extremely  unlikely,  she  must  stay  at 
the  school,  unlovely  though  the  pros- 
pect was. 

That  same  evening,  Betty  Burns,  a 
sweet-faced  senior,  tapped  at  her  door 
and  announced  that  she  had  come  for 


172 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


just  a  small,  wee  call,  always  provid- 
ing she  was  desired. 

"Of  course  you're  desired,  my  dear 
child,"  said  Miss  Elizabeth  hospitably; 
"take  the  wicker  chair,  and  put  my 
pink  shawl  around  you;  there  isn't  a 
very  good  heat  on." 

"Oh,  can  I  look  at  your  snap  shots," 
cried  enthusiastic  Betty;  "can  I,  they 
look  lovely,  such  bits  of  shore,  and 
what  pointed  trees,  fairly  sharpened 
all  of  them." 

Miss  Elizabeth  flushed  very  pink, 
as  she  was  wont  to  do  when  she  was 
pleasantly  excited,  looking  the  ver}^ 
girl  she  was.  "Oh,  Betty,"  she  smiled, 
" oh, Betty, I  must  tell  you  about  them; 
they  are  all  Maine  views,  all  of  them, 
and  taken  on  my  island." 

So,  with  interested  Betty  wrapped 
up  cozil}'  in  the  pink  shawl,  and  lend- 
ing willing  ears  to  the  recital,  picture 
after  picture  was  studied  and  com- 
mented upon;  and  so  well  did  Miss 
Elizabeth  describe  her  island,  that  one 
could  almost  feel  the  balsam-laden 
wind,  and  see  the  island-dotted  bay, — 
radiant  beneath  a  summer  sky. 

"And  see  that  comfy  farmhouse, 
with  the  water  below  it  and  the  hillside 
behind  it,"  said  Betty.  "I  want  to 
hear  all  about  it.  Why,  you  have 
three,  3^es  four  photographs  of  the 
same  house." 

"It  wasn't  very  far  from  the  cottage 
where  I  boarded,"  explained  Miss 
EHzabeth  happily.  "I  just  happened 
on  it  one  day,  the  homiest  farmhouse 
on  a  hillside  overlooking  the  bay. 
When  I  came  to  know  its  mistress,  I 
completely  fell  in  love  with  her,  such 
a  dear  motherly  person,  with  the  sweet- 
est face,  completel}^  devoted  to  her  big 
fisherman  husband  and  her  son  and 
daughter.  She  told  me  she  was  born 
on  the  island  and  had  always  lived 
there,  knowing  Httle  enough  about 
the  great  outside  world.  "How  many 
times  I've  played  on  the  dear  funny 
little  melodion  in  the  parlor,  all 
the   merry   tunes    I    could   remember, 


as  well  as  hymns.  And  you  should 
see  the  braided  rugs  on  all  the  shin- 
ing floors,  really  beautifully  blended 
tones,  pinks,  browns  and  dull  greens. 
Great  fluted  shells  on  the  high  mantels, 
old  family  china  in  the  corner  cup- 
boards, luster  and  some  quaint  bits 
of  Staffordshire.  Oh,  well,"  with  a 
half-suppressed  sigh,  "I'll  see  that  red 
farmhouse  and  that  island  when  July 
comes;  but,"  stretching  out  her  arms 
as  if  to  embrace  it  all,  "it's  long,  very 
long  to  wait,  Betty." 

"You've  made  me  wish  that  I,  too, 
could  see  your  especial  summer  comer," 
said  her  visitor  as  she  rose  to  go.  "I 
can  believe  it's  all  satisfying.  Good 
night,  good  night,  you  little  Miss 
Campbell." 

The  busy  days  passed  quickly,  as 
busy  days  are  apt  to  pass;  yet  lessons, 
prescribed  exercise  and  the  varied 
tasks  and  interests  of  a  girls'  school 
could  not  altogether  stem  the  happy 
undercurrent  of  plans  and  schemes 
for  the  coming  recess,  and  teachers  as 
well  as  pupils  fell  under  the  prevailing 
spell.  And  amid  the  glad  anticipation 
Miss  Elizabeth  seemed  to  feel  an  out- 
sider, walking  apart,  passively  awaiting 
the  holiday  that  should  be  such  a  joy- 
ful one.  She  alone  had  no  home  to  go 
back  to,  no  loving  welcome  awaited 
her;  and  though  she  scolded  herself 
sternly,  hot  tears  would  fill  her  eyes 
on  the  rare  occasions  when  she  allowed 
herself  the  luxury  of  self-pity. 

It  was  the  morning  of  the  eighteenth 
that  Miss  Elizabeth  stood  with  a  group 
of  girls  in  the  hall,  awaiting  the  distri- 
bution of  the  mail. 

"Here  you  are.  Miss  Campbell," 
cried  a  little  blonde  maiden,  "just  one 
letter,  but  maybe  it  is  an  extra  inter- 
esting one.  I  have  four,  and  that 
means  joy  for  me." 

Elizabeth  Campbell  took  her  letter, 
and  seeking  a  retired  window  seat  tore 
open  the  narrow  envelope.  "What 
odd  writing!"  she  mused;  "a  small, 
cramped,    old-fashioned    hand;    I    cer- 


A " CHAIR  OF  MANNERS 


173 


tainly  don't  recognize  it,  and  written 
on  ruled  paper." 

But  as  she  read  her  pale  cheeks 
glowed  Hke  roses,  and  a  tender  httle 
smile . curved  her  lips.  "To  think  that 
I  can  spend  Thanksgiving  on  my  island, 
in  the  red  fannhouse  —  why,  it's 
unbelievable.  Dear  soul,  her  own 
daughter  cannot  be  with  them,  so  she 
wonders  if  I  will  come.  Will  I,  will 
I!"  And  then  the  gong  summoned 
teachers  and  pupils  to  prayers. 

The  day  before  Thanksgiving,  late 
in  the  afternoon,  the  island  steamer 
left  one  passenger  with  her  suit-case 
on  the  dock,  a  slim,  fur-coated,  bright 
haired  girl,  who  hurried  up  to  the  tall 
man  in  a  rough  coat,  who  awaited  her, 
smiling  all  over  his  good-looking  brown 
face. 

"We  was  expecting  you.  Miss  Camp- 
bell," and  he  beamed  down  on  his 
young  guest.  "Mother,  she  said,  'Do, 
be  on  hand  for  once,  'Lias,  for' — these 
were  her  very  words — 'that  child  ain't 
used  to  the  island  in  winter;  she's 
small,  and  I  do  believe  a  good  wind 
might  blow  her  into  the  bay. ' " 

"I  knew  you'd  meet  me,"  glowed 
Elizabeth.  "I  told  myself  all  the  way 
over  that  there'd  be  some  one  on  the 
pier.  Already  I  love  the  island  in 
winter,  and  it  isn't  all  changed,  just 
this  little  dust  of  snow,  for  aren't  the 
firs  always  green  ? ' ' 

Faint     stars     shone     through     thin 


clouds,  a  young  moon  but  half  dis- 
closed her  silver  sickle,  but  the  shell 
road  gleamed  white  under  their  feet, 
as  they  walked  briskly  along  through 
the  wintry  dusk.  Lights  began  to 
twinkle  at  distant  windows,  and  far 
out  over  the  dark  water  a  lighthouse 
sent  out  its  cheerful  beacon.  A  merry 
whistle  sounded  as  a  creaking  barn 
door  swung  to,  then  a  dog  barked  shrilly 
as  he  heard  their  approaching  footsteps. 
Now  they  began  to  descend  the  rough 
road  through  the  pasture,  and  just 
below  was  the  farmhouse  all  ablaze 
with  lights. 

"That's  ma  herself  at  the  door," 
said  Elizabeth's  companion,  "and," 
with  his  deep  laugh,  "she's  been  look- 
ing out  for  us  for  some  time,  I  surmise. 
Yes,  of  course,  run  ahead,  do,  and  I'll 
come  on  slower  with  the  satchel." 

Elizabeth  had  often  pictured  it  all 
since  receiving  the  letter,  thought  of 
her  coming  thus,  through  the  November 
twilight,  but  how  could  she  have 
imagined  her  rush  of  joy  as  she  was 
clasped  in  warm,  motherly  arms,  and 
drawn  into  the  spicy  interior! 

"Welcome,  dearie,  welcome,"  ex- 
claimed her  hostess;  and  Elizabeth's 
voice  was  a  trifle  shaky  as  she  clung 
to  her  lady  of  the  island,  and  said, 

"Why,  I  can't  tell  you  how  beauti- 
ful it  is  to  have  my  Thanksgiving  here 
with  you,  and  on  my  island,  my  dear 
island." 


A  *' Chair  of  Manners" 

By  Kate  Gannett  Wells 


WHY  is  it  that  courtesy  often 
seems  more  difficult  of  attain- 
ment than  the  getting  of 
understanding?  Is  it  true,  as  F. 
Hopkinson  Smith  is  reported  to  have 
said,  that  our  young  men  leave  college 
so  ignorant  of  good  manners   that   a 


"chair  of  manners"  should  be  estab- 
lished, by  which  boys  might  learn  the 
requisite  technical  duties  of  courtesy; 
to  a  hostess  for  instance,  failure  in  them 
proving  one  "as  far  and  perhaps  far- 
ther from  being  a  gentleman  as  would 
eating  pie  with  a  knife  at  her  table"? 


174 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


Alas!  girls  are  quite  as  deficient  in 
these  conventional  courtesies  as  bo3's. 
Some  fail  to  answer  an  invitation 
promptly,  others  may  reply,  at  once, 
but  do  not  know  how  to  arrange  the 
spacing  of  such  a  note  and  write  it 
right  along  until  it  is  ended.  Some 
lean  their  elbows  on  the  dinner  table, 
others  hold  their  knives  and  forks  mid- 
air while  passing  their  plates.  Some 
are  rough  and  ready  with  their  hostess, 
others  totally  ignore  her.  A  boy  may 
take  the  trouble  to  rise  the  first  time  a 
lady  comes  into  a  room,  but  he  con- 
siders it  a  useless  farce  to  keep  on  doing 
so  every  time  she  enters. 

Very  minor  mistakes  are  these  and 
other  details  of  lack  in  high  breeding 
compared  with  want  of  kindness  of 
heart,  arising  very  Hkely,  it  should  be 
acknowledged,  from  sheer  carelessness; 
being  in  a  hurry;  not  wanting  to  fuss 
and  not  seeing  that  persistent,  consist- 
ent courtesy  is  more  than  temporary 
poHteness.  For  courtesy  is  a  com- 
posite of  sympathy  of  heart,  tact  of 
brain  and  grace  of  body.  It  takes 
time  to  think  and  feel,  if  not  to  speak 
and  move. 

Yet  there  is  no  one  invariable  t3'pe 
of  manners  to  be  acquired  by  imitation, 
nor  should  good  manners  ever  be  con- 
fused with  their  counterfeit,  mannerism, 
which  is  superficial,  thinking  of  how 
one  appears  rather  than  of  what  one 
can  do  for  another.  Besides,  in  trying 
to  acquire  a  particular  st34e  in  manners, 
one  is  apt  to  make  them  perfunctory, 
a  disabled  presentment  of  one's  better 
self. 

George  Ticknor,  a  man  of  distin- 
guished and  consistent  courtesy,  the 
historian  of  Spanish  Hterature,  at  whose 
house  were  met  the  most  important 
men  and  women  of  Europe  as  well  as 
of  this  country,  was  once  asked  if  he 
did  not  get  tired  of  always  being  cour- 
teous to  his  wife,  his  daughters,  his 
friends,  his  acquaintances.  "Why," 
he  replied,  "if  I  did,  I  should  not  de- 
serve to  have  them;"  and  then  more 


soberly  he  added,  "I  owe  it  to  my 
Maker  to  be  courteous  to  all  whom  He 
has  made."  William  Thackeray's 
daughter  wrote  of  her  father:  "He  was 
never  familiar,  though  perfectly  simple 
and  natural.  His  courtesy  was  not  put 
on  like  a  Sunday  suit  and  laid  by  when 
the  company  went  away,  it  was  always 
the  same  whether  for  a  dinner  by  our- 
selves or  for  a  great  entertainment." 

All  the  same  a  dress  suit  for  dinner 
may  not  always  be  as  available  as  the 
recognition  of  each  other's  right  to 
courtes}^  of  manner.  It  is  so  soothing 
not  to  be  maltreated,  nor  regarded  with 
indifference,  nor  snubbed.  It  is  so 
gratifying  to  have  other  people  think 
we  are  somebodies.  It  is  so  encourag- 
ing to  fanc}^  we  can  manage  other 
people.  Yet  it  takes  a  combination  of 
virtues  and  interests  to  realize  that  we 
can  thus  succeed  only  by  the  exercise 
of  self-control ;  by  not  putting  ourselves 
forward ;  by  making  others  appear  well ; 
by  seeing  all  points  of  view,  even  if  we 
can  coincide  with  but  one;  and  always, 
agreeing  or  disagreeing,  by  being  sym- 
pathetic; not  leisurely  or  spasmodically 
sympathetic,  but  warmly,  gracefully, 
appreciatively  sympathetic,  without 
being  roughshod  in  expression  of  it. 
We  want  a  "wholesale  soul,  even  if  we 
do  a  retail  business." 

Very  serviceable  is  such  high,  noble 
courtesy  in  adjusting  the  familiarities 
of  marriage,  the  variations  in  temper 
and  temperament  among  relatives  and 
the  social  jars  in  domestic  service. 
Perhaps  it  is  only  by  such  courtesy  that 
households  can  escape  the  annoyances 
of  speciaHzed  service  that  is  taking  the 
place  of  general  housework,  which  when 
not  incompetent  was  economical  and 
comforting.  But  if  domestic  aristoc- 
racy lies  in  relegating  maids  exclusively 
to  their  work  and  their  da3^s  out,  there 
may  come,  already  is,  in  the  market 
women's  union  labor  for  household 
service.  Nor  will  it  be  a  long  stretch 
from  union  maids  to  recognition  of 
legal    compensation    for    injuries    re- 


CHESTNUTING  TIME 


175 


ceived  or  disease  contracted  in  the 
performance  of  household  work.  Maids 
can  have  measles  and  break  their 
wrists  as  well  as  children.  Sanitary 
regulations,  imperative  for  the  family, 
should  also  be  compulsory  for  the 
benefit  of  the  maids.  Overtime  work, 
the  bane  in  domestic  service,  should  be 
compensated  on  the  same  broad  princi- 
ples by  which  a  mother's  work,  freely 
accepted,  is  never  done.  It  is  only  by 
courteous  appreciation  of  perpetual 
labor  and  of  the  impracticability  of  an 
eight-hour  law  for  maids  that  we  can 
still  keep  our  individual  homes  and 
have  our  breakfasts  and  dinners  as  late 
as  we  please.  It  is  more  than  the  spirit 
of  justice  which  should  be  meted  out  to 
those  who  work  for  us  and  who,  it  is 
assumed,  must  not  lose  their  tempers, 
even  if  we  lose  ours.  Our  homes  are 
homes  for  them  only  when  they  feel  at 
home  all  over  the  house. 

This  high  type  of  courtesy  concerns 
not  manners  alone,  but  the  modes  in 
which  we  array  ourselves.  It  is  almost 
irreverent  to  wear  a  hobble  dress  to 
church.  It  is  as  bad  form  to  wear  the 
"intimate,"  revealing  dress  of  long 
lines    in    sinuous    draperies,  as    it    is 


execrable  to  wear  it  at  any  time.  The 
present  reintroduction  of  the  scarf  may 
be  unconsciously  due  to  the  extreme 
decoliette  dress  which  long  ago  Na- 
poleon so  disapproved  that  Josephine 
made  the  shawl  become  a  distinctive 
fashion  of  his  Empire,  saying,  "It  is 
part  of  myself,  I  suffer  when  taking  it 
off,  I  feel  undressed  without  it."  But 
then,  her  hundreds  of  shawls  varied  in 
price  from  600  to  800  pounds! 

After  all,  neither  dress  nor  manners 
can  be  effectively  prescribed  from  any 
college  chair  of  manners  or  from  any 
guidebook  to  etiquette.  Nor  is  it 
sufficient  help  that  they  be  formulated 
by  a  sincere  heart,  because  sincere 
persons  are  apt  to  hurt  our  feelings  and 
to  say  how  they  would  act  were  they  in 
our  place,  when,  if  they  were,  they 
would  feel  just  as  we  do.  Nevertheless, 
the  professional  chair  of  manners,  might 
aid  in  acquiring  that  invincible  eti- 
quette of  high  breeding  which  is 
but  the  adaptation  of  one's  best  self 
to  the  best  selves  of  others,  the  out- 
ward form  of  such  adaptation,  girded 
with  grace,  proceeding  from  sym- 
pathy and  the  sincerity  that  is  not 
aggressive. 


Chestnuting  Time 


Oh,  this  is  prime,  chestnuting  time 

Has  come  at  last,  and  so. 
While  fields  are  white  with  gleaming  rime, 

Into  the  woods  I  go, 
A  basket  on  my  arm  to  bear 

The  treasures    that  I  gain. 
Oh,  who  would  harbor  thoughts  of  care, 

And  who  deem  life  in  vain, 
While  merrily  the  crickets  call, 
And  cheerily  the  chestnuts  fall  ? 


I  climb  the  hill,  I  breathe  my  fill 

Of  pifngent  woodsy  air, 
An  antidote  for  every  ill 

From  grief  to  blank  despair. 
How  thick  they  lie  beneath  the  trees. 

How  plump  and  brown  they  seem! 
A  toothsome  dainty  each  of  these, 

Oh,  Life's  a  gourmand's  dream! 
While  merrily  the  crickets  call, 
And  cheerily  the  chestnuts  fall. 


I've  waited  long,  with  courage  strong, 

Through  Summer's  drought  and  heat, 
I've  heard  the  robin's  springtime  song, 

I've  watched  the  ripening  wheat. 
And  now  I  claim  my  well-won  right 

To  spend  the  glorious  day 
As  suits  me  best,  and  then  at  night 

To  bear  my  spoils  away. 
While  merrily  the  crickets  call, 
And  cheerily  the  chestnuts  fall.  L.  M. 


Innocents  Abroad 


A  True  Account  of  How  Four  Girls  Went  to  Europe 
By  H.  D.  Wilson 


WHEN  people  heard  that  Jane, 
Joan,  Marietta  and  I  were 
going  abroad  together  they 
looked  rather  dubious.  None  of  us 
were  many  years  past  twenty ;  we  were 
going  to  stay  three  months;  and  each 
had  just  five  hundred  dollars.  Some 
said,  "Won't  it  be  rather  disagreeable 
without  an  older  person?"  Others 
said,  "Isn't  it  lovely  you  can  go  all 
alone  like  that?"  meaning  just  the 
opposite;  and  others  merely  regarded 
us  with  a  curious  and  doubtful  eye. 
But  we  were  undeterred  by  the  lack 
of  enthusiasm  in  our  friends  and  went 
cheerfully  forward  with  our  simple 
preparations;  that  is,  Jane,  Joan  and 
I  did.  Marietta  was  engaged,  and  had 
periods  when  she  emptied  her  trunk 
and  bags  and  declared  she  couldn't 
think  of  going.  But  these  soon  passed 
and  she  became  excited  once  more 
over  making  muslin  cases  for  every- 
thing she  was  going  to  take,  for  her 
comb,  her  brush,  her  money,  and  so 
forth.  She  must  have  made  at  least 
twenty  of  them. 

Hoping  that  our  experiences  may 
prove  useful  to  other  girls  who  might 
take  such  a  trip,  I  am  going  to  tell 
something  of  our  preparations.  We 
had  three  trunks.  Two  of  these  we 
left  in  Liverpool  in  care  of  the  steam- 
ship company.  They  were  filled  with 
steamer  rugs,  sweaters  and  heavy  coats. 
The  other  trunk  we  took  with  us, 
leaving  it  at  different  places  and  send- 
it  on  ahead  while  we  traveled  with  suit- 
cases and  bags.  Marietta  and  Jane 
each  had  a  suit-case.  Joan  and  I  had 
decided  to  combine,  and  sallying  out 
one  day,  bought  what  the  salesman 
assured  us  was  the  only  thing  for 
European  travel,  a  large,  shiny  black 
affair  about  twice  as  big  as  a  suit-case 


and  holding  four  times  as  much.  Be- 
sides this  we  took  a  small  hand-bag 
between  us.  The  shiny  black  thing 
was  soon  dubbed  "the  elephant,"  for, 
as  Joan  and  I  are  both  rather  small,  it 
proved  horribly  awkward  when  there 
was  a  train  to  be  run  for  and  no  porter 
on  the  spot.  I  think  it  was  in  the 
Edinburgh  station  that  Joan  caused 
great  consternation  among  the  porters 
by  calling  out  wildly  that  the  elephant 
had  been  left  in  the  carriage.  I  be- 
lieve they  thought  we  were  a  small 
and  select  traveling  circus.  We  have 
decided  that  next  time  we  will  each 
take  a  wicker  suit-case,  no  hand-bags, 
and  if  possible  no  trunk  besides  the 
steamer  trunks. 

As  to  clothes,  the  starting  point 
was  a  plain  well-made  tailored  suit  to 
be  worn  every  day  and  all  day.  For 
these,  we  found  a  firm  gray  cloth  most 
satisfactory.  Jane  had  a  Panama  hat, 
which  got  very  rakish  before  the  jour- 
ney was  ended;  Joan  and  I,  three- 
cornered  riding  hats,  and  Marietta  a 
simple  toque.  We  decided  on  the 
toque  for  Marietta,  because  it  made 
her  look  older.  A  trimmed  hat  is 
absolutely  impossible,  for  it  becomes 
wilted  and  faded  within  a  month. 
Each  took  a  light  dress,  but  we  did  not 
wear  them  once,  not  even  when  we 
went  to  the  opera  in  Paris.  Of  course 
these  outfits  were  planned  with  a  view 
to  the  kind  of  a  trip  we  were  going  to 
take, — to  avoid  big  cities,  to  get  into 
the  byways  of  travel  and  to  be  out  of 
doors  as  much  as  possible.  We  took 
high  stout  boots  for  tramping  and 
lighter  oxfords  for  the  railroad  journeys. 
The  high  boots  proved  very  useful  on 
shipboard,  where  we  had  many  cold, 
windy  days. 

Jane  and  Joan  felt  that  appearances 


176 


INNOCENTS  ABROAD 


177 


were  much  against  them.  They  are 
very  small,  and,  try  as  they  would  to 
look  aged,  they  were  both  taken  for 
seventeen.  In  our  division  of  labor 
we  had  to  take  this  fact  into  account. 
Marietta  was  given  the  position  of 
figurehead  and  chaperon,  on  account  of 
her  dignity  of  appearance  and  the 
toque.  She  did  the  talking,  for  which 
she  was  carefully  coached  beforehand, 
for  she  was  so  interested  in  the  mails 
and  letter-writing  that  she  never  knew 
where  we  were  going  from  one  day  to 
the  next.  Joan,  having  a  head  for 
mathematics,  kept  the  accounts;  the 
luggage  fell  to  my  care,  and  Jane,  Joan 
and  I  together  arranged  the  routes  and 
bought  the  tickets.  Our  money  was  in 
the  form  of  American  express  checks, 
in  ten  and  twenty  dollar  denominations. 
These  are  convenient  and  can  be  cashed 
at  Cook's,  at  any  large  bank,  and  at 
hotels.  At  first  we  put  part  of  our 
money  into  a  common  fund,  from  which 
railroad  fares  and  hotel  bills  were  paid. 
But  we  found  that  this  complicated 
matters  somewhat,  because  we  didn't 
always  want  to  eat  exactly  the  same 
things,  and  we  felt  more  independent,  if 
each  one  controlled  her  own  pocketbook. 
At  first  money  loomed  large  upon 
the  horizon,  to  the  exclusion  of  some  of 
the  beauties  of  landscapes.  We  sailed 
from  Montreal,  on  the  steamship  Me- 
gantic  of  the  Dominion  Line,  for  which 
we  bought  second-class  passage  at  fifty 
dollars.  We  had  one  large  stateroom 
with  four  berths  and  were  quite  com- 
fortable, as  the  boat  was  a  perfectly 
new  one  with  all  the  latest  improve- 
ments. The  fact  that  we  were  not 
allowed  on  the  first-class  deck  only 
interested  us,  and  we  spent  many  hours 
on  our  upper  deck  looking  over  at  the 
rich  aristocrats  coming  from  their 
sumptuous  meals  and  parading  up  and 
.down  with  slow  dignity.  We  uttered 
many  socialistic  and  even  anarchistic 
sentiments  and  thrilled  at  the  thought 
of  being  of  "the  mass."  "The  mass," 
by  the  way,  consisted  for  the  most  part 


of  teachers,  clergymen  and  modest  hus- 
bands and  wives  with  large  families- 
The  number  of  children  was  remarkable. 
Joan  spent  a  great  deal  of  time  in  the 
stateroom  covering  sheets  of  paper 
with  figures.  After  much  computa- 
tion she  announced  that  we  had  nothing 
to  worry  about  as  far  as  money  was 
concerned;  that  we  were  perfectly  safe 
as  long  as  we  kept  within  the  limit  of 
five  dollars  a  day.  We  all  agreed  that 
would  be  easy,  for  we  had  heard  a  great 
deal  about  the  cheapness  of  living  in 
England. 

Before  we  started  we  joined  the  Wo- 
men's Rest  Tour  Association.  This 
Association  gives  a  list  of  lodgings  in 
all  European  countries,  which  have 
been  tried  by  members  of  the  society 
and  found  to  be  comfortable  and  in- 
expensive. When  we  first  landed,  to 
hunt  up  lodgings  in  strange  cities  was 
confusing,  and  so  in  Scotland  we  went 
to  the  station  hotels.  These  hotels  are 
owned  by  the  railroads,  and  are  con- 
nected with  the  large  stations  in  the 
various  cities.  They  are  very  good 
and  comparatively  reasonable  as  to 
rates.  Most  of  them  charge  eight  shil- 
lings for  the  night  and  plain  breakfast, 
or  four  shillings  a  day,  with  meals  as 
extras. 

The  week  in  Scotland  was  the  most 
expensive  of  our  trip.  We  went 
through  the  Trossachs  and  the  lakes, 
where  stop-offs  are  arranged  so  that 
dinners  costing  four  shillings  sixpence 
must  be  eaten  whether  one  likes  it  or 
not.  We  came  up  to  our  full  average 
of  five  dollars  a  day  during  that  time. 
But  we  had  some  heavenly  days,  when 
we  stayed  at  a  quaint  little  inn  at  the 
head  of  Loch  Katrine.  The  weather 
was  glorious;  the  air,  fresh  and  sweet 
with  heather,  fairly  swept  us  along  in 
our  walks  over  the  moors,  where  we 
met  no  living  thing  except  a  few  strag- 
gling sheep.  Even  the  poetry  of  the 
"Lady  of  the  Lake"  became  readable 
as  we  floated  on  the  clear  water  be- 
neath  the    shadow    of    Ben    Lomond. 


178 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


Jane  forgot  to  worry  about  the  cost  of 
boat  hire  as  she  dabbled  her  hand  in  the 
ripples  and  heard  how 

"The  stag  at  eve  had  drunk  his  fill 
Where  danced  the  moon  on  Monan's  rill, 
And  deep  his  midnight  lair  had  made 
In  lone  Glenartney's  hazel  shade." 

But  Jane  is  a  very  frugal  and  thrifty 
person  and  soon  began  to  object  to  our 
extravagance,  so  we  turned  to  our  list 
and  from  that  time  on  made  our  choice 
of  lodgings  from  it.  We  paid  from  five 
to  eight  shillings  a  day  for  pension 
prices  and  from  three  to  five  for  the 
night  and  plain  breakfast.  Our  luck 
varied  of  course.  In  Grasmere  we 
lived  for  two  weeks  at  a  charming  little 
hotel  and  had  delicious  meals  for  seven 
shillings  a  day.  While  here  we  spent 
a  couple  of  pounds  —  ten  dollars  —  on 
a  three  days'  coaching  trip;  and  Ma- 
rietta horrified  us  by  coming  home  one 
day  and  announcing  that  she  had  spent 
twenty  dollars  for  linens  at  the  Flax 
Home  Industry  shop.  I  was  compelled 
to  buy  a  copy  of  Wordsworth's  poems 
and  then  one  of  Coleridge's.  The 
poetry  seemed  to  soak  in  as  it  never  had 
at  college,  where  a  certain  number  of 
pages  had  to  be  gone  over  in  an  hour. 
One  of  the  nicest  things  to  me  about 
our  stay  in  Grasmere  was  the  sense  of 
reaUty  and  nearness  which  it  gave  me 
of  Wordsworth  and  all  those  who  were 
grouped  about  him.  Dorothy  Words- 
worth was,  to  me,  even  more  alive  than 
her  brother.  I  could  almost  see  her 
slender,  boyish  figure  and  gypsy-like 
face,  with  its  wild  black  eyes,  and  she 
walked  beside  me  over  many  paths 
well  known  to  her,  but  new  and  fas- 
cinating to  me.  Their  little  white  cot- 
tage was  embowered  in  great  luxuriant 
sweet  peas.  I  have  one  of  them 
now. 

To  offset  this  pleasant  Grasmere  ex- 
perience, we  stayed  at  a  little  farm- 
house near  Oare,  Devonshire,  in  the 
Loma  Doone  country.  The  people 
were  simple,  hospitable  farmers,  but  it 
rained  for  three  days ;  our  fare  consisted 


mainly  of  Devonshire  cream,  and  as  I 
slept  over  the  dairy,  I  felt  as  though 
I  had  been  soaked  in  it.  Although  we 
had  two  beautiful  walks  on  the  moors 
above  the  ocean,  we  were  glad  enough 
when  we  could  get  a  Httle  rickety  farm- 
cart  and  one  horse  to  carry  us  and  our 
trunk  away  from  the  scene  of  John  Ridd's 
adventures.  This  place,  by  the  way, 
was  not  on  the  Rest  Tour  list.  Our 
lodging  at  Clovelly  was,  and  we  found 
ourselves  most  comfortably  situated 
for  five  shillings  a  day.  We  had  our 
own  little  private  dining-room  and, 
though  there  was  no  bathroom,  our 
good  landlady  came  trotting  upstairs 
at  any  hour  to  fill  absurd  tin  baths  with 
hot  water.  Clovelly  is  a  little  fishing 
village,  one  cobbled  street  going  steeply 
down  to  the  sea,  Hned  with  quaint  white 
houses.  Many  years  ago  it  was  a  pirate 
stronghold  and  the  street  a  rushing 
stream,  but  now  the  people  are  simple 
kindly  folk,  as  sweet  and  genial  as 
their  long  summer  days.  We  tasted  of 
sea  bathing  here.  Joan  and  I  had 
brought  our  bathing  suits;  the  others 
had  not.  So  we  made  quick  changes 
in  our  rocky  retreat  along  the  shore. 
Jane  and  Marietta  found  wet  bathing 
suits  not  at  all  comfortable  and  would 
make  shrieking  dashes  for  the  water 
and  happiness. 

We  found  the  little  EngHsh  tea-shops 
a  boon.  They  were  so  quaint  and  clean, 
and  for  a  very  small  amount  of  money 
one  could  get  a  really  delicious  meal. 
We  missed  them  sadly  after  we  had 
crossed  the  channel,  although  inex- 
pensive comfort  still  came  our  way. 
At  Bruges  we  found  a  delightful  little 
inn  on  the  " Market  of  the  Eggs"  where 
we"  paid  four  francs  a  day.  The  floors 
were  sanded,  and  every  Saturday 
morning  the  peasants  came  from  far 
and  near  with  baskets  of  eggs,  which 
they  sold  at  stalls  set  up  in  front  of  the 
place.  This  scene  met  our  eyes  one 
early  morning,  after  a  night  of  Inferno, 
when  none  of  us  had  slept  a  wink  be- 
cause of  the  bells  in  Longfellow's  won- 


INNOCENTS  ABROAD 


179 


derful  belfry.  I  shall  never  read  that 
poem  again  with  any  comfort. 

At  Cologne  we  planned  and  bought 
Cook's  tickets  for  the  rest  of  our  trip. 
This  did  away  with  the  difficulty  of 
gathering,  in  a  foreign  language,  infor- 
mation as  to  routes  and  fares.  Joan 
and  Jane  spoke  German,  but  our  French 
was  mostly  lacking;  perhaps  that  is  the 
reason  why  we  conceived  such  an  in- 
tense hatred  for  French  porters  and 
railway  officials.  These  tickets  cost 
fifty-four  dollars  and  took  us  down  the 
Rhine  to  Coblenz,  Berne,  Geneva,  Paris, 
Calais,  Canterbury  and  London. 

Jane,  Joan  and  I  had  been  very  care- 
ful about  buying  things,  and  were 
shocked  at  Marietta's  extravagance  in 
purchases  of  embroidered  linen  and 
post-cards.  I  bought  pictures  and  good 
ones,  wherever  we  went,  and  I  am  very 
glad  of  it  now.  But  when  we  reached 
Cologne  we  decided  that  our  money 
was  holding  out  wonderfully  well,  so 
we  had  a  shopping  orgy.  We  bought 
the  most  exquisite  leather  things  at 
ridiculous  prices,  and  some  silver. 
When  we  reached  Switzerland,  Ma- 
rietta began  buying  the  hand-made 
lace.  Every  time  she  went  out  she 
returned  with  a  yard  of  some  new 
pattern.  Jane,  interested  in  sociology, 
often  went  with  her,  in  order  to  examine 
the  little  homes  where  all  the  feminine 
portion  of  the  family,  from  the  totter- 
ing grandmother  to  the  baby,  sat  bent 
over  their  lace-making,  fingers  moving 
with  marvelous  rapidity. 

In  the  Lauterbrunnen  valley,  where 
we  stayed  for  ten  days,  we  struck  an- 
other marvel  of  cheapness  and  luxury. 
We  had  four  little  rooms  opening  on  a 
balcony,  which  looked  towards  the 
graceful  Staubach  falls.  Here  we  ate 
our  breakfast  of  rolls,  honey  and  coffee, 
as  we  watched  the  morning  sunshine 
upon  the  white  glory  of  the  Jungfrau. 
We  had  the  most  elaborate  course  meals 
at  noon  and  night  — and  all  this  for 
seven  francs  a  day.  A  franc  is  twenty 
cpn+-      T  _  aterbrunnen    made    famous 


pedestrians  of  Jane,  Joan  and  me. 
Marietta  preferred  sitting  upon  the 
balcony,  dreaming,  reading  —  and  writ- 
ing letters.  But  there  were  so  many 
wonderful  things  to  see  and  such  a 
spice  of  excitement  in  not  knowing 
just  where  we  were  going,  that  we  spent 
the  days  climbing  and  tramping.  At 
Zermatt,  Joan  and  I  tried  to  explore 
the  end  of  the  Gomer  glacier,  and  only 
great  blue  chasms  in  the  ice,  with  water 
trickling  weirdly  and  treacherously 
beneath,  drove  us  back.  Jane  saw  no 
reason  why  she  should  not  climb  the 
Matterhom,  and  grew  quite  provoked 
when  I  told  her  it  was  impossible. 
Finding  argument  useless,  I  merely  ad- 
vised her  to  try  a  small  mountain  first. 
She  did,  and  came  back  at  dinner-time 
dead  tired,  after  going  a  third  of  the 
way.  She  never  mentioned  the  Mat- 
terhom again.  Distances  and  powers 
of  endurance  are  deceptive  in  that  high 
altitude,  one  feels  so  light  and  strong. 
We  all  loved  Switzerland,  but  the  peo- 
ple, especially  the  mountain  dwellers 
in  the  Lauterbrunnen  and  about  Zer- 
matt, were  a  thin,  dark-skinned  race, 
with  fierce  faces  and  strange,  silent 
ways.     They  rather  frightened  us. 

We  had  intended  leaving  Paris  out  of 
our  itinerary,  but  we  were  there  for 
three  days.  We  parted  with  what 
seemed  to  us  large  sums  of  money,  for 
we  went  to  the  opera,  bought  scarfs 
and  silks  at  Liberty's  store,  and 
stayed  at  a  hotel  where  we  paid 
eighteen  francs  a  day  for  our  rooms. 
We  felt  excited  and  wildly  extravagant 
during  the  whole  time.  It  was  here 
that  Jane  covered  herself  with  glory 
by  tipping  the  owner  of  the  hotel  in- 
stead of  the  concierge.  She  sailed  out 
with  a  grand  air  as  she  did  it,  and  not 
until  we  discovered  the  concierge  riding 
on  the  box  of  the  carriage  did  we  realize 
into  whose  hands  our  precious  five-franc 
piece  had  gone.  Then,  of  course,  we 
had  to  hunt  up  another.  Jane  has 
never  recovered  from  the  blow.  The 
question    of   tipping   was    a    constant 


180 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


source  of  annoyance.  We  never  knew 
how  much  to  give,  and  each  of  us  con- 
fessed to  a  feeUng  of  shamefacedness 
when  we  had  to  sHp  a  franc  into  the 
hand  of  some  august-looking  personage 
with  a  beard  and  a  dress  suit.  We 
usually  forced  this  duty  upon  Marietta, 
pointing  out  the  toque  as  our  excuse  for 
so  doing. 

One  great  advantage  we  gained  by 
avoiding  large  hotels, — we  learned 
something  of  the  people  of  each  coun- 
try and  their  ways.  The  ordinary 
traveler  sees  Americans  at  his  hotels, 
hears  their  talk  and  is  carefully  served 
and  fed  after  American  fashion,  with 
the  result  that  he  knows  only  the  mere 
outside  of  European  countries.  In  some 
of  our  lodgings  we  were  the  only  Ameri- 
cans, and  we  were  always  glad  of  it. 
We  learned  many  new  things,  and 
Marietta  especially,  because  of  a  sym- 
pathetic manner,  held  long  conversa- 
tions with  our  fellow-lodgers  and  ac- 
quaintances. These  she  reported  to  us 
in  detail,  imparting  much  valuable  infor- 
mation. An  old  fisherman  told  her  all 
about  Clovelly ;  how  it  had  been  a  pirate 
town,  and  showed  her  where  illicit  gold 
had  been  hidden  under  different  houses. 

London  came  near  the  end  of  our 
trip,  and  here,  while  Marietta  haunted 
the  American  Express  office  for  mail, 
Jane,  Joan  and  I  sat  down  and  took 
stock  of  our  finances.  We  were  really 
surprised  when  we  considered  what  we 
had  done.  We  had  seen  the  Scotch 
and  English  lake  districts,  Devonshire, 
a  little  of  Belgium  and  Germany,  had 


been  down  the  Rhine,  and  spent  a 
month  in  Switzerland  and  three  days 
in  Paris.  None  of  us  had  been  sick  a 
day,  had  all  had  enough  to  eat,  and 
had  lost  ourselves  only  twice.  Con- 
trary to  the  expectations  of  some  of 
our  friends,  we  had  felt  no  lack  of  a 
chaperon.  Any  trouble  we  had  with 
porters  and  railway  guards  occurred, 
not  because  we  were  girls  traveling 
alone,  but  because  we  were  mere  girls 
and  as  such  too  unimportant  to  be 
noticed  by  a  busy  man  with  an  official 
badge  on  his  important  looking  hat. 
But  for  the  most  part  our  wants  were 
attended  to  with  the  greatest  respect 
and  celerity;  often  people  went  out  of 
their  way  to  be  kind  to  us.  Moreover 
we  were  going  to  arrive  in  America 
with  a  small  margin  of  money,  al- 
though each  of  us  had  bought  at  least 
fifty  dollars'  worth  of  things.  Joan, 
after  half  an  hour  spent  in  silence  with 
a  pencil  and  paper,  announced  that  we 
could  have  made  it  easily  on  four  hun- 
dred dollars,  and  that  Jane  could  prob- 
ably do  it  on  three  hundred  and  fifty. 
We  had  bought  our  return  tickets  for 
the  steamer  before  we  started,  so  that 
didn't  trouble  us.  We  came  back  on 
the  Dominion,  a  small  boat,  and  all  in 
the  same  class.  The  fare  was  fifty-five 
dollars,  but  I  preferred  the  second 
class  on  the  Megantic,  even  though  we 
were  shut  off  from  the  first-cabin  deck 
room.  An  anxious  family  met  us  at 
Quebec,  where  an  incredulous  father 
received  a  letter  of  credit  for  a  thousand 
dollars,  which  had  not  been  touched. 


B? 


The  Third  Meal 

By  L.  H. 


LESS  you!"  exclaimed  Alice,  as 
she  unfolded  her  napkin,  "how 
do  love  to  be  invited  out  to 
lunch!" 

We  all  looked  at  her  questioningly, 
and  she  continued  with  some  embarrass- 


ment, "You  see  —  the  thing  is  —  I 
never  bother  to  get  myself  any  lunch 
at  home.  I  take  a  cracker  in  one  hand 
and  a  glass  of  milk  in  the  other  and  eat 
and  drink  walking  up  and  down  the 
kitchen  floor.     Sometimes  I  swallow  a 


THE  THIRD  MEAL 


181 


raw  egg  whole.  I  learned  to  do  that 
when  I  was  getting  over  grippe.  It  is  very 
nutritious  and  doesn't  make    dishes." 

"But,  don't  you  get  starved  before 
dinner?"  asked  Peggy. 

"Why,  yes,  sometimes.  Then  I 
make  myself  a  cup  of  tea  the  last  of 
the  afternoon.  I  don't  wan't  you  girls 
to  think  I'm  a  shiftless  sort  of  house- 
keeper. I  get  Jack  a  nice  breakfast 
and  dinner  and  I  really  enjoy  cooking 
good  things  and  making  the  table  look 
dainty.  But  somehow,  when  it  comes 
to  setting  and  unsetting  that  table  for 
the  third  time,  I  simply  can't  do  it." 

"I  know  just  how  you  feel,"  chimed 
in  Betty.  "Nothing  would  induce  me 
to  get  three  whole  meals  a  day.  I  like 
housework,  but  I'm  awfully  slow  at  it. 
By  the  time  I've  gotten  the  house  in 
order  and  perhaps  a  dessert  made  and 
the  vegetables  ready  for  dinner  it's 
nearly  noon,  and  I  actually  haven't  the 
courage  to  go  right  to  work  to  get 
lunch  for  myself.  So  I  put  on  my 
things  and  go  over  to  mother's." 

"Way  over  there?"  gasped  Miriam. 
"Why,  it's  almost  an  hour's  ride,  isn't 
it?" 

"Yes,  just  about,  but  I  like  to  see 
mother  and  I  always  walk  part  way 
home,  which  is  about  all  the  outdoors  I 
get,  so  I  salve  my  conscience  as  best 
I  can." 

"I'm  a  coward  about  lunch,  too," 
confessed  Amy.  "I  hate  getting  it 
ready  and  I  hate  sitting  down  in  the 
dining-room  and  eating  it  all  alone.  I 
prepare  my  lunch  while  I'm  clearing 
away  breakfast.  I  spread  some  bread 
and  boil  an  egg  hard,  or  if  I  have  cold 
meat  or  cheese  on  hand  I  make  sand- 
wiches. At  noon  I  put  it  on  a  tray 
and  carry  it  wherever  I  choose.  In  the 
summer  I  usually  eat  it  on  the  back 
piazza,  but  at  this  time  of  year  I  sit 
by  the  living-room  window.  There  is 
plenty  of  passing,  so  it  doesn't  seem 
lonely,  and  I'm  interested  in  watching 
people,  so  I  don't  eat  too  fast,  which  is 
always  the  danger  when  one  eats  alone." 


"I've  often  wished  we  could  live  on 
two  meals  a  day,"  Elsie  now  took  up  the 
burden  of  the  song.  "Ethel  Brooks  is 
on  a  no-lunch  diet  and  I  do  envy  her, 
though  she  has  a  maid  and  needn't  get 
her  own  lunches  anyway.  I  tried  going 
without  mine  for  nearly  a  week,  but  it 
made  me  feel  queer  and  I  had  to  stop. 
I'll  tell  you  how  I  get  around  the  ques- 
tion now,  girls.  You  know  I  go  down 
town  to  the  big  market  three  times  a 
week  and  I  plan  to  get  there  about 
noon.  Then,  when  I've  finished  my 
marketing,  I  go  into  a  little  restaurant 
near  there  and  get  a  cup  of  coffee  and 
a  roll;  it  only  costs  ten  cents.  Some- 
times I'm  extravagant  and  buy  a 
fifteen-cent  lunch,  but  I  never  spend 
more  than  that.  It's  such  a  comfort, 
when  I  get  my  kitchen  all  cleaned  up  in 
the  morning,  to  know  that  it's  going  to 
stay  that  way  until  dinner  time." 

"I  know,"  said  Peggy.  "I  used  to 
try  to  get  out  of  getting  lunch  myself. 
Somehow  it  was  the  last  straw  that 
broke  my  housekeeping  back.  I'd  put 
a  few  cold  fragments  on  the  comer  of 
the  kitchen  table  and  wash  them  down 
with  tea,  or  I'd  drink  the  coffee  left  over 
from  breakfast  and  eat  with  it  any  odds 
and  ends  of  pie  or  cake  I  happened  to 
have  left.  But  I  gave  that  up  years 
ago.  It  really  is  no  more  trouble  to 
bake  a  potato  and  cook  a  bit  of  Ham- 
burg steak  or  bacon  than  it  is  to  make 
tea  and  sandwiches.  And  you  feel  so 
much  more  self-respecting,  when  you 
sit  down  to  such  a  meal  and  so  much 
better  nourished  when  you  get  up  from  it . 
I  don't  expect  you  girls  to  agree  with 
me  now,  but  in  the  course  of  time  Alice 
will  tire  of  that  hungry-in-the-after- 
noon  sensation,  Betty  will  be  too  busy 
to  run  over  to  mother's  every  day,  and 
peripatetic  sandwiches  will  pall  on  Amy. 
Then  you  will  realize  that  if  you've 
got  anything  to  do  you  might  as  well 
roll  up  your  sleeves  and  do  it  thoroughly. 
I  think  young  housekeepers  make  them- 
selves no  end  of  trouble  by  trying  to 
save  themselves  trouble." 


182 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


THE 

BOSTON     COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OP 

Culinary  Science  and  Domestic    Economics 
Janet  McKenzie  Hill,  Editor 

PUBLISHED   TEN  TIMES   A   YEAR 

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Nature's  Songs 


Sweet  April  with  her  showers 

And  blossoms  wild  and  wet. 
Sings  to  the  dancing  meter 

Of  dainty  triolet. 

June  is  a  lovely  lyric; 

Her  flowers  are  tuneful  rhymes ; 
Her  birds  and  bees  and  trees  and  grass 

All  flow  in  gracious  lines. 

September,  softly  sleeping 

Beneath  a»  brooding  sky. 
Intones,  with  misty  weeping, 

A  solemn  elegy. 

But  when  December's  icy  winds 

About  the  earth  are  whirled. 
The  splendid  epic  of  the  storm 

Sings  to  the  frost-bound  world. 

Helen  Coale  Crew 


INDUSTRIAL  EDUCATION 

INTEREST  in  home  economics  is 
rapidly  increasing.  Teachers'  Col- 
lege, Pratt  and  Drexel  Institutes, 
many  of  the  State  universities  and  other 
educational  institutions  are  providing 
extensive  and  excellent  courses  in 
Domestic  Science  and  Household  Arts. 
Surely  at  the  present  time  young 
women  have  large  opportunities  to 
procure  special  training  in  the  most 
important  subjects  that  concern  home 
Hfe. 

Pure  food,  proper  feeding  or  dietetics 
are  receiving  a  vast  deal  more  atten- 
tion today  than  ever  before.  A  few 
years  ago  people  in  general  partook  of 
their  food  with  little  thought,  and 
largely  as  appetite  dictated ,  — a  practice , 
no  doubt,  that  proved  successful  in  a 
large  number  of  cases  and  destructive 
in  many  another.  Nowadays  people 
in  ever-increasing  numbers  want  to 
know  how  their  food  has  been  kept, 
handled  and  prepared  for  the  table,  in 
short,  just  what  they  are  eating.  The 
scientific  rather  than  the  haphazard 
way  has  invaded  the  household. 

In  many  places,  where  food  is  dis- 
pensed to  large  numbers,  the  composition 
and  relative  value  of  food  products 
are  considered,  and,  as  the  daily  diet  is 
made  up,  it  is  based  upon  the  conclu- 
sions of  the  chemist  and  the  economist. 

The  education  of  today  is  not  that 
of  yesterday.  Like  all  things  else,  it 
has  changed.  The  significance  of  the 
subjects  taught  in  the  schools  has  been 
changed.  What  is  now  thought  of 
greatest  worth  in  education  is  not  that 
so  considered  in  the  past.  In  fact, 
in  recent  years  the  objective  point  of 
all  living  has  been  changed.  May  not 
this  objective,  as  now  conceived,  be 
stated  to  be  continued  good  health 
as  the  essential  condition  of  all  other 
attainments  ? 

The  inference  seems  plain  that,  what- 
ever goes  to  make  up  the  complete 
education  of  woman,  her  special  train- 


EDITORIALS 


183 


ing  should  be  in  the  line  of  household 
management.  Foremost  in  the  educa- 
tional thought  of  the  day  comes  in- 
dustrial training.  For  women  indus- 
trial training  should  be  in  matters  that 
concentrate  about  the  home. 

THINGS   WE    SHOULD    NOT    SAY 

THERE  are  many  times  that  we 
understand  why  we  stray  into 
wrong  paths,  much  as  we  after- 
ward disapprove  of  such  wandering,  — 
such  paths  have  at  the  moment  seemed 
to  us  the  pleasantest,  and,  by  a  fallacy, 
we  have  persuaded  ourselves  that  they 
will  bring  us  into  the  right  way  again, 
or  that  we  can  easily  get  back  there. 

But  in  regard  to  words  there  is  no 
such  excuse.  It  is  as  easy  to  say 
the  right  word  or  phrase  as  the  wrong 
one,  sometimes  even  easier.  Yet  in- 
correct speech  in  those  who  rank  as 
educated  persons  is  not  only  a  habit, 
it  has  grown  to  be  a  custom;  perhaps 
it  always  was  so.  It  is  not  improbable, 
though,  that  we  are  more  near  the 
right  phrasing  than  we  were  a  century 
ago,  and  that  the  end  of  the  twentieth 
century  may  see  us  far  in  advance  of 
where  we  are  today.  But  if  we  are  to 
advance,  let  us  start  at  once. 

When  a  boy  or  a  girl,  who  has  had 
perhaps,  a  year  at  the  high  school,  talks 
about  "those  kind  of  things,"  the 
persons  whose  ears  are  offended  may 
frown,  but  they  must  excuse  the  error. 
But  when  a  college  senior  talks  about 
"those  kind  of  things,"  what  excuse 
can  there  be?  A  liberal  education 
should  be  able  to  revise  the  details  of 
everyday  Hfe  and  of  everyday  phrasing. 

The  English  language,  in  spite  of 
its  many  difficulties  and  perplexities, 
is  yet  remarkably  clear  of  the  pitfalls 
of  plural  forms  accompanying,  in  the 
capacity  of  adjectives,  plural  nouns. 
For  this  very  reason  the  few  that  it 
has  should  be  all  the  more  carefully 
observed :  this  —  these ;  that  —  those ; 
this  kind  — these  kinds;  that  sort  — 
those    sorts.     Yet   we    are    constantly 


hearing  "these"  and  "those,"  the 
plural  forms,  used  with  the  noun  in  the 
singular,  —  "these  kind  of  things," 
"those  sort  of  people."  The  right  way 
is  so  simple,  it  seems  as  if  in  sheer  love 
of  the  wrong  one  must  have  chosen  it! 
"Those  kind"!  It  jars  on  the  ear 
like  a  false  note  in  music. 

The  newspapers  are  fond  of  printing 
announcements  like  the  following:  "  Mrs. 
Beacon-Hill,  president  of  the  Cosmos 
Club,  was  given  a  large  and  brilliant 
reception  last  evening," 

Now,  the  passive  verb,  having  its 
subject  as  its  object  —  that  subject 
being  acted  upon,  —  cannot  take  what 
follows  it  as  its  object;  this  must  be 
controlled  by  a  preposition  expressed 
or  understood.  The  above  sentence, 
fully  rendered,  would  read:  "Mrs. 
Beacon-Hill,  president  of  the  Cosmos 
Club,  was  given  to  a  large  and  brilliant 
reception  last  evening."  We  all  know 
that  what  was  given  was  the  reception, 
and  that  it  was  given  to  Mrs.  Beacon- 
Hill,  not  she  to  it.  Then  why  not  say 
so? 

Again:  "He  was  promised  a  large 
sum  of  money,"  instead  of,  "A  large 
sum  of  money  was  promised  him  (or 
to  him) .  "  "  She  was  thrown  a  magnifi- 
cent bouquet."  Now,  no  one  would 
say  out  fully  that  such  a  lady  was 
thrown  to  a  bouquet ;  but  it  is  only  our 
consciousness  of  the  absurdity  of  such 
a  supposition  and  the  fi^pquency  of 
phraseology  like  this  that  keep  us 
from  the  conclusion  implied  in  the 
form. 

Our  dear  and  blessed  word  "begin," 
without  which  the  Anglo-Saxon  could 
never  have  begun  to  rule  so  much  of 
the  world  as  he  does,  is  frequently 
superseded  by  the  word  of  French 
origin,  "commence."  But  this  cour- 
tier's word  has  not  the  range  of  its 
compeer  of  our  mother  tongue,  although 
both  in  speech  and  print  it  is  often  as- 
sumed to  be  so.  We  may  "begin"  a 
book,  or  "begin  to  read"  a  book,  with 
equal   correctness.     But   although   we 


184 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


may  "commence"  a  book,  we  cannot 
properly  "commence  to  read,  to  walk, 
to  dance,  to  sing,"  in  short,  to  do  any- 
thing which  requires  an  infinitive  to 
express  it,  for  "commence"  should  not 
be  followed  by  an  infinitive.  As  has 
just  been  stated,  however,  this  rule 
is  very  often  violated,  and  sometimes 
by  good  writers;  still  it  remains  a  rule. 
Between  "like"  and  "love"  there 
is  the  same  distinction.  One  may 
"love  study,  books,  play,  walking;" 
but  not  "love  to  study,  read,  play, 
walk,"  or  to  do  anything  that  must 
be  expressed  by  an  infinitive. 

If  the  example  of  the  king  pouring 
tea  into  his  saucer,  in  order  not  to  em- 
barrass the  guest  who  had  ignorantly 
done  this,  is  to  be  followed,  we  shall 
find  ourselves  constantly  saying,  "it 
was  me,"  "it  was  him,"  and  other 
phrases  of  this  nature;  and  we  shall 
frequently  make  use  of  the  double 
negative,  "I  wasn't  but  a  little  way 
ofl";  "it  wasn't  but  a  little  thing"; 
"he  hasn't  but  one  arm." 

A  lady,  vehemently  challenging  a 
friend  who  had  used  the  expression, 
"and  the  like  of  that,"  strove  to  make 
her  correction  the  better  remembered 
by  adding,  "Don't  you  never  let  me 
hear  you  say  that  again! " 

The  colloquial  form  of  expressing 
judgment  has  more  decision  than 
elegance:  "It  ain't  right."  And  that 
of  expressing  uncertainty  more  facility 
than  grace:  "I  don't  know  as  I  can  go." 
Illustrating  the  use  of  the  plural  verb 
with  the  singular  pronoun,  the  state- 
ment, "He  don't  want  to  learn  any 
more,"  may  be  made  by  a  commenta- 
tor who,  evidently,  has  not  learned 
enough. 

Why  cultivate  a  child's  ear  for  song, 
and  not  also  for  spoken  words,  which 
play  a  still  larger  part  in  his  life  ? 

For  not  beauty,  or  grace  of  carriage, 
or  dress,  although  all  these  things  have 
weight,  can  give  to  man  or  woman 
the  control  over  other  human  beings 
which  lies  in  a  voice  finely  trained  and 


in  words  uttered  by  those  who  know 
their  power  and  dare  to  use  it. 

Yet  ease  in  conversation  is  never  to 
be  foregone.  Stiffness  here  is  as  awk- 
ward as  in  movement.  One  would 
rather,  perhaps,  even  walk  over  on  the 
grass  a  little,  now  and  then,  than  seem 
always  in  terror  of  doing  so.  But 
happy  are  they  who  know  how  to 
walk  the  path  of  elegance  with  dignity 
and  grace. 

Frances  Campbell  Sparhawk. 


"  From  reading  the  magazine  articles 
of  speciahsts  and  the  editorials  of  the 
daily  papers  no  one  can  get  any  proper 
idea  of  the  condition  of  things  in  the 
United  States.  Much  less  can  one  in- 
form himself  concerning  social  needs 
and  opportunities  by  listening  to  the 
sermons  and  speeches  of  those  who  are 
making  a  specialty  of  condemning  so- 
ciety and  criticising  the  Church.  But 
from  those  news  items  which  are  not 
doctored  and  the  general  reports  which 
are  not  used  for  a  purpose,  one  can 
easily  learn  that  the  majority  of  the 
people  of  the  United  States  are  pros- 
perous, contented  and  happy  beyond 
anything  ever  known  before  in  this 
country  or  in  the  world  at  large.  The 
contests  between  capital  and  the  labor 
unions  really  affect  only  a  small  por- 
tion of  the  miUions  of  people  who  in- 
habit the  United  States,  and  who  are 
quietly  attending  to  their  daily  tasks, 
reaping  the  rewards  of  industry  and 
spending  their  earnings  as  honest  men 
in  the  improvement  of  social  conditions 
and  the  comfort  and  education  of  their 
families." 

"Why  do  the  proprietors  of  the^ 
magazines  spend  so  much  money  for 
naught  on  showy  cover  designs?" 

"On  what  terms  are  books  printed 
that  so  many  are  put  upon  the  mailet 
which  have  no  selling  value  and  can 
never  give  a  return  to  the  author?" 




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F^" 

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^    '    *^ 

<■ 

ir:«i 

jy  -^  ^^irtl 

^^.^.^ 

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Roasted  Chickens,  Ends  of  Drumsticks  Covered  with  Red  Apples 


Seasonable  Recipes 

By  Janet  M.  Hill 

IN  all  recipes  where  flour  is  used,  unless  otherwise  stated,  the  flour  is  measured  after  sifting 
once.  When  flour  is  measured  by  cups,  the  cup  is  filled  with  a  spoon,  and  a  level  cupful 
is  meant.  A  tablespoonful  or  a  teaspoonful  of  any  designated  material  is  a  level  spoonful 
of  such  material. 


Cream-of-Clam  Soup   (to  serve  six) 

CHOP  one  pint  of  clams;  add  a 
cup  of  cold  water  and  let  heat 
gradually  to  the  boiling  point; 
let  simmer  about  fifteen  minutes,  then 
press  through  a  fine  sieve.  Scald  one 
quart  of  milk  with  half  an  onion,  a 
sprig  of  parsley  and  a  stalk  of  celery. 
Melt  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter;  in  it 
cook  one-fourth  a  cup  of  flour,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  pepper;  when  frothy  add  the 
clam  puree  and  stir  until  boiling. 
Strain  in  the  milk  and,  if  at  hand,  add 
also  half  a  cup  of  cream. 

^ream-of-Celery  Soup 

^  same  proportions  as  above, 
-cUting  celery  puree  for  the  clam 


puree.  The  celery  (leaves  and  coarse 
stalks)  will  need  to  simmer  an  hour  or 
more. 

Chestnut  Soup 

Cut  a  slit  in  the  shells  of  a  pint  of 
chestnuts,  cover  with  boiling  water 
and  let  boil  two  minutes;  drain  thor- 
oughly, add  a  teaspoonful  of  dripping 
and  shake  over  a  quick  fire  five  minutes ; 
cover  with  a  cloth  to  keep  them  hot 
while  the  shells  and  skin  are  removed. 
Put  the  chestnuts  in  a  stewpan  with  a 
quart  of  beef  broth  or  broth  made 
from  game.  Let  simmer  until  the 
chestnuts  are  tender  and  press  through 
a  sieve;  add  more  broth,  if  needed,  also 
salt  and  pepper,  and  stir  over  the  fire 
until  boiling;  remove  to  a  cooler  place 
and  stir  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  three 


185 


186 


THE   BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


eggs,  mixed  with  half  a  cup  of  cream. 
Serve  at  once  with  bread  croutons. 

Cream-of-Chestnut  Soup 

Cook,  shell  and  blanch  one  pint  of 
chestnuts  as  in  preceding  recipe. 
Cook  tender  in  water  or  chicken  broth 
and  press  through  a  sieve;  add  more 
broth,  salt  and  pepper  as  needed. 
Melt  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter;  in  it 
cook  one-fourth  a  cup  of  flour,  add  a 
cup  of  milk  and  a  cup  of  cream  and  stir 


the  range  and  gradually  stir  in  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  cut  in  small 
pieces;  finish  with  a  hard-cooked 
egg,  chopped  fine  or  cut  in  slices. 

Crabflake  Croquettes 

Melt  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter;  in 
it  cook  half  a  cup  of  flour  and  a  scant 
half-teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt  and  pa- 
prika; add  one  cup  of  fish  or  chicken 
broth  or  milk  and  one-third  a  cup  of 
cream   and   stir  until  boiling;   remove 


Hot  Canned  Salmon,  Egg  Sauce 


until  boiling,  then  add  to  the  broth,  stir 
until  the  whole  is  boiling  and  serve  at 
once. 

Hot  Canned  Salmon,  Egg  Sauce 
Set  a  can  of  salmon  in  a  saucepan  of 
boiling  water  over  the  fire  and  let  the 
water  simmer  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes , 
open  the  can  close  to  the  edge,  drain 
off  the  liquid,  then  turn  the  salmon  on 
to  the  center  of  a  serving  dish.  Sur- 
round with  potatoes,  cut  in  lengthwise 
quarters  or  in  balls,  cooked  tender  and 
drained.  Garnish  with  a  hard-cooked 
egg,  cut  in  quarters.  Serve  egg  sauce 
in  a  sauce  boat. 

Egg  Sauce 
Melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter; 
in  it  cook  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
and  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  salt; 
add  one  cup  of  cold  water  and  stir 
until  boiling;  draw  to  a  cooler  part  of 


to  a  cooler  place  and  stir  in  one  egg, 
beaten  light;  stir  over  the  fire,  without 
boiling,  until  the  egg  is  set,  then  fold 
in  one  cup  and  a  half  of  crabflakes. 
Turn  into  a  shallow  dish  and  set  aside 
to  become  firm.  Form  into  cylinder 
or  other  shapes,  egg -and-bread  crumb 
and  fry  in  deep  fat.  Drain  on  soft 
paper.  Serve  at  once.  Oysters  or 
clams  parboiled,  drained  and  cut  in 
pieces,  cooked  lobster,  fish,  chicken, 
veal  or  sweetbreads  may  be  used  in 
place  of  the  crabflakes. 

Creamed  Fish  in  Potato  Cassolettes 

Press  hot,  boiled  potatoes  through  a 
ricer;  add  salt  as  needed,  also  one  or 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  for  each 
quart  of  potato  and,  if  convenient,  one 
or  two  beaten  yolks  of  eggs.  Beat  the 
mixture  very  thoroughly,  and  if  too  dry 
to  shape  easily  add  a  little  hot  milk  or 
cream.     Shape  the  mixture  into  rounoo, 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


187 


ovals  or  diamond  shapes.  Roll  them 
in  sifted  bread  crumbs,  cover  with 
beaten  egg,  diluted  with  an  equal 
measure   of   milk,    then   again   roll   in 

crumbs.      With    a 

sharp-pointed  knife 
score  the  top  of  each 
shape  one-fourth  an 
inch  from  the  edge,  to 
form  a  cover  that  may 
be  removed  after  the 
croquette  is  fried.  Fry 
in  deep  fat;  run  the 
point  of  the  knife 
around  the  scoring 
and  lift  up  the  cover 
and  carefully  remove 
the  potato,  to  leave  a 
hollow  shell.  Fill  with  cooked  fish,  flaked 
and  made  hot  in  a  cream  or  fish  Becha- 
mel sauce.  Use  one  cup  of  fish  to  each 
three-fourths  a  cup  of  sauce.  Set  the 
covers  in  place  and  serve  at  once. 

Chicken  Pie,  Biscuit  Crust 

Separate  a  three-pound  chicken  into 
pieces  at  the  joints.  Wash  carefully, 
cover  with  boiling  water,  let  boil  five  or 
six  minutes,  then  let  simmer  until  ten- 
der. The  chicken  will  cook  in  from  an 
hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours.  Add 
salt  near  the  last  of  the  cooking.  Let 
the  chicken  become  cold.  For  the 
crust  sift  together  four  cups  of  pastry 
flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  four 
slightly  rounding  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing powder.  Work  in 
one-fourth  a  cup  of 
shortening,  then  mix 
to  a  dough  with  milk. 
Take  two-thirds  of  the 
paste  upon  a  board 
dredged  with  flour, 
knead  slightly,  then 
roll  out  to  fit  a  baking 
dish  large  enough  to 
hold  the  chicken.  Roll 
the  rest  of  the  paste 
into  a  sheet,  spread 
with  softened  butter, 
and     fold     in      three 


layers;  roll  to  fit  the  top  of  the 
dish.  Cut  a  slit  in  the  top  of  the 
crust.  Put  the  pieces  of  chicken 
in     the     lined     dish.     Sprinkle    in     a 


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Creamed  Fish  ix  Potato  Cassolettes 


teaspoonful  of  salt  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  black  pepper  and  two 
or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour. 
Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
in  little  bits,  as  the  chicken  is 
put  in.  Have  ready  a  sauce  made 
of  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter, 
three  of  flour,  one  cup  of  cream 
and  the  chicken  broth.  The  sauce 
should  be  cold.  Turn  this  into  the 
dish  over  the  chicken.  Brush  the 
edge  of  the  paste  with  cold  water  and 
set  the  cover  in  place.  Ornament  the 
cover  with  bits  of  paste,  cut  in  crescents, 
if  it  be  convenient.  Set  into  a  well- 
heated  oven,  cover  with  a  buttered 
paper  and  let  bake  from  three-fourths 
to  a  full  hour. 


Chicken  Pie,  Biscuit  Crust 


188 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Guinea  Fowl,  Roasted 

Singe,  clean,  wash  and  truss  two 
guinea  fowl ;  put  a  slice  or  two  of  bacon 
inside  of  each,  rub  over  the  outside 
with  salt,  pepper  and  flour  and  fasten 
a  slice  of  salt  pork  or  bacon  over  the 
breast  of  each.  Set  to  cook,  breast 
downwards,  in  a  hot  oven.  Baste  each 
fifteen  minutes;  turn  the  breast  upper- 
most during  the  last  of  the  cooking. 
Cook  about  two  hours,  or  until  the 
joints  separate  easily.  Dredge  with 
flour  after  each  basting  until  nicely 
colored.  Serve  with  bread  sauce  in  a 
bowl  and  cress  salad  on  a  dish  apart. 
Season  the  cress  with  French  dressing. 


over  the  breast.  Set  to  cook  in  a  hot 
oven.  Baste  each  fifteen  minutes  with 
the  dripping  in  the  pan  and  additional 
fat  as  needed.  Dredge  with  flour  after 
each  basting.  Lower  the  heat  after 
the  first  half  hour.  Let  cook  till  the 
joints  separate  easily.  The  time  will 
vary  from  one  hour  and  three-fourths 
to  two  hours  and  one-fourth. 

Giblet  Sauce 

When  the  chickens  are  put  into  the 
oven,  cover  the  cleaned  giblets  and  the 
necks  with  boiling  water  and  let  sim- 
mer until  tender.  Discard  unedible 
portions  and  chop  the  rest  fine.  Pour 
all  the  fat,  save  three  tablespoonfuls. 


Creamed  Cauliflower  au  Gratin 


Bread  Sauce 

Cook  half  a  cup  of  fine,  stale  bread 
crumbs  (center  of  loaf  pressed  through 
colander),  an  onion  into  which  six 
cloves  have  been  pressed  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  paprika  in  a  pint  of 
milk  (double  boiler)  nearly  one  hour. 
When  ready  to  serve  remove  the  onion 
with  the  cloves,  add  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter;  beat  thoroughly  and  the  sauce 
is  ready  to  use. 

Roast  Chickens 

Truss  the  carefully  cleaned  chickens 
so  that  the  legs  and  wings  be  pressed 
close  to  the  body.  Rub  over  with  salt 
and  flour,  and  fasten  slices  of  salt  pork 


from  the  baking  pan;  into  this  stir 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  add  a  cup 
and  a  half  of  the  cooled  broth  from 
the  giblets  and  stir  until  boiling;  add 
the  chopped  giblets  with  salt  and  pep- 
per as  needed. 

Bread  Dressing 

To  two  cups  of  fine  bread  crumbs 
(picked  from  the  loaf  with  a  fork)  add  half 
a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  powdered  thyme 
or  summer  savory,  salt  and  pepper,  also 
half  a  cup  of  melted  butter,  mix  thor- 
oughly and  use  to  fill  the  chickens.  This 
quantity  will  be  enough  for  one  chicken. 

Spinach  Souffle  (Ada  A.  Hillier) 

Melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter; 
in  it  cook  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour, 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


189 


half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  grating 

of  nutmeg;  add  half  a  cup  of  milk,  stir 

until    smooth,    then    add    one    cup    of 

spinach.     The     spinach     is     measured 

after   it    has    been 

cooked  and  pressed 

through  a  sieve.    It 

will  take  one  pound 

of  raw  spinach   to 

make    one    cup    of 

puree.      Add    also 

one-fourth  a  cup  of 

sultana  raisins  and 

one-fourth  a  cup  of 

almonds,  blanched 

and  cut  in  quarters ; 

mix      thoroughly, 

then  add  the  beaten 

yolks  of  three  eggs ;  mix  again,  fold  in  the 

whites  of  three  eggs ,  beaten  dry ,  and  turn 

into  a  buttered  dish.  Bake,  set  on  several 

folds  of  paper  and  surrounded  by  boiling 

water,  until  firm  in  the  center.     Serve 

with  the  meat  course  or  in  a  course  by 

itself. 

German  Pretzels 

Put  one  cup  of  lukewarm  water  into  a 
mixing  bowl;  crumble  a  cake  of  com- 
pressed yeast  into  one-fourth  a  cup  of 
lukewarm  water,  mix  thoroughly,  then 
add  to  the  water  in  the  bowl;  stir  in 


enough  flour  to  make  a  batter,  cover 
and  let  stand  in  a  warm  place  until 
light  and  very  bubbly.  Add  half  a 
teaspoonful   of   salt   and   enough   flour 


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German  Pretzels 

to  make  a  very  stiff  dough.  Knead 
thoroughly,  adding  flour  meanwhile. 
When  very  stiff  and  smooth  set  aside 
in  a  covered  bowl  until  doubled  in  bulk. 
Turn  the  dough  through  a  brake  such 
as  is  used  for  beaten  biscuit,  or  roll 
or  pound  it  with  a  rolling  pin.  When 
the  dough  is  pliable  and  velvety,  cut 
off  strips  and  roll  under  the  fingers  into 
strips  of  a  pencil  shape;  coil  these  in 
pretzel  shape  and  let  stand  to  become 
somewhat  light.  Have  about  a  quart 
of  wood  ashes  tied  in  a  bag;  pour  over 
these  about  two  quarts  of  boiling  water; 
let  boil  until  the  liquid  looks  like  weak 
tea;  remove  the  bag,  and,  when  the 
pretzels  are  ready,  drop  them  into  the 
liquid;  as  the  pretzels  rise  to  the  top, 
skim  them  out  to  a  baking  pan  dredged 
with  salt ;  sprinkle  the  tops  with  salt  and 


Biscuit  Brake  and  Pretzels  in  Process  of  Shaping 


190 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


let  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  The  dough, 
without  boiling  in  the  lye,  may  be 
shaped  for  breadstick  pans  and  dredged 
with    salt   before   baking.     These    salt 


A  Cheese  Course 

sticks  are  particulary  good  with  soup. 
The  dough  is  particularly  easy  to 
handle. 

Mashed  Potatoes,  Nantaise 

Press  hot  boiled  potatoes  through  a 
ricer;  for  each  quart  add  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
and  hot  milk  or  cream  as  needed. 
Beat  thoroughly  with  a  perforated 
wooden  spoon;  press,  dome  shape,  into 
an  au  gratin  dish,  brush  over  with 
white  or  Bechamel  sauce,  sprinkle  with 
cracker  crumbs,  mixed  with  melted 
butter,  and  set  into  a  hot  oven  to  brown 
the  crumbs. 


Creamed  Cauliflower  au  Gratin 

Let  the  cauliflower  cook  in  boiUng 
salted  water  until  tender,  then  sepa- 
rate into  flowerets  and  dis- 
pose in  individual  dishes; 
over  the  cauliflower  in  each 
dish  turn  one  or  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream  sauce, 
sprinkle  with  buttered 
cracker  crumbs  and  set  into 
the  oven,  to  brown  the 
crumbs. 


A  Ch 


eese  L^ourse 


A  Cheese  Course 


Roll  cream  cheese  into 
balls  nearly  an  inch  in  diam- 
eter; roll  the  balls  in  pis- 
tachio nuts,  blanched  and 
chopped.  Pile  the  balls  in 
the  center  of  a  chop-plate, 
and  surround  with  a  wreath  of 
orange  or  grape-fruit  marmalade.  Sur- 
round the  marmalade  with  hot  toasted 
crackers.  Serve  at  the  close  of  luncheon 
or  dinner  in  the  place  of  the  usual  pud- 
ding, pie  or  other  sweet  dish.  If 
preferred  pass  the  cheese,  marmalade 
and  crackers  on  a  tray  in  separate 
receptacles. 

Cranberry  Tarts 

Cut  rounds  from  flaky  paste  and  an 
equal  number  of  rounds  from  puft'- 
paste,  if  at  hand,  otherwise  use  flaky 
pastry  for  both  sets  of  rounds.  Cut 
out  small  rounds  from  the  paste  to  be 
used  as  covers,  but  retain  them  in  place. 
Put  a  spoonful  of 
cranberry  jelly  on 
the  flaky  rounds, 
brush  the  edge 
with  cold  water 
and  press  the 
puff-paste  rounds 
above ;  dredge  with 
granulated  sugar 
and  bake  in  a 
rather  hot  oven 
about  fifteen 
minutes. 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


191 


Puff-Paste 

Keep  the  hands  and  a  mixing  bowl 
for  some  minutes  in  very  hot  and  then 
in  very  cold  water.  Work 
and  wash  half  a  pound  (one 
cup)  of  butter  in  very  cold 
water  until  pliable  and 
smooth,  pat  into  a  rectan- 
gular shape  rather  less  than 
three-eighths  of  an  inch 
thick,  fold  in  a  cloth  and 
set  in  a  cool  place.  Work 
half  a  pound  (two  cups)  of 
flour  and  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt  with  cold  water  to  a 
dough,  knead  until  elastic; 
cover  with  mixing  bowl 
and  let  stand  five  minutes, 
roll  into  a  rectangular  sheet  rather 
more  than  twice  the  width  and  three 
times  the  length  of  the  prepared  but- 
ter. Lay  the  butter  lengthwise  in  the 
center  of  one  side  of  the  paste,  fold  the 
other  side  of  the  paste  over  the  butter 
and  press  the  edges  together.  The 
butter  is  now  enclosed.  Fold  one  end 
of  the  paste  over  the  other  end,  under 
the  enclosed  butter,  evenly ,  and  press  the 
edges  together  all  around.  Turn  the 
paste  halfway  around  that  it  may  be 
rolled  in  a  direction  opposite  to  the  first 
rolling;  pat  with  the  pin  and  roll  out, 
keeping  the  layers  even.  Fold  the 
paste  to  make  three  layers,  turn  half- 


way around  and  again  roll  out.  Roll- 
ing the  paste,  folding  in  three  layers 
and  turning  halfway  round  is  called 
"one    turn."     The    pastry    should    be 


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Cranberry  Tarts 

Pat'^and      given    six    "turns."     The    first 
with  butter  is  the  first  turn. 


rolling 


Chestnut  Pudding 

W'ash  and  wipe  a  lemon;  pare  the 
thin  yellow  rind  from  half  of  it,  add  to 
a  cup  of  milk  and  let  scald  over  hot 
water;  remove  from  the  fire,  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  beaten  and  mixed  with  two 
level  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  one- 
fourth  a  cup  of  preserved  chestnut 
puree,  half  a  cup  of  bread  crumbs,  the 
juice  of  a  lemon  and  one-fourth  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Mix  thoroughly  and 
let  cook  till  firm  in  the  center.  When 
cooled  a  little  spread  over  the  top  a 


Chestnut  Pudding 


192 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


meringue,  made  of  the  whites  of  two 
eggs,  two  rounding  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  va- 
nilla extract.  Return  to  a  slow  oven 
for  ten  minutes,  to  cook  the  meringue. 
In  making  the  meringue  beat  the  whites 
dry,  then  gradually  beat  in  the  sugar. 
Use  granulated  sugar. 

Small  Chocolate  Cookies 
(Anna  Arnold) 
Beat  half  a  cup  of  butter  to  a  cream ; 
gradually  beat  in  one  cup  of  sugar,  two 
eggs,  beaten  without  separating  the 
whites  and  yolks,  then  two  rounding 
tablespoonfuls  of  cocoa,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  sweet  milk,  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  vanilla  extract  and  two  cups  of 
sifted  pastry  flour,  sifted  again  with 
two  slightly  rounding  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking  powder.  Drop  by  the  tea- 
spoonful,  some  distance  apart,  on 
buttered  baking  sheets.  Bake  in  a 
quick  oven.  AVhen  baked  the  cookies 
should  be  perfect  in  shape  and  the  size 
of  a  macaroon. 

Ice  Cream  Sundae,  Sultana  Roll  Style 

Prepare  a  junket  or  a  Philadelphia 
ice  cream  mixture,  flavoring  each  quart 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  vanilla  and  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  almond  extract ;  freeze 
as   usual,    then   tint   light    green   with 


vegetable  coloring.  Soak  about  half  a 
cup  of  sultana  raisins  in  brandy  an 
hour  or  two.  Whip  a  cup  of  double 
cream  until  solid,  then  fold  in  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.  Boil  one  cup 
of  sugar  and  one-fourth  a  cup  of  water 
six  minutes;  let  cool  and  add  one-third 
a  cup  of  claret  wine.  Put  a  large 
spoonful  of  the  frozen  cream  in  a  glass, 
with  a  spoon  dipped  in  warm  water; 
form  a  small  open  space  in  the  center, 
and  in  this  set  a  teaspoonful  of  raisins, 
carefully  drained ;  over  these  pipe  a  rose 
of  the  whipped  cream ;  pour  two  or  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  sauce  over  the  whole. 
The  raisins  may  be  cooked  in  syrup  and 
drained  and  the  soaking  in  brandy 
omitted.  Strawberry  or  raspberry  sauce 
may  be  substituted  for  the  claret  sauce. 
If  preserves  be  used,  press  through  a 
fine  sieve,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon 
juice  to  each  cup  of  puree  and  it  is 
ready  to  use.  If  the  sauce  prove  too 
thick,  add  a  little  sugar  syrup. 

Ginger  Ale  Punch 

Melt  one  cup  and  three-fourths  of  sugar 
in  one  cup  of  lemon  juice  and  stir  in  one 
quart  of  ginger  ale.  When  the  sugar  is 
melted,  freeze  to  a  mush.  Serve  in  cock- 
tail glasses  with  or  after  the  meat  course. 
Half  a  cup  of  sauteme  may  be  mixed 
through  the  ice  after  it  is  frozen. 


Ginger  Ale  Punch 


Menus  for  a  Week  in  November 


Breakfast 

E-C  Com  Flakes, 

Hot  Dates,  Thin  Cream 

Broiled  Bacon 

Baked  Potatoes 

Doughnuts.     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Guinea  Fowls,  Roasted,  Bread  Sauce 

Boiled  Rice 

Celery-and- Apple  Salad 

Squash  Pie 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Hot  Cheese  Sandwiches 

Baked  Sweet  Apples,  Thin  Cream 

Small  Chocolate  Cookies.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Gluten  Grits,  Hot  Dates,  Thin  Cream 

Smoked  Halibut,  Creamed  with 

Baked  Potatoes.     Curry  Powder 

White  Mountain  Muffins 

Coffee.      Cocoa 

Dinner 

Lamb-and-Tomato  Soup  with  Rice 

Baked  Halibut  Steaks,  Bread  Dressing 

Stewed  Tomatoes.     Mashed  Potatoes 

Apple  Pie.     Cream  Cheese.     Coffee 

Supper 

Komlet  Custard 
New  Rye  Bread  and  Butter 

Baked  Pears 
Honey  Cookies.     Tea.     Cocoa 


Breakfast 

Salt  Mackerel  Cooked  in  Milk 

White  Hashed  Potatoes 

Baking  Powder  Biscuit 

Pickled  Beets 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Boiled  Leg  of  Lamb,  Caper  Sauce 

Plain  Boiled  Potatoes 

Mashed  Turnips 

Apple  Dumplings,  Hard  Sauce 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Creamed  Guinea  Fowl  on  Toast 

Stewed  Crab  Apples 

Gingerbread.     Cocoa 


Breakfast 

Cereal,  Hot  Baked  Apples,  Thin  Cream 

Sausage  Cakes 

Creamed  Potatoes 

Rice  Griddle  Cakes 

Cocoa.     Coffee 

Dinner 

Broiled  Sirloin  Steak 

Baked  Sweet  Potatoes 

Celery.     Yeast  Biscuit 

Coffee  Jelly,  Boiled  Custard 

Supper 

Cream-of-Celery  Soup,  Croutons 

Fried  Oysters.     Cole  Slaw 
Yeast  Biscuit  (reheated).    Tea 


Breakfast 

E-C  Corn  Flakes 

Sliced  Bananas,  Thin  Cream 

Dried  Beef,  Frizzled,  Fried  Potatoes 

■White  Corn  Meal  Muffins 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Lamb  Pie,  Biscuit  Crust 

Boiled  Onions,  Buttered 

Celery 

Prune-and-Nut  Jelly,  Whipped  Cream 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Pop-Overs.    New  Clover  Honey 

Smoked  Halibut 

Boiled  Rice,  Milk.      Tea 


Breakfast 

Cereal,  Thin  Cream 

Halibut  Fish  Cakes  (left  over) 

Baking  Powder  Biscuit 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Fowl  en  Casserole 

(Potatoes,  Carrots) 

Celery-and-Nut  Salad 

Cranberry  Pie 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Boston  Baked  Beans  with  Sausage 

Graham  Bread 

Apple  Sauce.    Cream  Cheese 

Chocolate  Cookies.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Cereal,  Sliced  Bananas, 

Thin  Cream 

Hashed  Fowl  on  Toast 

Doughnuts 

Coffee.      Cocoa 


Dinner 

Cannelon  of  Beef, 

Brown  Sauce 

French  Fried  Potatoes 

Squash 

Scalloped  Tomatoes 

and  Onions 

Lemon  Pie 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

193 


Supper 

Oyster  Stew,  Pickles 

Buttered  Toast 

Apple  Sauce 

Cream  Cheese 

Tea 


Menus  for  Thanksgiving  Dinners  and  Suppers 


Simple  Dinner,  I 

Cream-of-Oyster  Soup 

Celery.     Gherkins 

Roasted  Chicken,  Giblet  Sauce 

Cranberry  Sauce 

Mashed  Potatoes 

Buttered  Onions 

Squash  au  gratin 

Waldorf  Salad 

Pumpkin  Pie 

Charlotte  Russe 

Nuts.     Apples.     Grapes 

Coffee 


Simple  Dinner,  II 

Chicken-and-Clam  Broth 

Celery.     Olives 

Roasted  Turkey,  Giblet  Sauce 

Cranberry  Sauce 

Oysters  Scalloped  in  Ramekins 

Mashed  Potatoes 

Spinach  Souffle 

Candied  Sweet  Potatoes 

Hot  Apple  Pie 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream 

Nuts,     Apples.     Grapes 

Coffee 


Simple  Dinner,  III 

Grape-fruit  Cocktail 
Creamed  Haddock  in  Potato  Cassolettes 
Olives 
Roasted  Chicken,  Giblet  Sauce 

Cranberry  Sauce 

Cauliflower,  Hollandaise  Sauce 

Mashed  Potatoes 

Squash  Pie 

Grapejuice  Syllabub 

Fruit.     Nuts.     Raisins 

Coffee 


Simple  Dinner,  IV 

Grape-fruit  Cocktail 

Roasted  Turkey,  Giblet  Sauce 

Cranberry  Sauce 

Onions,  Stuffed  with  Sausage,  Baked 

Squash.     Celery 

Cider  Frapp^ 

Currant  Jelly  or  Apple  Tarts 

Chestnut   Pudding.     Plain   Charlotte   Russe 

Raisins.     Nuts 

Coffee 


Elaborate  Dinner 

Lobster  Cocktail 

Consomme  a  la  Royal 

Celery.     Salted  Nuts 

Truffled  Fish  Timbales,   Lobster  Sauce 

Oyster   Patties,  Brown  Sauce 

Roasted  Turkey,  Giblet  Sauce 

Sausage  Cakes,  Cranberry  Jelly 

Squash  au  Gratin 

Mashed  Potatoes 

Brussels  Sprouts,  Hollandaise  Sauce 

Ginger  Ale  Punch 

Roasted  Wild  Ducks 

Cumquat-and-Celery  Salad 

Pumpkin  Pie 

Ice  Cream  Sundae,  Sultana  Roll  Style 

Fruit.     Nuts 

Coffee 


Chafing  Dish  Suppers 


I 


II 


Clam  Bouillon 

Celery.     Olives 

Chicken  a  la  King,  Waldorf 

Salad  Rolls 

Zabione 


Cream-of-Oyster  Soup 

OHves.     Salted  Nuts 

Chicken-and-Celery   Soup   molded   in   Aspic 

Jelly 

Bread  and  Butter  Sandwiches 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream,  Maple  Sauce  with 

Chopped  Nuts 


194 


Menus  for  Company  Luncheons  in  November 


Consomm^  with  Alphabet  Paste 
Creamed  Fish  in  Potato  Cassolettes 

Olives.     Gherkins 

Terrine  of  Chicken  and  Cooked  Ham, 

Sliced  thin 

Mayonnaise  of  Celery  and  Nuts 

Cream  Cheese  Balls 

Orange  Marmalade 

Toasted  Crackers.     Tea 


IV 

Chicken-and-Clam  Broth 

Toasted  Crackers 

Olives.     Salted  Nuts 

Creamed  Crabfiakes  in  Potato  Cassolettes 

Cold  Roast  Turkey,  Sliced  Thin 

French  Fried  Potatoes 

Waldorf  Salad 

Grape  juice  Syllabub 

Coffee 


II 

Chicken  Soup  with  Meringue 

Bread  Sticks 

Fried  Fillets  of  Fish,  Sauce  Tartare 

Cold  Baked  Ham,  Sliced  Thin 

Baked  Bananas,  Sultana  Sauce 

Caramel  Bavariose.     Little  Chocolate  Cakes 

Coffee 


Cream-of-Celery  Soup 

Chicken  Croquettes 

Brown  Mushroom  Sauce 

Oyster  Salad 

Ginger  Ale  Punch 


III 

Cream-of-Oyster  Soup 

Casserole  of  Chicken 

Celery-and- Apple  Salad,  French  Dressing 

Little  Squash  Pies 

Coffee 


VI 

Cocktail  of  Grape-fruit  and  White  Grapes 

Creamed  Chicken  on  Kornlet  Fritters 

Cream  Cheese  Balls,  Orange  Marmalade 

Toasted  Crackers 

Cocoa,  Whipped  Cream 

Marguerites 


VII 

Chicken  Soup  with  Meringue 
Fillets  of  Fish,  Fried,  Sauce  Tartare 

Parker  House  Rolls 

Mayonnaise  of  Chicken  and  Celery 

Jelly  Tarts 

Coffee 

195 


Diet  in  Typhoid  Fever 

By  Fairfax  T.  Proudfit 

Second  Paper 

Milk  Diet 

This  diet  regime  must  be  kept  up  during  the  entire  febrile  period,  and  from 
five  to  nine  days  after  the  departure  of  the  fever,  according  to  the  severity  of  the 
attack. 

FIRST  DAY 


Intervals 

Quantity 

Special  Requirements 

TO  BE  GIVEN 

Materials 

1  ounce  =  2  tablespoonfuls 

OF 

Feeding 

AT  EACH 

USED 

8  ounces  =1  glassful=K  pint 

Feeding 

6  ounces  =1  (tea)  cupful 

7.30  A.M. 

1  to  2  ounces 

Peptonized  Milk  or  Modified 
Milk. 

Formula.* 

1  teaspoonful 

Whiskey. 

10.00  A.M. 

1  to  2  ounces 

Beef    Broth,    Sanatogen   or 

Broth  must  be  made  the  pre- 

Plasnon.        If     broth     dis- 

ceding day,  that  it  may  be 

agrees,  give  milk  as  before. 

perfectly  free  from  grease. 
Add  Sanatogen  to  warm  but 
not  hot  broth. 

12.30  P.M. 

2  ounces 

Albuminized  Orange  Juice. 

See  formula  at  end  of  article. 

3.00  P.M. 

1  to  2  ounces 

Peptonized  Milk  or  Modified 

Milk. 

1  teaspoonful 

Whiskey. 

5.30  P.M. 

%  ounce 

Panopepton  or  liquid  Pep- 
tonoids. 

Poured  over  cracked  ice. 

8.00  P.M. 

1  to  2  ounces 

Reinforced  Beei  Broth. 

Using  the  Sanatogen,  Plas- 
non or  Albumin,  care  must 
be  taken  not  to  let  the  albu- 
min coagulate,  which  it  will 
do,  if  the  broth  is  heated  over 
140°. 

10.30  P.M. 

I'to  2  ounces 

Peptonized  Milk. 

1  teaspoonful 

Whiskey. 

1.00  A.M. 

1  to  2  ounces 

Peptonized  Milk  or  Modified 
Milk. 

3.30  A.M. 

1  ounce 

Panopepton. 

Poured  over  cracked  ice. 

6.00  A.M. 

1  to  2  ounces 

Reinforced  Beef  Broth. 

*It  is  well  to  remember  that  a  fresh  supply  of  milk  must  be  peptonized  every  six  hours;  after  that  time  it  becomes 
bitter  and  unpalatable.    The  immediate  process  may  be  used  if  it  is  prepared  at  each  feeding. 

SECOND  DAY 


8.30  A.M. 

2  to  2y^  ounces 

Peptonized  Milk. 

Partial  or  complete  process 

1  teaspoonful 

Whiskey  or  Brandy.* 

may  be  used. 

See  formula  at  end  of  article. 

11.00  A.M. 

2  ounces 

Reinforced  Broth. 

Chicken,  beef,  lamb  or  clams 

1  teaspoonful 

Sanatogen. 

may  be  used  in  making 
broth.     (See  formulas.) 

1.30  P.M. 

2  to  2j4  ounces 

Peptonized  Milk. 

1  teaspoonful 

Whiskey  or  Brandy.* 

3.00  P.M. 

2  to  3  ounces 

Albuminized  Orange  Juice. 

The    lemon    juice    may    be 

1  egg  white. 

omitted  in  the  formula,  if  the 
distention  is  in  the  stomach 
as  well  as  in  the  abdominal 
regions. 

5.30  P.M. 

2  ounces 

Reinforced  Broth 

The  broth  may  likewise  be 

or 

thickened  with  rice  or  barley 

1  ounce 

Panopepton. 

flour,  but  additional  cooking 
must  be  given  to  it. 

196 


DIET  IN  TYPHOID  FEVER 


197 


SECOND  DAY  — Continued 


Intervals 

OF 

Feeding 

Quantity 

TO  BE  GIVEN 
AT  EACH 

Feeding 

Materials 

USED 

Special  Requirements 
1  ounce  =  2  tablespoonfuls 
8  ounces  =  1  glassful  =  K  pint 
6  ounces  =1  (tea)  cupful 

8.00  P.M. 
10.30  P.M. 

1.00  A.M. 

3.30  P.M. 

6.00  A.M. 

2  to  2^  ounces 
2  ounces 
2  to  2>^  ounces 
1  teaspoonful 

1  ounce 

2  to  2%  ounces 

Peptonized  Milk. 
Reinforced  Broth. 
Peptonized  Milk. 
Whiskey  or  Brandy.* 
Panopepton  or  Liquid  Pep- 
tonoids. 
Peptonized  Milk. 

May  be  given  hot  or  cold  as 
the  patient  desires. 

Whiskey    or    Brandy   added 
by  physician's  order  only. 

*  Whiskey  or  brandy  must  only  be  added  by  order  of  physician.  As  the  disease  progresses  the  patient  will  be- 
come used  to  the  monotony  of  the  diet.  In  mild  cases,  however,  a  greater  variety  of  fluids  must  be  given  or  else 
the  patient  will  refuse  food  altogether,  thus  increasing  the  bodily  weakness  through  lack  of  nutrition. 


Mixed  Fluid  Diet* 

To  be  used  instead  of  the  milk  diet  that  so  often  disagrees. 
FIRST  DAY 


Intervals 

OP 

Feeding 


7.30  A.M. 


10.00  A.M. 


12.30 
3.00 

5.30 

8.00 

11.00 

1.00 
3.30 


Quantity 

to  be  given 

AT  each 

Feeding 


1  to  2  ounces 


1        teaspoonful 


1  to  2  ounces 


2  to  3  ounces 
1  ounce 

1  to  ounces 

2  to  3  ounces 
1  to  2  ounces 
1  teaspoonful 
1  to  2  ounces 
1  ounce 


Materials 

USED 


Reinforced    Chicken    Broth 
(thickened   with    barley   or 
rice  flour). 
Sanatogen. 


Buttermilk  or  Koumiss 


Albuminized  Orange  Juice. 

Panopepton  or  Liquid  Pep- 

tonoids. 

Buttermilk  or  Koumiss, 

Albuminized  Orange  Juice. 

Reinforced  Chicken  Broth. 

Sanatogen. 

Buttermilk. 

Panopepton. 


Special  Requirements 
1  ounce  =  2  tablespoonfuls 
8  ounces  =1  glassful  =>2  pint 
6  ounces  =  1  (tea)  cupful 


Broth  must  be  made  the  pre- 
ceding day  and  made  free 
from  grease;  1  tablespoonful 
of  barley  or  rice  flour  may  Vje 
added  to  each  pint  of  liquid 
during  the  last  hour  of  cook- 
ing. 

Served    cold,    but    not    iced. 
Koumiss  may  be  diluted  with 
water  if  too  thick. 
See  formula. 
Served  on  cracked  ice. 

Cold  but  not  iced. 

Reinforced  with  rice  or  bar- 
ley flour. 


SECOND  DAY 


7.30  A.M. 

1  cup 

Hot  Milk. 

Milk  may  be  peptonized  and 

1  slice 

Toast. 

flavored  with  cocoa  or  coffee; 
the  toast,  broken  up  into  the 
milk,  must  be  very  soft. 

10.00  A.M. 

6  to  8  ounces 

Albuminized  Orange  Juice. 

See  formula. 

1.00   A.M. 

1  egg 

Very  soft  cooked. 

Egg  must  not  be  boiled,  but 
placed  in  boiling  water  and 
allowed  to  stand  in  warm 
place  4  or  5  minutes. 

4.00  P.M. 

6  to  8  ounces 

Buttermilk  or  Koumiss. 

Cold  but  not  iced. 

7.00  P.M. 

6  to  8  ounces 

Chicken  Broth, 

1  tablespoonful 

Rice. 

Rice  must  be  boiled  at  least 
three  hours;  if  cooked  a 
shorter  time  it  must  be 
strained  from  the  broth. 

12.00  M. 

8  ounces 

Hot  Milk. 

Peptonized. 

4.00  A.M. 

1  ounce 

Panopepton  or  Liquid  Pep- 
tonoids. 

Poured  over  cracked  ice. 

*  This  diet  has  been  tested  and  found  successful  in  many  cases  of  typhoid  fever.  In  using  it  the  danger  arising 
from  abnormal  fermentation,  i.e.,  intestinal  perforation  and  hemorrhage,  is  reduced  to  a  minimum. 

Buttermilk,  koumiss,  matzoon  and  zoolac,  owing  to  their  lactic  acid  content,  exert  a  decidedly  antiseptic 
effect  in  the  intestines,  and  for  this  reason  are  especially  efiPective  in  the  dietetic  treatment  of  typhoid  fever. 


198 


THE   BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


Convalescent  Diet 

Five  to  six  days  in  mild  cases,  ten  to  fourteen  in  more  severe  cases,   after 

fever  disappears. 


FIRST  DAY 


Quantity 

Special  Requirements 

Intervals 

TO  BE  GIVEN 

Materials 

1  ounce  =  2  tablespoonfuls 

AT  EACH 

USED 

8  ounces  =1  glassful=K  pint 

Feeding 

Feeding 

6  ounces  =1  (tea)  cupful 

7.30  A.M. 

6  to  8  ounces 

Hot  Milk. 

Milk  may  be  peptonized  and 

1  slice 

Toast. 

flavored  with  coffee  or  cocoa 
or  given  plain;  the  toast  to  be 
broken  in  small  pieces  into 
the  milk. 

10.00  A.M. 

6  to  8  ounces 

Albuminized  Orange  Juice. 

See  formula. 

1.00   P.M. 

8  ounces 

Chicken,  Veal  or  Beef  Broth 

Thickened    with    barley    or 

or  1  soft  custard. 

rice  flour. 

4.00  P.M. 

1  ounce 

Panopepton  or  Liquid  Pep- 
tonoids. 

Poured  on  cracked  ice. 

7.00  P.M. 

6  to  8  ounces 

Hot  Milk. 

May  be  peptonized  and  fla- 
vored with  either  cocoa  or 
beef  extract. 

12.00  M. 

6  to  8  ounces 

Hot  Milk. 

Peptonized. 

4.00   A.M. 

1  ounce 

Panopepton. 

SECOND  DAY 


7.30  A.M. 

1  cupful 

Milk  (hot). 

Milk  to   be   peptonized  and 

1  slice 

Dipped  Toast. 

flavored;  toast  made  soft 
with  hot  water. 

1  ^g?, 

Poached  Egg. 

Served  on  the  toast.  (See 
formula  for  Poached  Egg.) 

10.30   A.M. 

1  glassful 

Buttermilk  or  Koumiss. 

Koumiss  may  be  diluted  with 
water  if  too  thick. 

1.30  P.M. 

6  to  8  ounces 

Oysters  (soft  parts  only). 

Served    with    salt,     but    no 

1  slice 

Zwieback  dipped  or  toast. 

other  condiments.  Soften 
Zwieback  or  toast  with  water. 

4.30  P.M. 

6  to  8  ounces 

Albuminized  Orange  Juice. 

See  formula. 

7.30  P.M. 

6  to  8  ounces 

Hot  Milk  or 

May  or  may  not  be  flavored. 

Broth  (thickened  with  barley 

Cook    barley    5    hours,    rice 

or  rice). 

3  hours. 

One  slice  of  toast. 

12.00  M. 

6  to  8  ounces 

Hot  Milk. 

Peptonized. 

4.00   A.M. 

1  ounce 

Panopepton  or  Peptonoids. 

THIRD  DAY 


7.30  A.M. 

1  cup 

Hot  Milk. 

Flavored  with  coffee  or  cocoa. 

1  slice 

Toast. 

Toast  lightly  buttered. 

1  ^g?, 

Poached  Egg. 

Egg    (poached    in    milk    or 

water) . 

May    be    plain    or    flavored 

10.30  A.M. 

4  ounces 

Junket. 

(8  tablespoonfuls) 

with  cocoa. 

1.30  P.M. 

8  ounces 

Cream  of  Chicken  or  Chicken. 

Broth    thickened    with    rice 
cooked      at    least    3    hours. 

1  slice 

Toast. 

Toast    spread    with    scraped 

1  tablespoonful 

Scraped  Beef. 

beef,  lightly  dusted  with  salt 
and  pepper. 

4.00  P.M. 

6  to  8  ounces 

Albuminized  Orange  Juice. 

See  formula. 

7.00  P.M. 

i  cup 

Hot  Milk. 

Flavored  with  cocoa. 

1  slice 

Cream  Toast. 

See  formula. 

12.00  M. 

1  cup 

Chicken  Broth. 

Sanatogen    to    be   added   to 

1  teaspoonful  or 

Sanatogen 

wann,  not  hot  broth. 

more 

or  Plasnon. 

4.00   A.M. 

1  ounce 

Panopepton. 

DIET  IN  TYPHOID  FEVER 


199 


FOURTH  DAY 


Quantity 

Special  Requirements 

Intervals 

TO  BE  GIVEN 

Materials 

1  ounce  =  2  tablespoonfuls. 

OF 

AT  EACH 

USED 

8  ounces  =1  glassful  =K  pint 

Feeding 

Feeding 

6  ounces  =1  (tea)  cupful 

7.30  A.M. 

1  cup 

Hot  Milk. 

Flavored  with  cocoa  or  coffee. 

1  to  2  ounces 

Farina. 

Cooked  with  milk  (accord- 
ing to  formula) . 

1  slice 

Toast,  buttered. 

1  tablespoonful 

Scraped  Beef. 

Spread  on  toast  and  lightly 
broiled. 

10.30  A.M. 

1  glassful 
(8  ounces) 

Buttermilk. 

Cold  but  not  iced. 

1.30  P.M. 

8  ounces 

Cream  of  Celery  Soup. 

See  formula. 

1  slice 

Toast  (buttered). 

1  mold 

Baked  Custard. 

See  formula. 

4.30  P.M. 

8  ounces 

Albuminized  Grape  Juice. 

See  formula. 

7.30  P.M. 

8  ounces 

Cream  of  Chicken  Soup. 

Soup  may   be   omitted   and 

1  tablespoonful 

Well  Boiled  Rice. 

hot  milk  flavored  with  cocoa 

2  tablespoonfuls 

Wine  or  Lemon  Jelly. 

may  be  substituted;  rice 
must  be  thoroughly  cooked 
and  served  with  a  little 
butter  or  beef  extract  (in 
1  tablespoonful  of  hot  water 
as  a  gravy) . 

Cream,  Egg  and  Vichy 

1  egg  white 

2  ounces  (4  tablespoonfuls)  cream 
2  teaspoonfuls  sugar 

A  few  drops  of  vanilla  extract 
Celestine  (French)  vichy  to  fill  glass 

Whip  egg  white  to  stiff  froth;  whip 
cream  stiff  and  sweeten,  add  vanilla, 
lastly,  the  egg.  Pour  over  cracked 
ice  and  fill  up  the  glass  with  vichy. 
Can  be  used  in  cases  of  stomach  trouble, 
when  spices  and  acids  of  all  kinds  are 
prohibited.  To  be  alternated  with  the 
broths  or  other  foods  as  an  agreeable 
change  from  the  ordinary  diet.  Sub- 
stitute one-half  grain  saccharine  for 
sugar  when  used  for  diabetes. 

Egg  and  Orange  (or  Wine  instead 
of  Fruit  Juice) 

^  tablespoonful  of  sugar 
1    orange  (or    1    wineglassful   of    Port    or 
Burgundy) 

Beat  egg  separately  and  add  sugar 
to  yolk;  pour  over  a  glass  of  cracked 
ice  and  stir  in  the  beaten  white  of  egg. 
If  this  is  too  thick  to  drink  add  water 
or  cream,  as  desired.  It  must  be  re- 
membered that,  when  wine  is  added  to 
egg,  it  should  always  go  into  the  yolk 
to  prevent  curdling.     Add  wine  as  you 


would  orange  juice,  and  cream  is  better 
to  use  in  this  case  than  water. 

Egg  and  Wine 

*  1  ^gg 

1  ounce   (2  tablespoonfuls)   wine,   Sherry, 

Port  or  Madeira 
1  ounce  rich  cream.     Sugar  to  taste 

Substitute  one-half  grain  saccharine 
for  diabetic  patients.  Beat  yolk  of 
egg  together  and  add  wine.  Whip  the 
cream  and  add  it  to  the  mixture; 
lastly  fold  in  lightly  the  well-beaten 
egg  white  and  pour  this  over  cracked 
ice.  If  the  mixture  is  too  thick,  add 
vichy  to  dilute,  or  any  carbonated  wa- 
ter may  be  substituted  for  the  cream ; 
if  it  is  too  rich  for  the  patient  to  digest. 


Kou 


miss 


^  cake  Fleichmann's  yeast 
1^  tablespoonfuls  sugar 
1  tablespoonful  water 
1  quart  milk 

Make  thin  syrup  of  sugar  and  water 
and  cook  one  minute.  Soften  the 
yeast  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  luke- 
warm milk,  add  other  ingredients  and 
shake.  Put  in  sterile  patent  beer  bot- 
tles, and  place  in  upright  position  for 
twelve  hours,  in  an  ordinarily  warm 
room  (70  degrees).    Then  turn  on  side 


200 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


in  the  bottom  of  ice  chest  at  the  regular 
temperature,  50  degrees.  Ready  for 
use  after  the  first  twenty-four  hours. 
Koumiss  will  keep  several  days,  but  the 
longer  it  is  kept  the  less  palatable  it 
will  be.  Do  not  open  a  bottle  of  kou- 
miss without  a  champagne  tap,  or  the 
cork  may  be  punctured  with  a  darning 
needle,  to  let  the  gas  escape.  It  should 
look  thick  and  creamy. 

Koumiss  is  especially  suited  for 
many  forms  of  indigestion,  nausea  and 
gastric  troubles,  pulmonary  consump- 
tion and  any  other  wasting  disease. 

Egg  White  and  Mint 

1  egg  white 

1  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  sugar 
Several  sprigs  of  fresh  spearmint 

Whip  white  of  egg;  add  sugar  and 

lemon  juice.     Crush  mint  leaves  and 

place  in  glass  filled  with  cracked  ice. 

Make  albuminized  lemonade  and  pour 

into  glass ;  garnish  with  sprig  of  mint. 

Champagne  Mint  Julep 
Two  drops  of  Angostura  Bitters  on 
one  lump  of  cut  sugar.  Dissolve  sugar 
in  one  tablespoonful  of  water.  Place 
in  glass  of  cracked  ice  with  several 
sprigs  of  fresh  spearmint,  and  fill  the 
glass  with  any  sweet  champagne.  Stir 
the  mixture  before  serving. 

Serve  in  cases  of  seasickness,  nausea. 
As  a  beverage,  California  champagne 
will  answer  admirably  in  this  recipe, 
as  sweet  champagne  is  preferable  to  the 
dry. 

Broths 


Material 

Amt. 

Salt 

Cold 
Water 

Special 
Requirements 

Beef  (lean) 

1  pound 

i  tsp. 

li  pints 

Cut  meat  in  small 

Mutton 

1    v. 

i    •• 

n    '^ 

Cut  meat  in  <?mall 
pieces,  free  from 
fat  and  gristle. 

Veal 

1      •• 

\    " 

11  " 

Cut  in  small  pieces. 

Chicken 

1      " 

i    •• 

Disjoint,   cut  meat 

into  small  pieces 

and  break  up  the 

bones. 

Cover  meat  with  cold  water  and 
allow  to  stand  one  or  more  hours  in  a 
cold  place;  then  add  salt,  place  on  the 


stove  where  it  will  come  slowly  to 
the  boihng  point.  Simmer  for  forty- 
eight  hours.  Strain,  cool  and  remove 
all  of  the  grease.  Return  to  fire,  re- 
place the  amount  of  water  evaporated 
(or  bring  the  amount  up  to  a  pint  of 
liquid)  with  boiling  water.  To  rein- 
force broths  with  barley  or  rice  flour 
allow  one  tablespoonful  of  either  to  one 
pint  of  liquid.  Add  cold  water  to  the 
flour  to  make  a  thin  paste  and  stir 
into  the  hot  broth  during  the  last  hour 
of  cooking.  These  broths  may  be 
peptonized  by  cooling  to  115°  Fahr. 
and  adding  one-half  tube  of  peptoniz- 
ing powder,  i.e.,  five  grains  of  pan- 
creatin  and  fifteen  grains  of  sodium 
bicarbonate  (Fairchilds  Bros.  &  Foster) 
dissolved  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cold 
water.  Mix  thoroughly  and  allow  to 
stand  at  115°  Fahr.  for  twenty  minutes; 
bring  quickly  to  a  boil,  remove  from 
fire  and  cool  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Albumin  Water.     Liquid  Food 

8-ounce  glass  of  iced  water 

1    egg   white,    clipped    with    scissors   and 

strained  through  cheese  cloth 
1  teaspoonful  of  brandy 

Mix  white  of  egg  with  water  with  a 
fork;  then  add  the  brandy  drop  by 
drop  until  it  is  all  in.  This  is  difficult 
to  do  unless  the  ingredients  are  cold, 
and,  if  the  egg  shows  the  sHghtest 
signs  of  coagulation,  pour  it  out  and 
try  it  over  again. 

Puree 


Pur^e 


1    tbs.    chicken 
1  tbs.  green  pea 
1  tbs.  chopped 
celery 


1  tbs.  asparagus 

pur^e 
1    tbs.    chicken 


Liquid 


1  cup  milk 
1  cup  of  milk 
i  cup  each  milk 
and  water  in 
which    celery 
was  cooked. 
1  cup  of  milk. 

1  cup  of  milk  or 
milk  and 
broth. 


Flour 


2  tsp. 

2  tsp. 

3  tsp. 


2  tsp, 
2  tsp, 


Butter 


1  tsp. 

1  tsp. 

2  tsp. 


1  tsp. 
1  tsp. 


Salt 


tsp. 
tsp. 
tsp. 


i  tsp. 
i  tsp. 


In  making  vegetable  purees  the  vege- 
tables must  be  cooked  until  soft  in 
salted  water,  then  pressed  through  a 
sieve  and  then  measured. 

Meats  must  be  cooked  until  tender, 
put    in    a    bowl    and    pounded    until 


DIET  IN  TYPHOID  FEVER 


201 


fine,    pressed    through    a    sieve,   then 
measured. 

Peptonize  if  desired.  Cream  soups 
may  be  peptonized  by  adding  one-half 
tube  of  peptonizing  powder  dissolved 
in  one  tablespoonful  cold  water.  Add  to 
soup  when  warm  (115°  Fahr.) ,  let  stand 
twenty  minutes,  boil  up  quickly  and 
place  unused  part  on  ice. 

Cream  Soups 

A  thin  white  sauce  is  the  foundation 
to  all  cream  soups.  In  some  cases 
part  of  the  liquid  used  is  broth,  or  the 
water  in  which  the  vegetables  were 
cooked,  the  other  part  milk  or  cream. 
These  soups  may  be  peptonized  if  de- 
sired by  adding  one-half  tube  of  pep- 
tonizing powder  dissolved  in  one  table- 
spoonful  cold  water;  add  to  soup  when 
warm. 

Method:  Heat  liquid  in  double 
boiler,  add  vegetable  or  meat  puree, 
and  bind  with  flour  and  butter  creamed 
together,  season  with  salt,  strain  and 
serve  hot. 

Albuminized  Orange  Juice 

1  orange  (juice  strained) 
^  lemon  (juice  strained) 

2  teaspoonfuls  sugar 
2  eggs  (whites  only) 

Make  a  hole  in  egg  shell  and  let  the 
white  flow  out  gently ;  clip  it  with  scis- 
sors as  it  flows  to  destroy  the  invisible 
membrane  and  prevent  stringiness. 
Place  all  ingredients  in  shaker  or  bowl 
(if  latter  is  used,  whip  with  egg  beater) , 
add  a  few  bits  of  ice  and  shake  vigor- 
ously until  foamy.     Pour  over  crushed 


ice,  add  water  to  fill  glass.     If  foam  is 

objectionable  to  patient,  do  not  shake 
or  beat  the  ingredients,  but  gently  stir 
the  albumin  into  the  fruit  juice  with 
fork.  If  bubbles  are  visible,  allow 
beverage  to  stand  a  few  minutes  until 
they  disappear. 

Lemon  Jelly 

1  teaspoonful  granulated  gelatine 

2  tablespoonfuls  cold  water 
^  cup  boiling  water 

2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 
1  tablespoonful  sugar 

Soften  gelatine  in  cold  water.  Add 
sugar  to  boihng  water,  pour  over  gela- 
tine, strain  when  partially  cool,  add 
lemon  juice. 

Orange  Jelly 

1  teaspoonful  granulated  gelatine 

2  tablespoonfuls  cold  water 
^  cup  boiling  water 

1  tablespoonful  sugar 

2  tablespoonfuls  orange  juice 

1  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

Proceed  as  in  lemon  jelly. 
Wine  Jelly 

2  teaspoonfuls  granulated  gelatine 
2  tablespoonfuls  cold  water 

1  cup  boiling  water 

2  tablespoonfuls  sherry  wine 
1  tablespoonful  sugar 

1  slice  of  lemon  (^  inch  thick) 
1  piece  of  cinnamon,  1  inch  long 

Soak  gelatine  in  cold  water.  Place 
water,  lemon,  cinnamon  and  sugar  on 
fire.  Boil  two  minutes,  strain,  squeeze 
the  juice  from  lemon,  add  gelatine,  cool 
sHghtly  and  add  wine;  pour  into  in- 
dividual molds  and  set  aside  to  harden. 


HOME  IDEAS 

AND 

ECONOMIES 


Contributions  to  this  department  will  be  gladly  received.     Accepted  items  will  be 
paid  for  at  reasonable  rates. 


Getting  Their  Money's  Worth 

A  DOCTOR,  leaving  medicine  for 
a  sick  baby  in  a  home  of  great 
ignorance,  was  careful  to  tell  the  parents 
that  they  must  give  as  much  of  the 
powder  as  would  go  on  a  dime.  A  few 
hours  later  he  was  summoned  hurriedly ; 
the  baby  was  dying. 

'*  How  much  did  you  give  the  child? " 
he  inquired  anxiously. 

"Exactly  what  you  said,  doctor," 
declared  the  father.  "We  didn't  hap- 
pen to  have  a  dime  in  the  house,  so  we 
gave  as  much  as  we  could  pile  on  two 
nickels." 

Amusing  a  Child   in  Church 

As  a  minister's  children,  our  young 
lives  were  hedged  about  with  a  lot  of 
things  people  expected  of  us;  and 
among  these  was  regular  church  at- 
tendance and  mighty  good  behavior 
while  there,  no  matter  how  little  we 
were.  Consequently  our  mother  had 
to  rack  her  brain,  to  devise  things  that 
would  amuse  us  without  attracting  the 
attention  of  others  or  disturbing  the 
service  in  the  least. 

She  says  none  worked  as  well  as  the 
pocket  pin  roll;  one  of  those  round, 
flat,  covered  pasteboard  affairs  that 
men  used  to  carry  in  their  vest  pockets. 
One  of  these  filled  with  pins  of  various 
colored  heads  pleased  us  beyond  meas- 
ure, and  we  would  spend  the  entire 
time  of  service  taking  them  out,  putting 
them  in  fancy  designs,  playing  they 
were  soldiers  marching  in  companies, 


or  children  playing  all  sorts  of  games. 
We  stuck  them  up  in  our  small  laps  or 
on  the  cushions  of  the  pew,  our  imagi- 
nations constantly  inventing  new  per- 
formances for  our  little  round-headed 
playmates. 

We  did  not  tire  of  them,  because  our 
wise  mother  never  allowed  us  to  have  a 
pin  roll  except  in  church,  and  that  only 
when  the  sermon  began.  Up  till  that 
time  we  were  expected  to  listen  and 
make  out  what  we  could. 

To  Run  a  Sev^ing  Machine  Easily 

To  run  a  sewing  machine  with  as 
little  fatigue  as  possible,  place  the  right 
foot  high  up  on  the  treadle  and  use 
merely  the  toe  of  the  left  foot  on  the 
lower  edge  of  the  same.  This  gives 
play  to  the  muscles  as  in  walking  — 
the  alternate  motion  of  the  limbs  which 
is  both  restful  and  graceful. 

If  both  feet  are  placed  fiat  upon  the 
treadle  and  used  in  harmony,  the  motion 
of  the  muscles  is  that  of  jumping,  the 
most  tiresome  of  all  exercises.  This 
doubtless  explains  in  a  large  measure 
why  so  many  women  in  excellent  health 
find  running  a  machine  the  hardest 
work  they  can  do. 

The  alternate  motion  is  easily  made  a 
habit,  and  its  assistance  is  remarkably 
helpful.  L.  M. 

The  Baby's  Name 

THIS    is   usually   an   affair   of   im- 
portance,   and   it   should   be,    as 
the  one  so  named  xmx?,\  Q^^rry  it  untj.l 


202 


HOME  IDEAS  AND  ECONOMIES 


203 


life  ends,  yet  many  parents  go  suddenly 
blind  at  this  time,  judging  from  some 
of  the  dark,  very  dark,  brunettes 
who  bear  the  name  of  "Lily"  and 
"  Blanche."  First  of  all,  parents  should 
choose  a  name  that  will  be  suitable  for 
the  child's  temperament.  This  is  not 
difficult,  as  most  children  are  greatly 
like  one  parent  or  the  other.  Next  it 
should  be  a  name  that  will  be  fitting  in 
after  years.  Nicknames  may  be  charm- 
ing, but  it  is  absurd,  to  say  the  least,  to 
hear  a  great,  tall  mass  of  wobbly  flesh 
addressed  as  "Dottie"  and  a  Httle 
fly-away  creature  with  a  fiery  temper 
called  "Patience"  or  "Prudence."  To 
some  the  matter  of  names  is  of  little 
consequence,  but  one  should,  at  least, 
give  a  child  a  name  that  will  not 
mortify. 

Japanese  girls  have  oddly  pretty 
names, — "CherryBlossom,""  Mimosa," 
"  Plum  Bloom  "  and  so  on, — names  that 
bring  to  mind  all  the  sweetness  of  a 
dainty  garden,  fragrant  roses,  trailing 
vines,  all  that  is  pure  and  lovely,  and 
fitting,  too,  as  our  girls  and  women  are 
supposed  to  represent  all  that  is  highest 
and  best  in  life. 

Hindoo  babes,  also,  are  given  pretty 
flower  names,  and  the  mother  usually 
chooses  the  name.  It  is  said  that 
Chinese  boys  are  given  a  name  which 
they  use  until  they  are  about  twenty, 
when  their  father  chooses  a  new  name. 
Mohammedans  often,  if  not  always, 
write  suitable  names  upon  slips  of 
paper  and  insert  these  between  pages 
of  the-  Koran  and  the  one  drawn  out  is 
the  child's  name. 

The  Egyptians  have  a  very  odd  way 
of  choosing.  Three  candles  are  lighted, 
each  being  given  a  name,  one  bearing 
that  of  some  exalted  personage.  The 
one  that  burns  longest  is  the  right  one, 
and,  should  it  be  that  of  an  exalted 
person,  there  is  great  rejoicing,  as  the 
baby  is  supposed  to  follow  in  his  foot- 
steps. 

With  the  many  beautiful  and  ap- 
propriate names  we  have,  it  seems  a 


pity  to  burden  a  child  with  the  ridicu- 
lous names  that  many  have.  Boys 
could  so  easily  be  given  an  inspiring 
name,  explaining  its  meaning  and  thus 
giving  him  the  incentive  of  being  all 
that  his  name  stands  for,  while  girls 
could  so  easily  bear  a  name  which  calls' 
for  simple  womanly  dignity  that  is 
always  charming,  either  in  maid  or 
matron.  e.  c.  l. 


A  Valuable  Hint 

EVEN  when  there  is  cream  in  the 
coffee  spilled  on  the  delicate  silk 
or  satin  gown,  pure  glycerine  rubbed 
over  the  spot  and  afterward  rinsed  off 
with  lukewarm  water,  then  pressed  on 
the  wrong  side,  will  eliminate  all  traces 
of  the  offending  liquid. 

Boiled  Ham,  Spanish 

After  boiling  the  whole  ham,  place 
it  in  the  oven  and  cover  with  a  soft 
dough  or  dredge  freely  with  flour ;  then 
stick  cloves  at  intervals  over  the  ham, 
and  pour  into  the  roasting  pan  about 
two  quarts  of  sweet  milk,  or  less,  if  the 
ham  is  not  a  large  one. 

Add  a  quarter  of  a  cup  of  brown 
sugar,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
baste  the  ham  frequently  with  this 
liquid  while  it  is  cooking.  It  will  be 
found  to  be  dehcious  in  flavor  and  the 
remaining  ' '  gravy ' '  is  good  to  use  with 
it.  A  great  improvement  over  the  plain 
boiled  ham. 

Something  About  Washing  Pongee 

Do  not  use  hot  water  nor  strong 
soap.  Instead  use  a  suds  made  from 
lukewarm  water  and  pure  white  soap; 
then  gently  rub  the  goods  with  the 
hands,  never  on  a  washboard,  as  this 
tends  to  draw  the  threads.  Rinse  in 
several  waters  and  then  hang  out  in  the 
air  until  it  is  "stone  dry."  Then  iron. 
Do  not  sprinkle,  nor  in  any  way  dampen 
the  goods,  for  if  you  do  you  will  be  in 
trouble.     Any  moisture,  even  that  of  a 


204 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


damp  cloth  placed  over  the  goods  while 
ironing,  will  be  certain  to  cause 
*' shadows"  and  spoil  the  good  effect. 
In  this  way  pongee  can  be  made  to  look 
like  new  and  not  show  it  has  been 
washed. 


* 


L.R. 


Peanut  Butter  Soup 

(An  excellent  emergency  soup.  This  serves  three  in  cups.) 

One  tablespoonful  of  peanut  butter 
worked  to  a  thin  paste  with  a  little 
milk.  Scald  one  and  one-half  cups  of 
milk  (a  Uttle  onion  may  be  used  in  this 
but  it  is  not  necessary).  Melt  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter  and  slowly  stir 
into  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour. 
Pour  the  scalded  milk  slowly  on  this, 
and  when  smooth  add  the  mixture  to 
the  peanut  butter  paste,  stirring  con- 
stantly.   Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

When  I  was  in  England  last,  I  had 
served  to  me  with  pea  soup  a  dish  of 
fine-chopped  dried  mint,  a  teaspoon- 
ful  or  so  to  be  sprinkled  on  the  soup. 

Dear  Madam:  I  send  these  verses 
for  your  magazine,  hoping  you  will  like 
them.  They  have  the  merit  of  being 
true. 

I  always  use  the  little  bag  of  bay- 
berries,  instead  of  wax,  for  smoothing 
the  irons..  The  little  bags,  if  daintily 
made,  are  a  pretty  addition  to  the 
Christmas  box. 

The  Bayberry  Bag 

'Twill  keep  your  iron  smooth  and  bright, 
And  never  shall  the  rim  of  white 

Be  seen  around  the  edge. 
Starch  cannot  stick,  nor  temper  fray, 
Your  ironing's  done  in  half  a  day 

When  from  the  bayberry  hedge 
This  little  pocket  of  delight 
Enters  your  home  to  cheer  your  sight. 

High  on  a  rocky  ledge 
From  crevices,  the  rocks  between, 
Came  forth  the  sprays  of  living  green. 

And  clustered  round,  these  tiny  pearls. 
With  fragrance  that  would  please  the  Queen — 

Or  even  Auntie's  little  girls — 
And  on  each  ironing  day 

Bring  visions  of  the  pastures  fair, 
With  glowing  lilies,  daisies  tall, 
And  all  along  the  old  stone  wall 

Bayberries  everywhere.  c.  j.  l.   p. 


The  Pineapple  as  a  Digestive  Aid 

The  partaking  of  a  slice  of  pineapple 
after  a  meal  is  quite  in  accordance  with 
physiologic  indications,  since,  though  it 
may  not  be  generally  known,  fresh 
pineapple  juice  contains  a  remarkably 
active  digestive  principle  similar  to  pep- 
sin. This  principle  has  been  termed 
"bromelin,"  and  so  powerful  is  its 
action  upon  proteids  that  it  will  digest 
as  much  as  1 ,000  times  its  weight  within 
a  few  hours.  Its  digestive  activity 
varies  in  accordance  with  the  kind  of 
proteid  to  which  it  is  subjected.  Fi- 
brin disappears  entirely  after  a  time. 
With  the  coagulated  albumen  of  eggs 
the  digestive  process  is  slow,  while  with 
the  albumen  of  meat  its  action  seems 
first  to  produce  a  pulpy,  gelatinous 
mass,  which,  however,  completely  dis- 
solves after  a  short  time.  When  a 
slice  of  fresh  pineapple  is  placed  upon 
a  raw  beefsteak  the  surface  of  the 
steak  becomes  gradually  gelatinous, 
owing  to  the  digestive  action  of  the 
enzym  of  the  juice.  Of  course,  it  is 
well  known  that  digestive  agents  exist 
also  in  other  fruits,  but  when  it  is  con- 
sidered that  an  average-sized  pine- 
apple will  yield  nearly  two  pints  of 
juice,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  digestive 
action  of  the  whole  fruit  must  be  enor- 
mous. The  activity  of  this  peculiar 
digestive  agent  is  destroyed  in  the 
cooked  pineapple,  but  unless  the  pine- 
apple is  preserved  by  heat  there  is  no 
reason  why  the  tinned  fruit  should  not 
retain  the  digestive  power.  The  ac- 
tive digestive  principle  may  be  ob- 
tained from  the  juice  by  dissolving  a 
large  quantity  of  common  salt  in  it, 
when  a  precipitate  is  obtained  possess- 
ing the  remarkable  digestive  powers 
just  described.  Unlike  pepsin,  the  di- 
gestive principle  of  the  pineapple  will 
operate  in  an  acid,  neutral,  or  even 
alkaline  medium,  according  to  the 
kind  of  proteid  to  which  it  is  presented. 
It  may,  therefore,  be  assumed  that  the 
pineapple  enzym  would  not  only  aid 


HOME  IDEAS  AND  ECONOMIES 


205 


the  work  of  digestion  in  the  stomach, 
but  would  continue  that  action  in  the 
intestinal  tract.  Pineapple,  it  may  be 
added,  contains  much  indigestible  mat- 
ter of  the  nature  of  woody  fiber,  but  it 
is  quite  possible  that  the  decidedly 
digestive  properties  of  the  juice  com- 
pensate for  this  fact.  —  Lancet. 


*  ** 


I  HAVE  often  looked  for  a  satisfactory 
recipe  for  caramel  icing,  but  all  that 
I  have  found  give  directions  for  making 
the  caramel  syrup  and  keeping  it, 
using  a  few  spoonfuls  at  a  time.  This 
I  did  not  like,  because  the  syrup  would 
harden  before  I  used  it.  I  have  finally 
succeeded  in  making  just  what  I  need 
in  the  following  way: 

Measure  1  cup  of  granulated  sugar. 
From  this  take  4  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar  and  cook  to  a  caramel;  add  \  a 
cup  of  boiling  water  and  cook  to  a  thick 
syrup.  Then  add  the  rest  of  the  cup  of 
sugar  and  \  a  cup  of  boiling  water  and 


boil  till  it  threads;  then  pour  over  the 
white  of  one  Qgg  beaten  dry  and  beat 
till  thick  and  cool  enough  to  spread. 

H.  M.B. 

Grandma's  Cookies 

An  odor  rich  comes  stealing 

From  out  the  oven  bright, 
That  sets  my  pulses  reehng 

And  gives  my  heart  delight ; 
I  think  of  joys  departed 

In  years  that  were  too  fleet, 
When  I  was  happy-hearted 

And  grandma's  cakes  were  sweet. 

While  I  sat  very  near  her 

She  molded  them  with  care, 
With  smiles  I  could  but  cheer  her 

Till  we  the  feast  might  share; 
With  caraway  all  savored, 

With  sugar  sifted  o'er 
Those  cookies  richly  flavored — 

What  boy  could  ask  for  more? 

But  grandma  has  departed 

To  join  the  Heavenly  throng, 
And  I  once  happy-hearted 

From  youth  have  wandered  long; 
No  gentle  voice  will  call  me 

To  haste  and  share  the  treat 
Of  odors  that  enthrall  me. 

Of  cookies  warm  and  sweet  r.  r. 


Thanksgiving 

By  Lalia  Mitchell 


Thy  sons  have  thanked  Thee,  Lord,  for  mighty  things. 

The  nation's  welfare  and  the  country's  good, 
For  Peace  that  brooded  o'er  us  with  white  wings, 
For  Plenty's  barn  and  bin  and  feathered  brood. 
For  safe  deliverance  from  flood  and  flame. 
For  high  estate  and  widely  honored  name. 
For  past  and  present  and  for  future  days, 
Lord,  they  have  given  Thee  exalted  praise. 

Thy  sons  have  thanked  Thee,  Lord,  and  now  would  I 
Lift  woman  hands  in  grateful  prayer  to  Thee. 

Hear  Thou,  as  well,  my  heart's  exultant  cry; 

Thou  hast  done  much,  this  past  year.  Lord,  for  me. 

And  I  would  offer  up  today  a  prayer 

Of  gratitude,  that  home  life  was  made  fair, 

That  I  was  left  clear-eyed  enough  to  see 

How  much  of  all  I  had  I  owed  to  Thee. 

Thy  sons  have  thanked  Thee,  Lord,  and  yet,  I  know 

Thy  daughters'  praises  reach  thy  waiting  ear; 
The  songs  they  sing,  in  minor  key  and  low. 

Are  clear  enough  that,  always.  Thou  canst  hear. 
For  hearthfires  burning  clear  at  set  of  sun, 
A  child's  low  laughter,  and  when  day  is  done 
A  dear  one  hastening  home,  o'er  street  or  lea; 
For  these  thy  daughters  offer  thanks  to  Thee. 


'TpHlS  department  is  for  the  benefit  and  free  use  of  our  subscribers.  Questions  relating 
•*■  to  recipes,  and  those  pertaining  to  culinary  science  and  domestic  economics  in 
general,  will  be  cheerfully  answered  by  the  editor.  Communications  for  this  department 
must  reach  us  before  the  first  of  the  month  preceding  that  in  which  the  answers  are  expected 
to  appear.  In  letters  requesting  answer  by  mail,  please  enclose  addressed  and  stamped 
envelope.  For  mentis  remit  $1.00.  Address  queries  to  Janet  M.  Hill,  editor,  Boston 
Cooking-School  Magazine,  372  Boylston  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


Query      1G47.  —  "Recipes    for     Roman 
Punch  and  Oyster  Cocktail." 

Roman  Punch 


1  quart  of  water 

2  cups  of  sugar 

h  a  teaspoonful  of 
granulated  gela- 
tine 

4  tablespoonfuls  of 
cold  water 


1  cup  of  lemon  juice 
White  of  1  egg  beaten 

dry 
^  cup  of  sugar 
^  a  cup  of  water 
^  a    cup    or   more    of 

rum 


Boil  the  first  two  ingredients  twenty 
minutes;  add  the  gelatine  softened  in 
cold  water,  and  when  cold  add  the 
lemon  juice  and  freeze.  Boil  the  one- 
third  a  cup  of  sugar  and  one-fourth  a 
cup  of  water  till  it  spins  a  thread,  and 
pour  on  the  beaten  white  as  when 
making  boiled  frosting;  beat  occasion- 
ally until  cold,  then  beat  into  the  frozen 
mixture.  Let  stand  an  hour  or  longer 
to  ripen.  When  ready  to  serve,  dip 
into  punch  glasses,  with  a  spoon  dipped 
in  warm  water;  make  a  hollow  in  the 
center  of  the  ice  in  each  glass  and  put 
in  a  teaspoonful  or  more  of  the  rum. 

Oyster  Cocktail 

Wash,  drain  and  chill  selected  oysters. 
Put  three  or  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
choice  tomato  catsup  in  a  cocktail  glass 
and  set  it  in  the  center  of  an  oyster 
plate  containing  cracked  ice.  On  the 
ice  around  the  glass  dispose  five  or 
six  oysters.  These  are  to  be  taken  up, 
one   at   a   time,   and   dipped   into   the 


catsup.  Additional  seasonings,  as  pap- 
rika or  tabasco,  lemon  juice,  salt  or 
horseradish,  may  be  added  at  pleasure 
to  the  catsup.  The  oysters  may,  if 
preferred,  be  added  to  the  catsup  in 
the  glasses.  Epicures  think  that  direct 
contact  with  ice  detracts  from  the 
flavor  of  the  oysters  and  prefer,  when 
oysters  in  the  shell  are  obtainable,  to 
have  the  oyster  shell  come  between 
the  oysters  and  the  ice.  That  is,  serve 
the  oysters  on  the  shells  around  the 
cocktail  glass. 


^  a  cup  of  shortening, 

melted 
1  teaspoonful  of  salt 
3  eggs 

1  cup  of  currants 
About  3  cups  of  flour 


Query  1648. —  "Recipes  for  Buns,  Lemon 
Punch,  Ice-Cream  Fruit  Sundae  and  Pan 
Gravy,  svich  as  is  served  at  hotels  with 
roast  beef. 

Buns 

1  cake  of  compressed 

yeast 
^  a  cup  of  water 

2  cups   milk,    scalded 

and  cooled 
About  3  cups  of  flour 
^  a  cup  of  sugar 

Soften  the  yeast  cake  in  the  water, 
and  mix  until  smooth ;  add  to  the  milk ; 
stir  in  the  flour,  then  beat  until  very 
smooth;  cover  and  set  aside  until  very 
light  and  bubbly.  Add  the  other  in- 
gredients and  mix  to  a  soft  dough. 
Knead  until  elastic  and  set  to  rise. 
When  doubled  in  bulk  roll  into  a  sheet 
and  cut  in  rounds.  Set  the  rounds  a 
little  distance  apart,  to  keep  the  shape. 


206 


QUERIES  AND  ANSWERS 


207 


When  doubled  in  bulk,  bake  about 
twenty-five  minutes.  Brush  the  tops 
of  the  buns  with  a  paste  made  by 
cooking  two  teaspoonfuls  of  corn- 
starch, made  smooth  in  cold  water, 
in  a  cup  of  boiling  water.  Return  to 
the  oven  to  dry  the  glaze.  If  a  crisp 
crust  is  preferred,  brush  over  with 
strained  white  of  egg  in  place  of  the 
starch  mixture. 


Squash  Buns 

I  a  cup  of  brown  sugar 
I  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt 
\  a     cup     of    melted 

butter 
About  3  cups  of  bread 

flour 


J  a  cake  of  _  com- 
pressed yeast 

^  a  cup  of  lukewarm 
water 

^  a  cup  of  scalded 
milk 

^  a  cup  of  cooked 
squash 

Soften  the  yeast  in  the  water,  add 

the   other   ingredients   and   mix   to   a 

soft  dough.    Knead  nearly  ten  minutes, 

using  no  more  flour  than  is  necessary. 

Cover  and  let  stand  over  night.      In 

the  morning  the  mixture  should  have 

doubled  in  bulk.    Turn  upside  down  on 

a  floured  board,  then  pat  and  roll  into 

a  sheet  nearly  an  inch  thick.     Dip  a 

cutter  in   flour  and   cut  into   rounds. 

Set  these   close   together  in  a  baking 

pan,   first  brushing  the   surfaces  that 

will  come  in  contact  with  melted  butter. 

When    very    Hght    (doubled    in    bulk) 

bake  about  half  an  hour.     Glaze  with 

starch  and  sugar  just  before  removing 

from  the  oven. 

Lemon  Punch 

We  suppose  a  recipe  for  the  ordinary 
lemon  sherbet  is  the  one  desired.  For 
this  see  recipe  for  lemon  sherbet,  given 
in  answer  to  request  for  Roman  Punch, 
Query  1647. 

Ice-Cream  Fruit  Sundae 

Prepare  an  ice-cream  mixture  that 
does  not  call  for  eggs  —  as  Junket  or 
thin  cream  sweetened  and  flavored  — 
and  freeze  in  the  usual  manner.  When 
ready  to  serve  put  a  spoonful  of  some 
variety  of  fruit  preparation  in  the 
bottom  of  a  glass  cup,  above  this  dis- 


pose the  ice  cream,  finishing  with  more 
of  the  fruit.  In  their  season,  fresh 
fruits  crushed  and  mixed  with  sugar 
are  available.  At  this  season,  preserved 
strawberries,  raspberry  jam,  sifted  to 
exclude  the  seeds,  or  figs  stewed,  sifted 
and  sweetened,  may  be  used.  Mara- 
schino may  be  added  to  the  first  two 
fruits  and  sherry  to  the  figs,  if  desired. 
Preserved  ginger  (stems,  in  jars) 
chopped  and  mixed  with  the  figs  is 
particularly  good. 

Pan  Gravy  for  Roast  Beef 

We  are  somewhat  in  doubt  as  to 
whether  platter  gravy  or  brown  sauce 
is  the  article  referred  to,  so  give  both. 
Platter  gravy  is  the  unadulterated 
juice  of  the  meat  which  drops  to  the 
platter  during  carving.  Brown  sauce 
is  made  from  the  juices  of  the  meat 
that  have  browned  and  adhered  to  the 
pan  during  the  cooking  of  the  meat. 
When  the  meat  is  done,  remove  it  from 
the  pan,  pour  off  all  the  fat,  then  turn 
into  the  pan  about  a  cup  and  a  half 
of  beef  broth  or  water,  as  is  convenient. 
Return  the  pan  to  the  fire  and  let  the 
Hquid  simmer  until  the  browned  meat 
juices  are  taken  up  by  the  water.  Put 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  the  fat  or 
dripping  into  a  small  saucepan;  when 
hot  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  ordi- 
nary flour  or  twice  the  quantity  of 
browned  flour  (flour  cooked  and  stirred 
in  the  oven  until  brown  throughout) 
and  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  salt; 
stir  and  cook  until  frothy,  then  add  the 
liquid  from  the  pan,  cooled  a  little, 
and  stir  until  boiling.  More  salt  may 
be  needed. 


Query  1649.  —  "When  and  how  are 
Frozen  Fruits  and  Punches  to  be  served? 
Recipe  for  Roman  Punch.  Is  it  advisable 
to  use  canning  powder?" 

Serving  of  Frozen   Fruits   and 
Punches 

Fresh  fruit,  sliced  if  needed  and 
sugared  slightly,  is  thoroughly  chilled — 
not    frozen  —  and    served    as    an    ap- 


208 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


petizer  or  as  a  part  of  the  dessert 
course.  The  juice  of  fruit,  diluted  with 
sugar  syrup  or  water  and  sugar,  is 
frozen  and  served  with  or  just  after  a 
roast  of  meat,  poultry,  etc.,  or  in  the 
dessert  course.  Punch,  which  is  some 
sort  of  spirit  added  to  a  frozen  fruit- 
juice  mixture,  is  always  served  after 
the  roast  and  before  the  game.  A 
recipe  for  Roman  Punch  is  given  in 
answer  to  Query  1647. 

Canning  Powder 

It  is  neither  necessary  nor  advisable 
to  use  canning  powder.  By  following 
the  directions  previously  given  in  these 
pages  all  fruits  and  almost  all  varieties 
of  vegetables  may  be  canned  success- 
fully. Among  the  varieties  of  vege- 
tables that  we  have  seen  put  up  in 
private  kitchens  this  season,  and  are 
now  in  good  condition,  are  peas,  string 
beans  (green  and  white),  com,  carrots, 
asparagus,  beets,  squash  and  pumpkin. 


Query  1650.  —  "Recipes  for  Mince  Meat 
and  a  Slightly  Sweetened  Rusk." 


4  lbs.  of  cooked  beef, 

chopped 
1  lb.  of  sugar 

1  quart  of  molasses 
3  lbs.  of  large  raisins 

2  lbs.  of  suet,  chopped 

fine 
By  measure  twice  as 
much   chopped 
apple  as  beef 
2  lbs.  of  currants 
^  a  lb. of  citron, cut  fine 


Mince  Meat 

2 


tablespoonfuls 

salt 
1      tablespoonful 

cinnamon 
1      tablespoonful 

mace 
^  a   tablespoonful   of 

clove 
1  nutmeg,  grated 
3  lemons  grated,  rind 

and  juice 


1  quart  of  cider 
Do  not  chop  the  apples  in  a  food 
chopper.  Let  the  meat  cool  in  the 
liquid  in  which  it  was  cooked.  Use 
the  broth  to  moisten  the  mixture. 
Orange  juice  and  grated  rind  improves 
the  mixture.  Add  also  left-over  jeUies 
or  preserves  or  from  sweet  pickles. 

Slightly  Sweetened  Rusks 

Flour  for  a  sponge 
1  teaspoonful  of  salt 
i  to  f  a  cup  of  butter 
i  to  1^  a  cup  of  sugar 
3  eggs 
Flour  for  a  dough 


2  cups  of  scalded  and 

cooled  milk 
1  cake  of  compressed 

yeast 
i  a  cup  of  lukewarm 

water 


Make  a  sponge  of  the  first  four 
ingredients;  when  light  add  the  others 
and  knead  until  smooth  and  elastic. 
When  doubled  in  bulk,  shape  into 
finger  rolls;  set  these  close  together  in 
a  bread  pan  and  when  light  bake  about 
half  an  hour.  Cut  in  slices  and  dry  out 
in  a  warming  oven,  then  color  delicately 
in  a  hotter  oven.  Reheat  before 
serving. 

Query  1651.  —  "Recipe  for  Soft  Butter 
Frosting." 

Mocha  Cream 

^  a  cup  of  butter 
1  yolk  of  egg 
l\  cups  of  sifted  con- 
fectioner's sugar 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream;  beat  in 
the  yolk,  then  the  sugar  and,  lastly, 
the  extract,  drop  by  drop.  A  cup  of 
strong  coffee  reduced  by  simmering  to 
one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  may  re- 
place the  extract. 

Chocolate  Cream 

Chocolate  cream  may  be  made  by 
gradually  beating  into  the  butter  an 
ounce  of  chocolate  melted  over  hot 
water,  then  in  place  of  the  coffee 
extract  use  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 


Coffee  extract  to  fla- 
vor and  tint  as 
desired 


Query  1652.  —  "Recipe  for  Squirrel 
Pie." 

Squirrel  Pie 

Have  the  squirrels  carefully  cleaned 
and  singed.  Separate  into  pieces  at 
the  joints,  nine  in  all.  Put  these  in  an 
earthen  dish;  add  salt  and  pepper  and 
one  pint  of  boiling  water  or  highly  sea- 
soned meat  stock,  cover  the  dish  and 
let  cook  in  the  oven  about  two  hours, 
or  until  tender.  Stir  in  two  or  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful of  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  mixed  smoothly  with  cold 
water.  Continue  stirring  until  the 
sauce  boils.  Remove  from  the  oven 
to  cool  a  little  while  the  crust  is  made 
ready.  Roll  the  crust  to  fit  the  dish. 
Have   it   one-fourth   an  inch  thick,  if 


Little  Dinners  for  Christmas 


I 

Crabflake  Canapes,  Maltaise 
Roast  Pork,  Tenderloin 

Apple  Sauce 

Turnips  in  Cream  Sauce 

Mashed  Potatoes 

Celery-and-Nut  Salad 

Frozen  Eggnog 

Coffee 

II 

Grape-fruit  Cocktail  with  Maraschino  Cherries 

Roast  Turkey,  Giblet  Sauce 

Mashed  Potatoes 

Squash 

Cranberry  Sauce 

Coupe  Thais 

Lady  Fingers.     Marrons  Glac^ 

Coffee 

III 

Christmas  Consomm^ 

Celery.     Salted  Nuts 

Roast  Goose,  Potato  Stuffing 

Sweet-Pickle  Jelly 

Hot  Mince  Pie.     Vanilla  Ice  Cream 

Raisins.     Nuts.     Bonbons 

Coffee 


The 
Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


Vol.  XV 


DECEMBER,   1910 


Xo.  5 


Pottery  of  Today  and  Yesterday 


Bv  Mar\-  H.  Xorthend 


THE  ceramic  art  is  nearly  as  old 
as  the  human  race.  Its  true 
origin  will  probably  never  be 
known,  since  the  lapse  of  ages  hides  it 
in  the  mist  of  antiquity,  weaving  about 
it  many  pleasing  stories  which  are 
plainly  fabulous.  The  earliest  written 
records  abound  in  references  to  pottery- 
making  as  an  established  process,  and 
in  every  nation  where  it  has  reached 
its  highest  development  the  progress 
of  this  useful  art  is  closely  interwoven 
with  the  history  of  the  country. 

The  term  "pottery"  is  of  wide  and 
general  application,  including  unglazed 
earthenware,  highh'  glazed  stoneware, 
and.  delicate  porcelain,  which  is  often 
translucent.  All  primitive  work  be- 
longs to  the  first  order,  and  is  well 
illustrated  by  the  Eg}'ptian  jars,  deco- 
rated in  relief,  using  as  motifs  various 
animal  forms,  together  with  lozenges 
and  meanders.  Archaic  Greek  work  is 
very  similar,  so  are  the  urns  found  in 
Central  America,  the  decorated  vases 
of  the  Mound  Builders,  the  water 
bottles  of  the  Peruvians,  and  the 
potter}^  made  today  by  ^lexican  and 
Pueblo  Indians.     Jars  made  from  such 


ware  are  not  watertight.  They  are 
similar  in  texture  to  our  common 
flower-pots. 

Stoneware  results  from  the  next  step 
upward,  and  this  bears  a  glaze,  which 
makes  the  object  waterproof.  These 
different  stages  are  partly  the  result  of 
dift"erent  temperatures  in  firing,  and 
partly  of  the  kind  of  clay  used  in  their 
manufacture. 

The  highest  form  of  pottery  is  that 
of  porcelain,  which  was  first  made  in 
China,  and,  therefore,  the  name  of  the 
country  was  given  to  this  important 
product.  By  the  twelfth  century, 
China  was  manufacturing  all  kinds  of 
pottery  worthy  of  note,  while  no  other 
nation  had  advanced  farther  than  the 
making  of  unglazed  earthenware. 

From  the  closed  country  of  China, 
the  art  of  porcelain-making  was  carried 
to  the  equally  closed  country  of  Japan, 
where  it  reached  a  still  higher  degree 
of  perfection,  not  so  much  in  the  body 
or  glaze  of  the  ware  as  in  its  decoration, 
for  which  the  Japanese  are  justly 
famous.  When  Japan  opened  her  ports 
to  the  Dutch,  her  largest  export  was 
porcelain. 


211 


212 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Not  long  after  this,  English  potters 
began  to  attempt  the  manufacture  of 
chinaware,  instead  of  the  unglazed 
earthenware  which  had  hitherto  been 
their  only  production.  To  this  end  the 
composition  of  the  porcelain  was  care- 
fully studied  and  the  glaze,  especially, 
was  thoroughly  examined. 

The  first  English  ware  that  at  all 
resembled  porcelain  was  the  salt  glaze 
of  Staffordshire,  which  was  fine,  white 
and  nearly  translucent.  This  was  so 
great  a  triumph  for  the  potters  who 
made  the  discovery  that  they  guarded 
the  secret  of  their  glaze-making  with 
the  utmost  care,  choosing  an  idiot  to 
be  their  glazer,  and  only  the  most 
stupid  of  the  men  to  tend  furnaces. 
The  process,  however,  was  not  destined 
to  remain  secret.  Spies  learned  the 
truth,  and  carried  the  intelligence  to 
neighboring  potteries,  until  the  busi- 
ness of  making  salt  glaze  became  a 
leading  industry  of  Staffordshire.  Other 
glazes  quickly  followed,  until  it  is  now 
probable    that    English    potters    have 


produced  more  different  varieties  of 
ware  than  those  of  any  other  country. 

As  to  native  manufactures  of  pottery, 
the  first  clay  to  be  used  for  this  pur- 
pose was  dug  in  Virginia,  and  exported 
to  England,  to  be  used  by  Trye  for 
china-making,  at  Bow.  A  little  later, 
Wedgwood  used  some  clays  from  Amer- 
ica. In  1771,  a  little  porcelain  factory 
was  started  in  Philadelphia,  but  it 
turned  out  only  a  few  pieces,  and  it 
was  not  until  the  first  quarter  of  the 
nineteenth  century  was  past  that  a 
pottery  at  Jersey  City  made  cream- 
colored  and  printed  ware,  and  did  its 
own  throwing  and  burning  on  English 
principles. 

Most  of  our  colonial  pottery  was 
made  and  decorated  in  other  countries, 
but  in  Pennsylvania  are  still  shown  pie- 
plates  made  by  the  early  German 
settlers.  One  plate  is  dated  1733.  All 
are  flat  and  nearly  rimless.  The 
pottery  is  coarse  in  texture,  the  glazes 
are  crude  and  unfinished,  but  the 
decoration    shows    remarkably    credit- 


A  Group  of  Garden  Pottery 


POTTERY  OF  TODAY  AXD  YESTERDAY 


213 


Pitcher  and  Steixs  Thrown  on  Wheel 


able  strength  and  originality.  This 
local  output  was  the  work  of  David 
Spinner.  He  apparently  used  no  wheel, 
but  molded  his  work  by  hand.  He 
used  the  native  buff  clay,  which  turns 
red  in  burning.  This  foundation  he 
covered  with  a  coating  of  New  Jersey 
blue  clay,  which  burned  white.  Through 
this  outer  coat  was  scratched  the  out- 
line of  the  decoration,  touched  up  with 
oxide  of  copper,  and  the  plate  was 
treated  to  a  glaze  of  red  lead  and  buff 
clay.  The  final  effect  is  that  of  a  design 
burned  red  against  a  green-spotted 
yellow  background,  and  bears  a  strik- 
ing resemblance  to  Itahan  majohca. 

The  use  of  the  potter's  wheel,  to 
which  reference  has  just  been  made, 
is  one  of  the  oldest  known  processes, 
nor  has  its  use  varied  materially  since 
Pharaoh  Necho  built  his  pyramid.  The 
wheel  is  simply  a  revolving  metal  disc, 
with  absolutely  no  complications.  It 
is  as  simple  as  a  grindstone,  and  a  great 
deal  smaller.  It  can  be  made  to  revolve 
by  hand,  by  foot,  by  steam,  or  by 
electric  power.  In  ancient  Egypt,  the 
potter  squatted  on  the  ground,  in  front 
of  his  wheel,  which  he  turned  with  one 
hand,  while  he  formed  the  jar  with  the 
other.  The  Greek  potter  turned  his 
wheel  by  foot  power,  as  the  good  house- 
wife runs  her  sewing-machine.  Even 
now,  steam  power  is  used  only  for 
small  articles  that  are  quickly  made. 
while  those  requiring  extreme  care  are 
made  upon  a  hand-wheel,   turned  by 


an  assistant.  To  see  one  of  these 
wheels  in  use  comes  nearer  to  magic 
than  we  often  attain.  We  cease  to 
wonder  at  the  constant  references  made 
to  the  potter's  wheel  in  all  ancient 
literature.  Fancy  a  formless  lump  of 
clay  that  under  the  touch  of  fingers 
and  the  magic  disc  rises  into  a  slender 
and  stately  vase;  then  is  transformed 
into  a  low,  circular  bowl;  then,  at  a 
touch,  goes  back  into  its  original  form- 
lessness. 

In  handcraft  work  the  wheel  is  not 
always  necessary.  It  is  customary  for 
classes  to  mold  by  hand,  after  the 
fashion  of  David  Spinner,  such  objects 
as  jars,  fern  dishes,  jardinieres,  vases, 
lamp  bowls,  desk  fittings,  and  candle- 
sticks. The  native  clays,  as  used  in 
potteries,  require  a  great  deal  of  prepa- 
ration to  fit  them  for  working.  Hand- 
craft classes  use  composite  clay,  plasta, 
or  plasterine,  which  comes  already 
prepared,  and  requires  only  the  addi- 
tion of  sufficient  water  to  make  it 
plastic.  ^Moreover,  these  prepared  clays 
are  so  tinted  with  coloring  matter  as 
to  afford,  with  no  further  care,  desirable 
shades  of  cream,  olive,  or  terra-cotta. 
They  can  be  bought  in  any  large  town, 
at  stores  which  handle  kindergarten 
supplies,  and  are  very  inexpensive. 

They  come  in  the  form  of  a  dry  pow- 
der, and  must  be  mixed  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  water,  and  let  stand  over- 
night. Then,  in  the  morning,  the  clay 
must  be  kneaded  thoroughly  upon  a 


214 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


molding  board,  until  all  the  air  bubbles 
are  worked  out,  which  can  be  seen  by 
cutting  or  breaking  off  pieces,  from 
time  to  time.  A  rolling  pin  is  then 
used  to  flatten  the  mass  out  into  a 
sheet  of  uniform  size,  before  building 
up  the  sides  of  a  jardiniere.  The  left 
hand  is  held  inside,  to  support  the 
sides  while  the  clay  is  being  added. 
Tools  made  for  the  purpose  help  the 
beginner  in  shaping  the  sides,  but  the 
great  bulk  of  the  work  is  done  by 
hands  and  fingers. 

The  hand-modeled  pottery  must  be 
perfectly  dry  before  it  is  sent  to  the 
kiln  to  be  fired.  This  is  the  time  to 
change  the  color,  if  a  change  seems 
preferable.  An  easy  and  practical 
method  of  obtaining  what  is  known 
as  a  matt  glaze  is  that  of  applying 
ordinary  tube-oil  colors  moistened  with 
turpentine.  A  wax  finish  can  be  given 
to  them  afterward. 

Art  pottery  is  often  left  in  a  dull  and 
porous  finish,  although  the  surface  ma}^ 
be  covered  w4th  a  coating  of  fused 
matter,  known  as  glaze.  The  best  wa}^ 
to  color  pottery,  without  the  use  of 
glaze,  is  to  buv  the  raw  colors,  in  the 


form  of  powder,  at  any  paint  store, 
mix  with  gum  arable  and  dextrine, 
using  water  to  reduce  the  whole  to  the 
thickness  of  cream.  Apply  while  the 
clay  is  moist,  and  set  aside  for  three 
hours,  while  the  color  is  setting.  Then 
work  the  color  smooth,  with  the  back 
of  a  spoon,  and  the  gloss  thus  imparted 
will  remain  after  firing,  when  unglazed 
pottery  will  be  improved  greatly  in 
appearance,  if  its  outer  surface  is  treated 
with  floor  wax  well  rubbed  in,  to  fill 
up  the  pores  and  tone  down  the  harsh- 
ness of  the  coloring. 

Glazed  pottery  requires  two  firings, 
in  order  to  be  successful,  and  a  vase 
must  be  glazed  inside,  if  it  is  intended 
to  hold  water.  Red  lead  can  be 
bought  in  the  form  of  powder  and 
dusted  thoroughly  upon  the  damp  clay. 
The  heat  of  the  kiln  liquefies  this,  and 
covers  the  inside  with  a  vitreous  coating. 

The  work  of  making  art  pottery  is 
fascinating,  and  can  easily  be  carried 
on,  without  a  studio,  in  the  ordinary 
home.  Sometimes  work  taken  up  as 
a  pastime  reveals  the  natural  trend  of 
unsuspected  genius.  Adelaide  Alsop 
Robineau,  of  Svracuse,  N.Y.,  who  now 


A  Small  Pottery  Exhibit 


POTTERY  OF  TODAY  AND  YESTERDAY 


215 


Jars  and  Jardinieres  Molded  in  Casts 


makes  a  grade  of  genuine  American 
porcelain  equal  to  the  finest  Sevres, 
began  by  dabbling  in  china-painting. 
She  now  stands  at  the  head  of  modem 
pottery-making  in  this  country,  throws 
her  work  upon  a  wheel  run  by  elec- 
tricity, and  conducts  valuable  experi- 
ments in  mixing  clays  and  in  coloring 
under  the  glaze,  before  the  first  firing, 
at  abnormally  high  temperature. 

It  is  worth  much  to  the  worker  to 
feel  that  she  is  in  line  with  the  long 
procession  of  artists  who  worked  out 
their  dreams  in  pottery.  A  visit  to 
the  Rookwood  plant  would  arouse  any 
true  American  to  enthusiasm.  This 
was,  perhaps,  the  first  American  firm 
to  conduct  work  along  modern  lines, 
and  their  product  needs  only  to  be 
seen  to  be  appreciated.  The  visitor 
to  Cincinnati  should  never  omit  a  trip 
to  the  pottery,  even  if  time  is  very 
limited.  A  few  moments  will  convince 
the  critic  that  we  need  not  go  outside 
our  own  country,  in  order  to  find 
models  of  pottery  that  are  in  every 
way  worthy  of  that  imitation  which  is 
said  to  be  the  sincerest  flattery. 


There  is  a  peculiar  charm  about  the 
decorating  room,  where  may  be  seen 
the  terra-cotta  or  biscuit  ware,  adorned 
with  lovely  designs  for  the  second  fir- 
ing. In  the  case  of  all  highly-glazed 
china  and  earthenware,  the  firing  has 
to  be  done  by  installments.  The  un- 
decorated  ware  is  first  baked  to  the 
form  of  terra-cotta  or  biscuit.  If 
underglaze  decoration  be  desired,  it 
must  be  applied  to  the  objects  in  this 
biscuit  state,  the  colors  must  be  per- 
mitted to  dry,  the  articles  must  be 
dipped  in  the  glaze,  and  then  fired  in 
the  second  kiln  for  glaze  onl}^.  This 
would  complete  Rookwood  ware,  or 
any  other  pottery  with  the  underglaze 
finish. 

Some  other  wares  receive  further 
decoration  by  the  process  which  has 
become  familiar  in  hand-painted  china, 
that  of  placing  over  the  glaze  colors, 
which  require  to  be  fixed  permanently 
by  firing  the  ware  in  a  third  kiln,  called 
the  "enamel-kiln."  Still  other  deco- 
rations, of  gold  or  of  colored  enamel, 
may  be  added  later,  and  these  will 
necessitate    still    further    firings.      The 


21t) 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


principle  involved,  which  every  deco- 
rator of  china  knows  by  heart,  is  that 
in  such  a  series  of  burnings  every  kiln 
goes  up  to  a  lower  heat  than  that 
which  preceded  it,  in  order  not  to  spoil 
the  full  effect  by  burning  out  the  more 
delicate  colors. 

Of  course,  those  colors  that  are  not 
fixed  by  heat  cannot  be  seriously  re- 
garded as  pottery  colors,  and  the  true 
potter  looks  askance  upon  the  brilliant 
effects  sometimes  produced  by  the  use 
of  oil  colors  painted  upon  red  biscuit- 
ware,  because  he  thinks  that  only  true 
pottery  colors,  such  as  will  stand  the 
intense  heat  of  glazing,  really  belong 
to  pottery.  Real  porcelain  has  no 
color  added  after  glazing. 

The  decorative  value  of  good  pottery 
can  hardly  be  overestimated.  Nothing 
in  the  modem  home  so  well  supplies 
the  demand  for  ornament.  Nothing 
else  lends  the  same  color  and  in- 
terest to  an  interior  scheme,  and  the 
graceful  vase  is  the  ideal  mantel  dec- 
oration. 

Fortunately,  for  the  great  majority, 
who  cannot  find  time  or  talent  for 
handcraft  pottery  of  their  own  or 
wherewithal  to  buy  the  wares  of  the 
old-time  master  potters — treasures  of 
Sevres,  Royal  Worcester  or  Royal 
Dresden — there  are  many  modem  wares 
of  no  less  beauty,  if  we  will  but  use 
good  taste  in  making  our  selection. 
These  original  factories,  under  famous 


names  and  trade-marks,  are  today 
turning  out  work  that  is  reasonable  in 
price,  yet  no  less  beautiful,  and  other 
wares  are  made  in  excellent  imitation, 
which  have  the  advantage  of  being 
even  less  expensive. 

The  Sevres  and  the  Royal  Vienna 
are  still  noted  for  their  courtly  air, 
their  gold  wash,  and  their  deep  color- 
ing. The  real  Delft  of  today  gives  the 
well-known  Holland  scenes,  although 
executed  by  modem  artists.  Just  as 
of  yore,  the  Royal  Dresden  is  known 
by  its  conventional  trees  and  conven- 
tion wreaths  of  roses;  while  the  deco- 
rations upon  Royal  Copenhagen,  by 
depicting  marsh  or  fish  or  seashore 
birds,  contrive  to  convey  a  salty 
suggestion. 

The  pottery  of  the  Art  Nouveau 
style  is  decorated  with  conventional 
flowers  in  subdued  blendings  of  reds, 
greens  and  yellows.  The  Mission 
pottery  is  shaped  like  the  pots  of  the 
Pueblo  Indians,  and  decorated  in  gray 
and  brown  vistas  from  the  old  Cali- 
fornia mission  houses,  shown  against 
a  green  background.  Colonial  wares 
show  a  larger  assortment  of  plates, 
jars  and  vases,  upon  which  Colonial 
or  Revolutionary  pictures  appear  in 
blue  against  a  white  background.  It 
will  be  readily  seen  that  all  these 
articles  are  of  too  pronounced  a  type 
to  appear  well  out  of  their  proper 
setting.     The  Colonial  jar  in  the  Art 


Green  Candlesticks  Molded  by  Hand 


THE  CHRISTMAS  TREE 


217 


Nouveau  room  would  strike*  a  false 
note  in  the  scheme  of  decoration. 

More  permanent  satisfaction  will  be 
derived  from  a  selection  of  wares  that 
please  in  form  and  color  rather  than 
in  pictorial  interest.  Several  of  our 
American  manufacturers,  under  the 
guidance  of  trained  artists,  are  now 
putting  out  jars  and  vases  that  are 
excellent  for  home  decoration.  Their 
graceful  shapes  and  soft,  subdued 
colorings  of  rich  brown  combine  to 
make  pottery  which,  in  its  decorative 
quality,  vies  with  cloisonne  and  with  the 
best  Chinese  and  Japanese  porcelains. 

In  choosing  pottery  for  any  room, 
our  first  care  should  be'  to  avoid  in- 
harmonious colorings.  A  vase  should 
not  clash  with  the  color  scheme,  nor 
shou*ld  it  deepen  or  brighten  the 
general  tone  to  an  extent  that  is 
appreciable. 

Having  eliminated  pronounced  styles 
of  the  wrong  period  and  colors  lacking 
in  harmony,  we  have  only  to  suit  our 
decorations  to  the  different  rooms  of 
the  house,  since  this  plan  also  makes 
for  permanent  satisfaction. 


If  you  are  so  fortunate  as  to  own 
an  Apostle  mug,  put  it  in  library  or 
living-room,  rather  than  in  den  or 
dining-room.  The  fine  Moorish  vase 
may  well  be  placed  in  the  library.  The 
den  may  be  decked  with  steins,  plaques 
and  Indian  pots.  Confine  all  tableware 
to  the  dining-room,  along  with  china 
and  porcelain.  The  old  English  plate- 
rail,  restored  to  favor,  gives  the  finest 
opportunity  to  achieve  decorative 
effects  in  chinaware.  By  the  use  of 
due  restraint,  this  shelf  will  not  be 
overcrowded,  nor  will  there  be  dis- 
cord in  the  arrangement  of  dift'erent 
shape,  sizes  and  colorings.  It  should 
be  remembered  that  large  plates  and 
platters  occupy  so  much  surface  as  to 
make  their  design  and  coloring  pecu- 
liarly prominent,  therefore  care  should 
be  taken  that  they  harmonize  with  the 
dining-room  furnishings.  Even  in  this 
room,  the  aim  should  be  to  decorate 
with  due  discretion  rather  than  to 
make  a  pottery  exhibit,  and  it  is 
neither  wise  nor  necessary  to  show  all 
our  pretty  china,  at  the  same  time,  for 
purposes  of  interior  decoration. 


The  Christmas  Tree 


By  Charles  E.  Jenney 


If  I  had  a  garden,  what  do  you  s'pose 
The  first  thing  I'd  plant  would  be? 
You  can't  guess,  for  nobody  knows; 
"   I  would  plant  me  a  Christmas  tree. 

Say,  that's  the  kind  of  a  tree  I  would  grow! 
Blossoms,  you  know,  all  with  tinsel  and 
light: 
Pop-corn  sprinkles  it  over  like  snow, 

And  the  fruit  gets  ripe  just  on  Christmas 
night. 

And  what   do   you  think  this  strange  tree 
bears? 

Dolls  for  the  girls  and  sleds  for  the  boys; 
Mittens  and  boots  and  skates  in  pairs; 

And  drums  and  trumpets  for  making  noise. 


The  green  twigs  bend  with  their  candy  bags; 

New  books  you  can  pick  from  the  lower 
boughs; 
And  every  branch  on  the  whole  tree  sags 

With  the  things  a  feller  needs  in  the  house. 

There's  a  Jack-in-the-box  and  a  toy  car; 

There's  a  rattle  for  baby,  a  new  peg  top; 
And  if  you  shin  up  ever  so  far, 

There's  usually  somethin'  for  Mom  and 
Pop. 

Oh,  say!  'tis  the  jolliest  kind  of  a  tree, 

With  the  cranberries  red  and  the  pop-corn 
white, 

And  the  harvest  is  always  sure  to  be 
Every  year  upon  Christmas  night. 


A  Co-operative  Christmas  Dinner 

By  Maude  E.  S.  Hymers 


"T  'M  afraid  you  will  have  to  change 

I    your  Christmas  plans,  Grace.  This 

-■-  letter  from  father  says  that 
mother  is  hardly  strong  enough  to  have 
us  all  down  there  this  year,  as  usual." 

Mr.  Robson's  expression  was  apolo- 
getic, as  he  met  his  wife's  surprised 
eyes  across  the  table. 

"The  idea!  Mother  Robson  isn't 
sick,  is  she?" 

"Not  sick,  exactly,  but  —  well, 
here's  what  father  says:  'Now,  we 
hope  you  all  know  how  glad  mother 
and  I  always  are  to  have  you  boys 
and  your  families  down  here  at  holiday 
time,  and  we  hate  to  spoil  a  good  cus- 
tom; but  we're  getting  a  little  old,  and 
you  four  boys  and  your  youngsters 
seem  a  good  many  for  mother  to  do 
for  all  alone.  If  we  could  get  help  for 
her,  we  could  manage,  but  we  can't 
an}^  more;  and  last  year  she  was  sick 
two  weeks  after  it  was  over,  from 
working  so  hard  to  get  up  a  good 
dinner  and  have  everything  just  right. 
She  ain't  quite  so  strong  this  year  as 
she  was  last,  so  I  thought  I'd  write 
and  tell  you.  Now,  she  don't  know 
I'm  writing  this,  and  she  wouldn't  let 
me,  if  she  did;  but  I  hope  you'll  under- 
stand how  it  is  and  explain  to  the 
others.'" 

"Why,  how  queer!"  exclaimed,  Mrs. 
Robson,  in  the  same  tone  in  which  she 
w^ould  have  said,  how  mean! 

Mr.  Robson,  smiled  deprecatingly. 
"Mother's  getting  old,  you  know,  and 
there  is  quite  a  bunch  of  us  all  to- 
gether." 

"But,  how  strange  it  will  seem  not 
to  go  to  the  country  for  the  holidays," 
lamented  his  wife. 

"Wanna  do  to  Dranma's  for  Trist- 
mas,"  shrilled  little  James,  beating  on 
the  table  with  his  spoon. 

"Why,  we've  always  been  to  Grand- 


ma's for  Christmas,  ever  since  I  can 
remember,"  exclaimed  eight-year-old 
Gracie,  the  suspicion  of  a  tear  in  her  eye. 

"That's  so, —  I  believe  we  have;  and 
every  year  since  we  were  married,  too." 

"Well,  so  have  John  and  Harold 
and  Warren,  with  their  famiHes;  and 
there  are  more  of  them  than  there  are 
of  us,  too,"  said  Mrs.  Robson,  as 
though  answering  an  accusation. 

"Seems  as  though  we  might  have 
had  father  and  mother  out  here 
occasionally,  for  a  change,  at  least," 
remarked  Mr.  Robson,  thoughtfully, 
buttering  a  muffin. 

"In  these  rooms?"  challenged  his 
wife.  "I  thought  they  wanted  to  have 
all  the  children  together,  and  neither 
one  of  us  has  a  dining-room  large 
enough  to  accommodate  so  many." 

"Maybe  so;  strange  I  never  thought 
of  it  before,  but,  now  that  I  do,  it  looks 
a  little  bit  one-sided  to  me." 

"I'm  sure  it  wasn't  any  more  our 
place  to  have  them  out  than  it  was  the 
others',"  declared  his  wife,  discontent- 
edly. 

"Well,  anyhow,  suppose  we  invite 
mother  and  father  out  for  this  Christ- 
mas," said  Mr.  Robson,  after  a  moment. 

"Oh,  very  well;  I  suppose,  you  can 
manage  it,  since  you  insist,"  said  Mrs. 
Robson,  grudgingly. 

And  in  this  enthusiastic  spirit  a 
letter  was  written  and  despatched  to 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Robson,  Senior,  at  their 
cozy  home  in  the  country,  asking  them 
to  spend  Christmas  in  the  city  with 
the  James  Robsons. 

"Just  as  I  expected,  they  won't 
come,"  exclaimed  Mrs.  James,  as  she 
handed  her  husband  his  father's  letter. 
"What  can  be  the  matter  with  them, 
anyway?" 

"Both  got  rheumatism,  eh?  poor, 
old  people!  'Not  sick  enough  to  be  in 


218 


A  CO-OPERATIVE  CHRISTMAS  DINNER 


219 


bed,  but  suffering  too  much  to  make  a 
railroad  journey  agreeable.'  Well, 
possibly,  we  won't  feel  much  like 
gadding  about  the  country  at  their 
age;  eh,  old  girl!"  Mr,  Robson's  play- 
fulness was  intended  to  hide  disap- 
pointment and  anxiety. 

"  But,  what's  to  be  done  about  Christ- 
mas? I  declare,  I  feel  all  at  sea," 
fretted  Mrs.  Robson.  "I  thought,  of 
course,  we'd  be  going  down  there  for 
the  holidays,  so  I  promised  Katy  she 
might  go  home  to  her  mother's;  and 
I  can't  think  of  doing  all  the  work,  alone, 
with  these  tiresome  children." 

"You  talk  as  though  Christmas 
meant  hard  work."  Mr.  Robson's  tone 
expressed  dawning  intelligence. 

"Of  course,  it  does.  People  expect 
something  out  of  the  ordinary  on  such 
occasions,  and  I  can't  think  of  getting 
up  a  great  dinner  without  a  maid." 

"Yet  we've  let  mother  get  up  Christ- 
mas dinner  for  all  of  us, —  by  the  way, 
how  many  are  there  in  all  four  families  ? 
—  for  the  last  ten  years,  at  least. 
Looks  to  me  rather  one-sided,"  he 
reiterated  seriously. 

But  Mrs.  Warren  Robson,  his  pretty 
sister-in-law,  at  family  council  as- 
sembled, put  it  more  plainly  than  that. 
When  the  brothers  and  their  families 
had  been  made  acquainted  with  the  sad 
fact  that  their  Christmas  dinner  was  not 
to  be  cooked  for  them  at  the  old  home- 
stead, as  usual,  there  was  much  anxious 
questioning  and  regret. 

"I  don't  see  why  we  should  expect 
them  to  entertain  us  all,  every  year; 
after  all,  we're  rather  selfish  to  allow 
Mother  Robson  to  do  all  the  work  for 
such  a  family." 

"She  never  seemed  to  mind  the 
work,"  put  in  Mrs.  James. 

"She  never  let  us  know  she  did,  you 
mean.  And,  anyhow,  don't  you  re- 
member she  always  used  to  have  one 
of  the  neighbor's  girls  come  in  and  help 
her  for  a  week  before  Christmas?" 

"Well,  and  why  didn't  she  last  year, 
then?"  cut  in  Mrs.  James  again. 


"  Grandpa's  cows  both  died  this  fall," 
announced  ten-year-old  Madge,  irrele- 
vantly. 

The  eyes  of  the  four  brothers  met  in 
startled  questioning. 

"  Possibly  —  you  don't  suppose  they 
can't  afford  help,  nowadays?"  sug- 
gested Mrs.  John,  hesitantly. 

"And  grandma  was  so  lame  this 
year,  that  they  didn't  raise  a  single 
turkey,"  supplemented  Dan,  who  had 
spent  his  school  vacation  at  the  farm. 

"Come  to  think  of  it,  I  don't  beheve 
they  had  so  full  a  cellar  as  usual  the 
last  Christmas  we  were  there,"  said 
James. 

"And  possibly  they  were  obliged  to 
sacrifice  to  get  up  the  last  three  or  four 
holiday  dinners  for  this  selfish  crowd," 
lamented  another;  while  the  growing 
silence  of  the  men  confirmed  their  con- 
victions. 

"Let  me  solve  the  difficulty,"  sug- 
gested the  "youngest  member  of  the 
family,"  the  bride  of  a  month.  I  can't 
be  cheated  out  of  my  promised  dinner 
at  the  old  homestead,  so  let's  get  up  a 
co-operative  dinner  and  surprise  them 
with  it." 

"A  co-operative  Christmas  dinner!" 
was  the  incredulous  chorus. 

"And  why  not?"  flashed  little  Mrs. 
Harold,  bristling  in  defense  of  her  plan. 
"Let  each  family  (the  phrase  being 
accompanied  by  a  delicious  blush) 
take  with  them  the  materials  for  a 
complete  course  and  cook  it  in  the  old 
kitchen  stove  after  we  get  there.  Come, 
now  for  the  menu!  I'll  volunteer  the 
turkey." 

"And  all  the  fixin's,"  put  in  her 
beaming  husband,  proudly. 

"I'll  make  cooking-school  candy," 
offered  Miss  Madge.  "Oh,  this  Christ- 
mas is  going  to  be  the  best  of  all." 

"And  I'll  take  nuts  and  oranges," 
put  in  young  Dan,  eagerly. 

"I'll  provide  the  soup  and  fish,  with 
relishes.  Come,  Sarah,  what  is  your 
contribution  ? ' ' 

"  Oh,  if  you're  going  to  carry  out  this 


220 


THE    BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


crazy  plan,  I'll  provide  the  vegetables," 
said  Mrs.  James  with  laggard  dignity. 

"Put  me  down  for  the  pudding," 
called  out  Mrs.  Warren;  and  so  the 
menu    grew    to    startling   proportions. 

The  idea  had  attracted  by  its  very 
novelt}^  and  the  men  subsided  in 
admiring  assent,  while  the  women-folk 
discussed  details  with  the  never-failing 
interest  attendant  on  a  holiday  dinner. 

At  the  farm  home,  Christmas  day 
dawned  quietly  for  the  old  people.  Mr. 
Robson  hurried  half-heartedly  through 
his  chores  at  the  bam  —  all  too  few 
now  that  the  cows  were  dead  and  the 
family  of  fowls  so  small  —  and  has- 
tened to  the  house  to  start  the  fire  in 
the  old  wood  stove.  Awkwardly 
enough  he  moved  about  the  quaint 
kitchen,  in  a  well-meaning  effort  to 
assist  his  wife  with  the  breakfast,  out 
of  sympathy  for  her  lameness. 

"It  don't  seem  like  Christmas, 
hardly,"  quavered  the  old  lady,  as  she 
set  the  two  dishes  of  oatmeal  on  the 
tiny  table.  "We've  had  all  the  children 
here  every  year,  since  I  can  remember, 
an'  I  can't  sense  it  being  Christmas 
without  'em." 

"Now,  don't  you  fret,  M'lissie;  the 
children '11  be  all  right,  and  I  guess  we 
c'n  git  along  for  once.  Next  year, 
mebbe,  we  can  have  'em  ag'in,  if  the 
crops  do  well,"  comforted  the  old  man, 
his  own  eyes  wistful. 

After  the  breakfast  things  were 
cleared  away,  Mrs.  Robson  moved 
painfully  about  the  kitchen,  preparing 
for  their  own  frugal  holiday  dinner.  A 
small  chicken  was  dressed  and  set 
aside  while  she  peeled  the  last  golden 
pumpkin  for  a  pie.  Stopping  at  the 
wooden  sink  to  wash  her  hands,  she 
had  a  clear  view  of  the  country  road 
for  some  distance.  Something  huge  and 
swiftly  moving  flashed  into  sight  as 
she  looked.  Pulling  the  "near-sight" 
spectacles  farther  down  her  nose,  in 
order  to  see  over  them,  she  gazed  in 
fascinated  silence  while  the  object 
drew  up  at  the  gate. 


"Father,  father,"  she  quavered  ex- 
citedly. "They's  a  big  autymobeel  a 
stoppin'  at  the  gate!" 

Father  sprang  hastily  to  see  for  him- 
self. "Why,  I  do  believe, —  yes  sir-ee, 
—  it's  the  boys!" 

Hastily  the  weather-beaten  door  was 
thrown  open  in  wide  welcome  to  the 
happy  crowd  that  surged  up  the  gravel 
path,  and  overflowed  the  small  kitchen. 
Mother  clung  and  kissed  them  every 
one  in  joyful  welcome,  while  the  chil- 
dren danced  around  excitedly. 

"I'm  just  as  glad  as  can  be  to  see 
3^ou  all,"  mother  was  crying,  hysteri- 
cally. "Only  this  momin'  I  was  a 
sayin'" — just  at  that  moment  her 
eyes  fell  upon  the  thin  chicken  and  the 
single  pumpkin  pie  in  readiness  for  the 
oven,  and  her  face  changed.  "Good 
land  o'  livin';  whatever  am  I  a  goin' 
to  get  you  to  eat?"  she  broke  off,  all 
the  light  dying  out  of  the  faded  eyes. 

"But  we  are  going  to  entertain  you 
this  time,  for  a  change,  so  we've  brought 
the  dinner  with  us,"  laughed  Mrs. 
John.^ 

"Why,  why!"  quavered  mother; 
"I  don't  see " 

But  little  Mrs.  Harold  had  her  arm 
around  her  neck  and  was  whispering  in 
her  ear.  "Now,  you  see,  don't  you?" 
she  laughed,  as  presently  the  boxes 
and  baskets  began  to  come  in,  in  size 
and  number  sufficient  to  feed  twice 
the  number  present. 

"You  see  we  just  got  to  thinking  how 
selfish  we  were  to  allow  you  to  furnish 
and  cook  the  Christmas  dinner  for  this 

bunch    every    year "    began    son 

James. 

"So  we  thought  we'd  just  turn  the 
tables  on  you  and  get  up  the  dinner 
ourselves  for  a'  change,"  interrupted 
another. 

"But  it  wouldn't  taste  half  so  good 
anywhere  else,  so  we  brought  it  down 
here,"  supplemented  a  third. 

"Oh,  grandma,  isn't  there  any  more 
pumpkin  than  just  this  one  pie?" 
asked  young  Dan,  wistfully. 


LUCY 


221 


"Bless  his  heart,  yes,"  exclaimed 
grandma,  the  sun  coming  out  once 
more.  "How  glad  I  am  you  thought 
of  it,  — now,  I'll  make  up  a  full  batch 
of  'em.  I  would  'a'  felt  real  bad  if  I 
couldn't  have  furnished  anything 
toward  this  dinner." 

"You  furnish  us  your  company 
and  the  big  range  fire,  and  that's 
all  we  ask,"  announced  Mrs.  John, 
tying  an  apron  around  her  capable 
waist. 

So   Grandma  and  Grandpa   Robson 


played  at  guests  in  their  own  house, 
while  the  boys  split  wood  to  feed  the 
hungry  monster  of  a  range;  and  the 
daughters-in-law  bustled  about  pre- 
paring the  dinner. 

"This  is  the  very  bestest  Christmas 
we  ever  did  have,"  sighed  little  Grace 
contentedly,  after  the  last  goodie  had 
been  sampled;  and  all  together  agreed 
that  of  all  the  Christmas  dinners  they 
had  eaten  in  the  roomy  old  dining- 
room,  none  had  been  so  enjoyable  as 
this  co-operative  one. 


Before  a  Lady's  Portrait 

By  Clara  Seaman  Chase 


Dear  lady,  as  you  sit  with  thoughtful  eyes 
That  look  far  back  upon  heart-lighted  days, 
With  face  child-pure,  subdued  in  autumn  haze 
Like  that  about  Saint  Martin's  summer  skies, 
Upon  your  hair,  full  soft  the  sheer  cap  lies, — 
Your  velvet  gown,  with  touch  ot  lace,  betra3's 
Some  inner  grace  that  outward  form  obeys 
And  seeks  with  spirit-self  to  harmonize. 


I  wonder,  if  your  gentle  stoop  speaks  low 
That    joys   have   been   inwrought   with  toil 

and  tears? 
That    children's    needs    have    sought    your 

slender  hand? 
I  look  into  your  face  again,  and  know 
That  those  clear  eyes  have  met  and  chal- 
lenged fears; 
And  now,  you  wait, —  nor  ask  to  understand. 


Lucy 


By  Mrs.   Charles  Norman 


THEY  saw  us  coming.  First  the 
man,  then  the  woman  looked 
out.  Immediately  the  woman 
seized  a  broom,  which  stood  outside 
the  door,  and  began  sweeping.  By  the 
time  we  got  there  the  "dirt"  was  all 
out  of  the  house,  but  the  cloud  of  dust 
was  so  thick  that  we  could  hardly  see 
the  babe  who  lay  in  the  crib,  with  his 
mouth  open,  breathing  in  as  much  as 
possible. 

One  room  served  for  kitchen,  dining- 
room  and  reception  room.    It  was  well 


past  the  dinner  hour,  but  the  table  was 
uncleared.  It  was  spread  with  a  yellow 
oilcloth,  which  was  thoroughly  littered 
with  egg-shell,  potato  peelings  and 
scraps  of  com  bread. 

After  the  usual  introductory  cere- 
monies, we  announced  that  we  had 
come  to  see  the  goats,  having  seen  the 
sign  upon  the  roadside,  that  they  had 
goats  for  sale. 

"Yes,  yes,"  said  the  father,  and  then 
without  a  moment's  hesitation,  "Bring 
them  in,  Lucy." 


222 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


But  it  seemed  a  better  procedure  to 
us  for  Mohammed  to  go  to  the  moun- 
tain, rather  than  the  mountain  to 
Mohammed,  so  we  insisted  that  we 
should  go  out  and,  to  forestall  objec- 
tions, we  at  once  rose  and  went  to  the 
door.  The  mother  and  father  joined 
us,  and  Lucy,  who  had  started  out  in 
obedience  to  her  father,  promptly 
returned. 

"Won't  you  come,  too?"  said  I,  for 
I  had  already  seen  enough  of  the  child 
to  be  greatly  attracted  to  her.  She 
was  a  shy  little  creature,  but  she  lifted 
to  me  the  most  beautiful  eyes  I  had 
ever  seen,  and  answered  in  a  voice  as 
sweet  as  her  eyes  were  beautiful: 

"Oh  no!  I  must  not!  Baby  might 
need  me." 

At  this,  the  mother  explained  that 
the  infant  was  "pore  and  sickly,"  and 
that  he  would  cry  for  Lucy  if  she  went 
away,  and  that  no  one  else  could  com- 
fort him. 

The  outside  of  the  house  was  far 
more  agreeable  to  my  taste  than  the 
inside.  Moreover,  the  bam  looked  very 
promising,  compared  with  the  residence, 
and  I  had  a  hope  of  seeing  all  the 
animals  on  the  farm,  to  say  nothing  of 
passing  judgment  upon  a  goat.  It 
seem^ed  too  bad,  however,  for  Lucy 
not  to  be  able  to  join  us,  and  my  mind 
kept  reverting  to  her  and  the  "pore 
and  sickly"  baby,  so  I  presently  sug- 
gested that  the  men  were  able  to 
manage  the  business  affair  and  that 
the  mother  and  I  should  return. 

To  this  the  woman  gave  assent,  and 
we  went  in.  The  baby  was  asleep,  and 
Lucy,  still  singing,  was  quietly  clear- 
ing the  dinner  table.  To  this  labor  the 
mother  at  once  brought  vigorous  assist- 
ance, and  I  sat  down  to  wonder  at  the 
contrast  of  the  child's  gentle  demeanor 
and  her  uncouth  surroundings.  She 
was  such  a  deliciously  fair  and  bright 
and  mannerly  child ! 

Her  mother  washed  the  ironstone 
dishes  with  a  tremendous  noise,  then 
mopped  off  of  the  table  the  remnants  of 


the  meal  and  tossed  them  out  the  door, 
for  whomsoever  they  might  concern. 
Immediately,  a  flock  of  chickens,  dogs 
and  cats  appeared,  and  as  the  dogs  at 
once  began  to  make  life  miserable  for 
the  cats,  the  good-natured  woman 
rescued  a  portion  of  the  food  and 
brought  it  to  the  kitchen  floor,  where 
Lucy  and  I  formed  a  barricade,  and 
the  cats  ate  in  peace. 

The  goat  business  being  eventually 
settled,  we  took  our  departure,  and 
my  companion  was  apparently  at  ease 
in  his  mind  with  visions  of  small  boys 
and  Angoras..  His  enthusiasm  I  shared 
to  the  fullest  extent  and  he  presently 
shared  mine,  when  I  told  him  of  little 
Lucy,  beautiful  and  mild  as  Words- 
worth's Lucy,  who,  like  her: 

"  Dwelt  among  the  untrodden  ways." 

We  could  not  carry  Lucy  away,  nor 
did  we  wish  to  do  so,  but  it  became 
necessary  every  year  to  go  back  to 
take  a  word  of  praise  and  love  to  the 
dear  child.  She  did  not  grow  less 
gentle  or  less  beautiful,  but  more 
gentle  and  more  beautiful,  and  the 
mystery  about  her  increased.  She  was 
"the  child  of  her  parents"  so  'twas 
said,  but  it  did  not  seem  so.  We 
thought  there  must  have  been  a  strain 
of  gentility  in  her  remoter  ancestors, — 
a  beauty  not  lost,  but  preserved  for 
this  fair  girl,  as  a  thread  of  gold, 
disappearing  amid  the  baser  metals 
of  the  mine,  peeps  out  purer  than 
ever  in  the  rudest,  most  unexpected 
place. 

Since  we  first  saw  her,  seven  years 
have  passed.  Her  father  has  built  a 
new  house  for  her  sake ;  her  mother  has 
substituted  a  white  table  cover  for  the 
oilcloth.  The  baby  has  grown  into  a 
lusty  boy,  with  gentlemanly  manners. 
Lucy  governs  him  with  all  tact.  There 
are  ferns  and  daffodils  and  violets  and 
lilies-of-the-valley  in  the  dooryard 
that  was  once  so  barren.  Roses  and 
honeysuckle  and  Sweet  William  have 
a  place  in  the  garden.     Every  Sunday, 


HOUSEWORK 


223 


through  the  summer,  Lucy's  flowers 
bedeck  the  altar  of  the  country  church, 
and  Lucy  plays  the  organ  for  the  ser- 
vice. She  has  gone  through  all  the 
grades  of  the  district  school,  and  has 
gone  to  the  city  to  high  school,  but 


she  does  not  ape  the  customs  and  the 
hairdressing  of  city  girls.  She  is  still 
loyal  to  home  and  kindred  and  neigh- 
bors, and,  though  she  does  not  dream 
of  such  a  thing,  she  is  a  heaven-sent 
missionary  in  a  needy  field. 


H 


o  u  s  e  WO  r 


By  Kate  Gannett  Wells 


THE  striking  peculiarity  of  house- 
work is  its  varied  capacity  always 
to  give  something  to  do,  and  its 
blessedness  lies  in  that  something 
generally  being  for  others.  Yet  if  ap- 
parently only  for  one's  self,  it  is  not  so 
really,  for  more  and  more  fully  is  under- 
stood the  obligation  of  each  individual 
to  increase  the  prosperity  of  the  world 
by  preserving  intact  her  own  health. 

That  it  is  hard  always  to  be  up  and 
doing,  to  rise  early  and  go  to  bed  late, 
is  as  true  as  that,  taking  all  things  into 
consideration,  housework  has  the  ad- 
vantage over  other  occupations  of  not 
being  beset  with  many  of  what  are  now 
called  "occupational  diseases."  The 
carpet-sweeper  prevents  the  house  dust 
from  reaching  the  lungs,  and  a  slight 
amount  of  common  sense  in  opening 
windows  carries  off  the  odors  of  cookery 
even  in  cramped  tenements.  But  as 
legislation  becomes  increasingly  pater- 
iial,  it  may  find  some  unhealthy  pe- 
culiarities even  in  housework.  Or  if 
it  should  not,  philanthropy  may,  since 
altruism  as  well  as  the  economic  con- 
science is  always  on  the  hunt  for  bet- 
terments. 

Yet  already  the  trend  of  laws  in  a 
few  States  and  in  many  occupations  is 
towards  the  lessening  of  risks  through 
illness,  either  by  prohibitive  statute  or 
by  voluntary  act  on  the  part  of  em- 
ployers. Our  mortality  statistics,  how- 
ever, often  fail  to  reveal  the  particular 


occupation  of  workers  and  seldom  note 
the  subdivisions  of  labor  risks  upon 
which  must  depend  the  action  of  in- 
dividual manufacturers  or  of  legislative 
enactment. 

The  prohibition  against  the  use  of 
phosphorus  in  the  rnanufacture  of 
matches,  that  the  "phossy  jaw"  may 
be  stamped  out  as  a  disease,  is  proof  of 
personal  care  for  others  and  of  economic 
legislation  abroad  where,  after  seventy 
years,  attempts  at  regulation  have 
given  place  to  compulsory  prohibition 
against  ihe  manufacture  or  importation 
of  such  matches,  nine  countries  having 
signed  a  treaty  to  that  effect.  Btit  in 
our  own  country  it  was  only  this  June 
that  a  bill  was  introduced  into  Congress 
to  secure  national  prohibition  of  the 
use  of  phosphorus  on  matches. 

It  is  not  merely  an  industry  as  a 
whole  that  should  be  studied,  but  spe- 
cific parts  of  that  industry,  in  order  to 
determine  the  rate  of  disease.  For  in- 
stance, the  illness  or  death  rate  among 
textile  workers  as  a  whole  fails  in  im- 
portance unless  it  be  compared  with 
such  rate  in  relation  to  the  fiber  used. 
General  statistics  are  more  or  less 
meaningless.  The  age  of  the  workers 
at  which  disease  is  contracted  is  also 
of  importance  in  the  tabulation  of  sta- 
tistics, for  death  rates  alone  are  not 
determinative. 

Now,  because  the  public  conscience 
is  at  last  aroused  as  to  the  economic 


224 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


value  of  health,  should  authorities  be 
on  their  guard  against  specific  injustices, 
in  the  regulation  of  industries,  and  yet 
never  lose  sight  of  the  fact  that  pre- 
vention of  disease  is  cheaper  than  sup- 
port of  the  sick.  Statisticians  claim 
sickness  insurance,  with  its  reckoning 
as  to  duration  of  diseases  per  day,  per 
person,  as  a  universal  remedy  for  in- 
dustrial illness.  In  Germany,  the  days 
of  sickness  per  annum  per  person  in- 
cluded within  the  scope  of  the  compul- 
sory sickness  funds  is  8.5.  Supposing 
the  rate  to  be  the  same  with  us,  we 
might  reckon  on  about  "284,750,000 
sick  days  among  the  wage  earners, 
fifteen  years  of  age  and  over,  of 
33,500,000."  But  when  labor  is  con- 
stantly shifting  its  abode  and  capital 
employs  many  nationalities  with  vary- 
ing degrees  of  racial  tendency  to  illness, 
statistics  become  valuable  in  propor- 
tion to  their  specific  analysis  of  con- 
ditions. Among  the  trades  in  which 
employers  have  most  protected  their 
laborers,  that  of  the  lead  workers  is 
happily  notable,  especially  in  England, 
where  during  one  year  in  the  white 
lead  industry,  ''the  incidence -of  lead 
poisoning  was  only  five  per  cent  among 
those  regularly  employed  and  eight 
per  cent  among  the  casual  workers," 
who  never  are  as  cautious  in  the  hand- 
ling of  their  work  as  are  the  steady 
workers. 

The  Illinois  Commission  on  occupa- 
tional diseases  proposes  to  investigate 
the  "caisson"  illness,  in  tunnel  work; 
a  pecuHar  form  of  drowsiness  among 
miners;  injuries  to  eyes  and  ears,  in 
certain  steel  industries ;  lead  poisoning ; 
gas  poisoning,  from  some  kinds  of  metal 
work,  as  well  as  general  investigations 
concerning  the  physical  and  mental 
effect  of  overwork.  Still  it  is  some- 
what unlikely  that  the  result  of  such 
researches  would  be  embodied  in  be- 


neficent legislation  in  one  State,  if  its 
manufacturers  would  thereby  have  to 
contend  unsuccessfully  with  compe- 
tition in  other  States.  Thus  is  it  that 
national  legislation  is  sought  as  the 
final  resort  against  industrial  diseases. 
Single  manufacturers,  here  and  there, 
bred  in  an  altruistic  spirit,  may  consent 
to  remedial  private  regulations,  and 
trade  unions  may  listen  to  medical 
and  hygienic  advice,  while  the  bulk  of 
laborers  sicken  and  die.  Yet  there  is 
hope  that  their  descendants  may  live 
in  health,  as  its  economic  value  is  at 
last  recognized  as  a  State  asset,  and  as 
it  no  longer  is  taken  for  granted  that 
trades,  to  be  successful,  must  be  con- 
ditioned on  the  ill  health  of  the  workers. 
Meanwhile  and  always  can  house- 
work be  kept  almost  exempt  from  any 
"occupational  disease,"  by  each  worker 
realizing  that  on  her  common  sense, 
adaptiveness  and  cheerfulness  will  de- 
pend her  skill  and  ease  in  doing  her 
work.  Housework  loses  its  terrors, 
when  it  is  regarded  as  done  for  the  wel- 
fare of  others,  and  it  is  truly  as  national 
in  its  far-reaching  possibilities  as  are 
sanitariums  and  hospitals,  and  far  more 
preventive.  The  increasing  demand 
for  the  graduates  of  cooking  and  do- 
mestic science  classes  as  instructors, 
supervisors  and  matrons ;  the  high  sala- 
ries they  obtain  and,  what  is  quite  as 
noticeable,  the  frequency  and  persis- 
tency with  which  they  are  asked  in 
marriage,  proves  the  estimation  in 
which  they  are  held.  Not  all  workers 
have  trained  intelligence,  but  all  can 
have  fidelity,  in  being  more  or  less 
thorough.  Even  the  paring  of  pota- 
toes is  a  lesson  in  how  to  save  that  one 
may  have  more  for  something  else. 
The  older  we  grow,  the  more  lonely  we 
are,  the  greater  is  the  comfort  in  hav- 
ing housework  to  plan  for,  even  if  we 
cannot  do  its  more  active  tasks. 


cu^^^Pt^^::?^'^^::.:^ 


Because  She  Loved  Adventure 

By  Eliza  Stowe  Twitchell 


WHATEVER  Mrs.  Butler  said 
carried  weight,  especially  with 
her  friend  Mrs.  Rangely, — 
the  little,  blond,  pale-eyed  woman  who 
lived  across  the  street,  and  who  had 
found  Mrs.  Butler  such  interesting 
company  ever  since  she  had  known 
her,  that  now  her  forenoons  were 
usually  spent  in  Mrs.  Butler's  newly 
furnished  parlor,  where,  reclining  upon 
easy-chairs,  they  studied  human  na- 
ture, discussed  their  friends,  admired 
each  other's  tastes,  and  thus  sought 
daily  to  increase  their  store  of  useful 
information. 

"It's  a  part  of  my  creed  to  believe 
in  the  American  woman.  "  Mrs.  Butler 
realized,  when  she  said  this,  that  she 
was  committing  herself  to  an  intellec- 
tual proposition  that  might  require  all 
her  cleverness  to  defend,  should  Mrs. 
Rangely  see  fit  to  differ  with  her.  But 
she  made  it  courageously,  in  the  faith 
and  hope  that  her  friend  knew  as  little 
as  herself  about  the  characteristics  of 
women  that  are  distinctively  American. 
Beholding  a  look  of  charmed  simplicity 
upon  the  face  of  her  friend,  she  followed 
up  her  statement  by  declaring: 

"The  American  women  are  the 
cleverest,  the  most  self-reliant,  have 
the  most  tact  of  any  women  in  the 
whole  wide  world.  Put  them  anywhere 
and'  they  are  at  home ;  load  them  with 
hardships  and  they'll  rise  above  them; 
place  about  them  difficult  and  untried 
circumstances,  and  they'll  soon  create 
new  conditions  and  end  by  proving  the 
inherent  queenliness  of  their  natures, 
by  first  ruling  themselves,  and  then  by 
dictating  terms  to  Fortune.  " 

"But,  my  dear,"  timidly  ventured 
Mrs.  Rangely,  "you  know  there  are 
women  and  women.  Which  class  do 
you  take  for  your  type,  club  women, 
college  women,  business  women,  work- 


ing women,  or  those  women  who  have 
weakly  submerged  their  own  individu- 
ality in  that  of  their  husbands?  You 
know  the  type,  —  one  who  is  known 
only  as  'the  wife  of  Mr.  So-and-so,'  — 
a  large  class,  each  one  content  to  act 
and  think  as  seemeth  best  in  his  sight, 
who  is  her  lord  and  husband. " 

"There  are  no  classes  in  this  country, 
therefore  there  can  be  but  one,  broad, 
general  type;  all  the  rest  are  'sports,'  as 
they  say,  of  genius.  I  believe  that  the 
American  woman  exists  because  she 
is  needed.  Her  purpose  in  the  progress 
of  the  world  is  becoming  more  and 
more  manifest.  She  loves  adventure, 
though  she  would  never  seek  it;  but 
should  it  come  her  way  — !  " 

Mrs.  Butler  finished  her  sentence  by 
a  graceful  gesture,  lifting  her  white 
hands  eloquently.  Her  friend  grasped 
the  meaning  which  Mrs.  Butler  was  too 
modest  to  express  in  words: 

"Behold  in  me  a  fair  representative 
of  the  best  type;  one  who  understands 
herself  and  her  class  perfectly." 

To  one  more  skilled  than  Mrs. 
Rangely  in  reading  character,  it  might 
have  meant  —  that  gesture,  those  two 
white  hands  and  the  air  of  wide  morn- 
ing leisure  —  that  the  type  of  American 
women  which  these  two  represented 
was  rather  that  of  those  who  so  order 
their  lives  that  they  will  be  ministered 
unto,  while  appearing  to  minister  unto 
others,  by  virtue  of  their  pretty  ways 
and  looks,  their  delicate  and  stylish 
raiment,  and  their  ever-ready  supply 
of  good  intentions. 

"There's  my  telephone,  pray  excuse. 
It's  Jack,  of  course.  He  calls  me  often, 
for  fear  I'll  be  lonely.  You  know  I've 
never  been  alone  much,  being  the 
youngest  of  three  sisters,  and  mamma 
was  always  —  There's  the  bell  again. 
Jack's  such  an  impatient  fellow  over 


225 


226 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


the  very  least  delay.  He  thinks  a 
woman  should  —  There's  the  bell 
again. 

"Yes?  Why,  how  perfectly  lovely! 
No,  this  is  Thursday.  You  always 
forget  (although  we've  already  been 
married  six  months,  —  it  will  be  six 
months  tomorrow)  that  Katy  is  never, 
never  at  home  on  Thursday  afternoons ; 
but  it  will  make  not  the  least  difference 
in  the  world,  I'm  equal  to  an  emergency 
like  that  any  day.  I'll  have  a  dinner 
you'll  be  proud  of,  sharp  at  five.  No, 
by  all  means  bring  him  here;  the  hotel 
is  too  public  a  place  in  which  to  enter- 
tain such  a  —  well  —  as  I  was  saying 
when  you  broke  in,  home's  the  proper 
place.  —  Oh,  Jack,  how  can  you  say 
so!  Why,  you  little  know  the  extent 
of  my  resources.  I  was  just  saying  to 
Mrs.  Rangely,  —  she's  here,  you  know, 
came  over  early,  in  order  to  make  the 
long  day  seem  shorter  for  both  of  us, 
and  we've  had  luncheon  together  and 
been  talking  about  —  Yes,  I  know 
you  are  always  busy,  but  I  only  wanted 
to  ask  you,  if  you  don't  think  the 
American  woman  is  the  very  highest 
type  of  —  There,  the  line's  off. 
Jack  often  does  that,  just  when  I've 
something  worth  while.  It's  hardly 
showing  his  wife  the  proper  respect; 
but  he  always  makes  it  up  afterwards 
by  his  manner.  There's  no  man  like 
Jack  when  it  comes  to  manners." 

She  hung  up  the  receiver  and  went 
back  to  the  parlor  humming,  "There's 
none  so  sweet  as  Charlie." 

"  What  do  you  think !  Jack's  cousin, 
his  very  best  and  most  beloved  cousin, 
just  his  age  and  unmarried,  a  man  who's 
been  everywhere  and  knows  the  whole 
world,  and  can  describe  it  so  cleverly 
and  so  clearly  you  can  see  it  all  before 
your  very  face  and  eyes,  for  he's  lived 
in  New  York,  London,  Paris,  Heidel- 
berg and  Constantinople,  and  he's 
coming  home  with  Jack  to  this  very 
house,  with  Jack,  at  five  o'clock  to 
dinner  and  to  spend  the  evening. 
He's  the  foreign   buyer   for  the    firm, 


and  Jack  dotes  on  him,  and  wants  him 
to  see  me  —  the  foolish  boy.  Jack 
says  he's  the  best  salesman,  the  very 
best  story-teller,  and  by  all  odds  away 
and  beyond  any  other  fellow  in  Chris- 
tendom, when  it  comes  to  comradeship, 
and  taking  you,  with  all  your  short- 
comings, into  his  big-hearted  regard, 
and  holding  you  there.  Jack  says  I 
must  get  up  a  dinner  'regardless.* 
That's  Jack,  he's  a  slangy  fellow,  but 
such  a  dear." 

"But,  Mrs.  Butler,  you  cannot  cook 
a  dinner  alone,  between  now  and  five 
o'clock;  besides,  if  you'll  pardon  me, 
you've  never  learned  to  cook.  You 
once  told  me  so." 

"There  it  is  again.  I'll  forgive  you 
for  reminding  me  of  my  lost  oppor- 
tunities, but  was  I  not  just  now  saying, 
the  American  woman  is  equal  to  any 
emergency,  and  that  she  loves  ad- 
venture? This  will  be  as  exciting  as 
the  stock  exchange.  That  was  why 
I  would  not  consent  to  let  Jack  take 
Cousin  Rob  to  the  hotel.  Haven't 
I  cookbooks,  and  didn't  I  attend  a 
cooking  school  once,  and  didn't  I  see 
just  how  easy  it  all  was  to  make  every- 
thing turn  out  quite  too  lovely  and 
nice  for  anything,  when  you  measured 
accurately  and  kept  your  whole  mind 
upon  it?" 

Mrs.  Rangely  rose  to  go,  yet  lingered 
some  twenty  minutesj^atj^^the  door 
leave-taking. 

She  was  gone,  at  last,  and  Mrs. 
Butler  hastened  to  her  desk  to  write 
out  her  menu,  saying,  "There's nothing 
like  having  an  exact  list  of  what  you 
want,  and  how  much  of  it."  Among 
other  things  on  her  list  there  was 
"turkey,"  "salad,"  "green  peas," 
"ice  cream"  and  the  usuals. 

In  ordering  over  the  telephone  she 
was  obliged  to  take  a  ten-pound  turkey, 
because  the  grocer  had  none  smaller 
that  would  "answer."  She  ordered  a 
peck  of  peas,  feeling  quite  sure  that  out 
of  a  peck  she  would  be  able  to  obtain 
a  sufficient  quantity  for  three  persons. 


BECAUSE  SHE  LOVED  ADVENTURE 


227 


While  waiting  for  her  provisions  to 
arrive  she  set  the  table.  Then  she 
pinned  the  skirt  of  her  fleecy  dress 
about  her  waist,  donned  a  high,  full 
apron,  pressed  back  her  sleeves,  say- 
ing, "Here's  excitement.  I  had  no  idea 
there  was  so  much  real  enjoyment  in 
just  plain  housework.  If  it  were  not 
for  the  fun  of  surprising  Jack,  I'd 
have  ordered  the  cake  of  the  baker; 
but  I  may  as  well  cook  the  whole  dinner 
while  I'm  about  it. " 

Soon  the  things  began  to  arrive,  and 
she  became  as  eager  as  a  general  for 
battle  or  a  financier  for  a  chance  to 
bull  the  market.  She  first  unrolled  the 
paper  from  the  turkey;  but  no  sooner 
had  she  lifted  it  in  her  hands  than  she 
gave  a  shudder,  her  hands  flew  sud- 
denly apart  and  the  turkey  dropped 
on  one  edge  of  the  table,  from  whence 
it  rolled  off  heavily,  striking  the  floor 
with  a  thud. 

She  sprang  back  with  a  suppressed 
scream,  then  gathering  her  skirts  tightly 
about  her  she  bent  over  it  and  gazed 
long  and  searchingly.  As  it  did  not 
move,  she  ventured,  at  last,  to  touch  it 
again,  but  this  time  with  only  the  tip 
of  one  of  her  white,  delicate  fingers. 
"Ugh!"  said  she  with  rising  indigna- 
tion. "What  did  that  man  send  me 
such  a  great,  heavy,  cold,  dead,  repul- 
sive corpse  for!  and  oh,  my  goodness 
to  gracious!  if  there  isn't  blood,  actually 
blood,  down  there  in  its  insides." 

At  this  appalling  discovery  she 
hastily  covered  it  with  the  paper  it  had 
been  wrapped  in.  Then  she  straight- 
ened herself  up  to  her  full  height,  took 
a  deep,  quick  breath,  placed  both  hands 
on  her  hips,  and  stood  wondering  what 
a  great  general  or  a  financier  would  do, 
if  either  were  placed  in  such  a  plight  as 
she.  Then  taking  a  thick,  woolen 
holder  in  each  hand,  she  Hfted  the  heavy 
bird  cautiously,  carried  it  to  the  ice 
chest  and  shut  it  in,  saying,  "I'll  let 
Katy  tend  to  that." 

After  washing  her  hands  and  drying 
them,  she  felt  the  need  of  some  en- 


couragement. At  first  she  thought 
she  would  telephone  Jack  all  about  it, 
then  remembering  the  American  wo- 
man, she  concluded,  instead,  to  go  up 
to  her  own  room,  thinking  it  would  be 
a  relief  to  leave  the  kitchen  for  a  short 
time.  When  there,  from  force  of  habit, 
she  went  directly  to  the  mirror  and 
looked  in.  The  glass  was  a  large  one 
and  the  reflection  companionable  and 
reassuring.  There  a  pair  of  bright 
black  eyes  met  her  gaze  sympathet- 
ically. The  young,  pleasing  face  set 
in  a  circlet  of  dark,  fluffy  hair  looked 
interesting.  She  gazed  awhile,  then 
burst  out  laughing.  Throwing  a  kiss 
at  the  image,  she  said,  "We're  the 
American  woman,  you  know." 

Her  poise  thus  regained,  she  flew 
downstairs ,  rushed  to  the  telephone 
and  ordered  a  roast,  explaining  to  the 
American  woman: 

"All  you  have  to  do  to  a  roast  is  to 
put  it  in  the  oven.  When  the  man 
brings  it,  you  can  inquire  what  shape 
it's  in,  and  if  he's  sure  it  isn't  a  steak. 
In  this  way  you  can  make  him  undo 
the  paper,  and  then  you  can  say  in  a 
nice,  coaxing  way,  'Would  you  be  so 
kind  as  to  place  it  upon  that  tin  for 
me?'  and  when  he's  gone,  you  can  place 
it  in  the  oven.  You  could  do  it  all, 
if  you  had  to,  for  it  isn't  at  all  likely 
that  a  piece  of  dead  cow  can  look  so 
like  a  corpse  as  does  a  turkey  when 
outside  the  market. 

Feeling  sure  that  she  was  now  on  the 
road  to  success,  she  concluded  to  im- 
prove the  time,  while  waiting  for  the 
roast,  to  make  the  cake. 

It  took  much  longer  than  she  was 
aware  to  decide  whether  it  should  be 
a  sponge,  angel,  layer,  white,  dark,  a 
ten-egg  or  a  one-egg  cake.  There 
seemed  to  be  too  many  recipes  in  the 
book.  Then  the  work  of  collecting  all 
the  materials,  the  measuring,  the  beat- 
ing, the  long  and  frequent  consulta- 
tions over  the  cookbook,  all  required 
much  patient  endurance.  Having 
never  acquired  the   habit  of  concen- 


228 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


trating  her  attention  for  any  length  of 
time  upon  any  one  subject  or  duty,  she 
began  to  grow  very  weary.  The  hot, 
close  atmosphere  of  the  kitchen  irri- 
tated her  nerves,  her  tight-fitting 
collar  oppressed  her,  her  dress  was 
uncomfortable,  and  her  shoes  pinched. 
Her  burning  cheeks  and  the  slight 
stoop  in  her  shoulders  revealed  how 
rapidly  she  was  losing  nervous  energy 
under  the  anxiety  to  do  well  the  task 
she  had  so  courageously  and  hopefully 
undertaken. 

At  last  the  cake  was  in  the  oven, 
and  though  her  courage  was  flagging, 
it  was  still  high  enough  to  hold  her  to 
her  task,  but  it  no  longer  wore  the  halo 
of  an  adventure. 

This  seemed  a  good  time  to  rest  and 
shell  the  peas;  but  when  some  of  the 
pods  would  not  open  without  the  use  of 
a  knife,  and  when  she  had  cut  her 
finger  twice,  and  had  to  tie  it  up  all 
alone,  she  concluded  to  shell  the  rest 
without  a  knife,  even  if  it  took  longer. 

After  a  time  she  became  conscious 
that  the  chair  she  was  sitting  in  was 
a  most  uncomfortable  one.  Then  the 
monotony  of  her  task  was  relieved  by 
the  arrival  of  the  roast,  and  her  diplo- 
macy proving  successful,  she  opened 
the  oven  door  to  place  it  in,  when  she 
smelled  something  burning.  Instantly 
she  remembered  her  cake,  and  there 
it  surely  was,  just  where  she  had 
placed  it  an  hour  ago. 

Fortunately  the  oven  was  a  "slow" 
one,  so  only  one-half  was  burned,  the 
rest  was  a  success ;  but  in  her  vexation 
and  disappointment,  in  getting  the 
cake  out  of  the  oven  she  burned  the 
back  of  one  hand  against  the  top  grate. 
After  placing  the  roast  in  the  oven 
she  returned  to  her  work  of  shelling 
the  peas.  In  this  way  another  half 
hour  rolled  away;  the  pea-pods  rose 
rapidly,  higher  and  higher,  while  the 
shelled  peas  but  Httle  more  than  half 
filled  the  pan. 

Her  anxiety  of  mind  and  her  deter- 
mination to  hold  her  attention  firmly 


upon  the  work  in  hand  had  prevented 
her  from  noticing  the  flight  of  time; 
but*  suddenly  she  remembered,  and 
glancing  at  the  clock  she  was  over- 
whelmed with  astonishment  to  dis- 
cover that  it  was  five  minutes  of  five. 
Already  Jack  and  Rob  must  be  coming 
up  the  street. 

She  sprang  from  her  chair,  and  in 
doing  so  overturned  the  pan  of  peas, 
and  they  spread  themselves  widely  over 
the  floor,  according  to  the  law  of  gravi- 
tation. With  both  hands  she  seized  the 
fluffy  coil  of  hair  on  each  side  of  her 
head,  gave  a  fierce  pull,  uttering  a 
deep  groan. 

This  action  and  groan  seemed  to 
relieve  the  situation  immensely.  She 
knew  at  once  exactly  what  to  do.  She 
rushed  to  her  desk  in  the  library  and 
hastily  wrote  on  a  slip  of  paper: 

"  Mamma  taken  suddenly  ill.  Had  to 
go.    Take  Rob  to  hotel,  awfully  sorry . " 

She  pinned  this  note,  near  the  glass, 
on  the  hat-rack  in  the  hall,  and  rushed 
upstairs  just  in  time  to  hear  Jack 
placing  his  key  in  the  front  door-lock. 

Where  should  she  go?  She  dare  not 
remain  in  her  own  room,  for  if  Jack 
should  miss  finding  her  note,  he  would 
surely  come  in  search  for  her,  so  she 
slipped  noiselessly  into  the  maid's 
room,  and  cautiously  locked  the  door. 

Jack  felt  some  disappointment  that 
she  did  not  appear  at  once,  and  give 
a  cordial  welcome  to  their  guest;  but 
soon  his  eye  caught  sight  of  the  note, 
and  he  read  it  aloud,  then  began  rub- 
bing his  mouth  and  face  with  the  palm 
of  his  hand,  to  hide  an  involuntary 
smile. 

"You  appear  to  find  sudden  sickness 
amusing?"  Rob  suggested,  inquiringly, 
"Is  it  another  case  of  'too  much 
mother-in-law,'  and  does  a  ray  of  hope 
spring  eternally  up  in  your  manly 
breast  at  the  thought  of  sudden  death  ? " 

"I  was  thinking  how  fortunate  it  is 
that  there  is  a  good  hotel  so  near. 
Come,  we'll  have  to  retrace  our  steps, 
for  there  is  evidently  no  dinner  here." 


BECAUSE  SHE  LOVED  ADVENTURE 


229 


As  he  said  this  he  took  the  hats  from 
the  rack,  placed  his  own  upon  his  head 
and  handed  the  other  to  Rob. 

Rob  took  the  hat  and  replaced  it 
upon  the  rack,  saying: 

"One  can  obtain  a  good  dinner  al- 
most any  hour  of  the  day  or  night  at  a 
hotel;  but  I  haven't  seen  you,  Jack, 
in  over  five  years.  There  must  be 
something  in  the  larder,  if  not  then 
just  give  me  a  free  hand  in  the  kitchen 
and  we'll  have  an  old-time  feast.  Wh}^ 
I'd  rather  have  a  bottle  of  beer  and 
some  bread  and  cheese  comrading  with 
3^ou  than  the  best  hotel  ^dinner  I  ever 
ate.  Come,  I'm  sorry  Bertha  is  away; 
but  after  all,  3'ou  know,  two's  com- 
pany. ' ' 

"You're  the  same  Rob.  Time  can- 
not wither  your  heart,  nor  travel  stale 
your  infinite  variety.  Nothing  could 
suit  me  better,  for  we've  got  the  whole 
night  before  us."  And  he  led  the  way 
to  the  kitchen. 

As  they  passed  through  the  dining- 
room  the  sight  of  the  orderly,  well-set 
table,  with  its  snowy  white  linen,  its 
shining  silver,  sparkUng  glass  and  fra- 
grant flowers,  revealed  the  good  inten- 
tion and  the  refined  taste  of  the  absent 
mistress;  but  on  opening  the  kitchen 
door  the  overturned  peas,  the  burned 
cake,  and  the  general  disorder  revealed 
a  hasty  departure. 

"Bertha  must  have  left  suddenly," 
explained  Jack  by  way  of  apology. 
"The  news  of  her  mother's  illness  was 
no  doubt  distressing."  As  he  said 
this  he  began  sweeping  up  the  peas. 
Meanwhile  Rob  looked  about  the  room, 
peeked  into  the  ice  chest,  then  into 
the  oven. 

"Does  it  occur  to  you.  Jack,  that 
your  mother's  illness  may  have  come 
opportune?" 

"Not  a  bit  of  it,"  replied  Jack.  "I 
assure  3'ou  she's  quite  subject  to  sudden 
turns.  Bertha's  too  good  a  cook  to 
leave  in  this  way  without  the  very  best 
of  reasons.  The  dear  girl  will  be  woe- 
fully disappointed  in  not  meeting  you." 


"Then  I'm  ready  to  take  my  oath 
that  you  are  right  and  I,  therefore, 
refuse  to  believe  in  circumstantial  evi- 
dence." 

While  Rob  was  making  coft'ee  and 
preparing  a  Welsh  rabbit  and  Jack  was 
making  a  salad,  Bertha  stole  softly  into 
the  hall  and  leaning  far  over  the  banis- 
ter caught  the  odor  of  delicious  coft'ee 
and  the  smell  of  roast  meat. 

"How  good  it  smells!  It  makes 
me  as  hungry  as  a  bear,  and  they  are 
actually  going  to  eat  my  dinner,  the 
one  I've  cooked.  Oh!  if  I  was  only 
down  there  with  them.  It's  just 
awful  to  tell  lies." 

After  a  time  she  heard  them  bringing 
the  prepared  food  to  the  dining-room 
table,  and  when  there  was  stillness, 
except  for  the  low  murmur  of  their 
voices,  she  began  to  realize  that  she 
might  be  a  supperless  prisoner  till  far 
into  the  night. 

"How  can  they  find  so  much  pleasure 
in  mere  food,  with  me  away?  Jack  has 
no  right  to  be  happy  when  I'm  so 
anxious  about  mother;  and  they'll  eat 
up  all  my  nice  cake.  Oh!  I  must  —  I 
just  must  find  some  way  of  joining 
them  or  I  shall  die  of  vexation,  morti- 
fication and  starvation,  all  in  one.  I 
must  eat  with  them  and  hear  Rob  talk, 
and  see  Jack  enjoy  it  all;  if  I  don't  I 
shall  miss  something  that  can  never, 
never  be  made  up  to  me  during  my 
whole  long  life.  Oh!  what  shall  I  do? 
They  are  actually  feasting  without  me, 
feasting  upon  nothing  as  it  were,  and 
I'm  shut  up  in  the  maid's  room  as  if 
I'd  done  something  naughty."  She 
leaned  still  further  over  the  banister 
and  tried  in  vain  to  overhear  what 
the}'  were  talking  about. 

Suddenl}^  she  straightened  up,  stood 
a  moment  as  if  trying  to  make  her- 
self an  inch  taller,  for  a  bright  thought 
had  come  to  her  relief  —  the  American 
woman. 

"I  have  it,  and  I'll  do  it." 

She  slipped  noiselessly  into  her  own 
{Continued  on  page  xvi) 


230 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


THE 

BOSTON     COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OP 

Culinary   Science  and    Domestic    Economics 
Janet  McKenzie  Hill,  Editor 

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CONCERNING  ADVERTISEMENTS 


D 


ecem 


ber 


Clear,  frosty  night  on  the  Judean  plains; 
The  heavens  inlaid  with  glittering  points 
of  gold 
That  faintly  gleam  in  the  far,  velvet  skies 
Upon  the  earth  snow-bound  and  dark  and 
cold. 
One  tiny  light  struggles  to  break  the  gloom, 
One  feeble   ray  against  the  wind's   fierce 
sweep. 
It  flickers  softly  on  the  drowsy  kine. 

On  Mary's  babe  soft-stirring  in  his  sleep. 
How  far  the  little  candle  throws  its  light! 
Through  what  dark  shadows  in  the  encir- 
cling night! 

Helen  Coale  Crew. 


"The  skillful  physician  and  the  well- 
trained  nurse  who  are  faithful  to  their 
duties  are  among  the  finest  discoveries 
and  inventions  of  the  last  half  century." 


I 


"T  is  the  advertising  patronage 
that  enables  magazines  to  suc- 
ceed." Surely  the  Cooking- 
School  Magazine  carries  no  fake 
advertising.  The  kind  and  character 
of  its  advertisements  are,  manifestly, 
special  in  class,  and  of  the  highest 
order.  This  fact  in  itself  is  sufficient 
guarantee  to  our  readers,  and  yet  we 
are  perfectly  willing  to  stand  voucher 
for  every  article  presented  in  our  ad- 
vertising pages. 

We  wish  to  add  that,  under  present 
conditions  of  publication,  in  no  wise 
can  our  readers  do  better  for  them- 
selves, and  at  the  same  time  help  us 
produce,  for  our  mutual  profit,  abetter 
periodical,  than  by  simply  bestowing 
some  part  of  their  patronage  upon  our 
advertisers.  Look  over,  then,  carefully 
our  advertising  pages ;  these  are  neither 
numerous  nor  flashy  and  misleading, 
but  are  suited  especially  to  the  needs 
of  intelligent  home-makers.  Invariably 
the  articles  are  just  what  they  are 
represented  to  be,  safe,  reliable  and  of 
the  highest  quality  and  standard. 
Why  not,  as  need  or  occasion  arises, 
select  what  you  want  or  correspond 
with  our  patrons  and  give  them  your 
orders?  In  our  own  case  we  are  trying 
to  practise  immediate  and  widespread 
cooperation. 

WHOLESOME  ECONOMY 

THIS  magazine  stands  for 
economy  first,  last  and  always. 
It  regards  cheerful,  wholesome 
living  as  the  condition  of  first  im- 
portance to  be  sought  for.  To  run  an 
express  train  or  a  steamship  success- 
fully, the  engine  must  be  a  first-class 
machine,  and  it  must  be  kept  in  most 
perfect  order;  also  the  engineer  must 
be  intelligent  and  skillful.  Any  neglect 
here  is  a  blunder.  So,  we  think,  even 
in  times  of  financial  urgency,  the 
kitchen  should  be  the  least  negligible 
department  of  the  household.     When 


EDITORIALS 


231 


economy  must  be  practised,  it  were 
wiser  to  begin,  for  instance,  on  clothes 
than  on  foods.  We  can^spend  less  for 
amusements  and  in  travel,  etc.,  but 
only  with  the  greatest  reluctance 
should  we  submit  to  any  considerable 
curtailment  in  our  diet.  Hence,  it 
would  seem  to  follow  that  any  system 
of  economics  that  puts  unnatural 
barriers  between  us  and  our  food 
supplies  is  criminal. 

To  many  of  us,  in  these  days  of 
inflated  values,  the  most  expensive 
cuts  of  meat  and  the  choicest  brands 
of  many  products  are  to  be  looked 
upon  as  luxuries,  for  the  prices  of 
such  are  well-nigh  prohibitive.  But 
we  need  ever  be  reminded  that,  in 
skillful  hands,  the  less  expensive  cuts 
of  meat  and  the  less  exclusive  products, 
no  less  nutritious,  can  be  rendered 
into  most  appetizing  and  satisfactory 
dishes. 

Economy  comes  largely  through 
thought  and  discretion ;  we  want  above 
all  intelligent  and  skillful  housekeepers. 
In  a  measure,  we  have  already  the 
trained  bookkeeper,  stenographer, 
librarian,  secretary,  etc.,  and  the 
trained  nurse.  We  are,  however,  still 
sadly  in  need  of  the  trained  cook  and 
housekeeper.  From  the  point  of  view 
of  economic,  wholesome  living,  this 
magazine  aims  to  be  a  constant  source 
of  useful  instruction  and  helpfulness 
in  the  home.  Vocational  education  is 
the  kind  of  culture  most  in  demand 
today,  and  vocational  cultivation  is 
the  one  subject  upon  which  our  best 
efforts  are  expended. 

SATISFACTIONS  THAT    ENDURE 

A  RESONANT  note  of  opti- 
mism is  said  to  run  through 
Dr.  Eliot's  new  book  of  col- 
lected essays  and  addresses,  entitled 
"The  Durable  Satisfactions  of  Life." 
Among  these  satisfactions  he  extols 
the  pleasures  of  the  eye  and  ear,  the 
domestic  affections,  the  satisfaction  in 
physical  and  mental  exertion,  of  mu- 


tual service  and  cooperation,  and  that 
of  making  a  judicious  selection  of  be- 
liefs. He  begins  with  the  satisfactions 
of  sense,  as  quoted  in  Current  Litera- 
ture: 

"Sensuous  pleasures,  like  eating  and 
drinking,  are  sometimes  described  as 
animal,  and  therefore  unworthy.  It 
must  be  confessed,  however,  that  men 
are  in  this  life  animals  all  through,  — ■ 
whatever  else  they  may  be,  —  and 
that  they  have  a  right  to  enjoy  without 
reproach  those  pleasures  of  animal  ex- 
istence which  maintain  health,  strength 
and  life  itself.  Familiar  Ascetic  and 
pessimistic  dogmas  to  the  contrary 
notwithstanding,  these  pleasures,  taken 
naturally  and  in  moderation,  are  all 
pure,  honorable  and  wholesome. 

"Moreover,  all  attempts  to  draw  a 
line  between  bodily  satisfactions  on  the 
one  hand  and  mental  or  spiritual  satis- 
factions on  the  other,  and  to  distin- 
guish the  first  as  beastly  indulgences 
and  the  second  as  the  only  pleasures 
worthy  of  a  rational  being,  have  failed 
and  must  fail;  for  it  is  manifestly  im- 
possible to  draw  a  sharp  line  of  division 
between  pleasures,  and  to  say  that 
these  are  bodily  and  those  intellectual 
or  moral.  .  .  . 

"Taking  food  and  drink  is  a  great 
enjoyment  for  healthy  people,  and 
those  who  do  not  enjoy  eating  seldom 
have  much  capacity  for  enjoyment  or 
usefulness  of  any  sort.  Under  ordi- 
nary circumstances  it  is  by  no  means 
a  purely  bodily  pleasure.  We  do  not 
eat  alone,  but  in  families  or  sets  of 
friends  and  comrades;  and  the  table  is 
the  best  center  of  friendships  and  of 
the  domestic  affections.  When,  there- 
fore, a  workingman  says  that  he  has 
worked  all  his  life  to  procure  a  subsist- 
ence for  himself  and  his  family,  he 
states  that  he  has  secured  some  funda- 
mental satisfactions,  namely,  food, 
productive  employment  and  family 
life.  The  satisfaction  of  eating  is  so 
completely  a  matter  of  appetite  that 
such   distinction   as   there   is   between 


232 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


the  luxurious  and  the  hardy,  in  regard 
to  this  enjoyment,  is  altogether  in  favor 
of  the  hardy.  Who  does  not  remember 
some  rough  and  perhaps  scanty  meal 
in  camp,  or  on  the  march  or  at  sea,  or  in 
the  woods,  which  was  infinitely  more 
delicious  than  the  most  luxurious  din- 
ner during  indoor  or  sedentary  life? 
But  that  appetite  depends  on  health. 

"Take  good  care,  then,  of  your 
teeth  and  your  stomachs,  and  be 
ashamed,  not  of  enjoying  your  food,  but 
of  not  enjoying  it.  There  was  a  deal 
of  sound  human  nature  in  the  unex- 
pected reply  of  the  dying  old  woman 
to  her  minister's  leading  question, 
'  Here  at  the  end  of  a  long  life,  which  of 
the  Lord's  mercies  are  you  most  thank- 
ful for?'  Her  eye  brightened  as  she 
answered,  'My  victuals.'  " 

CHRISTMAS    PRESENTS 

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continuous  subscription  for  four  years. 

For  six  new  subscriptions  we  give  a 
chafing  dish  that  pleases  every  one 
who  receives  it. 

What  better  can  you  do,  in  the  line 
of  useful  presents,  for  the  same  amount 
of  money  or  effort  expended  ? 


that  human  beings  do  not  live  as  long 
as  they  might  as  compared  to  the  life 
of  animals.  The  relation  of  malnu- 
trition and  indigestion  and  ignorance  of 
health  laws  to  the  shortness  of  Hfe  is 
clear.  It  is  authoritatively  declared 
that,  if  mankind  were  properly  fed, 
life  would  be  greatly  extended  and  be 
much  happier.  Jane  A.  Stewart. 


Of  course  it  goes  without  saying  that 
the  heaviest  artillery  of  our  futures 
warfare  against  disease  will  be  directed 
toward  its  prevention  rather  than  its 
cure.  The  best  and  only  radical  cure 
of  disease  consists  in  preventing  its 
spread  and  wiping  out  the  conditions 
which  alone  render  its  existence  possi- 
ble—  poor  food,  dirty  water,  bad  drain- 
age, dark  and  ill- ventilated  houses. 

More  and  more  of  our  energy  and 
brain  power  will  be  devoted  to  the 
cheerful,  positive  task  of  keeping  our 
bodies  so  strong  and  wholesome  and 
vigorous  that  they  can  defy  disease,  in- 
stead of  the  negative  and  melancholy  one 
of  patching  them  up  after  they  are  sick. 

Food,  rest,  sunshine,  exercise,  bath- 
ing, massage  —  these  are  the  sheet- 
anchors  of  our  new  materia  medica. 

No  drug — save  quinine  and  mercury 
in  special  cases — will  cure  a  disease; 
only  rest,  food,  sunshine  and  fresh  air 
can  work  that  miracle. 

Dr.  Woods  Hutchinson. 


Kate  Field  once  said: 

' '  The  world  would  go  on  just  the  same 
if  there  were  not  a  woman  in  the  pro- 
fessions. It  would  come  to  speedy  ruin 
if  there  were  no  women  in  the  home." 


The  teaching  of  home-making  has  a 
close  relationship  to  the  economics  of 
the  world  and  to  world  reforms.  A  very 
large  portion  of  the  business  world  is 
engaged  in  supplying  food  and  cloth- 
ing   for    mankind.     Scientists    tell    us 


Surely  the  interest  in  household 
economy  is  rapidly  growing.  In  making 
up  your  list  of  home  periodicals  for 
the  coming  year,  do  not  fail  to  include 
the  Cooking-School  Magazine,  an 
exclusively  household  publication. 


Christmas  Fudge  Cake 

(See  page  240) 


Seasonable  Recipes 

By  Janet  M.  Hill 

TX  all  recipes  where  flour  is  used,  unless  otherwise  stated,  the  flour  is  measured  after  sifting 
once.     When  flour  is  measured  by  cups,  the  cup  is  filled  with  a  spoon,  and  a  level  cupful 
is  meant.     A  tablespoonful  or  a  teaspoonful  of  any  designated  material  is  a  level  spoonful 
of  such  material. 


Crabflake  Canapes,  Maltaise 

From  slices  of  stale  bread  cut  one- 
fourth  an  inch  thick,  stamp  out 
oval  shapes,  two  and  one-half  by  one 
and  a  quarter  inches ;  spread  these  with 
butter  and  let  brown  in  the  oven. 
When  cold  spread  lightly  with  caviare. 
Chop  fine  one  cup  of  crabfiakes  and 
mix  with  sauce  tartare.  Spread  this 
quite  generously  over  the  caviare.  Add 
one-fourth  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt 
and  white  pepper  to  half  a  cup  of 
cream,  and  beat  the  cream  until  firm. 
Tint  half  of  the  cream  red  and  the 
other  half  green,  with  color  pastes. 
With  small  star  tubes  pipe  two  red  and 
two  green  stars  of  cream  in  the  center 
of  each  canape.  Serve  very  cold,  as 
an  appetizer,  at  the  beginning,  or,  as  a 
savory,  at  the  close  of  a  formal  dinner. 


Lobster,    shrimp,    salmon    or    halibut 
may  be  used  for  similar  canapes. 

Christmas  Consomme 

Use  recipe  for  consomme  found  in 
any  standard  cook  book.  In  clarify- 
ing, the  crushed  shells  and  three  whites 
of  eggs  will  be  needed  for  each  two 
quarts  of  soup.  Serve  in  the  soup 
small  squares  or  other  shapes  of 
spinach-and-tomato  custard  or  use  the 
tomato  custard  and  green  peas  or 
flageolet.  SHces  of  cooked  celery  or 
squares  of  turnip  may  be  used  with 
either  of  the  above. 

Tomato  Custard 

Beat  three  yolks  and  one  whole  Qgg\ 
add  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of 
salt  and  paprika  and  half  a  cup  of  well- 
reduced  tomato   puree.     Turn   into   a 


233 


234 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


buttered  dish.  Cook  in  a  dish  of  water 
in  a  slow  oven.  For  spinach  or  green 
pea  custard  use  the  respective  purees. 

Christmas  Soup 

Take  one  quart  of  turkey,  chicken, 
lamb  or  veal  broth,  made  from  cleansed 
chickens'  feet,  giblets  of  fowls,  trim- 
mings from  chops,  etc.  Add  one  cup 
and  a  half  of  canned  tomatoes,  an  onion 
cut  in  slices,  half  a  cup  of  celery  leaves, 
a  few  slices  of  carrot  and  half  a  green 
or  red  pepper  without  seeds;  let 
simmer  very  gently  fifteen  minutes. 
Add  two  level  tablespoonfuls  of  corn- 


pan  if  desired.  Serve  on  a  bed  of 
mashed  turnip.  Serve  also  with  this 
dish,  apple  sauce  or  cabbage  salad, 
one  or  both. 

Marinated  Shoulder  of  Pig, 
Roasted 

Bruise  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper  corns; 
add  to  them  a  green  or  red  pepper, 
freed  from  seeds  and  sliced,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  two  small  onions, 
sliced;  half  a  dozen  cloves,  a  bay  leaf 
broken  in  bits,  and  a  cup  of  vinegar. 
Set  a  shoulder  of  young  pig  in  a  deep 
earthen    dish,    pour   over   the   vinegar 


Shoulder  of  Pig,  Roasted 


starch,  wet  with  cold  water,  and  salt 
as  needed.  Stir  until  boiling;  let 
simmer  ten  minutes,  then  strain.  Serve 
two-thirds  a  cup  of  soup  in  each  plate; 
sprinkle  the  top  with  fine-chopped 
parsley. 

Shoulder  of  Pig,  Roasted 

Have  a  shoulder  weighing  three  and 
a  half  or  four  pounds.  Score  the  skin 
transversely,  brush  over  with  olive  oil, 
rub  with  salt  and  pepper  and  dredge 
with  flour.  Set  to  cook  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Let  cook,  if  in  a  double  pan, 
about  three  hours.  Baste  with  oil  and 
dredge  with  flour  three  or  four  times. 
A  little  water  may  be   added  to   the 


mixture,  cover  and  set  aside  in  a  cool 
place.  Turn  and  baste  the  shoulder  in 
the  marinade  each  day  for  five  days. 
Set  to  cook,  in  a  moderate  oven,  in  an 
earthen  casserole,  with  part  of  the 
marinade.  Leave  the  dish  uncovered, 
basting  often  with  the  liquid.  When 
nearly  cooked  brush  with  olive  oil, 
dredge  with  flour,  and  let  the  crust 
brown.  Serve  with  a  brown  tomato 
sauce. 

Brown  Tomato  Sauce 

Melt  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
and  in  it  cook  two  thin  slices  of  onion 
until  well  browned;  add  four  table- 
spoonfuls of  flour,  stir  and  cook  until 


SEASONABLE    RECIPES 


235 


Chicken  Salad,  Christmas  Style 
(See  page  236) 


brown,  then  add  one  cup  of  strained 
tomato  and  half  a  cup  of  the  Hquid 
from  the  casserole  and  stir  until  boil- 
ing; add  salt  as  needed,  and  kitchen 
bouquet  to  color ;  strain  and  the  sauce 
is  ready. 

Cabbage  Salad  for  Roast  Pork 
Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs;  add 
four  teaspoonfuls  of  sugar,  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  mustard,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
paprika,  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  five  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  and 
a  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Cook  over 
hot  water  until  smooth  and  thick. 
Set  aside  to  become  cold.  Let  cabbage, 
cut  in  large  pieces,  stand  in  cold  water 
to  chill  and  crispen,  then  shake  and 
drain  and  dry  on  a  cloth.  Shave  very 
fine,   removing   coarse,    solid   portions, 


or  chop  not  too  fine.  When  ready  to 
serve  mix  the  dressing  through  about  a 
pint  of  cabbage  and  serve  at  once. 

Sweet-Pickle  Jelly 

Soften  one-fourth  a  package  of  gela- 
tine in  one-fourth  a  cup  of  cold  water 
and  dissolve  in  one  cup  of  liquid  from 
a  jar  of  sweet  pickles;  let  cool  a  little, 
then  add  one  cup  of  sweet  pickled 
mangoes,  peaches,  pears,  melon  rind, 
etc. ;  cut  in  bits,  one  orange  (juice  and 
pulp  in  bits)  and  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  maraschino  cherries,  with  two  or 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  the  liquid  from 
the  cherries.  Stir  in  ice  water  until  the 
liquid  will  hold  up  the  fruit,  then  turn 
into  one  large  or  several  small  molds. 
Serve,  turned  from  the  molds,  with 
roast  fowl  or  other  meats. 


Fried  Chicken,  PimexNtos  Filled  with  Baltimore  Samp,  in  Cream  Sauce 


236 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Fried  Chicken  with  Samp 

Separate  a  well-cleaned  chicken  into 
pieces  at  the  joints;  wash  with  care, 
cover  with  boiling  water  and  let  heat 
quickly  to  the  boiling  point.  After 
boiling  five  minutes,  let  simmer  until 
tender.  Mix  half  a  cup  of  flour,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  dash  of 
pepper.  Drain  the  pieces  of  chicken 
and  roll  them  in  the  flour,  then  let 
cook  in  hot,  salt  pork  fat  until  nicely 
browned.  Dispose  on  a  serving  dish. 
Surround    with    pimentos,    filled    with 


pint  of  the  chicken  broth  and  half  a 
cup  of  cream  and  stir  until  boiling. 
Into  one  cup  of  this  sauce,  stir  as  much 
of  the  samp,  taken  up  without  any 
liquid,  as  the  sauce  will  hold,  and  use 
this  to  fill  the  lined  molds.  Set  the 
molds  into  the  oven;  when  required, 
unmold  as  above. 

Chicken  Salad,  Christmas  Style 

Cut  well-cooked,  cold  chicken  into 
half-inch  squares  or  cubes.  Over  each 
pint  of  chicken  turn  three  or  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  olive  oil,  sprinkle  on 


Swedish  Bread 
(Seepage  238) 


Baltimore  samp,  and  serve  with  bech- 
amel sauce  in  a  bowl. 

Pimentos  with   Samp 

Drain  a  can  of  pimentos,  cover  with 
cold  water  and  drain  again.  Use  these 
to  fill  timbale  molds,  trimming  the 
pimento  even  with  the  top  of  the  mold. 
Wash  and  drain  a  cup  of  samp;  add  a 
quart  of  boiling  water  and  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  let  cook  all  day  (over- 
night in  a  fireless  cooker  is  the  best 
plan) ;  while  the  chicken  is  being 
sauted,  melt  one-third  a  cup  of  butter; 
in  it  cook  one-third  a  cup  of  flour,  a 
scant  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper;  add  one 


a  scant  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a 
generous  dash  of  paprika;  turn  the 
mixture  over  and  over,  until  the  chicken 
has  absorbed  the  oil.  If  the  mixture 
looks  dry,  add  another  tablespoonful 
of  oil  and  mix  again.  Then  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  vinegar  and  mix  again. 
Cover  and  set  aside  in  a  cool  place  for 
several  hours.  Slice  enough  crisp,  well- 
blanched,  inner  stalks  of  celery  to  equal 
one-third  or  one-half  the  measure  of 
chicken.  Drain  the  chicken,  add  the 
celery,  mix  thoroughly,  then  add  may- 
onnaise or  boiled  dressing,  as  is  pre- 
ferred, to  hold  the  pieces  together. 
Dispose  in  an  oval  mound  on  a  serving 
dish,  make  smooth  with  a  silver  knife, 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


237 


Frozen  Eggnog 
(See  page  241) 


then  mask  or  cover  neatly  with  more 
of  the  dressing.  Have  ready  a  Httle 
chopped  pimento,  a  few  capers,  and 
some  gherkins  or  oHves,  cut  in  sHces 
and  shaped  to  represent  leaves.  With 
these  fashion  four  wreath  shapes  on 
the  mound  of  salad.  Fringe  one  end 
of  some  short  pieces  of  celery  and  push 
these  in  around  the  salad,  between  it 
and  the  dish.  Finish  with  light  celery 
leaves  at  the  top.     Serve  as  soon  as 


possible  after  it  is  finished,  or  set  aside 
in  the  refrigerator. 

Kornlet  Succotash 

Let  a  cup  of  dried  Lima  beans  soak 
overnight  in  cold  water;  drain  and  set 
to  cook  in  a  fresh  supply  of  water. 
Let  simmer  gently,  replenishing  the 
water  as  needed,  two  or  three  hours, 
or  until  tender,  yet  whole.  The  water 
should  be  evaporated  when  the  cook- 


Meringues  Filled  with  Whipped  Cream 

(See  page  240) 


238 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


ing  is  finished.  A  green  or  red 
pepper,  cut  in  shreds,  may  be  cooked 
with  the  beans.  Add  a  can  of  komlet 
and  three-fourths  a  cup  of  tomato 
puree  (cooked  tomatoes  pressed  through 
a  sieve),  and  let  boil  two  or  three 
minutes.  Add  two  or  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  or 
more  of  salt  and  mix  thoroughly. 
Serve  as  the  main  dish  at  luncheon  or 
supper,  or  as  a  vegetable  at  dinner. 
Succotash  with  rolls  and  butter  is  one 
of  the  standard  and  popular  dishes  at 
several  of  the  lunch  rooms  in  Boston. 

Swedish  Bread 

Pour  two  cups  of  boiling  water  over 
one  cup  of  com  meal,  two  level  table- 


Fish-and-Oyster  Pie 

Have  ready  a  pint  of  cooked  fish, 
separated  into  flakes  and  freed  from 
skin  and  bone,  a  pint  of  raw  oysters, 
and  some  trimmings  of  puff-paste 
(that  left  after  patties  have  been  cut 
out)  or  of  flaky  pastry.  Chopped 
parsley,  powdered  basil,  butter,  pepper 
and  salt  and  a  little  cream  will  also  be 
needed.  In  a  rather  shallow  dish  put 
a  layer  of  the  fish  and  add  bits  of 
butter,  a  sprinkling  of  herbs  and  sea- 
soning; over  this  set  a  layer  of  oysters, 
with  seasoning;  alternate  the  layers  of 
fish  and  oysters  until  all  are  used. 
Strain  in  the  oyster  liquor,  and  add  a 
few  spoonfuls  of  cream,  if  the  mixture 


Christmas  Baskets 


spoonfuls  of  lard  and  one  teaspoonful 
of' salt.  Mix  thoroughly,  then  let  cool. 
When  the  mixture  is  of  lukewarm 
temperature,  add  a  cake  of  compressed 
yeast,  stirred  into  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  lukewarm  water,  three-fourths  a  cup 
of  molasses  and  wheat  flour  to  make  a 
dough  stiff  enough  to  knead.  Knead 
until  elastic,  cover  closely  and  let  stand 
in  a  temperature  of  about  70°  Fahr.  until 
doubled  in  bulk.  Shape  into  two  loaves 
and  when  again  light  bake  one  hour. 


looks  dry.  If  there  is  much  oyster 
liquor,  one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  ot 
buttered  cracker  crumbs  may  be 
sprinkled  over  each  layer  of  fish  and 
oysters.  Cut  the  pastry  into  strips 
half  an  inch  wide  and  set  them  over 
the  top  of  the  filling,  half  an  inch 
apart;  then  set  strips  of  pastry  in  the 
opposite  direction,  to  make  diamond- 
shaped  openings.  Bake  about  twenty 
minutes  or  until  the  pastry  is  well 
browned. 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


239 


Christmas  Baskets 

Beat  half  a  cup  of  butter  to  a  cream ; 
gradually  beat  in  one  cup  of  granu- 
lated sugar,  then  the 
beaten  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  one-fourth  a  cup 
of  sweet  cream,  two 
cups  of  sifted  flour, 
sifted  again  with  a 
slightly  rounding  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking 
powder,  and,  lastly, 
the  whites  of  three 
eggs,  beaten  dry,  and 
half  a  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla  extract. 
Bake  in  deep,  round  cups  or  a  gem 
pan.  If  an  iron  gem  pan  be  used, 
it  must  be  heated  a  little  before  the 
mixture  is  put  into  it.  Bake  about 
half  an  hour.  As  soon  as  the  cakes  are 
cooled  a  little,  cut  out  the  centers,  to 
make  hollow  cups.  Soften  some  spa- 
ghetti by  coiling  it  in  a  saucepan  of 
boiling  water,  cut  to  the  length  re- 
quired for  handles,  shape  as  desired  on 
a  board  and  let  dr\^  then  set  in  place. 
Beat  one  cup  of  double  cream,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  one-fourth 
a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  until  firm ;  add 
half  a  cup  of  chopped  nuts  (hazel  nuts 
or  almonds  with  a  few  pistachio  nuts), 
and  use  to  fill  the  baskets.  Sprinkle 
a  tablespoonful  of  nuts  above  the 
cream.  On  account  of  the  color, 
pistachio     nuts     are     particularly     ap- 


propriate for  a  Christmas  dish.  If 
more  elaborate  baskets  are  desired, 
cover  with  confectioners'  frosting  and 
pipe    ornamental    frosting    above.      In 


IHj^^^ 

i 

-*< 

i 

^^^ 

jf -^  _  ^^  itfgS^^'^--  ^ 

Christmas  Wreaths 

the  illustration,  the  confectioners' 
frosting  was  white  and  the  boiled, 
ornamental  frosting  was  tinted  light 
green.  Both  frostings  have  been  given 
repeatedly  in  our  columns. 

Christmas  Wreaths 
Beat  half  a  cup  of  butter  to  a  cream; 
gradually  beat  in  one  cup  of  sugar,  the 
grated  rind  and  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  the 
white  of  one  ^gg,  beaten  dry,  then 
flour  to  make  a  stiff  dough.  Roll  into 
a  thin  sheet  and  cut  with  a  doughnut 
cutter.  Beat  the  white  of  one  ^gg  and  use 
to  brush  over  the  cakes;  set  in  baking 
pans;  sprinkle  with  chopped  pistachio 
nuts  (blanched  first)  and  add  here  and 
there  small,  round,  red  candies.  Bake 
delicatelv  in  a  verv  moderate  oven. 


Marshmallows  Glace 


240 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Marsh  ma  Hows  Glace 

Put  two  cups  of  granulated  sugar, 
one  tablespoonful  of  glucose  and  one 
cup  of  boiling  water  over  the  fire;  stir 
until  the  sugar  is  melted,  then  with  the 
hand  or  a  brush  dipped  repeatedly  in 
cold  water  wash  down  the  sides  of  the 
saucepan;  cover  and  let  boil  three  or 
four  minutes,  then  uncover  and  let 
cook  to  about  295°  Fahr.  or  until  the 
syrup  begins  to  turn  to  an  amber  color. 
Remove  to  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water. 
Have  small  marshmallows,  or  larger 
ones  cut  in  halves,  freed  from  corn- 
starch; drop  these  into  the  syrup  and 
with  a  dipping  fork  or  hat  pin  lift  out 
and  set  on  the  bottom  of  an  inverted 
tin  pan.  When  cold  they  are  ready 
to  use.  These  are  at  their  best  the  day 
of  dipping. 

Meringues  with  Whipped  Cream 

Beat  one  cup  of  egg  whites  until 
firm,  then  gradually  beat  in  two  cups 
and  one-half  of  granulated  sugar  and 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 
Fasten  strips  (2^  inches  wide)  of  waxed 
paper  on  hardwood  boards  (an  inch 
thick)    of   suitable    size   for   the   oven. 


On  the  paper  mark  rounds  of  uniform 
size  (use  cover  of  one-half  pound  bak- 
ing powder  box) ;  with  a  spoon  fill  these 
with  the  meringue  mixture  and  dredge 
the  rounds  with  granulated  sugar.  Let 
bake  in  a  very  slack  oven  about  three- 
fourths  of  an  hour,  then  increase  the 
heat  and  let  color  a  delicate  brown. 
Remove  the  papers  from  the  boards, 
one  at  a  time,  and  invert  to  take  off 
the  meringues.  Take  out  a  small  por- 
tion from  the  soft  center  of  each  me- 
ringue, dredge  with  sugar  and  return 
this  side  up  to  dry  off  a  little.  When 
cold  fill  the  centers  with  ice  cream  or 
whipped  cream,  sweetened  and  flavored 
before  whipping.     Serve  at  once. 

Christmas  Fudge  Cake 

Melt  one-fourth  a  pound  of  chocolate ; 
add  one  cup  of  light  brown  sugar  and 
half  a  cup  of  milk  and  stir  until  the 
sugar  is  melted,  then  stir  and  cook  to 
a  smooth  paste;  add  a  beaten  egg  and 
set  aside  to  become  cold.  Beat  half  a 
cup  of  butter  to  a  cream;  gradually 
beat  in  one  cup  of  sugar,  the  beaten 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  and,  alternately, 
half  a  cup  of  milk  and  two  and  one- 
half  cups  of  sifted  flour,   sifted  again 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


241 


with  three  level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking 
powder.  Lastly,  add  the  whites  of 
two  eggs,  beaten  dry,  the  cold  choco- 
late mixture  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
warm  water.  Beat  thoroughly.  Bake 
in  two  layer  cake  pans,  about  twenty- 
five  minutes. 

Fruit-and-Nut  Filling  and  Icing 
Boil  one  cup  and  a  half  of  sugar  and 
one-third  a  cup  of  water,  as  in  making 
fondant,  to  242°  Fahr.  Pour  in  a  fine 
stream  upon  the  whites  of  three  eggs, 
beaten  dry,  beating  constantly  mean- 
while. To  one-third  of  the  frosting 
add  half  a  cup,  each,  of  nuts  and  seeded 
raisins,  chopped  fine.  Flavor  to  taste 
and  use  as  a  filling  between  the  layers. 
Cover  the  top  and  sides  with  the  rest 
of  the  icing  and  decorate  with  halves 
of  English  walnut  meats. 

Frozen  Eggnog 

Beat  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  until  light; 
gradually  beat  in  one  cup  and  a  fourth 
of  sugar,  then,  very  slowly,  one-fourth 
to  one  half  a  cup  of  rum ;  and  let  stand 
overnight  or  several  hours;  add  one 
quart  of  rich  milk  and  begin  to  freeze 
as  an' ice  cream.  Beat  the  whites  of  six 
eggs  until  dry  and  a  cup  of  rich,  double 
cream  until  firm  throughout;  fold  the 
whites  and  cream  together.  When 
the  mixture  in  the  freezer  is  partly 
frozen,  add  the  whites  and  cream 
and  finish  freezing.  Serve  in  glass 
cups  with  a  grating  of  nutmeg  above. 

Frozen  Eggnog  (Kentucky  Recipe) 

Beat  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs  until 
thick  and  lemon-colored;  gradually 
beat  in  one  cup  of  sugar. .  Beat  the 
whites  of  twelve  eggs  till  dry,  then  cut 
and  fold  them  into  the  yolks  and  sugar. 
Add,  very  gradually,  one-fourth  a  cup 
of  rum  and  one  cup  of  whiskey.  The  mix  - 
ture  will  freeze  better,  if  only  half  a  cup 
of  whiskey  be  used.  Let  stand  several 
hours  to  "cook"  thoroughly  the  eggs. 
Add  one  pint  of  cream,  whipped  firm, 
and  freeze.      Serve  in  punch  glasses. 


Pralines 

Melt  two  cups  of  light  brown  sugar 
in  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice 
and  two-thirds  a  cup  of  boiling  water. 
When  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  draw  the 
saucepan  to  a  hotter  part  of  the  range 
and  let  boil  until  a  soft  ball  may  be 
formed,  when  tested  in  cold  water,  or 
to  240°  Fahr.  Remove  from  the  fire 
and  let  stand  on  a  cake  cooler  until  of 
a  lukewarm  temperature;  add  one  cup 
of  pecan  nut  meats,  broken  in  pieces, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract  and 
one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon, 
and  beat  until  creamy.  Drop  from  the 
tip  of  a  spoon  on  waxed  paper.  This 
will  make  two  dozen  or  more  candies. 

Maple  Fudge 

Take  two  cups  of  maple  syrup  or  one 
pound  of  maple  sugar,  broken  in  small 
pieces,  and  one  cup  of  cream  or  rich 
milk.  Cook  to  240°  Fahr.  or  to  a  soft 
ball.  Let  stand  on  a  cake  cooler  until 
lukewarm;  add  a  cup  of  nut  meats, 
broken  in  pieces,  beat  until  creamy,  then 
turn  into  a  buttered  pan.  Unmold 
in  a  few  minutes  and  cut  into  cubes. 

Grape-juice  Syllabub 
Beat  the  white  of  an  egg  dry;  add 
three-fourths  a  cup  of  grapejuice, mixed 
with  one-third  a  cup  of  sugar  and  one 
cup  of  thick  cream,  and  beat  with  a 
cream  whip  or  churn.  Take  off  the 
froth  as  it  rises  and  drain  on  a  sieve. 
Pour  the  unwhipped  mixture  into 
glasses,  pile  the  whip  above  and  chill 
thoroughly  before  serving. 

Stewed  Tomatoes 

Melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter; 
in  it  cook  half  a  green  or  red  pepper 
(without  seeds),  chopped  rather  coarse, 
until  softened  but  not  browned;  add 
a  can  of  tomatoes,  a  tablespoonful  of 
onion  pulp  (scraped  with  a  knife),  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  cup  of  soft 
bread  crumbs.  Let  simmer  until  the 
water  is  evaporated. 


Menus  for  Week  in  December 


Breakfast 

Grape-fruit' 
Brioche  Rolls 
Cofifee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Christinas  Soup 

Roast  Duck,  Apple  Sauce 

Boiled  Onions  in  Cream 

Mashed  Potatoes.     Celery 

Mince  Pie 

Half  Cups  of  CofTee 

Supper 

Creamed  Oysters  in 

Swedish  Timbale  Cases 

Homemade  Pickles 

Pineapple  Sherbet 


Breakfast 

E-C  Com  Flakes,  Dates,  Thin  Cream 

Pork  (cold  shoulder)  and  Potato  Hash 

White  Com  Meal  Muffins 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Komlet  Succotash 

Yeast  Rolls,  Butter 

Squash  Pie.     Cocoa.     Tea 

Dinner 

Canned  Salmon  (made  hot  in  can) 

Egg  Sauce 

Boiled  Potatoes 

Stewed  Tomatoes  (with  red  peppers) 

Canned  Apricot  Shortcake 

Half  Cups  of  Cofifee 


Breakfast 

E-C  Cora  Flakes 

Salt  Mackerel  Cooked  in  Milk 

White  Hashed  Potatoes 

Dry  Toast.     Coffee 

Luncheon 

Hashed  Duck  on  Toast 

Celery-and-Apple  Salad 

Cranberry  Tarts.     Coffee 

Dinner 

Shoiilder  of  Young  Pig,  Baked 

Turnip  Piir6e.     Mashed  Potatoes 

Apples  Baked  in  Casserole 

Cabbage  Salad 

Chocolate  Cottage  Pudding. FoamySauce 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 


Breakfast 

Sausage,  Mashed  Potatoes 

Buckwheat  Griddle  Cakes 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Potato  Salad 

Sardines 

Apples  Baked  with  Almonds, 

Thin  Cream.     Cookies 

Tea 

Dinner 

Cold  Roast  Beef,  SHced  Thin 

Baked  Sweet  Potatoes 

Macaroni  with  Tomatoes  and  Cheese 

Christmas  Cake 

Half  Cups  of  Coft"ee 


Breakfast 

Broiled  Bacon 

Creamed  Potatoes 

Komlet  Griddle  Cakes 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Cold  Shoulder  of  Pig,  Sliced  Thin 

Apple-and-Date  Salad 

Swedish  Bread  and  Butter 

0)ffee  Jelly 

Dinner 

Rib  Roast  of  Beef 
Franconia  Potatoes.     Squash 

Sweet-Pickle  Jelly 

Grape-juice  Syllabub 

Cookies.     Half  Cups  of  Coffee 


Breakfast 

Salt  Codfish  Balls 

Broiled  Bacon 

Spider  Com  Cake 

Doughnuts.     Coffee 

Luncheon 

Welsh  Rabbit 

Date  Loaf  Cake 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Boiled  Fish,  Egg  Sauce 

Boiled  Potatoes 

Buttered  Onions.     Pickles 

Hot  Apple  Pie 

Edam  Cheese 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 


Breakfast 

Boiled  Rice,  Sliced 

Bananas,  Thin  Cream 

Broiled  Ham 

Hashed  Brown  Potatoes 

Parker  House  Rolls 

(reheated) 

Coffee.     ODcoa 


Luncheon 

Fish-and-Oyster  Pie 

Philadelphia  Rehsh 

Parker  House  Rolls 

Pineapple  Sherbet 
242 


Dinner 

Fried  Chicken 

Creamed  Baltimore  Samp 

in  Pimentos 

Celery 

Macedoine  of  Prune-and- 

^  Nut  Jelly 

Whipped  Cream 

Half  (^ups  of  Coffee 


Economical  Menus  for  a  Week  in  December 


(3  Adults) 


Breakfast 
E-C  Com  Flakes.  Thin  Cre:i:n 

Glazed  C'-irrs.nt  Bitns 
Cortee 

Dinner 

Fried  CMcken  (half) 

Baked  Sweet  Potatoes 

Cranberry  Sauce 

Celery 

Cottage  Pudding  (half) 

Frothy  Sauce 

Coffee 


Milk  Toast 

Cookies 

Tea 


Chicken  '. 


Boiled  Corned  r  -  .:  s.) 

Boiled  7 
Boiled 
BoOed  Spina 
Squj- 
Half  Cuj  5 

Sur: 
Fried  Mush,  Molasses  or  Sjnq) 
Bread  and  Butter 
Stewed  Prunes.     Tea 


n 


Breakfast 

Broiled  Bacon.    Com  Meal  Muffin: 

Hot  Apple  Sauce 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Creain-of-<^elery  Soiq> 

Cheese  Pudding 

(bread,  cheese,  milk,  1  egg) 

Cabbage  Salad 

Cottage  Pudding  (reheated) 

Chocolate  Sauce 

Half  Ciqjs  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Baked  Potatoes,  Butter 

Smoked  Fish,  Toasted 

Chocolate  Cookies.     Tea 


Break&st 

Sausage,  Apple  Sauce 

Buckwheat  Cakes 

Bread  and  Butter.    Coffee.    Cocoa 

Dinner 
Cold  Corned  Beef.  Sliced  Thin 
Cold  Spinach,  Molded. 
Salad  Dressing 
Baked  or  Mashed  Potatoes 
Diced  Turnips  in  Cream  Sauce 
.^>ple  Pie.    Half  Cxxps  of  Cofifee 

Snqpper 

Mock  Bisque  Soup,  Croutons 

Baking  Powder  Biscuit 

Stewed  Peaches  (dried) 

Tea 


<  I 
Q 

PC 

< 


Breakfast 

Gluten  Grits,  Hot  Dates.  Thin  Cream 

Com  Meal  Muffins  (reheated) 

Coffee 

Dinn^ 

Stewed  Chicken  (half  chicken) 

Hot  Baking  Powder  Biscuit 

Scalloped  Cabbage 

Apple  Tapioca  Pudding 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Siqypear 

Stewed  Lima  Beans  (dried) 

Bread  and  Butter 

Baked  Sweet  Apples 

Cookies 

Tea 


Breakfast 

Cereal,  Top  Milk 

Broiled  Bacon,  Baked 
Potatoes 

Fried  Mush,  Caramel 
Syrup 

Co5ee 


Dinner 

ShcMlder  ::  l:i": 

:. 

r:      .^'"""-^  ■         ^ 

Swee: 
Bake 

"s 

Breakfast 

Wheat  Cereal,  Thin  Cream 

Corned  Beef-and-Potato  Hash  with 

Green  or  Red  Pepper 

Dry  Toast.        Coffee 

Dmncf 

Large  Fillets  of  Haddock,  Baked,  Caper 

or  Pickle  Sauce.     Bread  Dressing  3 

Mashed  Potatoes.     Cole  Slaw  > 

Rice  Pudding  with  Raisins  i|   »< 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Hot  Rye  Meal  or  Graham  Mumns 

Gingerbread.     Apple  Sauce 

Cottage  Cteese.     Cocoa 


Supper 


ee 


Tea 


243 


Formal  Meals  For  December 


Christmas  Spreads  for  Children  of  School  Age  (one  o'clock) 


Lamb  Broth  with  Rice  and  Peas 
Roast  Chickens,  Cranberry  Sauce 
Mashed  Potatoes 
Creamed  Celery- 
Rolls 
Vanilla  Ice  Cream 
Sponge  Rusks.  Marshmallows  Glac^ 


II 

Salpicon  of  Oranges-and-Pineapple  (canned) 

in  Glass  Cups 

Roast  Turkey,  Cranberry  Sauce 

Sweet  Potatoes,  Southern  Style 

Lettuce,  French  Dressing 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream,  Strawberry  Sauce 

(Bonbons  to  take  home) 


Formal  Dinner 


I 


Grape-fruit  Cocktail 
Christmas  Consomm^ 
Oyster  Patties 
Roast  Fillet  of  Beef,  Bernaise  Sauce 
Brussels  Sprouts 
French  Fried  Potatoes  (balls) 
Roman  Punch 
Mayonnaise  of  Chicken-and-Celery 
(Pimento  Garnish) 
Peaches  Melba 
Marrons  Glacd,  Candied  Mint  Leaves 
CofTee 


II 


Anchovy  Eclairs 

Consomm^  k  la  Royale 

Truffled  Fish  Mousse, 

Hollandaise  Sauce 

Hot  House  Cucumbers, 

French  Dressing  with  Onion  Juice 

Roast  Goose,  Apple  Sauce 

Mashed  Potatoes 

Brussels  Sprouts 

Tomato  Cream  Glace 

Frozen  Pudding 

Peppermints.     Nuts.     Coffee 


High  Tea  or  Supper 


I 


II 


Oyster  Soup 

Olives.     Gherkins 

[Cold  Roast  Turkey,  Breast,  Sliced  Thin 

Rice  Croquettes  en  Surprise 

(rice  unsweetened,   currant  jelly  in   center) 

Celery-and-Apple  Salad,  Waldorf 

Frozen  Eggnog 

Macaroons.  Coffee 


Scalloped  Oysters 

Olives 

Salted  Nuts 

Yeast  Biscuit 

Chicken  Salad  or  Apple-and-Nut  Salad 

Christmas  Baskets 

(with  Whipped  Cream) 

Coffee 


III 

Consomm^ 

Cold  Roast  Chicken 

Tomato    Jelly    with    Celery-and-Nut    Salad 

Parker  House  Rolls  (reheated) 

Christmas  Cake 

Cocoa,  Whipped  Cream 

244 


Appertaining  to  Our  Christmas  Dainties 

By  Janet  M  Hill 


Something  About  Soup 

SOMETHING  good  to  eat  cannot 
be  evolved  out  of  nothing,  still 
there  are  cooks  who  have  a 
knack  of  making  more  palatable  food 
out  of  little  stores  than  many  others 
out  of  an  abundance  of  the  choicest 
supplies.  Take,  for  instance,  soup. 
Meats  rich  in  juice  and  flavor  will  not 
yield  a  savorv'  broth,  if  the  cooking 
be  at  too  high  a  temperature.  To 
make  a  good  soup,  one  must  fully 
understand  the  fundamental  principles 
of  cookery,  and  be  wilUng  to  give  time 
and  attention  to  the  dish  while  the 
process  of  cooking  is  going  on. 

Often,  at  this  season,  fowls  of  doubt- 
ful age  are  steamed  or  parboiled  before 
roasting,  and  when  this  is  carefully 
done  the  dish  is  a  success.  But  the 
cook  says,  with  this  broth,  I  should 
have  a  good  soup;  hence,  salt  and 
pepper  are  added,  possibly  soup  vege- 
tables are  cooked  in  the  broth,  and  the 
soup  is  served.  Once  more  the  family 
are  convinced  that  they  do  not  like 
soup.  This  chicken-flavored  water 
should  have  been  a  valuable  asset  in 
the  week's  supplies,  but  it  did  not 
contain  enough  food  value  or  flavor 
to  warrant  its  presentation  as  a  finished 
dish. 

We  often  are  deficient  in  standards. 
Our  sense  of  taste  should  be  something 
of  a  guide,  but  our  tastes  must  be 
cultivated.  When  we  have  the  solu- 
ble properties  of  a  pound  of  meat, 
of  which  not  more  than  one-fourth  is 
bone,  extracted  in  a  pint  of  water  at 
the  simmering  point,  augmented  or 
not  by  the  flavor  of  soup  vegetables 
and  spices,  we  have  a  soup  that  needs 
no  further  enrichment  and  may  even 
be  diluted.  Taking  this  for  a  guide  or 
standard,    we   must    look    about    for 

245 


means  to  enrich  the  flavored  water 
and  provide  a  soup  that  will  be  relished. 
Yolks  of  eggs,  cream  and  milk  will  add 
nutriment,  so  also  will  rice  or  corn- 
starch. Xo  one  of  these  adds  much 
flavor;  and  this  must  be  secured  by 
celer}',  onions,  carrot  and  green  or 
dried  herbs.  If  this  weak  broth  be 
made  from  lamb  or  beef,  a  little  beef 
extract  will  reinforce  the  soup,  and 
with  these  broths  is  preferable  to  cream, 
milk  or  eggs. 

For  a  company  meal  a  "clear"  soup 
is  the  choicest  offering  in  soups.  Cook 
books  quite  generally,  we  might  say 
alwa3-s,  allow  one  white  of  egg  with 
the  crushed  shell  to  clarify  a  quart  of 
soup,  but  three  eggs  to  two  quarts  of 
broth  will  be  found  more  economical 
in  the  end,  for  if  the  operation  be 
carefully  conducted,  no  danger  of 
being  obHged  to  repeat  the  process 
will  arise.  For  straining  the  soup,  a 
linen  napkin  (too  much  worn  for  table 
use)  is  preferable  to  doubled  cheese 
cloth. 

Pastry  and  Pies 

Beginning  with  the  Thanksgiving 
dinner,  when  the  homely,  but  truly 
delectable,  pumpkin  pie  holds  the  place 
of  honor  in  the  dessert  course,  and 
continuing  through  the  holiday  season, 
pastry  and  pies  are  given  much  promi- 
nence in  bills  of  fare.  Mince  pie,  rich 
with  oriental  spices  and  fruits,  is  con- 
sidered the  one  pie  especially  appro- 
priate to  the  Christmas  season,  but 
meat  pies,  tarts,  patties  of  all  sorts, 
and  many  diversities  in  puff-paste 
aboimd. 

Most  housekeepers  take  pride  in 
making  good  pastry.  In  this  work 
experience  counts  for  much,  but  the 
abiHty  to  use  a  rolling  pin  lightly  does 
not  always  come  with  experience,  and 


246 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


this  it  is  that  makes  or  mars  the  paste. 
Fat  makes  tender,  water  a  tough,  paste, 
then  be  generous  of  shortening  and 
sparing  of  water.  In  puff-paste  an 
equal  weight  of  flour  and  shortening  is 
called  for.  For  plain  paste  the  weight 
of  the  shortening  should  equal,  at  least, 
half  the  weight  of  the  flour.  Lengthy 
descriptions  of  making  puff-paste,  in 
which  chilhng  between  pans  of  water 
and  broken  ice  three  or  four  times  dur- 
ing the  process  is  directed,  are  often 
seen.  In  some  schools  a  rolling  pin 
filled  with  broken  ice  is  recommended. 
Neither  of  these  procedures  are  practi- 
cable or  useful.  They  are  inventions 
of  the  amateur,  unused  to  handling 
utensils;  they  make  work  rather  than 
spare  it.  A  cool  place  in  which  to 
work  is  a  necessity.  If  cool  air  from 
an  open  window  can  circulate  over  the 
board,  as  is  possible  early  in  the  morn- 
ing or  at  any  time  of  day  during  the 
winter,  the  w^hole  process,  from  start 
to  finish,  can  be  completed,  with  no 
interruption  for  chilling,  in  twenty 
minutes.  This  is  for  half  a  pound  of 
paste.  A  recipe  for  such  paste  will  be 
found  among  the  Seasonable  Recipes 
in  this  number  of  the  magazine. 

In  making  plain  paste,  the  quantity 
of  shortening  should  var}^  somewhat 
with  the  variety  of  filling  that  is  to 
accompany  it.  A  filling  of  mince  meat 
containing  much  suet  does  not  call  for 
a  very  rich  crust,  though  an  upper 
crust  of  puff-paste  is  often  used,  but 
the  pastry  to  be  used  with  an  acid 
filling,  like  cranberry,  rhubarb  or 
lemon,  should  be  even  richer  than  that 
for  an  apple  or  berry  pie.  One  cup  of 
shortening  (8  oz.)  will  be  none  too 
much  to  three  cups  (12  oz.)  of  flour. 

Shoulder  of  Pork,  Roasted 

For  the  sake  of  tradition  we  should 
have  been  glad  to  present  in  our 
Christmas  number  an  illustration  of  a 
boar's  head,  roasted,  but  only  a  few 
venturesome  cooks  would  take  the 
trouble  to  prepare  such  a  roast,  and 


there  is,  too,  some  doubt  in  our  own 
mind  as  to  the  gastronomic  qualities 
of  the  dish.  In  its  stead  we  have  given 
the  plebeian  shoulder  of  a  young  porker, 
roasted.  This  is  comparatively  an  in- 
expensive roast,  tender  when  well 
bred  and  carefully  cooked,  and,  on 
account  of  size,  well  adapted  to  a  small 
family.  SHces  may  be  cut  to  good 
advantage  on  both  sides  of  the  shank 
bone.  The  edible  trimmings,  chopped 
flne,  are  good  either  alone  or  with  beef 
as  mince  pie  meat  or  hash.  A  cabbage 
salad  to  serve  with  roast  pork  is  the 
better  for  a  little  mustard ;  a  green  or 
red  pepper,  shredded  or  chopped  fine, 
is  also  a  welcome  addition,  while  apple 
sauce  of  some  variety  is  considered  in- 
dispensable. For  a  change,  try  cook- 
ing the  sliced  apples  with  the  sugar, 
for  a  long  time  in  the  oven,  in  a  closed 
earthen  receptacle. 

Frozen  Eggnog 
The  recipe  for  frozen  eggnog  is 
given  in  answer  to  a  request  for  this 
dish.  We  have  given  it  as  a  dessert 
dish  in  one  or  more  of  the  menus. 
Eggnog,  frozen  or  unfrozen,  is  a 
nutritious  stimulant  and  a  restorative, 
and  while  it  is  considered  a  choice 
dessert  dish,  it  is  best  adapted  for 
service  at  a  light  meal  of  few  courses, 
or  when  nourishment  in  an  attractive 
form  is  needed  between  meals. 

Salads  and  Salad  Dressings 

A  simple  salad  is  a  grateful  accom- 
paniment to  the  roasts  and  heavy  meat 
dishes  commonly  served  at  this  season. 
Thus  the  simpler  the  salad  be  the 
better  it  will  fit  the  occasion.  At 
luncheon  or  supper,  when  the  salad 
may  be  desired  for  its  food  value,  a 
mayonnaise  dressing  is  admirable.  In 
making  this,  the  method  which  was 
originally  given  in  this  magazine,  and 
which  does  away  with  all  liability  of  a 
curdled  mixture,  is  again  called  to  the 
attention  of  our  readers.  Beat  the 
yolk  or  yolks  of  eggs  and  the  season- 


PARISIAN  CHEAP  RESTAURANTS 


247 


ings,  then  beat  in  all  the  acid  to  be 
used  in  the  dressing,  and  at  once  begin 
to  add  the  oil  by  the  teaspoonful, 
shortly  increasing  the  quantity  to 
a  tablespoonful.  Use  an  egg  beater 
from  start  to  finish.  Once  tried  no 
other  method  will  thereafter  be  em- 
ployed. 

Candy  Making  and  Icings 
In  boiUng  sugar  and  water  for  icing, 
fondant  or  other  smooth  candy,  no 
form  of  acid  to  break  the  grain  is 
needed,  if  proper  care  be  taken  at  the 
beginning  of  the  operation.  Of  course, 
the  sugar  may  be  stirred  while  it  is 
melting;  this  being  accompHshed,  set 
the  dish  over  a"  quick  fire,  wash  down 
the   sides,   to   remove   grains  of  sugar 


thrown  there  by  the  rapid  boiling,  then 
put  on  a  close-fitting  cover  and  let 
boil  three  or  four  minutes,  to  insure 
the  melting  of  any  stray  grains  of 
sugar.  Set  in  the  thermometer  and 
let  the  syrup  boil  to  240^*  Fahr.  or  until 
when  tested  in  cold  water  a  soft  ball 
may  be  formed.  With  care  a  thermome- 
ter will  last  a  lifetime,  and  by  its  use 
all  uncertainty  of  results  is  eliminated. 
In  making  candy  of  the  fudge  variety, 
the  cooling  of  the  cooked  syrup  before 
beginning  to  beat  it  gives  a  more 
creamy  and  satisfactory  product.  If 
a  boiled  frosting  runs  from  the  cake, 
return  it  in  a  saucepan  to  the  fire, 
either  on  an  asbestos  mat  or  in  a 
double  boiler,  and  beat  with  a  spoon 
constantly  until  the  frosting  thickens. 


Ch 


r  1  s  t  m  a  s 


By  Lalia  Mitchell 


Have  you  heard  the  Christmas  music 

Sounding  over  hill  and  plain? 
Have  you  listened  to  t^e  music 

That  should  never  come  in  vain? 
Glory,  praise  and  honor  ever 

Unto  God  who  reigns  above, 
And  to  those  on  earth  who  journey 

Peace,  good  will  and  boundless  love. 


Have  you  seen  the  Christmas  holly 

Flaming  forth  on  every  side? 
Has  your  heart  grown  strangely  lighter 

For  the  green  of  Christmastide? 
Has  it  thrilled  you  with  its  message, 

Glory  to  the  Lord  and  King, 
And  good  will  to  every  brother? 

This  the  tidings  it  should  bring. 


Have  you  caught  the  Christmas  spirit 

Wafted  by  on  every  breeze? 
Christ  is  bom  to  rule  forever. 

Lord  of  earth  and  sky  and  seas. 
Glory  unto  Him,  and  honor 

Now  and  evermore,  Amen. 
And  throughout  a  Christian  kingdom, 

Peace  on  earth,  good  will  to  men. 


Parisian  Cheap  Restaurants 

By  Frances  B.  Sheafer 


THERE  is  probably  no  city  on 
earth  which  possesses  more  good, 
cheap  restaurants  than  Paris, 
establishments  where  it  is  possible  for 
a  person  of  epicurean  tastes  to  satisfy 


his  hunger  at  a  very  trifling  cost.  The 
French  capital  is  singularly  qualified 
to  provide  a  cuisine  a  hon  marchS,  for 
the  French  people  have  long  considered 
cooking  as  a  fine  art,  and  economy  as 


24S 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


a  virtue.  Therefore  cheap  food  in 
France  is  by  no  means  poor  food,  quite 
ati  contra  ire,  for  the  proprietor  of  a 
French  bourgeoise  restaurant  is  every 
bit  as  anxious  to  supply  his  patrons 
mth  a  good  dinner  at  a  moderate  price 
as  his  patrons  can  possibly  be  to  secure 
such  a  repast;  and  it  is  needless  to 
add  that,  all  other  things  being  equal, 
patronage  goes  where  the  best  is  to 
be  had  for  the  least  money. 

So  the  choice  of  respectable,  reason- 
able eating  places  is  large.  You  have 
only  to  learn  where  the)^  are  situated, 
and  then  you  can  make  an  etude  com- 
parative of  their  several  advantages 
and  specialities. 

For  the  purposes  of  this  writing  it  is 
not  necessary  to  mention  others  than 
those  frequented  by  EngHsh-speaking 
residents  of  Paris,  those  providing 
presumably  menus  entirely  acceptable 
to  English  and  American  tastes.  Natu- 
rally enough,  these  restaurants  with  a 
specialized  clientele  are  to  be  found  in 
the  quarter  where  the  students  have 
elected  to  live.  In  Paris  there  are  two 
so-called  American  colonies,  that  emi- 
nentty  respectable  and  somewhat  pre- 
tentious district  which  surrounds  the 
Arc  du  Triomphe,  and  the  quarter  to 
the  south  of  the  Luxembourg  Gardens 
which  is  traversed  by  the  Boulevard 
Montpamasse,  a  thoroughfare  familiarly 
nicknamed  the  Boulevard  des  Ameri- 
caines,  —  note  the  feminine! 

The  residents  of  the  Etoile  district 
are  not  much  given  to  taking  their 
meals  at  restaurants,  except  on  special 
occasions  when  they  wish  to  fete  a 
visitor,  and  then  they  go  to  the  more 
elegant  caf^s  Hke  La  Rue,  the  Cafe  de 
Paris,  Marguery's,  or,  if  they  do  venture 
over  to  the  Rive  Gauche,  it  is  to  intro- 
duce their  visitor  to  Frederic's  ducks. 

There  are  no  restaurants,  therefore, 
belonging  by  right  of  selection  especially 
to  this  set  of  Americans.  Besides,  as  a 
rule,  the  Etoile  colony  is  not  interested 
in  saving  money,  in  order  that  they 
may  stay  over  in  Paris  a  few  months 


longer.  That  is  an  ambition  peculiar 
to  the  student  quarter;  for  whatever 
is  the  charm  of  this  French  city,  it 
claims  every  single  one  of  the  students 
after  a  stay  of  any  time  here.  One 
wonders  sometimes  why,  since  their 
life  here  is  so  distinctly  un-French, 
since  they  live  and  work  and  play, 
each  in  his  little  set,  and  alwa3^s  among 
his  or  her  own  country  people. 

However,  they  like  the  life  of  their 
quarter,  a  life  with  no  exacting  social 
standards  to  interfere  with  their  pursuit 
of  a  pleasurable  occupation,  where  they 
may  do  their  chosen  work  undisturbed 
by  conflicting  outside  interests.  They 
like,  too,  the  smack  of  Bohemianism, 
albeit  harmless  enough,  which  they  get 
by  eating,  here  and  there,  in  the  restau- 
rants, the  restaurants  whose  proprietors 
have  been  keen  enough  to  sense  their 
needs,  and  canny  enough  to  supply 
them.. 

There  are  a  dozen  cheap  restaurants 
in  the  Montparnasse  district,  at  any 
one  of  which  quite  a  good  dinner  may 
be  had  for  less  than  1.50  francs,  includ- 
ing the  two  sous  as  tip.  That  is  thirty 
cents,  all  told,  in  American  money. 
I  do  not  know  that  this  dinner  is  more 
abundant  than  a  meal  at  a  similar 
price  would  be  in  America,  but  it  is 
certainly  more  appetizing  and  it  is 
served  in  an  establishment  that  has 
"character."  There  is  the  keynote  of 
the  popularity  of  these  little  cafe 
restaurants.  And  however  these  stu- 
dents discover  and  define  this  indefin- 
able quality  it  would  be  hard  to  say, 
but  the  moment  the  rumor  gets  about 
that  a  place  has  "character,"  that 
establishment  becomes  the  popular 
eating  rendezvous  of  the  moment. 
When  and  how  it  loses  its  "character," 
when  the  vogue  changes,  is  another 
m^'stery.  Perhaps  "character"  is  only 
a  student's  S3^nonym  for  personality, 
and  the  personality  may  be  that  of 
either  the  cook  or  the  proprietor, 
sometimes  even  of  both  combined.  I 
know  of  one  such  case  any^'-ay,  not. 


PARISIAN  CHEAP  RESTAURANTS 


249 


however,  in  the  American  student 
district,  but  on  the  edge  of  the  old 
Latin  Quarter.  There,  under  the 
shadow  of  the  Institut,  is  a  Httle  restau- 
rant, formerly  kept  by  a  fat,  clean, 
French-Swiss,  and  his  fat,  clean  wife. 
The  gar^on  was  the  brother  of  the 
proprietor,  and,  though  not  as  fat,  he 
was  every  bit  as  clean  and  even  more 
obliging.  Who  first  discovered  this 
little  place  I  have  never  known,  but 
it  so  happened  that  it  became  the 
favorite  luncheon  ground  of  a  small 
group  of  students,  who  found  that  it 
possessed  "character,"  and  who  were 
willing,  therefore,  to  dispense  with  a 
tablecloth  and  eat  on  a  marble  table, 
flanked  by  a  seller  of  old  books 
from  the  quays  and  a  dusty  street 
cleaner  who  left  his  implements  at  the 
door. 

Probably  no  French  person  of  the 
class  of  these  students  would  have 
found  these  individuals  "types"  as  did 
the  American  and  English  habitues. 
Still  despite  the  democratic  mixture  of 
its  patrons,  the  food  at  Martin's  was 
exceedingly  good  for  the  money.  I 
have  seen  no  more  luscious  fruit,  to  cite 
one  instance,  in  the  expensive  restau- 
rants of  the  Grand  Boulevards,  than 
Pere  Martin  offered  his  clients  for 
dessert.  Then,  too,  it  is  agreeable  to 
be  welcomed  genially  as  guests  when 
you  are  spending  a  matter  of  perhaps 
twenty  cents  for  your  lunch.  Pere 
Martin  on  one  memorable  occasion 
served  this  student  society  a  never-to- 
be-forgotten  dinner  in  his  salle  de  noces, 
at  two  francs  per  person,  and  in  order 
to  make  the  event  more  festive,  he 
"offered"  them  a  special  bottle  of  so- 
called  Burgundy,  the  opening  of  which 
was  a  solemn  ceremony,  followed  by 
the  drinking  of  healths,  a  rite  in  which 
everybody  participated,  including  Pere 
Martin,  Mere  Martin  and  the  gar^on- 
brother,  Adolph.  It  may  be  mentioned, 
in  passing,  that  that  was  the  only 
solemn  moment  in  an  otherwise  success- 
fully hilarious  evening. 


Well,  in  due  course,  Pere  Martin  was 
forced  to  return  to  his  native  Switzer- 
land, because  of  Mere  Martin's  disquiet- 
ing ill-health,  the  restaurant  has 
changed  hands,  and  the  "character" 
is  gone.  It  is  no  longer  a  students' 
rendezvous,  but  a  plain,  workingmen's 
eating  house,  without  interest  and 
without  charm. 

It  may ,  also ,  happen  that ' '  character '  * 
alone  will  keep  a  place  going.  There 
is  the  cremerie  of  Josephine,  for 
example,  in  the  Luxembourg  quarter. 
Josephine  is  an  irascible  old  person, 
who  has  conducted  her  small  establish- 
ment for  a  score  of  years.  She  adver- 
tises American  and  English  cooking, 
and  she  never  fails  to  serve  plum 
pudding  at  Christmas  time,  but  her 
menu  offers  little  variety,  her  charges 
are  a  trifle  higher  than  elsewhere,  and 
the  service,  which  she  "makes"  herself, 
is  interminable.  Still  she  has  her  regu- 
lar patrons,  who  meet  in  her  shabby 
little  salle  and  bavard  while  they  wait 
for  their  food  to  be  cooked  in  the 
kitchen,  where  Josephine  disappears 
after  she  has  taken  their  orders. 

Every  one  recounts  some  anecdote  of 
Josephine,  in  this  interval.  I  am  told 
that  she  once  put  a  placard  in  her 
window  reading,  "English  Spoken," 
and  when  a  hardy  visitor,  having 
addressed  her  in  English,  which  lan- 
guage, of  course,  she  did  not  understand, 
asked  her  in  great  exasperation  who 
spoke  the  English  there,  she  replied 
serenely,  "The  people  who  come." 
Well,  that  is  Josephine.  She  is  quite 
capable  of  having  conceived  and  ex- 
ecuted that  plan.  And  her  cHents 
forgive  her  her  crotchets  and  their  own 
inconvenience  because  she  has  "char- 
acter." 

Then  there  is  Henriette's,  which  is 
less  an  individual  than  an  institution. 
Henriette's  began  as  a  very  small  and 
very    cheap   cremerie. 

There  is  Garnier's,  another  ex- 
panded cremerie,  now  a  restaurant; 
and    Boudet's   and   Jouvin's   and   the 


250 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


White  Cat,  all  of  them  charging  pretty 
much   the   same   prices. 

By  a  careful  process  of  selection, 
an  average  dinner  may  be  had 
for  about  one  franc  twenty-five  or 
one  franc  fifty.  No  one  ever  gives 
more  than  ten  centimes  or  two  cents 
as  a  tip  in  any  of  these  restaurants, 
and  the  cost  of  service  is  diminished 
by  the  practice  among  the  students  of 
dining  for  a  week  in  each  restaurant, 
thus  saving  the  charge  for  a  fresh 
napkin  each  meal.  If  you  pay  two 
sous  for  a  napkin  the  beginning  of  the 
week,  you  are  given  a  napkin  ring  in 
which  your  personal  serviette  is  kept 
and  filed  away  in  a  stand  after  each 
dinner.  A  student  who  would  scorn 
this  little  economy  at  home  practises 
it  openly  and  boastingly  here  in 
Paris. 

Some  of  the  restaurants  have,  of 
course,  their  regular  patrons  who  never 
change,  who  use  their  eating  place  as 
they  would  a  pension  and  who  arrange 
to  meet  their  special  circle  of  friends 
every  evening  at  seven,  in  order  to 
report  the  day's  doings  and  to  plan  the 
evening's  entertainment.  It  is  an  easy, 
and  it  seems  to  be  a  satisfactory,  way 
to  live  the  student  life;  for  most  of 
them,  men  and  women,  have  their 
studios  or  their  tiny  apartments  and 
they  get  their  own  "little breakfasts," 
if  they  are  poor,  or  have  a  femnie  de 
menage  get  them,  if  they  are  more 
affluent.  They  prefer,  then,  to  take 
their  more  substantial  meals  elsewhere 
than  at  home,  as  much  because  it  is 
more  entertaining  as  because  it  is 
easier. 

On  the  outskirts  of  the  Montparnasse 
quarter  there  are  other  restaurants 
intermittently  popular  for  one  reason 
or  another.  Near  the  Gardens  is  a 
vegetarian  establishment  called  the 
Bonne  Sant^,  with  a  surprisingly  varied 
menu,  in  which  meat  is  studiously 
eliminated. 

Very  lately  a  Franco-Italian  restau- 
rant was  opened  near  the  Gare  Montpar- 


nasse, which  has  become  a  favorite 
Saturday-night  rendezvous  because  of 
its  Italian  dishes  and  the  exotic  flavor 
of  its  wines.  But  dinner  there  costs 
at  least  two  francs,  and  that  is  not  to 
be  thought  of  for  every  day.  By  way 
of  variety,  the  students  go  now  and 
then  to  Thirion's. 

For  years  Thirion's  has  subsisted  on 
a  myth,  which  has  it  that  during  his 
student  days  Thackeray  dined  there. 
It  is  possible,  but  it  might  also  have 
been  anywhere  else  in  the  quarter. 
But  it  doesn't  really  matter.  The 
essential  thing  is  now  that  its  reputa- 
tion is  made,  this  restaurant  serves  as 
a  specialty  an  excellent  Chateaubriand 
with  some  delicious  potato  straws,  and 
all  for  seventy-five  centimes,  fifteen 
cents  in  our  money.  This  establish- 
ment is  much  frequented  by  the 
students  of  the  Beaux  Arts. 

So  the  vogue  goes.  It  is  seldom 
enough  that  a  once  popular  house 
suffers  the  fate  of  the  Cafe  Martin,  for 
things  are  traditional  in  Paris,  and  you 
experience  a  fine  sense  of  security  in 
coming  back  here  for  successive  stays, 
knowing  that  you  may  count  on  mak- 
ing your  accustomed  tour  of  all  the 
places  you  have  ever  sampled,  and 
getting  here  baked  sw^eet  potatoes,  and 
there  a  particularly  good  poulet,  or 
elsewhere  a  golden  potiron  soup  unlike 
any  to  be  had  anywhere  else.  Well, 
there  is  a  fascination  in  all  this  experi- 
menting, and  it  is  a  practical  pleasure 
too;  for,  after  all, one  must  eat,  and  we 
might  as  well  make  the  business  as 
amusing  as  possible.  Then,  too,  it  costs 
so  little  here,  and  it  does  add  to  the 
zest  of  the  game  to  "stalk"  a  square 
meal,  a  really  satisfying  repast,  at  a 
price  we  would  never  expect  to  get  it 
for  at  home. 

We  may  squander  what  we  have 
saved  on  some  foolish  extravagance 
afterward,  but  we  have  meanwhile 
begun  to  learn  some  of  the  first  prin- 
ciples of  an  economy  none  too  common 
among  our  country  people. 


HOME  IDEAS 

AND 

ECONOMIES 


Contributions  to  this  department  will  be  gladly  received.     Accepted  items  will  be 
paid  for  at  reasonable  rates. 


New  Ventures  in  Bread  Making 

MOST  families  eat  but  one  kind  of 
bread  or  that  made  from  the 
whitest  flour.  This  is  not  nearly 
as  bad  a  habit  as  some  of  the  food 
reformers  have  tried  in  years  past  to 
make  out,  because  the  experts  in  nu- 
trition now  find  that  a  greater  per  cent 
of  white  bread  is  assimilated  than  of 
the  coarser  kinds  variously  called  bran 
bread,  Graham,  whole  wheat,  hygienic, 
etc.  While  a  perfect  loaf  made  from 
white  flour  deserves  its  place  as  a 
leader  in  breads,  there  are  other  kinds 
which  give  that  variety  to  food  needed 
to  keep  a  good  appetite.  It  is  well 
known,  however,  that  white  bread  is 
the  only  kind  of  which  we  really  never 
tire,  and,  while  this  is  true  now,  doubt- 
less, the  same  could  have  been  said 
of  the  "rye  and  injun"  loaf  a  hundred 
years  ago.  What  we  are  brought  up  to 
eat  we  generally  like  to  the  end  of  our 
days,  and  this  fact  is  emphasized  in 
bread,  whether  it  be  com  pone,  salt 
rising  bread  or  the  thick  crusted 
French  roll. 

High-priced  foods  incite  search  for 
new  edibles  that  are  not  so  rare  as  to 
be  expensive.  The  laboratory  where 
bread  is  made  and  baked  in  the  United 
States  Department  of  Agrictdture  is 
an  interesting  place  to  the  house- 
keeper, and  in  a  recent  visit  I  was 
impressed  more  than  ever  with  what 
is  being  done  by  the  govemment,'con- 
ceming  all  kinds  of  foods,  to  help  both 
the  one  who  provides  the  raw  material 


and  the  other  who  prepares  it  for  the 
table.  The  bread  exhibit  on  that  day 
was  even  more  interesting  than  the 
usual  contributions  at  agricultural 
fairs.  The  loaves  were  baked  in 
narrow  tins,  much  deeper  than  those 
used  in  the  home  kitchen,  and  this 
shape  gives  a  good  amoimt  of  crust, 
which  is  an  essential  to  good  bread. 
The  white,  unbleached  flour  bread  was 
tested  first  and  its  creamy  tint  is  surely 
more  appetizing  than  the  dazzHng 
white  loaf.  Most  people,  in  the  cities 
at  least,  now  seem  to  prefer  it,  as  they 
have  learned  the  reasons  for  bleaching 
flour  and  the  disadvantages  in  its  use. 

Xext  came  a  yellowish  brown  loaf, 
agreeable  to  the  taste,  reminding  me 
strongly  of  the  brown  bread  eaten  in 
my  childhood  days  and  which  was 
baked  slowly  in  a  large  pan  in  a  wood 
stove  oven.  This  loaf  was  made  of 
fifty  per  cent  cotton-seed  flour,  which 
contains  thirty-seven  per  cent  more 
protein  than  wheat  flour  or  about 
sixteen  and  a  half  per  cent.  As  pro- 
tein is  the  costly  element  in  food,  and 
meat,  which  we  eat  largely  to  get  this 
element,  is  almost  out  of  reach  for 
average  families,  it  is  pleasing  to  find 
a  cheap  food  material  containing  a 
good  amount  of  it. 

A  third  loaf  in  this  exhibit  coniaining 
a  portion  of  ground  peanuts  was  not 
satisfactory,  although  it  looked  much 
like  whole  wheat  bread.  The  sickly 
green  cnmib  of  the  loaf  made  with  soy- 
bean meal  gave  warning  to  sample  it 


251 


252 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


daintily.  Although  this  bread  was 
light  and  baked  with  a  good  crust,  it 
had  a  raw  bean  taste  and  no  suggestion 
of  the  rich  flavor  of  beans  baked  many 
hours.  Alfalfa  meal  is  a  disappoint- 
ment, that  is,  if  there  ever  were  any 
real  expectations  that  it  could  enter 
into  human  food.  A  hay  flavor  lingers 
about  it  in  such  strength  that,  like  the 
soy-bean  meal,  a  famine  must  be 
imminent  before  man  would  eat  bread 
made  from  it. 

Rye  flour  or  meal  is  now  seldom  used 
in  home  bread-making,  except  as  one 
of  the  ingredients  of  steamed  brown 
bread.  However,  the  fashion  is  grow- 
ing of  eating  rye  bread  made  by 
German  bakers,  and  rye  sandwiches 
figure  on  chafing-dish  party  menus, 
and  sometimes  at  afternoon  teas. 
The  impression  is  common  that  raised 
rye  bread  must  be  hard  or  it  must  be 
sticky  and  not  worth  while  to  make; 
a  formula  has  been  worked  out  by 
which  a  light  bread,  of  corresponding 
moisture  to  wheat,  is  easily  made  in 
the  home  kitchen,  and  this  bread  is  well 
appreciated  by  those  who  are  fortunate 
enough  to  have  opportunity  to  eat  it. 

The  statement  is  sometimes  made 
that,  if  corn  was  as  good  as  wheat,  every 
one  would  be  eating  it  as  we  now  eat 
wheat.  Whether  this  would  be  true  or 
not,  it  is  a  fact  that,  in  the  southern 
sections  of  this  country,  corn  is  used  as 
a  substitute  for  wheat  just  as  in  the  old 
countries  rye  is  used  in  its  place.  If,  as 
Secretary  Wilson  has  predicted,  high- 
priced  wheat  would  drive  people  to 
com  and  rye  products,  it  would,  doubt- 
less, be  a  benefit  in  average  health  and 
not  a  general  calamity.  a.  e.   w. 

Open  New  Doors  at  Christmas-time 

CHRISTMAS,  sanely  considered,  is 
simply  our  best  opportunity  for 
making  others  happy;  and  it  may  be 
more  than  a  transient  happiness.     To 


give  a  friend  a  lift  in  his  or  her  own 
development,  to  widen  the  scope  of 
her  usefulness,  this  is  always  the 
greatest  thing  we  can  do  for  another. 

Christmas  is  the  presentation  time 
of  tangible  help;  the  time  for  our  study 
and  choice  must  come  before. 

For  this,  the  question  that  throws 
the  most  light  on  the  puzzle  is  not  so 
much,  "What  is  my  friend's  delight?" 
as,  "What  are  her  talents,  developed, 
latent  or  half-developed?" 

The  answer  will  largely  be  found  in 
how  she  spends  her  leisure  time;  not 
what  she  says  she  would  "like  to  do," 
but  what  she  does  do  when  free  to 
follow  her  own  wishes. 

And  the  gifts  which  promote  this 
chosen  work  will  do  more  than  add 
temporary  happiness;  they  add  skill 
and  efficiency,  and  sometimes  open 
new  doors  to  us  that  otherwise  would 
have  been  closed. 

Let  me  illustrate  with  a  story  from 
real  life: 

A  young  girl  in  a  well-to-do  home 
had  a  talent  for  china-painting  and 
spent  all  her  leisure  upon  it.  As  we 
know,  it  is  expensive  work;  so  while 
her  parents  gladly  gave  her  the  best 
instructors  and  furnished  all  needful 
material,  she  was  always  longing  for 
more  pieces  to  paint. 

Her  chums,  knowing  this,  formed 
the  habit  of  giving  her  on  Christmases 
and  birthdays  pretty  dishes  to  deco- 
rate, sometimes  "going  in  together" 
to  get  half  a  dozen  match  plates  of 
expensive  ware,  fish  or  chocolate  sets, 
or  cups  and  saucers.  Consequently 
her  collection  grew  to  splendid  and 
unusual  proportions. 

A  few  years  later  reverses  came,  and 
in  dire  necessity  the  family's  pride 
became  the  family's  salvation.  Many 
pieces  were  sold  at  fancy  prices,  and 
the  collection  secured  for  her  an  excel- 
lent position  as  art  teacher,  until  the 
chasm  of  adversity  had  been  bridged. 

"Without  my  friends'  gifts  the  dis- 
play   would    have    been    insignificant 


HOME  IDEAS  AND  ECONOMIES 


253 


indeed;  so  they  did  more  for  me  than 
they  dreamed  in  those  care-free  days," 
she  says,  cheerily. 

"Always  a  gift  that  grows"  is  the 
advice  of  a  wise  man,  and  I  would  add, 
yes,  literally  sometimes.  What  more 
seasonable  or  acceptable  to  a  flower- 
lover  than  bulbs  or  packets  of  choice 
seed?  And  seasons  hence  she  will  be 
still  dividing  with  the  flower-loving 
neighbors. 

For  one  who  delights  in  fancy  work  give 
fancywork  materials  (never  the  finished 
product),  if  it  be  nothing  more  than 
skeins  of  floss  or  a  bit  of  stamped  linen. 

Working  tools  of  the  latest  pattern 
are  as  good  for  grown-up  people  as  for 
boys  with  mechanical  genius.  A  girl 
I  used  to  know  delighted  in  her  large 
correspondence  and  her  ability  to  send 
interesting  letters,  but  her  penmanship 
was  always  scratchy  and  a  distress  to 
her,  until,  one  Christmas,  she  received 
a  soft-writing  gold  pen.  "Why,  what 
a  difference!  I  never  dreamed  how  it 
would  help!  Now  I  revel  in  writing!" 
she  exclaimed. 

A  girl  w*ho  sings  or  plays  never  has 
enough  sheet  music;  one  who  spends 
her  time  on  books  or  magazines  always 
cries  for  more;  one  who  prides  herself 
on  entertaining  will  be  delighted  with 
a  dozen  or  more  fancy  Japanese  lan- 
terns; a  kodak  fiend  wants  camera 
supplies;  the  artist  will  be  happy  over 
a  roll  of  pretty  studies;  the  sewing  girl, 
with  machine  "fixings";  the  house- 
keeper, with  pieces  of  aluminum  ware, 
rubber  gloves,  or  any  of  the  new 
housekeeping  devices,  expensive  or  in- 
expensive. 

Our  kindergarten  friends  continually 
clamor  for  a  child  to  be  given  con- 
structive toys,  not  the  finished  product 
that  can  only  be  destroyed  sooner  or 
later. 

The  idea  is  the  same  for  grown-up 
boys  and  girls.  The  gift-makers  ought 
to  specialize,  not  merely  in  order  to 
please  and  gratify  a  passing  whim  or 
vanity,  but  to  give  them  the  working 


tools  they  need  in  developing  their 
talents.  For  in  this  development  lie 
both  their  happiness  and  their  useful- 
ness, present  and  future. 

Ordinarily,  we  give  the  things  we 
like  or  think  they  ought  to  want.  But 
to  widen  the  scope  of  a  friend's  chosen 
field  of  endeavor  ever  so  little  and  to 
put  a  bit  more  joy  into  it,  this  is  to 
make  the  most  of  our  annual  oppor- 
tunity. L.  M.  c. 

Red  Chilli 

THIS  sight,  while  not  an  uncommon 
one  in  the  West,  always  arouses 
the  interest  of  tourists  in  Texas.  The 
green,  or  turning,  chilli  pods  are  strung 
upon  long,  heavy  twine,  forming  a 
thick  strand,  then  tied  together  at  the 
ends,  making  a  circle.  Dozens  of  these 
are  then  hung  upon  nails  or  wooden 
pegs,  and  allowed  to  remain  until  the 
sun  turns  all  a  rich,  dark  red,  and  also 
dries  them.  They  are  then  stored 
away  for  winter  use.  The  well-to-do 
families  have  their  own,  while  the 
poorer  often  buy  from  the  men  who 
drive  around  with  wagons  heaped  high 
with  chilli  for  sale;  but  most  families 
have  a  small  patch  of  ground  to  raise 
their  bit  of  chilli.  It  is  an  odd  and  a 
very  lovely  sight,  to  drive  along  the 
winding  streets,  and  see  row  after  row 
of  this  scarlet  against  the  dull  gray  of 
the  unplastered  adobe,  or  against  the 
ivory  whiteness  of  whitewashed  houses. 
Often  there  are  vines,  flowers  and  soft 
green  trees  in  the  yard,  making  a 
pleasing  picture,  and  one  not  soon 
forgotten.  e.  c.   l. 

*** 

Care  of  the  Flour  Bin 

OUERY  No.  1639  in  October  num- 
ber of  your  magazine,  asking  ex- 
planation of  the  cause  of  small  black 
bugs,  or  "flies"  (they  are  not  the 
common  house  fly)  appearing  in  flour, 
suggested  this  article  for  your  Home 
Ideas  department. 


254 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


Before  putting  in  new  flour,  thor- 
oughly clean  the  bin,  being  sure  that 
not  a  particle  of  the  old  flour  remains. 
If  one  of  the  tin  bins  is  used,  wash  it 
with  clean  water  and  ivory  soap. 
Great  care  must  be  taken  that  the  bin 
is  absolutely  dry  before  putting  in 
flour.  If  wooden  bins  be  used,  they 
must  be  cleaned  by  brushing  and  then 
airing. 

It  is  the  old  flour  left  in  the  bin,  even 
though  it  may  be  a  very  small  amount, 
that  causes  these  little  pests. 

When  flour  is  bought  in  paper  bags, 
it  is  well  to  look  carefully  in  the  creases 
of  the  paper  at  top  of  bag  before  un- 
tying, for  here  are  found  the  white 
flour  worms,  if  there  are  any  at  all,  and 
these  can  be  removed  without  their 
getting  into  the  flour.  But,  when  a  bag 
is  simply  opened  and  turned  into  a^bin, 
they  are  in  this  way  in  the  bottom, 
and  in  a  short  time  will  work  their  way 
all  through  the  flour.  f.   l.  m. 

*  ** 
Canned  Pears 

Select  ripe  but  firm  pears,  using  a 
wire  basket  to  scald;  dip  the  basket 
containing  the  pears  into  boiling  water 
and  lift  out  and  in  a  few  times,  taking 
care  not  to  scald  too  much ;  then  throw 
immediately  into  cold  water  to  cool; 
the  skins  will  rub  off,  leaving  the  pears 
smooth  and  firm;  return  to  cold  water 
to  remain  until  ready  to  cook.  Cook 
the  pears  as  soon  as  enough  are  pre- 
pared to  fill  two  or  three  jars.  Six  or 
seven  pears  of  good  size  will  fill  a  quart 
jar. 

Make  a  syrup  of  equal  parts  of  water 
and  sugar ;  let  come  to  a  boil ;  skin  and 
cut  the  pears  into  halves,  remove  cores 
and  cook  in  the  syrup  slowly  until 
clear,  then  can  and  seal  while  boiling 
hot  as  in  other  fruits.  K.  s.  mcp. 


Some  Current  Fads  at  Restaurants 

"1\  if" IX ED  grill"  is  a  favorite  order 
iVX  at  some  fashionable  restau- 
rants. Like  the  popular  club  sandwich, 
it  is  many  things  in  one  and  so  quite  a 
meal  in  itself.  A  large  blue  plate  is 
used  especially  for  serving  it.  In  the 
center  is  a  lamb  chop,  beside  it  are  two 
long  rashers  of  bacon,  a  broiled  tomato 
and  some  kidneys,  with  a  rich,  reddish 
sauce  flavored  with  wine.  Julienne 
potatoes  are  also  on  the  plate. 

A  novelty  in  ice  cream  simulates  as- 
paragus on  toast  with  a  hollandaise 
sauce.  The  toast  is  cake  which  has 
marks  on  it  made  with  a  salamander. 
Then  some  ice  cream,  colored  green  and 
flavored  with  pistachio  nuts  and  frozen 
in  the  shape  of  asparagus,  is  laid  on  it, 
and  a  rich,  cold  custard  sauce  flavored 
with  sherry  is  poured  over  it.  The 
resemblance  is  so  striking  as  to  make 
some  persons  stare  at  its  appearance 
for  dessert. 

Hothouse  and  California  grapes  are 
largely  used  in  fruit-salads.  One  re- 
cently enjoyed  contained  orange,  grape- 
fruit, peach,  banana,  apple  cut  in 
straws,  pineapple,  and  three  of  four 
colors  and  kinds  of  grapes,  white,  green, 
red  and  dark  blue.  A  French  dressing 
was  used,  and  Maraschino  cherries 
were  used  on  top. 

New  Olive  Dishes 

A  new  olive  dish  recently  seen  at  an 
exclusive  shop  is  of  cut  glass  in  the 
form  of  a  swan's  body  with  wings  and 
head  of  silver. 

Another  is  a  glass  boat,  with  prow 
and  stem  of  silver,  made  like  the  old 
Viking's  craft.  The  olive  fork  rests  in 
the  rowlocks.  j.  d.  c. 


THIS  department  is  for  the  benefit  and  free  use  of  our  subscribers.  Questions  relating 
to  recipes,  and  those  pertaining  to  cuHnary  science  and  domestic  economics  in 
general,  will  be  cheerfully  answered  by  the  editor.  Communications  for  this  department 
must  reach  us  before  the  first  of  the  month  preceding  that  in  which  the  answers  are  expected 
to  appear.  In  letters  requesting  answer  by  mail,  please  enclose  addressed  and  stamped 
envelope.  Foi*  menus  remit  $1.00.  Address  queries  to  Janet  M.  Hill,  editor,  Boston 
Cooking-School  Magazine,  372  Boylston  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


Query  1658.  —  "I  have  about  three 
quarts,  each,  of  ripe  cucumber  and  citron- 
melon  sweet  pickles,  which  are  not  sweet 
enough,  taste  too  strong  of  vinegar.  How 
can  I  improve  them? 

To  Make  Sweet  Pickles  Less  Acid 

Why  not  pour  off  the  vinegar,  discard 
a  Httle  of  it  and  add  sugar,  also  cinna- 
mon and  cloves  if  needed.  The  usual 
proportions  are  a  pint  of  vinegar  and 
about  three  and  a  half  pounds  of  sugar 
to  seven  pounds  of  fruit.  Three  quarts 
of  pickle  would  probably  weigh  about 
six  pounds. 


Query     1659.  —  "Recipe 
Muffins  for  family  of  three." 


for        Plain 


Plain  Muffins 

Sift  together  two  cups  of  sifted 
pastry  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one-fourth  a  cup  of  sugar,  and  two 
rounding  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  pow- 
der. Beat  one  egg;  add  three-fourths 
a  cup  of  milk  and  stir  into  the  dry 
ingredients;  lastly,  stir  in  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  melted  butter.  Bake  in  a 
hot  well-oiled  muffin  pan  about  twenty- 
five  minutes.  Half  the  recipe  may  be 
prepared,  using  either  the  white  or  the 
yolk  of  the  egg.  Vary  the  recipe  by- 
using  one  cup  of  the  flour  and  one  cup 
of  rye,  corn  meal  or  Graham  flour. 


Query     1660. 
Pumpkin  Pie." 


"The    Best    Recipe    for 


Pumpkin  Pie 

^    a     teaspoonful     of 

salt 
1      tablespoonful     of 

ginger 
1  cup  of  rich  milk 
^  a  cup  of  cream 


IJ    cups    of    cooked 

pumpkin  (sifted) 
f  a  cup  of  sugar 
2     tablespoonfuls     of 

molasses 
1   egg  and   1   yolk  of 

To  the  prepared  pumpkin  add  the 
sugar,  molasses,  well-beaten  eggs,  salt 
and  ginger  and  mix  thoroughly;  then 
add  the  milk  and  cream.  Bake  in  a 
deep  pan  lined  with  pastry  about  half 
an  hour. 


Query  1661.  —  "Recipe  for  Fig  Layer 
Cake  and,  also,  other  recipes  for  using  cooked 
figs." 

Fig  Layer  Cake  (Plain) 


I  a  cup  of  butter 

1  cup  of  sugar 

2  eggs 

^  a  cup  of  milk 
^    a    teaspoonful 
soda 


of 


1  slightly  rounding 
teaspoonful  of 
cream  of  tartar 

IJ  cups  of  flour 


Bake  in  two  layers. 

Fig   Filling 


^  a  lb.  of  figs 

J    a    cup    of    boiling 

water 
I  a  cup  of  sugar 


^  a  lemon,  juice  and 

grated  rind 
2    tablespoonfuls    of 

sherry  wine 


Cook  the  figs  with  the  water  until 
they  are  soft  and  the  water  is  evapo- 


256 


256 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


rated;  chop  the  figs,  add  the  sugar, 
lemon  juice  and  rind  and  cook  to  a 
smooth  paste;  add  the  wine,  this  may 
be  omitted,  and  use  as  a  filling  between 
the  la3^ers.  Sprinkle  powdered  sugar 
over  the  top  of  the  cake.  A  boiled  frost- 
ing may  replace  the  powdered  sugar. 

Fig  Layer  Cake  (No.  2) 

^  a  cup  of  butter  4  teaspoonf  uls  of  bak- 

1  cup  of  sugar  ing  powder 

3  eggs  1       teaspoonful       of 

^  a  cup  of  milk.  orange  extract  or 

1|  cups  of  flour  grated     rind     of 

1  orange 

Cream  the  butter;  gradually  beat  in 
the  sugar,  then  the  eggs,  one  at  a  time, 
iiubeaten.  Beat  very  thoroughly  after 
the  addition  of  each  egg.  Add  the 
milk,  alternately,  with  the  flour  and 
baking  powder  sifted  together.  Bake 
in  two  layers  and  finish  as  above. 
Both  of  these  cakes  are  made  with 
the  whole  egg,  but  a  w^hite  cake  mix- 
ture may,  also,  be  used  with  a  fig 
filling.  If  a  fidling  with  less  figs  be  pre- 
ferred, make  the  usual'boiled  frosting, 
boiling  the  sugar  to  a  pretty  firm,  soft 
ball,  say  242°  Fahr.,  then  add  about 
one-fourth  a  pound  of  figs  cooked  to  a 
thick  paste  and  finish  as  all  boiled 
frostings.  Use  this  as  both  filling  and 
frosting.    [Other  recipes  in  next  issue.] 


Query  1662.  —  "What  can  be  done  to 
keep  the  lower  crust  of  a  custard  pie  from 
becoming  soft,  if  it  stands  over  night? 
How  may  cake  frosting  be  made  so  that  it 
may  cut  easily?  In  making  frosting  I  am 
using  four  whites  of  eggs  to  one  pound  of 
pulverized  sugar;  would  not  the  frosting  be 
less  hard  if  three  eggs  and  a  little  water 
were  used?  Boiled  frosting  put  upon  a 
fruit  cake  turns  dark,  can  this  be  avoided?" 

Softening  of  Crust  of  Custard    Pie 

We  know  of  nothing  that  will  keep 
the  crust  of  a  custard  pie  from  softening 
somewhat  on  standing.  The  oven 
should  be  quite  hot  when  the  pie  is  put 
into  it  that  the  crust  may  bake  before 
it  becomes  soaked,  but  the  heat  must 
be  lowered  before  the  custard  boils. 
Baked  with  care,  the  crust  will  not 
soften  appreciably  for  some  hours. 


Regarding  Cake  Frostings 

Do  not  use  eggs  with  any  frosting 
save  a  cooked  one.  Confectioners' 
sugar  stirred  with  cream,  boiling  water 
or  a  thin  sugar  syrup  to  a  consistency 
to  spread  upon  a  cake  will  give  a 
frosting  that  will  keep  soft  for  some 
time.  Press  almond  icing  close  upon 
a  fruit  cake;  this  will  exclude  the  air 
and  help  to  keep  the  cake  from  becom- 
ing dry.  A  short  time  before  using  the 
cake  (the  day  before)  put  a  boiled 
frosting  over  the  almond  frosting. 

Almond  Icing 

4  oz.  of  almond  paste  I  Powdered  sugar 
2  yolks  of  eggs 

Work  the  paste  and  yolks  of  eggs  to 
a  smooth  paste;  dredge  the  board  with 
powdered  sugar,  and  knead  the  mix- 
ture slightly  and  roll  into  a  sheet.  Cut 
this  as  is  desired  to  make  a  covering  to 
fit  the  cake.  Press  the  edges  of  the 
paste  together,  and  the  paste  itself 
upon  the  cake,  to  avoid  air  spaces  or 
places  where  air  can  enter.  When  ready 
to  ice  the  cake,  spread  the  icing  over 
the  nut  covering. 


Query     1663. 


Recipe  for  Tea  Cakes." 


Tea   Cakes 

Sift  two  cups  of  flour  with  one-half 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt;  work  in  a  level 
tablespoonful  of  butter.  Sift  half  a 
level  teaspoonful  of  soda  into  one  cup 
of  thick  sour  cream  and  mix  thoroughly ; 
then  stir  into  the  flour.  Let  the  dough 
"rest"  about  five  minutes,  then  turn 
upon  a  board,  dredged  with  flour,  and 
knead  slightly;  pat  and  roll  into  a 
sheet  less  than  half  an  inch  thick.  Cut 
into  rounds.  Bake  on  a  hot  griddle  or 
in  the  oven.  Split  or  leave  whole, 
spread  with  butter.     Serve  very  hot. 


Query  1664.  — "In  the  April  issue,  1910, 
there  is  a  recipe  for  'Date  Loaf  Cake.'  Is 
the  recipe  correct?  I  have  not  tried  the 
cake  because  so  many  who  have  read  it  are 
sure  it  is  incorrect." 


Little  Dinners  for  January 


Grape-fruit 
Consomme  with  Green  Peas  and  Egg  Balls 
Fish  Mousse,  Yellow  Veloute  Sauce 
Buttered  Sprouts  (Brussels) 
Saddle  of  Venison,  Currant  Jelly- 
Potato  or  Rice  Croquettes 
Apple-and-Cumquat  Salad 
Coupes  Venus 
Marrons  Glacis 
Coffee 


Caviare  Medallions 

Consomm^  with  Vermicelli 

Grated  Parmesan  Cheese 

(Passed  with  Soup) 

Fried  Oysters,  Sauce  Tartare 

Mushrooms  Cooked  under  Glass  Bells 

Truffled  Supreme  of  Chicken,  Perigueux  Sauce 

Asparagus  Cream  Glace 

Pineapple-and-Orange  Bombe 

Tiny  Cakes 

Coffee 


The 


Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


Vol.  XV 


JANUARY,   191 1 


No.  6 


Modern  Taste  in  Curtains 

By  Mary  H.  Northend 


IT  sometimes  seems  that  during  the 
past  year  or  two  no  other  depart- 
ment of  house  decoration  has  under- 
gone so  radical  a  change  as  have  the 
various  hangings,  especially  window 
curtains. 

There  are  several  reasons  for  this, 
and,  perhaps,  the  leading  motive  is 
sanitary.  The  tuberculosis  agitation 
has  taught  us  to  avoid  heavy,  germ- 
concealing  draperies,  and  substitute 
those  which  are  light,  airy  and,  above 
all,  washable.  We  think  of  the  three 
sets  of  curtains  that  so  lately  cum- 
bered our  windows,  and  we  wonder 
how  a  breath  of  ventilation  could  ever 
force  its  way  through  such  obstruc- 
tions. 

We  have  more  artistic  windows  in 
these  latter  days, — better  worthy  of 
observation  and,  therefore,  more  sus- 
ceptible of  decoration.  The  old-time 
large,  single  window  had  a  check-rail 
across  the  middle,  horizontally,  and 
its  sash  was  glazed  with  a  single  sheet 
of  plate  glass.  In  view  of  such  a 
construction,  perhaps  the  wisest  treat- 
ment was  to  tone  it  down  with  hang- 

259 


ings  superimposed  upon  hangings,  to 
smother  it  in  millinery. 

It  would  be  a  thousand  pities  to 
treat  in  like  manner  the  charming 
little  English  casement,  hinged  to  open 
outward,  like  a  miniature  door,  which 
has  lately  come  into  favor.  Its 
quaintly  leaded  panes  show  beautiful 
designs,  which  no  curtains  must  be 
allowed  to  hide,  any  more  than  they 
should  hide  a  finely  executed  painting. 
Whether  the  design  is  worked  out  in 
clear,  crackle,  colored,  or  opalescent 
glass,  it  should  be  allowed  to  make 
its  appeal  to  the  eye  for  beauty. 

Another  change  is  noted,  and  this  not 
in  the  window  itself,  but  in  its  casing. 
Not  so  many  years  ago,  most  windows 
were  set  in  plain,  pine,  box  frames,  as 
devoid  of  decoration  as  the  exterior  of 
a  packing  case.  In  houses  of  moderate 
cost,  there  was  no  attempt  at  orna- 
mentation of  jamb  or  cornice,  although 
the  edge  of  the  window  stool  might  be 
slightly  grooved  or  beveled.  The  wood 
work  was  painted  a  ghastly  blue-white, 
through  which  no  hint  of  graining 
could  reveal  itself.     Perhaps  the  best 


260 


THE    BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


treatment,  in  all  such  cases,  was  to 
bury  this  hopeless  feature  out  of  sight, 
allowing  the  heavy  plush  curtains  to 
start  above  the  cornice  and  to  bulge 
out  over  the  wall  paper  at  each  side, 
Hkewise  in  the  middle  of  the  window. 
When  all  these  hangings  were  in  place, 
the  window  presented  from  the  outside 
an  unbroken  expanse  of  lace  curtain, 
while,  inside  the  room,  the  hideous 
plush  predominated. 

The  modem  window  leaves  no  ex- 
cuse for  such  treatment.  The  casing 
is  of  hard  wood  or  of  some  beautifully- 
grained  soft  wood,  such  as  Carolina 
pine,  stained  to  the  required  color. 
There  is  a  well-moulded  cornice,  and 
often  come  tasteful  craftsmanship  upon 
jambs  as  well  as  architrave,  thus  in- 
suring a  real  frame  for  the  window. 

Now  in  fitting  draperies  to  windows 
of  this  modem  type,  we  must  remember 
not  to  conceal  the  setting.  The  cur- 
tain  should  be    so   scantv   as   to    o:ive 


but  little  fullness  to  project  over  the 
jambs,  beyond  the  light  opening.  The 
small,  brass  rod  forms  the  best  method 
for  hanging  simple  draperies,  as  in  the 
case  of  sash  curtains.  It  should  be 
kept  well  down  to  the  base  of  the  archi- 
trave, and  the  heading  should  be  as 
narrow  as  possible,  in  order  that  it  may 
not  reach  higher  than  is  absolutely 
necessary.  If  roller  shades  are  used, 
do  not  mount  them  on  the  casings,  but 
set  them  between  the  jambs,  where  3'ou 
will  doubtless  find  that  provision  has 
been  made  for  this  arrangement. 

In  the  same  way,  if  a  dark  curtain 
is  required  inside  the  white  one,  to 
temper  the  light  and  avoid  the  use  of  a 
roller  shade,  let  onh'  one  brass  rod  be 
fastened  to  the  casing,  and  let  that  one 
be  placed  as  low  as  possible.  We  will 
suppose  that  the  curtain  next  the  glass 
is  to  be  very  sheer,  white,  cross-barred 
muslin,  and  that  the  inner  curtain  will 
harmonize  with  the  color  scheme  of  the 


Hangings  are  necessary  to  temper  light  in  Windows  facing  i-l\sT 


MODERN  TASTE  IN  CURTAINS 


261 


These  Curtains  would  look   better   if   they   stopped   at   the    sill 

AND    DID    not    cover    THE    CASINGS 


room.  It  maybe  rich, blood-red  cotton 
crepe,  to  go  with  cherry  furniture,  or 
China  silk,  in  buttercup  yellow,  to 
combine  with  golden  oak.  Now  let  the 
brass  rod  which  holds  up  the  muslin 
curtain  be  fastened  between  the  jambs, 
while  that  which  sustains  the  weight 
of  the  crepe  or  silk  is  attached  to  the 
casing  at  the  base  of  the  architrave. 
Let  both  curtains  reach  only  to  the 
sill,  and  be  very  scanty  of  fullness. 
The  white  muslin  can  be  tied  back, 
while  the  crepe  or  silk  hangs  in  vertical 
folds.  Your  window  will  not  look 
cheap,  vulgar  or  over-dressed. 

The  modem  tendenc}^  is  to  group 
small  windows  instead  of  putting  in  one 
or  two  large  ones.  There  is  much 
beauty  in  the  new  departure,  if  we 
would  but  adapt  our  window  dressing 
to  the  changed  environment.  To  load 
upon  these  smaller  windows  the  same 
amount  of  drapery  that  over-dressed  the 
larger  ones  is  fatal  to  successful  treat- 
ment. By  some  wise  arrangement,  we 
must  decrease  the  number  of  curtains. 

Since  the  new  windows  are  not  only 
smaller  than  the  old.  but  also  exhibit 


a  fine  beauty  of  detail,  as  well  as  of 
material,  it  is  a  mistake  to  use  thick 
and  heavy  hangings,  such  as  belong  to 
portieres.  Flowered  cretonne  is  out 
of  place  at  a  casement  window  set  in  a 
pretty  frame.  Its  stiff  folds  hide  the 
leaded  panes  or  the  thick  wooden  mun- 
tins,  and  blot  out  the  fairy-fingered 
tracery  in  the  natural  grain  of  the 
woodwork.  We  must  learn  to  choose, 
instead  the  washable  silks,  the  cotton 
crepes,  and  the  muslins,  —  dotted, 
cross-barred,  figured,  or  plain.  Scrim, 
cheesecloth,  madras,  and  half  a  hun- 
dred other  fabrics  are  available;  since 
the  only  qualifications  besides  color  are 
that  curtain  stuff  shall  hang  in  pleasing 
folds,  while  it  is  sheer  enough  to  permit 
all  the  window  details  to  show  through. 
No  hard-and-fast  rules  can  be  made 
as  to  the  number  of  curtains  to  be 
used,  because  no  treatment  will  apply 
well  to  all  cases.  We  should  cultivate 
our  judgment  and  our  sense  of  the 
beautiful,  until  we  get  back  to  normal 
standards.  The  only  safe  general  state- 
ment that  can  be  made  is,  that  for 
several  years  we  have  been  over-dress 


26: 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


ing  our  windows,  and  constant  examples 
of  this  bad  taste  have  vitiated  our 
natural  good  judgment.  This  causes 
artificial  lace  to  appear  to  us  more 
beautiful  than  natural  wood,  when  it 
really  is  not.  It  makes  fussy,  brocaded 
velvet  look  more  attractive  than  pretty, 
clear  glass,  set  in  quaint  wooden  mun- 
tins,  or  opalescent  glass,  set  in  restful, 
ornamental  patterns.  Nobody  dreams 
of  hanging  draperies  about  the  stained- 
glass  windows  in  a  church;  but,  if,  for 
the  past  ten  years,  we  had  seen  such 
windows  buried  four  or  five  layers  deep 
in  haberdashery,  we  might  have  formed 
a  different  opinion. 

It  is  safe  to  say  that  we  shall  all  err, 
for  some  years  to  come,  upon  the  side 
of  over-dressing  our  windows.  We 
shall  need  continually  to  restrain  our- 
selves, and  to  ask  ourselves  whether 
each    additional    curtain    is    really    a 


necessity.  After  all,  that  is  the  test. 
Whatever  is  needful  is  beautiful. 
Whatever  is  unnecessary  is  restless  and 
disturbing. 

If  you  have  a  group  of  small  case- 
ment windows  on  the  dark  side  of  the 
house  or  in  a  southern  exposure  that 
is  shaded  by  vines,  by  a  portico,  or  by 
the  height  of  adjacent  buildings,  one 
simple  hanging,  of  the  sash  curtain 
order,  at  each  window  will  be  found 
sufficient.  Of  course,  it  must  extend 
the  whole  length  of  the  light  opening, 
and  some  deeply-colored  thin  material 
may  be  more  satisfactory  than  white. 
The  use  of  white  is  not  imperative. 

If  you  have  a  large  single  window,  of 
the  good,  old,  double-hung  type,  it 
will  bear  as  vast  an  amount  of  dressing 
as  you  have  the  heart  to  give  it.  You 
can  put  up  two  roller-shades,  outer  one 
pearl-gray  to  match  the  house  exterior. 


The  long  French  window  and  the  group  are  well  treated 


MODERN  TASTE  IX  CURTAINS 


263 


A    PRIM    CuLuXIAL    R* 


inner  one,  moss  green  to  match  the  rug. 
Next  to  these  you  can  hang  sheer, 
white  Nottingham  draperies.  Inside 
the  Nottingham  you  can  drape  moss- 
green  velvet,  to  match  the  rug.  These 
can  be  put  through  a  vacuum  cleanser 
once  a  year,  but  never  washed.  Then 
you  can  add  a  valance  at  the  top,  in 
exquisite  hand-embroidery,  to  match 
the  frieze  that  encircles  the  room.  The 
shades  should  be  pulled  down  exactly 
to  the  check-rail. 

Let  us  take  the  case  of  an  old- 
fashioned  bay-window  in  a  living-room. 
There  is  no  chance  for  outside  blinds. 
The  windows  are  double-hung,  and 
each  sash  consists  of  a  single  sheet  of 
plate  glass.  How  shall  \\e  dress  them 
so  as  to  keep  all  their  good  points,  tone 
down  their  w^eak  points,  and  make 
them  wholly  attractive? 

Now  the  best  point  about  this  type 
of  window  is  the  lovely  outlook,  yet 
bays  are  often  built  into  houses  where 
this  is  monotonous,  ugly,  or  even  dis- 
agreeable. In  such  a  case,  it  is  better, 
at  once,  to  lead  the  top  sash  with 
colored  glass  and  the  lower  one  with 
opalescent,  leaving  but  little  that  is 
clear  in  working  out  the  pattern. 

We  will  suppose  that  the  outlook  is 
an  agreeable  one,  facing  southeast.  It 
must  be  kept  inviolate,  and  worked  to 


its  utmost.  The  light  is  too  strong, 
except  in  cloudy  weather.  Roller 
shades  are  necessary.  We  will  choose 
them  in  deep  green,  to  match  the  lead- 
ing tone  in  our  color  scheme.  As  the 
check-rail  is  the  worst  defect  in  the 
double-hung  windows,  we  will  keep  the 
dark  shades  pulled  down  to  it,  w^hen- 
ever  the  sunlight  is  strong  enough  to 
make  their  darkness  agreeable.  When 
we  need  more  light,  we  will  roll  them 
quite  to  the  top,  thus  avoiding  the 
addition  of  a  second  ugly  horizontal 
line,  or  perhaps  of  many,  if  we  did  not 
carefully  adjust  all  alike. 

A  bad  failing  of  these  single  sheets 
of  plate  glass  is  that  they  tend  to  dwarf 
the  size  of  the  room,  and  give  it  an  air 
that  is  dreary.  Above  all  things,  then, 
we  must  seek  for  homelike  touches,  to 
restore  a  tone  of  coziness.  Nothing 
will  do  this  so  well  as  a  window  seat. 
If  there  is  none  already,  it  must  be 
built  in  at  once.  If  windows  and  seat 
combined  make  the  room  look  small, 
arrange  a  bookcase  at  each  side  of  the 
window-bay,  extending  from  the  floor 
about  tw^o-thirds  of  the  distance  to  the 
ceiling.  The  upper  divisions  can  be 
used  for  display  of  china  or  any  other 
collections.  This  feature  will  deepen 
the  effect  of  the  window  recess  and 
work  a  great  improvement. 


264 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Now  we  wish  more  curtains,  to  give 
a  homelike  touch,  and  there  should  be 
no  hestitation  as  to  which  kind  to  buy. 
What  curtains  add  coziness  and  home- 
Hkeness ?  White  muslin,  of  course,  with 
plenty  of  ruffles.  Don't  stint  those 
ruffles,  for  this  type  of  window  needs 
them  all.  Let  the  muslin  be  very 
sheer,  so  that  the  outside  view  shows 
through  it  almost  as  plainly  as  through 
the  plate  glass.  Make  each  curtain  in 
two  parts  and  tie  them  back  with 
white  cords.  Leave  the  tops  plain, 
where  they  slide  over  the  brass  rods. 
Add  the  crowning  touch  of  coziness  by 
sewing  on  a  valance  at  the  top.  It  is 
made  of  the  white  muslin,  with  a 
dainty,  narrow  border  done  in  green 
fern-leaved  pattern,  by  the  use  of  a 
stencil  and  colors.  If  you  cannot  use 
the  stencils,  and  have  no  time  to  learn, 
outline  the  hem  in  feather-stitching, 
with  white  linen  floss  or  with  washable, 
green  embroidery  silk. 


If  the  bayed  recess  shows  awkward 
lines  at  its  point  of  meeting  with  the 
main  room,  as  such  recesses  frequently 
do,  another  valance,  just  a  bit  deeper, 
may  well  be  used  here,  in  connection 
with  a  cluster  of  drapery,  hanging  to 
the  floor  at  each  side,  to  simulate  a 
drawn-back  portiere.  A  little  more 
dignity  is  required  here,  both  by  the 
arched  effect  and  by  the  full-length 
treatment.  A  good  quality  of  cotton 
rajah  may  be  procured  at  from  twenty 
to  thirty  cents,  according  to  time  of 
purchase.  This  can  be  bought  in  a 
lovely  shade  of  apple-green.  One 
breadth  will  make  the  drapery  at  each 
end,  and  the  valance  across  the  arch 
should  be  decorated  in  the  simplest 
Greek  pattern, — "the  walls  of  Troy," — 
by  means  of  stencil,  or  by  the  use  of 
a  cross-stitch  done  in  white  linen 
floss. 

The  built-in  window-seat  should  have 
green  cushions,  and  a  goodly  supply  of 


A  Unique  Billiard  Room 


A  NEW-YEAR  GUEST 


265 


pillows,  covered  in  white  linen,  deco- 
rated in  simple  w^hite  applique  or  em- 
broidery, or  in  green  denim,  decorated 
in  a  similar  manner,  and,  also,  some 
pillows  covered  in  solid  green,  with  the 
pieces  left  from  the  green  rajah  cur- 


tains. One  or  two  footstools  in  green 
oak  lend  an  added  hint  of  home  com- 
fort. The  workbasket  looks  homelike, 
beside  this  seat.  So  does  a  fugitive 
book,  escaped  from  the  shelves,  and  a 
mandolin  or  a  guitar  case. 


January 

By  Lalia  Mitchell 


Ice-pillared  keystone  of  the  year. 
Keynote  of  song,  of  Winter's  cheer; 
Pivot  upon  which  circling  joys 
Swing  like  the  bells  of  Christmas  toys; 
Center  of  months,  when  those  may  rest 
Who  till  the  foot-hills'  earthy  crest; 


Midwinter  season,  when  the  light 
Of   hearth    fires   makes   the   whole   world 
bright; 
Apex  of  storm,  of  changeless  cold, 
When  sheep  crop  closest  to  the  fold, — 
We  hail  thee,  capsheaf,  crisp  and  white, 
Of  all  thy  season's  rare  delight. 


A  New- Year  Guest 

By  Alice  Thorn 


MISS  SARAH  NEWCOMB  sat  in 
an  extremely  high-backed  chair 
in  the  sitting-room  bay  win- 
dow, painstakingly  darning  one  of  her 
very  best  tablecloths.  At  last,  with 
a  long  sigh,  she  laid  down  her  work  and 
with  pardonable  pride  surveyed  the 
infinitesimal  stitches. 

"Rachel  Smilie  used  to  say  that  I 
was  one  of  her  best  pupils,  and  what  a 
wide-awake  class  of  girls  we  were,  to  be 
sure,"  remarked  Miss  Sarah,  evidently 
addressing  the  hair  wreath  that  hung 
over  the  table.  "She  wouldn't  be 
ashamed  of  me,  I  guess,  if  she  were 
living  now,  .dear  old  soul!" 

The  twihght  was  fast  gathering,  and 
now  Miss  Sarah's  sober  eyes  were  fixed 
upon  a  row  of  leafless  maples  that 
were  outUned  against  the  sky.  But 
she  did  not  see  the  snowy  landscape,  or 
the  road  along  which  occasional  teams 
passed  —  the  years  rolled  back,  and 
again    she    was    a    gay,    brown-haired 


girl  of  fifteen,  attending  the  Quaker 
school,  whose  unlovely  walls  and  plain 
furnishings  failed  ^  to  tone  down  the 
rising  spirits  of  the  forty  girls  who 
hurried  up  and  down  the  narrow  halls 
and  steep  stairs.  Widely  scattered 
were  those  schoolmates  now;  married 
many  of  them,  on  marble  slabs  some 
names  were  cut.  "  I'd  better  just  stop 
reminiscing,"  ejaculated  Miss  Sarah; 
"I'm  getting  more  lonesome  every 
minute;  it  must  be  because  it  is  the 
last  day  of  the  old  year:  yes,  that  is  it. 
I  call  it  poor  business  for  a  sensible 
spinster  of  fifty  to  get  pitying  herself 
because  she  lives  alone  with  her  maid 
and  her  cat." 

Half  apologetically  she  wiped  her 
eyes,  pulled  down  the  shades,  lighted 
the  large  kerosene  reading  lamp,  and 
carefully  put  away  her  mending.  But 
as  'she  ate  her  six-o'clock  supper  her 
sober  mood  was  still  upon  her.  "I 
wish,"   so  ran  her  thoughts,   "that  I 


266 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


had  some  young  thing  coming  to  spend 
the  holiday  with  me.  If  only  brother 
Jim  hadn't  moved  West.  Nevada  is 
a  long  way  from  Massachusetts!  I'd 
appreciate  a  niece,  I  do  believe  I 
should,  and  to  think  that  my  only 
brother's  two  boj^s  are  all  there  are  to 
come  after  me."  Musingly  she  ate, 
then  rising,  and,  as  if  afraid  to  be  alone 
with  her  own  sad  thoughts,  went  into 
the  kitchen  to  talk  up  the  morrow's 
dinner  with  Irish  Mary. 

"I  will  say,"  began  that  rosy  helper, 
"  I  will  say  that  everything's  turned  out 
grand,  just  grand!  Them  pies  is  just 
lovely,  and  I  wouldn't  ask  for  nicer 
stuffin'  than  I've  sewed  up  in  the  turkey. 

"Mary,  how  long  do  you  think  it  will 
take  us  two  and  the  cat  to  eat  up  such 
a  generous  bird? "  inquired  her  mistress. 

"Good  land,  now  don't  be  askin'  me 
that,"  laughed  Mary,  showing  a  broad 
expanse  of  w^hite  teeth.  "I'm  only 
thinkin'  what  a  rare  fine  fellow  he  is;  I 
wisht  you  could  be  havin'  some  one  in 
to  help  eat  it,  ma'am." 

It  was  nearly  nine  o'clock  when  Miss 
Sarah  opened  the  front  door  to  call  in 
the  cat.  "Come,  come,  Pete,"  she 
called,  "come,  puss;"  and  just  at  that 
moment  the  creak  of  runners  sounded 
on  the  near-by  road,  and  a  loud  "Whoa 
there,  whoa,  Molly,"  evidently  at  her 
gate,  made  her  pause  in  astonishment. 
Who  could  be  stopping  as  late  in  the 
evening  as  this! 

"I've  brought  ye  some  company," 
called  the  loud,  cheerful  voice  of  Jake 
Townsend,  the  stage- driver ; ' '  calkalated 
that  a  lone  woman  needed  cheerin'  up, 
and  so  here's  a  girl  to  spend  New  Year 
with  you." 

Straight  up  the  steps  came  a  tall, 
slim  girl,  and  raised  her  sweet  rosy 
face  to  Miss  Sarah's  genuinely  surprised 
one. 

"You  don't  know  me,"  said  the 
young  stranger;  "oh,  you  don't,  but  my 
mother  was  at  school  with  you  years 
ago;  you  must  remember  Kate  Wins- 
low  :    well,    I'm   her    daughter,    Kate, 


and  only  yesterday,  in  a  letter  from 
mother,  I  heard  that  you  fived  not  far 
away  from  the  school.  I'm  studying 
at  Mrs.  Carroll's,  at  Norwich  Manor, 
and  as  one  of  the  teachers  was  coming 
to  your  village  today,  too,  I  just  packed 
my  suit  case  and  came  to  spend  the 
New  Year  with  you.  I  do  hope," 
anxiously,  "  that  you  are  glad  I  came. 
I  am  afraid  I  should  have  written  you 
first.  It  was  so  lonel}^  at  school  with 
all  the  girls  gone,  and  it  was  so  far  to  go 
home.     We  live  in  Kansas,  you  know." 

"You  dear  child,"  cried  Miss  Sarah, 
flushing  with  pleasure  and  excitement, 
and  drawing  the  newcomer  into  the 
warm  sitting-room,  "believe  me,  you 
are  just  as  welcome  as  you  can  be. 
First,  for  your  mother's  sake,  and  now 
for  your  own.  Oh,  how  like  your 
mother  you  are,  her  coloring,  and  just 
such  dark  eyes!  I  was  feeling  down- 
right sad  and  lonely,  and  wishing  I  had 
a  young  person  in  the  house  to  cheer 
me  up.  You  came  at  the  right  time. 
I  hear  Mary  getting  the  guest-room 
ready  —  she  saw  you  come  —  and  after 
you've  had  some  supper  you  must  go 
to  bed;  I  think  we  won't  sit  up  to  see 
the  new  year  in;  he'll  come  just  the 
same,  even  if  we  aren't  there  to  open 
the  door  for  him;  never  knew  him  to 
fail." 

A  little  later,  as  she  watched  her 
young  guest  doing  full  justice  to  the 
dainty  lunch.  Miss  Sarah  made  many 
inquiries  as  to  her  old  schoolmate  and 
her  family.  "I  haven't  seen  your 
mother  in  many,  many  years.  I  re- 
member she  married  a  John  Weston, 
and  I  heard,  from  time  to  time,  of  the 
birth  of  her  children.  Let  me  see  — 
are  you  the  only  daughter?" 

"Yes,  I  am,  and  the  youfigest  child, 
have  three  older  brothers;"  and,  in  a 
voice  that  was  not  altogether  steady, 
"sometimes  my  dear  family  seem  un- 
usually far  away,  especially  at  such 
holiday  times.  I'm  —  I'm  sixteen,  but 
I  do  miss  mother  and  the  rest  dread- 
fully." 


A  NEW-YEAR  GUEST 


267 


Miss  Sarah  went  around  the  table, 
and  suddenly  put  both  arms  around 
young  Kate  and  gave  her  an  under- 
standing kiss.  "Dear  heart,"  she  cried, 
"why  shouldn't  you  miss  them?  You 
wouldn't  be  natural  if  you  didn't, 
Kate.  I  miss  my  mother  still,  and  she 
died  when  I  was  twenty.  But  your 
school  year  isn't  a  long  one,  and  you'll 
be  traveling  back  before  you  know  it. 
Tell  me  how  your  mother  looks  now. 
I  want  to  hear  all  about  her." 

"Well,"  answered  the  girl,  "of 
course,"  with  her  quick  smile,  —  "of 
course,  I  think  mother  has  the  loveliest 
face  in  the  world,  but  others  admire 
her,  too,  so  it  isn't  just  because  she  is 
my  mother.  Her  hair  is  far  whiter 
than  yours,  and  her  eyes  are  larger 
than  mine,  and  very  bright.  She  has 
a  dimple  in  her  left  cheek,  and  she  and 
I  are  about  the  same  height,  and  she's 
qmte  a  Httle  stouter,  and,  and  she 
smiles  so  easih^  my  mother  does.  How 
I  wish  I  had  brought  her  picture  with 
me,  but  its  frame  makes  it  rather  heavy, 
and  it  hangs  upon  m}^  wall  at  school." 

"She  was  a  dear  girl  when  she  and  I 
were  at  school  together,"  said  Miss 
Sarah,  "  and  I  can  see  she's  made  a  good 
mother.  How^  I  should  enjoy  a  good 
visit  with  her  again!" 

One  hour  later  the  old  house  had 
fallen  into  quietness.  Miss  Sarah,  quite 
wearied  out  -with  unwonted  excite- 
ment, had  fallen  asleep  to  dream  of 
schoolgirl  mischief  long  forgotten.  A 
merry,  dark-ej^ed  girl  was  clasping  her 
arm,  and  whispering  about  some  won- 
derful plan.  In  the  peaceful  guest- 
room the  young  girl  was  swiftly  trans- 
ported across  long  leagues  of  snowy 
country  to  the  far-away  home,  and  lo, 
her  mother's  welcoming  smile  seemed 
sweeter  than  ever  before.  Still  later 
an  unseen  guest  stole  into  the  sleeping 
village,  un welcomed  by  clanging  bells 
or  musical  chimes,  and  straightway 
another  year  had  begun. 

Next  morning  Kate  tripped  down 
the  winding  stairs  at  the  call  to  break- 


fast, as  she  went  passing  her  hand 
caressingly  over  the  dark,  polished 
rail  that  was  Miss  Sarah's  especial 
pride. 

"Good  morning!  Qdod  morning!" 
cried  the  girl  in  her  glad  young  voice; 
"oh,  Miss  Sarah,"  stretching  out  her 
arms  as  if  to  embrace  it  all,  "you  don't 
know  how  nice  it  is  to  be  in  a  real  homey 
home  after  so  many  weeks  in  a  great 
rushing  boarding  school." 

"I'm  so  glad  to  have  you  feel  that 
way,"  was  the  older  woman's  rejoinder. 
"  I  had  been  wondering  if  you'd  find  it 
too  quiet  after  boarding  school." 

As  she  took  her  seat,  the  girl's  eyes 
fell  upon  a  small,  white  box  yellowed 
with  age,  and  with  its  gold  lettering  a 
trifle  blurred,  lying  close  to  her  nap- 
kin. "Why!  why!"  looking  inquir- 
ingly at  her  hostess,  "is  it  for  me,  do 
you  mean  that  I  have  a  truly  New- Year 
present.  Miss  Sarah?" 

"I  certainly  do  mean  it's  for  you, 
and  none  other,  Kate.  Open  it,  my 
dear,  and  see  if  it  pleases  you." 

With  eager  fingers  she  quickly  re- 
removed  the  cover,  and  saw  lying  on 
its  bed  of  cotton  a  quaint  coral  pend- 
ant set  in  dull  gold,  attached  to  its 
own  slender  chain. 

"Oh,  I  never  saw  such  a  dear,  darling 
pendant!"  cried  the  girl,  gazing  rap- 
turously at  her  gift ;  ' '  and  to  think  that 
you  w^anted  to  give  it  to  me ;  how  can  I 
thank  you.  Miss -Sarah!" 

"By  wearing  it,  my  dear,"  answered 
her  hostess;  "and  3'ou  must  hear  its 
history:  it  was  an  earring,  one  of  a 
pair  given  to  my  Aunt  Margaret  when 
she  was  a  girl  Hke  yourself.  She  willed 
them  to  me,  and  as  I  never  wore  ear- 
rings they  lay  half  forgotten  in  a  faf 
comer  of  my  bureau,  till  at  last,  one 
day  I  took  this  one  in  to  a  jeweler  in 
Wayland  and  asked  him  if  it  could  not 
be  converted  into  a  pendant.  This  he 
did,  as  you  see.  I've  always  longed  for 
a  niece,  and  thought  a  girl  should  wear 
such  an  ornament  —  had  been  keeping 
it  for  I  knew  not  whom.     Instead  of 


268 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


my  hoped-for  nieces  there  are  just  two 
sturdy  boys  away  off  in  Nevada,  and 
when  you  came  last  evening,  looking  so 
like  the  Kate  Winslow  I  loved  in  my 
young  days,  I  decided  that  her  daughter 
must  have  the  pendant." 

The  girl  fingered  lovingly  the  rosy 
ornament  as  she  listened  to  the  story, 
and  at  its  close  she  said :  "  I  feel  so  rich 
and  so  happy,  and  I  shall  value  my 
pendant  so  much  more,  now  that  I 
know  its  history,  and  that  another  girl 
loved  it  long,  long  ago.  Oh,  how  care- 
ful I  shall  be  of  it!  Maybe,  Miss  Sarah, 
still  another  girl  will  wear  it  when  I  am 
done  with  it." 

"Who  knows,  my  child?"  and  Miss 
Sarah  smiled  tenderly  at  the  young  girl. 

Too  soon  the  happy  visit  came  to  an 
end;  but  schools  have  a  way  of  begin- 
ning, and  most  regretfully  Kate  Weston 
said  good  by  to  her  mother's  friend, 
who  had  now  become  her  own. 

"And  you  know  you've  promised  to 
come  over  when  we  give  our  next  musi- 
cale,  dear  Miss  Sarah,  and  I  am  sure 
you  never  break  a  promise.  The  girls 
will  all  love  you  just  as  I  do,"  pressing 


a  soft,  firm  cheek  against  the  older 
woman's  shoulder. 

"Unless  something  quite  unforeseen 
occurs,  I  do  mean  to  come,"  said  Miss 
Sarah.  "We've  had  a  happy  time  to- 
gether, you  and  I,  Kate,  and  every 
time  that  you  can  arrange  to  come  to  me 
I  shall  be  more  than  glad  to  receive 
you." 

Miss  Sarah  watched  her  young  visitor 
driven  swiftly  away,  caught  the  last 
glimpse  of  the  dark,  wavy  coils  of  hair, 
the  gleam  of  silver  on  her  turban,  and 
listened  for  the  last  faint  tinkle  of  the 
sleigh  bells,  far  down  the  snowy  road, 
long  after  they  had  passed  out  of  sight. 
The  home  seemed  suddenly  empty,  but 
she  did  not  feel  the  old  loneliness;  her 
heart  was  strangely  warmed,  a  young 
Hfe  had  touched  her  own,  brightening, 
blessing  it.  She  should  see  her  win- 
some guest  again,  hear  from  her,  from 
time  to  time.  Cheerful  tomorrows 
were  coming,  and  Miss-  Sarah,  taking 
up  her  neglected  knitting,  rattled  the 
needles  so  vigorously  that  Pete,  the 
black  cat,  raised  his  head  to  see  what 
his  mistress  was  up  to. 


On  the  Whole 

By  Kate  Gannett  Wells 


THE  phrase,  "on  the  whole,"  ac- 
quires widely  different  meanings 
according  to  the  careless  opti- 
mism, sturdy  pessimism  or  balanced 
deductions  of  her  who  uses  it.  Some 
of  us  assume  that  these  words  justify 
us  in  busybody  interference,  as  of  course 
our  way  is  the  best.  Others  predicate 
upon  the  same  phrase  their  right  to 
selfish  laziness.  Surely  life  would  be 
difficult  at  times,  if  we  were  not  per- 
petually setting  off  one  thing  by 
another,  balancing,  compromising,  and 
then  vaguely  or  angrily  declaring  that. 


on  the  whole,  it  is  best  as  it  is,  what- 
ever that  it  may  chance  to  be. 

Most  persons,  consciously  or  un- 
consciously, are  optimistic  or  pessi- 
mistic. One  can  almost  always  tell  to 
which  division  of  thinkers  her  friends 
belong  by  their  use  of  the  synthetic  or 
analytic  method  of  thinking.  Yet 
there  is  no  more  aggravating  person 
than  the  persistently  cheerful  woman, 
who  obstinately  refuses  to  see  that 
things  are  going  badly,  insisting  that, 
on  the  whole,  they  are  all  right.  Fail- 
ure in  perception  of  real  values  is  the 


ON  THE  WHOLE 


269 


severest  indictment  that  can  be  brought 
against  a  stupidly  cheerful  person.  But 
the  pessimist  is  an  embodied  argument, 
her  very  discontent  working  for  good, 
as  she  frets  and  fumes,  planning  ex- 
pedients, lest  the  deluge  come  and  there 
be  no  ark  of  refuge  and,  usually  just 
because  of  her  practical  indignation,  it 
does  not  arrive. 

There  is,  however,  a  small  residuum 
of  people  who  occupy  middle  ground, 
either  because  they  are  fearful  of 
extremes  or  because  they  possess  the 
historic  sense.  When  they  say  on  the 
whole,  their  dictum  is  the  result  of 
sober,  balanced  reflection  over  pros 
and  cons.  These  are  the  persons  who 
never  despair  of  the  progress  of  the 
world  and  who  see  beyond  present 
limitations  and  hindrances  into  the 
splendor  of  the  future.  They  are 
neither  pessimistic  nor  optimistic  be- 
cause, while  they  analyze  and  find  fault, 
they  also  bring  together  the  results  of 
their  analysis,  putting  all  the  pieces 
into  harmonious  synthesis. 

Nor  because  we  seek  to  indemnify 
ourselves  by  saying,  on  the  whole, 
things  are  not  so  bad,  it  does  not  follow 
we  should  always  accept  them  as 
inevitable.  But  if  the  present  and 
actual  is  surely  the  inevitable,  then  we 
must  take  it  as  the  best  for  us.  In 
almost  each  home,  at  one  time  or 
another,  there  is  struggle  with  disease, 
temperament,  occupation  and  pecu- 
niary loss,  when  thousands  of  heroes 
yet  have  said,  balancing  loss  against 
gain,  whatever  is,  is  best. 

In  family  life  are  we  not  constantly 
setting  one  point  off  against  another? 
One's  husband  forgets  he  was  ever  a 
lover,  taking  his  wife's  work  as  a  matter 
of  course.  But  if  any  one  hints  to  her 
of  his  shortcomings,  she  valiantly  de- 
clares that,  on  the  whole,  he  is  a  real 
good  man.  And  the  husband,  half 
conscious  that  his  wife  is  not  as  pretty 
as  when  she  was  a  girl,  but  never  bother- 
ing himself  about  how  much  she  now 
loves  him,  just  taking  her  for  granted. 


yet  going  out  of  the  house  for  amuse- 
ment, still  asserts  that,  on  the  whole, 
he  has  the  best  wife  man  ever  had. 
Oh,  the  sham  comfort  there  is  in  such 
a  summing  up  of  the  situation! 

Loving  our  own  children  best,  we 
cannot  often  know  that  they  are  not 
as  bright  and  strong  as  other  people's 
children  and  that  our  care  of  them  has 
failed  to  produce  desired  results.  Yet 
as  they  might  have  been  so  much  worse, 
on  the  whole,  they  are  first  rate.  But  in 
our  secret  heart  we  know  that  if  they 
were  what  we  had  dreamed  of,  there 
would  have  been  no  qualifying  phrase. 
Truly  as  housekeepers  or  employers  we 
know  the  pacifying  value  of  regarding 
on-the-whole  basis  the  imperfections 
of  work  in  cookery,  dusting,  sewing.  It 
is  no  use  to  find  fault  all  the  time,  even 
if  it  is  deserved.  If  the  bread  is  heavy, 
the  roast  beef  may  be  excellent.  Better 
keep  house  in  a  kitchenette  by  one's 
lonesome  self  than  undertake  the  job 
for  one's  family,  unless  one  has  insight 
enough  to  see  that  housekeeping,  as  to 
its  failures  and  successes,  is  to  be  run 
on  the  valuation  of  on  the  whole. 

We  must  also  take  our  friends  by  the 
synthetic  process,  considering  their 
physical  and  mental  conditions,  limita- 
tions, perplexities,  all  jumbled  together, 
judging  them  not  by  any  one  moment- 
ary product  of  themselves,  but  by  the 
total  impression  they  make  upon  us. 
Take  them  for  all  in  all,  putting  a  short- 
coming against  a  noble  quaHty,  doing 
a  sum  in  long  division  as  to  their 
valuation,  we  find  that,  on  the  whole, 
the  quotient  is  in  their  favor.  When 
our  phrase  carries  in  its  use  this  sense 
of  elimination  and  comprehension,  it 
becomes  the  jubilant  refrain  of  opti- 
mism and  the  vigorous  denial  of  pessi- 
mism. On  the  whole,  the  world  is 
growing  better  with  each  year  of  its 
life.  In  such  belief  have  camps  of 
philanthropy  been  formed  all  over  the 
world,  redeeming  human  nature  by 
long  patience  as  well  as  by  jerks.  Never 
despair,  from  its  old  Latin  version  to  our 


270 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


present  vernacular,  is  the  motto  which 
accompanies  the  phrase,  on  tlie  whole. 
How  often  we  say  of  a  book  that,  on 
the  whole,  we  more  or  less  like  it !  How 
frequently,  too,  do  authors  portray 
characteristics  rather  than  character 
as  a  whole!  In  Thackeray's  "  Henry  Es- 
mond," and  in  Dickens's  "Micawber,  " 
we  have  the  whole  man,  while  in  Henry 
James's  heroes  we  are  aware  chiefly  of 
disconnected  points.  Even  more  pro- 
nounced than  in  literature  is  the  syn- 
thetic method  in  the  treatment  of  art. 
Impressionism  and  Preraphaelitism  are 
its  two  extremes,  the  elaborate  fore- 
ground and  minor  details  or  an  on-the- 
whole  interpretation  of  nature  as  in 
Monet's  landscapes. 
Thus  is  it  that  in  our  homes,  in  society, 


in  work,  in  art,  in  literature  we  are 
constantly  reckoning  on  parts;  yet  all 
things  considered,  deterrents,  limita- 
tions, imperfections,  partial,  one-sided 
views,  acts,  the  whole  is  that  for  which 
we  are  grateful.  The  very  famiharity 
of  the  phrase  wins  us  to  its  constant 
use,  humbly  trusting  that,  on  the 
whole,  we  are  better  than  we  seem  to  be 
and  joyjully  acknowledging  that  work, 
friends  and  life  are  infinite  blessings. 
Thus  regarded  the  phrase  sloughs  off 
any  pessimistic  meaning  and  becomes 
the  foundation  on  which  we  rest,  look- 
ing upward  and  onward  into  visions  of 
the  glories  which  we,  ourselves,  with 
our  feet  on  earth,  our  hands  on  work, 
are  to  make  into  deeds  for  the  better- 
ment of  the  world. 


The  Heart  of  the  Home 

By  Cora  A.  Matson  Dolson 


This  is  the  heart  of  the  home  — 
The  flame  on  the  low,  red  hearth; 

Wherever  love's  feet  may  roam, 
It  calls  to  the  place  of  birth. 

Its  lights  and  its  shadows  play- 
On  the  forms  of  mother  and  child 

When  the  night  has  closed  the  day, 
And  the  dark  breathes  legends  wild. 


Songs  and  the  dreams  of  youth 
Come  from  this  home's  red  heart, 

Kindled  with  trust  and  truth, 
Though  half  of  a  life  apart. 

Memory  with  outstretched  palm 
Keeps  in  its  hollow  warm, 

Hearth-flame  and  laugh  and  psalm, 
Safe  from  time's  boding  storm. 


French  Manners 


By  Frances  B.  Sheafer 


IT  frequently  happens  that  an  Ameri- 
can resident  in  France  will  hear  a 
newly  arrived  countrywoman  ex- 
claim, after  a  day  spent  in  trying  to 
get  about  in  a  city  whose  language  she 
does  not  speak,  "Well,  I've  always 
heard  a  great  deal  about  French  po- 
liteness!    I    have   yet   to   meet   it.     I 


consider  the  French  the  most  ill-man- 
nered people  on  earth."  And  then 
the  expatriated  American  gives  a  little 
guilty  start,  for  it  is  a  matter  of  common 
knowledge  over  here  that  the  French 
have  made  a  verb  of  our  national  title, 
and  "  Americanizer "  in  current  litera- 
ture means  to  vulgarize.     Clearly,  these 


FRENCH  MANNERS 


271 


unflattering  opinions,  which  the  two 
races  entertain  concerning  each  other, 
must  be  founded  on  very  different  hy- 
potheses. 

I  remember  once  remarking  to  a 
young  Frenchman  that  I  had  just  had 
one  of  my  convictions  confirmed  by  a 
distinguished  French  writer,  namely, 
that  Americans  have  far  better  table 
manners  than  the  French.  The  young 
man  looked  at  me  amazed,  and  then  he 
protested:  "Vous  croyez?  But  no, 
Mademoiselle,  oh,  no!"  and  he  was  so 
fervid  that  I  felt  sure  he,  too,  must 
have  settled  convictions  on  this  sub- 
ject. I  was  burning  to  ask  him  to 
enumerate  them,  but  I  dared  not;  and 
this  same  youth,  of  an  excellent  family 
and,  beyond  question,  ''hien  eleve'' 
has  an  annoying  habit  of  sniffling  at 
meals  and  of  making  a  most  prodigious 
noise  when  he  eats  soup.  I  wondered 
what  I  might  be  doing  equally  offensive 
to  him. 

What  the  indignant  ladies,  who 
consider  the  French  impolite,  miss  in 
France  is  the  chivalrous  attitude  of  all 
American  men  toward  all  womankind, 
the  deserving  and  the  undeserving 
alike.  They  are  used  to  having  their 
femininity  respected,  of  using  it,  indeed, 
as  an  asset.  And  when  one  of  them 
is  roughly  pushed  off  a  Parisian  omni- 
bus, which  she  has  insisted  on  mounting 
despite  the  " complet"  sign,  which  she 
cannot  read,  and  the  angry  expostula- 
tions of  the  conductor,  which  she 
does  not  understand,  she  is  naturally 
offended.  It  takes  a  long  period  of 
subjection  to  inflexible  rules  to  realize 
that  in  a  system-ridden  countr}'^  like 
France,  the  rules,  which  are  made  for 
all,  are  stronger  than  any  one  small 
woman's  injured  sense  of  dignity. 
Were  she  of  royal  blood,  and  by  any 
hazard  should  wish  to  ride  in  an  omni- 
bus already  carrying  its  prescribed 
quota  of  passengers,  she  could  not  alter 
the  unchanging  laws.  She  would  have 
to  wait  her  turn  patiently,  a  little  card- 
board number  in  her  hand.     Nor  would 


she  be  likely  to  have  a  seat  offered  her, 
if  she  is  among  the  last  to  mount,  and 
holds,  therefore,  one  of  the  platform 
places.  Only  women  with  infants  or 
the  very  old  are  accorded  this  courtesy 
in  France.  This  is  a  democratic  land, 
and  lest  any  one  forget,  the  powers 
that  be  have  inscribed  conspicuously 
on  all  public  places  the  brand  of  re- 
pubHcanism,  its  "Liberty,  Equality 
and  Fraternity"  legend.  It  certainly 
ill  behooves  spoiled  femininity  from 
the  sister  republic  across  the  seas  to 
rebel  against  the  practices  of  .de- 
mocracy. 

One  does  not  look  for  the  representa- 
tive good  manners  of  a  people  in  the 
streets  of  their  largest  city,  anyway, 
and  what  the  French  think  of  the  New 
York  crowds  who  jostle  the  brides  at 
our  international  weddings  would  not 
really  be  fit  to  print.  I  know  a  French- 
man who  lives  in  New  York  because 
the  requirements  of  his  livelihood  keep 
him  there.  He  persists  in  wearing  the 
long  beard  made  popular  in  France  by 
the  late  King  Leopold.  It  has  some- 
tim.es  happened  that,  when  taking  his 
peaceful  promenade  in  Central  Park  of 
a  Sunday,  he  has  had  his  blond  barbe 
ignominiously  pulled  by  the  young 
hoodlums  who  swarm  there  in  fine 
weather.  Naturally,  he  considers  them 
the  worst  specimens  of  young  manhood 
extant.  I  have  never  heard  of  a  Paris 
gamin  laying  derisive  hands  on  a  visit- 
ing foreigner,  the  cut  of  whose  beard 
displeased  him. 

They  will  call  after  us,  "Speek  Ing- 
litch,"  and  "A-oh  ya-as,"  but  this 
taunt  is  not  meant  to  be  an  insult,  only 
a  mild  pleasantry.  The  people,  the 
working  people,  bear  us  no  ill  will,  and 
it  is' not  they  who  have  incorporated 
that  severely  condemning  verb  into 
the  French  language.  It  is  the  cul- 
tured, critical  few  who  think  we  are  an 
^ill-bred  race,  that  we  lack  reverence, 
that  we  are  loud  and,  above  all,  have 
none  other  than  money  standards. 

In  all  seriousness  a  magazine  writer 


272 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


here,  not  long  ago,  deplored  the  decline 
of  poUteness  among  the  employes  of 
the  Parisian  stores,  and  he  lay  their 
deterioration  to  the  influence  of  their 
ever-increasing  American  patronage. 
The  American  woman  of  wealth,  who 
walks  into  a  shop  with  a  friend,  ignoring 
the  greeting  of  the  clerk ;  who  discusses 
the  genuineness  of  the  laces,  perhaps 
under  the  enthusiastic  proprietor's  very 
nose,  and  who  then  sails  out  again,  on 
learning  the  price,  at  least,  is  that  of 
real  lace,  all  with  the  arrogance  that 
money  brings,  does  not  leave  the  best 
impression  on  the  polite  shopkeeper, 
who  is  used  to  receiving  his  clients  as 
if  they  were  his  guests,  on  bowing  them 
in  and  out,  on  having  them  temper  their 
refusal  to  buy  with  the  polite  fiction 
that  they  will  bring  their  maris  to 
look  at  the  desired  purchase. 

The  whole  proceeding  is  different  in 
France.  You  never  enter  a  shop  with- 
out the  cordial  "Bon  jour  "  of  the  clerk; 
you  never  leave  it,  even  empty  handed, 
without  a  word,  perhaps,  on  the 
villainous  weather,  and  an  "aw  revoir." 
A  little  New  York  lady  of  my  acquaint- 
ance, whom  I  once  helped  buy  a  hat 
during  her  first  visit  to  Paris,  was  so 
absorbed  in  the  importance  of  her  pur- 
chase that  she  found  the  successive 
dialogues  extremely  annoying.  They 
interrupted  her  train  of  thought.  She 
exclaimed,  at  last,  in  great  exaspera- 
tion: "Why  can't  these  people  let  me 
go  and  come  without  all  this  fuss?  I 
don't  know  them  anyway!  " 

And  yet  it  is  a  simple  enough  cere- 
mony, once  you  are  used  to  it,  and  it 
adds  a  little  suavity  to  the  dry  busi- 
ness of  buying  and  selling.  The  lack 
of  good  manners  in  a  shopping  trans- 
action in  France  is  not  on  the  part  of 
the  people  who  sell.  The  humblest 
marchand  will  accompany  a  sale  with 
a  cheery  word,  at  least,  sometimes 
even  with  a  surprising  and  enlightening 
philosophical  discourse. 

People  for  people,  rank  for  rank,  of 
course,  among  the  civilized  races,  good 


breeding  will  be  much  the  same,  and 
what  a  race  lacks  in  one  direction  it 
may  make  up  in  another.  Americans 
have  a  kind  of  frank  cordiality,  which 
makes  them  liked,  when  these  more 
conventional  people  at  last  learn  to  ac- 
cept it  in  social  intercourse,  instead  of 
the  subleties  which  are  theirs.  What 
the  French  possess  to  a  remarkable 
degree  is  grace  of  manner.  They  al- 
ways know  what  to  say  or  to  do  in  a 
given  situation.  Frenchmen  know 
all  the  little  tricks  of  gallantry,  and 
they  employ  them  with  a  nice  sense 
of  effect.  It  could  never  happen  in 
France  that  you  would  wear  a  new 
dress,  one  you  secretly  thought  rather 
well  of,  and  have  it  pass  quite  un- 
noticed by  a  Frenchman  friend.  He 
will  invariably  have  some  pretty  speech 
to  make  about  it.  An  American  man 
may  easily  not  know  it  from  your  old- 
est and  most  despised  garment.  Of 
course  the  French  have  been  in  train- 
ing for  centuries,  in  order  to  perfect 
their  social  code,  and  habit  has  made 
it  easy  for  them  to  do  and  to  say  the 
right  thing,  the  graceful  thing.  It  is 
so  easy,  in  fact,  that  many  an  harassed 
American,  uncomfortably  conscious  of 
his  gaucheries,  will  tell  you  that 
"Johnny  Crapaud"  is  insincere.  Per- 
haps the  actual  text  of  his  compliment 
may  be,  but  the  impulse  which  prompts 
him  to  wish  to  make  a  pleasant  im- 
pression is  quite  at  the  bottom  of  his 
character.  It  is  as  much  a  part  of  the 
graciousness  of  the  race  as  is  the  ex- 
treme care  of  a  French  hostess  to  in- 
clude a  stranger  in  every  conversation 
that  goes  on.  I  once  saw  a  young 
American  girl,  of  a  family  that  prided 
itself  on  its  position,  insist  on  talking 
in  German  to  an  officer  she  had  met  at 
a  small  dinner.  All  of  the  party  knew 
French,  and  French  obviously  should 
have  been  the  language  used,  but  it 
was  not,  for  the  selfish  reason  that  the 
young  woman  wished  to  control  the 
situation.  I  am  quite  sure  that  no 
young  French  girl  of  the  same  walk  in 


THIS  DAY 


273 


life,  would  ever  have  permitted  her- 
self such  a  lapse. 

Generations  of  breeding  tell,  and 
many  a  young  American,  carefully 
reared,  who  thinks  that  he  or  she  is  ob- 
serving all  the  requirements  of  "class," 
by  picking  up  a  dropped  handkerchief, 
or  remembering  to  open  a  door  for  an 
older  woman,  has  already  scandalized 
the  good  lady  by  failing  to  keep  a  dinner 
or  a  tea  engagement,  because  something 
more  interesting  presented  itself. 

These  are  the  lacks  of  tact  which  are 
meant  when  the  precise  and  critical 
French  speak  of  ''les  mceurs  Ameri- 
cains."  Our  intercourse  is  too  sum- 
mary a  business  ever  to  please  them. 
Their  formalities,  their  conventionali- 
ties are,  perhaps,  a  little  cumbersome 
to  us  who  are  more  spontaneous,  but 
they  are  parts  of  a  very  fine  and  com- 
plicated social  mechanism,  and  one 
that  runs  on  well-oiled  wheels.  If 
once  you  learn  the  rules,  you  cannot 
make  mistakes,  and,  in  the  end,  it  be- 
comes second  nature  to  keep  things 
going  smoothly. 

After    all,    the    basic    principles    of 


"good  form"  must  be  pretty  much  the 
same  the  world  over.  We  may  differ 
in  the  details,  in  the  way  we  hold  our 
soup  spoons,  or  the  order  in  which  we 
use  our  forks.  It  may  be  difficult  for 
an  American  to  look  upon  a  man  who 
tucks  his  napkin  under  his  chin  as  a 
"perfect  gentleman;"  but  on  the  other 
hand  the  French  consider  the  ostenta- 
tious American  habit  of  raising  a  nap- 
kin to  hide  the  operation  of  picking 
one's  teeth  the  height  of  vulgarity. 
So  there  you  are! 

There  can  be  no  two  opinions,  how- 
ever, as  to  whether  or  not  a  guest  shall 
be  made  comfortable  by  every  means 
in  a  hostess'  power,  and,  in  the  last 
analysis,  the  primary  rule  of  true  po- 
liteness is  as  old  as  our  civiUzation, 
and  it  is  summed  up  in  that  fine 
scriptural  text  known  as  the  "Golden 
Rule."  If  we  add  to  the  Eastern  con- 
ception of  our  "duty  to  our  neighbor" 
a  little  Continental  refinement,  adminis- 
tered with  American  whole-heartedness, 
we  ought  to  arrive  at  an  almost  perfect 
formula  for  a  social  manner  that  would 
fit  all  tastes  under  all  conditions. 


This  Day 

By  Ruth  Raymond 

This  day  is  not  my  own  I  know, 

Though  skies  are  blue  and  earth  is  fair, 
O'er  pleasant  paths  I  long  to  go, 

Still  shunning  grief  and  want  and  care; 
But  there  are  stricken  ones  who  need 

My  strength  of  arm,  my  cheering  smile, 
Their  call  for  help  I  well  should  heed, 

Nor  let  one  selfish  thought  beguile'. 


This  day  is  not  my  own  I  know, 

For  God  each  hour  to  me  has  lent, 
'That  I  may  ease  another's  woe, 

Living  the  while  in  sweet  content; 
Forgetting  self  while  growing  strong  ^ 

To  succor  those  who  sadly  moan, 
To  aid  the  good,  defeat  the  wrong, 

This  day  so  full  has  quickly  flown. 


Miss  Eversham's  Rug 

By  Frances  C^^iipbell   Sparhawk 


PART  I 


YES,  it's  the  right  size,  and  very 
pretty.  But  I'm  not  quite 
sure  I  Hke  it  better  than  any 
other  at  that  price."  And  Miss  Ever- 
sham  put  her  head  a  Httle  on  one  side 
in  a  judicial  manner  and  surve3^ed  one 
of  the  rugs  displayed  upon  the  floor  of 
the  great  establishment.  She  had  not 
absolutely  decided  upon  choosing  it. 
She  thought  it  the  handsomest  that  she 
had  seen  anywhere  with  one  exception; 
that  one  was  at  another  store.  She 
would  go  and  take  a  second  look  at  it; 
and  if  she  found  that  she  preferred  this 
one,  she  would  come  back  and  buy  it. 

That  m.oming  she  had  sat  meditative 
in  her  drawing-room,  her  eyes  fixed 
upon  the  rug  in  the  middle  of  the  floor 
thei:©.  She  had  just  come  in  from 
making  a  deposit  upon  her  bank 
account. 

"It's  really  very  shabby  —  very 
shabby  indeed,  although  it  was  hand- 
some and  expensive  once  and  shows 
its  aristocratic  origin,  even  in  its  deca- 
dence," she  had  said  .to  herself,  studying 
the  rug.  "It's  quite  time  to  buy  a  new 
one,  now  that  I  can  do-^t."  How  very 
long  she  had  worked  —  twelve  years 
of  hard  and  constant  toil  and  dis- 
appointment. She  had  known  hard- 
ship; there  had  even  been  days,  and 
not  few  of  them,  when  she  had  not  had 
enough  to  eat.  Now,  remembering 
these,  she  smiled  down  at  the  little 
book  in  her  hand.  Any  person  of 
wealth  would  have  laughed  at  the 
amount  it  stood  for ;  but  to  her  it  meant 
relief  from  present  strain,  and  some- 
thing over. 

When  Elinor  Eversham  was  ten  her 
mother  had  died.  Her  father  had  failed 
and  died  suddenly  when  she  was  a  girl 
of  seventeen.  Elinor  was  an  only 
child.     Then  the  struggle  had  begun. 


Her  talent,  which  was  great,  must  earn 
her  a  livelihood ;  she  knew  that  she  had 
ability  to  become  an  illustrator  and  the 
work  was  a  joy  to  her.  She  had  made 
her  way  through  a  well-known  art 
school,  had  received  a  few  lessons  from 
a  famous  illustrator  who  had  encour- 
aged her,  had  persevered  in  the  face  of 
obstacles  which  would  have  discouraged 
others  with  fuller  purses  and  less  brave 
hearts. 

But  her  reward  was  coming.  A 
leading  publishing  house,  after  having 
tested  her  skill  in  a  small  way,  had 
given  her  a  book  by  a  writer  of  wide 
reputation  to  illustrate.  The  author 
was  abroad,  and  would  not  return  until 
too  late  to  be  consulted;  the  book 
would  be  in  press;  he  had  left  the 
matter  to  his  publishers.  They  had 
left  it  to  Miss  Eversham,  to  see  what 
she  could  do.  Because  they  believed 
in  her,  and  because  the  author  would 
have  to  accept  what  she  gave  him.  Miss 
Eversham  had  been  inspired  to  do  her 
best.  And  she  had  done  it.  With  her 
check  from  the  publishing  house  had 
come  the  statement  that  her  work  had 
been  satisfactory. 

Behind  this  praise,  also,  had  seemed  to 
Elinor  Eversham  the  promise  of  work 
for  an  indefinite  time  —  of  success. 
Perhaps  she  had  already  succeeded. 
For  the  publishers  had  said  that  they 
should  like  to  have  her  illustrate 
another  book  for  them,  and  that  Mr. 
Parker,  one  of  the  firm,  would,  if  agree- 
able to  her,  give  himself  the  pleasure 
of  calling  upon  her  in  a  few  days  to 
talk  the  matter  over.  To  come  to  her 
in  place  of  sending  for  her  was,  she 
knew,  a  most  unusual  concession.  Did 
it  really  mean  success?  She  must 
gather  together  her  forces  to  meet 
business  with  business,  to  do  her  very 


274 


MISS  EVERSHAM'S  RUG 


275 


best  to  make  him  believe  that  she 
knew  everything,  that  she  could  do 
anything  desired  of  her;  and  she 
could,  or  she  would  learn  by  the  way 
how  to  do  it. 

This  thought,  as  she  had  sat  that 
morning  in  the  room  to  which  the 
stranger  would  come,  had  brought  her 
back  to  its  appearance.  All  the  fur- 
niture was  worn ;  but  nothing  was  really 
bad,  except  the  rug.  She  was  not  a 
worldly  wise  woman;  but  she  under- 
stood that  it  would  not  be  well  to  seem 
in  the  eyes  of  the  publisher,  when  he 
should  come  for  his  business  interview, 
as  if  she  had  no  money  before  her  work 
for  him  had  given  it  to  her. 

But  if  she  were  really  going  to  buy 
a  new  rug,  why  not  do  it  now,  this  very 
morning  ? 

She  had  pulled  up  her  wrap  and 
drawn  on  her  gloves  again,  and  going 
to  the  next  comer  had  taken  a  car 
down  town  and  was 'soon  in  the  large 
establishment  from  which  she  was  more 
than  half  inclined  to  select  her  rug  at 
once,  for  she  thought  that  she  really 
preferred  the  one  before  her  to  that  in 
the  other  store.  Yet  it  was  well  to 
make  sure;  for  such  a  purchase  was  of 
moment  to  her. 

With  head  a  little  higher  than  her 
wont  and  a  half  smile  on  her  lips,  she 
walked  the  length  of  the  great  room 
toward  the  elevator. 

"And  so  tomorrow  he's  going  to 
have  her  arrested  for  debt,"  said  a  girl's 
sobbing  voice  behind  her. 

Miss  Eversham  turned.  The  speaker 
and  a  companion  of  about  her  own  age 
—  fourteen  —  were  standing  against 
the  wall  behind  a  counter  at  the  mo- 
ment deserted.  The  first,  believing 
herself  unobserved,  had  been  crying 
hard. 

Miss  Eversham  liked  her  face.  She 
glanced  around  her.  The  clerk  who 
had  been  showing  her  the  rugs  was 
busy  putting  these  away  again.  The 
three  were  still  unobserved.  She  went 
up   to   the   two    girls.      "You   are   in 


trouble,  my  dear  child,"  she  said  to 
the  one  who  had  spoken.  "Can  I  help 
you  in  any  way?"  And  she  laid  a  kind 
touch  upon  her  shoulder. 

The  girl,  who  had  again  buried  her 
face  in  her  hands  and  begun  to  sob 
afresh,  looked  up  in  amazement. 

"What,  ma'am?"  she  asked,  be- 
wildered by  the  unexpected  attention, 
and  embarrassed  at  being  caught  in  an 
abandonment  to  grief  contrary  to  her 
duties. 

"What  is  the  matter,  dear  child?" 
repeated  Miss  Eversham,  her  first  good 
impression  strengthened  as  she  met  the 
sad  eyes  looking  into  hers.  "I  can't 
bear  to  hear  you  sobbing  so.  I  shall  be 
glad  if  I  can  do  anything  for  you. 
Can't  you  tell  me  what  the  trouble  is? " 

But  the  other  stood  still  abashed. 
Yet  it  seemed  to  her  questioner  that 
she  was  trying  to  break  the  silence, 
and  Miss  Eversham  attempted  to  help 
her.  "You  said  something  about  some 
one  being  arrested  tomorrow?"  she 
asked. 

"Oh,  yes!"  cried  the  girl,  and  her 
tears  started  again.  "My  mother! 
She  always  pays.  She  would  pay  this 
bill  if  the  man  would  only  give  her  time. 
But  he  won't.  It's  a  provision  bill.  We 
had  to  eat,  you  know;  and  for  a  month 
and  more  mother  couldn't  get  any 
work,  and  my  wages  had  to  go  for  the 
rent.  That's  why  we're  so  behind  with 
the  bill.  Mother's  got  work  now;  and 
she  only  needs  time  to  pay  up  by 
degrees;  but  he  will  have  the  whole  of 
it  right  straight  off,  or  she  will  be 
arrested.  And  then  she'll  lose  the  work 
she's  just  got.  The  horrid  man  won't 
make  anything  out  of  being  so  cruel!" 
And  the  tears  that  had  been  gathering 
in  her  eyes,  as  she  spoke,  rolled  down 
her  cheeks.  "I  ought  not  to  cry,"  she 
said.  "If  they  see  me,  I'm  afraid  I 
shall  lose  my  place,  too.  But  I  just 
can't  help  it.  We've  gone  hungry 
many  a  day,  not  to  make  the  bill  so  big ; 
but  we  had  to  have  something,  and 
mother  said  she  was  sure  to  make  it  all 


276 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


right.  But  he  won't  give  us  any  time," 
repeated  the  girl.  Suddenly  she  choked 
back  her  sobs  and  wiped  her  eyes  as 
she  saw  the  floor  walker  in  the  distance. 

Miss  Eversham's  glance  followed 
hers.  The  man  was  not  coming  their 
way. 

"What  is  3^our  name?"  she  asked. 

"AHce  Miller,"  returned  the  child. 

"And  will  you  tell  me  how  much 
your  mother  owes  —  how  much  this 
bill  is,  I  mean?"  added  Miss  Eversham 
with  a  vague  feeling  that  perhaps 
something  might  be  done,  she  did  not 
know  what. 

When  the  girl  named  the  amount, 
Miss  Eversham  started.  It  was  almost 
to  a  dollar  the  price  of  her  rug. 

"  But  what  of  that  ? "  said  her  vanity, 
reminding  her  of  how  much  she  had 
deprived  herself,  how  long  she  had 
suffered,  how  well  she  knew  what  it 
was  to  be  hungry,  and,  especially,  how 
her  business  interests  demanded  that 
she  make  a  good  appearance  when  she 
came  to  discuss  business  matters.  Of 
course,  somebody  ought  to  help  the 
poor  woman  out;  but  that  somebody 
ought  to  be  a  richer  person  than  she 
herself  was.  She  absolutely  must  have 
her  rug;  and  she  could  not  afford  to 
risk  as  much  as  the  price  of  it  in  a 
debt  almost  sure  to  be  bad  and  very 
certain  to  be  slow  —  no,  she  could  not 
do  this,  if  she  bought  the  rug. 

If  she  bought  the  rug! 

If  she  did  not  buy  it,  she  would  sacri- 
fice a  business  interest;  for  her  room 
would  undoubtedly  look  shabby,  when 
it  ought  to  bespeak  comfortable  means. 

If  she  bought  it,  a  pretty  room  at  the 
cost  of  —  what  ?  She  was  angry  with 
herself,  because  the  suggestion  about 
buying  the  whole  world  and  losing  one's 
own  soul  came  into  her  mind.  What 
had  she  to  do  with  that  here  ?  She  was 
not  responsible  for  Mrs.  Miller's  debts. 
Couldn't  the  woman  borrow  money  of 
somebody  —  of  somebody  else  ? 

She  put  the  question. 

"There's  nobody  to  borrow  it  of," 


answered  Alice  sadly.  "  She  tried  to  get 
the  lady  she  works  for  to  advance  it  to 
her;  but  she  wouldn't;  and  mother  was 
afraid,  if  she  said  anything  more,  she'd 
be  turned  out  of  that  work  —  though 
it  wouldn't  make  any  difference,"  she 
added,  "because,  when  she's  arrested, 
she'll  lose  it  all  anyway,  she  knows  she 
will,  and  so  do  I."  As  she  spoke  she 
looked  at  Miss  Eversham,  and  there  was 
a  beseeching  in  her  eyes  hard  for  the 
other  to  resist.  "Do  3"ou  know  of 
anybody  that  would  lend  her  the 
money?"  she  added  eagerly.  "She'd 
be  sure  to  pay  back  every  cent.  We 
always  pay,  but  we  have  to  have  time, 
^ly  mother's  got  a  good  chance  for 
w^ork  now,"  she  went  on,  "  and  it  seems 
too  hard  to  have  this.  Do  you  know 
of  anybody?"  she  repeated,  watching 
the  lady  before  her "  with  an  anxiety 
pathetic  in  one  so  young. 

"I  am  trying^  to  think,"  returned 
Miss  Eversham.  And  she  questioned 
the  girl  about  her  circumstances,  and 
how  things  had  come  to  be  so  hard  with 
her  mother  and  herself. 

It  was  the  famiHar  story.  A  father 
with  a  comfortable  income  had  lived 
to  the  extent  of  it,  had  been  stricken 
with  illness  and  had  died  after  long 
suffering.  Even  during  his  illness  the 
struggle  with  necessity  had  begun,  and 
had  been  kept  up  for  years.  In  listen- 
ing, Elinor  Eversham  felt  as  if,  with 
certain  variations,  she  might  have  been 
listening  to  her  own  experience.  And 
as  the  child  went  on  talking,  it  was 
more  to  the  voices  in  her  own  heart 
than  to  the  girl's  eager  tones  that 
Elinor  was  listening  —  to  questions, 
questions,  questions  thrown  at  her, 
hurled  at  her,  shouting  in  the  ears  of 
her  soul  and  refusing  to  be  silenced 
without  an  answer.  Was  she  her 
brother's  keeper?  Yes,  surely,  yes. 
Was  she  to  ask  of  another  what  she 
herself  could  and  Avould  not  do?  Was 
she  to  be  priest?  or  Levite?  or  Sa- 
maritan to  the  poor  woman  wounded 
by  life's  way?     She  was  indignant  at 


CRADLE  SONG 


277 


the  choice  thus  forced  upon  her;  she 
told  herself  in  anger  that  she  who  had 
borne  so  much  ought  not  to  have  to 
endure  the  loss  that  her  choice  would 
mean  to  herself.  But  she  saw  that  she 
would  have  to  do  it. 

"I  will  see  your  mother,  Alice,"  she 
said  at  last,  and  got  from  the  girl  the 
address.  After  she  had  written  it  on  a 
bit  of  paper  that  she  found  in  her 
pocketbook,  she  looked  at  AUce  Miller 
steadily  for  a  moment. 

"Have  I  ever  seen  you  an}n\^here 
before?"  she  asked. 

"No,  ma'am,"  returned  the  girl  in 
wonder.    ' '  Why  ? '  * 

"  It  seems  as  if  I  had,"  answered  Miss 
Eversham.  "  But  it's  nothing,  of  course." 

"Are  you  going  to  see  my  mother, 
ma'am?"  asked  AHce. 

"Yes,  I  am  going,"  returned  the 
other  wearily. 

"Oh,  I'm  so  glad!  I'm  so  gladi" 
cried  the  child.  Her  tears  were  dried. 
A  smile  shone  out  on  the  little  face 
that  seemed  made  for  smiles. 

But  Miss  Eversham  did  not  smile. 
Her  head,  which  a  few  minutes  before 
had  been  lifted  in  the  joy  of  a  new  and 


prized  possession,  was  bent  now  as 
with  slow  steps  she  left  the  store  and 
turned  in  the  direction  of  Mrs.  Miller's 
home.  Of  course,  she  would  lend  —  or 
give  —  the  poor  woman  the  money ; 
she  ought  to  be  ashamed  not  to  do  it 
gladly.  On  the  contrary,  she  was  still 
even  angry  at  the  compulsion  under 
which  she  felt  herself. 

When  she  had  cHmbed  the  steep 
stairs  and  knocked  at  the  door  of  the 
room  in  which  Mrs.  Miller  and  AHce 
were  lodging,  she  tried,  as  she  stood 
waiting,  to  put  her  errand  into  suitable 
words  and  to  see  how  she  could  learn 
the  whole  story  without  seeming  to 
intrude  upon  the  woman's  private 
affairs. 

But  when  the  door  opened,  all  that 
she  had  planned  to  say  deserted  her. 

For  the  woman  who  stood  there 
reminded  her  still  more  than  Alice  had 
done  of  some  one  she  had  seen  before, 
she  could  not  for  the  moment  tell  where 
or  when. 

In  Mrs.   Miller's  mind,  however,  as 
she  stood  an  instant  gazing,  open-eyed, 
at  her  visitor,  was  no  such  doubt. 
[To  be  continued.] 


Cradle   Song 

By  Ruth  Raymond 


Hush  thee  baby,  night  is  near, 
One  bright  star  is  shining  clear, 
Now  the  moon  a  silver  bow- 
Hangs  above  our  cottage  low; 
Hush  thee  baby,  close  thine  eyes, 
Darker  grow  the  evening  skies. 


Hush  thee  baby,  mother  knows 
Way  to  land  of  sweet  repose, 
She  will  guide  thee  safely  there 
Over  poppy  blossoms  fair; 
Hush  thee  baby,  sleep  and  dream 
While  the  stars  above  thee  gleam. 


Hush  thee  baby,  wondrous  sweet 
Are  thy  dimpled  hands  and  feet. 
Wondrous  dear  thy  simny  face. 
Pure  and  perfect  in  its  grace: 
Sleep,  O  sleep,  the  whole  night  long 
Shining  angels  round  thee  throng. 


278 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


THE 

BOSTON     COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 


if  they  do  not  find  their  place  in  one 
line  of  activit}^  they  will  find  it  in  an- 
other, and  all  the  easier  because  of  a 
liberal  education." 


Culinary   Science   and    Domestic    Economies 
Janet  McKenzie  Hill,  Editor 

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Entered  at  Boston  Post-office  as  second-class  matter 


COLLEGE  EDUCATION 
"  '^  yl'UCH  nonsense  is  talked  about 
^^Vl  the  influence  of  a  college 
'  -^  ^  -^  education  on  the  training 
of  3'oung  women  for  domestic  life. 
Whatever  increases  the  intelligence 
of  a  boy  or  girl  increases  the  pro- 
babilty  of  usefulness.  The  ordinaiy 
experience  of  a  debutante,  who  rushes 
through  a  series  of  costly  festivities 
during  two  or  three  years,  and  then 
takes  her  place  as  a  wallflower,  is  much 
more  ruinous  than  the  probable  effect 
of  any  college  course.  A  girl  who 
is  true-hearted,  simple-minded,  affec- 
tionate and  willing  to  work  will  find 
her  place  in  Hfe  all  the  easier  because 
her  mind  has  been  expanded  by  in- 
tellectual occupations..  Man}"  bo3^s  are 
spoiled  for  business,  it  is  said,  and  for 
journalism  by  the  college  course;  but. 


INCIDENT  TO  THE  SEASON 

WE  do  not  desire  to  urge  any 
one  who  does  not  want  a 
home  science  or  culinary 
publication  to  subscribe  to  this  maga- 
zine. We  do  want  the  good  house- 
keeper ever3'where,  who  wishes  to 
improve,  to  become  acquainted  with 
the  most  reliable  periodical  that  is 
devoted  exclusively^  to  her  special 
needs;  for  we  are  confident  she  will  be 
pleased  and  profited  by  the  same. 

We  are  pleased  to  mail  a  specimen 
copy  of  the  magazine  to  any  address 
mailed  to  us  in  request.  The  recipient 
after  examination  can  decide  for  herself, 
and  without  bias,  to  subscribe  or  not 
to  subscribe  at  pleasure. 

We  are  carrying  on  our  list  of  sub- 
scribers the  most  intelligent  house- 
keepers in  many  States,  the  best  home- 
makers  in  the  world.  This  is  said 
advisedly  after  inspection  and  com- 
parison by  experts  of  our  list  \vit\\ 
others.  A  large  percentage  of  our 
readers  renew  their  subscription  from 
year  to  year.  In  fact,  we  find  from 
the  experience  of  many  years,  that  the 
good  housewife,  young  or  old,  ex- 
perienced or  inexperienced,  who  needs 
the  inspiration  and  help  of  a  culinary 
publication  at  all,  wants  the  Cooking- 
School  Magazine,  and  such  as  these 
are  the  people  we  are  anxious  to  reach. 

CONGENIAL  OCCUPATION. 

A  FIRST  need  of  every  indi- 
vidual, even  a  child,  is  occu- 
pation. Idleness  leads  to  men- 
tal, moral  and  physical  degeneration. 
Young  people,  especiall3^  should  be 
diligently  engaged  in  useful  callings. 
For  this  means  not  onl}^  physical  and 
moral  well-being,  but  also  peace  and 
contentment  in  life.  Would  that  it 
might  be  said  that  desirable  places  are 


EDITORIALS 


279 


held  in  waiting  for  occupants.  But 
only  they  who  have  been  out  of  a 
"job"  know  how  difficult  it  is  today  to 
find  or  make  a  position  in  which  the 
very  necessities  of  Ufe,  as  food,  clothing 
and  shelter,  can  be  earned. 

Hence  the  tendency  in  school  and 
college  to  pay  more  attention  to  vo- 
cational courses  is  prudent  and  com- 
mendable. The  conditions  of  modem 
Hfe  demand  readjustment  and  adapta- 
tion of  methods  in  our  school  systems 
to  present-day  needs.  "  Xew  occasions 
teach  new  duties."  The  transition 
from  school  Hfe  to  earning  a  Hvelihood 
is  now  too  abrupt  and  distressful ;  to  not 
a  few  youth  the  prospect  seems  often 
wellnigh  discouraging. 

To  be  sure  young  women  are  engag- 
ing in .  a  larger  number  of  occupations 
than  ever  before.  Perhaps  the  op- 
portunities of  the  young  woman  are 
even  better  than  those  of  the  young 
man.  At  any  rate,  it  seems  to  us  that 
in  no  line  of  effort  are  there  so  many 
and  so  desirable  opportunities  open  for 
useful  employment  as  in  woman's 
special  field  of  endeavor.  Home  Science. 
Here  earnest,  skillful  women  are  always 
in  demand.  The  matter  of  food  and 
feeding  alone,  for  instance,  is  a  tre- 
mendous proposition.  The  results  of 
faithful  effort  in  healthful  economic 
feeding  are  a  far-reaching  and  sure 
good. 

From  a  late  number  of  The  Philistine 
we  quote  the  following  expression  of 
the  truth  we  have  in  mind: 

"Hoodlumism  springs  naturally  into 
being,  like  ever^^hing  else,  when  the 
conditions  are  ripe.  The  right  condi- 
tions are  idleness  and  a  lack  of  incen- 
tive toward  a  hfe  of  usefulness. 

"It  is  said  the  people  talk  gossip  in 
the  country,  but  gossip  is  only  the  lack 
of  a  worthy  theme.  Having  nothing 
else  to  talk  about,  folks  turn  and  talk 
of  each  other;  and  if  they  rend  charac- 
ters and  rip  reputations  up  the  back, 
it  is  only  a  sign  of  mental  poverty.  Get 
a  man  interested  in  poetry,  art,  soci- 


olog>',  and  he  talks  of  these.  Set  him 
to  work  at  some  useful  employment 
that  calls  into  being  his  higher  faculties 
—  the  love  of  harmon}^  proportion, 
color  —  and  his  mind  will  revolve 
around  these  things,  and  of  these  will 
he  converse. 

' '  The  cure  for  hoodlumism  is  manual 
training,  and  an  industrial  condition 
that  will  give  the  boy  or  girl  work  — 
congenial  work  — ■  a  fair  wage,  and  a 
share  in  the  honors  of  making  things. 
Salvation  lies  in  the  Froebel  methods 
carried  into  manhood.  You  encourage 
the  man  in  well  doing  by  taking  the 
things  he  makes,  the  product  of  hand 
and  brain,  and  pay  him  for  them.  Sup- 
ply a  practical,  worthy  ideal,  and  your 
hoodlum  spirit  is  gone  —  and  gone 
forever.  You  have  awakened  the  man 
to  a  higher  life  —  the  life  of  art  and 
usefulness;  3'ou  have  bound  him  to 
his  race  and  made  him  brother  to  his 
kind.  The  world  is  larger  for  him;  he 
is  doing  something,  doing  something 
useful  —  making  things  that  people 
want." 

THE  DEARTH  OF  COLLEGE  LIFE 

COMPLAINT  comes  from  the  stu- 
dent organ  of  a  neighboring  college 
for  women  that  the  atmosphere 
of  the  institution  is  not  intellectual. 
And  pray,  where  was  the  editress  of  the 
organ  in  question  bom,  bred  and  pre- 
pared for  her  academic  course,  that 
she  expects  a  college,  whether  for 
women  or  for  men,  to  have  an  intellec- 
tual atmosphere?  To  stand  well  in 
one's  studies  is  to  incur  the  contempt- 
uous title  "grind,"  and  this  fact  is 
as  true  of  the  preparatory  schools 
as  of  the  colleges.  Literary  societies 
in  our  schools  of  the  higher  learn- 
ing are  giving  way  before  purely  so- 
cial organizations,  and  education  is 
in  the  main  unrelated  to  any  of  the 
fine  arts  except  literature,  while  even 
that  is  approached,  not  as  a  fine  art, 
but  as  a  science.  How  many  stu- 
dents   in    college    or    the    preparatory 


280 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


schools  are  reading  works  proper  to 
literature  for  any  purpose  beyond 
the  winning  of  points,  or  the  ac- 
quisition of  such  a  technical  acquaint- 
ance with  the  history  and  mechanism 
of  literature  as  shall  enable  them  to 
teach  it  after  the  same  deadly  fashion 
to  the  youth  of  the  future?  How 
many  groups  of  girls  or  boys  sit  up  at 
night  to  talk  over  the  charms  of  mas- 
ters new  or  old?  How  many  students 
within  an  hour  of  the  Boston  Museum 
of  Fine  Arts  habitually  visit  that 
most  civilized  spot  in  all  New  England, 
except  when  such  visits  are  required 
as  part  of  the  college  grind?  How 
many  college  societies  exist  for  the 
furthering  of  musical  culture  among 
their  members?  Where  is  there  found 
leisure  in  college  life,  from  the  grind 
on  one  hand  or  athletics  or  other  dis- 
tractions on  the  other,  for  devotion 
to  the  things  that  make  for  culture, 
for  the  graces  of  speech, deportment  and 
address,  for  the  things  that  are  lovely 
and  of  good  report  ?  —  The  Herald. 

THE  NEW  VIEW 

OUR  fundamental  purpose  is  the 
more  complete  attainment  of 
the  new  view.  If  that  appear 
vague  and  indefinite,  and  a  skeptical 
reader  still  ask,  The  new  view  of  what  ? 
we  reply  roundly,  The  new  view  of 
life;  the  new  view  of  the  common 
welfare;  the  new  view  of  industrial 
and  social  forces;  the  new  view  of 
childhood,  of  womanhood  and  man- 
hood; the  new  view  of  housing  as  the 
basis  of  domestic  life;  the  new  view  of 
industrial  occupations  ■  and  the  condi- 
tions under  which  they  are  carried  on; 
the  new  view  of  misery  and  crime  and 
disease  as  eradicable;  the  new  view  of 
charity,  of  reformation,  of  discipline, 
of  human  society;  the  new  view  of 
work,  of  recreation,  of  neighborhood; 
and,  at  last,  the  new  view,  prophetic 
though  it  be,  of  a  social  order  in  which 
ancient  wrongs  shall  be  righted,  new 
corruptions    foreseen    and    prevented, 


the  nearest  approach  to  .  equality  of 
opportunity  assured,  and  the  indfvidual 
rediscovered  under  conditions  vastly 
more  favorable  for  his  highest  useful- 
ness to  his  fellows  and  for  the  highest 
development  of  all  his  powers. 

Edward  Thomas  Devinp:. 

NOTICE 

WE  have  been  informed  by  the 
Post  Office  that,  as  a  result 
of  a  recent  railroad  wreck  in 
New  York  State,  some  copies  of  the 
Cooking-School  Magazine  were  too 
much  mutilated  to  be  delivered.  On 
receipt  of  request,  we  will  mail  a 
duplicate  copy  to  all  subscribers  who 
have  failed  to  receive  their  December 
number. 


The  china  bonbon  dishes  shown  on 
table,  page  281,  are  presented  by  the 
courtesy  of  Jones,  McDuffee  &  Stratton 
Co.,  Franklin  Street,  this  city. 

In  making  a  renewal  of  her  sub- 
scription, recently,  a  woman  writes: 
"I  consider  this  the  best-spent  dollar 
of  the  year." 

Do  not  fail  to  renew  your  own  sub- 
scription ;  it  means  health  and  economy. 


They  who  are  best  qualified  to  have 
and  enjoy  the  things  that  money  can 
buy  are  those  who  are  best  equipped 
with  the  things  that  money  cannot  buy. 


There  was  the  Proof 

The  visitor  rang  the  bell  and  the 
door  was  opened  by  five  wild-eyed 
youngsters  who  were  towing  the  house 
cat  around  by  a  gas  hose. 

"I  heard  that  your  mamma  was  up 
at  the  mothers'  congress  delivering  a 
lecture  on  'How  to  Raise  Children,.' 
anricmnced  the  visitor.     "Am  I  right?" 

The  oldest  boy  pointed  to  the  over- 
turned chairs,  the  scratched  wall  paper 
and  the  broken  table,  and  said  simply, 
"Gee,  don't  it  look  like  it?" 


Table  Laid  for  Dinner.  Served  Russian  Style 

(.See  Menu  I.  Back  of  Frontispiece) 


Seasonable  Recipes 

By  Janet  M.  Hill 

TX  all  recipes  where  flour  is  used,  unless  otherwise  stated,  the  flour  is  measured  after  sifting 
once.   Where  flour  is  measured  by  cups,  the  cup  is  filled  with  a  spoon,  and  a  level  cupful 
is  meant.    A  tablespoonful  or  a  teaspoonful  of  any  designated  material  is  a  level  spoonful 
of  such  material. 


Caviare  Medallions 

CUT  cold,  boiled  potatoes  into 
slices  one-fourth  an  inch  thick; 
from  these  stamp  out  rounds 
the  size  of  a  silver  dollar,  and  marinate 
in  oil  and  vinegar.  Wipe  the  oil  from 
anchovies  put  up  in  oil,  then  divide 
each  into  three  lengthwise  strips;  set 
these  on  the  edge  of  the  potato  rounds, 
and  fill  the  center  with  pickled  beet- 
root, chopped  fine;  above  the  bee?-root 
set  a  half  teaspoonful  of  caviare.  Fin- 
ish with  a  tiny  figure  cut  from  cooked 
white  of  egg.  Set  these  in  a  circle  on 
a  servinor  dish.     Make  other  medallions, 


using  rounds  of  beet-root  as  the  founda- 
tion, and  chopped  white  of  egg  in  place 
of  the  chopped  beet-root;  finish  the 
same  as  the  first  medallions;  dispose 
these  in  the  center  of  the  dish.  Make 
other  medallions  with  beet  or  potato 
as  the  foundation  and  sifted  yolk  of 
egg  (cooked)  in  the  center,  and  dispose 
on  the  plate.  Garnish  the  plate  with 
stuffed  olives  and  parsley.  Have  these 
passed  as  the  first  course  at  luncheon  or 
at  a  chafing-dish  supper. 


Guinea  Hen's  Eggs  a   la  Christiana 

Have   as  many   rounds  of  buttered 
toast  (two  and  one-half  inches  in  diame- 


281 


2S2 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


ter)  as  there  are  individuals  to  serve, 
also  an  equal  number  of  hard-cooked 
eggs.  If  guinea  hen's  eggs  are  not 
available,  pullet's  eggs  will  answer.  Cut 
a  shoe  from  one  end  of  each  egg,  that 
it  ma}'  stand  level.  Butter  the  toast 
while  hot,  to  keep  it  soft.  When  cold 
spread  with  pate  de  foie  gras,  and  set 
an  egg  on  each  round.  The  eggs 
should  be  thoroughly  chilled.  Put  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  foie  gras  in  a  small 
saucepan;  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  truffle  trimmings  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  liquid  aspic  jell3^  Stir 
until   the   mixture   begins  to   thicken, 


Grape-Fruit  With   Po\vdered 
Sugar,  Etc. 

Prepare  the  grape-fruit  as  above,  but 
also  run  a  sharp  knife  between  the 
membrane  that  separated  the  sections 
and  the  skin,  so  that  all  unedible  mem- 
brane and  the  white  center  may  be 
lifted  out  in  one  piece.  Put  a  rounding 
teaspoonful  of  sifted  powdered  sugar 
in  the  center  of  each  half  of  fruit.  Fin- 
ish with  a  maraschino  cherry  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  the  liquid  from  the  bot- 
tle, or  use  a  tablespoonful  of  sherry 
wine. 


Pork  Chops,  Sweet  Potato  Puree,   Dinner  Style     (See  page  284) 


then  with  a  tablespoon  dip  it  over  the 
eggs,  to  cover  each  w4th  a  thin  coating. 
This  should  be  done  carefully  and  at 
the  right  moment,  to  avoid  covering 
the  rounds  of  toast.  Serve  as  a  first 
course  at  luncheon  or  supper. 

Grape-Fruit,  Plain  Service 

Cut  the  grape-fruit  into  halves,  cross- 
wise, to  form  two  portions.  Remove 
the  seeds.  With  a  thin,  sharp-pointed 
knife  cut  around  the  pulp  in  each  Httle 
section  of  the  fruit,  so  that  each  tri- 
angular section  of  pulp  may  be  Hfted 
out  with  an  orange  spoon  or  fork.  Set 
the  halves  of  fruit  on  plates.  A  lace- 
paper  doily  is  often  laid  between  the 
fruit  and  plate. 


Grape-Fruit  Cocktail 

Remove  the  sections  of  grape-fruit, 
prepared  as  in  preceding  recipes,  to  a 
bow4;  add  all  the  juice,  also,  if  desired, 
pieces  of  fresh  or  canned  pineapple, 
halves  of  skinned  and  seeded  white 
grapes,  sections  of  orange  cut  in  halves, 
or  pieces  of  choice  canned  pears  or 
peaches;  add  also  the  juice  of  the  va- 
rious fruits  and  sugar,  and,  if  desired, 
a  tablespoonful  (for  each  service)  of 
curacoa,  maraschino  or  sherry.  Let 
stand  to  become  chilled.  Serve  in 
glasses.  The  grape-fruit  should  pre- 
dominate over  the  other  fruits,  and,  of 
course,  may  be  used  without  other 
fruit. 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


283 


Swiss  Steak     (See  page  284) 


Soup  Nivernaise 

Slice  the  red  portion  of  six  carrots 
(one  pound  of  carrot  is  needed) ,  and  put 
over  the  fire  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  or  drip- 
ping; stir  and  cook  until  the  butter  is 
absorbed ;  add  two  cups  of  white  broth 
(chicken  or  veal)  and  one  cup  of  bread 
crumbs  (center  of  loaf) ,  and  let  simmer 
until  the  carrots  are  tender;  press 
through  a  fine  sieve;  add  broth  as 
needed  to  make  the  soup  of  a  proper 
consistency,  also  salt  and  pepper. 
Serve  with  small  bread  croutons  (cubes 
of  bread  browned  in  butter) . 

Pumpkin  Soup 

Let  a  quart  of  milk,  one  cup  of 
cooked  pumpkin,   one   stalk  of  celery 


and  two  slices  of  onion  cook  fifteen 
minutes  in  a  double  boiler.  Beat  three 
level  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  to  a 
cream;  gradually  beat  in  three  level 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt  and  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of 
paprika;  dilute  with  a  little  of  the  hot 
soup,  stir  until  smooth,  then  stir  into 
the  rest  of  the  soup;  stir  constantly 
until  the  soup  thickens  a  little,  then, 
occasionally,  while  cooking  ten  min- 
utes. Strain  into  four  plates.  Finish 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  whipped  cream 
on  each  plate. 

Fillets  of  Halibut,  Florentine  Style 

Remove  the  four  fillets  from  a  slice 
of  halibut,  cut  three-fourths  an  inch 
thick.  Put  the  bone  and  trimmings 
over  the  fire  with  two  slices  of  carrot, 
two  slices  of  onion,  half  a  teaspoonful 


Aviation  Bread     (See  page  285) 


284 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


of  sweet  basil  (dried) ,  a  branch  of  pars- 
ley and  cold  water  to  cover  the  whole, 
let  simmer  an  hour,  then  strain  the 
liquid  over  the  fillets.  Cover  and  let 
poach  (cook  gently)  in  the  oven  about 
ten  minutes.  Have  ready  a  buttered 
au  gratin  dish;  on  the  bottom  spread  a 
thin  layer  of  cooked-and-chopped  spin- 
ach, seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  plenty  of  butter,  about  three 
tablespoonfuls.  Set  the  fillets  above 
the  spinach.  There  should  be  one  cup 
or  less  of  the  fish  liquid.  If  more,  re- 
duce over  the  fire.  Melt  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter;  in  it   cook  three 


a  moderate  oven  and  let  cook  about  an 
hour,  pouring  off  the  fat  as  it  accumu- 
lates and  turning  the  chops  when  half 
cooked.  In  a  proper  oven  the  chops 
will  be  well  cooked  through  and  golden 
brown  on  the  edges.  Have  ready 
about  three  pounds  of  boiled  or  baked 
sweet  potatoes.  Press  the  pulp 
through  a  ricer  and  add  salt,  pepper, 
one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter  and  a  little 
hot  milk  if  needed.  Beat  thoroughly 
with  a  perforated  wooden  spoon.  Shape 
part  of  the  mixture  in  a  smooth  mound 
on  a  serving  dish,  and  dispose  the  chops 
against  and  around  it.     With  pastry 


Cranberry  Muffins     (See  page  286) 


tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  one-fourth 
a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt  and  paprika ; 
add  half  a  cup  of  cream  and  the  fish 
liquor  and  stir  until  it  boils ;  add  half  a 
cup  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  stir 
until  melted  and  pour  over  the  fish. 
Sprinkle  one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
cheese  over  the  sauce  and  let  cook  in  a 
hot  oven  long  enough  to  melt  the  cheese 
to  a  glaze.  Fillets  of  whitefish  (lake) 
or  of  cod  or  haddock  may  be  prepared 
in  the  same  manner.  If  a  whole  fish 
be  available,  the  head  and  trimmings 
will  insure  a  richer  and  better  sauce, 
and  thus  an  improved  dish  results. 

Pork  Chops,  Dinner  Style 
Have  eight  pork  chops  cut,  with  a 
rib  bone,  about  three-fourths  an  inch 
thick.     Set  in  a  large  frying  pan  into 


bag  and  star  tube  pipe  the  rest  of  the 
potato  upon  the  top  of  the  mound  and 
between  the  chops.  Surround  with 
thick  rounds  cut  from  cored-and-pared 
apples,  cooked  in  a  cup  of  sugar  and 
water  boiled  together. 

Swiss  Steak 

(Repeated  by  request) 

Select  a  slice  of  round  steak,  cut 
about  two  inches  thick.  A  steak  from 
the  top  of  the  round  is  preferable.  For 
a  small  family  half  of  the  slice  will 
suffice  for  two  meals.  A  full  slice  from 
heavy  beef  will  weigh  four  or  five 
pounds.  Pound  into  the  steak,  on 
both  sides,  as  much  flour  as  it  will  take 
up  (nearly  one  cup) .  The  pounding  is 
to  break  the  fibers  of  the  meat,  the 
flour  will  take  up  the  loosened  juices 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


285 


which  would  other- 
wise be  lost.  Brown 
the  meat  on  both  sides 
in  bacon  or  salt-pork 
fat,  cover  with  boiling 
water  and  let  simmer 
about  two  hours. 
Peel  an  onion  for  each 
person  to  be  served; 
let  cook  five  minutes 
in  boiling  water, 
drain,  rinse  in  cold 
water  and  set  to  cook 
around  the  meat.  If 
preferred  the  onions 
may  be  sliced  into  the  dish  before  the 
steak  is  put  into  it.  If  the  meat  is 
browned  in  an  iron  frying  pan,  finish 
the  cooking  in  an  earthen  dish.  The 
sauce  around  the  meat  is  thick  and 
brown.  Mushrooms  may  be  added  to 
it.  This  steak  may  be  served  on  a 
plank. 

Hot  Chicken  Sandwich,  Indienne 

Remove  the  flesh  from  the  bones  of 
cold  stewed  or  roast  chicken,  and  chop 
the  meat,  not  too  fine  (use  bowl  and 
knife).  Have  ready  rounds  of  toasted 
white  bread;  spread  these  with  butter 
and  then  generously  with  chicken  and 
press  together  in  pairs.  When  ready 
to  serve  pour  over  very  hot  chicken 
gravy.  Serve  with  cabbage  or  celery 
salad  or  stewed  cranberries.  In  making 
the  sauce  use  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful 
of  curry  powder  with  each  two  table- 
spoonfuls    of    flour.     The    better    the 


i!^^       :. 

M^^Jr^'^  "^  -.'^^  •"  "^ 

% 

^^ 

1 

Coffee  Rolls  from  Brioche 

chicken  broth  for  the  sauce,  the  better 
the  dish  will  be.  Baking  powder  bis- 
cuit, split  and  toasted,  may  replace 
the  bread.  English  muffins  may  also 
be  used. 

Aviation  Bread 

For  the  white  part,  soften  three- 
fourths  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast 
in  one-fourth  a  cup  of  water,  mix 
thoroughly  and  add  to  one  cup  of 
scalded  milk,  cooled  to  a  lukewarm 
temperature.  Add  also  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar, 
one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  about 
three  cups  of  white  flour.  Mix  with  a 
knife,  and  when  flour  enough  has  been 
worked  in,  turn  upon  a  floured  board 
and  knead  until  smooth  and  elastic. 
Cover  and  set  aside  to  become  light. 
For  the  Graham  part,  soften  one  and 
one-fourth  cakes  of  compressed  yeast 
in  one-fourth  a  cup  of  water  and  melt 


Brioche:  Process  of  Shaping  into  Coffee  Rolls     (See  page  289) 


286 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  cup  of 
scalded  milk;  when  cooled  to  a  luke- 
warm temperature  add  one-third  a  cup 
of  molasses,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
the  softened  yeast  with  the  water,  half 
a  cup  of  white  flour  and  sifted  Graham 
flour  to  form  a  dough  that  may  be 
kneaded.  When  smooth  and  elastic 
cover  and  set  to  rise.  When  the 
dough  in  both  bowls  has  doubled  in 
bulk,  cut.  down  and  shape  each  into  a 
loaf  that  will  fit  a  bread  pan.  With  a 
sharp  knife  cut  each  loaf  in  halves 
lengthwise.  Butter  two  bread  pans. 
Set  half  a  loaf  of  Graham  and  half  a 
loaf  of  white  dough  in  each  pan.    Press 


Persimmon  (Japanese)  Salad 

Beginning  at  the  blossom  end,  score 
the  skin  of  Japanese  persimmons  in 
straight  lines  nearly  to  the  stem  end; 
then  with  a  sharp-pointed  knife  loosen 
the  skin  from  the  pulp,  thus  forming 
petal  shapes.  Score  the  pulp  directly 
under  the  scorings  made  on  the  skin, 
and  cut  through  to  the  center,  thus 
partially  separating  the  fruit  into  sec- 
tions similar  to  the  sections  of  an 
orange.  Set  each  fruit  on  heart  leaves 
of  lettuce.  Bend  the  sections  of  peel 
(petals)  over  the  lettuce.  To  a  cup  of 
mayonnaise   dressing   add   about   one- 


Persimmon  Salad 


the  two  halves  together,  side  by  side 
or  one  above  the  other.  When  nearly 
doubled  in  bulk  bake  about  one  hour. 
The  Graham  bread  rises  more  slowly, 
hence  the  larger  quantity  of  yeast. 

Cranberry  Muffins 
Beat  one-third  a  cup  of  butter  to  a 
cream;  gradually  beat  in  one-fourth  a 
cup  of  sugar,  then  one  egg,  beaten 
light,  three-fourths  a  cup  of  milk  and 
two  cups  of  sifted  flour,  sifted  again 
with  two  rounding  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking  powder  and  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt.  When  well  mixed,  beat  in  one 
cup  of  cranberries,  cut  in  halves. 
Bake  about  twenty-five  minutes  in  a 
well-buttered  muffin  pan. 


third  a  cup  of  cream,  beaten  firm,  also 
a  few  grains,  each,  of  salt  and  paprika. 
Serve  the  dressing  in  a  bowl  apart. 

Apple-and-Cumquat  Salad 

Wash  the  cumquats  in  cold  water 
and  dry  each  one,  separately,  on  a  soft 
cloth,  to  clean  thoroughly.  Cut  the 
fruit  into  quarters,  lengthwise  through 
pulp  and  skin,  then  cut  the  quarters 
into  three  or  four  lengthwise  slices, 
discarding  the  seeds.  Cut  an  equal 
bulk  of  apples  into  match-like  pieces, 
and  pour  over  the  apple  (for  a  pint) 
two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon 
juice  in  which  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt  has  been  dissolved.  Pour  two 
or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  over  the 


SEASONABLE    RECIPES 


287 


Apple-and-Cumquat  Salad 


prepared  cumquat  and  toss  thoroughly; 
add  the  apple  and  toss  again.  Serve  on 
heart  leaves  of  lettuce,  washed  and  care- 
fully dried.  This  salad  may  be  served 
with  meats  or  with  bread  and  butter. 

Birthday  Cake,  Twenty-Fifth  Anni- 
versary (G.  G.) 

Beat  one  cup  of  butter  to  a  cream; 
gradually  beat  in  two  cups  and  one- 
half  of  sugar,  then,  alternately,  half 
a  cup  of  milk  and  two  cups  and  one- 
half  of  sifted  flour,  sifted  again  with 
two  level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  pow- 
der. Lastly,  add  the  beaten  whites  of 
eight  eggs  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
vanilla  extract.  Bake  in  two  layer 
cake  pans.  Put  the  layers  together 
with  tutti-frutti  filling.  Cover  the 
cake  with  boiled  frosting,  flavored 
with  grated  orange  rind,  and  sprinkle 
with  shredded  cocoanut. 


Tutti-Frutti  Fining  for  Cake 

Stone  and  chop  half  a  pound  of 
raisins;  cut  one-fourth  a  pound  of  cit- 
ron into  thin  slices  and  one-fourth  a 
pound  of  figs  into  small  pieces ;  blanch 
and  slice  one-fourth  a  pound  of  al- 
monds and  cut  half  a  pound  of  crystal- 
lized fruits  into  small  pieces;  squeeze 
over  these  the  juice  of  one  lemon.  Add 
one  pound  of  confectioners'  sugar 
(sifted)  and  enough  boiling  water  to 
make  a  paste  that  will  hold  its  shape. 

Candles  and  Candle  Holders  for 
Cake 

The  pink  candles  used  on  the  cake 
shown  in  the  illustration  were  about 
one-fourth  an  inch  thick  and  between 
two  and  three  inches  long.  Chopped 
pistachio  nuts  were  sprinkled  on  the 
frosting  around  the  candle  holders,  and 


Birthday  Cake  for  Twenty-Fifth  Anniversary 


2SS 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


small  pink  candies  (rose-flavored)  over     the  peach  and  around  the  same  pipe 
the  whole  frosting.  whipped  cream.     Serve  at  once. 


Oat  Flake  Wafers  (Anna  Arnold) 
Beat  three-fourths  a  cup  of  butter  to 
a  cream ;  gradually  beat  in  two  cups  of 
sugar,  then  two  cups  of  H.  O.  oatmeal, 
half  a  cup  of  boiling  water,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  one  teaspoonful  of 
soda  sifted  with  one  cup  of  flour. 
Mix  thoroughh^  adding  flour  as  is 
needed  to  make  a  dough.  Roll  very 
thin,  cut  in  squares  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven. 

Cream  Cheese  and  Preserved  Ginger 
Sandwiches 

Chop  preserved  stem  ginger  very 
fine;  add  syrup  from  the  jar  if  at  hand, 
if  not  use  sweet  cream.  Mix  the  ginger 
and  liquid  into  an  equal  bulk  of  cream 
cheese.  Spread  bread  prepared  for 
sandwiches  with  butter  and  then  with 
the  prepared  mixture.  Press  together 
in  pairs. 

Coupes  Venus 

Put  a  generous  spoonful  of  vanilla 
ice  cream  into  saucer  champagne 
glasses;  make  a  shallow  depression 
in  the  cream,  and  into  it  set  whole 
peaches,  cooked  in  syrup  flavored  with 
vanilla,  set  a  maraschino  cherry  above 


B 


anana 


Mush 


Remove  the  skins  from  three  bananas, 
scrape  with  a  silver  knife  to  remove 
coarse  threads,  etc.  Press  through  a 
ricer  into  an  agate  boiler;  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  one-fourth  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  one-fourth  a  cup 
of  boiling  water  and  stir  over  the  fire 
until  boiling,  then  let  cook  over  boiling 
water  (double  boiler)  until  thick.  vServe 
with  milk  as  a  breakfast  dish  or  at 
luncheon  or  dinner  as  a  dessert  dish. 

Brioche 

Soften  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast 
in  one-fourth  a  cup  of  lukewarm  water. 
Weigh  out  a  pound  of  flour  (four  cups) 
and  ten  ounces  (one  cup  and  a  fourth) 
of  butter.  Stir  into  the  yeast  and 
water  enough  of  the  flour  to  make  a 
stiff  dough;  knead  thoroughly,  then 
cut  two  gashes  across  the  dough  at 
right  angles  to  each  other  and  half 
through  the  dough,  and  drop  into  a 
small  saucepan  of  lukewarm  water  and 
let  stand  until  the  ball  floats  on  the 
water  a  light  spongy  mass.  Put  the 
rest  of  the  flour,  the  butter  softened 
but  not  melted,  one-fourth  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of   salt,    a   level   tablespoonful    of 


Coupes  Venus 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


289 


sugar  and  four  eggs  into  a  mixing  bowl. 
Mix  to  a  paste  with  the  hand,  then 
continue  beating  while  three  more  eggs 
are  added,  one  at  a  time.     Beat  the 
mixture  smooth  between  the  addition 
of  each  egg.    When  the  ball  of  sponge 
is  light,   remove  with   a   skimmer   (to 
take  no  water)  to  the  egg  mixture  and 
beat  until  the  whole  is  a  smooth  mass. 
Set  aside,  covered,  in  a  temperature  of 
about  70°  Fahr.  until  doubled  in  bulk. 
It  will  take  about  four  hours.     Then 
set  into  the  coolest  part  of  the  refrigera- 
tor   to    remain    over    night.      In    the 
morning  turn   upon   a   floured   board, 
pat  and  roll  into   a  thin  sheet    (one- 
d  of  an  inch  or  less),  spread  very 
tly  with  butter,  then  fold  from  the 
iS  toward  the  center  to  make  three 
ers;  turn  as  in  puff  paste  and  roll 
paste  in  the  opposite  direction  into 
hin  sheet;  brush  over  with  butter 
i  fold  again  in  three  layers.     The 
ite  may  be  rolled  and  folded  again  or 
;d  as  it  is.    For  timbales  it  should  be 
t  of  a  thickness  to  half  fill  the  molds. 
it  whatever  the  form  it  is  to  take, 
len  rolled  and  folded  the  last  time  it 
ould   be   a   little  more  than  half  the 
ickness  desired  in  the  finished  product. 

Coffee  Rolls  from  Brioche 

When   rolled   and   folded   the   paste 

lould  be  nearly  three-fourths  an  inch ; 

it  into   strips  three-fourths   an   inch 

ide  and  let  stand  to  become  light; 

ike  each  separately,  and  twist  from 

le   ends   in   opposite   directions,    and 

len  start  to  form  a  circle  of  the  dough, 

ut  end  by  bringing  the  two  ends  of 

he    dough    side    by    side    up    to    the 

enter  of  the  curve,  or  they  may  be 

haped  like  the  figure  8.     Dispose  the 

oils  close  together  in  the  baking  pan. 

-.et  rise  a  little  and  bake  about  twenty- 

ive  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.     Boil 

Dne  cup  of  sugar  and  one-third  a  cup 

3f    water    five    minutes    after    boiling 

Degins;    beat    until    slightly    creamy, 

then    spread    over   the    rolls.      If   the 

syrup   becomes   too    thick   to    spread. 


add  a  little  boiling  water  and  mix 
thoroughly;  let  boil  a  minute  or  two, 
then  beat  until  creamy  and  use. 

Clam  Broth,  for  Invalids 

If  fresh  clams  are  used,  prepare 
twelve  hard- shelled  clams  at  one  time. 
Clam  juice  may  be  purchased  in  bottles, 
in  which  case  dilute  until  of  desired 
strength,  using  water  or  water  and  milk 
for  the  purpose. 

Method:  Scrub  the  shells  and  place 
in  a  hot  spider  on  a  warm  but  not  hot 
part  of  the  stove.  When  shells  open 
remove  clams,  chop  fine  and  return  to 
the  liquid  in  the  spider  with  one  cup 
of  boiling  water;  allow  the  broth  to 
boil  up;  pour  into  cloth  and  squeeze 
out  all  the  liquid  possible,  season  it 
and  place  on  ice.  When  ready  to  use, 
reheat,  adding  sufficient  water  or  milk 
to  render  the  desired  strength. 

This  broth  may  be  peptonized  by  add- 
ing one-half  tube  of  peptonizing  powder 
dissolved  in  one  tablespoonful  of  cold 
water.  Add  this  to  the  broth  when  it 
is  just  warm  (115°  Fahr.),  stand  twenty 
minutes,  boil  up  quickly  and  remove 
from  fire.  Use  the  amount  needed 
and  place  the  rest  in  a  cold  place. 

Blushing  Apples  with  Orange  Sauce 

Select  eight  bright  red  apples.  Wipe 
the  apples  carefully  and  remove  the 
cores.  Set  to  cook  in  boiling  water, 
turning  as  needed,  to  cook  the  apples 
uniformly  on  all  sides.  When  done 
remove  to  a  plate  and  with  sharp 
knife  cut  through  the  skin  on  two  sides 
of  the  apples,  remove  the  skin  and  with 
a  teaspoon  scrape  the  inner  side  of  the 
skin  to  remove  from  it  all  red  pulp. 
Return  this  red  pulp  to  two  sides  of 
the  apples,  thus  causing  them  to  have 
the  appearance  of  blushing.  In  the 
mean  time  cook  the  grated  rind  and 
juice  of  two  oranges,  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon  and  one  cup  of  sugar  to  a 
syrup.  Pour  the  syrup  over  the  apples 
and  serve  at  once.  The  apples  and 
syrup  may  also  be  reheated  for  serving. 


Menus  for  Week  in  January 

(Family  of  Three  Adults) 

"  In  the  matter  of  provisions,  as  in  all  commercial  matters,  the  cheapest  is  the  dearest  in 
the  end." — A.  Hscoffier. 


Breakfast 

Puffed  Rice.  Thin  Cream  (2) 
Half  of  Grape-fruit  (1) 

Bacon  (3) 
Egg  Cooked  in  Shell  (1) 

Graham  Muffins 
Coffee  (2).     Cocoa  (1) 
Dinner 
Swiss  Steak,  Onions 
Baked  Sweet  Potatoes.     Celery- 
Blushing  Apples,  Orange  Sauce 
Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Stewed  Tomatoes 

Buttered  Toast.     Cottage  Cheese 

Marmalade 

Oat  Flake  Wafers.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Gluten  Grits,  Thin  Cream 

Broiled  Bacon 

Kornlet  Griddle  Cakes 

Dinner 

Pork  Chops 

Mashed  Potatoes 

Turnips 

Tapioca  Custard  Pudding, 

Vanilla  Sauce 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Stewed  Lima  Beans 

Baking  Powder  Biscuit 

Dried  Peaches,  Stewed,  Thin  Cream 

Tea 


Breakfast 

Boston  Brown  Bread 

(sliced,  covered,  heated  in  oven) 

Sausage.     Broiled  Sweet  Potatoes 

Hot  Apples  (left  over) 

Doughnuts.     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Oyster  Stew  (1  pint) 

Cole  Slaw 

Apple  Dumplings,  Hard  Sauce 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Baked  Potatoes  (door  of  furnace  or  back 

of  firebox,  coal  stove) 

Smoked  Beef.     Bread  and  Butter 

Brownies.     Stewed  Prunes.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Oranges.     Eggs  (2) 

Cold  Pork  Chop  (1).  Baked  Potato  Cakes 

Baking  Powder  Biscuit,  Toasted 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Fowl,  Stewed 

(half,  served  on  bread,  chicken  gravy) 

Boiled  Onions.  Celery.   Cranberry  Sauce 

Prune-and-Xut  Mold,  Cream 

(gelatine,  prunes,  lemon  juice,  nuts,  etc.) 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Potato-and-Sardine  Salad 

Com  Meal  Muffins 

Canned  Fruit.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Breakfast 

E-C  Corn  Flakes,  Thin  Cream  (2) 

Puffed  Wheat,  Thin  Cream 

Orange  (1) 

Sausage 

Sardines  on  Toast,  Brown  Sauce 

Hot  Apple  Sauce 

Doughnuts.     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Buckwheat  Cakes 

Dinner 

Coffee.      Cocoa 

Meat  Pie,  Biscuit  Crust 

Dinner 

(Swiss  steak  left  over) 

Fresh  Fish  Chowder,  Crackers 

Boiled  Squash 

Pickles 

> 

Salpicon  of  Fruit 

Apple  Pie,  Cheese 

(1  orange,  1  dozen  dates,  1  banana) 

Coffee 

Cheese.     Crackers.     Half  Cups  of  Coft'ee 

Supper 

Supper 

Fried  Oysters  (>^  pint) 

Creamed  Celery  on  Toast 

OHves 

Smoked  Beef 

Buttered  Toast 

Brownies.     Cocoa 

Canned  Fruit 

Breakfast 

Grape-fruit  (2) 

Puffed  Rice  (1) 

Waffles 

Coffee 

Cocoa 


Dinner 

Half  of  Stewed  Chicken, 

Fried 

Mashed  Potatoes 

Cranberry  Sauce  (left  over) 

Prune-and-Xut  Salad, 

Cream  Dressing 

Salted  Crackers 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

290 


Supper 

Hot  Chicken  Sandwiches, 

Indienne 

Baked  Apples 

Little  Cakes 

Tea 


Menus  for  Week  in  January 

(Family  of  Six) 

more  experience  is  desirable  than  it  is  now 


''In  the  practical  work  of  food  preparation 
customary  to  give.  —  Florence  R.  Corbett. 


Breakfast 

Wheat  Cereal  Cooked  with  Raisins, 

Thin  Cream 

Salt  Codfish  Cakes,  Bacon 

Zwieback.     Doughnuts.     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Leg  of  Lamb,  Roasted,  Mint  Jelly  (extract) 

Franconia  Potatoes.     Canned  Peas 

Banana  Fritters 

Squash  Pie.  Cottage  Cheese 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Fine  Macedoine  of  Vegetables  in 

Tomato  Jelly,  Mayonnaise  Dressing 

Salad  Rolls  (reheated) 

Chocolate  Nut  Cake.     Tea 


Sreakf  ast 

E-C  Corn  Flakes,  Thin  Cream 

Creamed  Smoked  Beef 

Baked  Potatoes 

Cranberry  Rolls.     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Welsh  Rabbit 

Apple-and-Date  Salad,  French  Dressing 

Aviation  Bread  and  Butter 

Pineapple  Juice 

Dinner 

Cream  of  Carrot  Soup  (evaporated  milk) 

Fresh  Fish,  Baked 

Mashed  Potatoes 

Lettuce,  French  Dressing 

Mince  Pie.     Grape  Juice 


Breakfast 

Boiled  Rice,  Sliced  Bananas 

Corned  Beef-and-Potato  Hash 

(left  from  Saturday) 

Eggs  Cooked  in  Shell  (3) 

Salad  Rolls  (reheated).     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Luncheon    (Three  Persons) 

Hot  Cheese  Sandwiches 

Hot  Apple  Sauce.     Chocolate  Nut  Cake 

Caramel  Junket.    Hot  Pineapple  Juice 

Dinner 

Leg  of  Lamb  Rechaufee 

(Macaroni,  Tomato  Sauce,  buttered 

crumbs.)    Candied  Sweet  Potatoes 

.Creamy  Rice  Pudding  with  Meringue 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 


Breakfast 

Grape-fruit 

Arlington  Bacon,  Fried  Eggs 

Fried  Corn-Meal  Mush 

Yeast  Rolls  (reheated).     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Komlet  Custard.     Corn-Meal  Mufffns 

Apple  Pie.     Cottage  Cheese 

Pineapple  Juice 

Dinner 

Tomato   Soup    (remnants  of  lamb   and 

steak  with  beef  extract) 

Roast  Shoulder  of  Pork,  Apple  Sauce 

Squash.     Mashed  Potatoes 

Cornstarch  Blancmange  with  Jelly 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 


Breakfast 

Oranges 

Sausage  Cakes 

Buckwheat  Griddle  Cakes 

Dry  Toast.     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Luncheon  (Three  Persons) 

Scalloped  Oysters  (one  pint) 

Pickles 

Gluten  Biscuit  Crisps 

Blushing  Apples  with  Orange  Sauce 

Dinner 

Swiss  Steak  with  Onions 

Canned  String  Beans 

Aviation  Bread 

Stewed  Figs,  Custard  Sauce 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 


Breakfast 

Grape-fruit 

Fried  Oysters.     Pickled  Beets 

Buttered  Toast 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Cold  Roast  Pork 

Potato  Salad 

Poor  Man's  Rice  Pudding 

Peanut  Brittle.     Tea 

Dinner 

Boiled  Fresh  Fish,  Caper  Sauce 

Boiled  Potatoes 

Scalloped  Tomatoes 

Bread  Pudding  with  Jelly  and  Meringue 

Hot  Pineapple  Juice 


Breakfast 

Barley  Cr^-stals, 

Hot  Dates,  Thin  Cream 

Arlington  Bacon 


Waffles. 


Toast 
Coffee. 


Cocoa 


Luncheon 

Creamed  Fish  au  gratin 

Scalloped  Potatoes 

Pickles 

]\Iince  Pie 

Pineapple  Juice 

291 


Dinner 

Potato  Soup 

Broiled  Lamb  Chops 

Sweet  Potatoes,  Baked 

Tomato  Jelh^  Salad 

Cream  Pie 
Half  Cups  of  Coffee 


Menus  for  Special  Occasions  in  January 


Club  Teas 


I. 


Cream  Cheese-and-Pimento  Sandwiches 

Bread-and-Butter  Sandwiches 

Oatflake  Wafers 

Mushroom  Meringues 

Layer  Cake  cut  in  tiny  squares 

Russian  Tea  with  Pineapple  Juice 

II. 

Tiny  Baking  Powder  Biscuit-and-Butter 

Sandwiches 

Mayonnaise  of  Chicken-and-Ham  Sandwiches 

Aviation  Bread-and-Butter  Sandwiches 

Peanut  Cookies 

Marguerites  (made  with  one  cup  cocoanut) 

Grapejuice  Punch 


III 


Cream   Cheese-and-Preserved    Ginger 

Sandwiches 

Bread-and-Butter  Sandwiches 

Nut  Meringues 

Sponge  Drops 

Pineappleade 


IV 

Rolled  Bread-and-Butter  Sandwiches 

Cream  Cheese-and-Grape-fruit  Marmalade 

Sandwiches 

Cream  Cheese-and-Honey  Sandwiches 

Russian  Tea  with  Pineapple  Juice 


Buffet  Luncheon  or  Supper 

(For  Card  Parties,  etc.,  etc.) 


IV 


Cleared  Chicken-and-Tomato  Bouillon 

Oyster  Patties  (or  Swedish  Timbale  Cases) 

Mayonnaise  of  Celery  and  Apple 

Buttered  Rolls 

Coffee 

Little  Cakes  or  small  Cubes  of  Cake 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream  with  Strawberry  Preserves 

II 

Grape-fruit  Cocktail 

Creamed  Crabflakes  in  Potato  Cassolettes 

Chicken  Salad 

Bread-and-Butter  Sandwiches 

Coffee 

Coupes  Venus 

III 

Tiny  Sardine  Eclairs 

Cream-of-Spinach  Soup 

Terrine  of  Chicken,  Sliced 

Celery-and-Green  Pepper  Salad 

Yeast  Rolls,  Buttered 

Coffee 

Ginger  Ice  Cream 

Lady  Fingers.     Macaroons 


Caviare  Medallions 

Chicken-and-Tomato  Bouillon  (in  cups) 

Olives.     Salted  Nuts 

Oyster  Patties  (Brown  Sauce) 

Cold  Terrine  of  Chicken,  Sliced  Thin 

Celery-and-Green  Pepper  (or  Pimento)  Salad 

Parker  House  Rolls  Buttered 

Aviation  Bread-and-Butter  Sandwiches 

Coffee 

Tiny  Squares  of  Fruit  Cake 

Sponge  Drops  Coupes  Venus 

Marrons  Glac6 

V 

Oyster  Soup 

Olives.     Gherkins 

Chicken  Salad  Sandwiches 

Coffee 

Fig  or  Ginger  Ice  Cream 

Cake  Bonbons 


VI 

(For  Church  Society,  Large  Club,  etc.) 

Creamed  Corned  Beef  au  Gratin 

Mashed  Potatoes.    Green  Peas  (canned) 

Philadelphia  Relish 

Bread-and-Butter  Sandwiches 

Coffee 

Frozen  Apricots 

Cake 


292 


Lessons  in  Elementary  Cooking 

By  Mary  Chandler  Jones 

Teacher  of  Cookery  in  the  Public  schools  of  Brookline,  Mass. 

LESSON  VI 
Cereals 


BY  cereals  we  mean  grains,  the  food 
plants  which  resemble  grasses 
in  their  way  of  growing.  Make 
a  Hst  of  all  the  kinds  of  grain 
you  know.  Where  is  each  grown? 
Compare  the  structure  and  general 
appearance  of  grain  with  those  of 
grass  and  see  the  strong  likeness  in  the 
slender  stems,  long,  narrow  leaves  and 
relatively  large  seeds.  In  our  lesson 
on  vegetables  we  saw  that  many  differ- 
ent parts  of  plants  are  used  for  food, 
and  now  we  find  that  in  cereals  the 
seed  is  the  edible  portion. 

Examine  the  seeds  of  different  grains 
and  notice  the  delicate  coatings  which 
protect  the  young  plant  within.  Ob- 
serve the  parts  of  the  seed  and  the  way 
in  which  nourishment,  for  the  future 
growth  of  the  plantlet,  is  stored  in  the 
cotyledons  (or  seed-leaves).  Test  the 
seeds  with  a  drop  of  dilute  tincture  of 
iodine  and  observe  the  same  purple 
color  that  appeared  in  the  test  for 
starch.  In  which  portion  of  the  seed 
is  this  test  strongest?  Since  the  seed 
contains  starch,  at  what  temperature 
must  cereal  be  cooked?     Why? 

Cereals  require  the  addition  of  salt 
and  water,  in  the  process  of  cooking. 
Salt  must  be  added  for  seasoning  and 
water  to  supply  the  necessary  moisture 
for  swelling  and  bursting  the  starch 
grains.  The  popping  of  com  is  an  in- 
stance of  cereal  starch  being  cooked  in 
moisture  contained  by  the  grain  itself, 
as  a  potato  is  cooked  in  its  own  juices. 
Cereals  may  be  cooked  over  direct 
heat,  in  an  ordinary  kettle,  or  over  hot 


water,  in  the  double  boiler.  What  is 
the  danger  in  each  process?  What  is 
the  advantage  in  boiling  the  cereal 
for  five  minutes  and  then  cooking  it, 
for  the  remaining  time,  in  a  double 
boiler? 

Often  fruit  served  with  cereals  makes 
them  more  palatable  and  attractive, 
and  so  adds  to  the  nutritive  value  of  the 
dish.  Such  fruit  may  be  cooked,  as 
in  the  case  of  apples;  or  uncooked,  as 
in  bananas.  Too  much  sugar  should 
not  be  eaten  with  cereal,  as  it  disguises 
the  natural  sweetness  of  the  grain,  and 
is  not  needed  with  so  starchy  a  food. 
Much  sugar,  taken  with  other  food,  is 
likely  to  cause  indigestion.  In  Eng- 
land a  form  of  "fruit  sugar"  is  some- 
times served  with  cereal  and  is  liked 
better  than  cane  sugar.  It  is  a  good 
thing  to  learn  to  enjoy  unsweetened 
cereal ;  but  if  the  process  of  learning  be 
difficult,  the  sweetness  and  flavor  of 
fruit  may  be  added  to  the  unsweetened 
cereal. 

Oatmeal  has  been  called  "the  grain 
of  hardihood."  It  is  not  one  of  the 
most  digestible,  cereals,  but  when  it  is 
thoroughly  cooked  there  is  none  more 
delicious.  The  old-fashioned  Scotch 
oatmeal,  steamed  for  a  long  time,  is 
cheapest  (unless  a  special  fire  must  be 
kept  for  cooking  it)  and  most  appe- 
tizing. Where  quick  cooking  is  an 
object,  some  form  of  rolled,  steam- 
cooked  oats  may  be  substituted  for 
the  hard  oatmeal.  (In  cooking  cereals 
it  is  always  best  to  cook  them  much 
longer  than  the  direction  calls  for.) 


293 


294 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


Oatmeal  with  Apples 

For  a  school-lesson  use  some  form  of 
steam-cooked  oats. 

f  a  cup  of  oatmeal       I  2h     cups    of    boiling 
1  teaspoonful  oi  salt  water 

Add  the  salt  to  the  boiling  water 
and  sprinkle  in  the  oats  slowly,  to 
prevent  stopping  the  boiling.  Boil 
five  minutes,  then  put  into  a  double 
boiler  and  cook  at  least  thirty  minutes 
over  boiling  water.  Serve  with  milk 
and  sugar  or  with 


Cooked  in  Water 

H  cups  of  water 


.  Apples 

6  apples 

1  cup  of  sugar 

Wash  the  apples  and  core  them  care- 
fully. Pare  them  if  preferred.  If  the 
skins  are  a  pretty  red,  it  is  as  well  not 
to  remove  them.  Boil  the  sugar  and 
water  together  for  about  five  minutes. 
Put  the  apples  into  the  syrup  and  cook 
gently  until  they  are  tender  but  not 
broken.  Serve  with  the  oatmeal  in 
and  around  them. 

Wheat  is  sometimes  known  as  the 
"king  of  cereals,"  and  it  is,  perhaps, 
the  grain  most  widely  used  in  civilized 
lands  and  the  most  valuable.  Let  the 
pupils  name  the  products  derived  from 
wheat  and  name  the  countries  where  it 
is  grown  extensively.  Compare  wheat- 
raising,  w^heat-eating  countries  in  their 
civilization  with  countries  where  other 
grains  are  used  instead.  The  prepared 
cereals,  made  from  the  wheat  grain  are 
more  fine-ground  than  those  prepared 
from  oats. 


Wh  eaten  a  with 


f  cup  of  wheatena 
1  teaspoonful  of  salt 
f  a  cup  of  cold  water 


Dates 

of    boiling 


21    cups 

water 
^  a  pound  of  prepared 

dates  (or  1  cup) 


Mix  the  wheatena,  salt  and  cold 
water.  Add  to  this  a  little  of  the  boil- 
ing water,  then  pour  the  paste  into  the 
remainder  of  the  boihng  water  and  let 
it  boil  five  minutes.  Put  it  into  a 
double  boiler  and  cook  for  thirty 
minutes.     Add     the     dates      (stoned, 


washed  very  thoroughly  and  cut  into 
pieces)  when  the  wheatena  is  put  into 
the  double  boiler.  Serve  either  hot  or 
cold,  w^ith  milk  or  cream  and  sugar. 
It  may  be  molded  in  cups  and  chilled 
before  serving. 

Why  is  it  necessary  to  mix  the 
wheatena  with  cold  water  before  put- 
ting it  into  the  boiling  water?  What 
other  fruits  might  be  used  in  place  of 
dates  in  this  recipe? 

Where  is  rice  grown?  Rice  may  be 
planted  in  a  broad  earthen  pan  and 
grown  under  water,  to  show  the  way 
of  cultivation.  Test  the  rice  with 
tincture  of  iodine. 

Boiled   Rice 


3    quarts    of    boiling 
water 


1  cup  of  rice 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt 

Pick  over  the  rice  and  wash  it  under 
cold  water  until  there  is  no  starchy 
whiteness  in  the  water.  (This  may  be 
well  done  by  holding  the  rice  in  a 
strainer  under  the  cold  water-faucet.) 
Sprinkle  the  rice  gradually  into  the 
boiling,  salted  water.  (Why?)  Let  it 
boil  until  tender.  (The  best  test  for 
rice  is  to  taste  a  kernel  and  see  whether 
it  is  hard  in  the  center.)  When  it  is 
cooked,  drain  it  through  a  strainer  and 
pour  boiling  water  through  it. 


Steamed  Rice 


of      boiling 


1  cup  of  rice  I  2     cups 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt  water 

Pick  over  and  wash  the  rice,  then 
put  it  with  the  salt  and  boiling  water 
into  the  upper  part  of  the  double  boiler. 
Cover  it  and  let  it  cook  over  boiling 
water  until  the  rice  is  tender.  All  the 
water  should  be  absorbed,  when  the 
rice  is  cooked. 

Notice  the  difference  in  appearance 
between  the  cooked  and  the  uncooked 
rice.  Which  is  the  better  method,  of 
these  two,  for  economy?  For  time? 
AVhat  may  be  done,  in  the  former  re- 
cipe, with  the  water  in  which  the  rice 
was  cooked?  Ideal  rice  should  be 
white,  firm  and  tender.     Rice  may  be 


PRACTICAL  HOME  DIETETICS 


295 


served  as  a  vegetable  or  as  a  dessert. 
Why  would  you  not  serve  rice  with 
potatoes?  Rice  may  be  combined  with 
various  fruits  and  vegetables.  Dried 
apricots,  soaked  and  cooked  until  ten- 
der, may  be  hidden  in  molds  of  rice 
and  served  either  hot  or  cold,  with 
apricot  juice  for  a  sauce. 

In  preparing  cereals,  we  must  es- 
pecially remember  that  we  are  working 
with  a  starchy  food  which  is  both  un- 
palatable and  indigestible,  if  it  is  in- 
sufficiently cooked.  Long,  slow  cook- 
ing is,  perhaps,  best,  though  it  is  well 


to  precede  this  by  a  little  actual  boiling. 
The  cereal  should  usually  absorb  the 
water  in  which  it  is  cooked.  If  it  has 
not  done  so,  the  cover  may  be  removed 
during  the  latter  part  of  the  cooking. 

Let  the  pupils  compare  the  relative 
cost  of  the  package  cereals  and  those 
bought  in  bulk.  Let  them  see  that 
the  convenience,  cleanness  and  variety 
of  the  package  cereals  are  what  cause 
the  added  cost,  and  not  greater  nu- 
tritive value.  These  are  often  well 
worth  paying  for,  but  they  are  luxuries 
and  not  necessities. 


Practical  Home  Dietetics 

By  Minnie  Genevieve  Morse 

III.    The  Elderly  Person's  Diet. 


IN  the  story  of  human  life  there  is  no 
more  inspiring  picture  than  that  of 
a  hale  and  beautiful  and  useful  old 
age.  The  latter  part  of  man's  life  was 
not  intended  by  nature  to  be  a  period 
of  helplessness  and  wretchedness,  but 
to  be  the  crown  of  all  the  preceding 
years,  the  season  of  greatest  fruitful- 
ness  and  service  to  humanity.  The 
ideal  old  age  is  one  in  which,  with  brain 
still  alert  and  heart  still  warm,  the 
good  soldier,  who  has  spent  his  life  in 
fighting  for  progress  and  human  wel- 
fare, receives  the  honor  and  deference 
which  are  his  due,  and,  by  virtue  of  his 
wisdom  and  experience,  becomes  the 
revered  adviser  and  leader  of  his 
fellows.  The  annals  of  statecraft,  of 
literature,  of  the  arts  and  sciences,  are 
full  of  the  names  of  men  and  women 
who  have  done  ther  best  work  after 
passing  the  half-century  mark;  and 
every  civilized  country  can  point  with 
pride  to  some  who,  when  much  further 
along  in  years,  have  given  the  world  a 
great  discovery,  produced  a  master- 
piece that  shall  keep  a  name  alive  for 
many  generations,  or  steered  the  ship 


of  state  safely  through  some  great 
crisis. 

As  time  goes  on,  a,nd  the  diseases 
that  have  scourged  the  human  race  for 
centuries  are  brought  under  control, 
and  the  conditions  that  make  for  health 
and  happiness  are  better  understood,  a 
larger  proportion  of  mankind  should  be 
able  to  look  forward  to  such  an  enviable 
evening  of  life.  A  painfully  large 
number,  however,  caught  in  the  grip 
of  the  modern  spirit  of  haste  and  com- 
petition, wear  out  before  their  time, 
while  others  defeat  nature's  purpose  by 
the  exercise  of  unbridled  passions  or  by 
some  form  of  self-indulgence. 

Among  the  avoidable  causes  of  the 
ailments  and  discomforts  that  embitter 
middle  and  later  life,  dietetic  errors,  of 
one  sort  or  another,  hold  a  leading 
place.  Many  factors  combine  in  mak- 
ing this  the  case.  A  decrease  in  all 
forms  of  activity  comes  with  advancing 
years,  so  that  less  fuel  is  needed  by  the 
body  for  its  output  of  energy  and  for 
the  repair  of  tissue  waste  due  to  exercise. 
On  the  other  hand,  age  brings  with  it 
inevitable  changes  in  the  various  or- 


296 


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gans  of  the  body,  resulting  in  the  slower 
and  less  perfect  performance  of  the 
vital  functions.  Although,  under  favor- 
able circumstances,  the  elderly  person 
may  enjoy  good  physical  and  mental 
health,  he  cannot  escape  a  certain  loss 
of  vigor  in  the  circulatory  machine,  a 
weakening  of  the  powers  of  digestion, 
absorption  and  assimilation,  and  a  loss 
of  muscular  tone  in  the  intestines, 
tending  to  prevent  a  proper  elimination 
of  waste  products  from  the  body.  Now, 
it  is  plain  that  with  a  decreased  output 
of  energy,  lessened  expenditure  of  fuel 
for  tissue  repair,  and  lowered  powers  of 
digestion  and  assimilation,  there  should 
be  a  decreased  intake  of  food,  and  that 
the  food  supplied  should  be  of  a  sort  to 
put  the  least  possible  strain  upon  the 
organs  involved.  Many  persons,  how- 
ever, having  come  to  the  afternoon  of 
life,  take  increased  pleasure  in  lux- 
urious living,  since  they  have  more 
leisure  in  which  to  enjoy  it,  and  greater 
means  to  enable  them  to  gratify  their 
inclinations. 

Furthermore,  there  is  a  very  common 
notion  on  the  part  of  those  who  have 
the  care  of  elderly  persons  that  their 
failing  strength  and  weakened  powers 
must  be  supported  by  an  especially 
generous  and  nourishing  diet.  This  is, 
however,  a  false  kindness.  There  is 
much  greater  danger  that  elderly  per- 
sons in  comfortable  circumstances  will 
overeat  than  that  they  will  be  underfed. 
Sir  Henry  Thompson,  the  author  of 
"  Diet  in  Relation  to  Age  and  Activity," 
says  that  if  a  man  past  the  half-century 
mark  "continues  to  consume  the  same 
abundant  breakfasts,  substantial 
lunches,  and  heavy  dinners,  which  at 
the  summit  of  his  power  he  could  dis- 
pose of  almost  with  impunity,  he  will 
in  time  certainly  either  accumulate  fat 
or  become  acquainted  with  gout  or 
rheumatism,  or  show  signs  of  unhealthy 
deposit  of  some  kind  in  some  part  of  the 
body,  —  processes  which  must  inevit- 
ably empoison,  undermine  or  shorten 
his  remaining  term  of  life.  .  .  .     The 


typical  man  of  eighty  or  ninety  years  is 
lean  and  spare,  and  lives  on  slender 
rations." 

All  who  have  studied  the  conditions 
under  which  centenarians  and  other 
very  old  persons  have  lived  are  agreed 
that  longevity  and  a  spare  figure  go 
together.  As  one  medical  authority 
puts  it,  "A  man  will  only  roll  faster 
down  the  hill  of  life  if  his  figure  be 
rotund."  Obesity  is  a  handicap  to 
those  who  would  attain  to  long  life, 
not  only  because  it  makes  activity  more 
difficult,  but  because  the  vital  organs 
can  act  less  freely,  and  are  themselves 
liable  to  a  deposition  of  fat.  Those 
who  have  a  tendency  to  overweight 
should,  therefore,  be  especially  careful, 
as  they  approach  later  life,  to  avoid 
too  luxurious  living. 

Old  age  is  a  relative  rather  than  an 
exact  term,  since  some  persons  appear 
older  at  fifty  than  others  with  ten  or 
fifteen  years  more  to  their  credit.  In- 
herited constitution,  the  degree  of 
wear  and  tear  undergone,  the  effects 
of  disease,  and  many  other  factors  are 
concerned  in  making  this  true.  It  is 
not  possible,  therefore,  to  lay  down  any 
hard  and  fast  rules  regarding  the  re- 
quirements, dietetic  or  otherwise,  of 
one  who  has  reached  a  certain  time  of 
life.  Certain  statements,  however,  are 
of  pretty  general  application.  The  total 
quantity  of  food  taken  in  later  life 
should  be  considerably  less  than  is 
needed  during  the  more  active  years. 
There  should  be  no  large  and  heavy 
meals,  putting  an  especial  tax  upon  the 
digestive  organs.  The  diet  should  con- 
sist of  easily  digested  food,  the  pro- 
portion of  proteids  or  nitrogenous  foods 
being  smaller  than  when  physical  ac- 
tivity and  the  resulting  tissue  waste 
were  greater.  Among  the  articles  of 
food  that  may  be  recommended  are 
chicken  and  other  especially  tender 
meats,  in  small  quantities,  bacon,  white- 
fleshed  fish,  eggs  lightly  cooked,  milk 
and  buttermilk,  nourishing  soups, 
cereals,  fresh  and  cooked  green  vege- 


PRACTICAL  HOME  DIETETICS 


297 


tables,  fruit  stewed  or  baked,  and  per- 
fectly ripe  fresh  fruit  in  moderation. 
Some  stewed  fruits  need  so  much  sugar 
to  make  them  agreeable  that  persons 
who  are  subject  to  flatulent  indigestion 
may  not  be  able  to  eat  them  without 
suffering  for  it.  In  such  cases  the 
acidity  ma}^  be  neutralized  by  adding 
a  little  bicarbonate  of  soda;  or  the 
sweetening  may  be  done  by  means  of 
saccharine  instead  of  sugar. 

Most  persons  who  have  attained  to  a 
great  age  have  eaten  very  little  meat; 
and  it  is  much  better  for  one  who  is 
getting  on  in  years  to  take  meat  only 
once  a  day,  rather  than  twice  or  three 
times.  The  menu  should,  however,  be 
an  agreeably  varied  one,  and  every- 
thing should  be  well  cooked  and  attrac- 
tively served.  Fried  foods,  rich  articles 
of  diet,  and  elaborately  made  dishes  and 
desserts  should  find  no  place  on  the 
elderly  person's  menu. 

Constipation,  while  common  enough 
at  all  stages  of  life,  is  an  especial  bug- 
bear to  the  aged,  who  take  little  ex- 
ercise, and  who  usually  suffer  more  or 
less  from  deterioration  of  the  muscular 
tone  of  the  intestines.  Even  under 
these  conditions,  however,  a  careful 
attention  to  the  diet,  combined  with 
regular  habits,  can  do  a  great  deal  to 
promote  free  evacuations.  There  are 
many  articles  of  food  that  have  a  dis- 
tinctly laxative  effect,  and  fortunately 
very  few  of  them  are  among  those 
which  elderly  persons  should  in  general 
avoid.  Fresh  vegetables,  especially 
spinach,  lettuce,  celery,  and  boiled 
Spanish  onions,  are  among  the  most 
valuable  articles  of  diet,  which  also 
include  orange  and  grape-fruit  juices, 
baked  or  stew^ed  apples,  stewed  prunes 
and  figs  and  stewed  berries.  One  of 
the  laxative  fruits,  prepared  in  one  form 
or  another,  should  be  a  regular  part  of 
either  the  morning  or  the  evening  meal. 
Fruit  taken  on  an  empty  stomach  has 
a  more  laxative  effect  than  under  other 
conditions.  The  breakfast  cereals, 
notably    oatmeal,    are    also    useful    in 


combating  constipation.  Bread  made 
from  whole  wheat  or  Graham  flour, 
Boston  brown  bread  and  com  bread 
are  all  more  laxative  than  bread  made 
of  fine-ground  white  flour.  Ginger- 
bread and  old-fashioned  molasses 
cookies,  likewise,  have  a  mild  action  in 
the  desired  direction.  Plenty  of  water 
should  be  drunk  during  the  day,  unless 
there  is  some  special  counter-indica- 
tion, especially  when  rising  and  when 
retiring;  a  considerable  quantity  of 
fluid  in  the  alimentary  canal  prevents 
the  food  from  becoming  too  dry  to  be 
easily  propelled  through  the  intestine. 

Many  elderly  persons,  especially  those 
who  take  practically  no  exercise,  are 
troubled  with  insomnia.  Some  are 
unable  to  fall  asleep  on  first  retiring; 
others  waken  in  the  early  morning 
hours  and  are  unable  to  get  any  further 
sleep.  For  those  who  experience  the 
former  difficulty,  a  glass  of  hot  milk, 
taken  just  before  retiring,  will  often 
cause  sleep  to  come  immediately;  and 
those  who  cannot  sleep  toward  morn- 
ing may  usually  be  relieved  by  having 
a  covered  dish  containing  a  light 
luncheon  within  easy  reach  at  the  bed- 
side. In  such  cases  the  mind  is  apt  to 
be  too  active,  and  by  calling  the  blood 
to  the  digestive  organs  it  is  drawn 
away  from  the  brain. 

Among  the  disorders  which  are 
most  common  in  advanced  life  are 
rheumatism,  gout,  heart  diseases,  and 
arteriosclerosis  —  the  hardening  of  the 
walls  of  the  blood  vessels.  Most  of 
these  are  more  or  less  influenced  by  the 
diet  in  which  the  patient  habitually  in- 
dulges, though  many  statements  made 
in  past  years  by  authorities  on  dietetics 
have  now  been  overthrown  by  new  dis- 
coveries concerning  these  diseases. 
This  latter  fact  is  especially  true  of 
acute  rheumatism,  which  was  formerly 
supposed  to  be  a  disorder  resulting 
largely  from  eating  certain  kinds  of 
food,  but  which  is  now  generally  held 
to  be  of  microbic  origin.  This  being 
the  fact,  it  cannot  be  expected  that  any 


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special  diet  will  prevent  its  occurrence, 
any  more  than  would  be  the  case  in 
other  infectious  diseases,  though  it  is, 
of  course,  true  that  indiscretions  in  diet, 
which  upset  digestion  and  thus  lower 
the  vital  force,  render  one  more  suscep- 
tible to  this  and  to  infections  of  all 
kinds.  Dr.  W.  Oilman  Thompson,  the 
well-known  writer  on  dietetics,  says  in 
reference  to  this  disease:  "I  am  often 
asked  for  preventive  diet  for  rheuma- 
tism, but  I  know  of  none  beyond  general 
directions  to  eat  simply  cooked,  plain 
food,  avoiding  excess  of  red  meat  and 
sweets,  and  taking  fresh  fruit  for  laxa- 
tive effect."  He  adds,  however,  that 
eating  meat  may  undoubtedly  cause  a 
relapse,  and  that  after  an  attack  it  is 
well  to  abstain  for  some  time  from 
meats  and  from  pastry  and  sweets. 

Gout  is  often  called  a  disease  of  high 
living;  and  it  is  true  that  the  majority 
of  gouty  persons  are  addicted  to  over- 
eating, and  especially  to  eating  too 
much  meat  and  indulging  too  freely  in 
alcoholic  beverages.  The  disease  is 
the  result  of  the  retention,  in  the  blood 
and  other  fluids  of  the  body,  of  waste 
substances  which  should  be  carried  off 
by  the  excreting  organs;  in  Dr.  Osier's 
striking  phrase,  "Gout  is  evidence  of  an 
overfed,  overworked  and  consequently 
clogged  machine."  This  being  the 
case,  it  can  readily  be  seen  that  diet 
holds  a  leading  place  among  the  meas- 
ures which  may  be  taken  to  prevent  the 
occurrence  of  the  disease  in  those  pre- 
disposed, and  to  ward  off  recurrent 
attacks. 

The  victim  of  gout  is  usually  under 
the  pretty  strict  surveillance  of  his  phy- 
sician while  an  attack  is  in  progress, 
but,  when  the  immediate  discomfort  is 
over,  it  is  very  easy  to  disregard  di- 
rections as  to  diet,  and  allow  oneself 
some  of  the  indulgences  which  are  apt 
to  be  especially  dear  to  those  who  are 
subject  to  this  condition.  Such  in- 
dulgences are  dearly  purchased,  how- 
ever, as  sometimes  a  single  indiscretion 
will  precipitate  an  attack.    While  differ- 


ent authorities  hold  somewhat  differing 
views  on  the  subject,  it  is  agreed  by 
almost  all  dietitians  that  very  little 
meat  should  be  eaten  by  those  who  are 
subject  to  gout,  very  little  fat,  and 
practically  no  sugar.  It  is  the  proteids 
—  derived  principally  from  meats  — 
which  in  this  condition  are  least  com- 
pletely burned  up  in  the  system,  while 
fats  and  sugars  help  to  retard  proper 
combustion 

Fatty  degeneration,  valvular  diseases 
and  other  forms  of  heart  trouble  are 
very  common  among  the  elderly,  and 
many  hearts  in  which  no  actual  disease 
can  be  discovered  work  more  feebly  in 
advancing  age,  as  a  result  of  the  de- 
generative changes  from  which  the 
whole  body  suffers  more  or  less  in  later 
life.  The  heart  muscle  becomes  less 
firm  and  strong  than  in  youth,  and  the 
arterial  walls  less  elastic.  The  stomach, 
too,  as  a  noted  medical  writer  has  said, 
is  not  only  a  near  neighbor  but  a  bad 
neighbor  to  the  heart;  branches  of  the 
same  great  nerve  supply  both,  so  that 
gastric  irritation  is  felt  reflexly  by  the 
heart,  while  the  two  organs  are  so 
close  together  that  increase  in  the  size 
of  the  stomach,  such  as  results  from 
its  dilatation  by  gases,  makes  pressure 
upon  the  heart  and  interferes  with  its 
contractions.  This  being  true,  persons 
with  diseased  or  weakened  hearts  find 
themselves  much  freer  from  discomfort, 
if  they  take  only  small  quantities  of 
either  soHds  or  liquids  into  their 
stomachs  at  one  time,  and  keep  the  di- 
gestive canal  clear  by  free  evacuations 
from  the  bowels.  Regular  hours  for 
meals,  avoidance  of  extra  meals  at 
odd  times  and  of  too  short  intervals 
between  meals,  and  the  practice  of 
taking  the  food  as  dry  as  is  compatible 
with  health  and  comfort,  are  helpful 
observances  in  these  circumstances. 

Where  there  is  arteriosclerosis,  or 
hardening  and  inelasticity  of  the  ar- 
teries, the  principal  indication  is  to 
keep  down  the  pressure  of  blood  in  the 
(Continued  on  page  xvi) 


HOME  IDEAS 

AND 

ECONOMIES 

Contributions  to  this  department  will  be  gladly  received.     Accepted  items  will  be 
paid  for  at  reasonable  rates. 


A  Winter  Living  Room,  for  Work 
and   Play 

Something  between  an  Enclosed  Porch,  a  Conservatory 
and  a  Smoking-Room.    Just  the  Place  for  Tea 

IN  a  well-planned  home,  on  a  city  lot 
that  allows  some  space  around  the 
house,  an  extension  has  been  built  that 
is  much  praised  by  guests  and  is  a  joy 
to  the  owners. 

From  the  drawing-room  and  library 
two  casement  doors  open  upon  a  room 
partly  enclosed  by  glass,  yet  roofed 
over.  The  floor  is  tiled,  and  plants  are 
placed  upon  shelves;  yet  in  no  sense  is 
it  the  usual  conservatory  of  the  green- 
house order,  with  a  semi-commercial 
aspect  of  crowded  shelves  over  steam 
pipes  and  a  narrow  walk.  It  is  like  a 
wide  veranda  with  chairs  and  tables. 
But  you  may  say,  having  read  thus  far, 
"What  is  there  new  about  this?" 

The  novelty  consists  in  the  treatment 
of  the  wall  between  the  two  doors.  Here 
a  fine  mantel  has  been  built  of  brick 
adapted  to  the  purpose,  and  over  them 
EngHsh  ivy  is  climbing.  The  ivy  is 
grown  in  two  large  boxes  of  terra  cotta. 
These  stand  on  each  side  of  the  fire- 
place and  are  decorative.  The  warmth 
of  the  chimney  is  not  too  great  for  the 
ivy,  and,  of  course,  a  hose  can  be  used, 
when  there  is  no  fire,  to  wash  the  ivy 
and  give  it  a  good  house  cleaning  at  the 
right  seasons.  When  spring  comes 
much  of  the  sash  can  be  removed  and 
air  admitted,  yet  a  shelter  remains  for 
tender  plants  so  that  they  will  not  be 
ruined  by  heavy  storms;  also,  on  rainy 
days  and  evenings,  there  is  a  deep 
sheltered  porch  for  happy  family  groups. 


It  is  an  ideal  place  to  stroll  after  din- 
ner, or  for  the  host  to  take  his  friends 
to  smoke  and  lounge  with  newspapers. 
The  furniture  is  of  the  mission  or  den 
order,  and  yet  there  is  not  that  over- 
heavy  appearance  that  such  furniture 
has  in  the  ordinary  den.  Instead  of  a 
great  variety  of  small  plants,  potted 
shrubs  of  some  size  are  appropriate. 
It  is  a  good  place  in  which  to  winter 
bay  trees,  and  to  show  off  azaleas, 
cinerarias  and  the  like.  The  floor  can 
be  laid  in  brick  or  cement,  as  well  as 
tile;  and  by  tile  the  gay,  brilliantly 
colored,  glazed  tiles  are  not  meant,  but 
the  dark  red  ones,  now  so  much  used  in 
libraries,  churches  and  colleges. 

It  forms,  also,  a  safe  place  for  amateur 
cooking  classes  that  use  a  gas  stove, 
and  afternoon  teas,  served  from  the 
kitchen.  Again  it  is  a  boon  to  the 
artistic  maiden,  for  a  splash  of  paint  is 
not  wholly  irremedial.  j.  d.  c. 


An  Old  New  England  Indian 
Pudding 

THREE  quarts  and  one  pint  of  milk, 
seven  tablespoonfuls,  heaped,  of 
Indian  meal,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one 
cup  of  molasses,  half  a  cup  of  butter, 
one  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  nutmeg,  one  cup  of  raisins. 

Scald  one  quart  of  the  milk  and  add 
to  this  the  meal  stirred  smooth  with  cold 
milk;  remove  from  the  fire  and  add  the 
rest  of  the  ingredients  except  the  milk. 

Stir  well  and  pour  into  a  buttered 
baking  dish  of  large  size;  set  in  the 


299 


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oven  and,  when  baked  enough  to  form 
a  thin  skin,  pour  in  a  pint  of  the  cold 
milk  and  stir  thoroughly  from  the 
bottom  until  it  is  a  smooth  mass.  In 
half  an  hour  repeat  this  process,  and  so 
on  until  all  the  milk  is  used.  It  should 
be  in  a  moderate  oven  five  hours. 

This  is  an  old  recipe,  handed  down 
from  "Mayflower"  days,  and  is  a  pre- 
mium pudding  when  well  made. 

G.  J.  s. 

*  *  * 

WHY,  oh,  w^hy  do  committees  who 
provide  refreshments  at  various 
places  take  it  for  granted  that  every 
one  takes  coffee  adulterated  with  milk 
or  cream?  I  am  one  of  many  who 
cannot  drink  it  thus,  yet  often  no 
option  is  given,  it  is  mixed  or  nothing. 
While  in  Europe  last  summer  the  first 
phrase  in  each  language  that  I  needed 
was  the  one  meaning  hot  water  instead 
of  milk  to  dilute  the  coffee,  intended 
to  be  taken  au  lait,  but,  at  least,  the 
coffee  was  served  plain,  although 
closely  attended  b}^  the  jug  of  hot  milk. 
Often  at  conventions,  church  dinners, 
etc.,  those  of  us  who  hke  our  coffee 
plain  are  thus  denied  the  comfort  of 
the  one  warm  article  on  the  bill  of  fare, 
and  we  protest,  " 'Tain't  fair."  Surely 
it  would  not  be  much  trouble  to  pro- 
vide a  small  pot  of  the  undiluted 
beverage  and  thus  make  happy  more 
than  one.  Sufferer. 

* 

I  HAVE  discovered  an  excellent  way 
of  ^utilizing  my  old  lingerie  blouses. 
I  cut  them  over  into  guimpes  for  my 
small  daughter.  Rip  the  blouse  and 
lay  the  guimpe  pattern  on  it.  You  will 
find  you  can  avoid  all  the  worn  parts 
about  the  neck  and  arms  and  yet  use 
the  buttons  and  buttonholes,  which  is 
a  great  saving.  A  friend  of  mine  made 
two  charming  Empire  dresses  for  her 
little  girl  by  cutting  over  her  old  lin- 
gerie waists  into  yoke  and  sleeves  and 
buying  new  lawn  to  match  for  the  skirts. 


Last  summer  I  discovered  how  to 
bake  potatoes  on  an  electric  stove  — 
it  is  just  one  of  those  little  "single- 
burner"  ones.  I  select  medium-sized 
potatoes  and  put  them  in  a  tin  pie  plate 
with  half  a  dozen  holes  punched  in  the 
bottom.  Then  I  cover  them  with  a  pan 
which  fits  down  close  and  put  a  heavy 
weight  on  top  of  the  pan.  This  last  is 
very  necessary.  I  start  the  cooking  by 
using  the  full  current,  but,  when  the 
potatoes  are  once  hot,  reduce  it  to  half. 
The  potatoes  must  be  turned  now  and 
again.  The  whole  process  takes  barely 
half  an  hour. 

Mrs.  L.'s  Onion  Rarebit 

Fry  half  a  cup  of  sliced  onion  in 
butter,  using  a  large  spider.  Have 
heating  a  cup  and  a  half  of  tomato, 
well  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and 
sugar.  When  the  onion  is  done  to  a 
delicate  brown,  pour  the  hot  tomato 
over  it.  Add  a  cup  of  cheese,  cut  into 
small  bits,  and  stir  until  melted.  Then 
drop  in  two  eggs,  and,  when  they  begin 
to  cook,  stir  gently  till  done.  Have 
ready  on  a  hot  platter  ten  slices  of 
toast.  Pour  the  rarebit  over  them  and 
serve  immediately.  This  quantity  is 
plenty  for  five  persons. 

Pimlicos 

Beat  together  well  one  egg,  a  scant 
half  a  cup  of  milk  and  a  pinch  of  salt. 
Cut  slices  of  bread  in  halves  (if  the 
slices  are  very  large  into  quarters) ,  dip 
into  the  egg  and  milk  and  fry  in  butter 
on  one  side.  Turn,  lay  a  slice  of 
American  cheese  on  each  piece  of  bread 
and  put  a  dash  of  made  mustard  on  the 
cheese.  Cook,  not  too  fast,  until  the 
cheese  is  soft.     Serve  at  once. 


L.  H.  w 


A  Married  Man's  Evenings 

DON'T  you  think  that  after  a  man 
marries  he  should  give  up  all 
such  recreations  as  take  him  away 
from    home    certain    evenings    in    the 


HOME  IDEAS  AND  ECONOMIES 


301 


week?"  asks  a  young  wife  complain- 
ingly. 

Instead  of  groaning  aloud  as  I  want 
to  do,  I  have  to  look  sympathetic  and 
say  something  like  this: 

It  all  depends  on  what  those 
"recreations"  are.  For  instance,  an  ath- 
letic club  is  almost  essential  to  the  well- 
being  of  a  man  physically,  if  he  leads 
a  sedentary  hfe;  and  many  organiza- 
tions that  take  a  man  away  from  home 
are  beneficial  to  his  business  career. 

However,  recreations  purely  social, 
in  which  the  young  wife  cannot  join, 
should  undoubtedly  be  given  up,  for 
his  pleasure  is  supposed  to  be  found 
only  in  her  company  or  where  she  may 
accompany  him.  Certainly  he  is  not 
to  leave  her  entirely  alone  while  he 
attends  a  social  club  of  questionable 
good. 

But  I  groan  inwardly  for  the  com- 
plaining wife.  The  woman,  who  begins 
by  demanding  too  much,  usually  ends 
by  losing  what  is  rightfully  hers.  No 
young  wife  can  succeed  in  monopolizing 
all  a  man's  heart  and  time,  and  she 
could  not  afford  to,  were  it  possible. 
If  he  is  to  be  a  success  in  the  business 
world,  a  large  part  of  his  time  and  heart, 
as  well  as  brain,  must  be  devoted  to  it. 
And  a  Commercial  Club,  Business  Men's 
League,  and  fraternal  orders  of  the 
highest  sort  are  to  be  reckoned  as  fac- 
tors in  that  success,  assets  as  it  were. 
He  cannot  drop  out  of  them  without 
personal  loss,  present  and  future. 
Many  a  widow  is  thanking  God  tonight 
that  she  let  her  husband  remain  a  faith- 
ful Mason. 

Besides,  the  right  sort  of  a  man  will 
appreciate  his  five  or  six  evenings  at 
home  all  the  more,  if  he  is  obliged  to 
spend  one  or  two  down  town.  And  she 
can  make  herself  all  the  more  agreeable 
and  attractive  during  the  five  or  six, 
if  she  has  this  leisure  to  devote  to  her 
letters  to  home  folks  and  girl  chums,  to 
practise  upon  the  piano,  or  to  a  bit  of 
reading,  all  of  which  she  would  lay 
aside  to  entertain  him. 


They  may  not  think  so,  at  first,  but  a 
Httle  separation  is  good  for  a  young 
married  couple.  The  hypnotic  going 
and  coming  continue  the  thrill  of  court- 
ship. A  keen-witted  girl  once  declared 
to  me  •  that  she  hoped  to  marry  a 
traveling  man,  "For  then,"  she  added 
laughingly,  "we  will  not  get  tired  of 
each  other  and  be  old  married  folks  so 
soon."  There  is  more  than  a  bit  of 
truth  here.  That  which  is  continuous 
becomes  commonplace;  and  too  often 
the  commonplace  gets  to  be  deadly  dull. 

Besides,  it  is  egotism,  selfishness, 
jealousy,  and  childish  short-sightedness 
in  a  bride  to  feel  that  her  husband  must 
find  in  her  the  sum  total  of  his  existence. 
She  is  to  be  supreme,  but  unless  they 
move  to  Robinson  Crusoe's  island, 
other  lives  must  touch  theirs,  and  some 
interests  must  be  more  or  less  separate. 
Perfect  marriage  is  a  gradual  blending 
of  two  lives,  not  an  absorption  of  either 
one,  not  a  revolution  of  character,  nor 
even  an  uprooting  of  love  for  the  two 
old  homes  and  all  that  has  been  cher- 
ished in  former  days. 

If  genuine  love  exists  between  the 
two,  both  will  be  unselfish  and  seek, 
voluntarily,  to  eliminate  everything 
that  separates  them  unnecessarily.  But 
the  "recreations"  that  a  man  gives  up, 
in  order  to  stay  at  home,  should  be  those 
of  no  practical  benefit  to  his  life,  and 
the  giving  up  should  be  wholly  of  his 
own  volition.  l.  m. 

"Keeping  Things  Up" 

IN  every  estimate  of  housekeeping 
expenses  there  should  be  a  generous 
margin  for  the  keeping  of  things  up. 
The  wear  and  tear  of  usage,  and,  more 
strange  and  perplexing  still,  the  wear 
and  tear  of  non-usage,  tell  sadly  upon 
our  houses  and  their  furnishings.  Car- 
pets which  are  constantly  trodden 
grow  thin  in  spots,  are  faded  by  the 
sun,  and  become  threadbare;  carpets 
in  closed  rooms  are  devoured  by  the 
moths;    curtains    fade;    family    linen 


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THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


gradually  falls  into  decay.  Everything 
must  be  replenished,  kept  up,  gone 
over  again  and  again,  if  the  domestic 
machinery  is  not  to  creak  and  rust. 

The  wise  housekeeper  buys  every 
season  a  few  new  articles,  and,  so  to 
speak,  has  always  her  reserve  stock  on 
which  to  draw. 

So,  too,  in  other  matters.  The 
judicious  housewife  keeps  everything 
up  to  the  mark.  p.  m.  b. 


Visiting 

WHEN  you  are  visiting,  do  not  let 
your  hostess  be  "twice  glad," 
that  is,  pleased  at  your  arrival,  and 
equally  pleased  at  your  departure;  so 
heed  the  following  suggestions: 

First  of  all,  make  your  time  suit  the 
hostess,  and  when  that  is  settled  do 
not  change  it;  when  the  time  of  the 
visit  has  expired,  don't  stay  one  day 
over. 

Don't  take  a  lot  of  luggage;  never 
have  more  than  one  trunk,  or  it  may  be 
thought  you  are  going  to  take  up  your 
abode  in  the  new  locality. 

Don't  interfere  with  any  family 
arrangements;  the  satisfactory  guest  is 
one  who  adapts  herself  under  all 
circumstances. 

Don't  fail  to  forget  any  little  do- 
mestic upheavals,  should  any  arise, 
and  try  to  carry  away  with  you  only 
the  good  feeling,  that  which  was  meant 
for  you. 

Don't  correct  the  children;  no  matter 
what  parents  say,  they  do  not  like  it. 

Don't  give  an  order  or  a  hint  of  any 
kind  to  a  servant. 

Don't  be  late  to  meals,  and  don't 
invite  a  caller  to  a  meal,  unless  the 
hostess  suggests  it  first. 

Don't  leave  your  possessions  lying 
around;  you  w411  be  given  a  room,  so 
keep  your  belongings  in  it. 

Don't  depend  upon  the  hostess  for 
writing  materials;  have  your  own,  and 
use  them. 


Don't  expect  your  friend  to  supply 
toilet  articles;  every  self-respecting 
person  has  her  own. 

Don't  be  guilty  of  soiling  guest-room 
furnishings,  such  as  bed,  bureau  and 
washstand  accessories. 

Don't  disturb  the  household  by 
coming  in  from  theater  or  party 
late  and  talking,  if  a  friend  should 
escort  you;  host  and  hostess  may  be 
tired. 

Don't  leave  your  room  in  disorder, 
expecting  the  maid  to  rearrange  it 
every  day,  especially  where  only  one 
servant  is  kept. 

Don't  allude  to  the  wonderful  things 
some  other  friend  may  own,  especially 
if  these  good  people  are  only  moder- 
ately circumstanced. 

Don't  ask  any  one  to  mail  unstamped 
letters. 

Don't  contract  any  small  bills  for 
laundry,  papers,  car  fares,  magazines, 
phone  calls  or  possible  express  pack- 
ages; such  trifles  are  easily  forgotten; 
your  hostess  may  be  willing  to  settle 
them,  but  she  should  not  be  permitted 
to  do  so  under  any  circumstances. 

Don't,  at  the  expiration  of  your 
stay,  leave  the  house  without  making 
some  appropriate  gift  to  maid  or 
maids. 

Don't  depend  upon  the  man  of  the 
house  to  look  up  trains,  or  provide 
baggage  tags;  attend  to  these  items 
yourself. 

Don't  over-dress,  just  because  you 
have  clothes,  and  don't  use  slang. 

Don't  talk  about  your  trials,  tribu- 
lations or  health;  people  don't  care  to 
hear  such  things.  Cultivate  bright 
thoughts  and  optimistic  ways,  so  there 
will  be  a  special  charm  about  your 
personality,  which  all  will  feel  the  in- 
stant you  enter  their  presence,  par- 
ticularly if  you  are  not  blessed  with 
beauty  of  face  or  form. 

First,  last  and  always,  remember 
the  welcome  guest  is  the  one  who  helps, 
and  does  not  hinder  her  host  and 
hostess  in  anything. 


'TpHIS  department  is  for  the  benefit  and  free  use  of  our  subscribers.  Questions  relating 
-■■  to  recipes,  and  those  pertaining  to  culinary  science  and  domestic  economics  in 
general,  will  be  cheerfully  answered  by  the  editor.  Communications  for  this  department 
must  reach  us  before  the  first  of  the  month  preceding  that  in  which  the  answers  are  expected 
to  appear.  In  letters  requesting  answers  by  mail,  please  enclose  addressed  and  stamped 
envelope.  For  menus  remit  $1.00.  Address  queries  to  Janet  M.  Hill,  editor,  Boston 
Cooking-School  Magazine,  372  Boylston  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


Query  1671.  —  "Recipe  for  Alligator 
Pear  Salad,  the  dressing  of  which  contains 
wine." 

Alligator  Pear  Salad 

Cut  the  "pears"  in  halves,  discard 
the  seed  and  remove  the  pulp  from  the 
skin  with  a  teaspoon;  dispose  on  a 
bed  of  heart  leaves  of  lettuce.  For 
three  or  four  fruit,  mix  two  table - 
spoonfuls  of  claret,  one  tablespoonful 
of  lemon  juice  and  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  olive  oil,  also  one-fourth  a  teaspoon- 
ful,  each,  of  salt  and  paprika,  and  pour 
over  the  salad.  Serve  as  soon  as  pre- 
pared. The  pulp  of  alligator  pear  dis- 
colors very  quickly  when  exposed  to 
the  air.  On  account  of  the  large  pro- 
portion of  fat  present  in  the  fruit,  the 
dressing  is  often,  as  in  the  recipe 
above,  made  of  equal  measures  of  acid 
and  oil. 


Query    1672.  —  "Recipes       for       Using 
Cooked  Figs  other  than  as  Cake  Filling." 

Sliced. Figs  in  Sherry  Wine  Jelly 

1      tablespoonful     of    ^  a  cup  of  sugar 


granulated   gela- 
tine 

^  a  cup  of  cold  water 
f  a  cup  of  boiling  water 


^  a  cup  of  sherry  wine 
Juice  of  ^  a  lemon 
5  or  6  figs 
Whipped  cream 


Soften  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water, 
dissolve  in  the  boiling  water;  add  the 
sugar  and  stir  occasionally  until  cold. 
Add  the .  wine  and  lemon  juice.     Let 


a  mold  holding  a  scant  pint  become 
chilled  in  cold  or  ice  water.  A  fluted 
mold  is  good  for  this  dish.  Cut  the 
figs  in  slices,  dip  some  of  these  in  the 
jelly  mixture  and  use  them  to  decorate 
the  mold;  then  fill  the  mold,  alter- 
nately, with  slices  of  figs  and  the 
mixture,  letting  the  jelly  "set"  par- 
tially, each  time,  before  adding  the 
slices  of  figs.  When  the  jelly  is  un- 
molded  garnish  with  whipped  cream, 
put  on  with  bag  and  tube,  and  bits  of 
fig.  Orange  or  lemon  juice  may  be 
used  in  place  of  the  sherry  wine. 

Macedoine  of  Midwinter  Fruit 

5  or  6  cooked  figs         I  1  grape-fruit  or 
1  banana  I  2  oranges 

Cut  the  figs  in  smooth  slices  of  the 

same  size,  scrape  the  banana  and  cut 

in  thin  slices;  remove  the  grape-fruit 

or  orange  pulp  in  neat  pieces  from  the 

respective  fruits,  cut  in  halves.     Save 

all  of  the  juice.     Dispose  the  fruit  in 

glass  or  china  saucers,  reserving  a  slice 

of  banana  and  five  or  six  sHces  of  fig 

for  each  saucer;  divide  the  fruit  juice 

among   the    dishes;    set    the    slices    of 

banana  in  the  center  and  arrange  the 

sUces  of  fig  from  the  banana  to  the 

edge,    like    the    spokes    of    a    wheel. 

Sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar  before 

finishing  the  dishes,  or  pass  the  sugar 

at  time  of  serving. 


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Fig  Whip 


5  cooked  figs 
4  whites  of  eggs 
\  a  cup  of  sugar 
I  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 


Boiled  custard  made 

of  1  pint  of  milk 
4  yolks  of  eggs 
J  a  cup  of  sugar 
\  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 


Cut  the  figs  in  tiny  bits;  beat  the 
whites  dry;  gradually  beat  in  the 
sugar  and  salt,  then  fold  in  the  figs. 
Turn  into  a  buttered-and-sugared  dish. 
Bake  on  many  folds  of  paper  and 
surrounded  with  boiling  water.  The 
water  should  not  boil  during  the  cook- 
ing. The  whip  or  soufifi^  is  done  when 
firm  in  the  center.  Serve  hot  with 
boiled  custard,  or  with  cream  and  sugar. 


Fig-and-Orange  Salad 

1  or  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  lemon  juice 

I  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt 


^  a  pound  of  cooked 

figs 
3  oranges 
1  head  of  lettuce 
3  or  4  tablespoonfuls 

of  oil 

Dispose  the  heart  leaves  of  the 
lettuce,  carefully  washed  and  dried, 
to  form  a  bed;  on  this  turn  the  pulp  of 
the  oranges,  freed  from  skin  membrane 
and  seeds,  above  dispose  the  figs,  cut 
in  narrow  slices.  Dissolve  the  salt  in 
the  lemon  juice,  add  the  oil,  mix 
thoroughly  and  pour  over  the  whole; 
turn  the  fruit  over  and  over,  and 
serve  at  once. 

Steamed  Fig  Pudding 

1  pound  of  figs  1  teaspoonful  of  cin- 
^  a  cup  of  nuts  namon 

1  a  pound  of  suet  1  teaspoonful  of  mace 

2  cups    of    bread  ^a      teaspoonful      of 

crumbs  cloves 

2  cups  of  milk  4  yolks  of  eggs 

f  a  cup  of  sugar  4  whites  of  eggs 
1  teaspoonful  of  salt 

Chop  the  figs,  nuts  and  suet  together 

(cook  the  figs  a  few  moments  and  they 

can  be  chopped  more  easily),  mix  the 

sugar,  salt  and  spices  and  add  to  the 

beaten  yolks;  mix  the  bread  crumbs 

through  the  fig-suet  mixture,  then  mix 

in  the  yolks  and  sugar  and,  lastly,  add 

the  whites,   beaten  dry.     Steam  in  a 

well-buttered  mold  four  hours.     Serve 

with  hard  or  liquid  sauce,  or  both. 


Query    1673.  —  "Recipe       for       Onions 
Stuffed  with  Nuts." 


Onions  Stuffed  wijh  Pecan  Nuts 

Peel  eight  Spanish  onions.  Let  cook 
in  boiling  w^ater  an  hour,  then  remove 
from  the  water,  and,  when  cooled  a 
little,  cut  out  a  piece  about  two  inches 
across  around  the  root  end,  thus  leav- 
ing a  thin  shell  of  onion.  Chop  fine 
one  cup  of  pecan-nut  meats.  Mix 
these  with  a  cup  of  grated  bread 
crumbs,  stirred  into  one-third  a  cup  of 
melted  butter,  a  scant  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  a  dash  of  black  pepper,  a 
tablespoonful  of  fine-chopped  parsley 
and  a  beaten  egg,  or,  better  still,  two 
yolks  of  eggs.  Sprinkle  the  inside  of 
the  onion  cases  with  salt,  very  Hghtly, 
then  fill  w4th  the  nut-mixture,  giving 
it  a  dome  shape  on  top.  Set  the  pre- 
pared onions  in  a  baking  dish  suitable 
to  send  to  the  table,  pour  in  about  a 
cup  of  white  stock,  and  set  to  cook  in 
a  moderate  oven.  Let  cook  about 
three-fourths  an  hour,  basting  occa- 
sionally with  the  liquid  in  the  pan,  and 
at  last  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter 
melted  in  hot  water.  Before  serving 
pour  into  the  dish  around  the  onions  a 
cup  of  cream  sauce.  Serve  from  the 
dish  in  which  they  are  cooked.  Other 
varieties  of  nuts  may  be  used,  also  the 
egg  or  yolks  of  eggs  may  be  omitted. 


Query  1674.  —  "Recipe  for  Preserved 
Cumquats." 

Preserved  Cumquats 

Wash  the  cumquats  in  cold  water 
and  dry  each  one,  separately,  on  a  soft 
cloth,  to  clean  thoroughly.  Weigh  the 
fruit.  Cut  each  fruit  in  lengthwise 
quarters  and  discard  the  seeds."  Wash 
and  slice  one  or  two  lemons  (discard- 
ing seeds)  for  each  pound  of  cum- 
quats. Cover  the  fruit  with  boiling 
water  and  let  simmer  about  three 
hours,  or  until  the  peel  is  very  tender. 
Set  aside  until  the  next  day.  Take  the 
weight  of  the  fruit  in  sugar,  add  half 
the    weight   in    water,    stir   until    dis- 


Menus  for  Buffet  Suppers 


February  22 


I 

Galantine  of  Veal,  Sliced  Thin 
Celery,  Nut-and-Green  Pepper  Salad 

Bread-and-Butter  Sandwiches 

Maraschino  Cherries  in  Lemon  Jelly 

(Individual  Molds) 

Whipped  Cream  Decoration 

Coffee.     Angel  Cake  lets 

Salted  Peanuts.     Maple  Bonbons 

II 

Creamed  Chicken  or  Oysters  in  Puff  C^es 

Small  Baking  Powder  Biscuit,  Butterea 

Olives.     Pickles 

Coffee 

Little  Pound  Cakes  Lady  Fingers 

Meringues 

Candied  Flag  Root.     Candied  Ginger 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream 

Pineapple  Sherbet  in  Cups 

Maraschino  Cherries  above 


February  14 


I 

Heart-shaped   Swedish   Timbale   Cases  with 

Creamed  Chicken,  Oysters  or  Lobster,  etc. 

Heart-shaped  Deviled  Ham  Sandwiches 

Olives.     Pickles.     Radishes 

Hot  Coffee 

Heart-shaped  Cakes.     Meringues 

Raspberry  Sherbet 

II 

White  Bread,  Cream  Cheese  and  Preserved 

Ginger  Sandwiches  (Heart-shaped) 

White  Bread,  Butter-and-Honey  Sandwiches 

(Heart-shaped) 

Heart-shaped  Cakes 

Sponge  Drops  with  Jelly 

Heart-shaped  Peppermints 

Cocoa,  Whipped  Cream 


CREPE-PAPER  TABLE  FOR  ST.  VALENTINE'S  DAY 

(Buffet  Service) 


The 
Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


Vol.  XV 


FEBRUARY,   191 1 


No.  7 


Nursery  Hangings 

By  Frances  Sheafer  Waxman 


THE  disposition  of  hangings  in  a 
nursery  is  the  very  most  difiQ- 
cult  problem  the  home  deco- 
rator has  to  confront,  for  many  con- 
siderations other  than  simply  that  of 
effect  have  to  enter  into  the  project,  — 
light,  warmth,  beauty,  utility,  hygiene. 
It  takes  almost  a  genius  to  combine 
all  these  qualities  in  one  small  room. 
But  then  the  Anglo-Saxon  mother  has 
a  genius  for  providing  the  proper 
setting  for  her  children.  No  nurseries 
on  earth  are  so  sanely,  so  sweetly  suit- 
able for  the  growth  of  a  child  as  ours 
here  in  America. 

We  are  not  so  stoic  as  the  English, 
nor  so  given  to  considering  the  non- 
essentials as  the  French.  We  borrow 
from  France  the  French  cheerfulness, 
and  from  England  a  due  appreciation 
for  light  and  air.  The  American  com- 
bination is  happy  enough  to  endure  as 
a  pleasant  memory  in  any  child's  recol- 
lection through  all  his  grown-up  years. 

A  good  result,  however,  cannot  be 
arrived  at  haphazard.  Every  mother 
must  study  her  decorative  problem 
carefully,    the    lighting   of   her    child's 


room,  its  size,  the  disposition  of  its 
furniture.  The  bed  must  be  out  of 
drafts,  the  little  study  table  in  the 
light.  The  colors  dare  not  be  somber, 
nor  the  materials  of  a  kind  that  would 
accumulate  dust.  Too  few  hangings 
result  in  bareness,  too  many  shut  out 
light  and  air.  So  the  problem  must  be 
weighed  and  considered  in  all  its  aspects. 
It  is  the  purpose  of  this  writing  to 
suggest  some  simple,  easily  executed 
nursery  schemes,  possible  of  realization 
in  both  expensive  and  in  cheap  mate- 
rials. The  three  illustrations  are  as  far 
as  can  be  apart  in  inspiration,  and  yet 
each  is  a  successful  room.  The  first  is 
a  child's  Colonial  sleeping-room.  In 
many  American  households  there  still 
exist  isolated  articles  of  furniture,  which 
date  from  the  early  part  of  the  last 
century,  or  before;  old  mirrors,  high 
chests  of  drawers,  chairs  of  good  lines. 
These  are  not  often  enough,  nor  are 
they  imposing  enough  to  make  up  a 
pretentious  Colonial  room.  Collected 
in  some  such  fashion  as  the  drawing 
depicts,  they  may  become  a  very  good 
child's   room.      The   needed   touch   of 


307 


508 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING -SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


gayety  may  be  obtained  in  the  hanging, 
which  could  well  be  of  a  bright  English 
print  in  one  of  the  modem  copies  of  a 
last  century  stuff,  those,  for  example, 
resembling  the  Joiiys  or  the  Toiles  de 
Gene.  Some  of  the  latter  fabrics  have 
pleasing  animal  motives,  which  should 
appeal  to  a  child's  fancy.  In  the  little 
room  of  the  illustration  the  print  is 
used  as  doorway  curtains,  as  a  valance 
for  the  bed,  and  to  upholster  the  chair. 
It  would,  of  course,  also  be  used  as 
window  curtains.  The  colorings  of 
these  prints  is  usually  good,  gay  pinks, 
blues  and  greens  on  white  and  cream 
grounds.  Since  the  surface  is  ver\" 
much  covered,  these  prints  are  not 
entirely  satisfactory  either  for  bed- 
spreads or  for  tablecloths.  For  these 
uses  it  is  suggested  that,  in  a  room  of 
this  sort,  an  embroidered,  outlined  or 
stenciled  cover  be  used.  Even  a  kind 
of  modified  patchwork  quilt  might  be 
good,  the  patches  being  applied  with 
more  semblance  of  design  than  in  those 
which  are  really  old. 

Whatever  motive  is  used  on  the  bed- 


spread could  be  carried  out  on  the 
table  cover  and  on  the  bureau  and 
washstand  covers,  and  the  colors 
used  should  be  determined  by  the  pre- 
dominating note  in  the  print  hangings. 
The  curtained  partition,  shown  in 
the  second  illustration,  is  a  compromise 
between  a  curtain  and  a  screen.  Cur- 
tained beds  went  out  of  fashion  in 
America  some  decades  ago,  when  the 
cult  for  fresh  air  came  in.  They  are 
still  popular  in  Europe  and  they  have 
their  advantages.  The  illustration 
shows  a  practical  way  of  making  an 
alcove  into  which  the  bed  will  fit.  It 
is  provided  with  a  curtain  strung  on  a 
rod  which  is  attached  to  a  partition. 
Since  the  partition  does  not  reach  to 
the  ceiling,  there  is  every  chance  for  a 
free  circulation  of  air,  even  with  the 
curtain  drawn.  The  outside  of  the 
screen  partition  is  utilized  ingeniously 
as  a  background  for  the  washstand. 
There  is  a  mirror  set  into  the  upper 
section,  and  a  half -curtain,  which  is 
strung  on  rods  at  the  top  and  bottom, 
so  that  it  can  be  pushed  entirely  back 


^        ^        "B?  "^        ^ 

;       f*;       ^        •=^         ^         ^         ^         «to         ^ 

s?    ;^    ^     *     ^     #     *   ^  ii? 


Child's  Colonial  Room 


NURSERY  HANGINGS 


309 


Child's  Alcove  Room 

for  air  if  need  be.  These  curtains  are 
of  unbleached  muslin,  with  ornamental 
borders  made  by  appliqueing  on  the 
figure  motives  cut  from  a  cheap  print. 
The  single  window  curtain  is  treated  in 
the  same  w^ay.  The  frieze  is  a  wide 
landscape  which  gives  a  sense  of  dis- 
tance to  the  room.  The  floor  is  bare 
except  for  rugs,  and  the  washstand 
alcove  has  a  clean  linoleum  on  the  floor. 
The  third  of  these  room  suggestions 
is  a  plain  little  cottage  interior,  all  its 
furnishings  being  of  the  simplest  and 
least  expensive  materials.  The  bed  is 
pine.  The  washstand  is  a  table  pro- 
vided with  a  splash  board,  the  study 
table  is  a  deal  kitchen  table.  All  of 
these  articles  of  furniture  have  been 
treated  to  two  coats  of  white  enamel. 
The  floor  is  painted.  Simple  rugs  are 
placed  at  the  bedside  and  at  the  wash- 
stand.  The  mirror  and  the  chair  are 
modem  copies  of  good  old  models. 
The  pictures  are  chosen  with  care  and 
are  all  of  good  subjects.  There  is  an 
attempt  at  preserving  a  consistent 
scheme    here,    by    carrying    the    same 


motive  of  decoration  through  all  the 
ornamentation  of  the  room.  The  frieze 
is  a  good  little  running  pattern,  a 
Noah's  Ark  design.  The  same  design 
has  been  adapted  as  a  stencil  to  the 
cottage  window  curtains,  to  the  bed 
cover,  the  screen,  the  tablecloth  and  to 
the  curtain  which  hangs  below  the 
washstand.  This  idea  could  also  be 
carried  out  in  appliqued  motives  or  in 
outlined  figures  copied  from  the  nursery 
rhyme  books.  This  little  room  is  clean 
and  neat,  and  it  has  the  special  ad- 
vantage of  being  inexpensive. 

Although  the  matter  of  nursery 
hangings  can  be  determined  by  bare 
necessity,  the  rule  being  that  no  more 
shall  be  provided  than  are  absolutely 
required,  the  other  decorations  of  the 
room  allow  more  scope  for  the  fancy. 
Nursery  panels  and  friezes  are  made  in 
abundance  nowadays,  and  pictures 
suitable  for  nursery  decoration  are 
innumerable.  A  series  of  framed  prints 
can  be  made  to  serve  as  a  low  frieze 
with  very  good  effect,  and  the  nursery 
panels  printed  in  flat  tones,  if  under- 
standingly  placed  on  a  wall,  are  good 


Child's  Cottage  Room 


310 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


bits  of  decoration  in  themselves.     Pic- 
tures   need   not    necessarily    be    hung 
high.    They  should  be  hung  low  enough 
for  the  child  to  really  see  into  them. 
It  is  a  good  plan,  too,  to  use  fresh 


flowers,  as  the  French  do,  as  part  of 
the  nursery  decoration.  The  child  can 
be  made  to  love  and  care  for  them,  and 
they  are  as  much  an  element  of  beauty 
certainly  as  any  article  made  by  man. 


King  Arthur's  Round  Table  as  it  Hangs  in  the  Great  Hall 
OF  Winchester  Castle 


One  of  the  World's  Most  Famous  Tables 


By  Frances  R.  Sterrett 


IS  there  any  table  in  history  or  story 
that  is  better  known  to  old  and 
young  than  that  of  King  Arthur? 
Have  we  not  all  thrilled  at  the  doughty 
deeds  performed  by  the  knights  of  thati 
marvelous  table?  Have  we  not,  too, 
regarded  it  as  a  myth,  or  as  one  of  the 
important  accessories  of^  a  mythical 
tale,  enchanting  because  it  was  myth- 
ical ?  How  we  deceived  ourselves !  For 
the  table  was  real;  it  must  have  been, 
for  you  can  see  it  to  this  day  high  on 
the  wall  of  the  great  hall  in  Winchester 
Castle,  England. 


The  custodian  of  the  castle  declares 
that  the  huge  round  of  stout  boards  is 
the  actual  table  around  which  King 
A;-thur  and  his  knights  assembled, 
and  as  proof  he  quotes  from  the  Win- 
chester Annals,  an  authentic  record  of 
all  that  has  taken  place  in  and  around 
Winchester,  which  was  once  the  royal 
city  of  England,  and  this  record  runs 
back  for  many  hundred  years. 

The  table  is  mentioned  many  times 
in  the  Annals.  Once  it  was  shown  to 
William  the  Conqueror,  after  his  in- 
vasion of  England,   and  other  entries 


ONE  OF  THE  WORLD'S  MOST  FAMOUS  TABLES 


311 


prove  that  it  has  hung  in  Winchester 
Castle  for  over  five  hundred  years. 
Think  of  that,  boys  and  girls  of  all  ages, 
who  have  reveled  in  the  stories  of  the 
peerles  king,  his  round  table  and  his 
brave  knights. 

According  to  the  custodian,  the  table 
was  made,  in  the  beginning,  by  Merlin, 
the  wise  magician,  for  Guinevere's 
grandfather,  and  her  father  presented  it 
to  her  and  the  young  King  Arthur  on 
their  wedding  day.  When  King  Arthur 
established  his  famous  order  of  the 
Knights  of  the  Round  Table,  and  chose 
from  among  the  many  brave  men  at  his 
court  those  who  were  to  assist  him 
with  their  counsel  in  times  of  peace 
and  war,  he  took  this  wedding  gift  for 
his  banquet  table,  as  it  had  neither 
head  nor  foot,  a  higher  nor  a  lower 
place,  and  the  king,  as  you  remember, 
wished  all  who  sat  there  to  be 
equals. 

The  table  has  changed  since  it  was 
used  for  Round  Table  banquets  and 
councils,  for  the  Winchester  Annals 
note  that  Henry  VIIL  had  it  repainted, 
and  Henry  VIIL  never  lost  an  oppor- 
tunity to  emblazon  everywhere  the 
emblem  of  his  house,  the  Tudor  rose. 
So  in  the  center  of  the  table,  almost 
concealing  the  representation  of  the 
sun  that  was  the  original  dcoration,  is 
now  a  pink  Tudor  rose.  But  between 
the  petals  the  sun's  rays  can  still  be 
seen.  Around  the  flower  is  King 
Arthur's  motto,  and  radiating  from  it 
to  a  broad  white  band  that  encircles 
the  table  are  stripes  of  white  and  blue. 
On  the  encircling  band,  at  the  end  of 
each  stripe,  is  the  name  of  a  knight,  to 
mark  the  place  where  he  sat.  Looking 
close  one  can  spell  out  the  quaint 
English  letters  and  find  the  old  familiar 
names,  Sir  Lancelot,  Sir  Galahad,  Sir 
Bedivere,  and  all  the  rest  of  the  brilliant 
band  whose  brave  deeds  and  gentle 
courtesy  we  read  of  with  delight. 
Where  King  Arthur  sat.  King  Henry 
VIIL  had  painted  a  picture  of  the  king 
in  his  royal  robes. 


The  table  is  a  huge  circular  piece  of 
wood,  eighteen  feet  in  diameter,  and  as 
it  hangs  on  the  wall  today  it  is  en- 
closed in  a  circle  of  oak  to  protect  its 
edge. 

In  spite  of  King  Arthur's  wish  that 
all  the  places  at  the  table  should  be 
of  equal  honor,  there  are  two  that  are 
particularly  distinguished,  the  Seat 
Perilous  and  the  Judas  Seat.  The 
Seat  Perilous,  at  the  right  of  the  king, 
was  only  for  the  pure  in  heart,  and 
there  Sir  Galahad  sat.  The  second 
special  place  has  become  known  as  the 
Judas  Seat,  for  it  was  occupied  by  Sir 
Modred,  who  struck  the  blow  that 
killed  his  king. 

Neither  legend  nor  the  Winchester 
Annals  give  a  complete  record  of  the 
famous  table  and  little  is  known  of 
its  history  from  the  death  of  King 
Arthur  until  the  coming  of  WiUiam  of 
Normandy.  The  early  historians  never 
doubted  its  authenticity  and  con- 
fidently referred  to  it  as  "Arthur's 
table."  For  five  hundred  years,  at 
least,  it  has  hung  on  the  wall  of  Win- 
chester Castle,  and  no  one  in  Winches- 
ter will  admit  that  there  is  any  doubt 
that  it  is  actually  the  table  around 
which  King  Arthur  and  his  knights 
gathered  to  eat  haunches  of  venison, 
roast  pheasants  and  herons,  rich  stews 
and  pastries,  and  to  consult  over  the 
wrongs  and  injustice  that  were  brought 
to  them  to  be  made  right. 

The  grand  old  hall  no  longer  echoes 
to  the  story  of  knightly  deed  or  the 
song  of  the  minstrel,  and  it  is  only 
when  visitors  wander  in  that  it  re- 
sounds with  human  voices.  The  tall 
marble  pillars  and  stone  wall  are, 
perhaps,  all  that  is  left  of  the  original 
castle  hall,  once  the  center  of  royal 
gatherings;  for  even  the  windows  and 
roof  have  been  altered  since  the  days 
when  the  shields  of  Arthur's  knights 
emblazoned  the  walls  with  gold  and 
gay  colors.  The  tapestries,  embroi- 
dered with  tales  of  valor,  have  dropped 
to  pieces ;  the  brave  men  and  the  beauti- 


312 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


ful  ladies,  whose  battles  they  fought, 
have  long  since  passed  away,  but  the 
Round  Table  still  hangs  on  the  wall, 
under  the  high  window,  mute  evidence 


of  a  day  when  knightly  strength 
was  dedicated  to  the  protection  of 
fair  women  and  the  service  of 
God. 


O 


nee  in  a 


Whil< 


Once  in  a  while  the  sun  shines  out, 

And  the  arching  skies  are  a  perfect  blue; 
Once  in  a  while  mid  clouds  of  doubt 

Hope's     brightest     stars     come     peeping 
through. 
Our  paths  lead  down  by  the  meadows  fair, 
Where  the    sweetest    blossoms    nod    and 
smile, 
And  we  lay  aside  our  cross  of  care 
Once  in  a  while. 


Once  in  a  while  within  our  own 

We  clasp  the  hand  of  a  steadfast  friend; 

Once  in  a  while  we  hear  a  tone 

Of  love  with  the  heart's  own  voice  to  blend; 

And  the  dearest  of  all  our  dreams  come  true, 
And  on  life's  way  is  a  golden  mile; 

Each  thirsting  flower  is  kissed  with  dew 
Once  in  a  while. 


Once  in  a  while  in  the  desert  sand 

We  find  a  spot  of  the  fairest  green; 
Once  in  a  while  from  where  we  stand 

The  hills  of  Paradise  are  seen; 
And  a  perfect  joy  in  our  hearts  we  hold, 

A  joy  that  the  world  cannot  defile; 
We  trade  earth's  dross  for  the  purest  gold 

Once  in  a  while.  — Nixon  Waterman. 


Crepe-Paper  Table  for  Washington's  Birthday 

(Buffet  Service) 


The  Decline  of  Gentility 

By  Mrs.  Charles  Norman 


THERE  was  a  good  deal  of  public 
interest  a  few  years  ago  when 
distinguished  persons  all  over 
the  land  were  defining  the  word  "gentle- 
man." One  well-known  woman  in- 
cluded in  her  Hst  of  requirements  a 
college  education,  but  this  definition 
was  not  popular,  eliminating,  as  it  did, 
men  extremely  prominent  in  business 
and  in  society,  and  excluding  for  many 
individuals  their  entire  circle  of  ac- 
quaintances. 

Even  the  college  men,  except  those 
just  graduating,  were  displeased. 
"Why,"  said  an  elderly  man,  himself 
a  Harvard  graduate  and  a  real  gentle- 
man, "that  even  leaves  out  Jones,  my 
negro  stableman;  and  if  manners  alone 
are  considered,  I  vow  there  is  no 
superior  to  him  anywhere.  He  is 
never  too  much  engrossed  with  his 
own  affairs  to  lend  respectful  attention 
to  yours,  and,  with  his  mind  on  you 
instead  of  himself,  he  answers  you  with 
unvarying  gentiUty,  though  his  lan- 
guage is  unspeakably  awkward." 

This  statement  summarizes,  about 
as  well  as  one  paragraph  can,  the 
entire  question  of  manners.  There  is, 
without  doubt,  an  elegance  and  charm, 
a  confidence,  which  accompanies  mental 
acquisitions.  There  is  also  a  sort  of 
lack  of  barbarism,  which  follows  a  study 
of  etiquette,  but  true  politeness  cannot 
be  taught.  It  would  be  impossible  to 
set  down  rules  of  conduct  that  would 
make  a  lady  of  every  woman  or  a 
gentleman  of  every  man. 

The  negro  stableman  had,  as  the 
foundation  of  his  character,  unselfish- 
ness, and,  despite  his  ignorance,  self- 
reUance.  He  not  only  felt  well  disposed 
toward  mankind  and  prompted  to 
gentle  behavior,  but  he  was  unaware 
of  himself  and  able  to  speak  with 
naturalness.      His    place    was    as    im- 

^313 


portant  in  the  world's  economy  as 
another  man's.  He  had,  without 
learning,  that  which  education  does 
not  always  supply,  a  free  use  of  one's 
powers  —  ease  of  manner. 

Politeness  is  simply  a  happy  way  of 
doing  or  saying  things.  Who  of  us 
has  not  been  surprised  into  rudeness? 
How  many  children  have  been  pun- 
ished for  saying  impolite  things,  which 
they  would  never  have  said  but  for 
embarrassment?  To  have  control  of 
ourselves,  then,  to  have  our  tongues 
governable,  these  were  half  of  good 
manners.  The  other  half  is  in  a  kindly 
disposition. 

There  are  always,  to  be  sure,  certain 
codes  or  rules  of  behavior,  of  which  it 
is  well  for  young  people  to  be  aware, 
lest  they  be  guilty  of  high  crime,  such 
as  eating  with  their  knives.  In  such 
formal  matters  one  may  have  very 
grotesque  manners  simply  by  being 
out  of  style.  Fashions  differ;  present- 
day  manners  may  not  be  judged  by 
old-time  standards.  If  one  should 
appear  in  society  in  the  costume  of 
George  Washington,  one  would  be  no 
more  conspicuous  than  by  appearing 
in  the  manners  of  Washington.  Even 
if,  in  so  small  a  matter  as  letter- writing, 
a  man  should  revert  to  the  ceremonious 
style  of  his  ancestors,  he  would  become 
ridiculous. 

We  have  not  time,  nowadays,  to 
"remain,  my  dear  sir,  your  obedient 
servant."  It  is  the  utmost  we  can  do 
to  be  "respectfully  yours,"  and  when 
times  are  pressing,  as  they  usually  are, 
we  abbreviate  the  "respectfully"  and 
cut  off  the  "  yours." 

A  low  bow,  hat  in  hand,  takes  too 
much  time;  and  it  is  sufficient,  if  a  man 
simply  touch  his  hat  or  lift  his  hand 
toward  it.  Let  him  not  stop  us  to  ask 
about  the   family,  but   shout  "hello" 


314 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


and  hurry  on.  W^  are  marching  in 
line  with  a  few  thousand  others,  and 
if  any  one  interposes  a  ceremonious 
remark,  reqmring  an  answer,  we  may 
lose  our  place.  Naturally  this  is  ex- 
tremely vexatious,  and  with  indignation 
in  our  hearts,  if  not  on  our  lips,  we 
crowd  back  into  place.  Our  neighbor 
frowns  and  pushes,  but  we  jostle  him 
hard.  This,  we  admit,  is  not  mannerly, 
but  we  must  get  on  in  the  world.  Un- 
selfishness, which  must  underlie  all 
true  politeness,  is  the  very  thing  we 
are  trying  to  eliminate.  Greed  and 
haste  will  not  keep  company  with 
gentility,  but  these  are  the  watchwords 
of  the  day. 

We  comfort  ourselves  for  this  change 
of  affairs  by  saying  it  is  inevitable, 
and  so  it  is.  In  many  cases,  perhaps, 
it  is  not  deplorable,  but  we  must  not 
go  to  the  extreme  of  letting  go  all  our 
symbols  of  reverence  and  regard.  True 
politeness  is  not  superficial. 

"Manners  are  not  idle,  but  are  the  fruit 
Of  lofty  natures  and  of  noble  minds." 

Their  foundation  is  character. 

We  may  keep  our  mouths  closed  and 
avoid  betraying  our  ignorance,  but  no 
amount  of  care  will  enable  us  to  hide 
our  ill-breeding.  Our  grandmothers 
were  not  all  wrong,  when  they  shook 
their  heads  over  the  would-be  aristo- 
crats and  ominously  predicted,  "Blood 
will  tell." 

A  New  York  woman  traveling  in  the 
South  was  surprised  to  have  a  negro 
porter  say  to  her:  "You's  a  North'n 
lady,  ain't  you?  I  can  tell  you  ain't 
use  to  have'n  anybody  tote  yo' satchel." 

We  make  it  a  rule  to  do  as  the 
Romans,  when  we  are  in  Rome;  still  we 
are  foreigners,  for  all  that,  and  native 
Romans  know  us  as  such. 

Travel,  it  used  to  be  considered,  gave 
the  finishing  touch  to  fine  manners ;  we 
were  reminded  that  the  rolling  stone 
got  a  good  polish;  but  we  assume  that 
somewhat  depended  upon  the  original 
character  of  the  stone  and  the  surface 


over  which  it  rolled.  Its  angles  would 
probably  be  reduced,  but  it  might  tell, 
in  ineffaceable  scratches,  a  hard  history. 
One  of  the  most  commonplace  women 
I  ever  met  had  "crossed  the  Atlantic 
seventeen  times."  She  had  spent  most 
of  her  mature  years  in  travel,  while 
another  well-mannered  lady  drudged 
all  her  life  upon  an  isolated  farm. 

Perhaps  I  should  not  say  drudged, 
for  she  carried  her  work  like  a  sacred 
burden.  Plain  dealing  had  so  well 
established  her  character  that  wise 
people  did  not  attempt  to  delude  or 
dazzle  her.  Her  honest  eyes  would  have 
outwitted  them.  Her  behavior  had  in 
it  both  self-respect  and  consideration. 
Self-esteem  and  esteem  for  others! 
These  dictated  her  speech,  which  was 
beautiful.  These  made  her  a  lady  in 
spite  of  toil-warped  hands.  There  is 
always  some  nobility  in  every  land,  in 
every  village  and  community,  and  it  is 
easy  enough  to  tell  of  whom  it  consists. 

Wealth  and  travel  may  supply  what 
we  call  polish,  but  the  virtue  is  only 
skin  deep;  it  is  more  disagreeable  than 
the  veneer  that  covers  cheap  furniture. 

I  have  a  strong  faith  in  woman's 
ability  to  redeem  mankind  from  any 
folly,  unless  she  herself  be  its  victim. 
In  this  case  the  woman  must  cure  her- 
self first.  She  has  grown  so  careless 
of  her  own  speech  that  she  has  lost  her 
dignity  and  her  influence.  Her  new 
position  in  the  world  is  doubtless  for- 
tunate in  many  ways,  but  it  has  not 
improved  her  own  manners  nor  the 
manners  of  men.  Chivalry  included 
protection  to  the  weaker  sex,  but  we 
are  not  now  permitted  to  use  the  words 
"weaker  sex."  Women  have  become 
men's  colaborers  and  competitors,  and 
men  will  not  be  more  civil  to  them  than 
they  are  required  to  be. 

Besides,  it  is  upon  women  that  the 
child's  teaching  depends.  Slang  and 
familiarity  in  speech  are  the  first  steps 
toward  familiarity  in  manners,  yet  in 
our  day,  daughters  and  sons  alike  are 
allowed    to    shout,    "Hello"   to    their 


FACTS 


315 


parents  and  grandparents,  and  to  greet 
the  children  as  "kids."  They  have  no 
respect  for  authority  in  school,  home, 
church  or  state;  but  speak  of  their 
teachers  and  rulers  by  such  nicknames 
as  shall  insure  ridicule.  By  such  titles 
as  "Silly  Billy"  they  bring,  not  only 
the  king,  but  the  throne  he  sits  upon, 
into  contempt. 

The  moral  training  of  children,  and 
especially  that  branch  including  civil- 
ities, is  left  to  themselves.  They  learn 
from  each  other:  the  boldest  lead. 
Parents  have  not  time.  Haste  is  the 
irrevocable  order  of  the  day.  We 
cannot  even  go  to  church  soberly,  but 
must  be  in  a  panic  getting  ready.  One 
might  think  that,  at  the  table,  there 
would  be  leisure  for  decorum,  but,  on 
the  contrary,  the  average  person  does 
not  take  time  to  eat  his  meals  decently. 
Children  come  to  the  table  after  the 
meal  has  begun  and  leave  before  it  is 
ended.    They  are  free  to  cram  and  talk 


at  the  same  time,  or  to  refuse  in  suUen- 

ness  everything  set  before  them. 

Even  the  boy  of  fifteen,  though  his 

brain  has  attained  its  full  size,  lacks 

judgment.     For  this  reason  the  period 

is  dangerous;  his  powers  are  so  great, 

his  reason  is  so  feeble.    At  this  time  his 

manners  are  perhaps  the  bluntest,  for 

he  is  at 

"  that  age  'twixt  man  and  youth 
When  thought  is  speech  and  speech  is  truth." 

He  says  whatever  he  likes,  but  he  is  a 
young  agnostic  and  his  mental  attitude 
is  evidenced  in  every  word  and  gesture. 
Let  the  youth,  however,  be  im- 
pressed with  heroic  life  of  whatever  age, 
let  him  get  away  from  avarice  and  be 
content  with  faithful  service,  and 
through  the  admiration  of  golden  deeds 
and  the  doing  of  them  his  bearing  will 
become  manly,  his  speech  will  cease  to 
be  coarse  and  unruly.  It,  also,  will  be 
golden,  and  even  in  this  mannerless  age 
there  shall  arise  a  gentleman. 


Facts 


By  Kate  Gannett  Wells 


F 


ilRST  get  your  facts,  then  you 
can  manipulate  them  to  suit 
yourself,"  said  Mark  Twain. 
But  so  many  of  us  don't  or  won't  wait 
for  facts,  as  we  like  to  go  ahead  right  off 
at  something,  and  so  take  inferences, 
innuendoes,  wrong  conclusions  as  facts. 
It  goes  without  saying  that  there  is 
nothing  so  difficult  to  get  at  as  a  pure, 
unadulterated  fact.  If  evolved  from 
our  consciousness  it  may  not  be  a  fact 
at  all,  only  a  sequence  in  relationships. 
If  subtracted  from  the  universe  or  the 
domain  of  science  we  ask,  has  every- 
thing been  eliminated  from  the  fact 
which  is  not  it  ? 

It  is  in  this  way  that  the  facts  of 
housekeeping  and  household  economics 


are  so  puzzling  and  assertive.  Either 
what  once  was  economy  is  not  so  today, 
or  the  extravagance  of  the  past  is  to- 
day's subterfuge  for  penury.  You  do 
something  at  large  expense  to  find  it 
was  useless,  as  did  the  theater  manager 
who  had  violet-colored  slippers  made 
for  his  chorus  girls,  only  to  discover 
that  the  violet  became  a  dirty  gray 
before  the  footlights. 

The  obstinacy  of  a  fact  lies  in  its 
independence,  its  glory  is  in  its  relation 
to  everything  else.  Facts  are  like 
colors,  each  one  is  laden  with  harmo- 
nious or  contrasting  development,  for 
neither  fact  nor  color  stands  unrelated. 
Unconsciously  or  purposely,  we  are 
manipulating   both    all    the    time,    to 


316 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


arrive  at  results.  So  life  gets  terribly 
serious.  We  don't  enjoy  as  we  go  along. 
We  use  long  words  and  have  inchoate 
enthusiams,  that  we  may  "intelligently 
advise,"  as  we  discuss  "vocational 
environment." 

The  world  has  got  into  such  a  hurry 
with  its  philanthropy  that  this  imcon- 
scious,  curious  manipulation  of  facts 
is  often  in  evidence  in  reports.  Writ- 
ten by  chairman  or  secretary,  yet  the 
third  person  plural,  the  official  "we" 
is  used,  but  with  no  reference  to  those 
who  were  "we."     Then,  if  one  mildly 

asks  whether  or  not  Miss did  not 

have  much  to  do  with  the  work,  one  is 
greeted  with  an  all-embracing  smile,  a 
vague  wave  of  the  hand,  and  the  sub- 
lime reply  that  one  works  for  the  good 
of  the  cause,  the  all-pull-together-Bos- 
ton-19 15  spirit,  and  so  of  course  no 
individual  names  could  be  given  in  the 
collective  "we."  All  the  same,  the 
unsuspecting  pubKc,  if  such  still  exists, 
thinks  the  "we"  is  the  embodiment  of 
the  chairman,  and  that  she  alone  or 
chiefly  has  done  the  work.     So  loyally 

irate,  one  still  persists  that  Miss  

ought  to  have  had  the  credit  for  the 
work  she  did.  The  tone  of  such  a  re- 
port, and  there  are  many  of  them,  not 
only  militates  against  the  truth  of  the 
facts  it  narrates,  but  it  also  weakens 
belief  in  justice  and  courtesy  as  work- 
ing assets  on  committees. 

There  is  no  end  to  the  capacity  of 
a  fact  for  skillful  manipulation  of  it  by 
deed  or  speech.  It  is  more  than  the 
difference  in  which  two  people  see  the 
same  thing.  The  same  fact  may  be 
an  expanding  miracle  or  a  groveling 
necessity.  It  was  said  of  Mrs.  Ripley, 
of  Brook  Farm  fame,  that  when  she 
washed  three  hours  every  ^londay  her 
scholarship,  brightness  and  grace  made 
the  laundry  "a  place  of  almost  seduc- 
tive cheerfulness."  Surely  she  made 
drudgery  a  delight  and  thereby  proved 
the  truth  of  the  Russian  proverb,  that 
"Labor  is  the  house  that  love  lies  in." 

Of    all     queer    pronouncements    of 


facts  that  ought  to  be,  the  "Woman's 
Charter"  of  England  is  conspicuous. 
Wives,  it  says,  must  be  paid  wages  on 
the  scale  of  housekeepers'  wages  in 
their  own  station  of  life.  But  how 
such  payment  is  to  be  enforced  is  as 
mythical  as  another  of  its  would-be 
facts,  that  "local  authority  should  be 
responsible  for  mothers  at  certain 
periods,  whether  it  can  recover  from 
the  husbands  or  not."  Yet  supposing 
that  legislation  ever  made  such  assump- 
tions into  statutes,  is  any  one  suffi- 
ciently optimistic  to  believe  that  either 
payment  of  such  wages  or  such  col- 
lective responsibility  w^ould  become 
customary  facts? 

Such  provisions  for  the  comfort  of 
Englishwomen,  though  ludicrously  pre- 
sumptive of  man's  total  depravity,  are 
not  conclusive  as  facts  concerning  it. 
Nor  can  it  be  assumed  that  all  American 
husbands  are  conceited  enough  to 
think  that  their  happiness  is  due  more 
to  themselves  than  to  their  wives,  be- 
cause one  valiant  man  among  them  is 
on  record  as  having  asserted  that  it 
was  not  so  much  the  affection  his  wife 
gave  him  as  that  he  gave  her  by  which 
he  was  blessed.  The  very  height  of 
self-contentment  reached  by  his  activ- 
ity in  self-expression!  No  wonder  that 
the  Carnegie  Commission  found  only 
three  hundred  and  thirty-six  heroes 
out  of  four  thousand  cases  of  supposed 
vahants. 

Of  course  we  all  grant  that  facts  are 
— facts.  Still  they  are  liable  to  the  in- 
voluntary manipulation  of  our  tempera- 
ments. Love  discovers  beauty  where 
indifference  sees  ugliness.  Yet,  when 
we  ask  for  the  truth,  we  mean  we  want 
the  fact,  which  when  given,  however, 
is  quite  likely  not  to  be  what  we  wanted, 
or  to  be  untrue.  Thus  we  acquire  a 
knack  in  differentiating  what  are  called 
personal  facts,  while  those  of  statistics 
are  subject  to  recount,  and  those  of 
science  remain  until  they  are  supplanted 
by  others  larger. 

If  it  is  futile  to  talk  of  the  immuta- 


A  REPRIEVE 


317 


bility  or  of  the  ^evanescence  of  color, 
still  more  futile  is  it  to  talk  of  the  per- 
manence of  temperament.  All  the 
more  do  we  need  to  understand  the 
phases  or  temporary  facts  of  tempera- 
ment, because  so  much  stress  is  now 
laid  upon  industrial  education  that  we 
are  in  danger  of  forgetting  the  facts  of 
imagination.  Not  more  knowledge  of 
the  formal  things  of  art,  but  the  awak- 
ening of  "  an  art  sense,"  of  study  of  the 
intellectual  phases  of  Hfe,  is  what  will 
make  the  fact  of  one's  self  noble  and 
useful.  Said  dear  old  Mother  Bick  r- 
dyke,  of  the  Civil  War  nurses,  "  I  never 
considered  myself  ornamental  or  worth 
making  a  show  of,  but  I  can  be  useful, 
and  that's  all  I  want."  Yet  the  caHco 
dress  and  simbonnet  she  wore  at  the 
review  of  Sherman's  and  Meade's 
armies,  when  she  declined  the  post  of 
honor  she  there  might  have  held,  were 
afterwards  sold  for  one  hundred  dollars, 
"as'^relics  of  the  war,"   and  she  con- 


sented to  the  sale  as  the  money  there- 
from would  go  for  the  benefit  of  her 
"boys,"  the  Union  soldiers.  Which 
was  the  truest  fact,  her  estimate  of 
herself,  or  the  people's  estimate  of  the 
dress  as  the  outward  semblance  of 
herself? 

As,  after  all,  one  test  of  a  fact  is  our 
perception  of  its  truth,  its  pragmatic 
value,  must  we  see  and  think  clearly 
without  becoming  dilettantes  in  casuis- 
try' through  ethical  questionaires,  al- 
most as  pernicious  for  adults  as  for 
children.  Then  during  our  bewildered 
endeavors  to  ascertain  the  truth  of  a 
fact,  when  our  courtesy  and  the  ap- 
parent fact  of  another  seem  to  conflict, 
it  is  safe  to  remember  that,  if  fact  is 
revelation  of,  at  least,  a  partial  truth, 
courtesy  is  the  observance  of  universal 
tact  and  sympathy,  by  which  we  try  to 
understand  another,  before  we  begin 
on  needless  judgment  concerning  the 
alleged  fact. 


A  Reprieve 

By  Cora  A.  Matson  Dolson 


The  lamp  shines  on  the  snowy  cloth. 
The  dark  floats  outward,  and  the  night 

Sends  in  a  silver  dusted  moth 

Whose  wings  beat  madlv  to  the  light. 


"A  lunch  tomorrow,  Mother  mine, 
Enough  for  both  my  girl  and  me!  " 

O  mother  hands,  your  right  divine, 

That  held  the  small  child  to  vour  knee. 


One  waits,  with  blossoms  in  her  hair, 
And  eyes  that  tender  depths  reveal; 

Her  deft  hands  giving,  here  and  there, 
Last  touches  to  the  evening  meal. 

Only  two  plates,  her  boy's  and  hers. 
The  slender  thread  of  home  life  keep ; 

Far  on  the  hills  the  watching  firs 

Hold  guard  around  Love's  dreamless  sleep. 

A  step  —  she  listens  with  tense  brow  — 

Another,  nearer  —  yes,  'tis  he: 
Her  baby  once,  her  big  boy  now, 

Taller,  bv  half  a  head,  than  she. 


The  blossoms  waver  in  her  hair, 

Yet  calmly  meets  she  those  clear  eyes ; 

She  feels  the  blundering  moth's  despair  — 
' '  A  holiday  ? "    "  Yes ,  a  siirprise ! 

"And  we  are  going,  you  and  I  — 

That  silly  moth  has  scorched  his  wings!  * 

" But  will  your  girl  want  me?"     Oh,  why 
The  little  hope  that  softly  sings. 

"We'll  dance  the  round  of  Pleasure's  whirl, 
There  is  no  girl  yet,  honest,  true! 

Why,  jolly  mother,  not  a  girl 

In  this  whole  world  can  equal  you!  U 


Three  Girls  in  Gotham 

By  Barbara  Erwin 


THERE  were  three  of  them;  one 
was  a  children's  Hbrarian,  one 
a  kindergartner  and  the  other 
was  studying  sculpture  in  the  Art  Stu- 
dents' League.  Of  course  they  lived 
in  New  York;  young  people  who  have 
a  desire  to  be  at  the  center  of  things 
always  move  towards  that  city  of 
extremes.  For,  in  New  York,  one 
finds  the  best  people  and  the  most  de- 
praved, the  wisest  and  the  most  de- 
pressingly  ignorant,  the  richest  and 
the  poorest  rubbing  elbow^s  as  they  do 
in  no  other  city  of  the  country. 

So  these  three,  Jane,  Elsa  and  Mary, 
found  a  nest  together  in  one  of  the 
great  apartment  houses,  on  a  cross 
street,  asphalt-bound  and  haunted  by 
peddlers  and  organ-grinders.  The  nest 
was  limited  as  to  space ;  there  were  two 
rooms,  very  small  rooms,  indeed,  about 
as  large  as  Mr.  Greatrock's  winter 
limousine.  Originally  these  rooms  had 
been  designed  for  a  kitchen  and  a 
maid's  bedroom  in  a  family  apartment. 
Now  the  kitchen  served  as  a  sleeping, 
dressing  and  living  room  for  two  girls, 
while  the  luckiest  lady  slept  on  the 
couch  in  the  infinitesimal  parlor. 

The  kitchen  made  a  most  convenient 
boudoir.  The  pantry  shelves  were 
used  for  books.  Jane  kept  her  best 
hat  in  the  sugar  bin;  while  the  sink, 
covered  with  a  board  and  a  piece  of 
tapestry,  formed  a  most  acceptable 
study  table.  The  couches  made  a 
right  angle  with  the  two  sleepers'  heads 
at  the  apex,  and  a  tall  and  very  slender 
chiffonier  took  up  little  wall  space  and 
served  as  a  dressing  table  for  all  three 
girls. 

The  drawing-room  was  comparatively 
magnificent.  The  couch  proudly  car- 
ried twenty  cushions,  while  a  tea-table, 
covered  with  a  soft  green  skin,  dis- 
played a  set  of  pretty  dishes  which 


Jane  had  picked  up.  at  a  bargain. 
Elsa's  contribution  was  two  really 
exquisite  Japanese  etchings  which  her 
soldier-brother  had  given  her.  On  the 
rather  rickety  desk  stood  photographs 
of  the  three,  each  owned  by  the  other 
one.  A  chair  and  a  settle  placed 
against  wall  and  window  left  about  two 
square  feet  of  space  in  the  middle  of  the 
room. 

Here  a  masculine  caller,  attracted  by 
Mary's  pink  cheeks  and  bright  eyes, 
gained  an  importance  that  he  had 
never  possessed  before.  He  dominated 
everything;  the  room  shrank  around 
him  until  he  seemed  almost  to  sit 
with  one  shoulder  out  of  the  window 
and  his  feet  in  the  tiny  hallway.  Once 
three  such  visitors  came  at  a  time; 
Mary  arranged  them  carefully,  two  on 
the  settle,  one  in  the  only  chair,  while 
the  girls  sat  on  the  couch.  Then  no 
one  dared  move  for  the  rest  of  the  even- 
ing, because  it  would  have  been  im- 
possible to  get  back  into  position  again. 
Afternoon  callers  were  discouraged ;  the 
lady  in  the  apartment  below  used  her 
kitchen  for  perfectly  legitimate  pur- 
poses, and  each  day  at  about  five 
o'clock  the  odors  of  roast  beef,  lamb 
chops,  or  fish,  if  it  was  Friday,  came 
rolling  up  and  in  at  the  open  windows. 

The  three  always  had  their  windows 
open;  they  were  firm  believers  in  fresh 
air  and  went  continually  clad  in 
sweaters,  while  the  household  ther- 
mometer, had  there  been  one,  would 
have  registered  exactly  fifty-nine  de- 
grees Fahrenheit. 

You  must  not  imagine  continuous 
frivolity;  on  the  contrary  these  three 
were  hard-working  girls,  happy  on  fewer 
pennies  than  most  people  of  their  class 
and  education.  They  were  college 
graduates.  They  went  frequently  to 
the  theater,   but  fifty  cents  was  the 


318 


THE  LAST  OF  THE  SNOWICLANS 


319 


usual  price  of  tickets;  a  dollar  seat  for 
the  Grand  Opera  was  wild  extrava- 
gance and  not  often  indulged  in. 
Much  of  their  pleasure  they  took  out 
of  doors;  for  this  they  were  happily 
situated,  living  on  that  height  which  is 
crowned  by  Columbia  University,  Bar- 
nard and  many  affiliated  schools.  On 
one  side,  the  land  dropped  steeply  away 
to  Momingside  Park,  on  the  other,  was 
the  river,  with  its  stately  drive  and 
Grant's  tomb;  just  across  the  river  lay 
woodlands  and  rocky  bits  of  country. 
So  that  one  could  easily  satisfy  diverse 
inclinations.  A  ramble  in  the  country 
on  warm,  sunny  afternoons,  or,  if  the 
sky  lowered  and  the  air  was  sharp,  a 
brisk  walk  along  Riverside  Drive  to 
City  College  for  the  four-o'clock  organ 
recital  —  these  were  two  of  the  favor- 
ite afternoon  recreations.  Often  the 
Fifth  Avenue  bus  carried  three  hilarious 
passengers,  sitting  atop,  warm  clad  and 
clinging  to  hats,  when  the  wind  swept 
off  the  river.  But  they  avoided  the 
downtown  shops  and  mounts  of  temp- 
tation. 

Jane's  particular  temptation  was 
Brentano's.  She  could  not  pass  that 
enticing  place  without  entering,  and  if 
she  went  in  it  was  to  come  out  again 
with  a  flat  pocketbook.  She  always 
gave  her  purchases  away,  because  there 


was  no  space  for  more  books  on  those 
culinary  shelves. 

But  the  librarian  provided  literary 
pabulum  for  the  household;  she  was 
obliged  to  read  a  great  many  of  the  new 
children's  books,  and  it  often  happened 
that  the  midnight  gas  flared  and  flick- 
ered, while  three  sophisticated  people 
sat  absorbed  in  some  charming  child's 
tale.  Elsa  took  the  Times;  she  alone 
read  it  and  passed  out  items  of  news  to 
the  others  at  the  breakfast  table. 

The  meals,  after  New  York  fashion, 
were  served  in  a  basement  room,  which 
one  reached  through  devious  dark  and 
labyrinthine  passages.  They  were  very 
good  meals,  nourishing  and  "homey," 
because  Mrs.  Collen,  the  landlady,  a 
southerner  and  an  excellent  cook,  kept 
strict  oversight  over  her  kitchen.  To 
be  sure,  Hulda,  the  waitress,  fired  the 
dishes  at  the  table,  as  though  she  were 
bombarding  a  fortress,  and  carried 
them  away  piled  five  high.  But  she 
took  a  motherly  interest  in  her  charges 
and  fed  them  to  repletion. 

The  days  were  full  of  work,  which 
made  play-times  all  the  sweeter,  and 
the  winter  passed  all  too  quickly.  It 
left  regrets  behind,  but  also  dear 
memories;  for  one  year  these  girls,  full 
of  the  love  of  life,  were  young,  free  and 
jubilant  together. 


The  Last  of  the  Snowiclans 

By  Charles  Elmer  Jenney 


The  fort  stood  white  in  the  early  light, 

And  the  morning  air  was  so  clear  and  still 

Of  the  battle  smoke  and  the  crash  of  the  fight 

That  we  knew  that  the  siege  must  end  ere  the 

night, 

And  low  fall  the  walls  that  had  crowned  the 

hill. 

Erect  at  his  post,  the  last  of  the  host 

That  the  fortress  so  long  and  bravely  had 

held, 

Stood  the  single  survivor,  as  white  as  a  ghost, 

Who  once  was  the  garrison's  pride  and  boast, 

Sore  woimded  and  faint  but  still  unquelled. 


The  heat  of  the  battle  had  used  him  hard: 
His  strength,    not    courage,    was   melting 
away; 

An  arm  was  gone  and  his  chest  was  scarred; 

Forever  his  friendly  features  marred, 
But  still  he  was  holding  the  foe  at  bay. 

And  so,  tmscared,  till  the  last  he  dared, 
But  the  noonday  sun  beat  down  on  his 
grave, 
And  the  relics  were  few  for  any  who  cared, 
Three  coals  and  a  cob  and  a  broomstick  bared 
Were  all  that  were  left  of  the  Snow-man 
brave. 


The  Very  Latest — An  Easter  Vagary 


By  Kate  Hudson 


HEIGH  ho!"  sighed  the  speck- 
led chickabiddy.  "Easter's 
at  hand,  once  more;  and  now, 
I  suppose,  we'll  have  to  go  to  work 
again  on  eggs  for  the  holidays." 

"We  just  will,''  assented  the  rust- 
brown  hen,  "and  we  ought  to  set  our 
best  foot  forward,  too,  so's  to  send  a 
really  handsome  lot  of  eggs  to  market." 

"Too  bad  you  ladies  furnish  plain 
white  eggs  only,"  meditatively  re- 
marked the  guinea  hen,  "because,  you 
know,  for  Easter,  folks  like  'em  just  as 
gay  and  bright  as  possible." 

"Gay,  bright,"  screamed  the  rust- 
brown,  rustling  her  feathers.  ''My 
goodness,  the  idea !  Who  ever  heard  of 
such  nonsense!  If  you  really  believe 
that,"  turning  to  the  guinea  hen, 
"why  don't  you  fall  to  and  lay  a  couple 
o'  dozen  of  pink  and  sky  blue  ones  for 
them?" 

"I  am  trying  to, "modestly  admitted 
the  guinea  hen;  "and  have  experi- 
mented a  lot,  but  so  far  I've  not  had 
much  success  with  the  solid  colors. 
But  I  have  produced  some  very  pretty 
speckled  ones." 

''  Speckled  J'  sneered  a  light  gray 
pullet,  "they're  all  speckled,  your  eggs; 
but  they're  also  only  about  half  the 
size  of  an  honest,  full- weight  hen's  Qgg.'' 

"Well,  that's  the  way  I  like  them," 
said  the  guinea  hen,  "small  and  delicate 
is  my  motto." 

Above  the  excited  cackling  called 
forth  by  this  injudicious  remark,  the 
oily  voice  of  a  fat  Prima  Buddha 
sounded  soothingly:  "Well,  of  course, 
speckled  is  not  bright  and  gay ;  speckled 
is  not  pink  or  blue  or  purple ;  but  speck- 
led is  a  step  in  the  right  direction,  and 
somehow  folks  do  Hke  their  Easter  eggs 
many-colored.  I'm  sure  I  don't  know 
why,  but  they  certainly  do.  I  wonder 
now  —  don't    you    ladies    think    you 


might  furnish  a  fewjed,  blue  and  green 
eggs  just  for  the  once?  Just  to  tide 
us  over  the  Easter  holidays  ?  Would  it 
be  quite  impossible?" 

''Impossible!'''  angrily  exclaimed  a 
pert  young  Shanghai;  "what  do  you 
mean  by  impossible?  There's  no  such 
word  nowadays.  But  we  find  it  im- 
passible, and  consider  so  doing  unwise 
to  absurdity.  It  would  be  more  than 
idiotic  to  make  a  change  in  our  usual 
egg-laying  methods;  and  do  you  know 
why?  Because  there 'd  never  be  an 
end  to  it,  never.  If,  this  year,  we  lay  a 
choice  lot  of  eggs  in  assorted  shades 
and  colors  for  the  arrogant,  vacillating, 
unaccountable,  fashion-foolish  creatures 
called  man,  they'll  be  sure,  next  Easter, 
to  want  them  striped  or  plaid  or  polka- 
dotted,  and  then  we'd  have  to  begin 
our  trying  and  experimenting  all  over 
again.  Nay,  nay,  Louise,  no  colored 
eggs  this  year  or  any  other  year, 
thank  you!  And  it's  not  because  we 
cannot  do  it  either;  we  could  and  we 
would,  but  we  just  simply  don't  want 
to." 

After  the  rapturous  applause  had 
died  away  the  soft  voice  of  a  big  white 
Brahma  was  heard  courteously  invit- 
ing the  lady  hens  into  the  upper  left- 
hand  comer  of  the  chicken  yard. 
"You'll  find  there,"  she  cluckingly 
explained,  "a  few  new-idea  eggs  of  my 
own  invention,  decorated  expressly  for 
this  year's  Easter  supply  and  an  abso- 
lutely new  departure  in  eggs,  each  one 
bearing  an  inscription.  This  way, 
ladies,  please;  and  mind  your  step!" 

"Inscription!"  demurred  the  rust- 
brown,  hurrying  along  wing-to-wing 
with  her  speckled  crony  in  the  long 
procession  of  hens  and  pullets  headed 
for  the  upper  chicken  yard.  "Mottoes, 
I  suppose,  and  names!  but  how  on 
earth  to  fit  the  right  ones  to  all  the 


320 


THAT  DAGUERREOTYPED  MAID 


121 


many,  many  folk  from  among  their 
thousand  and  one  queer  and  difficult 
appellations." 

"I  have  not  fussed  with  names," 
declared  the  Brahma,  stopping  before 
a  nest  brimful  to  overflowing  with  the 
fruit  of  her  endeavors,  "nor  yet  with 
sentimental,  educational  or  patriotic 
mottoes;  there's  nothing  on  them  but 
what  is  practical  and  to  the  point. 
Listen,  ladies,  while  I  read;"  and 
adjusting  her  spectacles  the  Brahma 
raised  her  voice  and  read  slowly  and 
impressively:  "Fresh  every  hour."  — 
"Laid  between  8  p.m.  and  5  a.m.  for 
the  family  breakfast."  —  "Laid  to 
order    while    you    wait."  —  "Laid    at 


5  A.M.  Three  hours  only  between 
production  and  consumption  —  eaten 
at  8  A.M." — ''Down,  down,  DOWN 
with  Cold  Storage!"  and  so  on  through 
the  entire  nestful. 

"What  a  splendid  idea!  An  inspira- 
tion, a  revolution  in  eggs!  How  could 
you  even  think  of  it?  The  best  ever! 
How  perfectly  dear!"  cried  the  entire 
henhouse  community.  While  little 
Peckums,  the  rust-brown  biddy's  only 
chick  (whom  like  the  poor,  she  con- 
sequently had  always  with  her),  snug- 
gled close  to  his  mammy's  fusty-dusty 
wing  and  whispered,  "My!  but  won't 
folks  make  eyes  when  they  find  eggs 
like  these  upon  their  breakfast  tables! " 


That  Daguerreotyped  Maid 


By  Lalia  Mitchell 


I  found  it  today,  as  I  rummaged  my  way 

Through  a  chest  full  of  treasures  grown  old, 
As  fresh  and  as  sweet  and  as  daintily  neat 

As  when  first  it  was  framed  in  with  gold. 
I  parted  the  hook,  and  the  picture  I  took 

Up  close  to  the  window  to  see, 
For  I  had  been  told  that  that  maiden  of  old 

Looked  wondrously  like  unto  me. 
That  daguerreotyped  maid,  with  her  hair  in 
a  braid, 

Was  wondrously  like  unto  me. 


Her  eyes  are  demure,  and  her  forehead,  I'm 
sure. 
Is  broad  as  a  saint's,  and  as  low. 
Her  wee  rounded  chin  has  a  dimple  tucked  in 

And  her  cheeks  are  like  roses  aglow. 
She's  a  ladylike  air,  and  demurely  doth  wear 

A  kerchief  close  crossed  at  her  throat. 
But  her  lips  have  the  curl  of  a  mischievous 
girl 
And  her  nose  is  tip-tilted,  I  note. 
That    daguerreoy typed  maid,   of  a   bygone 
decade. 
Oh,  her  nose  is  tip-tilted,  I  note. 


And  I'm  sorry  and  glad  for  the  pleasure  I've  had 

In  fishing  it  out  of  the  gloom, 
*Tis  so  long  since  she  smiled,  and  my  sire's  sire  beguiled, 

'Tis  so  long  since  she  slept  in  the  tomb. 
And  I  think  I'd  prefer,  when  I'm  old-style,  like  her. 

Just  to  lie  where  nobody  could  see, 
So  I'll  put  her  away  as  I  found  her  today. 

The  maiden  that  once  looked  like  me. 
That  daguerreotyped  maid,  so  bewitchingly  staid. 

Just  because  she  once  did  look  like  me. 


Miss  Eversham's  Rug 

By  Frances  Campbell  Sparhawk 
PART  TWO 


Y 


"OU  don't  look  one  mite  as  if 
your  mother  was  going  to  be 
arrested  for  debt  today," 
said  Alice  Miller's  little  companion  in 
the  store  when  the  following  morning 
the  two  found  an  opportunity  for  a 
word  together.  Alice  turned  to  her 
with  a  laugh.  "Not  much,  you'd  bet- 
ter believe!"  she  cried.  "Say,  Flo, 
didn't  I  tell  you  that  lady  was  the  real 
thing?  And  what  do  you  think?  She 
and  my  mother  used  to  go  to  school  to- 
gether, and  were  real  chummy!  Oh, 
it's  all  come  out  fine!  That  horrid 
man's  all  paid  up  clear,  and  we'll  never 
go  near  him  again.  Mother  and  I  are 
going  to  see  Miss  Eversham  some  even- 
ing; she  says  she  won't  lose  sight  of 
mother  again.  And  mother  goes  round 
singing  like  a  little  girl." 

EKnor  found  Mr.  Parker  more  de- 
lightful in  conversation  than  he  had 
ever  proved  by  letter.  As  he  talked 
with  her  she  understood  why  he  had 
wanted  to  see  her  elsewhere  than  at  his 
office.  Certain  peculiarities  in  the  book 
she  was  to  illustrate  next,  and  certain 
predilections  of  the  publishing  house 
could  be  more  freely  discussed;  and  as 
he  sat  at  his  ease  in  Miss  Eversham 's 
drawing-room,  toning  his  comments  by 
personal  explanations,  smiling  his  ap- 
proval of  her  incisive  questions,  at  the 
end  of  half  an  hour  she  had  learned 
more  of  what  to  do  and  what  to  avoid 
than  she  would  have  done  in  six  months 
of  ordinary  business  intercourse.  Thus 
far  she  was  more  than  satisfied;  she 
was  happy ;  she  believed  that  her  finan- 
cial future  was  assured  and  that  a 
modest  competence  lay  before  her. 
And  she  told  herself  with  an  inward 
amusement  that  it  had  not  mattered  in 


the  least  about  the  rug;  she  had  dis- 
turbed herself  for  nothing. 

But  she  gave  herself  this  assurance 
too  soon.  For,  all  at  once,  in  the 
midst  of  a  description  of  one  of  his 
writers  for  whose  poems  Miss  Ever- 
sham was  to  try  her  hand  at  illustra- 
tion, Mr.  Parker  paused  and  gazed  si- 
lently and  intentl}^  at  what  lay  beneath 
his  feet  —  the  rug.  After  a  moment, 
however,  he  pulled  himself  back  to  his 
subject,  with  an  effort  it  seemed  to  her, 
and  went  on  talking.  But  his  old  vi-. 
vacity  had  gone;  he  spoke  in  a  desul- 
tory way,  and  even  as  she  was  answer- 
ing him,  his  eyes  again  sought  the  floor, 
not  in  abstraction  here,  but,  as  she  saw 
clearly,  with  attentiveness.  To  Miss 
Eversham' s  sensitive  observation  he 
appeared  to  be  making  a  note  of  the 
thin  places  and  the  parts  of  the  rug 
especially  shabby.  She  was  embar- 
rassed; but  she  threw  herself  into  the 
discussion  of  her  subject  with  still  more 
energ}^  determined  to  forget  what  she 
began  to  feel  was  his  rudeness,  which 
amazed  her. 

With  a  slight  access  of  haughtiness 
covering  her  embarrassment,  which  was 
growing  into  anger  at  conduct  so  inex- 
cusable, she  talked  on. 

But  it  was  he  now  who  followed  her 
lead,  not  she  who  listened  with  an  oc- 
casional word  and  profited  by  his  sug- 
gestions. 

At  last,  in  the  midst  of  a  sentence  he 
broke  off  abruptly,  and  turning  to  her, 
said,  "I've  only  once  in  my  life  seen 
another  rug  like  this  beautiful  one  of 
yours.  Miss  Eversham,  and  that  was  — 
dear  old  rug!  I  wish  it  were  in  exist- 
ence at  this  moment." 

"Neither  did  I  ever  see  more  than 
one  other  exactly  like  it,  Mr.  Parker," 


322 


MISS  EVERSHAM'S  RUG 


323 


she  answered.  "Has  it  memories  for 
you?" 

* '  Memories ! "  he  said ,  *  *  sacred  memo- 
ries, if  I  may  say  so.  It  was  in  the 
house  where  I  found  my  wife;  and  on 
this  old  rug  —  I  mean  the  double  of 
this  —  we  spent  many  happy  hours 
planning  our  future.  You  must  for- 
give my  speaking  of  it;  but  I  believe 
I'm  fond  of  the  dear  old  thing.  I  don't 
mean  that  your  rug  is  old,"  he  hastened 
to  add.     "  But  the  other  was." 

"This  is  very  old,"  she  answered. 
"I  never  remember  the  time  when  I 
did  not  see  it." 

"That  doesn't  make  it  old,"  he  in- 
terposed with  a  smile. 

"It  was  in  my  father's  house  in 
Applet  on,"  she  went  on.  "And  the 
other  rug  was  — " 

"In  Appleton!"  he  cried.  "Did 
you  ever  Hve  in  Appleton?  Why, 
that's  where  I  found  my  wife.  You 
said  you  had  seen  one  other  rug,"  he 
added,  taking  up  her  words. 

"Yes;  in  Mr.  Wentworth's  house." 

"x\nd  Rachel  Wentworth  is  my  wife. 
You  knew  her?" 

"We  were  schoolmates,"  answered 
Elinor.  But  she  spoke  somewhat  dis- 
tantly. For  why  had  not  Mrs.  Parker 
acknowledged  the  acquaintance?  Her 
change  of  name  had  hidden  her;  but 
Elinor  Evershams  were  not  so  common 
as  to  have  provoked  no  question. 

Perhaps  Mr.  Parker  read  her  thought, 
for  he  said,  "  I  don't  believe  that  Rachel 
has  heard  your  name  at  all  in  connec- 
tion with  our  house ;  we  so  seldom  talk 
shop  at  home.  And  she  has  not  seen 
your  last  work;  I've  been  meaning  to 
take  the  sketches  to  her.  She'll  be 
only  too  glad  to  find  you  again." 

This  spirit  of  friendliness  was  in  ac- 
cord with  Elinor's  memories  of  Rachel 
Wentworth,  and  she  responded  with  a 
new  cordiality.  She  had  been  lonely 
for  years  when  work  and  poverty  had 
shut  certain  doors  against  her  and  had 
made  her  refuse  to  enter  others  which 
had  opened.     Now,  to  find  two  school- 


mates in  one  week !  And  in  positions  so 
different !  It  came  into  her  thought  that , 
if  she  had  not  found  the  first,  she  might 
never  have  learned  of  the  second;  the 
identifying  rug  would  have  been  gone. 

Now,  as  with  a  new  freedom  she 
talked  to  ]\Ir.  Parker,  a  suggestion  came 
to  her.  She  spoke  it  suddenly,  or  she 
might  not  have  had  the  temerity  to 
utter  it  at  all. 

"  I  want  you  to  do  me  a  great  favor, 
Mr.  Parker,"  she  began. 

"Nobody  would  be  more  happy, 
Miss  Eversham." 

"This  rug  is  so  worn  I'm  ashamed  to 
suggest  it,"  she  went  on.  "But  if  it 
would  give  you  the  least  pleasure  to 
throw  it  into  some  closet  of  yours 
where  you  can  take  a  peep  at  it  once 
in  a  while,  I  should  be  so  glad  to  send 
it  to  you.  I  was  going  to  get  a  new 
one  directly,"  she  added  in  haste,  for 
the  orders  she  had  that  morning  re- 
ceived from  him  warranted  it.  "And 
then  I  shall  not  know  what  to  do  with 
this  one.  If  you  really  care  to  look  at 
it  sometimes,  do  put  it  into  your  garret. 
I  don't  want  it  at  all;  I  should  be 
obliged  to  you  if  you  would  do  it." 

"Do  you  really  mean  it?"  he  cried. 
* '  I  should  be  delighted  to  put  it  into 
my  den,  that  is,  if  you  will  let  me  ex- 
change one  of  my  rugs  for  it." 

Elinor  crimsoned.  "Oh,  no,  indeed, 
Mr.  Parker!  Such  a  thought  never 
entered  my  mind.  It's  not  worth 
anything  except  as  a  relic  —  to  you 
who  like  it." 

He  laughed.  "I  understood  you 
perfectly,"  he  said.  But  he  would  ac- 
cept it  only  as  an  exchange,  and  assured 
Elinor  that  he  should  be  still  greatly  in 
her  debt,  that  the  rug  was  more  valu- 
able than  she  thought  and  he  ought  not 
to  take  it  at  all.  But  he  did  want  it, 
on  those  terms.  And  did  she  forget 
how  delighted  with  it  Rachel  would  be  ? 

So  she  yielded,  and  the  following  day 
the  rug,  its  worn  places  strengthened  by 
her  skillful  needle,  was  wrapped  and 
sent  to  Mr.  Parker. 


324 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


The  same  afternoon  Mrs.  Parker 
came.  She  was  full  of  the  cordial  in- 
terest of  the  Rachel  Wentworth  of 
school  days.  The  visit  was  a  delight 
to  both.  Elinor  learned  that  Mr. 
Parker's  enthusiasm  over  the  rug  had 
not  been  simulated,  and  that  it  was 
already  on  the  floor  of  his  den. 

"You  must  come  and  dine  with  us 
next  week,  Elinor,"  said  the  visitor,  as 
at  last  she  rose  to  go. 

"And  you  must  come  and  dine  with 
me  very  soon,"  returned  Miss  Ever- 
sham.  "I  have  very  simple  doings, 
Rachel.  But  you'll  not  care?  It  will 
remind  you  of  the  times  when  we  used 
to  take  a  little  salt  in  a  paper  and  run 
down  into  the  garden  and  pick  toma- 
toes off  the  vines  and  eat  them.  I 
did  it  because  you  did;  I  should  never 
have  invented  anything  so  good.  So, 
you  see,  I  know  by  experience  that  5^ou 
don't  object  to  simplicity." 

"I  think  it  was  odd  I  never  heard 
your  name,"  said  Mrs.  Parker,  when 
she  had  readily  accepted  the  proposed 
invitation.  "Nat  kept  talking  about 
the  new  illustrator  who  promised  so 
finely — " 

"Oh,  did  he?"  cried  her  listener  with 
shining  eyes. 

"Indeed,  he  did  a  number  of  times, 
which  was  unusual  in  him,  for  he  never 
speaks  of  business  at  home,  unless  he's 
so  pleased  he  can't  keep  it  to  himself. 
He  never  tells  me  the  worries." 

"What  a  model  husband!"  laughed 
Elinor. 

"Indeed,  he  is!  I  wish  you  had  one 
just  as  good." 

"Thank  you,  my  dear.  I'm  very 
glad  and  quite  content  to  have  you  and 
my  work." 

The  light  of  a  sudden  thought  crossed 
the  other's  face,  but  she  did  not  utter 
it.  She  nodded  and  smiled  and  went 
away,  promising  to  remember  Mrs. 
Miller's  case,  and  see  if  anything  could 
be  turned  up  for  her.  For  Miss  Ever- 
sham  had  not  forgotten  to  impress 
the    sadness   of    the    fate    which    had 


fallen  upon  the  once  gay  and  happy 
ICitty  Hunter,  whom  they  both  re- 
membered well;  she  had  not  only  been 
in  the  same  school,  but  in  the  same 
class  with  themselves.  "Indeed,  I've 
an  idea  working  in  my  mind  *now," 
Mrs.  Parker  confided.  "  But  I  shall  say 
nothing  more  about  it  to  you  until  I 
find  out  whether  it  is  worth  anything. 
If  it  is,  it's  fine,  and  you'll  hear  from 
me.  If  not  —  well,  we  must  try  some- 
thing else.     We'll  not  give  her  up." 

Three  days  later  Miss  Eversham, 
to  her  great  amazement,  received  a 
visit  from  Mr.  Kent,  the  author  whose 
book  she  had  just  illustrated. 

He  had  come  to  tell  her  that  he 
liked  her  illustrations.  How^  kind  in 
him !  If  only  he  liked  them  one-half  as 
well  as  she  liked  his  book!  "Intro- 
duced by  Mrs.  Parker,"  was  written  on 
his  card.  It  was  good  in  Rachel  to 
care  about  his  doing  this. 

But  Mr.  Kent  had  not  come  about  the 
illustrations  at  all;  in  fact,  he  had  for 
the  moment  forgotten  that  he  was  an 
author.  He  wanted  a  housekeeper, 
and  he  said  that  he  was  a  difficult  per- 
son to  suit ;  the  housekeeper  must  have 
the  manners  of  a  lady,  to  have  an  au- 
thority over  the  servants;  good  judg- 
ment and  executive  ability,  to  see  that 
there  was  no  unnecessary  waste  —  he 
supposed  that  there  always  would  be  a 
certain  amount  in  a  bachelor's  estab- 
lishment. She  must  sit  at  the  head  of 
his  table  when  he  had  no  guests;  and 
when  he  had,  must  be  able  to  order 
meals  in  proper  style  and  to  efface  her- 
self. He  was  interested  in  Mrs.  Miller, 
of  whom  Mrs.  Parker  had  told  him. 
Did  Miss  Eversham  think  that  lady 
would  do;  and,  if  so,  would  like  the 
place?  And  he  stated  his  offer  as 
to  terms  and  privileges.  These  were 
liberal  enough  to  make  his  hearer  ready 
to  promise  anything  for  her  old  school- 
mate. She  mentioned  reluctantly  that 
Mrs.  Miller  had  a  daughter.  Would 
she  prove  an  obstacle? 


THE  PATH 


325 


But  Mr.  Kent  readily  settled  that 
matter.  "And  you'll  see  Mrs.  Miller? " 
he  asked.  "  How  very  kind  in  you, 
Miss  Ever  sham.  And  if  she  should 
like  the  idea,  let  her  come  and  talk 
things  over  with  me  at  once,  please. 
She  ought  to  see  the  house  before  de- 
ciding.    Don't  you  think  so  ? " 

Elinor  did  not  think  so  at  all  in  the 
face  of  such  advantages ;  but  she  was 
careful  not  to  say  it. 

Then,  when  this  matter  had  been 
settled  so  far  as  she  could  do  it,  Mr. 
Kent  suddenly  looked  at  her  with  some- 
thing quite  different  in  his  mind;  he 
had  evidently  remembered,  at  last,  that 
there  was  another  subject  of  interest 
between  them. 

"If  everybody  who  goes  through  the 
task  of  reading  my  new  book  brings  to 
it  your  ideal  comprehension  of  the 
beauties  I  meant  to  put  there  and  had 
not  the  ability  to  utter,  Miss  Eversham, 
I  shall  be  about  the  most  popular 
writer  in  the  world,"  he  said  abruptly. 
"  So  many  have  bungled  at  illustrations. 


and  I've  had  to  be  patient  and  take  the 
best  I  could  get  and  say  '  thank  you '  for 
that.  But  you  —  why,  you  make  me 
wish  I'd  written  up  to  what  you  saw. 
I'll  try  hard  to  do  it  next  time  —  if 
you're  going  to  be  willing  to  try  me 
again  some  day,"  he  said  smiling. 
"Your  work  is  remarkable;  I  know  it 
will  do  much  for  the  book.  I  think  I 
shall  have  to  go  abroad  again,  to  leave 
you  a  free  hand  next  time,  also." 

He  was  a  man  well  on  in  his  forties. 
As  he  rose  to  go  and  she  stood  looking 
up  at  him  and  digesting  his  sweet 
morsel  of  praise,  she  might  be  pardoned 
for  thinking  him  very  fine  looking; 
others,  without  the  influence  of  the 
personal  gratitude  she  was  experiencing 
at  the  moment,  were  of  the  same  mind. 
But  had  he  been  plain  of  face,  the 
charm  of  his  voice  and  simplicity  of 
manner,  possible  only  to  training,  would 
have  made  itself  felt. 

"I  shall  see  Mrs.  Miller  today,"  she 
assured  him  as  he  left  her. 
{To  he  continued) 


The  Path 

By  Helen  Coale  Crew 


The  road  must  hurry  on,  must  cover  space. 
And  hasten,  straight  and  stiff,  from  place  to 

place. 
But  the  little  pathway  wanders  and  winds 
'Neath  tangled  grasses  and  trailing  vines; 
Over  the  brook  on  a  mossy  plank. 
Slipping  and  sliding  upon  the  bank, 
Breathlessly  climbing  the  wooded  hill. 

Here  and  there, 

Everywhere, 
Just  at  its  own  sweet  will. 


The  road  lies  naked  to  the  sunshine  bright, 
And  bared  to  starry  heavens  in  the  night. 
But  the  little  path  hides,  all  modestly, 
Till  there's  only  a  slender  thread  to  see. 
It  hides  from  the  sun  in  shadows  cool 
By  the  wooded  ledge  of  a  placid  pool; 
And  it  smells  of  the  clover-blossoms  sweet 

As  it  sHps  and  glides. 

And  coyly  hides 
Where  the  willows  bend  and  meet. 


The  great  road  has  a  duty  to  be  done  — 
It  needs  must  reach  the  town  ere  setting  sun. 
But  the  little  path,  like  a  child  at  play. 
Loiters  at  will  through  the  sunny  day; 
Over  the  pasture,  under  the  stile, 
Through  many  a  fragrant  and  blossomy  mile, 
Till,  rounding  the  lake  by  its  sedgy  brim, 

It  will  dip  and  fall 

'Neath  the  pine  trees  tall 
Into  the  forest  dim. 


326 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


THE 

BOSTON     COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary  Science   and    Domestic   Economics 
Janet  McKenzie  Hill,  Editor 

PUBLISHED   TEN   TIMES   A   YEAR 

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SOMEWHAT    PERSONAL 

WE  want  your  name  on  our  list 
of  subscribers.  You  can  help 
us,  and  we  certainly  will  try 
to  help  you.  At  present,  we  surmise, 
you  are  not  giving  overmuch  time  and. 
attention  to  the  study  of  sanitary, 
wholesome  living.  Do  you  fully  realize 
how  much  of  your  health  and  happiness 
depends  upon  intelligent,  good  house- 
keeping? Also  the  health  and  well- 
being  of  your  children,  as  well  as^your 
own,  are  vitally  concerned  in  the  ob- 
servance of  the  natural  laws  of  health, 
which  include  a  knowledge  of  proper 
feeding. 

The  relation  of  drugs  and  food  to 
health  is  regarded  quite  otherwise 
today  than  was  the  case  in  former 
days.     Experience  has  taught  us  that 


health  is  the  main  thing  needful  in 
life,  and  that  sound  health  and  judicious 
feeding  are  inseparable  as  cause  and 
effect.  The  saying  is  now  common- 
place, that  comforts  are  multiplied 
and  the  average  period  of  life  is  pro- 
longed as  scientific  knowledge  is  in- 
creased and  spread  abroad.  Does  it 
not  behoove  us,  then,  to  be  alert  and 
ambitious,  in  order  to  keep  in  touch 
with  the    advancement    of    the    age? 

"They  must  upward  still,  and  onward. 
Who  would  keep  abreast  of  truth." 

OUR  DAILY  BREAD 

THOUGH  high  professional  talent 
is  always  in  demand,  the  great 
call  today  is  for  commercial  or 
industrial  skill.  The  question  most 
young  men  and  women  have  to  face, 
sooner  or  later,  is  what  can  you  do? 
What  are  you  fitted  to  build,  manage 
or  direct,  as  the  result  of  your  educa- 
tion and  training?  Of  the  making  of 
many  books  there  is  no  end;  talk  is 
cheap. 

Pragmatism,  that  is,  of  what  practical 
good,  is  the  modem  test  of  the  worth 
of  all  speculation  and  endeavor. 

Some  useful,  remunerative  occupa- 
tion, then,  is  the  imperative  need  of 
every  individual  —  the  thing  of  first 
importance  to  be  desired  on  earth. 
Even  in  the  calling  of  the  housekeeper, 
skill  and  training  must  be  attained 
somehow,  in  order  that  one's  labor  be 
efficient  or  in  any  wise  satisfactory. 
The  times  are  calling  louder  than  ever 
before  for  special  preparation  and  train- 
ing in  the  one  thing  each  man  or  woman 
is  to  do.  We  must  prepare  to  do  well, 
and  with  might,  whatsoever  our  hands 
find  to  do,  in  order  that  we  may  earn 
even  our  daily  bread. 

THE    CURE  FOR  MORBID  GIRLS 

THE    average    girl   in   her   teens, 
from  one   cause  or  another,   is 
given  to  melancholy  spells,  while 
not  a  few  are  habitually  morbid. 

The  cause  is  not  far  to  seek.    From 


EDITORIALS 


327 


girlish  carelessness  of  everything  but 
fun,  she  has  suddenly  awakened  to  a 
strong  sense  of  care  for  things.  Be- 
sides, her  ideals  have  taken  an  upward 
flight,  and  ambition  runs  riot.  She 
wants  to  be  something  she  is  not,  and 
she  does  not  so  much  as  know  how  to 
make  a  start.  She  longs  for  money, 
beauty,  position  in  society,  opportunity 
to  go  and  see  and  be;  for  accomplish- 
ments that  dazzle,  and  friendships  that 
flatter.  Indeed,  she  is  like  a  bird  that 
has  suddenly  discovered  its  wings,  but 
finds  them  too  weak  for  use. 

For  along  with  the  beautiful  day- 
dream comes  the  realization  of  its  im- 
possibility under  present  conditions, 
and  the  young  girl  grows  proportion- 
ately despondent.     Who  blames  her? 

Sometimes,  because  she  has  these 
high  ambitions,  she  begins  to  consider 
herself  superior  to  her  surroundings; 
to  feel  herself  ill-used  by  fate  and 
misunderstood  and  unappreciated  by 
those  who  love  her.  She  even  takes  a 
pride  in  her  blues  —  it  seems  so  in- 
tellectual ! 

Yet  the  state  on  the  whole  is  praise- 
worthy in  that  it  indicates  a  cer- 
tain self -dissatisfaction,  and  an  honest 
desire  to  better  herself  and  her  con- 
dition. But  the  trouble  with  her  is, 
too  often,  she  simply  bemoans  her 
condition  without  so  much  as  weaving 
a  plan  or  lifting  a  hand  to  better  it. 
Help,  to  such,  must  come  from  the 
outside. 

In  many  cases  the  melancholy  state 
is  fostered  by  overmuch  reading  of  an 
unhealthy  kind;  in  all  cases  there  is 
too  much  introspection.  The  girl  is 
supremely  egoistic  without  realizing 
it.  She  is  frankly  the  center  of  the 
universe,  feeling  that  every  one  is  notic- 
ing her,  her  clothes,  and  her  manners. 
She  thinks  that  her  awkward  acts  and 
words  are  remembered  and  repeated, 
that  she  is  being  ridiculed  behind  her 
back.  She  cries  herself  to  sleep  because 
her  nose  is  ugly,  or  she  has  said 
something  that  caused  a  passing  smile 


on  her  rival's  face.  All  this  because 
she  has  become  self-conscious  and  su- 
perlatively sensitive  to  her  failings 
and  her  lack  of  belongings  and  attrac- 
tions. She  is  suffering  from  the  kind 
of  vanity  that  brings  misery,  not 
pleasurable  sensations.  Hence  she  de- 
serves not  censure,  but  genuine  sym- 
pathy. 

In  other  cases  the  melancholy  rises 
from  the  sheer  loneliness  of  her  life. 
A  girl  on  the  farm,  for  instance,  is 
often  isolated  from  companions  of  her 
own  age,  living,  year  after  year,  with 
people  much  older  or  much  younger 
than  herself.  Her  consequent  morbid- 
ness is  a  cry  for  friendship,  a  cry  as 
justifiable  as  it  is  natural. 

Or  the  isolation  may  come  from  her 
being  educated  above  her  surroundings 
and  companionships.  I  once  knew  a 
minister's  daughters  who,  after  receiv- 
ing college  education,  were  obliged, 
by  reason  of  their  father's  missionary 
zeal,  to  return  to  a  place  where  they 
had  no  advantages,  where  companions 
were  most  illiterate  and  wholly  un- 
congenial. "We  will  all  four  be  old 
maids,"  one  of  them  said  laughingly, 
"unless  we  catch  father's  spirit  suffi- 
ciently to  make  us  love  these  crop- 
talking  farmers."  Verily,  the  uncon- 
genial, lonely  lives  some  girls  are  forced 
to  live  would  take  the  smile  from 
Sunny  Jim! 

Others,  undoubtedly,  are  suffering 
from  an  overdose  of  mechanical  work  — 
work  that  demands  little  skill,  that 
taxes  the  physical,  not  the  mental 
strength,  admits  of  no  ambitions,  and 
stretches  into  the  future  unlimitedly. 
The  girl  who  stands  bravely  and  un- 
complainingly at  a  task  of  this  kind 
is  a  heroine.  She  is  entitled  to  her 
fits  of  the  blues. 

But  whatever  the  cause  of  the  melan- 
choly —  be  it  justifiable  or  otherwise  — 
there  is  one  sure  cure  for  it, — a  new  and 
absorbing  interest. 

To  decide  what  this  shall  be  and  to 
bring  it  about  is  the  duty,  the   task, 


328 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


the  infinite  privilege  of  those  nearest 
her. 

In  some  cases  a  year  in  college  is 
the  medicine  needed,  or,  perhaps,  a 
course  of  special  lessons  in  something 
she  shows  a  fondness  for,  be  it  music,  art, 
domestic  science,  dressmaking,  milli- 
nery, or  even  embroidery  lessons.  Or 
a  visit  to  relatives,  near  or  far,  may 
bring  about  a  happier  habit  of  mind. 

If  none  of  these  is  possible,  some  new 
interest  ma}"  be  developed  in  the  home. 
Learning  to  make  all  kinds  of  cake 
helped  one  girl  to  pass  an  extremely 
dull  summer.  Another  became  really 
absorbed  in  her  pigeons,  and  the  work 
was  such  a  financial  success  that  she 
not  only  supported  herself,  but  had  the 
deHght  of  putting  many  sorely  needed 
comforts  into  the  home. 

"I  despise  cooking,"  she  said,  "so 
I  bought  mother  a  fireless  cooker  to  take 
my  place  in  the  kitchen  while  I  play 
with  my  birds." 

For  health's  sake  an  outdoor  employ- 
ment is  best,  but  a  definite  interest  of 
some  kind  she  must  have  to  take  her 
mind  from  self,  to  fill  time  and  hands, 
to  make  her  feel  that  she  is  of  some  use 
in  the  world.  A  club  of  congenial 
spirits  is  excellent,  especially  such  a 
society  at  that  of  the  "King's  Daugh- 
ters." 

For  this  is  the  age  when  nature  first 
cries  out  to  be  of  service  to  somebody, 
to  be  needed  somewhere  in  somebody's 
life.  Her  ability  as  a  leader,  manager 
and  organizer  will  reveal  itself  quickly, 
if  it  be  given  an  oppo^tunit3^ 

The  desire  to  do  good,  to  help  in 
church  and  charity  is  thrillingly  keen 
at  this  period  in  the  life  of  the  normal 
girl,  though  she  may  not  give  expres- 
sion to  the  desire  or  scarcely  own  it  to 
herself;  and  parents  and  teachers  can 
not  do  more  for  her  personally  or  more 
for  the  world,  at  large,  than  to  tactfully 
open  the  way  for  her  —  to  urge  her 
into  work  along  these  hnes,  creating 
an  interest  that  will  deepen  and 
strengthen  with  the  years,  a  blessing  to 


her  because  through  it  she  becomes  a 
blessing  to  others. 

Thus,  as  hfe's  reahties,  happy  and 
harsh,  are  pressed  home  to  her,  the 
morbid  girl  wakens  to  do  things,  and 
in  the  doing  her  blue  glasses  are  shat- 
tered and  fall  awa}' .  Few  women  are 
given  to  deep  melancholy  (-unless  in 
poor  health  or  too  rich  to  be  active), 
for  the  simple  reason  that  they  are 
too  busy  to  he  blue. 

However,  mothers  must  be  careful 
not  to  outgrow  s>Tnpathy  for  their 
dreamy,  dispirited  daughters.  It  is 
a  state  of  mind  not  to  be  talked  out  oj 
nor  condoled  with  nor  openly  sjm- 
pathized  with,  much  less  ridiculed. 
It  is  a  real  miser}'-  (be  its  cause  real 
or  not)  that  must  be  cheered  away  by 
new  ideas,  or  new  scenes,  or  new  love. 
Help  the  despondent  girl  to  look  out 
and  forward  and  up,  and  the  troubled 
heart  will  gladly  respond. 

Lee  McCrae. 


To  a  Pupil  in  Art 

What  is  Beauty?    What  is  Art? 
Tell  us,  Nature,  from  thy  heart! 
"Ah,  my  child,  glance  roomd  and  see 
Open  eye  and  bended  knee! 

' '  Ever>nvhere  through  endless  space 
One  eternal  Plan  I  trace  — 
Ever  one  supreme  Desire 
To  Unfold  and  to  Aspire! 

'"God  within  and  God  around! 
Dost  thou  feel  His  Soul  profound 
Breathing  on,  from  age  to  age. 
Opening  Nature  page  by  page? 

"  Evermore  succeeding  years 
Each  its  perfect  message  bears! 
Ever\'  stage,  through  every  part. 
Glowing  bright  with  beauteous  Art! 

"  'Beauty'  is  —  the  perfect  Plan! 
'Art'  is  —  that  revealed  to  man! 
'Beauty'  is  —  God's  hidden  Grace! 
'Art'  —  the  features  of  His  Face! 


"These  we  love,  and  these  we  seek. 
With  a  conscience  brave  yet  meek! 
Till  they  glow  like  noonday  sun  — 
Heaven  on  Earth  is  thus  begun.'" 

—  JOHN  Ward  Stimson. 


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B:x3:n  and  Salted  Xu 
Holiday  Tables 


r    LASES 


R    irZBRUARV 


•easona 


ble  R 


ecipes 


Bv  Janet  M.  Hill 

TX  all  recipes  where  flour  is  used,  unless  othen^ise  stated,  the  flour  is  measured  after  sifting 

once.   Where  flour  is  measured  by  cups,  the  cup  is  filled  with  a  spoon,  and  a  level  cupful 

is  meant.    A  tablespoonful  or  a  teaspoonful  of  any  designated  material  is  a  level  spoonful 

of  such  material. 


Truffled  Eggs  a  la  Muscovite 

HAVE  as  many  rounds  of  toast, 
two  inches  and  one-half  in 
diameter,  as  there  are  persons 
to  ser\'e.  Spread  the  toast,  while  hot. 
with  butter.  When  cold  spread  with 
caviare  mixed  with  a  few  drops  of 
lemon  jtiice.  The  smallest  sized  can 
of  ca\^are  and  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice  will  be  enough  for  eight  rounds. 
For  each  ser\'ice  have  ready  a  small, 
cold,  hard-cooked  q%%,  from  which  the 
shell  has  been  removed.  Cut  a  sUce 
from  the  rounding  end  of  each  q%%, 
that  it  may  stand  level.  To  three- 
fourths  a  cup  of  mayonnaise  dressing 
beat  in  one-fourth  a  cup  of  consomme, 
in  which  a  scant  tablespoonftil  of  gela- 
tine has  been  softened  and  dissolved. 
When  added  to  the  dressing  the  gela- 
tine mixture  must  be  hquid  but  not 
hot.  RoU  the  eggs  in  the  mixture  to 
coat  completely,  then  set  one  on  each 


round ;  or  set  the  eggs  in  place  and  with 
a  silver  knife  spread  the  dressing  over 
them :  sprinkle  with  chopped  truffles,  or 
garnish  with  four  or  more  figures  cut 
from  sHces  of  truffles,  or  leave  plain. 
Chill  thoroughly  before  ser\-ing  as  an 
appetizer  at  luncheon  or  dinner.  Three- 
fourths  a  cup  of  white  sauce,  made 
of  rich  chicken  broth  (or  half  cream), 
may  replace  the  mayonnaise. 

G^ape-F^uit-anei-^^  hite  Grape 

Cocktail 
Remove  the  sections  of  pulp  from 
grape-fruit,  cut  in  halves,  keeping  the 
pieces  as  whole  as  possible.  Remove 
the  skin  from  white  grapes,  cut  each 
grape  in  halves,  crosswise,  and  take  out 
the  seeds.  Set  the  pulp,  juice  and 
prepared  grapes  aside  in  a  cool  place  to 
become  thoroughly  chilled.  When  ready 
to  ser\-e  dispose  in  tall-stemmed  glasses, 
sprinkle  lightly  with  confectioners' 
sugar,  a  teaspoonful  to  each  glass,  and 


329 


330 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


add   a  teaspoonful   of  sherry  to   each 
glass.     The  sherry  may  be  omitted. 

Grape-Fruit  with  White  Grapes 

Remove  the  skin  and  seeds  from  the 
grapes  as  above.  Cut  chilled  grape- 
fruit in  halves,  crosswise.  With  a  thin 
sharp-pointed  knife  cut  around  the 
pulp  in  each  section  of  the  fruit,  also 
cut  the  membrane  separating  the 
sections  and  the  core  from  the  skin, 
and  remove  the  membrane  and  core 
together.  Fill  the  open  space  in  the 
center  with  six  or  eight  (or  more)  of 
the  prepared  grapes,  sprinkle  over  a 
teaspoonful  of  confectioners'  sugar  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  sherry.  Serve  at  once 
as  an  appetizer  or  preliminary  course 
at  breakfast,  luncheon  or  dinner. 


buttered.  Set  on  many  folds  of  paper 
in  a  baking  pan.  Surround  with 
water  at  the  boiling  point,  and  let  cook 
in  the  oven  till  firm  in  the  center. 
Remove  from  the  water.  Let  stand 
three  or  four  minutes,  that  the  prepara- 
tion may  shrink  from  the  mold  a  little ; 
unmold  on  hot  dish.  Fill  the  center  or 
surround,  as  required,  with  peas  seasoned 
with  salt,  black  pepper,  butter  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  sugar.  Serve  Hollandaise 
or  fish  Bechamel  sauce  in  a  sauce  boat. 

Fish   Bechamel  Sauce 

Melt  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter; 
in  it  cook  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
and  a  scant  half  teaspoonful,  each,  of 
salt  and  paprika;  add  three-fourths  a 
cup,  each,  of  fish  broth  (made  of  the 


Truffled  Eggs  a  la  Muscovite 


HaHbut  Timbale  v^ith  Peas 

Chop  fine  one  pound  of  halibut 
weighed  after  being  freed  of  skin  and 
bones.  Beat  the  yolk  of  an  egg; 
add  one  teaspoonful  and  a  fourth  of 
salt,  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  white 
pepper  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pa- 
prika. Mix  a  teaspoonful  of  cornstarch 
with  a  little  milk,  then  add  milk  to 
make  three-fourths  a  cup  in  all,  and 
gradually  stir  into  the  yolk  and  season- 
ings, then  stir  the  whole  through  the 
fish.  Lastly,  fold  in  thoroughly  one- 
third  a  cup  of  heavy  cream,  beaten 
firm.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  border 
or   a    Charlotte-Russe   mold,  carefully 


fish  trimmings,  slice  of  onion,  carrot 
and  branch  of  parsley)  and  thin  cream, 
and  stir  until  boiling. 

Hollandaise  Sauce 

Beat  half  a  cup  of  butter  to  a  cream; 
beat  in,  one  at  a  time,  two  yolks  of 
eggs  and  add  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful, 
each,  of  salt  and  paprika,  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  vinegar  and  onetablespoon- 
ful  of  boiling  water  and  stir  and  cook 
over  hot,  but  not  boiling,  water  until 
the  mixture  thickens  slightly. 

Galantine  of  Veal 

Have  the  bones  removed  from  a  loin 
of  veal ;  trim  the  meat  to  a  rectangular 


SEASONABLE   RECIPES 


331 


Halibut  Timbale  (^or  Border)  with  Peas 


shape,  cutting  off  the  flank  at  the  end 
of  the  rib  bones,  or  at  such  place  as 
will  insure,  when  sewed  into  a  cylinder 
shape,  a  suitable  diameter  for  slicing. 
Remove  all  skin  and  unedible  portions, 
Remove  the  fillet  and  slice  oft"  halt, 
at  least,  of  the  flesh  on  the  best  end  of 
the  meat;  set  this,  lengthwise,  near  the 
opposite  end.  Chop  fine  one  pound, 
each,  of  lean  veal  and  fat  and  lean 
fresh  pork,  freed  of  all  unedible  portions, 
then  pound  these  with  a  pestle  to  a 
smooth  paste,  seasoning,  meanwhile, 
with  half  a  teaspoonful.  each,  of  salt 
and  paprika.  Prepare  one  cup  of 
cooked  ox-tongue,  cut  into  cubes  three- 
fourths  of  an  inch  thick,  and  half  as 
many  cubes  of  larding  pork.  Also 
cut  one  or  two  large  truffles  into  thin 
slices.  Spread  the  meat  on  a  board. 
and  rub  the  inside  with  salt  and  pepper. 
See  that  the  tenderloin  and  other 
strips  of  lean  meat  are  in  place;  be- 


tween the  strips  of  lean  meat  press  a 
layer  of  the  forcemeat,  upon  this  set 
a  row  of  tongue  cubes,  salt -pork  cubes, 
and  truffle  slices  and  cover  with  force- 
meat ;  make  another  layer  of  the  cubes, 
another  layer  of  forcemeat,  then  en- 
close with  the  ends  of  the  meat  and 
sew  the  entire  length;  sew  a  slice  of 
fat  salt  pork  over  each  end;  fasten  a 
strip  of  cloth  around  the  meat  length- 
wise, then  tie  twice  with  tape  as  shown 
in  the  illustration.  Cook  the  trim- 
mings of  pork  in  a  frying  pan;  turn 
the  fat  into  a  casserole  or  an  agate  dish 
that  can  be  close-covered,  sprinkle 
in  a  cup  of  sliced  onion,  half  a  cup  of 
sliced  carrot,  several  sprigs  of  parsley 
and  one  or  two  stalks  of  celery  sliced 
thin,  let  cook  until  browned;  on  these 
set  the  galantine,  cover  close  and  let 
cook  in  the  oven  at  a  very  moderate 
heat  about  three  hours.  Have  ready 
hot  butter,  bacon  or  pork  fat  and  use 


Galantine 


Ready  for  Cooking 


332 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


in  basting  the  meat  every  fifteen 
minutes.  When  done,  remove  the 
cloth,  make  smooth  and  again  tie  as 
before;  set  it  into  an  earthen  dish  with 


Galantine  of  Veal,  Finished 


a  board  and  weight  above  it.  The 
next  day  remove  cloth,  stitches,  etc., 
wipe  off  all  fat  and  remove  any  un- 
edible  potion  that  is  seen.  Cover  with 
chaudfroid  sauce,  decorate  with  figures, 
cut  from  slices  of  truffle,  and  cover  with 
liquid  aspic.  To  serve,  cut  in  thin 
slices,  and  surround  with  chopped  aspic. 
Serve  at  a  buffet  luncheon  or  supper, 
either  with  aspic  or  a  green  vegetable 
salad  or  both.  Half  a  cup  of  sherry 
or  brandy  is  usually  added  to  the  dish 
in  which  a  galantine  is  cooked,  but 
it  may  be  omitted.  Water  or  broth 
should  not  be  used. 

Aspic  Jelly 

Broth  should  be  made  of  the  trim- 
mings and  bones  of  the  veal  by  sim- 


Galantine  of  Veal,  Sliced  for  Serving 


mering  in  water  to  cover  about  six 
hours.  When  the  galantine  is  cooked, 
strain   this   broth   into   the    dish   with 


the  vegetables  and  let  stand  half  an 
hour  or  longer  to  dissolve  the  glaze, 
then  strain  and  chill;  remove  the  fat, 
add,  for  a  quart,  and  proportionately 
for  less,  a  package 
of  gelatine  softened 
in  a  cup  of  cold 
water,  the  thin  yel- 
low rind  of  a  lemon, 
part  of  a  "soup  bag," 
or  a  teaspoonful  of 
sweet  herbs,  seeds, 
a  clove  and  bit  of 
cinnamon  tied  in 
some  parsley  leaves, 
and  the  slight- 
beaten  white  and  crushed  shells  of  two 
eggs;  stir  over  the  fire  until  boiling,  let 
simmer  slowly  ten  minutes,  let  stand  to 
settle,  then  strain.  This  makes  a  firm 
jelly  that  may  be  cut  into  perfect 
shapes.  A  limpid  jelly,  that  will  not 
cut  and  look  as  well,  tastes  better; 
for  this  use  less  gelatine. 

Chaudfroid  Sauce 

Make  an  ordinary  sauce  of  two  table- 
spoonfuls,  each,  of  butter  and  flour, 
three-fourths  a  cup  of  rich,  well  re- 
duced-and-flavored  broth  (from  the 
bones  and  trimmings)  and  one-fourth 
a  cup  of  cream;  season,  as  needed,  with 
salt  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  paprika, 
and  add  a  scant  tablespoonful  of 
gelatine  softened  in  one-fourth  a  cup 
of  broth;  stir  until 
the  gelatine  is  dis- 
solved ;  stir  again 
until  cool  enough 
to  remain  in  place 
and  yet  run  easily 
over  the  galantine. 

Chicken, 
Princess   Style 

The    day     before 

cooking    truss    a 

chicken     or     young 

fowl     as     for     roasting.       Cover     the 

neck,     pinions,     giblets     and     a     few 

bits    of    uncooked    veal,    if    at    hand. 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


333 


with  cold  water  and  let  simmer  three 
or  four  hours;  strain  off  the  broth  and 
when  cold  remove  the  fat.  When 
ready  to  cook  the  chicken,  heat  the 
broth  to  the  boiling  point.  Set  the 
chicken  in  an  earthen  dish  just  large 
enough  to  take  it,  pour  over  the  broth, 
cover  close  and  let  cook  very  gently 
until  tender,  two  hours  or  longer  ac- 
cording to  age.  Pour  off  the  broth, 
thicken,  as  needed,  with  flour  mixed 
with  water,  and  let  simmer  fifteen 
minutes.  Remove  from  the  fire  and 
beat  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter, 
creamed  and  mixed  with  half  a  cup 
of  asparagus  puree.  Season,  as  needed, 
with  salt  and  pepper.     Set  the  chicken 


the  table.  If  convenient  add  one  or 
two  yolks  of  egg  to  each  pint  of  po- 
tato. Keep  the  mixture  quite  con- 
sistent. Shape  into  ovals  or  rounds; 
"  egg-and-bread  crumb."  Score  the 
top  of  each  lightly  about  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  from  the  edge.  Fry  in  deep 
fat;  cut  around  the  scoring  and  take 
out  the  center,  to  leave  a  case  with  walls 
one-third  of  an  inch  thick.  Use  as 
designated. 

Lamb  Chops,  Breaded 

Purchase  either  loin  chops  or  those 
from  the  best  end  of  the  rib;  neck 
chops  are  not  tender,  cooked  in  this 
way.     Remove     superfluous    fat,     rub 


Chicken,  Princess  Style 


on  a  serving  dish;  set  around  it  some 
croustades  of  mashed  potato,  filled 
with  asparagus  tips  (held  together 
with  a  tablespoonful  or  more  of  the 
sauce),  alternated  with  little  bundles 
of  asparagus  tips.  Pour  the  sauce  over 
the  chicken  and  the  tips  of  the  bundles 
of  asparagus.  Canned  asparagus  tips 
answer,  when  the  fresh  vegetable  is 
not  available. 

Potato  Croustades 

Press  hot  boiled  potatoes  through  a 
ricer  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  a 
little  cream  or  milk  and  butter,  as  for 


the  meat  with  the  cut  side  of  an  onion, 
and  season  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper, 
roll  in  flour,  brush  over  with  beaten 
egg  diluted  with  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  milk,  and  then  roll  in  sifted  bread 
crumbs;  fry  in  deep  fat;  drain  on  soft 
paper.  Pass  at  the  same  time  tomato 
sauce,  mashed  or  scalloped  potatoes. 

Tomato  Sauce 

Cook  half  a  can  of  tomatoes,  two 
slices  of  onion,  a  bit  of  bacon  or  ham, 
a  few  slices  of  carrot  and  a  branch  of 
parsley  twenty  minutes;  strain  and 
use  as  the  liquid  with  three  tablespoon- 


334 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


fuls,  each,  of  butter  and  flour  cooked 
together  in  making  a  sauce.  For  a 
higher  flavored  sauce,  brown  the  vege- 
tables in  butter  before  adding  them  to 
the  tomato. 

Creamed  Turnips 

Pare  and  cut  in  half-inch  slices  any 
variety  of  turnips;  let  stand  in  cold 
water  an  hour  or  longer,  then  set  to 
cook  until  tender  in  boiling  water 
without  salt.  Cut  the  slices  of  turnip 
in  cubes.  For  a  generous  (heaping) 
cup  of  cubes  make  a  cup  of  white 
sauce  of  two  tablespoonfuls,  each,  of 
butter    and    flour,    one-fourth    a   tea- 


until  the  eggs  are  smooth  and  creamy; 
add  the  croutons ;  stir  a  moment  longer 
and  turn  upon  a  hot  dish.  Scrambled 
eggs  (without  the  croutons)  are  particu- 
larly good  for  luncheon  served  in 
potato  croustades.  Asparagus  tips, 
peas  or  little  cubes  of  cooked  ham  or 
bacon  may  replace  the  little  bread 
croutons. 

Grape-Fruit,  White  Grape-and- 
Quince  Salad 

Remove  the  pulp  from  one  grape- 
fruit, cut  in  halves,  in  as  large  pieces 
as  possible.  Skin  and  seed  half  a 
pound    of   white    grapes.     Cut    six    or 


Grape  Fruit,  White  Grape-and-Quince  Salad 


spoonful,  each,  of  salt  and  paprika,  and 
a  cup  of  rich  milk.  Let  the  cubes  of 
turnip  stand  in  the  sauce  (over  hot 
water)  to  become  very  hot. 

Scrambled  Eggs  with  Croutons 

For  two  people  take  four  eggs  and 
one  slice  of  bread;  cut  the  bread  into 
dice  (free  from  crust)  and  shake  them 
in  a  pan  with  a  tablespoonful  of 
melted  butter  until  nicely  browned, 
turn  upon  soft  paper  and  keep  hot. 
Beat  the  eggs  with  a  spoon,  add  one- 
fourth  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt  and 
pepper,  turn  into  an  omelet  pan  in  which 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  or  rich 
milk  have  been  heated,  stir  constantly 
with   a   spoon,   over   a   moderate   fire. 


eight  quarters  of  preserved  quinces 
(canned  pears  or  peaches  may  be 
used)  in  small  squares.  To  three- 
fourths  a  cup  of  cream  add  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  juice  from  the  grape- 
fruit, one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice 
and  half  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt 
and  paprika,  and  beat  until  firm. 
Dispose  the  fruit  in  separate  groups, 
the  quince  in  the  center,  on  a  bed  of 
lettuce  hearts.  Pipe  the  cream  on 
the  quince.  In  serving  put  a  lettuce 
leaf  on  a  plate;  on  this  dispose  a  little 
of  each  variety  of  fruit  and  a  little  of 
the  dressing.  This  salad  is  good  with 
French  dressing,  in  which  use  grape- 
fruit juice  in  place  of  lemon  juice  in  the 
dressing. 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


335^ 


Caramel  Charlotte  Russe 


Almond  Lady-Finger  Meringues 

These  meringues  are  given  as  a  lining 
for  the  mold  in  which  the  caramel 
cream  is  shaped.  Sponge  lady  fingers 
may  be  used  in  their  place.  For  four- 
teen meringues  select  two  large  eggs; 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  will  fill  a  cup 
to  one-third  of  its  height.  Two  and 
one-half  times  the  measure  (scant  three- 
fourths  a  cup)  of  granulated  sugar  is 
needed,  also  a  dozen  almonds  and  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract.  Beat 
the  whites    drv,  then  with   the  whisk 


gradually  beat  in  the  sugar.  Cover 
a  hard-wood  board,  an  inch  thick, 
that  will  set  in  the  oven,  with  paper 
and  fasten  the  ends  with  tacks ;  on  this 
shape  the  mixture,  using  bag  and  tube; 
dredge  with  sugar,  and  sprinkle  with 
sliced  almonds;  set  into  a  slack  oven 
to  dry  out  the  moisture.  Do  not  let 
the  meringues  color  until  after  thirty- 
five  minutes,  then  increase  the  heat  ta 
color  delicately.  Remove  from  the- 
paper  at  once,  invert  in  a  baking  pan 
and  return  to  the  oven  to  dry  the  under 
side.     Blanch  the  almondsbefore  slicing. 


Almond  Lady-Finger  Meringue: 


336 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Caramel  Charlotte   Russe 


softened    gelatine    and    strain    into    a 
bowl-shaped  agate  dish ;  set  the  dish  in 
Soften     one-fourth     a     package     of     ice  water  (or  snow)  and  stir  until  the 
gelatine    in   one-fourth   a    cup   of   cold      mixture  begins  to  jelly,   then   fold  in 


Blushing  Apples  with  Orange  Sauce 


water;  beat  one  cup  and  a  half  of 
cream  (one  cup  of  double  cream  and 
half  a  cup  from  the  top  of  a  quart 
bottle  of  milk  answers  the  purpose) 
until  firm  throughout.  Beat  the  yolks 
of  two  eggs.  Measure  out  two-thirds 
a  cup  of  sugar,  add  two  level  table- 
spoonfuls  to  the  beaten  eggs  and  beat 
again.  Stir  the  rest  of  the  sugar  over 
a  quick  fire  until  it  melts  to  a  smooth 
syrup;  add  half  a  cup  of  boiling  w^ater 
and  stir  until  the  caramel  is  again 
melted ;  gradually  pour  this  syrup  over 
the  yolks  and  sugar  and  when  well 
mixed  return  the  whole  to  the  saucepan 
and  cook  over  hot  water,  stirring  con- 
stantly until  the  egg  thickens;  add  the 


the  cream.  When  the  mixture  will 
"hold  its  shape,"  set  one  of  the  almond 
meringues,  decorated  side  outwards, 
upright  at  the  center  of  one  side  of  a 
charlotte  mold;  put  a  spoonful  of  the 
mixture  at  the  base  of  the  meringue 
to  hold  it  in  place ;  set  a  second  meringue 
a  short  distance  from  the  first,  add 
mixture  to  hold  it  in  place,  continue 
in  this  way  until  the  mold  is  lined,  then 
turn  in  the  rest  of  the  cream  mixture, 
which  should  come  to  the  top  of  the 
meringues.  If  any  of  the  meringues 
stand  up  beyond  the  cream  filling, 
trim  them  to  the  level  of  the  filling 
before  unmolding.  When  unmolded 
the  charlotte  mav  be  decorated  with 


Valentine  Cakes 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


337 


whipped  cream  and  sliced  and  browned 
almonds,  if  desired. 

Blushing  Apples  ^vith  Apple  Sauce 

Select  eight  bright  red  apples.  Wipe 
the  apples  carefully  and  remove  the 
cores.  Set  to  cook  in  boiling  water, 
turning  as  needed,  to  cook  the  apples 
uniformly  on  all  sides.  When  done 
remove  to  a  plate  and  with  sharp 
knife  cut  through  the  skin  on  two  sides 
of  the  apples,  remove  the  skin  and  with 
a  teaspoon  scrape  the  inner  side  of  the 
skin  to  remove  from  it  all  red  pulp. 
Return  this  red  pulp  to  two  sides  of 
the  apples,  thus  causing  them  to  have 
(  the  appearance  of  blushing.  In  the 
mean  time  cook  the  grated  rind  and 
juice  of  two  oranges,  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon  and  one  cup  of  sugar  to  a 
syrup.  Pour  the  syrup  over  the  apples 
and  serve  at  once.  The  apples  and 
syrup  may  also  be  reheated  for  serving. 

Valentine  Cakes 

Bake  any  cake  mixture  in  a  thin 
sheet ;  when  cold  stamp  out  into  hearts 
with  a  tin  cutter  designed  for  the 
purpose.  Cover  one  side  with  con- 
fectioners' frosting  and  ornament  with 
hearts  cut  from  candied  or  maraschino 
cherries.  A  pointed  bit  of  cherry 
may  be  set  in  place  for  the  lower  part 
of  a  heart  and  the  shape  filled  in  with 
bits  of  cherry.  Also  the  edge  of  the 
little  cakes  may  be  decorated  with 
chopped  cherries  or  with  tiny  red  candies 
to  bring  out  more  fully  the  shape  of 
the  cakes.  The  cake,  given  under  the 
name  of  ' '  chocolate  layer  cake ' '  among 
these  recipes,  may  be'  used  for  this 
purpose.  For  a  richer  cake  use  this 
formula:  half  a  cup  of  butter,  one  cup 
of  sugar,  four  eggs,  grated  rind  and 
juice  of  half  a  lemon,  one  cup  and  a 
fourth  of  flour  and  one-fourth  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda. 

Confectioners'  Frosting 

Boil  one-third  a  cup,  each,  of  sugar 
and  water  five  minutes;  stir  in  sifted 


confectioners'  sugar  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  extract  to  make  a  paste  that  will 
spread  and  not  run  from  the  cakes. 

Chocolate  Layer  Cake 

For  the  cake  use  half  a  cup  of  butter, 
one  cup  of  sugar,  half  a  cup  of  milk, 
two  cups  of  sifted  pastry  flour,  sifted 
again  with  three  level  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking  powder,  the  whites  of  three 
eggs  and  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
extract.  Bake  in  two  layers.  For 
the  frosting  melt  two  ounces  of  choco- 
late; add  one  cup  of  sugar  and  one- 
fourth  a  cup  of  milk,  and  stir  and  cook 
to  238®  Fahr.,  or  until  a  little,  when 
tested  in  cold  water,  will  form  a  soft 
ball.  Beat  the  white  of  one  egg  until 
dry,  then  add  the  yolk  of  one  egg  and 
beat  thoroughly;  add  the  syrup  to  the 
white  and  yolk  in  a  fine  stream, 
beating  constantly  meanwhile;  flavor 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and 
use  as  a  filling  and  frosting  for  the 
cake. 

Baked   Bananas   (Mrs.  De  Rhodes) 

Peel  and  remove  coarse  threads 
from  six  or  eight  bananas  and  set 
them,  side  by  side,  in  an  agate  baking 
pan  in  which  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter  have  been  melted;  sprinkle 
with  half  a  cup  of  sugar  and  the  juice 
of  one  lemon.  Bake  from  thirty  to 
sixty  minutes.  When  baked  the  fruit 
will  be  tender  and  the  sauce  thick  and 
red. 

Stewed  Prunes 

Wash  the  prunes  thoroughly,  rinse 
and  cover  with  cold  water.  Let  stand 
overnight,  then  set  to  cook  in  the  same 
water;  let  cook  very  slowly  until  the 
flesh  will  separate  easily  from  the 
stones  and  the  hquid  has  become  quite 
thick.  Water  may  be  added  during 
cooking  if  necessary,  but,  if  the  prunes 
be  kept  covered,  the  liquid  will  not 
evaporate  quickly.  Thus  cooked  both 
prunes  and  juice  will  be  very  sweet  and 
sugar  is  unnecessary. 


Menus  for  a  Week  in  February 

For  perfect  nutrition,  not  only  food,  btU  the  right  food  is  necessary 


Breakfast 

Grape-fruit 

Finnan  Haddie  Baked  in  Milk 

Small  Potatoes,  Baked 

Baking  Powder  Biscuit.    Coffee.    Cocoa 

Dinner 

Fowl  Poached  in  Water 

(Canned)  Asparagus  Sauce 

Asparagus  in  Potato  Croustades 

Fruit  Jelly 

Caramel  Charlotte  Russe 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Mexican  Rabbit.     Olives  or  Gherkins 

Pineapple  Juice  (beverage) 

Chocolate  Layer  Cake 


Breakfast 

Barley  Crystals  with  Hot  Dates,  Thin 

Cream 

Sausage.     Delmonico  Potatoes 

Yeast  Rolls  (reheated) 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Hamburg  Roast  or  Swiss  Steak 

Stewed  Tomatoes 

Mashed  Potatoes 

Coffee  Jelly.     Boiled  Custard 

Supper 

Smoked  HaUbut 

Blushing  Apples,  Orange  Sauce 

Pop-Overs 

Tea 


Breakfast 

Stewed  Prunes 

Boiled  Rice,  Thin  Cream 

Broiled  Bacon.     Fried  Eggs 

White  Hashed  Potatoes.     Toast 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Broiled  Lamb  Chops 

Buttered  Parsnips 

Cabbage  Salad 

Squash  Pie.     Cheese 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Dried  Lima  Beans,  Stewed 

Aviation  Bread  and  Butter 

Tea.     Canned  Fruit.     Chocolate  Cake 


Breakfast 

Grape-fruit 

ChilU  Pepper 

Beef-and-Potato  Hash 

Soft  Cooked  Eggs 

Spider  Com  Cake 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Veal  Cutlets,  Breaded,  Tomato  Sauce 

Spinach  with   Hard   Cooked   Eggs 

Banana  Fritters.     Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Macaroni  with  Milk  and  Cheese 

Rye  Meal  Biscuit 

Chocolate  Cake.     Canned  Fruit 

Tea 


Breakfast 

Breakfast 

Creamed  Chicken  on  Toast 

Cereal,  Bananas,  Thin  Cream        ^ 
Codfish  Balls.     Bacon 

Radishes 

Com  Meal  Muffins 

Pickles 

Orange  Marmalade 

Dry  Toast 

< 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Dinner 

Q 

Canned  or  Frozen  Salmon,  Boiled, 

Fresh  Fish  Chowder 

C/2 

Egg  Sauce 

Philadelphia  Relish 

o 

tD 

Boiled  Potatoes.     Wax  Beans  (Canned) 

Apple  Pie 

% 

H 

Cream  of  Rice  Pudding  with  Meringue 

Cream  Cheese 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Supper 

Cheese  Pudding 

Rice  Cooked  with  Beef  Extract, 

Stewed  Primes.     Biscmt 

Tomatoes  and  Cheese 

Cookies.     Tea 

Cranberry  Muffins.     Tea.     Cocoa 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Finnan  Haddie  in  Milk 

French  Fried  Potatoes 

Rice  Griddle  Cakes 

Coffee.     Cocoa 


Dinner 

Fried  Chicken  (stewed 

fowl,  dipped  in  flour) 

Komlet  Fritters 

Mashed  Potatoes 

Cranberry  Sauce 

Date  Souffle,  Sugar  and 

Cream 

Half  Cups  of  0)ffee 

338 


Supper 

Cream  Toast  with 
Poached  Eggs 

Macedoine  of  Vegetables  in 
Tomato  Jelly 

Lettuce,  French  Dressing 

Chocolate  Cake.     Tea 


Menus  for  Little  Dinners  and  Luncheons 


Little  Dinners 


I 

TrufRed  Eggs  k  la  Muscovite 

Larded    Fillet    of    Beef,    Brown    Mushroom 

Sauce 

French  Endive  Salad 

Asparagus  in  Potato  Croustades 

Fruit  Cup 

Coffee 


II 

Grapefruit-and-White-Grape  Cocktail 

Consomm^  with  Vermicelli 

Fried  Oysters,  Sauce  Tartare 

Poached  Chicken,  Princess  Style 

Celery-and-Pimento  Salad 

Caramel  Charlotte  Russe  with 

Lady-finger  Meringues 

Coffee 


III 

Fresh  Mushroom  Cocktail 

Fish  Border  (timbale)  with  Peas 

HoUandaise  Sauce 

Olives.     Radishes 

Guinea  Fowl  en  Casserole  (without  broth) 

Canned  Asparagus  and  Lettuce, 

French  Dressing 

Golden  Parfait.     Coffee 

IV 

Scallop  Cocktail 

Chicken  Bouillon 

Fried  Fillets  of  Fish,  Sauce  Tartare 

Mushrooms  on  Toast  under  Glass  Bells 

Boned  Loin  of  Lamb,  Roasted, 

Mint  Sauce  or  Jelly 

Pineapple  Fritters 

Mashed  Potato,  Vienna  Style 

French  Endive 

Biscuit  Tortoni.     Coffee 


Little  Luncheons 


Halves  of  Grape-fruit  with  White  Grapes 

Creamed  Oysters  and  Mushrooms  in 

Swedish  Timbale  Cases  or  Ramekins 

Olives.     Radishes 

Mayonnaise  of  Cream  Cheese  and  Pimentos 

Pulled  Bread 

Blushing  Apples,  Orange  Sauce 

Coffee 

II 

Halves  of  Grape-fruit,  Maraschino  Cherries 

Chicken  Soup  with  Meringue 

Oyster  Croquettes,  Sauce  Tartare 

Yeast  Rolls  or  Baking  Powder  Biscuit 

Asparagus  and  Lettuce,  French  Dressing 

Coupe  Venus 

Coffee 


III 


Macedoine  of  Fruit  in  Glass  Cups 

Fish  Timbales,  Fish  Bechamel  Sauce 

Cucumbers,  French  Dressing 

Galantine  of  Veal,  Aspic  Jelly 

White  Hashed  Potatoes  in  Ramekins 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream  with  Preserved 

Strawberries  or  Bar-le-duc 

Coffee 

IV 

Chicken  Broth  with  Rice 

Lamb  Chops,  Broiled 

French  Fried  Potatoes 

Lettuce,  Macedoine  in  Tomato  Jelly, 

French  Dressing 

Cocoa,  Whipped  Cream 

Sponge  Cake 


V 
Clam  Broth 
Chicken  Croquettes,  Peas 
Cream  Cheese,  Bar-le-duc 

Toasted  Crackers 

Grape  or  Pineapple  Juice 

330 


Lessons  in  Elementary  Cooking 

By  Mary  Chandler  Jones 

Teacher  of  Cookery  in  the  Public  Schools  of  Brookline,  Mass 

LESSON  VII. 


Sugar 


CARBOHYDRATES  consist  of  the 
starches  and  sugars.  Not  long 
ago  we  studied  something  about 
starch  and  its  cookery,  and  in  this  lesson 
we  shall  consider  sugar. 

Let  the  pupils  recall  the  appearance 
of  starch,  its  sources  and  its  behavior 
in  cold  and  hot  water,  as  well  as  its 
taste.  Compare  sugar  in  these  respects 
during  the  progress  of  the  lesson.  Test 
sugars  for  starch  with  the  iodine  solu- 
tion. 

There  are  many  kinds  of  sugar,  ob- 
tained from  various  sources  and  grown 
in  different  lands.  Sugar  cane,  sugar 
beet,  maple  sugar  and  honey  form  our 
chief  sources  of  supply  for  sugar,  as 
such.  Let  the  pupils  notice  the  sweet- 
ness of  milk  and  of  fruits  also.  A  list 
raay  be  made  of  the  different  forms  in 
which  sugar  comes  to  our  homes.  Which 
of  these  are  made  from  sugar  cane? 
Notice  that,  with  the  exception  of  milk 
sugar,  all  these  sugars  are  of  vegetable 
origin,  as  all  starches  are  stored  up  by 
plants  for  their  own  future  use. 

A  little  study  may  be  made  of  the 
geographical  distribution  of  the  plants 
producing  sugar.  Reports  may  be 
made  upon  the  process  of  sugar-making 
and  refining.  Pupils  who  have  seen 
the  manufacture  of  maple  sugar  will 
be  interested  to  describe  it  and  to  make 
a  comparison  between  the  process  of 
cane-sugar  preparation  and  that  of 
maple  sugar. 

All  these  sugars,  differing  so  much  in 
appearance,  yet  have,  in  common,  one 
very    noticeable    property.      Let    the 


pupils  taste  different  sugars.     Which 
are  sweeter?   Why? 

Experiments  on  the  solubility  of 
sugar. 

I.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar 
into  one-half  a  cup  of  cold  water. 

II.  Use  the  same  amounts  of 
sugar  and  water,  but  have  the  water 
boiling. 

Which  dissolves  more  quickly  and 
more  completely?  What  difference  is 
found  here  between  sugar  and  starch? 

Sugar  may  be  cooked  by  itself  or  in 
water.  By  itself  it  is  cooked  for  the 
preparation  of  sauces,  candies  and 
coloring  matter.  (Caramel  coloring.) 
In  water  it  is  cooked  for  use  in  syrups 
for  fruit  cookery,  ices,  pudding  sauces, 
fro  stings  and  candies.  In  either  case, 
certain  precautions  against  burning  and 
"sugaring"  must  be  taken. 

When  sugar  is  to  be  cooked  by  itself 
it  must  be  placed  in  a  very  clean, 
smooth  frying-pan  and  stirred  con- 
stantly, to  prevent  uneven  heating  and 
too  great  browning  or  even  burning. 
Do  not  allow  the  sugar  to  collect  in 
the  bowl  of  the  spoon,  as  this  will  be 
slow  to  melt  and  to  blend  and  may 
endanger  the  color  and  flavor  of  the 
whole  syrup  or  candy.  It  is  often 
better,  if  the  sugar  has  collected  on  the 
spoon,  to  sacrifice  that  amount  rather 
than  to  spoil  the  whole.  With  care  and 
practice,  however,  it  is  possible  to  melt 
the  sugar  evenly  and  with  a  slight 
degree  of  caramelization  or  '  *  burning. ' ' 

The  cookery  of  sugar  without  water 
may  be  illustrated  by  the  making  of 


340 


LESSONS  IN  ELEMENTARY  COOKING 


341 


Caramel  Synip  and  Peanut  Brittle.  In 
the  Caramel  Syrup  the  sugar  is  first 
melted,  then  dissolved  in  water  to 
prevent  its  hardening.  This  makes  a 
sauce  suitable  for  many  puddings,  for 
caramel  custard  and  for  various  griddle- 
cakes  and  toasts.  It  is  a  wholesome 
sauce,  and  a  taste  for  it  may  be  wisely 
cultivated. 

Caramel  Syrup 

1  cup  of  sugar  1  cup  of  boiling  water 
Melt  the  sugar  in  a  frying  pan,  care- 
fully, with  constant  stirring.  When 
the  sugar  has  become  a  light  golden- 
brown  syrup,  add  the  water  gradually 
and  very  carefully,  as  it  will  cause 
much  bubbling.  The  syrup  is  far 
hotter  than  boiling  water  and  must  be 
most  carefully  handled.  (What  is  the 
cause  of  the  bubbling?)  Boil  the 
caramel  in  the  water  ten  minutes,  let 
cool  and  serve.  Be  careful  that  the 
syrup  does  not  boil  too  fast  and  so 
become  too  thick. 

Peanut  Brittle 

1  cup  of  sugar  |  a  cup  of  peanuts,  chopped 
Melt  the  sugar  as  for  caramel  syrup 
and,  when  it  is  a  light  golden  brown, 
stir  in  the  chopped  peanuts  and  pour 
out  at  once  in  a  thin  layer  upon  a  tin 
sheet  or  the  bottom  of  a  tin  pan. 
While  cooling,  shape  with  two  knives 
into  a  square  and  score  into  small, 
even  squares  for  breaking  after  it  is 
cold.  If  the  candy  is  not  scored  while 
it  is  somewhat  warm,  it  will  not  break 
attractively.  Any  other  chopped  nuts 
may  be  used  in  place  of  peanuts,  or 
shredded  cocoanut  may  be  substituted. 
Cocoanut  is,  however,  less  digestible 
than  the  nuts. 

Caramel  Coloring 

Melt  a  small  quantity  of  sugar  in  a 
pan  and  let  cook  until  it  is  a  deep,  red- 
dish brown.  Pour  it  out  upon  a  pan 
and  let  it  cool.  Let  the  pupils  see  the 
color  it  gives  when  dissolved  in  water. 
Let  them  taste  it  and  notice  that  the 


sweetness    of   the    sugar    has    entirely 
disappeared. 


Mola 

1  cup  of  molasses 


sses 


PufF 


^    a    teaspoonful    of 
soda 

Butter  a  smooth,  granite-ware  sauce- 
pan and  boil  in  it  the  molasses  until  it 
is  brittle,  when  a  drop  is  placed  in  cold 
water.  Remove  from  the  heat,  beat 
in  the  soda  and  pour  at  once  upon  a 
buttered  pan.  Score  while  cooling. 
(This  illustrates  the  evaporation  of  the 
water  and  the  cookery  of  the  sugar  in 
the  molasses,  as  well  as  the  presence  of 
acid,  which  is  shown  by  the  bubbles 
when  the  soda  is  added.) 

When  sugar  is  cooked  in  water  it 
may  be  heated  to  different  tempera- 
tures, with  varying  results.  If  the 
syrup  is  boiled  for  a  long  time,  the 
water  gradually  evaporates  and  the 
solution  becomes  stronger,  forming 
what  is  called  a  "saturated  solution," 
which  easily  crystallizes.  In  order  to 
prevent  this  crystallizing,  or  "sugar- 
ing," the  syrup  must  not  be  stirred  or 
disturbed  during  the  cooking  or  cool- 
ing, and  a  little  acid  may  be  added, 
such  as  cream  of  tartar,  lemon  juice  or 
vinegar.  The  same  syrup  may  be  used 
for  the  following  tests,  by  simply  boiling 
it  more  after  each  test  has  been  made. 

Experiments  with  Syrup 

1  cup  of  sugar  §  a  cup  of  water 

■j^  a  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar 

Boil  the  water  and  sugar  together, 

stirring  until  the   sugar  is   dissolved, 

then     cook    without     stirring.     From 

time  to  time  drop  a  little  in  cold  water 

and  find  the  following: 

I.  Soft  ball,  when  the  syrup 
shapes  slightly  between  thumb  and 
finger. 

II.  Hard  ball,  when  it  forms  a 
hard  ball  in  the  water. 

III.  Soft  crack,  when  it  is  almost 
brittle. 

IV.  Crack,  when  it  is  entirely 
brittle. 


342 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


V.  Caramel,  when  the  water  is 
boiled  away  and  the  sugar  begins  to 
turn  yellow  or  brown.  What  is  left 
of  the  syrup  may  now  be  poured  upon 
a  buttered  tin  sheet  and  used  as 
"barley  candy." 

These  tests  form  the  basis  for  timing 
the  cooking  of  candy.  If  the  candy  is 
to  be  creamy,  it  should  be  cooked  to 
"soft  ball."  If  it  is  to  be  brittle  it 
must  be  cooked  to  "crack."  To  illus- 
trate the  creamy  candies,  mints  and 
chocolate  cream-candy  may  be  pre- 
pared. 

Mints 

1^  cups  of  sugar  ^  a  cup  of  water 

\  a  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar 

Cook  the  sugar,  water  and  cream  of 
tartar  together  to  "soft  ball."  Re- 
move from  the  heat  and  stop  the  cook- 
ing by  plunging  the  saucepan  into  cold 
water.  Add  six  drops  of  peppermint 
or  a  sufificient  quantity  of  any  desired 
flavoring.  Let  the  candy  stand  until 
thoroughly  cool,  then  beat  it  until 
white  and  creamy.  Drop  by  spoonfuls 
upon  waxed  paper  or  pour  out  into  a  pan. 

Chocolate  Cream  Candy  or  "Fudge'* 

2  cups  of  sugar  |  a  cup  of  milk 

2  squares  of  chocolate  1     tablespoonful     of 

butter 
1  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 


Boil  together  the  sugar,  milk  and 
chocolate  until  the  chocolate  is  melted. 
Add  the  butter  and  cook  without  stir- 
ring to  "soft  ball."  Remove  from  the 
fire,  plunge  the  saucepan  into  cold 
water  as  in  the  recipe  for  mints,  and 
proceed  as  in  that  case. 

It  is  worth  while  to  spend  a  little 
time  upon  the  subject  of  sugar  and 
candies  for  different  reasons.  Sugar 
is  an  important  article  of  food  and  use- 
ful, if  eaten  in  reasonable  amounts  and 
at  the  proper  time.  We  must  know 
something  of  its  behavior  under  differ- 
ent conditions,  in  order  to  understand 
many  processes  in  cookery. 

Children  desire  candy  more  than 
grown  persons,  and  it  is  desirable  that 
they  should  have  that  which  is  made 
from  pure,  good  materials.  Compare 
the  cost  of"  wholesome,  clean  peanut 
brittle  with  that  of  cheap  candies,  made 
under  unknown  conditions  and  offered 
for  sale  in  the  midst  of  a  dusty,  un- 
protected news  or  candy  stand.  The 
making  of  candy  becomes  a  pleasure 
fully  equal  to  that  of  eating  it,  and  the 
joy  of  helping  to  provide  for  a  little 
party  or  candy  sale  with  an  inexpen- 
sive, yet  well-made  article,  is  an  in- 
centive to  patient,  careful,  observing 
work. 


A  Wish  to  You,  My  Friend 

By  Grace  Agnes  Thompson 

'  Every  wish  is  like  a  prayer  with  God." 

Elizabbth  Barrett  Browning. 

Not  a  bit  of  sorrow,  not  a  bit  of  care; 

A  sunnier  tomorrow,  with  music  everywhere; 

Of  joy  the  sweetest  portion,  of  love  the  fullest  store; 

Safe  conduct  o'er  life's  ocean,  — what  could  I  wish  you  more? 

What  wish  you  more?  ah,  listen!     I  would  have  you  know 

The  precious  strength  of  sorrow,  the  sympathy  of  woe; 

The  grandeur  of  the  tempest  which  brings  the  Iris  bow; 

The  full  symphonic  chorus  of  real  life,  —  some  low 

Trilled  notes,  wild  strains,  gay  songs,  great  chords,  well  harmonied. 

Thus  shall  your  joy  be  perfect,  your  love-thirst  satisfied; 

For  loving  well,  you  shall  inspire  affection  to  abide. 

And  thus  be  all  you  may,  your  noblest  self,  as  gold  by  fire  tried. 


Choice  Masquerade  Costumes 


By  Margaret  Hight 


IX  the  selection  of  a  masquerade 
costume  there  are  many  points  to 
be  considered.  First  of  all,  make 
a  study  of  the  character  you  decide  to 
portray,  and  try  to  feel  as  she  must 
have  felt.  Even  the  facial  expression 
is  of  great  assistance.  Are  you  light? 
Pray,  do  not  depict  "Minnehaha,"  as  I 
saw  a  pretty  blonde  once  try  to  do. 
If  you  are  dark,  and  plump  of  figure, 
think  no  more  of  "Evangeline."  An 
almost  perfect  figure  is  required  for  an 
equestrian  costume,  and  then  it  is 
certainly  most  effective. 

Grace  Darling.  A  dark  blue  serge 
sailor  suit,  with  short  skirt,  wide  white 
collar  and  tie,  a  red  felt  cap,  a  Hfe- 
buoy  fastened  on  the  dress,  and  a 
fishing  net  secured  at  the  shoulder. 
The  wavy  hair  should  be  arranged  in 
careless  fashion  at  the  back  of  the 
neck.  An  oar,  to  which  seaweed  is 
clinging  or  a  small  lantern,  may 
be  carried  in  the  hand.  Gulls' 
wings  at  the  bottom  of  the  skirt, 
and  the  costume  is  attractive  and 
unique. 

Rainbow.  A  fashionable  white  mus- 
lin gown,  with  a  tulle  scarf  made  of  the 
colors  of  the  rainbow,  red,  yellow, 
green,  blue,  pink,  gray,  violet  and 
orange,  arranged  in  little  folds.  A  fan 
of  the  same,  on  the  right  side  of  the 
skirt,  a  pompon  as  a  hair  ornament, 
and  the  word  "rainbow "  worked  in  the 
colors  on  a  black  velvet  ribbon  around 
the  neck. 

Maid-was-in-tJie-Garden,"  etc.  Short 
red  skirt  with  flowered  cretonne  basque. 
Bandana  pinned  around  the  head,  and 
clothes  pins  fastened  on  a  rope  around 
the  waist.  On  the  shoulder  is  perched 
a  stuffed  black  bird. 

Hornet.  Short  black  dress,  black 
satin  boots,  tunic-pointed  back  and 
front  of  black  and  gold  stripes,  black 


bodice,    and    green    and    black    gauze 
wings.    Cap  of  black  velvet. 

Little  Nell.  Short  brown  dress 
trimmed  with  woolen  braid,  wide  lace 
collar,  white  stockings  and  ankle  ties. 
Light-colored  sunbonnet  tied  under  the 
chin  -^ith  striped  ribbon. 

Vivian  (Idylls  of  the  King).  Long 
gray  robe,  gold  belt  at  waist,  flowing 
hair  with  gold  band  around  the  head. 
Low  bodice  and  puffed  sleeves. 

Lady  of  the  Lake  (to  be  worn  by  a 
blonde).  White  muslin  dress  flounced 
to  the  waist,  black  velvet  bodice  laced 
with  silver  cord,  scarf  of  pale  blue 
satin  fastened  with  a  Scotch  brooch. 
Hair  in  curls. 

Daughter  of  the  Regiment  (to  be  worn 
by  a  brunette).  Dark  red  cloth  skirt; 
made  in  close  plaited  folds,  white  cloth 
jacket  embroidered  in  gold,  red  waist 
coat  with  revers  to  the  jacket,  forage 
cap  with  gold  band,  high  black 
boots  and  small  barrel  gun  in  the 
hand. 

Bunch  of  Keys.  A  long  black  dress 
on  which  gilded  keys  of  all  sizes  are 
fastened,  a  huge  key  is  suspended  at 
the  waist,  and  a  pointed  cap  is  made 
with  a  large  key  at  the  top. 

"  Tix'o  Little  Girls  in  Blue,''  speak  for 
themselves  I 

Bohemian  Girl.  Rose  colored  tulle 
dress  covered  with  coins  and  gold 
braid;  scarf  of  many  colors  round  the 
skirt,  gold  armlets  below  and  above 
the  elbow,  Hght  blue  turban. 

Magpie.  Half  black,  half  white 
dress,  hair  powdered  on  one  side  and 
not  the  other,  one  white  glove  and 
one  black,  slipper  the  same,  short 
satin  skirt,  ribbon  tied  arovmd  the 
throat,  gauze  cap  half  white,  half 
black,  so  the  wearer  may  appear  all 
white  on  one  side  and  black  on  the 
other. 


343 


In  February 

By  Laura  R.  Talbot 


A  CLEVER  woman  paid  all  her 
social  debts  in  ten  days  by 
giving  a  Valentine  Heart  Party 
for  the  young  people,  a  George  Wash- 
ington Dinner  for  older  married  people, 
and  a  Presidential  Tea  for  a  Ladies' 
Literary  Club. 

Presidential  Tea 

"Good  Old  Abraham." 

King  Richard  II 

Each   of  the  booklets  in  which  to 

record  answers  had  on  the  front  cover 

a  picture  of  Lincoln,  and  on  the  back 

cover  a  couplet  from  his  favorite  poem, 

"Oh,  why  should  the  spirit  of  mortal 

be  proud,"  etc. 

TABLE  I 
Which  President  of  United  States  was 

1  A  Wisconsin  city (Madison) 

2  A  noted  doctrine (Monroe) 

3  Doorkeeper  of  a  Masonic  lodge  (Tyler) 

4  To  concede (Grant) 

TABLE  II 
What  President 

1  was  never  married      .    .  (Buchanan) 

2  Monticello  was  the  home  of  .  (Jefferson) 

3  plays  golf (Taft) 

TABLE  III 
What  President  was  nicknamed 

1  Old  Hickory (Jackson) 

2  Rough  Rider (Roosevelt) 

3  Rail  Splitter (Lincoln) 

TABLE  IV 
Fill  blanks  with  names  of  Presidents. 

When  had  his  vacation  he  visited  in 

,   Ohio,  and  then  went  to  ,   D.C. 

There  he  saw  many  sights;  among  them  the 
Capitol,     the     White     House,     and     Ford's 

Theater,   where  was  killed.      He  saw 

"Big  Bill"  ,  and  met who  said  he 

was  de-lighted.  On  his  way  home  he 
stopped  in  New  York.  He  was  much  inter- 
ested   in    the    tomb    of    on    Riverside 

Drive,  and  he  went  to  see  a  play  called 
Quincy Sawyer. 

He  also  went  to  Coney  Island,  where  there 
was  entertainment  of  all  kinds.  In  one 
show  was  a  quack  dentist  who  claimed  he 

could  teeth  in  a  day  than  any  other 

man  could  in  a  week. 


Answers 
Arthur  —  Cleveland   —  Washington   — 
Lincoln  —  Taft  —  Roosevelt  —  Grant  — 
Adams  —  Fillmore. 

The  four  who  won  in  this  contest  then 
played  the  rubber  at  the 

LINCOLN  TABLE 
All  about  A.  Lincoln 

1  Where  was  he  bom? 

2  Date  of  birth? 

3  Whom  did  he  marry? 

4  When  did  he  die? 

5  In  what  city  was  he  killed? 

6  What  play  was  he  attending? 

7  In  what  building? 

8  Who  killed  him? 

9  Who  succeeded  him  as  President? 

Answers 

1  Hardin  County,  Ky. 

2  February  12,  1809. 

3  Mary  Todd. 

4  April  15,  1865. 

5  Washington,  D.C. 

6  Our  American  Cousin. 

7  Ford's  Theater. 

8  J.  Wilkes  Booth. 

9  Andrew  Johnson. 

The  prize  winner  received  a  Lincoln 
spoon,  while  she  who  was  the  poorest 
guesser  received  a  Lincoln  penny. 
Refreshments  were  then  served. 

Valentine  Party 

"Some  Cupid  kills  with  arrows,  some  with 
traps."  Shakespeare. 

Partners  for  the  evening  were  found 
by  means  of  candy  "motto"  hearts. 
These  were  broken  in  two,  and  each 
young  lady  was  given  a  piece,  but  the 
men  were  obliged  to  hunt  for  theirs. 
As  they  were  carefully  hidden,  this  took 
some  length  of  time,  and  proved  an 
excellent  "ice  breaker."  The  silly 
mottoes  were  read  with  laughter  as  the 
couples  chose  their  tables  for  progres- 
sive hearts;  the  best  player  was  re- 
warded with  a  heart-shaped  box  of 
candied  violets,  while  a  comic  valentine 
served  for  consolation. 


344 


COOKERY  IN  LITERATURE 


345 


MENU 

Heart  Bread  and  Butter  Sandwiches 

Creamed  Chicken 

Love-apple  (Tomato)  Salad 

Heart-shaped  Ices  and  Cakes 

Kisses 

Valentine  Nectar 


Love  Apple  Salad 
Cut  out  heart-shaped  pieces  of  to- 
mato jelly  (that  was  hardened  in  a 
large,  flat  dish)  and  place  on  lettuce 
leaves.  Mix  together  chopped  olives 
and  cucumber  pickle  with  mayonnaise 
and  place  a  bit  upon  each  heart. 

Valentine  Nectar 

Melt  six  rounding  teaspoonfuls  of 
grated  chocolate  and  then  add  quickly 
six  cupfuls  of  boiling  milk;  when 
chocolate  is  dissolved,  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  very  strong,  clear  coffee, 
one  tablespoonful  of  sherry,  and  one 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Serve  hot  with 
whipped  cream  and  sugar. 


George  Washington  Dinner 

"The  memory  and  the  name  of  Washington." 

Everett, 

Flags  were  used  for  decoration  and 
the  table  was  lighted  with  red,  white 
and  blue  candles.  A  substantial  dinner 
of  hearty  old-time  dishes  was  served, 
and  included  election  cake,  cocked- 
hat  cakes  and  George  Washington  pie. 
The  host  and  hostess  represented 
George  and  Martha,  and  upon  the 
hatchet  place  cards  was: 

"America  has  furnished  to  the  world  the 
character  of  Washington."     Daniel  Webster. 

During  the  remainder  of  the  evening, 
the  guests  hunted  for  small  silver  stars 
(cut  from  cardboard  and  covered  with 
tin  foil) .  The  winner,  not  the  one  who 
found  the  most,  but  the  one  who  had 
the  nearest  to  the  number  on  the 
United  States  flag,  received  a  huge 
cherry  pie. 

Stories  were  told,  and  old-fashioned 
songs  finished  the  delightful  evening. 


Cookery  in  Literature 

By  E.  E.  M. 


LALLA  ROOKH,  previous  to  the 
beginning  of  her  memorable  jour- 
'  ney,  had  seen  a  poet  but  once, 
when  she  gazed  at  him  behind  the 
screens  of  gauze  in  her  father's  hall. 
She  conceived  from  the  specimen,  we 
are  told,  no  very  favorable  idea  of  the 
caste,  and  if  she  had  formerly  beheved 
that  poets  subsist  mainly  on  conserves 
of  rose  leaves  and  the  tongues  of  nightin- 
gales, that  belief  was  doubtless  rudely 
shattered.  Poets,  as  we  in  the  western 
world  have  known  them,  have  never 
been  disdainful  of  the  pleasures  of  the 
table,  although  they  have  taken  them 
for  the  most  part  in  moderation,  and 
waxed  eloquent,  usually,  over  the  sim- 
plest foods. 


Oliver  Wendell  Holmes .  said  with 
undoubted  sincerity,  "Better  a  hash 
at  home  than  a  roast  with  strangers." 
He  praised  the  home  kitchen  where 
coffee  has  pre-existed  in  the  berry,  and 
tea  has  still  faint  recollections  of  the 
pigtails  that  dangled  about  the  plant 
from  which  it  was  picked,  where  soup 
can  look  one  in  the  face,  and  gentle 
maids  take  the  place  of  "napkin-bear- 
ing animals,"  such  as  he,  in  earHer 
days  than  ours,  be  it  understood, 
found  generally  in  taverns.  "Omelets 
taste,"  he  grumbled,  "as  if  they  had 
been  carried  in  the  waiter's  hat  or  fried 
in  an  old  boot,"  while  the  sources  of 
the  soup  were  a  darker  mystery  than 
the    sources    of   the    Nile,    before    the 


346 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 


days    of    the    African    explorers.     He 
insisted  faithfully: 

"  Plain  food  is  quite  enough  for  me; 
Three  courses  are  as  good  as  ten; 
If  nature  can  subsist  on  three, 
Thank  heaven  for  three.    Amen!  " 

When  Circe,  the  saffron-vested  witch, 
wished    to    charm    the    comrades    of 
Ulysses,   she  put  before  them  cheese 
and  meat  and  yellow  honey,  bringing 
forth  at  the  same  time  her  jars  of  po- 
tent juices,  unsuggestive  of  the  acorns 
and  cornel  berries  upon  which  the  com- 
pany were  soon  to  feast.     One  would 
miss   honey   from  the   repasts   of  the 
Grecian  poets.     Poor  little  Astyanax 
was  not  the  only  boy  to  be  carefully 
nourished   on   honey   and   the    fat    of 
lambs.     It  is  from  Attic  comedy  that 
we  obtain  some  idea  of  less  poetical 
foods,     and    the    Sauce    Science,     as 
Philoxenus  called  it,  still  supplies  num- 
berless details  about  Grecian  cooking 
and  marketing  to  him  who  is  sufficiently 
learned   to    study   them    out.     Before 
the  Roman  custom  of  keeping  slaves  to 
cook  at  home  had  found  its  way  into 
Greece,  the  professional  chef  came  upon 
call   and   provided   the    elaborate   en- 
tertainments for  invited  guests.     Cooks 
were  important  personages  and  had  at 
their  disposal  whole  Hbraries  of  culinary 
lore,  to  master  which  they  needed  to 
be  not  only  trained  scholars  but  meta- 
physicians to  boot.     To  invent  a  popu- 
lar cake  was  to  become  a  hero.     One 
hears  yet   of  the  epicure,  who   once, 
forced  to  stay  his  hunger  with  Lace- 
demonian  black  broth,  declared  that 
he  no   longer  wondered  the   Spartans 
were    fearless    of    death,    since    dying 
itself  would  be  preferable  to  Hving  upon 
their  fare.     It  is  small  surprise  then, 
that  the  poets  and  dramatists  pressed 
the  cook  into  their  service,  celebrated 
his  achievements  in  verses,  and  wrote 
plays  based  on  his  doings. 

Pleasant  memories  cluster  about  our 
litersLTy  friends  and  their  relation  to 
the  food  that  supphed  nourishment  to 
the  brains  that  thought  and  the  fingers 


that  wrote.  We  like  to  think  of  Harriet 
Beecher  Stowe  stopping  her  writing  of 
"Uncle  Tom's  Cabin"  to  buy  codfish; 
or  George  EHot  on  the  Scilly  Islands  de- 
Hvering  culinary  lectures  every  morn- 
ing to  develop  her  landlady's  rudi- 
mentary ideas  of  cooking;  or  Leigh 
Hunt,  serenely  inviting  his  friends  to 
dine  with  him  on  mutton  in  Surrey 
Jail,  whither  his  libel  on  the  Prince 
Regent  had  driven  him;  or  Hawthorne 
at  the  Saturday  Club,  "eating his  dinner 
and  doing  nothing  but  that,"  "burying 
his  eyes  in  his  plate"  and  ignoring  his 
neighbors  until  the  happy  moment 
when  he  could  fly  back  to  his  Concord 
home  and  "ask  his  Heavenly  Father 
why  it  was  that  an  owl  couldn't  re- 
main an  owl  and  not  be  forced  into 
the  diversions  of  a  canary." 

It  has  been  inevitable,  naturally, 
that  the  national  dishes  of  the  different 
countries  should  be  widely  celebrated 
in  prose  and  verse.  The  roast  beef 
and  plum  pudding  of  England,  the 
flapjacks  and  hasty  pudding  of  the 
eastern  Colonies,  the  salt  beef  of  Hol- 
land, the  sauer  kraut  of  Germany,  the 
caviar  of  Russia,  the  pilau  of  Turkey, 
the  polenta  and  macaroni  of  Italy,  the 
olla  podrida  of  Spain,  the  hot  tamales 
of  California  and  Mexico,  the  baked 
beans  of  Massachusetts,  became  fa- 
miliar names  in  all  languages  less  be- 
cause the  dishes  themselves  made  their 
way  than  because  they  were  repeated 
in  novels,  poems  and  dramas.  That 
the  charm  of  national  dishes  may  yield 
on  occasion  to  even  more  poetic  con- 
siderations, however,  is  indicated  in 
Gay's  song  of  the  First  Shepherd,  in  the 
"Shepherd's  Week": 

"  Leek  to  the  Welsh,  to  Dutchmen  butter's 

dear, 
Of  Irish  swains  potato  is  the  cheer; 
Oat  for  their  feasts  the  Scottish  shepherds 

grind, 
Sweet  turnips  are  the  food  of  Blouzelind. 
While  she  loves  tiimips,  butter  I'll  despise, 
Nor  leeks,  nor  oatmeal,  nor  potato  prize." 

More   delicate   fancies  come  to  the 
front  "^hen  Lizette  Reese,  a  favorite 


COOKERY  IN  LITERATURE 


347 


poet  with  some  of  us,  breaks  her  loaf 
into  "the  Httle  bowl  of  white  and  blue  " ; 
or  when,  with  the  light  of  triumph  in 
her  eyes,  Lowell's  Eleanor  makes  maca- 
roons, a  truly  artistic  performance, 
set  to  crooned  canticles.  Even  more 
poetic  and  mystical  is  the  feast  which 
Keats,  in  the  person  of  Porphyro, 
spreads  in  golden  dishes  and  in  baskets 
bright  of  wreathed  silver,  for  his  lady 
on  St.  Agnes'  eve.     He  prepared 

"a  heap 
Of  candied  apple,    quince,  and   plum,   and 

gourd; 
With  jellies  soother  than  the  creamy  curd, 
And  lucent  syrops,  tinct  with  cinnamon; 
Manna  and  dates — and  spiced  dainties." 

Rather  more  practical  are  Brown- 
ing's explicit  directions  for  the  proper 
treatment  of  ortolans  in  Italy,  with  a 
strong  sage-leaf  separating  the  crisp, 
brown,  toasted  squares  of  bread  from 
the  luscious  lumps  of  birds.  From 
Browning  we  have  learned,  too,  that 

"nothing  stings 
Fried  liver  out  of  its  monotony 
Of  richness  like  a  root  of  fennel,  chopped 
Fine  with  the  parsley;  " 

and,  likewise,  that  a  porcupine  must 
be  roasted,  never  stewed,  and  a  rabbit 
jugged  with  sour-sweet  sauce  and  pine 
pips.  Some  of  these  descriptions  re- 
mind me  of  Heme's  conception  of 
heaven  as  a  place  where  the  geese  fly 
about,  ready  roasted,  with  ladles  of 
sweet  sauce  in  their  bills. 

An  interesting  collection  of  dinner 
invitations,  both  in  prose  and  verse, 
might  be  made,  which  would  show  the 
variously  significant  gastronomic  fan- 
cies of  famous  personages.  General 
Washington  invited  his  friends  to  take 
what  might  happen,  but  he  gave  them 
hints  of  what  in  the  common  course  of 
human  events  they  might  in  reason  ex- 
pect. "We  have  a  ham  (sometimes  a 
shoulder)  of  Bacon,"  he  wrote,  "to 
grace  the  head  of  the  Table;  a  piece  of 
roast  Beef  adorns  the  foot;  and  a  dish 
of  beans,  or  greens  (almost  impercepti- 
ble)  decorates  the  center.     When  the 


cook  has  a  mind  to  cut  a  figure,  we  have 
two  Beefsteak  pyes,  or  dishes  of  crabs, 
in  addition." 

When  Mrs.  Samuel  Harrison  Smith 
gave  a  small,  genteel  dinner  for  Miss 
Martineau,  she  disappointed  the  "ex- 
perienced and  fashionable  waiter"  she 
had  called  in  for  extra  assistance  by  re- 
fusing to  have  the  thirty  dishes  of 
meat  which  he  considered  desirable. 
She  carried  triumphantly  her  point  of 
having  only  eight  meat  courses,  but 
yielded  to  his  advice  on  game  and  des- 
serts, convinced  that  plum  pudding 
was  entirely  out  of  fashion,  and  nuts, 
raisins  and  figs  "quite  vulgar." 

When  Ben  Jonson  invited  a  friend 
to  supper,  he  promised  him  a  "sallad," 
either  of  olives  or  capers  or  something 
better,  to  usher  in  the  mutton,  that 
should  be  followed  by  "a  short-legged 
hen,"  with  lemons  and  wine  for 
sauce,  and  later  "digestive  cheese  and 
fruit,"  all  set  off  by  canary  and 
tobacco. 

With  all  these  memories  we  have 
yet  said  nothing  of  Thackeray's  bouil- 
labaisse,  or  of  his  "plain  leg  of  mutton,'* 
"smoking  and  tender  and  juicy,"  and 
nothing  of  the  Christmas  feasts  of 
Dickens,  rich  with  good  things  to  eat 
and  jolly  with  good  company.  Nor 
have  we  recalled  Sydney  Smith's  fa- 
mous recipe  for  a  salad,  or  his  praise 
of  the  rosy  salmon,  "by  smelts  encir- 
cled, bom  for  frying. ' '  We  have  passed 
over  Charles  Lamb's  glorification  of 
roast  pig,  finest  tribute  of  its  kind; 
and  Goldsmith's  memorable  haunch  of 
venison,  of  which  the  fat  was  so  white 
and  the  lean  was  so  ruddy  that  it  was 
a  pity  to  spoil  the  picture  by  eating  it ; 
and  Bums's  homage  to  "the  halesome 

--"-^>o.h.  chief  o'  Scotia's  food."  The 
uld  be  prolonged  indefi- 
y  seem  to  bring  these 
leaaeio  -  iterature  nearer  to  us  in 
homely,  familiar  ways;  and  they  shed  a 
certain  poetic  luster  over  the  useful 
kitchen  arts,  on  which  our  health  and 
our  happiness  so  largely  depend. 


m 

M 

K 

^m 

11 

m 

^:^m^..       r^ 


HOME  IDEAS 

AND 

ECONOMIES 


Contributions  to  this  department  will  be  gladly  received.     Accepted  items  will  be 
paid  for  at  reasonable  rates. 


Keeping  Sausage 

SAUSAGE  may  be  kept  indefi- 
nitely by  packing  it  in  lard. 
Make  it  into  cakes  by  pressing  it  into 
small  bread  pans,  making  each  cake 
contain  about  the  amount  you  would 
need  at  a  meal.  After  frying  each  cake 
slightly  on  all  sides  set  two  of  them  on 
end  in  a  small  jar,  which  has  previously 
been  well  heated,  and  pour  melted 
lard  around  them  until  the  jar  is  filled 
one  inch  above  the  tops  of  the  cakes. 
When  needed  for  use  set  the  crock  in  a 
warm  place  until  the  lard  is  melted, 
and  take  out  what  you  want.  By 
laying  the  other  cake  down  on  its  side 
very  little  more  lard  has  to  be  added. 
Of  course,  lard  so  used  can  be  utilized 
a  great  many  times.  c.  f.  s. 


*** 


French  Fried  Potatoes 

1HAVE  found,  in  cooking  French 
fried  potatoes,  that  it  does  not  take 
as  long,  that  they  are  a  prettier  brown, 
and  that  they  do  not  absorb  the  fat," 
if  you  remove  them  all  when  partly 
done  from  the  kettle  and  reheat,  then 
replace  the  potatoes  and  in  a  very  few 
minutes  they  are  done  to  a  golden 
brown.  m.  p.  l. 

Utility  Rugs 

FOR  each  sleeping  apartment  in 
the  house  you  may  have  made  a 
utility  rug  that  will  prove  a  great 
saving  of  both  time  and  labor.     The 


rug  is  made  of  denim  of  a  color  to  cor- 
respond with  the  room  furnishings, 
and  is  about  a  yard  square.  It  is 
hemmed  all  round,  and  has  a  short 
strip  of  the  material  securely  fastened 
at  the  center  of  each  side  of  the  rug. 

This  rug  is  easily  spread  upon  the 
floor,  before  the  washstand,  during 
ablutions,  and  before  the  dressing 
table  while  combing  the  hair  and  dress- 
ing ;  it  also  catches  all  threads  and  lint 
when  some  bit  of  repairing  or  sewing 
is  undertaken  in  the  room.  When  not 
in  use  it  is  quickly  grasped  by  the  four 
handles  and  slipped  over  a  closet  hook ; 
it  then  forms  a  bag  that  securely  holds 
whatever  may  have  been  placed  upon 
the  rug. 

For   Cleaning  Knobs 

Recently  I  saw  a  maid  use  a  clever 
and  simple  device  in  cleaning  the  brass 
knobs  on  some  old  mahogany. 

From  a  fair-sized,  oblong  sheet  of 
blotting  paper  she  cut  a  slit  from 
one  side  toward  the  center;  here  she 
cut  out  a  small  circle  just  large  enough 
to  fit  round  the  brass  where  it  came 
in  contact  with  the  wood.  She  then 
turned  back  the  bottom  of  the  sheet 
about  three  inches,  securing  it  at  the 
fold  with  two  paper  clips.  When  this 
was  slipped  round  the  knob,  it  entirely 
protected  the  furniture,  while  the  pro- 
jecting pocket  caught  any  bits  of  polish- 
ing powder  that  might  drop  from  the 
cloth.  The  work  was  accomplished 
much  quicker  than  when  great  care 
must  be  exercised  in  not  touching 
the  surrounding  surface,  and  the  blot- 


S48 


HOME  IDEAS  AND  ECONOMIES 


349 


ting  paper  is  so  soft  that  it  cannot 
injure  the  most  beautiful  surface.  If 
scratches  are  feared  from  the  chps,  a 
few  stitches  might  be  substituted. 

In  the  Upper  Hall 

In  our  upper  hall  we  have  a  most 
convenient  piece  of  furniture  —  half 
bed,  half  couch.  The  low,  broad 
frame  is  of  home  manufacture.  Over 
this  is  placed  the  best  part  of  an  old 
coil  bedspring  and  a  cut-over  mat- 
tress. Above  all  is  spread  a  large 
couch  cover  and  many  cushions. 

This  couch  is  as  comfortable  as  a 
bed,  and  is  of  the  utmost  convenience 
during  sickness.  As  all  the  family 
sleep  in  rooms  opening  from  the  hall, 
it  is  sufficiently  close  to  any  of  them. 
It  is  a  great  comfort  for  both  patient 
and  nurse ;  every  nervous  patient  knows 
how  trying  it  is  to  endure  the  immediate 
presence  of  a  second  person,  though  it 
is  a  comfort  to  know  some  one  is  pro- 
tectingly  near;  and  certainly  the  nurse 
—  who  is  usually  the  mother,  in  ordi- 
nary cases  —  finds  the  bed  in  the  open, 
airy  hall  a  great  advantage  over  the 
customary  Morris  chair  or  diminutive 
couch  in  the  patient's  room. 

With  Left-Over  Bread 

Pieces  of  bread  should  never  be  al- 
lowed to  accumulate.  But  how  may  they 
be  used,  particularly  in  a  small  family? 

If  not  too  stale,  cut  in  very  thin  slices, 
and  make  into  sandwiches  with  grated 
cheese.  Dip  into  a  mixture  of  egg 
and  milk  as  for  making  French  toast, 
and  fry  in  butter. 

Another  simple  dish,  in  which  cheese 
figures,  is  made  by  browning  some 
butter  in  a  saucepan,  and  then  pouring 
in  as  many  bread  crumbs  as  this  will 
absorb.  Butter  a  small  baking  dish, 
and  fill  with  alternate  layers  of  the 
crumbs  and  grated  cheese.  Pour  over 
this  an  egg  beaten  in  just  enough  milk 
to  cover  the  contents  of  the  dish,  and 
bake  half  an  hour. 

Bread  crumbs  are  a  very  good  sub- 


stitute in  escalloped  dishes  for  crackers, 
and  should  be  utilized  in  dressings  also. 

A  simple  and  deHcious  dish  of 
creamed  potatoes  for  the  home  table 
is  made  by  melting  some  butter  in  a 
saucepan,  placing  in  this  a  quantit}'-  of 
diced  potatoes,  seasoning  with  salt, 
and  sprinkling  over  them  a  handful  of 
stale  bread  crumbs.  Pour  over  this 
some  rich  milk,  cover  tight,  and 
let  simmer  slowly.  The  crumbs  will 
thicken  the  cream,  and  a  very  good 
dish  is  inexpensively  made. 

The  left-over  toast  makes  the  foimda- 
tion  for  an  excellent  pudding.  Crumb, 
and  soak  one  cup  in  two  cups  of  milk. 
Add  a  well-beaten  egg,  season  with  a 
pinch  of  salt,  and  sugar  to  taste;  add 
a  sliced  orange  and  bake  thirty  minutes. 
This  may  be  varied  with  apples,  nuts 
or  figs. 

A  delicious  apple  pudding  is  made  by 
buttering  crumbs  as  above  directed, 
and  placing  in  baking  dish,  in  alternate 
layers,  with  sHced,  tart  apples.  Serve 
with  thick,  sweetened  cream. 


Paring  Fruit 

In  preparing  such  fruit  as  bananas, 
oranges,  peaches  and  pears  for  table 
use,  always  use  a  silver  knife  instead 
of  the  customary  paring  knife  with 
steel  blade.  The  fruit  will  not  turn 
dark,  if  cut  with  the  silver  knife,  and  it 
presents  a  much  more  appetizing  ap- 
pearance. A.M.  A. 


WITH  the  advent  of  winter  and 
the  little  air-tight  heaters  in 
nearly  every  house  comes  the  problem 
of  keeping  the  stove  pipe  clean,  and  I 
have  found  that  if  a  bit  of  zinc  be 
thrown  on  the  live  coals  occasionally, 
there  will  be  no  more  extra  work  or 
discomfort  from  a  stopped-up  stove 
pipe.  J.  D.  D. 

The  crepe-paper  novelties  shown  in  this 
number  are  by  the  courtesy  of  the  Dennison 
Manufacturing:  Co.  —  Ed. 


npHIS  department  is  for  the  benefit  and  free  use  of  our  subscribers.     Questions  relating 


to   recipes,   and  those   pertaining  to    culinary  science    and    domestic    economics    in 


general,  will  be  cheerfully  answered  by  the  editor.  Communications  for  this  department 
must  reach  us  before  the  first  of  the  month  preceding  that  in  which  the  answers  are  expected 
to  appear.  In  letters  requesting  answers  by  mail,  please  enclose  addressed  and  stamped 
envelope.  For  menus  remit  $1.00.  Address  queries  to  Janet  M.  Hill,  editor,  Boston 
Cooking-School  Magazine,  372  Boylston  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


Query  1681.  —  "Recipe  for  Bran  Muffins 
or  Bread." 

Bran  Bread 

Boil  one  quart  of  wheat  bran  in 
plenty  of  water;  wash  in  a  fine  sieve 
with  hot  water  until  the  water  runs 
through  clear  (when  the  starch  is 
largely  washed  out).  Squeeze  in  a 
cloth;  spread  thinly  on  an  agate  dish 
and  let  dry  in  a  slow  oven.  Grind  fine 
in  a  niill  and  sift  by  brushing  through 
a  fine  sieve.  Take  three  ounces  of  the 
bran  powder,  three  fresh  eggs,  well 
beaten,  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter  and 
one  cup  of  milk.  Melt  the  butter  in 
part  of  the  milk,  add  the  rest  of  the 
milk  to  the  eggs  and  combine  the  two; 
stir  in  the  bran.  Bake  in  thin  cakes  in 
a  rather  quick  oven  about  half  an  hour. 


Query  1682.  —  "  Recipe  for  Aviation  Sand- 
wiches." 

Aviation  Sandwiches,  Club  Style 
For  one  service  have  ready  four 
triangular  pieces  of  toasted  bread, 
cooled  and  spread  with  mayonnaise 
dressing;  cover  two  of  these  with 
lettuce,  on  the  lettuce  (for  each  sand- 
wich) dispose  a  carefully  cooked 
chicken  wing,  above  the  wing  set  a 
fresh-broiled  slice  of  bacon,  above 
the  bacon  a  triangle  of  toast  spread 
with  mayonnaise.  Above  or  beside 
each    sandwich    set    a    heart    leaf    of 


lettuce  containing  a  teaspoonful  of 
mayonnaise.  Cook  the  chicken  wings, 
on  a  bed  of  sliced  onion,  carrot  and 
parsley,  in  a  covered  casserole,  basting 
frequently  with  melted  butter.  Do 
not  add  broth,  and  remove  from  the 
casserole  as  soon  as  tender.  The  fat 
with  the  vegetables  gives  an  entirely 
different  flavor  than  that  secured  with 
broth. 


Query  1683.  —  "Recipe  for  Lamb  Chops 
en  Casserole." 

Lamb  Chops  en  Casserole 

Use  chops  from  the  neck  end,  and 
do  not  remove  the  meat  from  the 
bones  as  in  French  chops.  Heat  but- 
ter or  bacon  fat  in  the  frying  pan  and  in 
it  brown  the  chops,  first  on  one  side 
and  then  on  the  other.  In  the  mean 
time  cook  a  sliced  onion  or  two  (for 
six  chops)  in  a  Httle  fat  without  color- 
ing the  sHces.  Turn  the  vegetables 
into  a  casserole,  add  the  chops,  salt 
and  pepper  to  season  and  enough  white, 
well-seasoned  broth  to  cover.  Heat 
the  whole  to  the  boiling  point,  cover 
and  set  to  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
twenty  minutes.  Cut  six  small  po- 
tatoes in  slices,  cover  with  cold  water 
and  let  heat  quickly  to  the  boiling 
point;  drain,  rinse  in  cold  water  and 
add  to  the  casserole,  with  a  little  salt 
and    pepper.     Continue    the    cooking 


350 


Menus  for  Little  Dinners  and  Luncheons  in  March 


i*  j^  i* 


Lobster    or    Fresh    Mushroom    Cocktail 
Brown    Bread    Sandwiches 

Tomato    Bouillon 

Fried  Fillets  of  Fish  (breaded)   Sauce  Tartare 

Parker    House    Rolls 

Boned    Loin    of    Lamb.    Roasted 

Mint-Jelly   or   Sauce 

Scalloped   Potatoes 

Pineapple  Fritters,  Claret  or  Jelly  Sauce 

Lettuce-and-Asparagus    Cream 
French    Dressing 

Coupes    \^enus 
Coffee 


11 


Eggs    Muscovite 

Consomme    with    Asparagus    Tips    and 
Carrots    Julienne 

Oyster    Croquettes,    Sauce    Tartare 
Lady    Finger    Rolls 

Larded    Beef    Tenderloin 

Brown    Mushroom    Sauce,    flashed    Potato 

Cress    Salad 

Golden    Parfait    with    French    Fruit 
Coffee 


III 
Consomme    with    Macaroni    Rings 

Ribs    of    Beef,    Roasted,     Browi:    Sauce 

Horseradish 

Cress-and-Radish    Salad 

Scalloped   Potatoes 

Asparagus,    Bernaise    Sauce 

Orange    Bomle    Glace 
Coffee 


LUXCHEOX    I 

Grape  fruit-and-Pineapple    Cocktail 
Cream    of    Spinach    Soup 

Lamb    Chops.    Maintenon     Style 
Peas   and    Carrots 

Cream    Cheese-and-Pimento    Salad 
Clover    Leaf    Biscuit 

Sponge    Cake 
Cocoa   with  Whipped   Cream 


11    (Lextex) 

Grapefruit  with   Bar-le-duc   Preserves 

Cream    of    Oyster    Soup  —  Olives.    Radishes 

•      Cheese    Souffle 
Lettuce.    French    Dressing 
Salad   Rolls    (yeast) 

Frozen    Apricots 

Macaroons 

Coft'ee 


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The 
Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


Vol.  XV 


MARCH,  1911 


No.  8 


Scallop  Fishing  from  Maine  to  Massachusetts 

By  Mary  H.   Xorthend 


WHILE  the  scallop  industry  is 
no  new  venture,  yet  it  has, 
within  the  last  few  years,  de- 
veloped so  many  interesting  features, 
that  it  is  now  attracting  the  attention  of 
not  only  the  Fish  and  Game  Commis- 
sioners, but  of  scientific  men  as  well. 
The  reason  for  this  is  partly  on  account 
of  the  dying  out  of  old  beds,  and  the 
opening  up  of  new  ones,  making  it  a 
problem  to  be  solved  as  to  what  the  rea- 
son for  the  change  may  be.  A  few  years 
ago  it  was  possible  for  hundreds  of 
thousands  of  bushels  of  this  most  de- 
licious bivalve  to  be  found  all  along  the 
north  and  south  shores  of  Massachusetts, 
where  to-day  not  a  vestige  remains. 
There  are,  of  course,  spots  all  along  the 
shores  where  they  are  to  be  found  in 
larger  or  smaller  quantities.  Principal 
among  these  is  the  station  at  Nantucket, 
a  little  seagirt  isle,  thirty  miles  from  the 
mainland,  which  furnishes,  during  the 
open  season,  thousands  of  dollars'  worth 
of  scallops  for  New  York,  Boston  and 
other  markets. 

Chatham  has  scallop  beds,  as  has  New 


THE  SCALLOP  FLEET 

Bedford,  Cotuit,  Hyannis,  and  Edgar- 
town.  Within  the  last  few  years  a  large 
bed  has  been  discovered  at  Bass  River 
off  Yarmouth,  consisting  of  twenty 
acres,  which  yield  an  average  of  six 
thousand  bushels  annually. 

On  the  Maine  coast,  between  Penob- 
scot Bay  and  Mount  Desert  Island,  are 
to  be  found  large  scallops  measuring 
across  their  shells  from  eight  to  nine 
inches,  that  is,  from  side  to  side.  These 
are  of  coarser  fibre  than  are  the  species 


355 


356 


THE    P.OSTOX    COOKING-SCHOOr.    MAGAZINE 


found  on  the  south  shore  of  Cape  Cod, 
and  are  not  as  favorite  with  purchasers, 
although    the    great    buccinator    muscle. 


A   STREET   IN    NANTUCKET 

which  is  the  only  portion  that  is  eaten, 
is  of  rich  flavor  and  very  juicy,  in  spite 
of  the  larger  grain  of  the  eye. 

This,  however,  is  not  an  industry 
regularly  followed  by  the  majority  of 
Maine  fishermen.  It  is  carried  on  for 
the  most  part  in  leisure  moments.  The 
boats  used  are  very  fast,  and  they  are 
able  to  make  a  good  profit  out  of  this 
industry,  as  statistics  show. 

A  feature  of  this  industry  is  that  there 
is  no  loss  connected  with  it.  While  the 
eyes,  the  only  edible  part,  are  shipped  to 
suitable  markets,  the  rims  find  a  ready 
sale  at  home,  where  they  bring  twenty- 
five  cents  per  bucket,  and  are  used  for 
codfish  bait.  The  shells,  when  cleaned, 
are  sold  for  a  variety  of  purposes.  They 
have  a  lining  of  iridescent  mother  of 
pearl,  which  gives  them  a  money  value 
with  button  manufacturers.  Farmers 
and  dairymen  are  always  glad  to  pur- 
chase them  for  skimming  milk,  and  they 
are  also  used  for  garden  borders.  Then, 
too,  the  Boston  market,  which  is  always 
on  the  lookout  for  novelties,  has  con- 
ceived the  idea  of  fashioning  them  into 
pin-cushion  covers,  and  fancy  souvenirs, 
to  be  sold  at  seashore  resorts.  So  great 
has  become  the  demand,  that  one  Boston 


firm  gave  an  order  for  five  hundred 
barrels !  This  is  the  boys'  part  of  the 
earnings,  for  to  them  is  alloted  the  sale 
of  the  shells. 

Within  the  last  few  years  the  scallop 
has  found  another  market,  and  has  come 
into  favor  among  the  exclusive  set  as  a 
scallop  cocktail.  This  differs  from  the 
clam  and  oyster  cocktail,  as,  unlike  its 
fellow  mates,  it  is  baked ;  but  like  them, 
it  is  served  with  tabasco  and  tomato  cat- 
sup in   the  dressing. 

That  scallop  fishing  is  of  sufficient  in- 
terest to  warrant  the  outlay  of  time  and 
money  in  safeguarding  it,  is  undeniable, 
for  while  the  catch  along  the  Maine 
shore  is  merely  off-time  work,  to  the 
Nantucket  fishermen  it  is  often  their 
chief  source  of  income,  and  the  open 
season,  which  lasts  from  the  first  of 
November  to  first  of  May,  is  their  har- 
vest time.  The  scallop  industry  to 
Massachusetts  alone  yields  a  revenue  of 
from  $90,000  to  $100,000  annually.  This 
is  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  the  area  is 
limited,  as  the  general  northern  range 
of  the  shallow-water  scallop  extends  no 
further  than  Plymouth,  although  they 
have  been  found  as  far  south  as  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico. 


ON  A   TRIP 


The  first  of  November  sees  an  un- 
wonted activity  along  the  coast  of  Nan- 
tucket and  the  south  shore  of  the  Cape 


SCALLOP    FISHING 


357 


Catboats  which  have  been  hauled  upon 
the  beach  are  made  sea-worthy,  sails  are 
mended,  dredges  are  examined  and  re- 
paired, and  every  possible  preparation  is 


STARTIX( 


made  for  the  opening  of  the  scallop  sea- 
son. 

Even  the  wives  and  daughters  are  in- 
terested, and  many  of  them  gather  in 
groups  along  the  shore,  to  watch  the 
scallop  fleet  make  its  initial  trip  of  the 
season.  The  fishermen,  clad  in  oilskins, 
laugh  and  talk  and  exchange  jokes  with 
each  new-comer,  as  they  conclude  their 
preparations.  Finally,  when  all  is  ready, 
they  sail  away,  and  the  groups  of  women 
and  children  scatter,  to  resume  their 
household  duties. 

Some  two  hundred  men,  in  Nantucket 
alone,  are  engaged  in  this  business.  The 
boats  start  out  at  about  nine  o'clock  in 
the  morning.  The  scallop  dredges  are 
drawn  along  the  bottom,  and  drawn  up 
when  they  are  full.  Their  contents  are 
dumped  upon  the  ''cuUing-board,"  and 
queer  indeed  are  some  of  the  denizens 
of  the  briny  deep  that  visit  the  upper 
air  by  way  of  the  scallop-dredge. 

In  the  work  of  culling,  the  scallops 
that  appear  to  be  of  suitable  size  are 
rapidly  separated  from  those  undoubt- 
edly too  small,  and  from  the  foreign  sub- 
stances picked  up  in  the  dredge,  all  of 
which   are   swept   back   overboard.      No 


accurate  sorting  of  the  bivalves  is  at- 
tempted at  this  time,  as  that  work  must 
be  done  under  the  eye  of  the  inspector. 

Each  man  pays  a  license  fee.  and  these 
fees  pay  the  inspector.  Each  fisher  is 
allowed  to  dredge  four  bushels  of  scal- 
lops in  one  day,  if  he  is  alone.  When 
two  men  occupy  the  same  boat,  they  may 
take  four  bushels  apiece.  No  boat  is 
allowed  to  bring  in  more  than  eight 
bushels,  however  large  her  crew ;  and  if 
the  boat  contains  several  men,  as  is  often 
the  case,  they  must  divide  the  eight 
bushels  among  them. 

When  a  sufficient  quantity  has  been 
dredged,  the  boats  return  to  the  shore. 
They  usually  get  in  soon  after  one 
o'clock.  x-\t  the  wharf,  they  are  met  by 
the  inspector,  and  the  measuring  is  done 
in  his  presence.  There  is  a  good  deal  of 
sly  banter,  at  his  expense.  One  fisher- 
man calls  jokingly  to  another,  "How 
many's  ye  git.  Bill?"  Back  comes  the 
answer,  ''Just  about  ten  bushel  o'  little 
uns,  not  more'n  an  inch  'n'  a  half  long!" 
These  dialogues  never  fail  to  call  forth 
roars  of  laughter  from  the  bystanders ; 
and  the  inspector,  knowing  well  his 
crowd,  usually  laughs  with  the  rest. 


LAXDIXG  A   DAY'S   HAUL 

From  the  wharf,  the  catch  is  taken  to 
some  neighboring  shanty,  and  there  it  is 
prepared  for  the  market.  Here  the  final 
sorting  takes  place.    The  two-inch  stand- 


358 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


TAKING   IN    THE   HAUL 

ard  is  rigidly  applied,  and  all  the  speci- 
mens that  fall  short  are  tossed  back  alive 
into  the  sea. 

Those  of  legal  size  are  then  opened, 
by  means  of  an  ordinary  table  knife, 
whose  blade  has  been  broken  off  and  so 
rounded  that  it  measures  about  two 
inches  in  length. 

The  shell  is  held,  dark  side  up,  with 
the  hinge  turned  away  from  the  work- 
man. The  knife  is  inserted  close  to  the 
hinge,  as  in  opening  oysters.  Prying 
back  the  upper  shell  leaves  the  "eyes" 
exposed  upon  the  right  of  the  hinge. 
The  "rim"  is  cleaned  out,  by  a  quick 
movement  of  the  knife,  the  muscle  is 
cut,  and  the  scallop  dipped  into  a  pail. 
The  "rims"  are  a  mere  by-product,  and 
are  sold  as  cod  bait. 


1 

^/ 

^x^ 

i^SRB 

'i-'-'-A 

^^likl^9 

m  r    ^:^M 

M^p~^^^^3H 

Si^^'-'^^B 

^^g 

^ 

nl 

The  muscle  is  the  only  part  retained, 
and  for  shipment,  the  marketable  scal- 
lops are  put  up  in  kegs  or  "packets," 
each  of  which  holds  about  seven  gallons. 
Four  bushels  of  shells  will  yield  four 
gallons  of  scallops  besides  a  bucket  of 
rims.  The  four  gallons  of  solid  scallops 
are  placed  in  the  packet,  and  the  keg  is 
then  filled  up  with  water.  By  the  time 
that  the  shipment  reaches  New  York, 
which  is  the  principal  market  for  the 
delicacy,  the  four  gallons  of  scallops 
have  absorbed  the  three  gallons  of  water, 
and  have  so  swelled  in  consequence  that 
the  kegs  seem  to  be  filled  solid  with 
scallops. 

The  fishermen  tell  with  great  glee  of 


^ 

^\ 

^ 

.'^^^^^^i^tfty^.'K    "2S 

^n 

^^^■Hi^ta^^^a^d 

INSPECTOR  ON    DUTY 


A  MODERN   KITCHEN-MIDDEN 

one  of  their  number  who  believed  it  to 
be  wrong  to  "water  stock"  in  this 
fashion,  and  determined  to  be  honest  at 
all  hazards,  and  to  send  seven  gallons 
of  scallops  to  the  packet.  He  did,  and  in 
a  few  days  received,  from  New  York,  a 
letter  instructing  him  to  send  no  more 
of  those  little  scallops,  as  there  was  no 
sale  for  them !  He  ruefully  declared 
that  if  folks  didn't  want  honest  measure, 
he  guessed  that  he  should  have  to  please 
them ;  and  thereafter,  he  shipped  three 
gallons  of  water  to  the  packet! 

Another  old  fisherman,  when  asked 
how  he  made  his  living,  replied,  "Waal, 
I   generally   cal'late  to  make   it   by  two 


LINDA'S    DUAL    PERSONALITY 


359 


bushels  of  scallops  to  one  of  water!" 
Despite  the  old  man's  quaint  reply,  the 
fact  remains  that  these  fishermen  make 
for  themselves  a  comfortable  living, 
during  the  six-months'  scallop  season. 
In  Nantucket  alone — a  town  of  some 
three  thousand  inhabitants — more  than 
fifty  thousand  dollars  was  realized  by 
the  phenomenal  scallop  season  of  a  few 
years    ago.      The    usual    prices    and    an 


ordinary  yield  make  the  returns  fall  far 
below  this  figure,  while  still  presenting 
a  total  worthy  of  consideration. 

The  packets  of  scallops  commonly  sell 
to  the  dealers  at  a  dollar  and  a  half  per 
gallon,  sometimes  falling  as  low  as  a 
dollar.  The  bivalve  is  in  high  favor  as 
a  toothsome  viand  among  New  York's 
"smart  set"  and  along  the  "Great  White 
W'av." 


CREAMED   FISH   IN   SCALLOP  SHELLS 


Linda's   Dual  Personality 

By  Josephine  Page  Wright 


MRS.  BELINDA  SMALL  was 
scrubbing  her  dining  room  and 
worrying  about  her  only  daugh- 
ter. When,  therefore,  she  caught  sight 
of  that  daughter's  long  legs  dangling 
from  the  arm  of  an  easy  chair  in  the 
room  beyond,  she  voiced  her  anxiety  in 
a  shrill  query. 

"Linda,  are  you  readin'  again?" 

'T  am,  mother." 

"Linda,  what  are  you  readin'?" 

"Hudson." 

"Hudson  what?"  persisted  the  mother 
in  the  vague  hope  that  it  might  be  Hud- 
son river. 

"Hudson,"  explained  the  young  reader. 


"is  the  name  of  the  man  who  wrote  the 
book." 

'Ts  it  a  story  telHng  book?" 

"Truth,  mother,  is  stranger  than 
fiction." 

Belinda  Small  recognized  this  as  an 
evasion  but  could  not  grasp  the  signifi- 
cance of  it.  She  rose  painfully  from  her 
cramped  position  beside  the  water  pail 
and  went  to  her  daughter's  side.  Linda 
obediently  handed  over  the  book  for  the 
inspection  of  her  mother,  who  thumbed 
the  pages  of  the  volume  on  psychic 
phenomena  gingerly. 

"It  doesn't  look  very  interesting  to 
me,"  was  her  only  comment. 


360 


THE    BOSTON    COOKIXG-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


'Tt  probably  wouldn't  be  interesting  to 
you,"  agreed  her  daughter. 

"'Tisn't  about  spiritualism,  is  it?'' 
suspiciously. 

"I  am  not  interested  in  spiritualism, 
whatever  may  be  meant  by  that.  It  is 
not  scientific." 

This  denial  relieved  the  situation  some- 
what, but  ^Irs.  Small  made  one  more 
effort  to  woo  her  daughter  from  false 
gods. 

"Why  don't  you  go  over  to  see 
^lamie?" 

"Mamie,''  scorned  the  young  girl.  "I 
am  very  sure,  mother,  you  do  wrong  to 
urge  that  friendship  upon  me.  ^lamie  is 
by  no  means  my  intellectual  equal.  She 
does  not  respond  to  my  deeper  feelings ; 
she  has  no  soul  life,  no  aspirations.  Her 
mother  tells  me  that  at  times  she  takes 
delight  in  dressing  and  undressing  her 
old  dolls." 

^Irs.  Small,  arms  akimbo,  regarded  her 
daughter  intently. 

*T'm  thinking,"  she  mused  aloud,  'T'm 
thinking  that  for  a  girl  of  fifteen  dolls 
is  a  safer  plaything  that  psycholism." 

For  this  Linda  had  no  answer.  She 
took  the  offending  volume  out  of  sight 
and  herself  beyond  hearing.  Belinda 
resumed  her  homely  task. 

The  next  morning  the  busy  mother 
dallied  over  the  belated  breakfast  in  the 
hope  that  Linda  might  be  in  her  place 
at  the  accustomed  hour.  To  breakfast 
with  Linda  brightened  the  whole  day 
for  Linda's  mother. 

Linda,  however,  not  unlike  man}-  girls 
of  sixteen  had  evolved  from  much  read- 
ing of  philosophy  and  inherent  selfish- 
ness a  theory  that  repose  of  soul  is 
synonymous  with  indolence  of  body.  In 
consequence,  her  over-burdened  mother 
opened  the  house  every  morning,  drew 
the  water,  uncovered  the  fires  and  pre- 
pared the  bacon  and  eggs,  while  the  be- 
loved daughter  cultivated  the  spiritual 
graces  by  stretching  her  shapely  limbs 
and  digging  her  pretty  head  deeper  into 
the  soft  pillows. 


On  this  particular  morning,  however, 
even  Mrs.  Small's  indulgent  nature  was 
tried  beyond  limit,  and  a  sharp  reprim- 
and was  on  the  woman's  lips  when  it  was 
stricken  therefrom  by  an  apparition  at 
the  foot  of  the  back  stairway. 

"Linda,"  gasped  Mrs.  Small. 

''Linda?  Did  you  say  Linda?" 
politely  inquired  the  exquisite  young 
woman  in  the  doorway.  'T  am  not 
Linda,  mother.  It  is  possible  you  have 
forgotten  your  own  daughter  Sarah?'' 

The  speaker  advanced  to  the  kitchen 
table  and  gazed  down  upon  Belinda  with 
sweet  eyes.  She  was  dressed  entirely 
in  white.  Her  heavy  blond  hair  was 
piled  high  on  her  head  and  intertwined 
with  pearl  colored  beads.  A  long  white 
sash  was  draped  about  the  modern 
gown,  giving  it  the  semblance  of  a  Greek 
robe.  \\'hite  stockings  and  strap  sandals 
completed  the  costume. 

"Of  all  the  crazy  performances — " 
began  the  mother,  "of  all  the  crazy  per- 
formances— ■' 

The  slice  of  bacon  she  had  just  speared 
was  hastily  returned  to  the  platter. 

"Linda  Small,  go  right  upstairs  and 
put  on  your  school  dress." 

The  new  comer  seated  herself  at  the 
table  quietly.  "School?  A\'hat  need 
have  I  of  school?  I  have  gone  to  the 
school  of  the  ages ;  mine  is  the  wisdom 
of  the  ages.    Pass  the  bacon,  please-" 

Mrs.  Small,  thoroughly  frightened, 
rose  from  her  place  and  grasping  the 
girl  by  the  shoulder  shook  her  gently. 

"Do  you  mean  to  say  that  you  are  not 
going  to  school  ?  \\'hat  do  you  mean  by 
parading  around  here  at  eight  o'clock  in 
the  morning  like  a  fancy  dress  ball  and 
pretendin'  you're  Sarah  something  or 
other?" 

Sarah  disengaged  herself  gently.  "Do 
not  be  so  impulsive,  mother.  You  should 
learn  poise.  I  have  been  sent  to  you  to 
instruct  you.  I  am  a  new  being  created 
in  the  subliminal  of  that  daughter  whom 
you  call  Linda." 

Sarah  thereupon  proceeded  to  devour 


LINDA'S    DUAL    PERSOXALITY 


361 


her  bacon  and  eggs,  and  Mrs.  Small, 
trembling  and  distressed,  busied  herself 
about  the  morning  household  tasks. 
Never  for  a  moment,  however,  did  she 
permit  her  child  to  leave  her  sight.  That 
Linda  had  lost  her  mind  because  of  much 
study  and  meddling  with  witchcraft,  she 
never  for  a  moment  doubted. 

The  girl  in  the  meantime  seemed  to  be 
enjoying  herself  immensely.  She  re-ar- 
ranged the  draperies,  she  gathered 
flowers  in  the  garden,  under  the  curious 
gaze  of  the  neighbors,  and  made  fes- 
toons for  the  shabby  parlor.  Mrs. 
Small  felt  that  duty  pointed  to  the  office 
of  a  physician,  but  poor  as  she  was  and 
humble  as  she  was,  she  had  a  dread  of 
publicity  that  too  few  of  her  superiors 
possess.  She  would  give  Linda  twenty- 
four  hours,  at  least,  to  come  to  her  senses. 
Sleep  would  do  miracles,  perhaps  a  good 
night's  rest  would  lift  the  enchantment 
from  her  changeling. 

This  half  defined  hope  seemed  realized. 
Linda  appeared  at  the  breakfast  table 
next  morning  in  her  rusty  brown  school 
dress  and  her  hair  in  two  tight  braids 
down  her  back. 

"Are  you  going  to  school  this  morn- 


ing 


asked    the    mother,    to    remove   a 


lingering  doubt. 

"\\'hy  not?"  sweetly. 

"You  didn't  feel  some  like  it  yester- 
day."  faltered  the  mother. 

Linda  opened  her  eyes  in  pretty  be- 
wilderment. **Oh,  I  certainly  went  to 
school  yesterday,"  she  insisted. 

Belinda  leaned  forward  and  searched 
her  daughter's  face.  "Don't — don't  you 
remember  Sarah  ^"  she  asked  in  a  scared 
whisper. 

Linda  shook  her  head.     "Sarah  who?" 

Mrs.  Small  was  broken.  She  felt  her 
worst  fears  realized.  After  a  momen- 
tary hesitation,  however,  she  decided  to 
tell  the  horrible  truth  to  her  afflicted 
child.  Linda,  very  much  to  her  mother's 
surprise,  received  the  news  philosophi- 
cally. 

"Of  course,  I  suppose  I  shouldn't  go 


to  school  for  a  time.  But  you  mustn't 
worry  about  it.  It's  only  another  case 
of  dual  personality." 

She  spoke  as  though  dual  personality 
was  something  like  chicken  pox  or 
measles.  Her  disappointment  over  her 
inability  to  attend  school  was  not  keen. 
She  sang  about  the  house,  removed  the 
withering  festoons,  read  the  current 
magazines,  and  spent  an  exciting  hour 
over  a  new  picture  puzzle.  Her  mother's 
anxiety  she  seemed  not  to  see.  After 
washing  the  supper  dishes,  an  innovation 
that  disturbed  her  mother,  she  ap- 
proached the  unpleasant  subject  for  the- 
first  time  voluntarily. 

"^lother.  you  mustn't  be  surprised  or* 
alarmed  if  Sarah  should  return  to-mor- 
rom.     She  is  apt  to  come  after  a  heavy 
sleep  and  I  am  very  weary.     I  have  had 
an  exhausting  day." 

"Lord."  groaned  the  mother.  "I  felt 
it,  I  just  feh  it." 

The  re-appearance  of  Sarah  confirmed 
the  distracted  mother's  resolve  to  consult 
old  Dr.  Struthers.  Here  was  a  gentle- 
man of  the  old  school,  a  man  who  could' 
be  trusted  with  the  disgraceful  secret.. 
To  leave  Sarah,  however,  was  a  risk ;  to- 
tote  her  through  the  streets  of  the 
gossipy  town  was  out  of  the  question. 

Mrs.  Small  managed  to  scribble  a  con- 
fusing and  alarming  message  and  to 
smuggle  it  to  the  postman.  Late  the 
same  afternoon  Dr.  Struthers  responded 
in  person,  with  a  frame  of  mind  more 
curious  than  that  which  he  carried  to 
most  of  his  patients.  The  interesting 
case  opened  the  door. 

"Good  afternoon,  my  dear  Linda,'' 
beamed  the  physician. 

The  young  Greek  drew  herself  to  her 
full  height.  'T  beg  your  pardon,  sir. 
did  you  mistake  me  for  someone  of  the 
name  of  Linda  ?     I  am  Sarah." 

Dr.  Struthers  looked  at  her  over  the 
rim  of  his  glasses.  "Of  course,  to  be 
sure,  my  dear,  you  are  Sarah.  \'ery 
stupid  of  me.     Is  Mrs.  Small  about?'' 

Mrs.  Small  came  forward,  embarassed 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


and  apologetic.  Sarah,  with  a  look  that 
was  meant  to  express  her  extreme  in- 
difference, gathered  her  robes  about  her 
and  swept  majestically  from  the  room. 
Dr.  Struthers  looked  after  the  retreating 
figure  with  unconcealed  interest.  He 
noted,  but  made  no  comment  upon  the 
fact,  that  a  whisp  of  white  peeped  sug- 
gestively from  the  threshold  of  the  door 
ihrough  which  Sarah  had  left  the  room. 

"Oh,  doctor  there's  two  of  her!  Yes- 
terday she  was  Linda  and  to-day  she's 
Sarah.  To-morrow  she'll  be  Linda  again 
and  betwixt  the  two  of  'em  they're  driv- 
ing me  insane,"  moaned  Mrs.  Small. 

"Yes — yes.  Very  trying,  Mrs.  Small. 
These  cases  are  unusual  and  very  try- 
ing. But  we  shall  see  what  can  be  done," 
■soothed  Dr.  Struthers. 

As  Mrs.  Small  told  her  tearful  tale, 
her  physician  stood  by  the  little  center 
table  fingering  the  books  thereon  and  in- 
cidently  watching  that  small  patch  of 
white  drapery. 

"And  do  you  know  what  is  the  matter 
with  my  child?"  besought  the  anxious 
mother  at  the  end  of  the  recital. 

"H'm,  yes.  It  appears  to  be  a  case  of 
dual  personality." 

"And  have  you  ever  cured  one  like  it, 
doctor?" 

"Well — no.  To  be  frank  I  have  never 
seen  a  case.  I  have  read  of  them."  Dr. 
Struthers  thumped  the  table. 

"But  there's  a  cure  for  them?  Tell 
me  that,  Dr.  Struthers." 

The  good  man  nodded.  "The  ordin- 
ary method  of  cure  is  an  elaborate  pro- 
cess requiring  great  patience.  It  some- 
times extends  over  a  period  of  months 
or  years." 

IMrs.  Small  put  her  face  into  her  red 
hands  and  wailed. 

"Wait,  wait,  my  dear.  I  was  about  to 
explain  that  I  have  a  theory.  I  can 
safely  promise  you  that  by  my  method 
we  can,  in  this  case,  effect  a  cure  in  a 
marvelously  short  time."     . 

"To-day?"  eagerly. 

"Well — not  to-day.    Let  me  make  my- 


self clearer.  Serious  cases  require 
severe  treatment.  We  must  resort  to 
surgery." 

The  white  patch  grew  larger., 

"There  is  pressure  upon  the  brain. 
We  physicians  of  the  old  school  recog- 
nize no  ailment  as  purely  psychic.  It 
must  have  some  cause  in  the  material 
organism.  Let  us  suppose,  in  the  case  of 
your  daughter,  that  a  piece  of  skull  is 
pressing  upon  the  brain.  I  cut  away  the 
flesh,  I  lift  the  bone—" 

"Must  she  go  to  a  hospital?" 

Dr.  Struthers  shrugged  his  shoulders. 
"Not  of  necessity.  The  operation  is 
painful  but  not  dangerous." 

"Painful?  Can't  you  give  her  some- 
thing so  she  won't  know?" 

"No  anaesthetic  in  this  case,  Airs. 
Small.  In  fact  the  intensity  of  her 
suffering  will  produce  a  change  in 
psychic  conditions  corresponding  to  the 
physical  change  produced  by  the  opera- 
tion." 

"Oh,  my  poor  baby,"  sobbed  the 
mother.  "To-morrow,  doctor,  to-mor- 
row?" 

"Let  me  see.  Linda  will  be  here  to- 
morrow," mused  the  physician.  "No,  I 
should  prefer  to  operate  on  Sarah.  Sup- 
pose you  send  for  me  the  next  time 
Sarah  comes." 

Mrs.  Small  wdped  her  eyes  and  fol- 
lowed her  adviser  to  the  door.  "And 
you  promise  to  cure  her?  Do  say  so 
again." 

The  physician  looked  with  compassion 
upon  the  woman. 

"Perhaps,  Mrs.  Small,  perhaps  Sarah 
may  never  come  back,"  he  consoled. 

This  faint  spark  of  hope  Belinda  fed 
from  her  own  great  optimism.  It  made 
the  night  less  horrible,  it  kindled  anew 
with  the  first  light  of  dawn.  She  was 
able  to  meet  her  daughter  at  the  break- 
fast table  with  some  degree  of  com- 
posure. 

Linda  appeared  at  the  usual  hour.  She 
wore  her  school  blouse  and  her  hair  was 
neatly    braided.       She    glanced    at    her 


COMMON    SENSE 


363 


mother  timidly,  almost  fearfully. 

"^Mother,"  she  began,  "mother,  I  feel 
that  we  have  won.  Sarah  has  gone  for- 
ever,    ^ly  personalities  have  merged." 

"Do  you  mean  you've  cured  yourself?" 
demanded  the  mother. 

Linda  assented  between  gulps  of 
coffee.  After  breakfast  she  began  to 
gather  her  school  books.  She  stood  long 
before  the  mirror  at  the  kitchen  sink, 
adjusting  her  hair  beneath  the  coquettish 
cap.  She  kissed  her  mother  good-bye 
affectionately.  At  the  doorway  she 
paused. 

"I'm  going  to  stop  for  Mamie,"  she 
announced. 


Mrs.  Small  watched  her  daughter's 
retreating  figure  until  it  vanished  around 
the  corner.  In  the  dining  room  the 
water  pail  and  scrub  brush  were  waiting 
her  coming.  She  dipped  the  brush  into 
the  water. 

Then  to  her,  the  ignorant,  to  her,  the 
skeptical,  was  given  the  gift  of  clair- 
voyance. Her  full  lips  puckered  into  a 
low  whistle  of  surprise  and  then  ex- 
panded into  a  joyous  grin, 

"But  I  wish — I  almost  wish  I  had 
licked  Sarah  just  once  for  luck." 

Thereupon  she  began  to  scrub  the 
dining  room. 


Common  Sense 


(The   Best   Asset    for   Any   Business.) 

By  Mrs.  Charles  Xorman 


DOUGLAS  JERROLD  once  said 
that  he  knew  a  man  with  twenty- 
four  languages,  who  had  not  an 
idea  in  any  of  them.  Mr.  Jerrold  is  not 
the  only  person  who  has  seen  learned 
fools.  It  is  strange,  but  no  less  true, 
that  with  all  our  advancement  in  educa- 
tion, there  has  been  a  decline  in  com- 
mon sense.  It  is  strange  but  no  less  true, 
that  things  are  often  called  precisely 
what  they  are  not,  and  that  what  we 
have  nam.ed  common  sense  is  the  rarest 
of  gifts — common  only  in  the  sense  that 
it  is  commonly  needed. 

Is  it  because  modern  life  has  done  so 
much  for  us  that  our  faculties  have  re- 
mained unexercised  and  our  ordinary 
senses  have  become  extinct?  Men  and 
women  have  two  eyes  apiece,  yet  we  are 
surprised  when  we  meet  a  person  who 
sees.  Our  three  senses  combined — 
sight,  hearing,  and  touch,  do  not  give  us 
half  the  perceptive  power  of  the  blind, 
deaf-mute.    Helen    Keller.      A\'e    delude 


ourselves  into  thinking  that  we  see  some- 
thing; but  the  object  usually  lies  dim  in 
the  distance.  It  is  seldom  near  at  hand 
so  that  we  are  certain  of  it,  so  that  we 
can  put  our  knowledge  of  it  into  use; 
and  since  it  is  only  the  present  moment 
that  is  available,  all  our  vision  goes  for 
naught. 

One  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago 
Jethro  Tull  complained  that  men  were 
unwilling  to  devote  their  brains  to  the 
study  of  agriculture.  He  said  in  sub- 
stance: "Learned  men  spend  their  lives 
in  trying  to  find  out  the  weight  of  the 
planets;  in  contriving  new  instruments 
for  measuring  the  immense  distance  of 
the  stars,  or  new  implements  for  destruc- 
tion of  their  fellow  men  in  war;  in  de- 
vising new  ways  of  plowing  the  sea  with 
ships;  but  they  think  it  beneath  their 
dignity  to  study  methods  of  tilling  the 
land  with  plows  and  increasing  the 
world's  supply  of  food." 

It  is  a  common  failure,  and  perhaps 


364 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


a  failure  particularly  common  to  women, 
that  they  do  not  give  correct  values,  that 
they  do  not  see  things  in  their  proper 
relation,  that  they  fail  to  grasp  totalities ; 
but  allow  themselves  to  be  very  fastidi- 
ous over  unimportant  details.  They 
"gape  at  gnats  and  swallow  camels." 

I  know  a  woman  who  dusts  her  ver- 
anda tw^ice  a  day,  as  if  it  were  a 
mahogany  table,  and  I  w^as  not  surprised 
to  hear  her  nephew  declare  that  he  was 
never  going  to  see  her  because  she  was 
"too  nasty  nice."  The  story  comes  to 
me  that  Mrs.  Z.  was  away  from  home 
when  Airs.  S.  came  to  call.  The  week's 
washing  w^as  hanging  upon  the  line 
within  sight  of  the  door  at  which  the 
visitor  stood,  and  she  could  not  take  her 
departure  till  she  had  re-hung  a  night- 
gown, which  had  not  been  put  upon  the 
line  properly.  So  it  happened  that  her 
visit  was  not  entirely  disappointing.  She 
had  had  "some  satisfaction." 

There  is  always  something  in  the  point 
of  view\  \A'hat  is  trivial  to  one  is  vital 
to  another.  What  one  woman  approves, 
another  "just  cannot  stand" — an  un- 
ironed  sheet,  for  example.  A  very  well 
know^n  American  w^riter  wishes  it  w^ere  a 
penal  offense  (one  coming  under  criminal 
jurisprudence)  for  boys  to  whistle  in- 
doors. Now  surely  that  w^oman's  mind  is 
not  what  we  could  call  balanced.  If 
ivhistling  indoors  is  a  crime — how  shall 
we  measure  punishment  for  murder? 
Boys  are  thoughtless,  and  it  seems  to  me 
possible  that  a  lad  might  even  whistle  in 
church — ^"  right  out  in  meeting" — without 
being  a  criminal. 

My  friend  \vrote  me  from  Switzer- 
land :  "Viewed  from  the  place  we  are 
now  in,  Monta  Rosa  is  only  a  little  knob." 
But  she  did  not  come  home  and  paint 
the  sublimest  peak  in  Europe,  as  "a  little 
knob."  She  had  common  sense  enough 
to  get  other  points  of  view,  and  the  best 
point  of  vie\v,  and  she  neither  slumbered 
nor  slept  till  she  had  an  adequate  con- 
ception of  the  stately  mountain  she 
wished  to  represent. 


I  was  once  staying  for  a  brief  time  in 
a  Southern  city.  My  days  had  been  very 
busy,  but  1  promised  myself  that  on  Sun- 
day evening  I  should  take  time  to  read. 
An  acquaintance,  however,  invited  me  to 
come  to  the  balcony  to  meet  some  of  her 
friends,  and  to  that  balcony  I  went,  and 
on  that  balcony  I  spent  two  golden  hours 
listening  to  a  conversation  upon  the  sub- 
ject of  bracelets.  The  women  were  w^ell- 
mannered  and  kind.  They  had  invited 
me,  thinking  I  should  be  lonely,  while  I 
was  looking  forward  to  being  alone,  as  a 
blissful  opportunity. 

They  might  have  done  much  worse 
than  to  spend  a  Sunday  evening  talking 
about  bracelets,  but  they  might  have  done 
better.  Let  me  quote  the  words  of  a 
French  lady  who  was  "deeply  and  fear- 
fully impressed  by  what  her  own  coun- 
try had  incurred  and  was  suffering"  from 
continued  and  ever-increasing  extrava- 
gance and  frivolity,  and  continued  and 
ever-depreciating  good  sense  and  deli- 
cacy.    She  said : 

"Paint  and  chignons,  slang  and  vaude- 
villes, are  in  themselves  small  offences ; 
yet  they  are  quick  and  tempting  convey- 
ances on  a  very  dangerous  highway." 

It  is,  however,  injustice  to  American 
w^omen,  as  a  class,  to  count  them  over- 
frivolous.  They  are  earnest  —  their 
earnestness  simply  being  misdirected. 
Their  hearts  are  better  than  their  heads. 
(How  fortunate  for  the  nation,  that  the 
balance  is  that  way!)  It  surely  becomes 
laughable,  however,  or  would  w^ere  it  not 
so  sad,  to  hear  to  what  subjects  women 
are  applying  their  brains.  There  is 
nothing  they  are  not  studying,  "from 
Greenland's  icy  mountains  to  India's 
coral  strand,"  excepting  only  the  things 
wdiich  pertain  to  their  own  homes.  As  to 
getting  them  to  pay  for  cooking  lessons. 
I  am  told,  it  is  impossible.  Very  few  of 
them  would  spend  $1  a  year  for  a  culin- 
ary magazine,  except  for  the  "sometime 
guest."  or  in  the  expectation  that  the 
editor  would  plan  their  meals  for  them 
and  save  them  the  trouble. 


COMMON    SENSE 


365 


On  the  other  hand,  a  German  woman, 
though  she  be  too  dignified  to  pick  up 
her  own  glove  when  it  fell,  would  do  her 
own  cooking.  She  would  not  relegate  to 
a  hired  servant  the  task  which  required 
the  largest  expenditure  of  brain  power, 
and  on  which  the  welfare  of  her  entire 
household  depended. 

It  is  a  good  thing  to  have  taste  and 
culture,  but  before  these  comes  common 
sense.  It  is  a  good  thing  to  be  spiritual 
minded,  but  give  spirit  a  body !  We 
count  it  an  excellent  occupation,  not  a 
trivial  one,  to  read  Browning;  but  to 
read  absorbedly  and  let  the  potatoes  burn 
and  the  tea  kettle  boil  dry  on  the  gas 
stove,  argues  a  lack  of  wits,  not  to  men- 
tion a  lack  of  potatoes  and  tea  kettle. 
Common  sense  means  sanity,  a  giving  to 
all  matters  their  due  attention.  It  might 
happen  that  a  woman  needed  Browning 
more  than  potatoes — for  the  soul  should 
not  be  left  to  starve,  and  Browning  can 
give  it  inexhaustible  provision ! 

If  there  is  any  place  in  the  world 
where  a  good  head  is  needed  it  is  in  the 
home.  In  the  first  place,  it  is  as  difficult 
to  finance  a  family  as  a  kingdom,  pro- 
bably more  difficult.  Then  there  is  no 
other  field  where  the  unexpected  happens 
with  such  frequency.  The  home-maker 
must  know  not  only  how  to  form  good 
plans,  but  how  to  set  them  aside,  other- 
wise she  becomes  a  tyrant  and  her  sub- 
jects may  at  any  time  rise  in  rebellion. 
She  cannot  sit  down  and  say — 'T  give  it 
up"  as  she  is  inclined  every  day  of  her 
life  to  do ;  but  she  must  proceed  through 
all  hindrances.  She  must  arrange  and 
execute  her  own  work  and  direct  that  of 
servants  or  children,  keeping  each  one 
busy  working  for  the  other.  She  may 
have  the  most  important  task,  but  the 
baby  is  sick,  the  groceries  fail  to  arrive, 
callers  detain  her,  plumbing  gets  out  of 
order,  or  the  paper  hangers  come! 
Never  mind !    When  the  hour  comes  for 


eating,  something  is  on  the  table  to  be 
eaten.  It  may  take  as  much  concentra- 
tion as  the  massing  of  forces  for  a  battle, 
but  a  meal  is  served. 

"Always  in  peril,"  is  the  woman  who 
commands  a  household,  "and  only  to  be 
saved  by  invention  and  courage."  In- 
vention !  Common  wits  to  meet  the  diffi- 
culty !  Invention  coupled  with  courage, 
for  a  perfectly  sane  woman  can  hardly 
get  along  in  an  insane  world  without 
courage.  She  must  first  see  what  to  do, 
and  then  be  brave  enough  to  act.  She 
may  have  time — let  us  hope  she  has — for 
church,  clubs  or  society — for  she  should 
feel  the  relationship  between  home  and 
the  world;  but  let  her  not  fail  to  reserve 
some  of  her  head  power  for  her  family; 
not  for  cooking  only  but  for  all  her  mani- 
fold duties  as  wife  and  mother. 

In  a  small  family  the  wheels  may  go 
round  with  little  friction,  if  the  woman  in 
charge  has  brains  and  character ;  but  a 
larger  household  is  more  complex,  and 
requires  more  competence-  There  may 
be  more  hands  to  do  the  work,  but  there 
must  be  one  mind  over  all. 

'T  cannot  see,"  said  one  of  the  neigh- 
bors, "how  Mrs.  T.  gets  along  so  well 
with  her  work.  She  is  not  forever  at  it, 
as  I  am;  and  she  does  not  nag  her  chil- 
dren and  husband  as  I  do.  She  has  as 
much  to  do  as  I,  but  things  come  out  all 
right!  She  must  be  a  philosopher!" 
Thus  the  case  of  Mrs.  T.  was  summed 
up,  and  the  diagnosis  was  entirely  cor- 
rect, though  the  speaker  did  not  see, 
perhaps,  that  philosophy  is  just  another 
name  for  common  sense.  She  herself 
was  lacking  in  the  power  to  think  clearly 
— a  faculty  required  for  all  persons  who 
would  bear  successfully  their  part  in  the 
play  called  "Life."  We  may  be  only 
supers,  with  no  speaking  part  at  all; 
nevertheless  we  shall  need  common  sense 
to  tell  us  when  to  get  off  the  stage. 


-rjacjj^^ 


A    Municipal    Conscience 


By  Kate  Gannett  Wells 


A  MUNICIPAL  conscience  seems 
to  be  the  last  accretion  of  Ameri- 
can womanhood,  and  as  a  motor 
power  it  already  has  accomplished  much. 
If  it  can  be  kept  detached  from  politics 
and  applied  to  actual  conditions  of  living 
rather  than  to  theories,  it  is  a  first-rate 
asset  for  womanhood.  For  just  as  long 
as  it  is  allied  with  grace  and  moderation 
in  deed,  is  neither  pertinaciously  aggres- 
sive or  advisory  nor  stupid,  the  individ- 
uals possessing  such  a  conscience  can 
help  to  run  a  city  without  losing  their 
pre-eminence  at  home. 

But  unfortunately  such  a  conscience  is 
often  addicted  to  talk  and  to  the  use  of 
current  phrases.  ''Industrial  efficiency" 
is  now  one  of  the  favorite  utterances — 
as  if  housekeepers  had  not  always  known 
the  difference  between  slackness  and  en- 
terprise. The  bother  with  so  many  new 
products  is  that  they  are  not  new,  only 
make-overs. 

Yet  it  is  an  immense  advantage  for  all, 
when  the  women  of  any  special  locality 
realize  that  its  appearance  and  health 
largely  depend  on  the  inspection  of  one's 
neighbors  by  one's  self.  It  may  not 
always  be  a  pleasing  occupation,  except 
as  ingenuity  in  devising  ways  of  approach 
into  other's  purHeus  stimulates  mental 
activity  and  even  in  her  own  area  one 
may  long  to  fall  back  upon  the  Korean 
proverb,  *'He  who  would  enjoy  his  food 
should  not  look  over  the  kitchen  wall." 
A  municipal  conscience,  however, 
without  an  historical  background,  is 
likely  to  be  either  too  enthusiastic  or  too 
dictatorial.  It  is  much  safer  to  read 
reports,  newspapers,  especially  the 
Women's  Page,  before  beginning  to  pro- 
pound theories,  and  to  discover  what  has 
been  done  before  beginning  to  do,  when 
it  is  often  found  that  one  after  all  is  not 
so  original  in   ideas  of   reform.     One's 


neighbors  may  be  as  ignorant  as  one's 
self  has  been  of  existing  ordinances,  such 
as  the  use  of  galvanized  ash  and  garbage 
cans.  It  sometimes  takes  a  fire  or  dis- 
ease to  convince  a  householder  that  she 
has  been  remiss  in  care;  but  until  dis- 
aster comes,  any  hint  to  her  of  her  short- 
comings is  received  as  a  personal  insult. 

The  best  gain  to  a  city  or  village,  in 
the  feminine  municipal  conscience,  is  its 
impress  on  personality  rather  than  on 
mere  organization.  Of  course  many 
such  consciences  must  touch  each  other 
so  closely  that  organization  is  wise  and 
inevitable.  Yet  reaction,  as  inevitable 
and  wise,  brings  a  person  rather  than 
the  police  force  of  law  to  bear  upon 
civic  annoyances,  on  dirty  markets,  rabid 
rats  and  destructive  flies,  grewsome 
smoke  and  alley  rubbish,  and  on  many 
another  less  fatal  grievance.  One  can- 
not work  in  such  a  commonsense  or- 
ganization without  seeing  that  personality 
holds  its  (!^vn,  that  mere  suggestion  and 
tactful  pleading  alone  accomplish  many 
desired  results. 

Beautiful,  the  word  is  used  advisedly, 
work  has  already  been  done  in  this  per- 
sonal way  by  the  Municipal  League  of 
Boston  and  similar  associations  else- 
where, and  by  countless  Village  Improve- 
ment Societies.  By  and  by,  it  will  be 
easy  to  keep  healthy  because  one's 
neighbors  are  no  longer  careless,  until 
the  perquisities  of  health  will  be  found 
in  civic  beauty  and  order.  The  home 
conscience  in  maintaining  things  "clean, 
tidy  and  well-kept"  expands  into  the 
municipal  conscience  which,  when  hy- 
giene and  sanitation  have  been  achieved, 
will  bring  leisure  to  the  quiet,  cultivated 
woman  for  her  "unobtrusive  perform- 
ance of  unpretending  duties,"  as  she  re- 
linquishes the  efforts  she  felt  herself 
forced  to  make  for  the  sake  of  others. 


A    MUNICIPAL    CONSCIENCE 


367' 


in  being  a  combatant  in  the  field  of 
modern  social  service. 

The  municipal  conscience  will  have  to 
guard  itself  from  insurgency,  since  any 
organization,  as  it  acquires  power,  begins 
to  make  its  own  laws.  As  its  executive 
ability  strengthens,  its  members  lose 
prestige  and  heart,  for  a  few,  or  more 
often  one,  becomes  the  ruling  spirit. 
Just  because  a  city  or  town  belongs  to 
us  all  or  we  to  it  (which  it  is  depends 
on  one's  point  of  view  and  makes  a  lot 
of  difference)  the  municipal  conscience 
wants  to  keep  all  in  active  work  until 
public  opinion  has  taught  each  one  to 
take  care  of  herself  for  the  sake  of 
others.  It  is  the  consumers,  who  can 
make  conditions,  who  more  often  are  at 
fault  than  the  producers. 

On  the  other  hand,  our  American  tem- 
perament can  easily  make  the  municipal 
conscience  a  thing  of  terror,  for  we  are 
as  apt  to  sacrifice  quality  to  quantity  (the 
value  of  the  work  we  do  to  the  amount 
we  do)  as  to  insist  upon  unnecessary 
thoroughness,  which  may  be  "morally  a 
merit  but  industrially  a  defect."  Worthy 
example  does  not  win  as  frequently  as 
a  delightful,  easy  urgency,  in  which 
women  can  be  adepts,  capable,  accord- 
ing to  Pat  Donan,  of  "holding  their  own 


and  something  more  in  any  assembly  on 
any  occasion  and  under  any  circum- 
stances." To  Pat's  panegyric  should  be 
added — "and  their  accounts  balance  at 
the  end  of  the  year." 

Phillips  Brooks  said,  "Do  not  pray  for 
tasks  equal  to  your  powers;  pray  for 
powers  equal  to  your  tasks."  Surely 
those  powers  for  the  tasks  of  to-day 
have  already  been  trained  by  the  long 
centuries  of  housekeeping  in  which,  as 
women  gained  control  over  their  house- 
hold implements  and  material,  they  found 
through  the  home  the  surest  way  to  make 
the  world  happier. 

The  distinction  of  all  this  municipal 
conscience  lies  in  its  being  the  natural 
outgrowth  of  the  housekeeper's  con- 
science. It  already  has  learned  that 
equity  is  the  basis  of  successful  home 
administration  and  now  it  sees  that 
municipal  equity,  as  women  can  promote 
it,  lies  in  the  spirit  of  co-operation  and 
publicity  for  the  sake  of  others,  in  those 
departments  of  civic  hpusekeeping,  good 
milk  for  babies,  etc.,  in  which  an  injury 
to  one  infects  others  more  or  less.  We 
all  want  to  be  profit-sharers  in  civic 
health,  order,  beauty,  just  as  all  the  in- 
mates of  a  happy  home  are  pro  fit- sharers 
in  whatever  increases  it»  welfare. 


March 

By  L.  M.  Thornton 

Oh,   little  bird,   from  the   Southland   winging, 
Sweet  to  my  ear  the  news  you're  bringing; 
Trilling  your  song,  the  meadows  over. 
Pledging  your   mate   a   faithful   lover. 
In   measures    rythmic  and  loud   and   clear. 
Your  gay  voice  tells  me  that  Spring  is  here. 

Oh,  little  flower,   from  your  low  bed   springing, 
Good   to   my   eye,    the   news   you're   bringing. 
Painting  in  colors    fair  and  tender, 
A  sign  of   the   Summer's  coming  splendor. 
Wakened  early  my  heart  to  cheer, 
You   bring  a   message  that  Spring  is  here. 

Oh,  gentle  breeze,  through  the  orchard  singing, 
Good   tidings    unto   the    world   you're   flinging. 
Winter,  that  ruled   so   long,   defeated. 
Cold   and    snow   of   their   kingdom   cheated. 
Welcome  zephyrs,   as   far  and  near 
You  voice  the  story  that   Spring  is  here. 


Miss    Eversham's   Rug 


By  Frances   Campbell   Sparhawk 


PART   III 


WITHIN  a  week  from  the  date 
of  Mr.  Kent's  conversation 
with  Miss  Eversham,  AHce 
Miller  announced  to  her  young  co- 
worker that  she  was  going  to  leave  the 
store. 

"They've  turned  you  off?"  cried  the 
other.    'Too  bad!    What  for?" 

'Turned  me  off!  Not  much,  Flol 
We've  had  such  a  streak  of  luck!  But 
my  mother  won't  let  me  call  it  'luck.' 
She  says  it  is  God's  doing  straight 
through — and  it  does  look  that  way." 

"When  are  you  going  to  tell  me?" 
cried  Florence.  "They'll  be  calling  us  in 
a  minute." 

"My  mother's  going  to  keep  house  for 
a  very  rich  gentleman  with  lots  of  ser- 
vants— three  or  four,  I  guess.  She 
won't  have  to  put  her  hands  to  any  hard 
work;  and  the  house  is  beautiful.  He's 
in  a  hurry;  and  she's  going  next  Mon- 
day." 

"But  that  ain't  you,"  said  Florence 
impatiently.     "What's  your  luck?" 

"Just  a  piece  of  that,  Flo.  The  gen- 
tleman says  a  store's  not  the  place  for  a 
young  girl.  I  ought  to  go  to  school  and 
fit  myself  for  work  that  will  pay  better. 
So,  I'm  to  go  and  live  with  mother  in 
his  beautiful  house,  and  go  to  school  and 
study  hard ;  and  if  mother  stays,  I  s'pose 
I  shall,  until  I  get  into  work."  Her 
listener  sighed.  "And  what  do  you 
think?"  went  on  Alice.  "He's  so  gener- 
ous he  wouldn't  let  mother  take  off  a 
cent  of  her  salary  for  my  board ;  he  said 
if  I  was  an  industrious  girl,  I  was  wel- 
come to  my  bread  and  butter  until  I  had 
come  to  a  good  way  of  earning  it.  My ! 
But  I'm  going  to  study !" 

Her  Hstener  expressed  her  unselfish 
sympathy.  "And  you'll  come  and  see  me 
sometimes?"  she  asked  anxiously. 


"Don't  worry  about  that,  Flo,  dear," 
Alice  called  back,  smiling  and  nodding 
as  she  ran  off  to  give  in  her  resignation. 

The  evening  that  Miss  Eversham  first 
went  to  dine  at  Mrs.  Parker's,  Mr.  Kent 
was  there.  Both  he  and  the  host  were 
very  bright  men,  Rachel  was  the  soul 
of  hospitality,  and  Elinor  enjoyed  her- 
self immensely.  She  had  been  so  long 
restricted  in  social  intercourse  that  she 
felt  herself  in  a  new  world;  and  as  she 
thought  it  over  that  night  as  she  lay 
smiling  to  herself  at  some  of  the  wit  she 
recalled,  it  seemed  to  her  that  she  would 
work  all  the  better  for  being  waked  up. 

From  that  day  life  changed  for  Elinor 
Eversham;  its  even  and  dull  tenor  was 
constantly  being  broken  into  by  delight- 
ful interruptions.  Mrs.  Parker  had 
taken  her  up,  and,  certainly,  did  not  in- 
tend to  let  her  drop.  Elinor  had  most 
decidedly  refused  to  go  into  general 
society ;  she  had  no  time,  no  money,  even 
no  inclination  for  it.  But  motoring  was 
not  included  in  this.  And  Mrs.  Parker 
seemed  to  have  taken  up  Mr.  Kent  also; 
for  the  two  were  always  calling  for  Miss 
Eversham  to  go  somewhere  with  them. 

"Leave  your  work,  leave  your  work, 
Elinor,"  Rachel  would  say.  "The  fresh 
air  will  do  you  good ;  you'll  draw  all  the 
better  for  it."  And  Elinor  would  yield, 
because  yielding  was  so  pleasant.  Occa- 
sionally Mr.  Parker  or  some  one  else 
would  make  a  fourth ;  but  of tener  the 
three  went  alone,  until  Rachel  used  to 
say  with  a  laugh  as  they  set  Elinor  down 
at  her  own  door,  "When  shall  we  three 
meet  again?  Not  in  thunder,  lightning, 
or  in  rain!" 

Elinor  had  Mr.  Parker  and  Rachel  to 
dinner.  But  no  coaxing  on  the  part  of 
the  latter  could  induce  her  to  invite  Mr. 
Kent,  also ;  she  declared  that  she  could 


MISS    EVERSHAM'S    RUG 


369 


not  manage  a  quartette;  she  had  not 
enough  after  dinner  coffee  cups. 

He  grew  into  the  habit  of  dropping  in, 
however,  almost  as  frequently  as  at  Mrs. 
Parker's.  He  was  never  asked  to  dinner, 
but  he  had  many  a  cup  of  afternoon  tea, 
and  many  a  chat  not  by  an%  means  over 
illustrations.  At  these  visits  he  was  en- 
tertaining and  appeared  in  excellent 
•spirits.  But  going  away  from  them,  he 
would  walk  with  downcast  look  and 
meditative  air.  ''She  is  as  bright  and  gay 
and  aloof  as  an  utter  stranger,"  he  would 
say  to  himself  at  such  times.  "Her  work 
is  full  of  heart  and  fervor.  Does  she 
keep  everything  for  that,  I  wonder?" 

One  day  as  Mrs.  Parker  was  talking  of 
Elinor,  he  spoke  of  her  great  charm  and 
yet  her  great  coldness. 

His  listener's  eyes  glowed,  and  for  an 
instant  she  did  not  look  at  him.  Then, 
**You've  not  mined  in  the  right  place,  or 
deep  enough,  Mr.  Kent,"  she  answered 
lightly;  and  added  with  great  serious- 
ness, "Elinor  Eversham  has  heart,  if  she 
has  nothing  else.  Take  my  word  for 
that." 

The  other  made  no  further  confi- 
dences. But  he  began  to  fear  that  some- 
thing was  seriously  wrong  with  his 
mining.  Perhaps  the  ground  had  been 
pre-empted. 

"Nat,"  said  Mrs.  Parker  to  her  hus- 
hand  that  evening,  "I  hate  to  be  beaten, 
when  I've  made  up  my  mind  to  some- 
thing." 

"I  didn't  know  you  ever  were,"  he 
laughed.  "Now,  when  you  made  up  your 
mind  for  me,  you  know — " 

She  stopped  him  in  a  summary  way. 
"I'm  laughing,",  she  added;  "but  really, 
I  don't  feel  like  it.  Things  are  going 
crooked,  or,  what's  worse,  they're  not 
going  at  all.  I've  made  up  my  mind  to 
have  two  persons  fall  in  love  with  one 
another." 

"And  are  they  not  kind  enough  to  do 
it?" 

"I  can't  find  out." 

"Ho!  ho!  ho!     I  never  knew  you  in 


such  a  place  before  I" 

"Now,  laugh,  do,  when  I'm  in  dis- 
tress !" 

"Well,  it's  not  dire  distress,  is  it?" 

"Yes,  indeed,  it  is,  sir." 

"Then  open  your  heart  to  me ;  don't 
just  give  me  a  glimpse  of  one  corner  be- 
hind the  curtain.  Are  you  talking  of 
Kent  and  that  old  schoolmate  of  yours  ?" 

"To  be  sure." 

"Perhaps,  now,  they'll  do  better  work 
if  you  leave  them  to  go  each  alone." 

"Work!  work!  work!  What  a 
machine  you  are !" 

He  laughed.  "Go  ahead  then.  But 
let  me  remind  you  of  the  old  proverb, 
'Striving  to  better,  oft  we  mar  what's 
well.'  " 

But  Rachel  Parker  slighted  good  ad- 
vice. One  day,  when  she  and  Elinor  were 
sitting  alone  together  in  the  latter's 
house,  she  began  to  talk  of  the  success 
that  Mrs.  Miller  had  proved  and  how 
well  it  was  for  her  and  the  child  who 
was  doing  finely  at  school. 

"Mr.  Kent  is  so  kind;  he  takes  real 
interest  in  her  progress,"  Rachel  went 
on.  "But,  Elinor,  that's  no  way  for  a 
man  to  live,  a  man  like  him  who  would 
enjoy  home  life."  He  ought  to  marry. 
I've  been  trying  to  think  up  somebody 
for  him.  How  do  you  think  Marjorie 
Gray  would  do?  She  is  handsome  and 
rich,  and  bright  enough  for  a  fireside, 
you  know;  and  about  thirty,  just  the 
right  age.  I  believe  I'll  bring  the  two 
together  a  little  and  see  how  it  will  come 
out." 

"Yes.  Why  don't  you?"  said  Miss 
Eversham  briskly,  turning  away  to  pull 
down  the  shade  which  was  letting  the 
sun  into  their  faces.  "It  would  be  an 
excellent  idea;  and  I  don't  see  why  it 
wouldn't  succeed.  Go  at  it,  Rachel ;  and 
tell  me  about  it  when  you  come  again." 

"Are  you  really  cold?  or  indifferent? 
or  mighty  clever?"  thought  the  other, 
watching  her  closely.  Elinor  looked  a 
little  pale;  but  she  often  did.  And  she 
went  on  talking  of  the  last  motor  drive 


370 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


they  had  had  and  laughing  as  freely  as 
if  her  heart  were  perfectly  whole — or 
even  as  if  she  hadn't  any;  as  it  seemed 
she  had  not  at  Mr.  Kent's  service. 

It  was  after  her  friend  had  gone, 
puzzled  and  half  angry,  that  Elinor 
Eversham  sat  for  hours  alone  and  faced 
the  situation  into  which  her  own  care- 
lessness, as  she  told  herself,  had  brought 
her.  She  was  keen  enough  when  she 
waked  up  to  a  fact.  At  last  she  per- 
ceived that  Rachel  had  been  first  trying 
on  Elinor  herself  the  little  game  she  was 
now  proposing  for  Marjorie  Gray.  She, 
Elinor  Eversham,  as  proud  a  woman  ^s 
ever  walked,  had  been  trotted  out  to 
show  her  paces  and  let  Mr.  Kent  see  if 
he  liked  her — and  he  did  not! 

She  clenched  her  hands  and  moaned 
in  her  mortification.  What  had  been 
done  was  without  remedy ;  she  must  bear 
the  sting  of  it  as  best  she  could.  And  in 
the  light  of  this  revelation,  she  read  an- 
other truth — she  had  seen  too  much  of 
Mr.  Kent!  But  this  was  a  fact  for  the 
depths  of  her  own  heart;  no  one  else 
would  ever  know  it. 

"She'll  not  come!"  cried  Mrs.  Parker 
turning  to  her  companion  with  a  real 
distress  in  her  tones.  -Why  hadn't  she 
let  things  alone?  She  saw  that  Elinor 
was  leaving  the  way  clear  for  Marjorie 
Gray — ridiculous. 

"She'll  not  come!"  echoed  Mr.  Kent. 
"Why  not?  What  reason  does  she  give 
this  superb  day;  and  such  a  run  as  we 
should  have.    What  does  she  telephone  ?" 

"Too  busy!"  retorted  Mrs.  Parker 
with  scorn.    "Let's  go  and  rout  her  out." 

But  they  could  not  shake  Elinor's  de- 
termination to  stick  more  closely  to  her 
work;  she  was  getting  behind  hand,  she 
said.  What  else  she  meant  Rachel 
Parker  guessed  dimly,  but  did  not  betray. 
She  w^as  not  fond  of  confessing  her 
mistakes;  and  she  saw  no  way  out  of 
this  one. 

Three  months  went  by-  To  Kent  they 
brought  more  and  more  days  of  despair. 


More  than  once  he  had  gone  to  Elinor 
determined  to  speak  his  heart  out  to  her 
and  try  his  fate  that  very  day.  And 
each  time  he  had  come  away  from  Miss 
Eversham  so  chilled  by  her  laughing  in- 
difference, her  brilliant  coldness  that  he 
had  not  dare^d  to  utter  his  hope;  to  woo 
her  when  she  was  in  that  mood  would 
be  to  invite  failure. 

Mrs.  Parker  perceived  his  state  of 
mind.  She  thought  of  revealing  it  to 
Elinor.  But  her  one  meddling  had  been 
so  disastrous  that  she  feared  to  try  an- 
other. 

Miss  Eversham's  work  for  these  past 
months  had  been  finer  than  ever.  Her 
face  before  others  had  been  gay ;  but 
her  inward  life  had  been  a  humiliating 
realization  that  without  Mr.  Kent  there 
was  no  joy  for  her.  She  had  lived  for 
years  without  joy,  and  she  could  go  on 
doing  it.  But  she  certainly  was  not  to 
be  thrown  at  his  head  any  more.  She 
grew  a  little  paler,  and  a  little  thinner, 
which  Rachel  noticed,  and  told  her  hus- 
band what  had  come  from  disregarding 
his  advice. 

He  declared  that  Cupid  was  the  only 
legitimate  matchmaker,  and  ought  to  be 
left  to  take  care  of  his  own  business,  and 
was  indifferent  to  everything  but  books 
and  illustrations  which  were  doing  well. 

Elinor  now  went  more  frequently  to 
luncheon  than  to  dinner  with  her  old 
schoolmate,  when  the  women  had  cozy 
chats  together,  with  neither  saying  what 
was  uppermost  in  her  mind. 

One  morning  they  were  seated  in  Mr. 
Parker's  den,  of  which  in  his  absence  his 
wife  often  took  possession.  It  looked 
very  attractive  that  keen  March  day  with 
a  bright  wood  fire  on  the  hearth  and  the 
rug  which  had  once  been  Elinor's  lying 
warm  and  charming  in  its  soft  colors. 
Glancing  at  it,  she  thought  that,  on  the 
whole,  it  had  brought  her  more  sorrow 
than  happiness.  Mrs.  Parker  had  taken 
up  the  morning  paper  and  was  reading 
scraps  from  it  to  her  guest.  Suddenly 
her  indifference  changed  to  an  exclama- 


COOKERY    IN    LITERATURE 


371 


tion  of  horror. 

"Another  terrible  accident!"  she  read. 
"A  great  many  hurt  and  some  killed. 
Why,  that  was  the  train  Mr.  Kent  told 
me  yesterday  he  was  going  to  take  to 
Chicago  last  night!  And,  yes — oh,  Eli- 
nor, here's  his  name  among  the  killed. 
They've  put  his  initials  wrong;  but  the 
name  is  Kent,  and  as  he  went,  it  must 
be  he — oh,  Elinor,  how  terrible !" 

There  was  no  answer,  and  she  looked 

up. 

Elinor  lay  motionless  in  her  easy-chair. 
She  had  fainted.  Rachel  sprang  to  get 
the  smelling  salts  from  her  bedroom. 

At  the  door  of  the  den  she  met  Mr. 
Kent  face  to  face.  She  started  with  an 
exclamation.  Then  recovering  her  wits, 
she  said  in  hot  haste,  pointing  into  the 
room,  'T  just  read  your  name  to  her 
among  the  killed  in  the  railroad  accident. 
You  said  you  were  going  and  I  thought 
it  was  you ;  and  she  fainted  dead  away 
at  the  news.  Go  and  try  to  restore  her 
while  I  fly"  for  help  for  her." 

Kent  springing  forward,  caught  Elinor 
in  his  arms,  calling  her  by  all  endearing 
names  and  entreating  her  to  wake  and 
answer  him.  To  ears  that  at  first  were 
deaf,  but  roused  at  his  passionate  words. 


he  poured  forth  the  story  of  his  love 
until  color  flooded  back  to  her  face  and 
her  eyes  fluttered  open.  Rachel  peeping 
in  and  assuring  herself  that  kisses  were 
as  eflfectual  as  smelling  salts,  noiselessly 
withdrew. 

But  when,  at  last,  Elinor,  rallying  her 
forces,  endeavored  to  release  herself,  he 
still  held  her  for  a  moment. 

"Oh,  Elinor,  don't  you  love  me  a 
little?"  he  pleaded. 

"No — not  a  little-/'  she  whispered  back. 

"We're  going  to  have  a  very  quiet 
wedding  in  June,  and  take  Europe  this 
summer  and  the  Eastern  tour  in  the 
winter,"  explained  Mr.  Kent  when  Mrs. 
Parker  at  last  returned,  trying  in  vain 
to  smother  her  smiles  in  her  dimples 
which  would  have  play. 

"You  planned  it,"  said  her  husband 
later. 

"No,  I  never  thought  of  such  a  thing. 
I  didn't  know  he  had  changed  his  mind 
about  going  and  was  coming  here.  It 
was  Cupid's  doings.  But  we'll  give  her 
the  wedding,  Nat.  And  a  quiet  one,  in- 
deed !  Ha !  ha !  At  last,  I  have  my  hand 
on  something  I  can  manage !" 
End. 


Cookery  in  Literature 

By  E.  E.  M. 

PART  II 


CONSIDERING  that  roast  beef 
and  plum  pudding  are  commonly 
called  the  chief  national  dishes  of 
England,  it  is  natural  that  hearty  eating 
has  been  usually  accepted  as  characteris- 
tic of  Englishmen.  Emerson  commended 
the  plentiful,  nutritious  diet  of  English 
laborers  who  had  no  notion  of  subsisting 
on  water  cresses.  "Good  feeding  is  a 
chief  point  of  national  pride  among  the 
vulgar,"  he  wrote,  "and  in  their  carica- 


tures they  represent  the  Frenchman  as  a 
poor,  starved  body,"  willing  to  live  on 
soups  and  sweets.  Almost  every  town 
has,  however,  its  own  famous  and  pecu- 
liar dish  or  dainty.  Yorkshire  has  its 
ham  and  toasted  tea-cakes;  Devonshire 
its  clotted  cream  and  junkets;  Bath  its 
buns,  and  Shrewsbury  its  pancakes. 
Many  a  hint  of  the  old-fashioned  Eng- 
lishman's lusty  enjoyment  of  food  is 
given  to  us  in  the  gossipping  journal  of 


Z72 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL'  MAGAZINE 


Samuel  Pepys.  When  Madam  Pepys 
gave  a  really  line  dinner,  she  provided  a 
dish  of  marrow-bones ;  a  leg  of  mutton ; 
a  loin  of  veal ;  a  dish  of  fowl,  three  pul- 
lets and  a  dozen  of  larks  all  in  a  dish; 
a  great  tart,  a  neat's  tongue,  a  dish  of 
anchovies ;  a  dish  of  prawns,  and  cheese. 

Certain  American  dishes  are  no  less 
distinctive.  Benjamin  Franklin  would 
have  preferred  the  turkey  to  the  eagle 
as  our  national  bird,  considering  it  a 
much  more  respectable  fowl,  and  none 
the  worse  emblem  because  **it  is  a  little 
vain  and  silly."  Tea  has  been  associated 
with  Massachusetts  patriotism  ever  since 
the  days  of  the  Boston  Tea  Party  in  the 
harbor;  and  there  is  a  certain  national 
sentiment  in  Whittier's  praise  of  *'the 
bowl  of  samp  and  milk,  by  homespun 
beauty  poured,"  which  he  is  careful  to 
extol  above  the  pineapples,  oranges,  and 
grapes  of  other  lands.  With  this  be- 
longs Lucy  Larcom's  assurance  that  she 
had  grown  as  fat  as  a  pig  through  living 
for  a  week  on  johnny-cake  and  milk. 
She  recommends  to  a  desired  visitor 
cornmeal  fritters  with  sugar  and  cream, 
and  declares  that  she  can  herself  make 
nice  doughnuts,  and  that  '*it  is  genteel  to 
drink  coffee  for  breakfast,  dinner,  and 
supper." 

Hawthorne,  as  well  as  Miss  Larcom, 
could  turn  cook  on  occasion,  and  prob- 
ably he  enjoyed  the  result,  as  much,  at 
least,  as  he  enjoyed  some  of  his  lunch- 
eons at  the  Saturday  Club.  "Imagine 
that  superb  head,"  wrote  his  admiring 
wife,  "peeping  at  the  rice  or  examining 
the  potatoes  with  the  air  and  port  of  a 
monarch.  ...  On  Christmas  Day  we 
had  a  truly  Paradisical  dinner  of  pre- 
served quince  and  apple,  dates,  and  bread 
and  cheese,  and  milk."  Then  they  left 
the  dishes  for  morning  work,  enjoying 
"beautiful  long  evenings  from  four 
o'clock  to  ten." 

Speaking  of  Concord,  one  recalls  Miss 
Alcott's  tea-fight,  when  more  guests  came 
than  had  been  expected,  and  she  let  the 
hungry   wait  and  the  thirsty  moan   for 


tea,  while  she  picked  out  and  helped  "the 
regular  anti-slavery  set"  to  the  best  there 
was.  A  merry  evening  followed  the 
speaking,  "after  which  scrabblings  of 
feast  appeared,  and  we  drained  the  dregs 
of  every  cup,  all  cakes  and  pies  we  gob- 
bled up ;  then  peace  fell  upon  us,  and 
our  remains  were  interred  decently." 

On  occasion  "the  regular  anti-slavery 
set"  fared  less  well,  according  to  the 
testimony  of  Miss  Sallie  Holley,  who 
complained  that,  on  her  lecturing  tour  in 
Pennsylvania,  her  poor  entertainers  ex- 
pected her  to  "sit  down  in  a  dirty,  dingy 
kitchen  to  highly  spiced  sausages ;  or  a 
dish  here  denominated  as  scrapple,  and 
hot,  thick,  heavy,  pancakes."  She  endured 
it  all  for  the  cause,  and  probably  she  would 
never  have  written  the  words,  had  she 
known  that  the  chance  mention  of  her 
discomforts  would  go  where  the  mem- 
ory of  the  lectures  has  been  forgotten. 
There  is  ample  testimony  that  the  ef- 
forts of  Pennsylvania  cooks,  then  as 
now,  bore  usually  a  far  different  char- 
acter. 

Lowell,  like  Whittier,  praised  homely 
common  vegetables,  as  if  they  were 
flowers.  He  wrote  with  enthusiasm 
of  "pie-plants, — compulsory  monastics, 
blanched  under  barrels,  each  in  his  own 
little  hermitage,  a  vegetable  Cortosa." 
That  is  news  to  us,  who  have  always 
believed  that  rhubarb  should  court  the 
sunshine.  Of  celery  Lowell  declared 
rightly  that  its  virtue  is  its  paleness,  and 
it  was*in  an  obscure  corner  of  the  gar- 
den that  he  found  "the  sanguine  beet, 
tolerated  only  for  its  usefulness  in  allay- 
ing the  asperities  of  Saturday's  salt-fish." 
That  was  in  the  days  when  Cambridge- 
port  was  a  huckleberry  pasture,  and 
when  a  boy  who  bought  dates  bought 
also  a  dream  of  Egypt  and  palm-trees 
and  Arabs.  In  those  days,  too,  the  stu-. 
dents  in  the  college  used  to  hand  down 
a  simple  joke,  from  class  to  class,  as 
follows : 

A  enters  the  grocery  store  and  asks, 
gravely : 


COOKERY    IN    LITERATURE 


373 


''Have  you  any  sour  apples.  Deacon?" 
"Well,  no,  I  haven't  any  just  now  that 
are  exactly  sour;  but  there's  the  bell- 
flower  apple,  and  folks  that  like  a  sour 
apple  generally  like  that."  Exit  A. 
Enter  B. 

"Have  you  any  sweet  apples,  Deacon?" 
"Well,  no,  I  haven't  any  just  now 
that  are  exactly  sw^eet,  but  there's  the 
bell-flower  apple,  and  folks  that  like 
a  sweet  apple  generally  like  that." 
Exit  B. 

Lowell  recorded,  too,  his  Maine  guide's 
praise  of  pork.  'Tt's  more  nourishin' 
than  anything  else.  It  kind  o'  don't  di- 
gest so  quick,  but  stays  by  •  ye.  a-nour- 
ishin'  ye  all  the  time.  ...  A  feller  can 
live  wal  on  frizzled  pork  an'  good  spring 
water,  git  it  good." 

Hearty  appetites  have  belonged  not 
only  to  Elaine  guides  but  to  some  of  the 
most  poetic  and  philosophical  of  minds. 
Both  poets  and  artists  have  made  much 
of  the  fact  that  Goethe  fell  in  love  with 
Lotte  von  Kestner  when  she  was  pre- 
paring supper  for  her  younger  brothers 
and  sisters.     Thackeray  put  it  thus : 

"Werther    had    a    love    for    Charlotte 
Such   as   words   could    never   utter ; 
Would    you    know    how    first    he    met    her? 
She    was    cutting   bread    and    butter." 

Thackeray  concludes  that  even  after 
W^rther's  tragic  end  Charlotte  placidly 
"went  on  cutting  bread  and  butter."  But. 
disentangle  fact  and  fiction  as  one  may 
froiii  the  \\'erther  story,  to  understand 
Goethe's  wholesome  satisfaction  in  the 
less  poetic  details  of  physical  nourish- 
ment, one  must  read  his  letters  to  Frau 
von  Stein,  the  first  of  which  begins 
gratefully  with  thanks  for  the  gift  of  a 
sausage  and  continues  with  frequent 
mention  of  presents  of  vegetables,  game, 
and  cooked  dishes.  It  is  not,  perhaps, 
ill-natured  to  remember,  also,  that 
the  red-cheeked,  curly-haired  'Christine, 
whom  he  really  married,  was  famous 
chiefly  for  her  cooking  and  housekeeping 
ability. 


It  would  not  be  easy  to  estimate  justly 
the  truth  of  the  old  saying  about  the 
way  to  a  man's  heart,  at  least  in  the 
more  delicate  stages  of  approach  before 
marriage.  There  is  some  evidence  to 
show  that  as  many  girls  have  been  won 
by  bonbons  as  men  by  beefsteaks.  Law- 
rence Sterne  sent  Kitty  Tourmantelle  a 
pot  of  sweetmeats  and  a  pot  of  honey, 
with  the  assurance  that  neither  of  them 
was  half  as  sweet  as  herself,  but  he 
added : 

"Don't  be  vain  upon  this,  or  presume 
to  grow  sour  upon  the  character  of 
sweetness  I  give  you ;  for,  if  you  do,  I 
shall  send  you  a  pot  of  pickles  by  way 
of  contraries." 

Helen  Campbell  reminded  us  once  that 
Thackeray  learned  to  treat  all  his  boy 
friends  to  apricot  omelette  after  beef- 
steak pudding,  a  combination  which  he 
abhorred  himself,  but  which  delighted  the 
boys ;  and  she  recalled  in  the  same  con- 
nection the  tragedy  of  the  apricot  puflf 
in  "The  Mill  on  the  Floss."  Maggie, 
eager  only  to  please  Tom,  offered  to 
take  the  half  with  the  jam  run  out,  but 
Tom  insisted  that  she  should  choose 
blindfold.  When  the  desirable  half  fell 
to  her  and  Tom  began  to  be  cross  be- 
cause she  still  begged  for  the  inferior 
piece,  she  ate  it  as  ordered  and  really 
enjoyed  the  novelty  of  Tom's  renuncia- 
tion, only  to  have  her  heart  broken  a 
little  later  by  the  cry  of  "Oh,  you  greedy 
thing!"  as  she  finished  the  last  crumb. 

One  might  trace  the  changes  and  modi- 
fications in  table  manners  from  one  gen- 
eration to  another,  keeping  pace  with  the 
gradual  substitution  of  comfort  for  both 
luxury  and  deprivation.  The  lovely 
Lady  Russell  of  1681,  before  misfortune 
overtook  her,  wrote  to  her  ill-fated  hus- 
band of  the  merry  family  celebration  of 
his  birthday,  the  noble  lord  himself  being 
absent  from  home :  "We  drank  your 
health  after  a  red-deer  pie,  and  at  night 
our  girls  and  I  supped  on  a  sack-posset ; 
nay.  Master  (their  little  boy)  would  have 

(Continued  on  Page  XX  ) 


374 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


THE 

BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary    Science    and    Domestic    Economics 
Janet    McKenzie    Hill,    Editor 

PUBLISHED  TEN  TIMES  A  YEAR 

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LESSONS  IN  ELEMENTARY 
COOKING 

THE  series  of  Lessons  in  Elementary 
Cooking,  which  are  appearing  at 
present  in  our  pages,  are  of  especial  in- 
terest to  cooking  teachers  everywhere. 
Already  the  lessons  are  receiving  com- 
mendation from  many  sources,  with  re- 
quests that  they  be  continued  to  include 
all  classes  and  kinds  of  food  products. 
These  lessons  are  the  result  of  the  prac- 
tical experience  of  a  teacher  in  one  of 
the  best  schools  in  the  State  of  Massa- 
chusetts. While  they  are  simple  and  yet 
comprehensive,  the  method  of  presenta- 
tion is  both  scientific  and  modern.  On 
the  whole  this  series  of  lessons  can  not 
fail  to  be  helpful  and  suggestive  to  all 
those  who  are  engaged  or  in  anywise 
interested  in  the  teaching  of  elementary 
cooking. 


TO  OUR-  SUBSCRIBERS 

WE  want  to  retain  your  name  on  our 
list  of  subscribers.  This  hst  is 
growing  steadily,  year  by  year,  and 
especially  in  this  year  we  have  made  sub- 
stantial gains,  for  which  in  large  measure 
grateful  thanks  are  due  to  our  readers 
and  patrons.  We  want  you  to  belong  to 
an  ever-increasing  number  of  progressive 
housekeepers.  We  might  well  have  the 
names  of  thirty  thousand  more  house- 
keepers on  our  list,  and  give  them  all 
even  better  service  than  we  are  now 
giving  our  present  clientage,  for  our 
means  would  be  larger.  Certainly  house- 
keeping is  to  play  a  larger  part  in  matters 
economic  in  the  future  than  it  has  ever 
done  in  the  past. 

And  yet  we  can  not  desire  you  to 
continue  your  subscription,  unless  you 
also  want  this  kind  of  a  periodical.  Our 
relations  must  be  of  mutual  advantage 
and  profit.  We  are  glad  to  notice  in  so 
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tinue their  subscriptions  do  so  reluc- 
tantly and  with  good  and  sufficient  rea- 
son. We  are  just  in  receipt  of  the  fol- 
lowing: *T  enclose  check  for  two  dollars. 
I  have  concluded  to  send  the  magazine 
to  my  sisters.  I  do  not  think  I  have 
failed  to  get  one  or  two  valuable  recipes 
out  of  each  number,  and  I  am  not  only 
an  experienced  cook,  but  have  a  good 
library  of  cook  books.  I  have  had 
courses  under  the  best  known  teachers 
of  cookery.  I  have  taken  one  or  two 
cooking  magazines  every  year  since  I 
began  housekeeping  twenty-one  years 
ago,  but  I  am  sure  that  yours  has  been 
as  valuable  as  any  I  have  ever  had,  and 
I  wish  you  every  success." 

This  magazine  is  designed  to  be  in- 
structive and  helpful  to  the  housekeeper ; 
to  teach  her  how  to  prepare  and  serve 
wholesome  and  palatable  food,  not  only 
as  the  safe  and  sure,  but  also  as  the 
natural  means  to  healthful  living.  We 
do  not  aim  at  reform,  have  never  had  a 
call    to    preach.      The    professional    re- 


EDITORL\LS 


O/O 


former,  we  suspect,  is  always  something 
of  a  crank.  At  any  rate  we  have  no 
desire  at  all  to  join  that  sort  of  a  pro- 
cession. We  simply  wish  to  do  well 
whatever  we  may  do  and  render  timely 
and  useful  service  to  our  co-workers  in 
the  domain  of  home  making.  A  leading 
question  of  the  day  is  doubtless  that  of 
home  economics.  Do  not  fail  to  heed 
well  a  matter  of  so  much  importance  as 
the  conduct  of  your  household. 

QUALITY  AXD  CHARACTER 

IN  looking  over  the  numerous  pub- 
lications of  the  day  we  constantly 
wonder  at  the  matter  of  which  they  are 
composed.  Apparently  the  contents  of 
the  larger  number  of  these  periodicals 
are  made  up  chiefly  of  fiction,  fiction, 
fiction  ad  nauseam.  Rarely  do  we  find 
anything  interesting,  instructive  or  even 
readable.  The  everlasting  stor}*  becomes 
tiresome ;  it  surfeits  the  reader  and 
weakens  his  power  of  intellectual  appli- 
cation. Does  not  biography  provide  a 
much  more  valuable  and  healthy  mental 
pabulum  than  the  ordinary  and  current 
class  of  fiction?  By  contemplating  the 
lives  and  experiences  of  others  we  learn 
to  fashion  our  own  minds  and  characters. 
Of  all  the  publications  we  are  wont 
to  examine  the  religious  weeklies  are 
best  worthy  of  approval.  In  general 
they  are  well  conducted,  and.  aside  from 
matters  of  sectarian  interest,  they  do 
present  some  articles  that  pertain  more 
or  less  to  ethics,  morality  and  character. 
And,  after  all.  is  not  character,  moral 
character,  the  thing  of  greatest  concern 
to  us  in  life?  Does  not  all  our  digging 
and  delving  and  thinking  lead  up  to  the 
character  thus  fomied?  By  this  standard 
the  status  of  every  man  or  woman  is 
determined  and  fixed.  ""By  their  fruits 
ye  shall  know  them." 

THE    ETHICS   OF    COOKING 
"Ethics     of     Cookixg."     Boston     Cooking- 
School  Magazine.    This  is  a  cooking  magazine, 
and   while    supplying   a   popular   want   in    the 
hunt    for   a    recherche   recipe,    is   doing    much 


needed  work  in  bringing  home  to  the  average 
American  woman  some  ideas  of  what  cooking 
is.  The  average  cook  will  invariably  over- 
cook her  meats  and  under-cook  her  vegetables 
and  she  has  no  idea  of  the  reason  wh}-.  The 
average  American,  deprived  of  a  fn,-ing  pan 
and  a  lard  pail,  would  be  utterly  lost,  and  yet 
tlie  best  cooks  in  the  world  employ  neither. 
The  reason  why  is  never  told — not  even  in 
the  Boston  Magazine. — Inland  Herald,  Spo- 
kane, Wash. 

THIS  is  pretty  good;  we  like  it.  It 
suggests  the  raison  d'etre  of  the 
CooKixG-ScHOOL  ^Iagazixe.  .And  is 
not  "the  reason  why"  a  good  motto  for 
a   culinar}-   publication? 

The  young  cook  is  often  perplexed  by 
the  seeming  multiplicit}-  of  the  things 
she  needs  to  know  how  to  cook,  but  the 
matter  is  very  simple,  for  reduced  to 
lowest  terms,  the  problem  reads :  learn 
the  principles  that  underlie  the  proper 
cooking  of  an  egg  and  a  potato  and  apply 
these  to  the  cooking  of  all  other  food 
products.  By  a  little  thought  and  study, 
not  enough  to  overtax  the  time  or  mind 
of  anyone,  and  the  whole  subject  may 
be  worked  out. 

But  by  no  means  would  we  be  de- 
prived of  the  fr}-ing  pan  and  lard  pail. 
The  best  cooks  the  world  over  use  both, 
but  they  should  know  how  to  use  them 
properly.  It  is  the  abuse  and  not  the 
use  of  the  fr}ing  pan  or  lard  pail  that 
is  objectionable.  For  instance,  the  flavor 
and  juices  of  fish,  oysters,  chops,  etc.. 
when  properly  fried  in  deep  fat.  are 
conserved  as  in  no  other  way  of  cook- 
ing, and  even  the  napkin  on  which  the 
finished  products  are  laid  are  scarcely 
soiled  by  the  contact.  Here  th^  lard 
pail  is  in  evidence,  but  no  appreciable 
part  of  its  contents  is  partaken  of.  The 
conclusion  is.  the  culinary  art  must  be 
acquired ;  it  is  the  result  of  both  know- 
ledge and  experience. 

SCIENCE  IN  THE  KITCHEN 

The   work  of   the   skilful   cook   is    as 

potential    for   human   welfare   as   is   the 

work  of  the  physician  and  the  surgeon, 

for  often  culinar\-  skill  mav  save  us  from 


376 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


the  physician's  potion  and  the  surgeon's 
knife.  But  is  there,  in  the  profession  of 
cooking,  room  for  as  deep  study  and  in- 
vestigation, room  for  such  profound 
knowledge  as  in  the  profession  of  medi- 
cine or  of  surgery?  Is  there  not  equal 
responsibility  of  life  and  death?  Certain 
it  is  that  more  people  die  of  bad  cooking 
than  of  either  bad  medicine  or  bad  sur- 
gery. Cooking  is  a  noble  science,  and 
need  not  blush  among  the  other  sciences. 

The  greatest  of  the  sciences  is  chem- 
istry. It  is  the  science  on  which  all 
others  are  founded,  and  cooking  is  a 
child  of  chemistry.  The  chemist  is  verily 
a  cook.  In  his  pots  and  pans  he  has  tried 
out  of  black  coal-tar  all  the  colors  of  the 
rainbow,  and  has  converted  dead,  dull, 
waste  things  into  aromas  and  flavors  that 
make  commonplace  the  perfumes  of 
Arabia  and  the  spices  of  India. 

The  kitchen  is  the  laboratory  of  the 
home.  Its  proper  place  is  not  in  a  dim 
corner  at  the  rear  of  the  house,  but  in 
the  front  of  the  house,  where  the  sun- 
light is.  The  kitchen  should  be  large 
and  commodious,  convenient  and  acces- 
sible. 

There  is  but  one  best  way  of  doing  a 
thing,  and  in  this  scientific  age  we  are 
guided  less  and  less  by  guessw^ork,  more 
and  more  by  accurate  knowledge.  Cook- 
ing, like  poetry,  conforms  more  to  taste 
than  to  science.  While  the  farmer  makes 
requisition  on  chemistry  for  the  analysis 
of  his  soil  and  for  the  composition  of 
the  fertilizers  needed  to  bring  forth  the 
best  crop  of  vegetables,  w^hile  he  makes 
medicine  his  ally  for  the  health  of  his 
hogs  and  fowl  and  cattle,  his  kitchen 
often  continues  under  the  sway  of  acci- 
dent, guesswork  and  w^aste. 

There  are  four  particulars  in  which 
the  cooking  of  the  household,  of  the 
restaurant,  and  of  the  hotel  might  be 
improved  most  efifectually.  These  are 
economy,  taste,  digestibility  and  nutri- 
tion. 

As  w^ith  most  other  things,  the  de- 
mand  controls   the   price   of   meats.     A 


select  piece  of  tenderloin  from  the  back 
of  the  beef  may  cost  thirty  cents  a  pound, 
inclusive  of  the  bone  and  fat  that  go  with 
it,  although  this  soft  and  flabby  muscle 
is  far  less  nutritious,  and  therefore  less 
valuable  as  a  food  than  are  many  other 
parts  of  the  beef.  It  is,  in  fact,  about 
the  least  nutritious.  The  reason  why  it 
is  soft  and  flabby  and  tender  is  the  lack 
of  work  performed  by  it  during  life. 

The  most  nutritious  parts  of  an  animal 
are  those  highly  organized  portions  that 
during  life  have  been  subject  to  the 
greatest  variety  of  uses  and  the  most 
exposed  to  strains,  which  they  must 
possess  the  quality  of   withstanding. 

Youth's  Companion 

There  are  houses  known  by  courteous 
telephoning.  Telephone  courtesy  is  a  big 
thing,  as  courtesy  always  is.  Lx)ss  of 
temper  gains  nothing. 

The  less  you  require  looking  after,  the 
more  able  you  are  to  stand  alone  and 
complete  your  tasks,  the  greater  the  re- 
ward. Then  if  you  can  not  only  do  your 
work,  but  also  intelligently  and  effective- 
ly direct  the  efforts  of  others,  your  re- 
ward is  in  exact  ratio. 

And  the  more  people  you  direct,  and 
the  higher  the  intelligence  you  can  right- 
ly lend,  the  more  valuable  is  your  life. 

The  most  precious  possession  in  life 
is  good  health.  Eat  moderately,  breathe 
deeply,  exercise  outdoors  and  get  eight 
hours'  sleep. 

And  cultivate  Charm  of  Manner  as  a 
Business   Proposition. — Selected. 

Beauty  of  achievement,  whether  in 
overcoming  a  hasty  temper,  a  habit  of 
exaggeration,  in  exploring  a  continent 
with  Stanley  or  guiding  well  the  ship  of 
state  with  Gladstone,  is  always  fascinat- 
ing, and,  w^hether  known  in  a  circle  large 
as  the  equator  or  only  in  the  family 
circle  at  home,  those  who  are  in  this 
fashion  beautiful  are  never  desolate,  and 
some  one  always  loves  them. — Frances 
E.  IVillard. 


MAYONNAISE    MIXER    WITH    THE    INGREDIENTS 

Seasonable  Recipes 

By  Janet  M.  Hill 

IN   all  recipes  where  flour  is  used,   unless  otherwise  stated,  the  flour  is  measured  after  sifting 
once.     Where  flour  is  measured    by  cups,  the  cup  is   filled  with  a  spoon,  and  a  level   cupful 
is  meant.     A  tablespoonful    or  a   teaspoonful    of  any  designated    material   is   a   level   spoonful. 


Tomato     Soup     Thickened     with 
Barley 

COOK  one  can  of  tomatoes,  one 
onion,  sliced  thin,  and  two 
branches  of  parsley  ten  minutes 
and  press  through  a  sieve  into  a  double 
boiler.  When  boiling  stir  in  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  barley  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  mixed  to  a  smooth  paste 
with  water,  and  continue  to  stir  until 
boiling;  then  let  cook  over  boiling  water 
about  an  hour.  Add  salt  and  pepper, 
also  boiling  water  if  needed  and  serve  at 
once. 

Cream  of  Spinach  Soup 

Press  one  cup  of  cooked-and-chopped 
spinach  through  a  sieve ;  add  one  pint  of 
hot  white  sauce  (two  cups  milk  and  one- 
fourth  a  cup,  each,  of  butter  and  flour) 


and  let  boil  once;  add  three  cups  of 
white  broth  and  salt  and  pepper  as 
needed.  Strain  and  serve.  The  beaten 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  mixed  with  half  a 
cup  of  cream,  give  a  richer  soup.  Do 
not  boil  the  soup  after  the  addition  of 
the  Ggg. 

Cocoa  to  Serve  Thirty 

Put  one  cup  and  three-fourths  of  boil- 
ing water  into  a  double  boiler ;  add  three- 
fourths  a  cup  of  cocoa  and  let  stand 
imdisturbed  till  the  cocoa  is  moistened  ; 
stir  thoroughly,  then  add  one  cup  and 
three-fourths  of  boiling  water  and  stir 
again.  Let  cook  one  hour ;  add  two  and 
one-half  cups  of  sugar,  stir  till  dissolved 
and  let  cook  half  an  hour.  When  cold 
add  half  an  ounce  of  vanilla  extract  and 
strain  through  cheese  cloth.  There  will 
be  one  quart  of  cocoa  syrup.     This  may 


377 


378 


THE    BOSTOX    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


be  used  at  once  or  it  may  be  set  aside 
for  use  as  needed.  To  serve  two  divide 
one-fourth  a  cup  of  the  syrup  between 
two  cups  and  pour  three-fourths  a  cup 
of  hot  milk  into  each  cup.  Stir  and  it 
is  ready.  For  thirty  scald  six  quarts  of 
milk  in  a  large  double  boiler,  add  the 
quart  of  cocoa  syrup,  beat  with  spoon 
or  egg-beater  and  serve  at  once. 

Cocoa  to  Serve  12o 

Use  one  pound  of  cocoa,  five  pounds 
of  granulated  sugar,  three  and  one-half 
quarts  of  boiling  water  and  two  ounces 
of  vanilla.  Prepare  as  above,  putting 
half  of  the  boiling  water  into  the  boiler 
at  first.  A  spoonful  of  whipped  cream 
or  two  marshmallows,  floating  on  the  top 
of  the  cocoa  in  each  cup,  are  additions 
generally  approved. 


of  salt  and  one-fourth  a  teaspoon  of  pep- 
per; add  one  cup  and  a  half  of  milk  (or 
one  cup  of  fish  broth — left  from  boiled 
fish — and  half  a  cup  of  cream)  and  stir 
until  boiling.  Butter  scallop  shells ;  put 
in  a  little  sauce,  then  a  layer  of  fish  and 
cover  with  sauce.  Mix  one  cup  of 
cracker  crumbs  into  one-third  a  cup  of 
melted  butter  and  spread  over  the  sauce. 
Pipe  a  little  hot  mashed  potato  on  the 
edge  of  the  fish,  brush  this  with  the 
beaten  yolk  of  an  tgg,  diluted  with  one 
or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  and  set 
into  a  hot  oven  to  brown  the  crumbs  and 
the  edges  of  the  potato.  Creamed  oys- 
ters, shrimp,  lobster  or  crabflakes  may 
be  prepared  in  the  same  manner.  If  oys- 
ters are  used,  bring  quickly  to  the  boiling 
point,  drain  and  use  the  liquid  (strained) 
with  cream  for  the  sauce.     Often  better 


COCOA  SERVICE 


Creamed  Fish  in  Scallop  Shells 

Any  cold  cooked  fish  may  be  used. 
Separate  into  flakes  while  hot  if  con- 
venient. For  each  cup  of  fish  prepare 
three-fourths  a  cup  of  the  sauce.  For 
two  cups  of  fish  a  cup  and  a  half  of 
sauce  is  needed.  For  this  melt  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter ;  in  it  cook  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  half  a  teaspoon 


results  will  be  secured,  if  the  article 
ffish  or  oysters,  etc.)  be  stirred  into  the 
sauce,  and  this  mixture  used  for  filling 
the  shells.  Oysters  should  be  cut  in 
halves. 


Mexican  Rabbit 

Melt  a  scant   tablespoonful  of   butter 
the  blazer  of  a  chafing  dish,  turning 

may    be 


m 
the 


blazer    that    the    surface 


EASOXABLE    RECIPES 


379 


MEXICAN    R.\BBr 


evenly  oiled;  add  half  a  pound  of  cheese 
(common  factory;  cut  up  as  thin  as 
possible,  and  stir  until  the  cheese  melts ; 
add  three-fourths  a  cup  of  komlet  and 
a  large  red  pepper  cut  in  squares  or 
shreds  and  stir  a  moment,  then  add  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  beaten  and  mixed 
with  half  a  cup  of  thick  tomato  puree, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  paprika ;  stir  constantly 
until  the  mixture  thickens  to  a  smooth 
consistency.  Have  ready  four  slicees  of 
bread  toasted  on  one  side.  Cut  a  sound 
clove  of  garlic  in  halves  and  touch  the 
untoasted  side  of  the  hot  bread  here 
and  there  lightly  with  the  garlic;  pour 
over  the  rabbit  and  serve  at  once.  A 
carefully  poached  Qgg,  set  above  the 
rabbit  on  each  slice,  insures  a  heartv' 
meal. 

Molded  Eggs  with  Pimentos, 
French  Fashion 

Butter  eight  small  timbale  molds  verv- 
thoroughly.  Rinse  two  or  three  canned 
pimentos  in  cold   water,  then  dry  on   a 


cloth.  From  these  starr.p  :-i:  eigh:  stars 
(or  other  design ;  and  set  one  in  the 
bottom  of  each  mold;  add  a  few  drops 
of  melted  butter  to  each,  to  hold  it  in 
place.  Cut  the  rest  of  the  pimentos  into 
small  bits.  Beat  five  eggs  with  a  spoon; 
add  the  bits  of  pimento,  a  scant  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  dash  of  paprika. 
Put  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  in  a 
hot  fr\ing  pan,  turn  in  the  eggs  and  set 
over  a  moderate  fire  and  stir  constantly 
with  a  spoon  to  keep  the  eggs  smooth 
and  creamy.  When  slightly  thickened 
throughout  remove  from  the  fire,  add 
three  eggs,  slightly  beaten,  with  one- 
fourth  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt  and 
pepper  and  mix  thoroughly.  Turn  into 
the  prepared  molds,  set  the  molds  in  a 
baking  pan  on  many  folds  of  paper,  sur- 
round with  boiling  water  and  let  cook 
in  the  oven  about  ten  minutes  or  until 
the  Ggg  is  set.  Remove  the  molds  from 
the  water  and  after  a  few  minutes  (the 
mixture  by  standing  will  shrink  from  the 
mold;  ;  unmold  on  croutons  of  bread 
(toast),   over   which   a   Httle    cream   or 


MOLDED  EGGS  WITH  PIMENTOS.  FREN'CH  FASHION 


380 


THK    r,OSTOX    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 
Serve 


tomato   sauce   has   been   poured, 
additional  sauce  in  a  bowl. 


spread  a  little  cheese  sauce  over  one  half, 
then  fold  and  turn  the  omelet  upon  a  hot 


e\XtLish  lamb  chops,  maintenon  style 


Rice  Omelet,  Cheese  Sauce 

Have  ready  a  cup  of  hot  boiled  rice 
(measured  after  cooking)  so  cooked  that 
the  grains  are  distinct.  Beat  the  whites 
of  two  eggs  dry  and  the  yolks  imtil 
thick.  To  the  yolks  add  the  rice,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  dash  of  pepper 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  water;  fold  these 
over  and  over  to  mix  thoroughly,  then 
fold  in  the  beaten  W'hites.  Melt  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  in  an  omelet  pan ; 
turn  in  the  rice  and  egg  mixture,  let 
stand  over  the  fire  to  become  "set"  on 
the  bottom,  then  remove  to  the  oven  to 
remain  until  a  knife  cut  down  into  the 
mixture    is    removed    without    uncooked 


dish ;  pour  the  rest  of  the  sauce  around 
and  serve  at  once. 

Cheese  Sauce 

Melt  two  tablespoonf Ills  of  butter ;  in 
it  cook  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and 
one-fourth  of  a  teaspoon,  each,  of  salt 
and  pepper ;  add  one  cup  of  rich  milk  and 
stir  till  boiling;  add  half  a  cup  or  more 
of  grated  cheese  and  stir  without  boiling 
till  the  cheese  is  melted. 

English  Lamb  Chops,  Maintenon 
Style 

The  flank  ends  of  the  chops  may  be 
retained  or  removed,  as  desired.  The 
flank   ends   will   not   be   made   tender   in 


CHICKEN    LOAF,    READY    TO   COOK 


egg  adhering  to  it.     Score  the  omelet  at      the  short  time  given  to  the  cooking  of 
right  angles   to  the  handle  of   the  pan,      the   rest   of   the   chop.      When   retained 


SEASONABLE    RECIPES 


381 


they  simply  furnish  more  space  for  the 
Maintenon  mixture.  If  these  be  dis- 
carded, there  will  be  enough  of  the  mix- 
ture to  dress  four  additional  chops. 
Trim  off  the  flank  ends  or  roll  them  and 
press  close  to  the  rest  of  the  chop.  Broil 
the  chops,  or  cook  them  in  clarified  but- 
ter, on  one  side  only,  to  stiffen  them. 
Set  a  rounding  tablespoon  of  Maintenon 
preparation  on  the  cooked  side  of  each 
chop ;  with  a  silver  knife,  wet  in  water, 
give  the  preparation  a  smooth  dome 
shape.  Cover  with  cracker  crumbs  (one 
cup)  stirred  into  melted  butter  (one- 
third  a  cup).  The  chops  may  be  cooked 
at  once  or  set  aside  in  a  cool  place  for 


through  a  sieve.  Melt  one-fourth  a  cup 
of  butter;  in  it  cook  half  a  cup  of  flour, 
half  a  teaspoon  of  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste,  then  add  the  onion  puree,  white 
broth  and  cream  to  make  in  all  one  cup 
and  a  third  of  liquid ;  stir  until  boiHng ; 
add  one-fourth  a  pound  of  fresh  mush- 
rooms, chopped  and  simmered  two  or 
three  minutes  in  one  or  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  butter  and  stir  until  the  mix- 
ture boils  again,  then  add  two  yolks  of 
eggs,  well  beaten,  and  stir,  without  boil- 
ing, until  the  egg  is  set.  The  mixture 
should  be  of  the  consistency  of  a  cro- 
quette  mixture. 


CHICKEN   LOAF,   SLICED   FOR  SERVING 


some  hours.  Cook  in  a  rather  hot  oven 
about  eight  minutes.  Serve  around  a 
mound  of  cooked  peas  and  carrot  slices, 
dressed  with  salt,  black  pepper  and  but- 
ter. If  canned  peas  are  used  they  will 
be  improved  by  the  addition  of  a  tea- 
spoon of  sugar. 

Maintenon  Preparation 

Peel  one  medium-sixed  onion,  cover 
with  cold  water,  bring  to  the  boiling 
point  and  let  cook  four  minutes ;  drain 
and  dry  on  a  cloth;  slice  the  onion  and 
let  simmer  in  two  tablespoons  of  butter 
without  taking  color.  When  the  butter 
is  absorbed,  add  one  cup  of  white  broth 
and  let  simmer  until  the  onion  is  tender 
and    the    broth    evaporated,    then    press 


Chicken  Loaf 

Remove  the  flesh  from  a  fowl  weigh- 
ing about  four  pounds ;  to  this  add  about 
a  pound  and  a  half  of  veal  and  a  pound 
of  fresh  pork  (containing  considerable 
fat)  free  from  unedible  portions.  If 
the  pork  be  rather  lean,  add  also  about 
one-fourth  a  pound  of  bacon.  Pass  the 
whole  through  a  meat  chopper.  Add 
four  crackers  rolled  fine,  three  eggs,  well 
beaten,  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  two 
pimentos,  cut  in  small  pieces,  or  two  chilli 
peppers,  chopped  exceedingly  fine,  one- 
third  a  cup  of  sauce  (white  or  tomato) 
or  cream  and  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful 
of  ground  mace  or  nutmeg.  Mix  all  to- 
gether very  thoroughly,  then  shape  into 


382 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


a  long  smooth  loaf.  Put  thin  slices  of 
fat  pork  in  a  baking  dish ;  upon  these 
dispose  the  roll  of  meat.  Have  ready 
two  or  three  truffles,  sliced  very  thin,  and 
about  one-fourth  a  cup  of  blanched  al- 
monds. Press  these  down  into  the  loaf 
to  make  several  rows,  a  little  distance 
apart,  the  entire  length  of  the  loaf.  The 
first  row  should  be  pressed  down  nearly 
to  the  bottom  of  the  meat,  the  meat 
brought  into  shape  and  another  row 
pressed  down  towards  the  first.  Re- 
shape the  roll  as  needed,  set  salt  pork 
above  and  set  into  a  hot  oven  to  cook 


Mayonnaise  Dressing,  Latest 
Method 

(Quickly  made  without  danger  of  separation.) 

Beat  the  yolk  of  one  egg;  add  one- 
fourth  a  teaspoon,  each,  of  salt  and 
paprika  and  beat  again,  then,  use  an  egg- 
beater,  and  beat  in  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  vinegar  or  lemon  juice ;  beat  vigor- 
ously, then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  olive 
oil  and  continue  the  beating;  add  oil,  a 
teaspoonful  at  a  time,  three  or  four 
times,  beating  vigorously  meanwhile, 
then  add  the  oil  by  the  tablespoonful,  un- 


ASPARAGUS  SALAD   IN    PIMENTOS 


for  fifteen  minutes.  Lower  the  heat  and 
let  cook  very  moderately,  basting  often, 
about  two  hours.  Serve  cold,  sliced  very 
thin.  From  the  chicken  bones  and  trim- 
mings of  the  meat  and  cold  water  make 
broth.  Use  this  for  a  soup  or  for  aspic 
jelly  to  serve  with  the  loaf,  or  with  the 
browned  juices  in  the  baking  pan  as  a 
sauce. 

Asparagus  Salad  in  Pimentos 

Mix  chilled,  cooked  asparagus  tips 
with  French  or  mayonnaise  dressing  and 
dispose  in  whole  pimentos,  set  on  heart 
leaves  of  lettuce.  Set  half  a  teaspoon 
of  mayonnaise  above  the  asparagus  in 
the  cases  and  serve  at  once. 


til  a  cup  in  all  has  been  used.  Finish 
with  one  tablespoonful  of  boiling  water, 
beating  it  in,  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
oil.  By  adding  all  the  acid  to  the  yolk 
before  oil  is  used,  the  egg-beater  may 
be  used  from  the  beginning  and  the 
larger  surface  over  which  the  oil  is 
spread  lessens  the  liability  of  the  mix- 
ture to  curdle.  The  boiling  water  at  the 
last  also  assists  in  preventing  the  "turn- 
ing" or  curdling  of  the  sauce  after  it  has 
been  set  aside.  After  the  sauce  is  mixed 
cover  with  an  earthen  dish  and  set  aside 
in  a  cool  place.  The  sauce  will  thicken 
upon  cooling.  If  a  mayonnaise  mixer, 
like  the  one  shown  in  the  illustration,  be 
used,  the  ''dropper"  filled  with  oil  may 


SEASOXABLE    RECIPES 


383 


ASPARAGUS  AND    RADISH   SALAD 


be  set  to  deliver  the  oil  in  a  small  steady 
Stream.  Constant,  uninterrupted  beating 
is  essential,  however. 

Asparagus-and-Radish  Salad 

Slice  a  bunch  of  radishes,  crisped  in 
cold  water,  very  thin  and  make  dry  on 
a  cloth.  Have  ready  cooked  a  bunch  of 
asparagus  tips,  and  the  heart  leaves  of  a 
head  of  crisp  lettuce,  washed  and  dried. 
Dispose  the  lettuce  on  a  serving  dish,  the 
asparagus  above  and  the  radish  slices 
around  the  asparagus.  To  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  add  a  scant  half  a 
teaspoon,  each,  of  salt  and  pepper,  about 
ten  drops  of  onion  juice,  a  teaspoonful  of 
fine-chopped  parsley  and  six  tablespoon- 
f  uls  of  olive  oil ;  mix  thoroughly  and  pour 
over  the  vegetables.  Serve  as  a  dinner 
salad  or  add  three  or  four  cold  hard- 
cooked  eggs,  cut  in  even  slices,  and  serve 
as  the  main  dish  at  luncheon  or  supper. 


Salad    of    Asparagus    Mousse    or 
Cream 

Cut  cold,  cooked  asparagus  stalks  of 
a  length  to  stand  upright  in  individual 
timbale  molds ;  set  these,  head  down- 
wards, a  little  distance  apart  or  close 
together  to  line  eight  small  molds.  Put 
the  rest  of  a  bunch  of  asparagus  in  a 
cup  of  chicken  broth  or  water  over  the 
fire ;  add  two  slices  of  onion,  a  clove 
pushed  into  each,  three  slices  of  carrot, 
two  sprigs  of  parsley  and  half  a  teaspoon 
of  sweet  herbs  and  whole  spices  tied  in 
a  bit  of  cloth,  cover  and  let  simmer  un- 
til the  asparagus  is  tender  and  the  liquid 
is  somewhat  evaporated.  Remove  the 
onion,  carrot  and  herbs  and  press  the 
asparagus  through  a  sieve.  There  should 
be  one  cup  of  asparagus  pulp  and  liquid. 
Add  half  a  teaspoon  of  salt,  a  dash  of 
paprika  and  one  tablespoonful  of  gran- 


SALAD   OF  ASPARAGUS   MOUSSE 


384 


HE    HOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


ulated  gelatine,  softened  in  one-fourth  a 
cup  of  cold  water  and  dissolved  by  set- 
ting the  cup  in  a  dish  of  boiling  water. 
Stir  occasionally  while  cooling.  When 
the  mixture  begins  to  thicken,  fold  into 
it  one  cup  of  cream,  beaten  firm,  and 
turn  into  the  lined  molds.  The  recipe 
will  be  enough  for  eight  molds.  Serve, 
unmolded,  with  lettuce  hearts  and  French 
dressing. 

Quick  Yeast  Rolls 

To  one  cup  of  scalded  milk  add  one- 
fourth  a  cup  of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt  and  a  level  tablespoonful  of  su- 
gar ;  stir  till  the  butter  is  melted  and  the 
liquid  is  lukewarm,  then  stir  in  a  cake 
of  compressed  yeast,  mixed  with  one- 
fourth  a  cup  of  lukewarm  water,  and  as 


Turkish  Cream  Candy 

I^it  one  cup  and  a  half  of  rich  sweet 
cream  and  three  and  three-fourths  cups 
of  granulated  sugar  over  the  fire.  Cook, 
stirring  often,  until  a  very  soft  ball  may 
be  formed  in  cold  water  or  to  238°  on 
the  sugar  thermometer.  Let  cool  a  little, 
then  turn  upon  a  marble  or  a  large  plat- 
ter. When  quite  cool  work  back  and 
forth  with  a  wooden  paddle  until  it 
shows  signs  of  turning  to  a  cream ;  add 
one-third  a  cup,  each,  of  candied  fruit 
and  blanched  almonds  or  pistachio  nuts 
and  continue  to  use  the  paddle  until  the 
mixture  becomes  "set."  Let  stand  ten 
or  fifteen  minutes,  then  break  off  a  small 
portion  and  knead  until  soflened  and  pli- 
able throughout,  then  pres^  into  a  mold 


TURKISH   CREAM   CANDY 


much  bread  flour  as  can  be  conveniently 
mixed  in  with  a  spoon.  The  dough 
should  not  be  mixed  stiff  enough  to 
knead.  Mix,  cut  and  turn  the  dough 
over  and  over  with  a  spoon  or  knife, 
cover  and  set  aside  to  become  light. 
When  the  dough  has  doubled  in  bulk, 
with  buttered  fingers  pull  off  bits  of  the 
dough  and  work  into  smooth  balls  and 
set  them  close  together  in  a  buttered 
pan.  When  very  light  bake  about  twen- 
ty-five minutes.  These  are  good  re- 
heated. 


lined  with  oiled  paper.  Continue  in  this 
way  until  the  whole  mass  is  pressed  into 
the  mold.  This  quantity  will  about  fill 
a  quart  mold.  This  may  be  cut,  at  once, 
into  slices  and  the  slices  in  cubes  or 
other  shapes,  or  it  may  be  set  aside  for 
future  use.  The  cubes  of  candy  are  at 
their  best  when  coated  with  chocolate. 
A  pound  of  "Dot"  chocolate  will  be 
needed  to  dip  the  quantity  of  cubes  that 
may  be  cut  from  the  above  recipe.  Cut 
the  chocolate  into  small  pieces,  melt  in  a 
double  boiler,  beating  vigorously  mean- 


SEASONABLE    RECIPES 


385 


while.  The  water  around  the  chocolate 
should  be  considerably  below  the  boiling 
point.  Dip  the  cubes,  one  by  one,  into 
the  chocolate  and  drop  upon  table  oil- 
cloth. After  ten  or  twelve  have  been 
dipped  set  them  (on  the  cloth)  aside  in 
a  cool  place  to  harden. 

Lenten  Fritters 

Scald  two  cups  of  milk  over  boiling 
water;  stir  vigorously  while  gradually 
sprinkling  in  a  generous  half-cup  of  fine 
corn  meal,  sifted  with  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt  and  one-fourth  a  cup  of  sugar, 
continue  to-  stir  until  the  mixture  is 
smooth  and  thick,  then  cover  and  let 
cook  an  hour  longer.  Beat  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs ;  add  a  little  of  the  mush  and 
mix  thoroughly,  then  stir  into  the  rest  of 
the  mush  with  such  flavoring  as  is  de- 
sired ;  a  teaspoonful  of  brandy  or  a 
larger  quantity  of  maraschino  or  a  tea- 
spoonful of  vanilla  are  the  usual  flavor- 
ings. Turn  into  a  shallow  pan  to  make 
a  sheet  not  more  than  half  an  inch  thick. 
When  cold  cut  into  rings  (a  doughnut 
cutter  may  be  used)  ;  dip  the  rings  in 
flour  and  fry  in  deep  fat;  drain  on  soft 
paper,  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar  and 
serve  at  once. 

Mock  Mince  Pie,  Spring  Style 

Chop  together  one  cup,  each,  of  rhu- 
barb and  raisins ;  add  the  grated  rind  and 
juice  of  one  lemon,  tw^o  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter,  one  cup  of  sugar,  one  egg, 
well  beaten,  and  mix  thoroughly.  When 
turned  into  the  plate  lined  with  pastry, 
dredge  on  a  little  flour  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful of  salt.     Bake  with  two  crusts. 

Banana  Pie 

Pass  enough  peeled  bananas  through 
a  vegetable  ricer  to  fill  a  cup.  To  this 
add  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  molasses,  or  the  grated  rind  and 
juice  of  half  a  lemon,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  one  beaten  egg,  one-third  a  tea- 
spoonful  of    cinnamon,    half    a    cup   of 


milk,  and  one-third  a  cup  of  cream.  ^.lix 
all  together  thoroughly,  and  bake  until 
firm  in  a  pie  plate  lined  with  pastry  as 
for  squash  pie. 

Cottage  Pudding 

Beat  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter  to  a 
cream  and  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  until 
thick;  then  beat  half  a  cup  of  sugar  into 
the  butter  and  one-fourth  a  cup  of  sugar 
into  the  yolks  and,  finally,  beat  the  two 
mixtures  together.  Sift  together,  three 
times,  one  cup  and  a  half  of  flour,  two 
level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder  and 
one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  salt;  add  to 
the  first  mixture,  alternately,  with  half  a 
cup  of  milk  and,  lastly,  add  the  white  of 
one  egg,  beaten  dry.  Bake  in  a  sheet 
about  twenty  minutes.  Cut  in  squares 
and  serve  hot  with  Frothy  or  Creamy 
Sauce. 

Creamy  Sauce 

Boil  one  cup  of  granulated  sugar  and 
half  a  cup  of  boiling  water  to  a  thick 
syrup  (six  to  eight  minutes)  and  pour  in 
a  fine  stream  upon  the  white  of  one  egg, 
beaten  dry,  beating  constantly  mean- 
while ;  beat  occasionally  until  cold,  then 
fold  in  one  cup  of  whipped  cream  and 
flavor  to  taste — a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
extract  is  appropriate. 

Honey  Wafers 

Cream  half  a  cup  of  butter ;  gradually 
beat  into  it  in  the  order  enumerated  half 
a  cup  of  powdered  sugar,  the  grated  rind 
of  a  lemon,  one  cup  of  strained  honey 
and  two  cups  of  flour.  Spread  the  mix- 
ture on  tin  sheets,  or  in  baking  tins,  to 
form  very  thin  rounds  about  two  inches 
in  diameter.  Use  a  palette  knife  to 
spread  the  mixture.  Bake  in  a  moder- 
ately heated  oven.  After  they  have 
been  removed  from  the  oven  about  one 
minute,  lift  them  from  the  tins  with  a 
palette  knife  and  shape  them  over  a 
piece  of   clean  brown   handle. 


Menus  for  a  Week  in  March 

"  Idleness  should  be   classed  with   hunger  and   thirst,  and   the   one  should   be   avoided 
just  as  much  as  the  other  two." 


Breakfast 

Creamed    Finnan    Haddie    in    Shells 

Radishes.     Baked   Potatoes 

Quick   Yeast   Rolls    (Reheated) 

Grapefruit    Marmalade 

Cocoa.     Coffee 

Dinner 

Fowl   en   Casserole 

Asparagus-and-Radish    Salad 

Prune    Parfait 

Turkish   Cream   Candy, 

Chocolate  Dipped 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Cream    Cheese-and-Pimcnto   Salad 

Quick  Yeast   Rolls    (Reheated) 

Sponge  Cake.     Cocoa 


Breakfast 

Cereal,  Stewed  Peaches  (Dried)   Cream 

Hashed    Fowl    on   Toast 

Pop  Overs ,   Coffee.     Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Molded    Eggs    with    Pimentos, 

French    Fashion 

Canned  String  Beans  (Hot) 

Aviation  Bread  and  Butter 

Sliced  Pineapple,  Tea 

Dinner 

Hamburg  Roast,  Tomato   Sauce 

Buttered    Parsnips 

Chocolate    Cornstarch    Pudding, 

Boiled    Custard 

Half   Cups  of   Coffee 


Breakfast 

Gluten    Grits,    Stewed    Prunes,    Cream 

Broiled  Ham,  Fried  Eggs 

White   Hashed    Potatoes 

Doughnuts,  Coffee.     Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Beef,    Potato-and-Red    Pepper   Hash 

Buttered  Toast  or 

Baking  Powder  Biscuit 

Jellied    Cabbage 

Stewed  Figs.     Cream,    Tea 

Dinner 

Tomato  Soup    (Cream) 

Broiled  Lamb   Chops 

Spinach  with  Slices  of  Hard  Cooked  Egg 

French    Fried    Potatoes 

Chocolate    Eclairs 

Half   Cups  of   Coffee 


Breakfast 

Sausage,  Creamed  Potatoes 

Hot    Apple    Sauce 

English  Muffins,  Toasted 

Fried  Rice,   Maple   Syrup 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Mexican    Rabbit,  Cold    Slaw 

Brownies    Pineapple    Juice 

Dinner 

Hot   Boiled    Ham,    Horseradish 

Mashed  Potatoes 

Stewed   Tomatoes 

Prune    Souffle   or   Whip, 

Whipped   Cream 

Orange    Cookies 

Half   Cups  of   Coffee 


Breakfast 

Cereal,   Thin    Cream 

Broiled    Honeycomb   Tripe 

Creamed    Potatoes 

Kornlet   Griddle   Cakes 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Thick  end  of  Corned  Brisket,  Boiled 

Boiled  Turnips,   Boiled  Potatoes 

Spinach 

Banana  Pie    (made  like  Pumpkin) 

Coffee 

Supper 

Boiled    Rice,    Milk 

Hot    Ham    Sandwiches,  Apple    Sauce 

Fig  Layer   Cake,    Tea 


Breakfast 

Grapefruit,  Cereal,   Thin    Cream 

Eggs   Poached   in   Broth 

(Extract  of  Beef  or  Water) 

on   Toast 

Doughnuts,  Coffee.     Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Salt  Codfish  Balls,   Sauce  Tartare 

Whole  Wheat  Biscuit  (Quick  Yeast) 

Blushing  Apples,   Orange   Sauce 

Grape  Juice 

Dinner 

Creamed  Corned   Beef  Au  Gratin 

(Flavored  with  Onion  and  Celery) 

Boiled   Onions,    Buttered 

Celery  or  Cabbage  Relish 

Cottage  Pudding,  Creamy  Sauce 

Half   Cups  of   Coffee 


Breakfast 

Oranges 

Corned  Beef-and-Potato  Hash 

Eggs  Cooked  in  Shell 

Fried  Mush,  Maple  Syrup 

Dry  Toast 

Coffee,  Cocoa 


Luncheon  Dinner 

Ham  Timbales,  Tomato  Sauce  Beans  Baked  with  TomatoSauce 


Bread  and  Butter 

Baked  Bananas,  Sultana  Sauce 

Cream  Cheese,  Wafers 

Pineapple  Juice 

386 


Canned  Beets,  Pickled 

Tomato  Catsup 

Quick  Yeast  Biscuit 

Pineapple  Tapioca  Pudding 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 


Menus  for  Week  in  Lent 


"  When  tissue  change  is  slow  and  the  supply  of  energy  equals  the  demand,  as  in 
well-nourished  persons  in  middle  life  and  old  age,  the  quantity  of  nitrogenous  food 
should  be  diminished." 


Breakfast 

Cereal,    Thin    Cream 

Waffles,  Maple   Syrup,    Coffee.     Cocoa 

Pinner 

Emergency    Soup 

Onions  Stuffed  with  Pecan  Nuts,  Baked, 

Cream   Sauce 

Lettuce-and-Egg    Salad, 

Mayonnaise   Dressing 

Baked   Indian   Pudding,   Whipped   Cream 

Coffee 

Supper 

Mexican  Rabbit,    Olives 

Sliced    Pineapple    (Canned) 

English  Tea  Cakes,    Tea 


Breakfast 

Eggs   Poached  in   Milk   on   Toast 

Rye    Meal    Muffins 

Stewed    Peaches    (Dried) 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Kornlet   Chowder 

•     Canned    Beets,    Pickled 

Dutch   Apple    Cake,    Hard    Sauce 

Half  Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Macaroni    Baked    with    Tomatoes    and 
Cheese     Canned   Fruit 
Baking   Powder   Biscuit 
Dry    Toast,   Tea 


Breakfast 

Boiled   Rice,   Thin   Cream 

Salt    Codfish    Balls,    Sauce    Tartare 

or    Horseradish 

Pop  Overs ,     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Baked    Beans,    Tomato    Catsup 

Nut    Bread 

Cottage    Pudding,    Creamy    Sauce 

Half   Cups  of   Coffee 

Supper 

Cream    Toast    with    Cheese 

Canned  Fruit,    Gingerbread 

Cocoa.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Grapefruit,    Baked    Potatoes,    Butter 

Eggs    Cooked    in    the    Shell 

Buckwheat  Griddle   Cakes,   Maple   Syrup 

Coft'ee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Creamed    Lobster    or    Other    Fish 

Hot   House   Cucumbers,  French  Dressing 

Quick    Yeast    Biscuit 

Pineapple    Sherbet,    Mock    Angel    Cake 

Half    Cups   of    Coffee 

Supper 

Cream  Cheese-and-Pimento  Salad 

Whole    Wheat   Bread   and   Butter 

Honey    Wafers 

Cocoa  with  Marshmallows 


Breakfast 

Barley    Crystals,    Thin    Cream 

Rice   Omelet,    Cheese   Sauce 

Doughnuts.     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Succotash    (Dried   Lima   Beans   and 

Kornlet) 

Lady-Finger    Rolls 

Spinach    with    Hard-Cooked    Egg 

Stewed  Figs,  Whipped  Cream 

Honey    Wafers 

Half    Cups    of    Coffee 

Supper 

Finnan    Haddie    Cooked    in    Milk 

Baked    Potatoes 

Canned    Pears,  Cream  Cheese 

Biscuit,  Tea 


Breakfast 

Oranges,    Gluten  Grits 

Finnan    Haddie-and-Potato    Hash 

Kornlet   Griddle   Cakes,  Coffee 

Dinner 

"Breaded"   Fillets   of   Fish   Fried  in 

Deep    Fat,    Sauce    Tartare 

Mashed    Potatoes 

Scalloped  Tomatoes  and  Onions 

Mock    Mince    Pie,    Spring    Style 

Half   Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Hot    Cheese    Sandwiches 

Stewed    Prunes 

Turkish    Cream   Candy 

Chocolate  Dipped 

Tea 


Breakfast 

Oranges 

Scrambled  Eggs 

White  Hashed  Potatoes 

Fried    Cornmeal    Mush 

Caramel    Syrup 

Coffee.     Cocoa 


Dinner  Supper 

Cheese     Souffle    or    Pudding       Tomato  Soup  with  Barley 
Lettuce,   French  Dressing         Molded  Eggs,  White  Sauce 
Lady-Finger    Rolls  Lady-Finger  Rolls   (Reheated) 

Hulled    Corn,    Syrup,    Cream  Chocolate    Layer    Cake 

Half    Cups    of    Coffee  Canned  Fruit 

Tea 
387 


TirrrmfW^ 


Food  and  Economy 

Bv  Janet  M.  Hill 


IX  a  recent  lecture  before  the  Xew 
England  Home  Economics  Associa- 
tion the  idea  was  presented  that,  on 
account  of  the  attention  given  to  cookery 
in  the  daily  papers  and  a  large  number  of 
monthly  magazines,  the  women  in  this 
country  were  pretty  well  posted  in  culin- 
ary matters  and  did  not  need  much  fur- 
ther help  along  the  lines  of  food  and 
cookery. 

When  we  listened  to  this  statement  we 
were  incHned  to  be  sceptical,  and  the 
thought  arose  what  culinary  matters  or 
topics  on  food,  save  occasional  reports  of 
controversies  on  pure  food,  and  con- 
tributed recipes,  often  of  negative  value, 
do  the  daily  papers  publish.  This  was 
followed  by  the  mental  question,  where 
does  this  woman  find  such  clean  food  and 
well-prepared  luncheons  as  to  cause  her 
to  feel  that  the  millenium  in  cooking  has 
come,  the  last  word  on  food  and  cookery 
has  been  said,  and  people  in  general  are 
well-fed  and  nourished? 

No  doubt  advance  in  these  matters  has 
been  made  and  women,  more  and  more, 
are  coming  to  recognize  what  is  meant 
by  properly  prepared  food ;  at  the  same 
time  few  have  any  passably  accurate 
knowledge  of  food  values  and  the  uses 
in  the  body  of  the  two  great  classes  of 
nutrients,  and  but  little  understanding  of 
the  necessity  of  varying  the  ratio  between 
these  nutrients,  in  accordance  with 
changes  in  age,  health  and  season  of  the 
year.      No,   we   are   sure   the   last   word 


on  food  and  cookery  has  not  been  said  or 
written,  until  every  mother  in  the  land 
knows  how  to  cook  an  egg  and  other 
proteid  substances  without  hardening  and 
toughening  them,  unduly ;  to  set  before 
the  family  bread  that  is  light  and  not 
doughy,  and  to  make  tea  and  coffee  so 
as  to  retain  the  valuable  constituents  and 
free  them  from  those  that  are  harmful, 
until,  finally,  she  understands  how  to 
select  food  so  as  to  secure  for  her  chil- 
dren, when  they  come  to  set  out  in  the 
world  for  themselves,  good  digestion, 
sound  nerves  and  robust  constitutions. 

Only  a  few  days  ago  a  well-dressed 
young  woman,  in  passing  us  on  the  street, 
said  to  the  young  man  by  her  side,  "Isn't 
it  funny  that,  now  that  I  have  had  some- 
thing to  eat,  I  don't  feel  cold  in  the  least." 
Surely  the  young  woman  who  sees  no 
other  relation  than  a  "funny"  one  be- 
tween food  and  the  heat  of  the  body  is 
not  very  well-equipped  to  take  charge  of 
the  feeding  of  growing  children. 

In  Collier  s  JVeekly  a  letter  from  a 
Missouri  "Poor  Man's  Wife"  was  printed 
recently,  showing  how  she  and  her  hus- 
band had  lived  on  $600  a  year.  The 
outlay  for  food  was  given  as  $99.00,  thus 
making  the  average  cost  of  each  meal 
about  nine  cents.  To  preserve  health  on 
an  outlay  for  two  individuals  of  only 
nine  cents  a  meal,  it  is  absolutely 
necessary  that  she  who  expends  the 
money  have  some  knowledge  of  food 
composition,  and,  also,  be  able  to  spend 


388 


FOOD  AND  ECONOMY 


389 


time  in  an  effort  to  present  the  food  in 
a  palatable  form.  That  this  thing  be 
possible  in  New  England  we  doubt.  In 
Missouri  it  may  be  done,  but  would  not 
this  couple  have  gained  a  higher  efficiency 
on  a  more  generous  diet?  After  matur- 
ity one  may  "get  along,"  for  a  time,  on  an 
insufficiency  of  any  one  of  the  necessary 
food  principles,  but  such  procedure  in- 
vites an  attack  from  every  sort  of  dis- 
ease, and  is  a  constant  menace  to  health.. 
The  question  should  be,  does  it  pay,  on 
an  income  of  $600  a  year,  to  sail  in  the 
matter  of  food  quite  so  close  to  the  reef 
of  physical  wreckage? 

In  regard  to  the  food  supply  of  an- 
other family,  described  in  a  later  num- 
ber of  the  same  paper,  nothing  but  con- 
demnation can  be  expressed.  Lack  of 
knowledge  can  be  the  only  excuse  for 
this  case,  for  the  letter  was  written  evid- 
ently with  the  expectation  that  the 
writer  would  be  praised  and  commended 
for  her  business  ability  as  shown  in  the 
feeding  of  her  family.  Women  have  got 
to  learn  that  judicious  buying  of  essen- 
tials and  not  going  without  is  true  econ- 
omy. 

The  latter  family  consists  of  husband 
and  wife  and  four  children  under  four- 
years  of  age.  The  salary  is  $55.00  per 
month  and  free  rent  of  a  five  room 
house.  Out  of  this  salary  $35.00  are 
deposited  in  the  bank  each  month,  leav- 
ing $20.00  a  month  for  living  expenses. 
This  $20.00  covers,  besides  the  cost  of 
food,  the  following  items  per  year :  city 
water,  $5.00;  telephone,  $15.00;  two 
daily  papers,  $8.32;  two  magazines, 
$8.50;  life  insurance,  $5.00;  and  fuel 
(gas)  from  $0.18  to  $3.00  per  month. 
A  simple  example  in  arithmetic  discloses 
the  amazing  fact  that  $16.50  is  left  for 
food  and  fuel  per  month.  Her^  are  the 
weakly  items  of  food :  One  pound  of 
butter,  .30;  one  pound  of  lard,  .15;  one- 
half  bushel  of  potatoes,  .32>^  ;  milk  daily, 
.08;  meat  (round  steak,  veal  or  pork), 
.15.  Breakfast  consists  of  griddle  cakes 
and  coffee,  with  milk  and  sugar.     "We 


all"  (four  children  under  four  years  of 
age?)  "drink  tea  and  coffee  with  milk 
and  sugar."  Griddle  cakes  and  coffee 
for  a  child's  breakfast!  Tea  and  coffee 
for  children  of  four  years  and  younger ! 
The  "last  word"  on  food  has  not  yet  been 
said  or  written.  The  women's  clubs  have 
still  missionary  work  to  do  in  teaching 
women  how  to  feed  children. 

One  of  the  daily  papers  or  one  of 
the  two  magazines  taken  by  this  family 
better  be  exchanged  for  a  culinary  pub- 
lication. Is  it  a  mark  of  true  economy 
to  save  $35.00  per  month,  when,  in  order 
to  do  so,  one's  children  are  liable  to  be 
handicapped  by  poor  health  .  in  the 
struggle  to  earn  a  living,  or  perhaps  be- 
come a  future  charge  to  the  State  ? 

On  every  hand  are  seen  young  men 
and  women  failures,  a  disappointment  to 
themselves  and  their  friends,  who  bit- 
terly complain  because  of  under  nutri- 
tion during  the  formative  period  of  life ; 
they  are  already  hampered  in  their  am- 
bitions by  chronic  ill  health,  anaemia,  the 
incipient  stages  of  tuberculosis  and  other 
wasting  diseases.  No  patent  medicines 
nor  abundance  of  food,  later  on  in  Hfe, 
will  make  up  for  the  deficiency  of  build- 
ing material  during  the  time  of  cellular 
or  tissue  formation. 

What  are  proper  building  materials, 
one  may  ask?  Milk  should  be  the  sole 
food  for  the  first  year  of  childhood, 
and  it  should  be  provided  liberally 
during  the  whole  period  of  childhood, 
especially  if  eggs  and  meat-broths  are 
not  available  as  supplementary  foods. 
Towards  the  end  of  the  first  year  care- 
fully cooked  cereals,  light,  well-baked, 
homemade  bread  with  plenty  of  butter, 
fresh  soft-cooked  eggs,  and  well  skimmed 
meat-broths  should  be  added.  At  about 
three  years  of  age  fresh  fish  or  tender 
meat,  cut  in  tiny  bits,  baked  potatoes, 
well-mashed,  spinach,  celery  and  green 
peas  in  the  form  of  purees,  an  occasional 
slice  of  carefully-cooked  bacon,  baked 
apples,  cooked  prunes  and  dates  with 
fresh  fruit  juice  may  be  given  in  small 


390 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


quantities.  Boys  and  girls  of  Grammar 
and  High  School  age  require  as  much 
food  as  a  man  at  vigorous  work,  and  the 
food  to  satisfy  must  have  flavor  and 
relish. 

But  how  about  the  nourishment  of  this 
mother  with  four  children  under  four 
years  of  age?  Are  not  prenatal  condi- 
tions    the     predisposing     occasions     of 


healthful  offspring  or  the  reverse? 
Money  in  the  bank  for  the  inevitable 
rainy  day  is  a  condition  devoutly  to  be 
desired,  but  why  push  the  saving  habit 
to  such  an  extent  as  to  speedily  bring 
about  the  rainy  day?  Let  us  not  live  to 
eat,  but  certainly  let  us  eat  in  order  that 
we  may  live  efficient  lives. 


Lessons  m  Elementary  Cooking 

By  Mary  Chandler  Jones 

Teacher    of    Cookery    in   the    Public    Schools    of    Brookline,    Mass. 
LESSON   Fill 


Fish 

BY  the  term  fish  we  mean  sea  food 
in  general,  though  mollusks  (clams 
and  oysters)  and  lobsters  are 
classed  as  shell-iish.  Fish  are  divided 
into  two  great  classes,  from  the  waters 
where  they  are  found,  whether  such 
waters  be  fresh  or  salt.  Inland,  at  some 
distance  from  the  ocean,  the  kinds  of 
fish  that  are  caught  in  brooks  and  lakes 
are  much  more  attractive  than  those  that 
must  be  carried  for  a  long  distance. 
Fish  spoils  much  more  quickly  than  meat 
and  must,  therefore,  be  very  fresh  to  be 
in  perfect  condition  for  use  as  food. 
Fish  will  keep  much  longer  and  be  of 
better  value  if  carefully  handled  after 
being  caught,  and  especially  if  they  are 
killed  quickly,  instead  of  being  allowed 
to  die  slowly.  This  is  a  fact  worth 
knowing  from  the  point  of  view  of 
humanity  as  well  as  in  the  interests  of 
proper  food.  There  are  three  tests  for 
freshness  of  fish : 

1.  The  flesh  must  be  firm,  especially 
along  the  back-bone. 

2.  The  gills  must  be  red  and  bright. 

3.  The  eyes  should  be  full  and  clear. 
If  the  dealer  has  cut  ofif  the  head  of  a 

fish  which  might  naturally  be  sold  whole, 
it  is  safe  to  question  its  freshness. 


Fish  may  also  be  divided  into  dark  and 
light-fleshed  fish.  In  the  former  class 
we  find  the  fat  distributed  throughout 
the  whole  body,  while  in  the  latter  it  is 
collected  in  the  liver.  (Examples  of 
dark-fleshed,  oily  fish  may  be  salmon  and 
mackerel,  and  of  light-fleshed,  cod  and 
haddock.  "Cod-liver  oil"  is  not  an  un- 
known substance  to  many  pupils.)      ' 

Before  beginning  the  actual  cooking  of 
our  fish,  let  us  try  a  few  experiments  to 
.find  out  its  composition  and,  therefore, 
the  proper  temperature  for  its  cooking. 
Let  us  remember  some  of  the  facts  we 
have  already  learned  about  albumin,  in 
our  study  of  eggs  and  milk.  (Review, 
with  quick  questions,  the  effect  of  cold 
and  hot  water  upon  the  white  of  ^gg  and 
the  temperature  at  which  the  ^gg  was 
found  to  be  best  cooked.  Recall,  also, 
the  fact  that  milk  is  scalded  and  not 
boiled.) 

Experiments  with  Fish 

I.  Compare  the  appearance,  both  in 
color  and  consistency  of  cooked  and  un- 
cooked fish.  Compare  each  with  albumin 
as  seen  in  the  white  of  tgg. 

II.  Put  a  small  piece  of  fish,  cut  into 
bits,  into  one-half  a  cup  of  cold  water. 
(A  piece  of  fish  one  inch  square  is 
sufficient.)     Let  it  stand  several  minutes. 


LESSONS   IN   ELEMENTARY   COOKING 


391 


then  carefully  strain  the  water.  (Filter 
paper  is  best  for  this,  if  it  be  obtainable.) 
If  well  strained  the  water  will  be  very 
clear.  In  what  state  must  any  sub- 
stance be,  if  present?  Heat  this  water 
and  notice  the  white,  milky  appearance  at 
a  low  temperature.  Heat  to  boiling  and 
observe  how  the  albumin  gathers  together 
into  tough  flakes,  separating  from  the 
water.  Why  should  not  fish  be  washed 
in  cold  water? 

III.  Plunge  a  piece  of  fish  (an  inch 
cube)  into  boiling,  salted  water  and 
notice  the  instantaneous  whitening  of  the 
surface  of  the  fish.  Remove  from  the 
boiling  water,  after  one  minute,  and 
examine  the  inner  fibres.  How  deeply 
has  the  heat  penetrated?  Replace  the 
fish  in  the  water  and  continue  the  boil- 
ing. What  changes  take  place  in  the 
consistency  of  the  fish? 

IV.  Plunge  a  piece  of  fish  into  boiling 
water  and,  after  it  is  thoroughly  covered 
with  the  layer  of  whitened,  thickened 
albumin,  lower  the  heat  and  cook  below 
the  boiling  point  until  it  is  flaky,  but  not 
broken.  W^hat  will  the  quick  cooking  of 
the  outer  surface  prevent,  as  concerns 
the  inner  juices?  Compare  these  results 
with  those  in  Experiment  III.  Notice, 
in  that  piece  of  the  fish,  that  while  the 
fibres  fall  apart  because  the  connective 
tissue  has  been  broken  and  dissolved  by 
the  heat  and  motion  of  the  rapid  boiling, 
still  each  individual  fibre  is  tough  and 
tasteless. 

In  cooking  fish  we  may  desire  to  do 
any  one  of  three  things : 

1.  To  retain  the  juices. 

2.  To  extract  the  juices. 

3.  To  retain  and  extract  the  juices. 
The   first   object. may  be   attained   by 

four  methods : 

L  Cooking  in  hot  water.  (Popularly 
called  "boiling  fish" — why  not  correctly 
so  named?) 

2.  Broiling. 

3.  Frying  and  sauteing. 

4.  Baking. 

The  second  is  the  method  used  in  pre- 


paring soups  and  broths,  where  the  fish 
is  not  to  be  eaten  at  all,  but  only  the 
extracted  juice.  Clam  bouillon  is  a  good 
example. 

The  third  object  is  illustrated  by  fish 
stew,  more  commonly  known  as  chowder. 

Let  the  pupils  tell,  in  the  light  of  the 
previous  experiments,  how  each  of  these 
methods  accomplishes  its  purpose. 

General  Rules  for  the  Preparation 
of  Fish  for  Cooking 

Fish  must  be  perfectly  fresh  and  must 
be  kept  on  ice  or  in  as  cold  a  place  as 
possible  until  cooked. 

Wash  the  fish  both  inside  and  out 
with  a  cloth  dipped  often  in  clean  cold 
water.  If  the  fish  is  in  slices  or  ''steaks," 
be  especially  careful  not  to  waste  the 
juices   in  cleansing. 

There  are  many  kinds  of  fish,  cut  in 
a  variety  of  ways  for  different  methods 
of  cookery.  In  general,  a  medium-sized 
fish,  or  a  piece  cut  from  the  middle  of  a 
large  one,  may  be  used  for  cooking  in 
water.  Fish  are  often  baked  whole. 
Small  fish  are  used  for  frying  and  broil- 
ing and  ''steaks"  of  larger  fish  are 
sauted  and  broiled. 

Fish  Cooked  in  Water 

Prepare  the  fish  by  the  general  rule. 
Weigh  it.  Lay  it  on  a  plate  and  tie  both 
in  a  piece  of  boiled  cheese  cloth.  Plunge 
it  into  boiling  water,  which  contains  salt 
and  vinegar  or  lemon  juice.  Be  sure 
that  there  is  water  enough  to  cover  the 
fish.  The  amount  of  salt  and  vinegar 
must  be  proportionate  to  the  quantity  of 
water.  Let  the  fish  boil  one  minute,  then 
lower  the  heat  and  cook  below  the  boil- 
ing point,  fifteen  minutes  for  each 
pound  and  about  ten  minutes  extra,  to 
allow  for  the  heating  through  of  the 
whole  piece.  Remove  from  the  water 
when  white  and  flaky  and  take  off  the 
skin,  if  that  can  be  done  without  break- 
ing the  flesh.  Serve  hot  with  an  egg 
sauce.  (The  fish  may  be  garnished  with 
well-prepared  parsley.) 


2>^2 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


The  salt  and  vinegar  are  added  to  the 
water  in  which  the  fish  is  cooked,  to  give 
flavor,  to  help  keep  the  flesh  white  and 
to  help  in  retaining  the  juices  and  in 
preventing  the  breaking  of  the  flesh. 

The  Qgg  sauce  is  simply  a  modification 
of  white  sauce,  to  which  has  been  added 
a  hard-cooked  Qgg,  cut  into  small  pieces. 
For  the  liquid  of  this  white  sauce,  in 
place  of  a  part  of  the  milk,  some  of  the 
*'hsh-stock"  may  be  used.  In  that  case 
it  is  better,  perhaps,  to  omit  the  cloth  in 
cooking  the  fish. 

Let  the  pupils  report  upon  the  ''fish 
stock"  (the  water  in  which  the  fish  was 


cooked.)  What  advantage  is  there  in 
using  this  for  the  liquid,  in  part  or  in 
whole,  for  the  Qgg  sauce?  What  dis- 
advantage in  using  it  for  the  whole 
liquid?  What  is  the  necessity  for  a 
sauce  rich  in  butter  with  a  white-fleshed 
fish?  What  is  the  disadvantage  and 
lack  of  economy  in  this  method  of  cook- 
ing fish  ?  Which  would  be  better,  cooked 
in  water,  a  piece  of  haddock  or  a  piece 
of   salmon?     Why? 

W>  shall  continue  our  study  of  fish 
with  a  consideration  of  other  methods 
of  cookery,  of  dried  and  salt  fish  and  of 
how  to  use  some  left-overs. 


The  Light  Suppers  of  the  French 

By   Frances    Sheafer   Waxman 


NO-  nation  on  earth  understands 
belter  than  the  French  the  art  of 
designing  a  lunch  or  a  dinner, 
and  yet,  curiously  enough,  their  late 
suppers  are  rather  mondescript  affairs, 
not  at  all  thought  out  or  "created"  like 
the  two  principal  meals  of  the  day. 
Long  established  custom  has  no  doubt  a 
good  deal  to  do  with  the  French  way  of 
regarding  the  several  repasts,  and  it 
would  indeed  be  something  of  a  task  to 
design  three  succeeding  meals  of  the 
type  of  the  French  lunch  and  dinner, 
more  particularly  the  dinner,  which  is 
the  relaxing  moment,  the  time  of  great- 
est enjoyment  of  all  the  twenty-four 
hours. 

The  French  dinner  is  as  a  rule  both 
gastronomically  and  aesthetically  satis- 
fying, and  these  people  cherish  too  dearly 
their  finer  sensations  to  wish  to  spoil  a 
complete  success  of  any  kind  by  an  anti- 
climax. It  is,  therefore,  a  trifle,  an 
affair  of  art,  vvith  them  that  the  arrange- 
ment of  their  meals  does  not  allow  a 
place  in  the  scheme  for  a  very  elaborate 
late  supper.     The  "little"  breakfast,  the 


lunch  and  the  ''gouter"  all  lead  up  to 
the  dinner,  and  whatever  is  eaten  after 
the  dinner  must,  logically,  be  delicate 
and  extremely  well  chosen.  The  heavy 
"Dufch"  supper,  Vv^hich  sometimes  follows 
a  theatre  party  in  America,  would  be 
considered  here  a  sort  of  aesthetic  '^^cri- 
lege — while,  on  the  other  hand,  il  re- 
quires a  long  foreign  residence  to  satisfy 
a  luxury-loving  American  with  a  glass  of 
liqueur  and  a  few  nuts  as  a  "night-cap." 
The  amount  of  time  any  French  person 
can  consume  in  absorbing  an  aperitif  is 
an  international  joke;  and,  given  the 
genius  for  making  things  last,  the  French 
can  also  get  as  much  entertainment  out 
of  a  delicate  late  supper  as  they  really 
wish,  or  need — the  fact  being  that  many 
other  sensations  than  that  of  a  satisfied 
appetite  must  contribute  to  their  enjo}-- 
ment.  The  French  are  ever  looking  for 
"nuances"  in  their  pleasures,  and  tradi- 
tion helps  them  to  be  satisfied  with  what 
they  believe  to  be  satisfying.  "Paris  by 
Night"  has  for  so  long  stood  for  the 
epitome  of  all  possible  after-dinner 
gaiety   that   the   breath   of   its   nocturnal 


THE  LIGHT  SUPPERS  OF  THE  FRENXH 


393 


air  alone  is  often  sufficiently  stimulating 
to  the  native  French  man  or  woman, 
without  other  material  aids.  Its  every 
aspe'ct  intoxicates  them,  and  when  they 
return  from  their  vacations,  they  will 
look  out  of  their  tram  windows  upon 
the  dullest  streets,  and,  with  a  little 
flutter  of  excitement,  they  will  tell  you 
that  ''Paris  is  so  gay  at  night!" 

In  many  ways  the  French  are  a  child- 
like people.  The  inherited  reputation  of 
their  beloved  capital  is  one  of  their 
legacies ;  and,  though  you  know  it  to  be 
stupid  like  any  other  city  in  spots,  you 
would  never  hurt  their  sublime  faith 
by  telling  them  so.  After  all,  imagina- 
tion is  a  blessed  gift,  and  the  practical 
American  need  not  entirely  despise 
"Johnny  Crapaud"  for  using  this  piquant 
sauce  to  help  along  his  enjoyments — in- 
stead of  a  Welsh  rarebit. 

That  English  and  American  concoc- 
tion is,  by  the  way,  almost  unknown  in 
France.  There  are  one  or  two  English 
houses  in  Paris  which  serve  it,  but  I 
have  yet  to  see  a  French  person  order  it. 
Hot  things  are  not  popular  any  way  for 
late  suppers  here.  A  late  supper  may 
'  ■  'lude  any  of  the  hors  d'oeiivres, 
smoked  sausages  in  very  thin  slices,  occa- 
sionally lobster,  which  is  very  good  in 
France,  sardines  or  pickled  herring;  but 
more  often  the  "snack''  is  made  up 
simply  of  sandwiches  and  something  to 
drink.  It  is  seldom  more  elaborate  than 
that,  and  frequently  it  is  simpler  still,  a 
glass  of  sweet  wine  or  cordial,  some 
pctits  fours,  or  the  mixture  of  nuts  and 
raisins  known  here  for  some  inexplic- 
able reason  as  "mendiants."  In  warm 
weather  you  may  see  a  party  at  any 
restaurant  making  merry,  the  men  over 
their  beer  and  the  women  with  their  ices. 
That  is  enough  to  satisfy  a  thirst,  and 
after  all  the  occasion  is  not  so  much  one 
to  satisfy  physical  hunger  as  an  oppor- 
tunity for  pleasant,  sprightly  companion- 
ship. 

The     light     refreshments     which     the 
French    serve    in    their    own    homes    at 


small  evening  entertainments  are  looked 
on  in  much  the  same  way.  Among  the 
intellectual  set  in  Paris  evening  tea 
parties  are  quite  common,  although  tea 
after  dinner,  by  some  prejudice,  seems 
an  anomoly  to  an  Anglo-Saxon.  The 
French,  however,  have  adopted  the 
custom  of  evening  tea  drinking  in  the 
bHssful  belief  that  they  are  being  very 
English.  They  can  no  more  accept  entire 
a  foreign  mode  than  they  can  a  foreign 
word.  It  is  on  record  here  in  Paris  that 
a  certain  French  professor,  who  has 
given  lectures  at  Harvard  University, 
can  never  bring  himself  to  write  the  name 
of  Cambridge  college  as  it  is  really 
spelled.  According  to  his  notion  the 
word  should  be  Harward,  and  so  he 
writes  it.  Therefore,  if  the  French  have 
accepted  the  English  convivial  beverage, 
that  is  the  most  any  one  could  ask  of 
them ;  it  would  be  folly  to  insist  on  their 
accepting  it  without  reserves  or  altera- 
tions. The  evening  tea  party  is  a  French 
adaptation  of  the  English  "^  o'clock." 
You  go  and  you  sit  down  in  a  pleasant 
little  salon  with  some  ten  or  twelve  other 
persons.  You  are  served  almost  immedi- 
ately with  your  tea — chocolate,  if  you 
prefer — thin  bread  and  butter  sandwiches, 
called  here  tartines,  and  a  variety  of 
small  sweet  cakes.  You  are  always  given 
a  perfectly  new  fringed  napkin  folded  flat 
and  very  glossy.  I  have  never  been  able 
to  account  satisfactorily  for  those  nap- 
kins, but  I  have  a  suspicion,  since  I  have 
never  seen  any  one  use  them,  that  they 
do  a  sort  of  perennial  duty.  Clean  nap- 
kins are  regarded  as  a  luxury  anywhere 
in   France. 

Though  the  refreshments  on  these 
occasions  are  the  simplest,  the  conver- 
sation may  be  an  intellectual  treat,  and 
since  it  was.  after  all,  for  the  truly 
French,  scintillating  interchange  of  ideas 
that  you  were  invited,  the  "soiree''  is 
generally  an  entire  success. 

If  the  invitation  argues  a  more  pre- 
tentious entertainment  with  perhaps 
music,  the  refreshments   will  be  corres- 


394 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


pondingly  more  elaborate,  pate  de  foie 
gras  sandwiches,  coffee  and  liqueurs 
being  added  to  the  simpler  tea  party 
menus.  And  even  at  a  function,  with 
the  addition  of  ices  and  champagne,  this 
is  all  you  will  get  to  eat.  I  have  seen 
the  President  of  the  Republic  at  a  quite 
chic  ball  offered  these  same  refreshments. 
As  a  matter  of  fact  they  are  enough, 
and  no  one  sleeps  the  better  for  a 
lobster  or  a  chicken-salad  supper. 

Though  the  French  evening  refresh- 
ments are  so  simple,  they  are  much  more 
inevitably  a  component  part  of  any  after- 
dinner  entertainment  in  France  than  they 
are  with  us  in  America,  perhaps  because 
of  their  simplicity.  An  after-theatre  re- 
past at  home  means  the  expenditure  of  at 
least  several  dollars.  In  France  it  may 
easily  mean  less  than  several  francs,  with 
a  correspondingly  better  digestion  and  a 
heavier  pocket  book. 

No  good  French  person,  above  all  no 
true  Parisian  would  think  of  returning 
home  from  the  theatre  or  from'  a  con- 
cert without  stopping  somewhere  along 
the  boulevardes  for  a  glass  of  beer  or 
liquor.  It  is  the  finishing  touch  to  their 
fete,  without  which  the  evening's  enter- 
tainment would  not  be  complete.  In  our 
American  cities,  where  there  are  fewer 
cafes  patronized  by  respectable  people, 
and  where  the  price  for  the  simplest 
supper  is  about  triple  what  it  would  be 
in  France,  w^e  may  often  hesitate  before 
we  decide  that  we  will  celebrate  to  such 
an  extent,  and  so  we  go  home  supperless. 

The  French,  in  common  with  all  Con- 
tinental peoples,  have  the  agreeable  habit 
of  serving  light  refreshments  at  most 
of  their  concerts,  and  at  their  music  hall 
performances.  There  are  a  number  of 
excellent  evening  concerts  given  in  Paris, 
the    price    for    seats    varying    from    one 


franc  twenty-five  to  three  francs,  accord- 
ing to  their  location;  and  this  modest 
charge  includes  also  a  "consommation," 
the  list  of  beverages  served  being  nearly 
all  those  available  at  most  cafes,  includ- 
ing also  tea  and  coffee  and  brandied 
cherries. 

The  latter  confection,  served  in  small 
sherbert  glasses  is  considered  the  lady- 
like "treat"  of  the  French  jeiine  fille 
completing  her  musical  education  with 
a  concert  course.  The  programmes  of 
these  concerts  are  of  the  best,  and  I 
know  of  no  more  satisfactory  way  to 
pass  an  evening,  at  so  trifling  an  expend- 
iture, anywhere. 

The  French  temperance  in  the  matter 
of  evening  eating  has  just  two  excep- 
tions during  the  year,  and  these  only  a 
week  apart.  They  are  the  reveillons  of 
Christmas  and  New  Year's  Eves.  Both 
are  occasions  for  a  most  unusual  feast- 
ing. At  midnight  every  French  person, 
who  can  afford  to  do  so,  sups  en  ville. 
Tables  are  reserved  weeks  in  advance  at 
the  very  chic  restaurants,  and  the  more 
popular  the  establishment,  the  gayer  the 
assemblage,  the  more  elegant  the  gown- 
ing of  the  women  patrons.  The  midnight 
spread  is  elaborate  and  it  is  served  with 
an  abundance  of  champagne.  It  will  be 
made  up  of  all  sorts  of  pates  and  meat 
loaves  done  in  fancy  jellies,  all  the  hors 
d'oeiivres,  lobster  with  mayonnaise,  fowl, 
game,  in  short  all  the  delicacies  of  the 
French  table.  Only  twice  during  the 
twelve  months,  the  French  ''font  la 
bombs''  as  consistently  and  thoroughly  at 
midnight  as  ever  we  could  with  our 
Welsh  rarebits  and  our  lobster  New- 
burgs — but  they  give  their  much-prized 
digestions  eleven  months  in  which  to  re- 
cover from  the  shock. 


Co  ntnbuticns    to  this   department  wil      be  gladly  received.     Accepted  items   will  be 

paid  for  at  reasonable  rates. 


Mock  Angel  Food  Cake 

I  MAKE  a  mock  angel  food  cake,  that 
we  think  is  very  dehcious,  even 
more  so  than  the  regular  angel  food, 
and  with  quite  an  economy  of  eggs. 

I  set  a  cup  of  milk  in  a  double  boiler 
and  heat  to  boiling  point.  Put  into  a 
sifter  one  cup  of  flour,  one  cup  of  sugar, 
three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder  and 
a  pinch  of  salt.  Sift  four  times.  Into 
this  pour  the  cup  of  boiling  milk  and 
stir  smooth.  Then  fold  in  the  whites 
of  two  eggs,  beaten  dry.  Fold  them  in 
carefully,  drawing  spoon  through  the 
mixture  toward  you,  then  push  it  back 
with  back  of  spoon,  then  draw  it  from 
right  to  left  and  push  back.  Repeat  un- 
til the  whites  are  evenly  folded  into  bat- 
ter. Do  not  grease  tin  or  flavor  cake, 
and  bake  in  moderate  oven.  c.  w.  m. 
*  ^  * 

Lady  Baltimore  Cake 

MAY  I  say  that  in  my  house  we  have 
a  rule  less  expensive,  which  was 
used  by  my  grandmother  "when  eggs 
were  high,"  and  when  I  was  a  little 
girl  eggs  were  high  in  the  Baltimore 
markets  at  25"  cents  a  dozen.  Then,  too, 
there  were  a  goodly  number  of  grand- 
children always  at  home  for  the  holidays 
and  all  festive  occasions.  I  have  no 
doubt  the  same  conditions  exist  in  many 
homes  where  your  magazine  is  read,  and 
with  eggs  at  42  cents  a  dozen.  Lady 
Baltimore  is  a  very  expensive  article. 
My  rule  is,  one-half  a  cup  of  butter 
worked  to  a  smooth  cream;  one  cup 
of    granulated    sugar    (sifted),    creamed 


with  butter  until  very  light;  three  yolks 
of  eggs,  beaten  into  the  cream;  one-half 
a  cup  of  milk  and  water  (equal  parts)  ; 
two  cups  of  sifted  flour,  sifted  again 
with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking 
powder;  one  teaspoonful  of  rosewater; 
one  teaspoonful  of  almond  flavoring; 
three  whites  of  egg,  stiff-beaten  and 
folded  in  the  mixture  and  then  beaten 
for  two  minutes,  only  never  stirred.  Turn 
into  three  layer  pans  and  bake  a  delicate 
brown  in  a  quick  oven.  For  the  filling 
take  two  cups  of  granulated  sugar,  and 
eight  tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  water; 
let  stand  in  a  warm  place  until  the  sugar 
is  dissolved,  then  boil  until  the  syrup 
will  spin  a  thread  an  inch  in  length ; 
pour  on  the  stiff-beaten  whites  of  two 
eggs.  When  cool  pour  half  the  icing 
into  a  bowl  containing  half  a  cup  of 
seeded  raisins,  half  a  cup  of  walnut 
meats,  broken  in  small  pieces,  three  figs, 
chopped  fine,  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice  and  a  little  grated  lemon  rind. 
Spread  the  layers  and  top  with  the  fruit 
mixture,  then  cover  the  top  and  side 
with  plain  frosting.  Decorate  with  wal- 
nut meats  and  raisins.  \\'ith  the  two 
egg-yolks  I  make  either  mayonnaise 
dressing  qt  Floradora  buns.  In  using 
the  rule  for  date  loaf,  published  in  April, 
the  cake  was  pronounced  good  but  sticky. 
The  next  time  I  added  one  tablespoonful 
of  water  to  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  the 
beaten  white  of  one  egg,  mixing  them 
thoroughly,  then  added  the  remaining 
whites  and  my  cake  was  much  better. 

Hoping  you  will  pardon  my  assurance 
in  sending  this,  I  am.  c.  a.  a. 


)95 


396 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


Celery  Relish 

PLACE  one-half  a  box  of  gelatine  in 
a  dish.  Add  enough  water,  from 
a  pint  of  water,  to  cover  it.  Let  stand 
twenty  minutes.  Heat  the  remainder  of 
the  pint  of  water  to  boiling,  and  pour 
over  the  dissolved  gelatine.  While  hot 
add  the  juice  of  two  lemons  and  one- 
half  a  cup  of  sugar.  Let  cool.  Then 
add  one  tablespoonful  of  strong  horse- 
radish (use  the  fresh-grated  root)  and 
a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper.  Color  a  light 
green.  When  almost  ready  to  set  add 
one  cup  of  celery,  cut  in  small  pieces. 
Set  in  icebox  to  harden. 

Mold  in  pan  6  :^  9  inches  or  in  indi- 
vidual molds  (I  use  the  pan),  and  when 
cold  cut  in  squares,  li  served  with 
roast  leg  of  lamb  add  scant  teaspoonful 
of  essence  of  spearmint.  This  relish  is 
both  delicious  -and  attractive.  h.  j. 
^  *  * 

Croquette  Making 

LONG  practice  in  croquette  making 
for  a  large  family  who  are  fond  of 
croquettes,  has  led  me  to  economize  the 
time  spent  in  their  manufacture  in  every 
possible  way.  There  are  many  rules  for 
them  in  the  cook  books  and  cooking 
magazines,  but  one  does  not  always  have 
enough  time  at  one's  disposal  to  follow 
the  conventional  directions.  I  have 
learned,  by  long  practice,  one  or  two 
points  in  which  time  is  gained.  The  fol- 
lowing recipes  for  croquettes  are  fav- 
orites with  us,  and  are  somewhat  dif- 
ferent from  the  ordinary  varieties  as  to 
the  general  process.  Carry  on  the  whole 
manufacture  in  fours,  and  many  mo- 
tions of  your  hands  are  saved'  Put  the 
crumbs  in  a  small,  deep  pie  plate,  the 
beaten  egg  in  another;  with  a  fork  toss 
four  shapes  of  croquette  mixture  in  the 
crumbs;  roll  them  about,  with  almost 
one  motion  of  the  hand ;  remove  to  the 
egg.  which  can  be  thrown  over  them  all 
almost  at  once,  and  then  the  four  are 
back  in  the  crumbs  again,  the  final  roll- 
ing  and    shaping   being   with   the    finger 


tips  on  a  small  board  directly  in  front 
of  you.  In  almost  no  time  the  dozen, 
sixteen  or  twenty  (in  my  case,  two  dozen 
or  more)  will  be  done.  Try  the  "four" 
method  once,  and  you  will  never  go  back 
to  the  unnecessary  motions,  necessary  in 
crumbing,  egging,  and  re-crumbing  and 
rolling  them,  tediously,  one  by  one ! 
Also,  in  spite  of  the  general  idea  to  the 
contrary,  six  or  seven  can  be  fried  at 
once,  perfectly  well,  the  secret  of  suc- 
cess is,  that  the  fat  must  be  very  hot. 
This  shortens,  materially,  the  time  spent 
in  frying. 

I  would  also  suggest,  that  when  eggs 
are  dear,  the  "one  tablespoonful  of 
water  to  each  egg,"  allowed  in  the  cook 
books,  can  be  almost  indefinitely  ex- 
tended, with  no  difference  in  the  pro- 
cess of  frying,  or  the  appearance  of  the 
croquette.  Nearly  as  much  water  as  tgg 
can  be  used.  Practice  will  enable  one  to 
add  the  amount  of  water  to  the  egg,  to 
correspond  with  the  amount  of  cro- 
quette mixture.  So  that  none  of  egg  and 
water  is  wasted. 

White    Sauce    for   Any    Kind    of 
Croquettes 


pint    of 
milk 
4 


cream    or 


of 


2  teaspoonfuls 
I       butter 
even    tablespoonfuls    of    flour 

Melt  the  butter;  stir  the  flour  smooth- 
ly in ;  add  the  milk  or  cream  nearly,  but 
not  quite,  at  the  boiling  point ;  stir  until 
smooth ;  let  it  boil  for  two  or  three  min- 
utes, until  very  thick.  Add  salt,  paprika, 
or  a  few  grains  of  cayenne,  and  a  little 
celery  salt.  This  is  the  plain  foundation 
sauce  for  any  kind  of  croquettes.  Add 
special  seasoning  for  the  dififerent  kinds. 

Four  level  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  to  a  pint 
of  milk  will  not  make  a  thick  white  sauce 
such  as  is  used  for  croquettes.  Probably  the 
"even"  spoonful,  designated,  corresponds  to  the 
spoonful,  rounding  as  much  above  as  the 
spoon  extends  below  the  level.  This  would 
give  the  consistency  considered  desirable  in 
a  croquette  foundation.  By  milk  "nearly,  but 
not  quite,  at  the  boiling  point."  scalded  milk 
is  evidently  intended-  The  last  part  of  the 
milk  might  be  added  hot,  but  certainly  the 
first  part  of  the  milk,  poured  onto  the  hot 
flour  and  butter,   should  be  cold. — Editor. 


HOME   IDEAS   AND    ECONOMIES 


397 


Sui'prise  Croquettes 


1  pint  of  hot  mashed 

potato 
Yolk   of   one   egg 
1     tablespoonful     of 

butter 


Salt,  cayenne,   celery 

salt  to  taste 
A  few  drops  of  onion 

juice,     or     chopped 

chives 


A  little   chopped  parsley 

Beat  until  very  smooth  and  light. 
Take  half  a  dozen  small  cold  sausages, 
cut  them  in  halves,  and  mould  a  half  in 
the  centre  of  each  croquette,  entirely 
covering  with  the  potato.  Shape  into 
rolls  and  crumb,  egg-and-crumb,  as 
above. 

Cheese   Croquettes   to   Serve   ^Wth 
Salad 

Make  a  thick  white  sauce,  as  above. 
Season  with  salt,  a  bit  of  cayenne,  and 
mustard.  ]Melt  in  it  one-half  cup  of  any 
good  rich  cheese,  cut  into  dice;  beat  un- 
til smooth.  Remove  from  stove,  and  add 
the  beaten  yolk  of  one  egg.  Pour  into 
a  pieplate,  and  set  away  to  cool.  When. 
perfectly  cold,  it  will  be  stiff  enough  to 
mould,  form  into  small  rolls  and  crumb- 
and-egg.  as  above.  Cold  Welsh  rarebit 
may  be  used  instead  of  the  above  mix- 
ture. 

Salmon  Croquettes 

Free  a  can  of  salmon  from  skin  and 
bones.  Flake,  and  mix  with  white  sauce. 
Season  with  chopped  parsley  and 
chopped  chives,  if  at  hand;  salt  and  pep- 
per to  taste,  and  a  bit  of  cayenne.  Put 
away  to  cool  and  then  form  into  cro- 
quettes. A  fifteen-cent  can  will  make 
enough  for  a  dinner  for  a  large  family. 

Macaroni  Croquettes 
Break  macaroni  into  very  small  pieces 
and  boil  until  very  tender  in  salted  water. 
Drain,  and  mix  with  thick  white  sauce 
in  which  a  little  grated  or  diced  cheese 
has  been  melted.  Put  away  in  a  shallow 
plate  to  cool,  and  shape  and  prepare  in 
the  usual  manner. 

Surprise  Croquettes  Xo.  2 


Cook  eggs  in  the  shell  so  that  they 
will  be  soft,  but  the  whites  perfectly 
firm.  Chip  off  the  shell  carefully  when 
cool,  roll  in  beaten  egg,  which  has  been 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  in 
crumbs,  then  in  egg  and  crumbs  again. 
Fr}-  in  vers-  hot  fat,  and  garnish  with 
nasturtium  blossoms  and  leaves,  or  pars- 
ley. L.    E. 


*  *  * 


Suggestions  for  Cooking  at  High 
Altitudes 

1.  Longer  boiling  is  necessary  on  ac- 
count of  the  lower  degree  at  which  water 
boils;  the  time  varies  according  to  the 
altitude,  the  higher  the  altitude  the  lower 
the  degree  of  boiling. 

2.  Less  shortening  is  required.  Any 
of  the  recipes  for  cakes,  cookies,  baba, 
etc.,  given  in  the  Boston  Cooking-School 
Magazine  can  be  used  successfully  by 
simply  cutting  down  the  quantity  of  but- 
ter and  sugar  one-fourth. 

3.  The  quantity  of  baking  powder 
and  the  number  of  eggs  I  do  not  change, 
and  the  finished  products  are  invariably 
commended. 

4.  Syrups  for  sherberts.  candies,  etc., 
require  longer  boiling;  and  in  candy- 
making,  when  the  mixture  is  boiled 
enough,  the  thermometer  does  not  regis- 
ter as  high  as  at  sea  level.  Syrup  for 
icing  and  fondant  is  at  the  soft  ball  stage, 
when  the  thermometer  registers  from 
218°  F  to  222°  F. 

5.  In  making  ''Choice  Caramels"  (as 
in  Cooking  for  Tzi'o)  I  boil  to  230°  F. 
upward,  according  to  stiffness  desired 
in  the  caramels  and  the  season  of  the 
year. 

6.  Distilled  water  boils  at  204°  F. 
Hydrant  water  at  205"  F. 

7.  The  syrup  for  fruit  punch,  as 
given  on  page  58  in  Practical  Cooking 
and  Serznng,  which  reaches,  at  sea  level, 
a  density  of  35°  after  twenty  minutes' 
boiling,  requires  thirty-three  minutes' 
boiling.  The  time  is  varied  somewhat 
according  to  the  depth  of  the  syrup  in 


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THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


the  pan,  as  the  evaporation  depends  on 
the  amount  of  surface  exposed  as  well 
as  the  pressure  of  the  atmosphere. 

8.  Syrup  for  sherberts,  page  614 
Practical  Cooking  and  Serving,  which 
calls  for  twenty  minutes'  cooking,  re- 
quires thirty  minutes'  boiling  in  this  al- 
titude; or 

9.  One  pint  of  sugar  and  one  quart 
of  water  boiled  gently  thirty-three  min- 
utes produces  a  generous  cup  and  a  half 
of  syrup  of  a  density  of  35°. 

10.  High  altitude  sponge  cake :  Five 
eggs,  one  and  one-half  cups  of  pastry 
flour,  one  cup  of  sugar,  four  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  water,  one  teaspoonful,  slightly 
rounding,  of  baking  powder,  grated  rind 
and  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Beat  the 
yolks  ;  add  the  sugar,  water,  three-fourths 
of  the  flour,  the  lemon  juice  and  rind. 
Beat  thoroughly;  add. the  baking  powder 
and  the  rest  of  the  flour  and  fold  in 
lightly;  fold  in  the  whites,  beaten  dry, 
and  pour  into  an  unbuttered  cake  pan 
with  tube.  Bake  from  an  hour  to  an 
hour  and  a  half. 

11.  High  altitude  sunshine  cake: 
Yolks  of  ten  eggs  and  one  whole  tgg, 
beaten  very  light,  one  cup  of  granulated 
sugar,  beaten  into  the  eggs  with  beater, 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  water, 
poured  into  eggs  and  sugar,  one  cup  of 
flour,  sifted  with  one  level  teaspoonful 
of  baking  powder;  flavor  with  lemon 
and  vanilla.     Pour  into  a  dry,  cold  pan. 


long  and  narrow  in  shape. 

12.  Angel  cakelets :  Sift  together 
one-half  a  cup  of  flour  and  one-half  a 
cup  of  fine  granulated  sugar  (both  sifted 
five  times  before  measuring)  and  one- 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  cream-of-tartar ; 
fold  in  the  whites  of  five  eggs  beaten  dry ; 
flavor  with  one-half  a  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla  extract;  drop  from  a  spoon  upon 
buttered  paper  and  bake  from  ten  to 
twelve  minutes  in  a  slow  oven. 

13.  Sponge  drops:  Three  eggs,  one- 
half  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  one-half  a  cup 
of  sugar,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  vanilla,  one-half  a  cup  of  cake 
flour.  Beat  yolks  until  thick  and  creamy ; 
add  sugar  and  continue  beating;  add  the 
salt  to  the  whites  and  beat  until  dry ; 
fold  in  the  whites  and  the  flour;  drop 
the  mixture  gently  from  the  tip  of  a 
spoon  on  an  unbuttered  tin  sheet;  sprin 
kle  with  pulverized  sugar  and  bake  in  a 
cool  oven  about  eight  minutes.  Put  to- 
gether in  pairs  with  jelly  or  preserves 
between. 

14.  Before  cooking  meats  in  liquid 
(boiling,  en  casserole,  etc.),  sear  over 
the  outside  either  in  a  hot  oven  or  in 
the  frying  pan;  the  time  required  for 
this  will  depend  upon  the  degree  of  heat 
applied,  but  it  takes  longer  than  at  sea 
level  and  it  also  seems  to  be  more  neces- 
sary than  at  sea  level,  when  the  final 
cooking  is  to  be  conducted  with  moisture. 

MRS.    E.    F.    D. 


Spring 

By  Lalia  Mitchell 

I   can   not   say,   my   listening   ear    hath   heard, 
The  strange  elusive  birth  call  of   the  flower, 
I   can   not   know,    I'm   victim   to   the    power 

Of  song    that   fills   the  throat  of   homing  bird. 

I   am   not   sure   of    anything,   save   just 

That  earth  and  air  and  nature  "  Welcome !  "  cry, 
Fair    Spring,    you    come    a    priestess    from    on    high, 

And,  lo,  I  join  them,  just  because  I  must. 

I   have  no  knowledge  that  the   brooklet  brings 
A   message   fraught  with   mystery   and   grace, 
I    am   not   certain    that   a    fair,    new    face 

I  see  in  glade  and  glen,   familiar  things 

Familiar   are,    and    yet    my   blood   to-day 

Exultant    flows,    as    does    the    maples,    and 
We   neither   of    us    claim   to   understand 

Save  that  Spring  calls,  and  perforce,  we  obey. 


THIS  department  is  for  the  benefit  and  free  use  of  our  subscribers.  Questions  relating 
to  recipes,  and  those  pertaining  to  culinary  science  and  domestic  economics  in  general,  will 
be  cheerfully  answered  by  the  editor.  Communications  for  this  department  must  reach  us  before  the 
first  of  the  month  preceding  that  in  which  the  answers  are  expected  to  appear.  In  letters  requesting 
answers  by  mail,  please  enclose  addressed  and  stamped  envelope.  For  menus  remit  $1.00.  Address 
queries  to  Janet  M.  Hill,  editor,  Boston  Cookixg-School  Magazine,  372  Boylston  St.,  Boston,  Mass. 


Query  1695.  —  "Recipe  for  Curing  or  Pick- 
ling Tongues." 

To  Pickle  Tongues   (English 
Recipe) 

Let  simmer  gently  for  twenty  minutes 
three  pounds  of  common  salt,  one  pound 
of  brown  sugar  or  molasses,  three  ounces 
of  saltpetre  and  seven  quarts  of  water; 
si  im  carefully  while  boiling,  and  when 
quite  cold  pour  it  over  the  tongues,  which 
must  be  completely  covered  with  the 
brine. 


Query  1696.  —  "Recipes  for  Taffy  Candy  of 
Sugar,  a  Soft  White  Layer  Cake  with  not  too 
many  eggs  (give  exact  manner  of  mixing), 
and  Fruit  Salad  of  Oranges  and  Bananas." 


Taffy  Candy 


2i 


i  a  cup  of  butter. 
\  a     teaspoonful      of 
salt 


cups      of      sugar 
(granulated      or 
coffee  A) 
S  a  cup   of   water 
k  a     teaspoonful      of 
cream  of  tartar 

Put  the  sugar,  water  and  cream-of- 
tartar  over  the  fire  and  stir  until  dis- 
solved; cover  and  let  boil  three  or  four 
minutes.  Uncover  and  let  boil  to  340°  F, 
or  until  it  cracks  in  cold  water.  It  is 
cooked  before  it  begins  to  color.  Re- 
move from  the  fire;  add  the  salt  and 
the  butter  in  small  pieces;  stir  in  thor- 
oughly and  pour  on  an  oiled  marble 
or  platter,  spreading  it  evenly  with  a 
palette  knife.  Score  or  cut  into  squares 
one  inch  and  a  half   in  size.     Run  the 


palette  knife  under  the  candy  as  it  coals 
to  loosen  it  from  the  marble.  Break 
apart  the  squares  when  thoroughly  cold. 

Soft  White  Layer  Cake 

2  cups  of  sifted  flour 

3  level      teaspoonfuls 
of  baking  powder 

3  whites  of  eggs 


i  a  cup  of  butter 
1  cup    of    granulated 

sugar 
i  a  cup  of  milk 


Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream  (until 
light,  smooth  and  creamy  with  whitish 
edges)  ;  gradually  beat  in  the  sugar, 
keeping  the  mixture  light  and  fluffy ;  sift 
together  the  flour  (sifted  before  measur- 
ing) and  baking  powder.  Beat  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  dry.  Add  the  milk 
and  flour  mixture,  alternately,  (milk 
first)  to  the  butter  and  sugar  and,  lastly, 
beat  in  the  whites  of  the  eggs.  Beat 
thoroughly  that  the  cake  may  be  fine- 
grained and  velvety.  Bake  in  layers, 
loaf  or  sheet  from  twenty  minutes  to 
three-fourths  an  hour. 

O range- and-Banana   Salad 

Remove  the  peel  from  three  oranges ; 
set  them,  one  at  a  time,  on  a  board  and 
cut  down  into  thin  slices  lengthwise  of 
the  orange;  or  with  thin  sharp  knife  cut 
the  pulp  close  to  the  membrane,  dividing 
the  sections,  and  take  out  each  carpel  in 
one  piece.  Remove  the  skin  from  three 
bananas,  scrape  the  pulp  free  from  coarse 
threads  and  cut  in  thin  slices.  On  a 
serving   dish   make   a   bed   of    carefull\ 


399 


400 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


vvashed-and-dried  heart  leaves  of  lettuce ; 
on  these  dispose  the  prepared  fruit  in 
layers  or  each  separately.  Mix  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  two  or  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  stir  in 
four  or  five  tablespoonfuls  of  oHve  oil 
and  pour  over  the  fruit.  Serve  as  an 
accompaniment  to  a  dish  of  meat  (hot 
or  cold)   or  with  bread  and  butter. 

Orange-and-Banana  Salad 
(Sweet) 
Prepare  the  oranges  and  bananas  as 
in  the  preceding  recipe.  Cook  the  thin 
yellow  rind  of  an  orange  (no  white 
part)  with  the  juice  of  the  orange  or 
half  a  cup  of  water  and  one  cup  of  sugar 
six  or  eight  minutes  to  form  a-  syrup ; 
add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  let 
stand  to  become  cold.  Pour  over  the 
fruit  and  if  desired  sprinkle  with  grated 
cocoanut  or  other  nut  meats,  chopped 
fine. 


the  plates  rest  in  a  frame  similar  to  that 
seen  in  waffle  irons.  The  plates  are 
ornamented  and  the  design  appears  on 
the  cakes  when  baked. 


Query  1697.  — "  Recipes  for  some  of  the 
Little  Cakes  served  in  the  tea  rooms  of  Paris." 

Gauffres 

Melt  two  level  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter.  Gradually  beat  in  two-thirds  a 
cup  of  granulated  sugar,  then  the  beaten 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla  extract,  two-thirds  a  cup  of 
pastry  flour,  and,  lastly,  the  whites  of 
two  eggs,  beaten  dry.  Beat  all  together 
ver}'  thoroughly.  Have  a  gauffre  iron 
moderately  heated  over  the  fire.  Oil 
the  surface  very  thoroughly.  Put  a  tea- 
spoonful of  the  mixture  in  the  centre 
of  the  iron,  turn  down  the  cover,  and, 
when  the  mixture  spreads  to  the  edge 
of  the  hot  plate,  clamp  the  handles  to- 
gether ;  turn  to  cook  the  other  side ;  trim 
ofY  the  wafer  to  the  edge  of  the  plates, 
remove  to  a  clean  paper,  and  roll  at  once 
while  hot.  This  recipe  will  make  from 
twenty-two  to  twenty- four  gauflfres. 
GaufTre  irons  consist  of  two  round  plates 
about  three  inches  and  one-half  in 
diameter,  hinged  together  on  one  side; 
on  the  opposite  side  are  long  handles ; 


Query  1698.  —  "  Recipe  for  Cooked  Apples 
Served  on  Sponge  Cake." 

Apples,  Manhattan  Style 

Core  and  pare  six  or  eight  apples. 
Cook  in  a  syrup  made  of  a  cup  and  a 
half,  each,  of  sugar  and  water,  turn- 
ing often,  until  the  apples  are  tender 
throughout.  Have  ready  as  many 
rounds  of  sponge  cake  (stamped  out 
from  slices  half  an  inch  thick)  as  apples. 
Set  an  apple  on  each  piece  of  cake. 
Reduce  the  syrup  until  it  will  jelly — half 
a  tumbler  of  currant  jelly  simmered  with 
it  gives  a  pretty  color — then  pour  it  over 
the  apples  and  cake.  The  rounds  of 
cake  may  first  be  browned  in  a  little  hot, 
clarified  butter  in  a  frying  pan,  or,  spread 
with  butter,  they  may  be  browned  in  the 
oven.  Thus  treated  the  shape  is  better 
preserved. 


Query  1698.  —  "I  am  an  old  experienced 
bread  maker,  but  for  the  last  year  or  so  my 
loaves  burst  open  on  one  side  after  they  are 
put  into  the  oven.  I  would  appreciate  an  ex- 
planation as  to  the  cause  and  how  to  correct 
the  same." 

Cause    of    Bursting   of   Bread   in 
Oven 

We  can  think  of  but  one  reaspn  why 
a  loaf  of  bread  should  burst  open  on  one 
side  after  it  has  been  put  into  the  oven, 
i.  e.,  insufficient  rising.  To  remedy,  pay 
no  attention  to  the  time  the  bread  has 
been  shaped  for  the  pans ;  wait  until  it 
has  nearly  doubled  in  bulk,  then  set  to 
bake  in  the  middle  of  the  oven.  The 
heat  of  the  oven  should  be  such  that  the 
bread  has  risen  to  its  full  height,  crusted 
over  and  browned  slightly  in  spots,  at  the 
expiration  of  fifteen  minutes. 


Query  1700. —  "  What  is  the  difference  be- 
tween Bread  and  Pastry  Flour?  Is  there  a 
decided  difference  in  Lightness,  Texture  and 
Flavor  between  a  cake  made  of  Bread  Flour 
and    one   made    of    Pastry   Flour?     Where    a 


Menus  for  Company  Luncheons  in  April 

I 

Grapefruit-and-Canned-Cherry   Cocktail 

Oyster    Croquettes,    Cucumbers,    French 

Dressing 

Yeast   Rolls 

Lamb  Chops,  Broiled,  French  Fried   Potatoes 
Asparagus,   Maltese   Sauce 

Simple    Charlotte     Russe 
Coffee 

II 
Halves  of  Grapefruit 

Consomme  with   Poached  Eggs 
Radishes       Salted   Nuts 

Fried    Sweetbreads    with    Peas 
Salad    Rolls 

Prune-and-Pecan  Nut  Salad 
Whole    Wheat    Bread-and-Butter    Sandwiches 


Pineapple    Sherbet 

Coffee 

III 

Tomato  Soup 

Fresh    Mushrooms,    Newburgh 
Baking    Powder    Biscuit 

Glazed     Sweetbreads,    Asparagus    Tips 
Lettuce-and-Padish  Salad 

Sponge    Cake 
Cocoa.   Whipped    Cream 


The 
Boston  Cooking- School  Magazine 


Vol.  X\^ 


APRIL.   1911 


No.  9 


"W:^M 

kjMLi 

-1^      A 

."'-jt^C 

CHIMNEYS    BOTH    ORXAMEX 1 


,-EFUL 


The  Humble  Chimney 


Bv  Maro'aret  L.  Sears 


THE  humble  chimney  has  a  long 
and  interesting  history,  which 
is  full  of  surprises,  and  leads 
the  searcher  for  facts  into  unexpect- 
edly pleasant  ways. 


From  the  earliest  times,  when  the 
house  itself  was  a  chimney — being  hut- 
shape,  with  an  opening  at  the  apex  for 
the  escape  of  smoke — to  the  present 
time,   in   most   countries    the   chimney 


403 


404 


HI' 


lOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


has  held  the  place  of  honor  in  the 
construction   of  the  home. 

And  it  should  hold  the  place  of 
honor;  it  carries  the  smoke  from  the 
fireplace,  the  altar  of  the  home.  The 
exigences  of  modern  life  have  removed 
that  altar  from  many  of  our  American 
homes,  but  nothing  can  ever  take  the 
place  of  the  charm  of  its  presence. 

Many  people  can  remember  hearing 
in  their  youth  the  word  "chimley"  ap- 
plied to  the  vertical  structure  that 
graced  the  roof  of  all  houses.  This 
curious  word  was  invariably  used  by 
some  elderly  person,  or  a  newly-ar- 
rived emigrant,  and  to  the  very  young 
person  it  seemed  a  sign  of  gross  ig- 
norance. In  reality,  it  is  an  old  form 
of  the  present  word  ''chimney,"  and  its 
use  was,  perhaps,  not  so  much  an  evi- 
dence of  wrong  pronunciation  after  all. 

It  is   rarely,   if   ever,   that  the  word 


"chimley"  is  heard  in  these  days,  and 
it  was  during  the  period  of  the  ''elderly 
person"  and  the  "emigrant"  that  a  de- 
termined movement  was  made  to  re- 
move the  chimney  stack  from  the 
American  roof,  or,  at  least,  to  put  it  in 
such  a  position  that  it  would  be  most 
inconspicuous  ;  or  not  visible  from  the 
street. 

It  was  during  this  attempted  reform 
that  the  great,  hospitable  fireplaces  of 
Colonial  days,  and  of  fine  Colonial  de- 
sign, were  "walled  up,"  and  "air-tight" 
stoves  installed  in  their  place.  Some- 
times a  shallow  fireplace  with  no  out- 
let— none  being  needed — was  built 
into  the  wall,  and  sham  logs  with  gas 
lights  introduced  here  and  there  to 
simulate  the  fire.  This  gave  the  re- 
quired heat,  but  was  a  poor  substitute 
for  the  homelike  fireplace  of  former 
days. 


CHIMNEY    WITH    OlJT-D()(.)R    MRliPLACK 


THE  HUMBLE  CHLMXEY 


405 


HOUSE    AND    CHIMXEVS    IX     HARMONY 


The  steam  radiator  and  furnace  com- 
pleted the  reform  of  the  enterprising 
American;  and  the  one  chimney — 
hidden  as  much  as  possible — was  made 
to  serve  for  kitchen  stove  as  well  as  the 
furnace ;  and  the  house  shorn  of  its 
crown,  like  some  bald  creature,  was 
without  the  character  or  charm  which 
a  cluster  of  well-arranged  chimneys 
always  gives  to  the  construction  of  a 
building. 

This  was  a  long  departure  from  the 
old  English  days,  when  chimneys  were 
considered  of  such  value  that  they  were 
taxed  by  the  crown ;  and  "chimney 
money"'  brought  in  a  considerable  sum 
to  the  public  exchequer. 

It  is  also  supposed  that  the  idea  of 
constructing  the  fireplace  against  the 
wall  originated  in  England,  at  the  time 
of  the  Norman  conquest  in  the  eleventh 
century.  Until  this  time  the  chimney 
was  merely  a  hole  in  the  roof,  with  a 
small  wooden  tower  above  to  carrv  ofif 


the  smoke. 

For  a  long  time  it  was  a  question 
whether  the  chimney  was  in  use  in 
other  countries  before  it  was  first  in- 
troduced into  England.  More  recent 
discoveries  show  that  in  Greece  and 
Rome  kitchens  were  provided  with 
chimneys,  but  it  is  doubtful  if  they 
were  used  in  other  appartments. 

An  ancient  mosaic  found  in  Algeria, 
representing  a  country  mansion,  shows 
chimney  stacks  projecting  above  the 
roof. 

Before  this,  the  earliest  record  of 
chimneys  was  before  1638,  when  the 
Lord  of  Padua  introduced  them  into 
Rome ;  but  the  use  of  the  curfew  in 
England  before  1368  would  seem  to 
indicate  their  absence  in  that  country, 
as  the  curfew  summoned  the  people  to 
cover  over  the  fires  that  burned  in  the 
pits  in  the  centre  of  the  floor  under  an 
opening  in  the  roof. 

When  the  chimnev  was  finallv  estab- 


406 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


lished  it  was  used  only  as  a  luxury  in 
the  houses  of  the  great,  and  in  Queen 
Elizabeth's  time  people  were  sent  to 
these  houses  to  enjoy  the  privilege  of 
this  new  convenience. 

Ever  since  its  introduction  the  chim- 
ney stack  has  always  been  an  impor- 
tant part  of  the  English  home;  and  no- 
where is  the  home  in  all  its  complete- 
ness a  more  perfect  type  than  in  Eng- 
land. In  the  cottage,  as  well  as  in  the 
manor  house,  of  whatever  period,  the 
chimney  is  always  incorporated  into 
the  architectural  scheme  in  a  most  fit- 
ting manner,  so  that  if  taken  away 
there  would  be  a  lack  in  the  otherwise 
perfect  whole. 

The  chimney  reached  a  high  degree 
of  perfection,  also,  in  French  chateaux, 
where  the  multitude  of  elaborate 
shapes  in  which  it  is  introduced  makes 
an  interesting  study.  In  one  chateau 
it  is  found  in  graceful  renaissance  de- 
signs ;  in  other  groups  are  dainty  little 
gothic  patterns ;  and  in  some  the 
tracery  is  so  delicate  that  they  are 
called    ''broidered     chimneys"    by    an 


early  writer;  and  these  exquisite 
clusters  are  worthy  conveyors  of  the 
smoke  that  rose  from  the  magnificent 
fireplaces  within. 

With  all  these  artistic  examples  before 
them  it  is  not  surprising  that  of  recent 
years  Americans  are  beginning  to  have 
more  respect  for  the  one-time  neglected 
chimney,  and  in  all  parts  of  the  United 
States,  where  domestic  architecture  has 
been  intelligently  studied,  the  chimney 
has  a  prominent  place  in  house  construc- 
tion. 

A  simple,  but  effective,  chimney  on  a 
small  house  at  Chestnut  Hill,  Massachu- 
setts, is  one  example  of  this  tendency. 
The  house  is  of  chalet  style  and  at  both 
ends  of  the  roof  is  a  chimney  with  a 
square  opening  at  the  top — somewhat  re- 
sembling the  diminutive  bell  towers  on 
little  English  chapels — and  these  chim- 
neys give  an  air  of  distinction  to  an 
otherwise  plain  structure. 

A  good  example  of  the  Elizabethan 
chimney  is  seen  in  the  house  of  Rudyard 
Kipling.  Sussex,  England.  The  row  of 
five  chimneys,  corner  to  corner,  is  very 


bL'''9^^^^H 

WITH    ENGLISH    CHIMXEV    POTS 


THE    HOME   LIGHT 


407 


effective. 

Hundreds  of  examples  might  be  given 
of  the  many  artistic  shapes  into  which 
the  chimney  has  been  turned  since  its 
long  and  interesting  record  has  been  in 
progress.  When  one  has  also  consid- 
ered its  many-sided  history  from  its 
earliest  beginnings,  the  feeling  that  it 
is  a  thing  to  despise  must  inevitably  give 


way  to  admiration  for  what  it  has  been, 
to  comprehension  of  what  it  should  be. 
and  to  wonder  as  to  what  in  the  future 
it  may  be.  The  chimney  has  great  pos- 
sibilities, and  the  future,  if  it  fulfils 
its  promise,  should  show  a  strong  artistic 
development  in  this  important  architec- 
tural feature  of  the  home. 


BRICK  AND   SAXUSTOXE 


The  Home  Light 


Bv  I.alia  Mitchell 


Whether  the  road  be  steep  or  whether  the  sky 
be  gray, 
You  can  sing  and   smile,   o'er  each   lagging 

mile, 
If  only  you  know,  that  after  a  while 
There's  a  tryst  to  keep,  and  a  tear  to  stay 
And  a  hand  to  greet  you,  though  long  away. 


\\hether    the    task    be    hard,    or    whetlier    the 
hand  be  weak, 
You    can   laugh   and   jest,   if   the   hours    for 

rest 
Brings    peace    and    calm    to    your    troubled 
breasi. 
The  flush  of  joy  on  a   dear  one's  cheek. 
And  home  the  haven  you   joyful   seek. 


Whether   the   night   be    dark,    or   whether   the 
toil  be  vain. 

You  can  lift  your  voice  and  at  heart  rejoice. 

Though  lost  the  effort  and  ill  the  choice, 
If  the  courage  lost  you  can  find  again 
In  a  light  Love  sets  in  the  window  pane. 


The  Hands  That  Wash  Dishes 


A  Man's  Remarks 
By  Emmet  Campbell  Hall 


THE  other  day  1  picked  up  a  maga- 
zine and  started  to  read  a  story. 
My  first  glance  caught  this : 

"Would  he  care  to  kiss  her  hands  when 
they  smelled  of  dish-water?" 

That  was  quite  enough  to  brand  that 
particular  story  "impossible!" 

In  the  first  place,  the  question  fur- 
nished its  own  obvious  answer — he  would 
not.  But  why  the  question?  Without 
reading  the  story  we  may  infer  that  the 
fair  maiden,  in  some  proposed  capacity — 
presumably  as  the  wife  of  the  poor  but 
honest  youth — was  expected  to  souse  her 
hitherto  lilylike  hands  in  dish-water. 
Dish-water  smells ;  that  is  admitted  by 
most  persons  of  broad  minds.  But  would 
it  be  either  necessary  or  convenient  for 
him  to  kiss  her  hands  while  they  were 
engaged  in  the  homely  but  necessary  pro- 
cess of  washing  the  dinner  dishes  ?  If  he 
could  restrain  his  demonstrative  nature 
for  fifteen  minutes  or  so,  would  her 
hands  of  necessity  retain  the  perfume  of 
the  kitchen  sink?  If  that  author  gets  his 
ideas  from  real  life,  I  am  sorry  for  him 
and  for  his  women-folks.  If  not,  I  am 
sorry  for  him  just  the  same,  for  he  has 
no  acquaintance  with  what  is  the  corner- 
stone of  this  nation — the  self-respect- 
ing, well-bred,  but  frequently  financially 
limited,  American  family. 

There  are  in  the  United  States  a  little 
more  than  1,500,000  persons  classified  by 
the  Census  Bureau  as  "servants  and 
waiters,"  of  whom  perhaps  one  million 
are  employed  as  private  domestics,  or 
about  one  to  each  sixteen  families. 
Eliminate  one-half  of  these  families  on 
account  of  race,  extreme  poverty,  low 
breeding,  etc.,  and  there  still  remain 
eight  average  American  families  with  but 
one  servant  between  them.  It  is  not  my 
experience  that  the  hands  of  seven  out 


of  each  eight  women  of  average  station 
smell  of  dish-water. 

It  is  high  time  for  the  eradication  of 
the  idea,  still  possessed  by  many  other- 
wise intelligent  persons,  that  a  woman's 
most  natural  occupation,  the  care  of  her 
home,  necessarily  involves  slavish  drudg- 
ery and  an  unattractive  person.  It  is 
unfortunately  true  that  some  women 
allow  themselves  to  sink  to  the  status  of 
domestics  in  their  own  homes.  And 
more,  they  usually  present  an  appear- 
ance far  less  neat  and  attractive  than 
they  would  demand  in  a  hired  servant — 
then  wonder  why  their  husbands  do  not 
offer  the  caresses  that  were  lavished  dur- 
ing the  honeymoon.  But  such  a  falling 
ofif  is  due  to  choice,  disregard,  or  in- 
difiference,  not  to  necessity. 

Take  the  matter  of  dish-washing,  for 
instance.  I  know  well  a  pair  of  hands 
that  have  washed  dishes  almost  daily  for 
three  years,  yet  few  women  of  any 
station  could  show  hands  more  soft  and 
attractive,  or  better  shaped  or  more 
poHshed  nails,  and  one  would  as  soon 
expect  to  find  a  disagreeable  odor  in  a 
newly  opened  lily  as  upon  them.  Nor 
is  dish-washing  the  only  labor  performed 
by  those  attractive  but  capable  hands. 
All  the  usual  work  of  a  household,  with 
the  exception  of  floor-scrubbing  and  the 
handling  of  fuel  and  ashes,  is  done  by 
them,  and  yet  they  present  no  disagree- 
able contrast  to  the  ivory  keys  of  the 
piano,  on  which  their  touch  falls  with  as 
much  delicacy  and  skill  as  any  which 
have  never  known  the  feel  of  broom 
handle  or  soiled  pot  and  pan. 

Intelligent  care  is  certainly  necessary, 
if  the  woman,  who,  from  choice  or  neces- 
sity, does  her  own  housework,  is  to  avoid 
having  the  scarred,  reddened  and  un- 
sightly hands  sometimes  observed  when 


408 


THE  HANDS  THAT   WASH   DISHES 


409 


defect-hiding  gloves  are  removed.  Cuts 
and  burns,  usually  due  to  carelessness 
and  which  are  not  inevitable  incidents  to 
housework,  should  receive  instant  and 
careful  attention.  Absolutely  essential 
are  rubber  gloves,  four  sizes  larger  than 
the  kid  gloves  usually  worn.  These 
should  be  worn  whenever  "rough"  work 
is  to  be  done,  or  fruit  and  vegetables  pre- 
pared. By  having  the  gloves  full  large, 
they  readily  slip  on  and  off,  and  the  habit 
of  their  use  is  soon  acquired.  Dishwater 
should  not  be  so  hot  that  the  hands  placed 
in  it  instantly  resemble  a  boiled  lobster. 
Good  white  floating  soap  should  be  used, 
not  the  rough  brown  bars  usually  sold 
as  "kitchen  soap,"  and  lye-  should  be 
carefully  avoided.  The  white  soap  is 
little  more  expensive  than  the  brown 
soaps,  which  injure  the  texture  of  the 
skin.  As  soon  as  the  dishwashing  is 
finished,  the  hands  should  be  bathed  in' 
lukewarm  water,  using  a  pure,  white 
soap,  then  dashed  with  cold  water,  and 
then  thoroughly  but  gently  rubbed  with 
a  little  soothing  and  softening  lotion. 
This  process  must  be  gone  through  with 
invariably,  whether  dishes  are  washed 
once,  twice,  or  three  times  daily. 

If  the  nails  require  attention,  they 
should  receive  it  as  soon  as  the  hands 
have  dried  and  cooled.  The  nails  will 
then  be  in  an  elastic  condition  and  not 
likely  to  break  or  split.  Many  volumes 
have  been  written  upon  the  proper  care 
of  the  nails,  but  there  is  really  little  to 
do,  if  they  receive  daily  attention,  the 
skin  being  pushed  back  with  an  orange- 
wood  stick,  not  with  a  steel  instrument, 
and  the  ends  carefully  filed.  It  will  not 
be  necessary  to  use  a  poHshing  powder 
every  day,  but  the  nails  should  be  rubbed 
a  little  with  the  buflfer.  Altogether, 
fifteen  minutes  a  day  is  ample  time  to 
devote  to  the  care  of  the  hands — and 
they  are  surely  worth  that,  even  to  the 
busiest  woman. 

There  seems  to  be  a  very  general  im- 
pression   among    women    that    a    man 


"doesn't  notice"  his  wife's  appearance  at 
home,  and  that  it  would  be  a  waste  of 
time  and  effort  to  "fix  up"  in  the  morn- 
ing, when  he  is  going  to  hurry  right  off 
to  the  office,  or  on  Sunday  morning,  when 
he  is  loafing  about  the  house  in  smoking 
jacket  and  slippers,  and  even  in  the  even- 
ing, sometimes,  when  it  is  almost  certain 
that  no  one  will  call.  This  is  a  grave 
mistake  for  any  woman  to  make.  The 
man  does  notice,  though  he  rarely  makes 
any  comment.  Only  a  most  unreason- 
able person  would  expect  his  wife  to 
"fix  up"  upon  the  easy  occasions  men- 
tioned, but  she  owes  it  to  him,  no  less 
than  to  herself,  to  appear  with  neat  hair 
and  in  dainty  and  attractive  garments. 
Many  a  man  has  been  rather  shocked  to 
observe  the  growing  carelessness  of  his 
bride  in  the  matter  of  her  morning  toilet, 
the  disposition  to  "slap  up  her  hair"  and 
"slip  on  something,"  but  has  said  nothing, 
fearing  to  hurt  her  feelings.  Later  he 
accepts  the  situation  as  an  unattractive 
matter  of  course,  and  perhaps  in  time  he 
does  not  notice,  having  lost  interest.  He 
would  have  noticed  always,  and  secretly 
if  not  openly  admired,  had  she  clung  to 
the  dainty  and  pretty  things  of  the  early 
days. 

Nor  should  utter  indifference  on  a 
man's  part  be  taken  for  granted,  if  he 
himself  happens  to  be  somewhat  indif- 
ferent to  his  own  personal  appearance 
when  at  home.  It  must  be  remembered 
that  the  average  man  is  what  a  woman 
would  call  "fixed  up"  every  day  while 
at  his  office  or  store,  and  he  is  naturally 
inclined  to  relax  upon  reaching  home. 
There  is  no  excuse  for  shirt-sleeved  and 
collarless  abandon,  and  few  men  would 
go  that  length  unless  encouraged  by  a 
correspondingly  "sloppy"  appearance  on 
the  part  of  the  wife.  If  he  is  provided 
with  a  light  house  coat  or  pretty  smoking 
jacket,  he  will  wear  it.  If  the  high  collar 
has  become  irksome,  why  not  give  him 
a  pretty  and  comfortable  soft  shirt  with 
attached    low     collar    when    he    comes 


410 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


home?  Moreover,  there  is  this  kink  in 
the  average  man's  nature.  Whether  or 
not  he  himself  is  spick  and  span,  he 
wishes  his  surroundings,  his  belongings, 
and  his  friends  to  be  so,  and  v^ill  uncon- 
sciously resent  it,  if  they  are  not.  Who 
has  not  seen  a  man  work  until  the  last 
minute  mowing  his  lawn  and  then  not 
have  time  to  shave  himself ;  neglect  to 
get  his  own  hair  shampooed  and  spend 
hours  currying  and  brushing  his  horse 
to  shining  beauty;  or  spend  earnest 
hours  cleaning  and  polishing  his  guns, 
rubbing  up  his  buggy,  or  painting  the 
fence,  while  his  best  suit  of  clothing 
sadly  needed  cleaning  and  pressing? 

The  average  man  admired  his  wife  be- 
fore he  married  her,  and  wants  to  con- 
tinue to  admire  her,  and  will,  if  she  will 
let  him,  but  it  takes  an  enormous  num- 
ber of  inward  virtues  to  outweigh  out- 
ward untidiness.  As  an  abstract  pro- 
position it  may  be  stated  that  a  man  is  so 
constituted  that  he  must  admire  someone 


of  the  opposite  sex,  and  if  he  cannot 
admire  his  wife  (he  cannot  admire  a 
woman  whose  hair  is  done  up  in  curl 
papers,  when  she  wears  a  shapeless 
"wrapper"  of  dejected  color,  and  when 
her  feet  are  thrust  into  ragged  bedroom 
slippers)  it  is  worth  remembering  that 
every  other  woman  he  sees  is  prepared 
for  inspection,  and  he  is  apt  to  get  the 
foolish  notion  that  his  own  wife  is  the 
only  really  dowdy  and  unattractive 
woman  he  knows.  He  doesn't  know  how 
very  fine  she  looked  when  she  "fixed  up'" 
and  went  out  some  hours  after  he  left, 
the  house,  and  the  peacock  plumage  ha? 
been  shed  before  he  returns.  However, 
we  are  rather  wandering  from  the  text. 
Of  course  "he"  would  not  wish  to  kis? 
"her"  hands  when  they  smelled  of  dish- 
water— that  goes  without  saying.  What 
annoyed  me  was  the  assumption  thai 
such  a  perfume  w^as  bound  to  exist,  if 
"she"  was  not  provided  with  a  dozen  ot 
so  of  servants. 


Moral  Housecleanma 


By  Mrs.  Charles  Norman 


IN  the  beginning,  1  will  admit  that 
I  do  not  understand  the  subject  I 
am  about  to  discuss — that  I  do  not 
even  know  if  there  is  such  -a  thing  as 
moral  housecleaning !  I  simply  have  a 
feeling  that  the  ordinary  semi-annual 
cleaning  is  immoral,  and  that  something 
must  be  done  about  it.  My  own  expe- 
riences have  kept  me,  from  year  to  year, 
in  the  valley  of  humiliation.  Not  the 
valley  of  despair,  however — not  the  val- 
ley of  despair. 

One  morning,  not  long  ago,  when  I 
was  newly  released  and  partially  recov- 
ered from  the  tyranny  of  house  clean- 
ing, I  called  at  the  home  of  a  friend  and 
at  her  request  took  a  seat  on  the  veranda. 

"And  what  are  you  doing,  this  beau- 


tiful spring  day?"  I  asked. 

"Picking  up  dirt  in  one  place  and  de- 
positing it  in  another,"  she  answered 
with  a  sigh. 

I  thought  I  detected,  in  her  voice,  a 
decided  weakness,  and  I  said,  "Have  you 
tired  yourself  out,  at  this  business?" 

"Have  I  tired  myself  out?"  sht 
moaned.  "If  it  were  only  myself  !  Why. 
I  have  been  a  perfect  demon  all  week. 
And  the  worst  of  it  is,"  she  added,  "my 
husband  has  done  everything  he  could 
possibly  do,  to  make  the  burden  lighter, 
and  I  haven't  the  grace  to  thank  him  or 
even  to  seem  grateful.  I  have  been  ugly, 
ugly,  ugly !     And  I  could  not  help  it." 

I  was  thinking  the  case  was  about 
'hiplirated   in   my   own   household,  but   7 


MORAL  HOUSE  CLEANING 


411 


said  nothing.  1  could  not  think  what  I 
should  say.  My  friend  at  length  con- 
tinued : 

"Another  thing,  we  have  not  had  half 
enough  to  eat  for  three  days.  I  forgot 
to  order  anything  and  am  too  tired  to 
prepare  what  we  have.  Now  last  night, 
after  we  had  worked  so  hard  and  I  had 
put  off  dinner  to  the  last  possible  mo- 
ment and  we  had  been  seven  hours  with- 
out food,  and  had  had  only  half  rations 
at  the  previous  meals,  and  the  children 
were  already  sleepy  and  fretful, — what 
do  you  think  we  had  to  eat?" 

"Pickles,"  I  guessed. 

My  friend  gave  a  hysterical  little 
laugh.  "\\'ell,  no,"  she  said,  "but  it 
wasn't  much  better.  We  had  absolutely 
nothing  but  baker's  bread,  which  tasted 
like  sawdust,  and  a  can  of  tomatoes,  very 
sloppy !  There  were  peas  in  the  store 
room,  which  would  have  taken  no  more 
time  to  prepare  and  which  would  have 
serv^ed  us  much  better  as  food,  but  I  did 
not  have  the  sense  to  choose.  Neither 
did  I  know  enough  to  open  a  jar  of 
preserves  to  help  us  forget  the  taste  of 
that  bread ;  and  when,  at  the  conclusion 
of  the  meal,  one  of  the  children  meekly 
asked  if  he  might  have  an  apple,  I  dis- 
covered that  there  were  no  apples.  It 
dawned  upon  me  then,  that  the  children 
were  hungry  and  that  I  was  hungry  and 
that  my  husband  probably  was  hungry 
— that  all  of  us  were,  in  consequence, 
half  sick  and  unhappy !  I  could  not 
sleep  for  a  bad  conscience  and  for  think- 
ing what  we  should  have  for  breakfast." 

"Why,"  said  I,  ''this  is  really  a  pitiful 
tale.  I  ought  to  report  it  to  the  charit}' 
organization." 

"No!"  she  answered  solemnly.  "Take 
it  to  the  managers  of  the  insane  asylum. 
I  have  resolved  over  and  over  that  this 
thing  should  never  happen  again ;  and  it 
continues  to  happen  twice  a  year,  with 
perfect  regularity.  \\'hy,  my  dear,"  she 
said,  looking  me  hard  in  the  face  as  if  it 
were   the   most   serious   moment   of   her 


life,  "I  never  appreciated  till  now  what 
a  hard  life  my  laundry  woman  has.  She 
washes  six  days  in  the  week.  Even  if 
she  could  afford  good  food,  she  would 
never  have  the  strength  to  prepare  it, 
would  she?  Poor  thing!  She  told  me 
once  she  had  to  do  'a  right  smart  bit  of 
cooking'  on  Sunday.  I  dare  say  she 
needs  *a  right  smart  bit,'  and  she  could 
not  act  more  righteously  than  in  pre- 
paring it.  But,  in  my  case,  such  troubles 
are  preventable !  There  is  no  need  of 
this  house  cleaning  commotion." 

"And  this  emotion!"  I  added. 

She  paid  no  attention  to  my  remarks, 
but  went  on:  "I  think  the  whole  diffi- 
culty begins  with  those  large  rugs  — 
rugs  which  are  too  large  for  any  woman 
to  handle,  and  which  must  be  put  down 
and  let  alone.  If  it  were  not  for  them, 
we  could  keep  clean  and  would  not  need 
to  get  clean ;  but  with  great  heavy  rugs 
and  furniture  on  top  of  them,  what  can 
a  woman  do?  She  cannot  even  begin 
till  the  very  foundations  are  removed 
with  their  accumulated  filth — for  how- 
ever much  you  may  dislike  that  word — 
it  is  the  proper  one  for  such  stale  and 
poisonous  dirt.'" 

I  was  glad  to  have  my  existence  rec- 
ognized, and  I  hastened  to  improve  my 
opportunity  to  speak,  so  I  said :  "Why 
don't  you  sell  your  large  rugs  to  a  sec- 
ond-hand man  or  give  them  to  the  poor? 
I  know  you  would  like  to  do  that  and 
God  loveth  a  cheerful  giver." 

She  looked  at  me  reproachfully  and 
said :  "Do  not  be  sacrilegious  !  Tell  me 
— what  have  you  done  with  your  large 


rugs 


?" 


"Gone  through  the  whole  performance 
you  have  depicted,  fussing,  fasting  and 
all ;  and  finished  it  with  the  rugs  in  place 
again  and  the  furniture  on  top  of  them, 
immovable,  irrevocable,  uncleanable,  in- 
decent! Who  was  it  who  said,  Tf  I  have 
got  to  drag  my  trap,  I  will  see  that  it 
is  a  light  one  and  does  not  nip  me  in  a 
vital  part'?'* 


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THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


"Well,"  I  said, — and  I,  too,  began  to 
grow  serious, — "not  only  large  rugs  but 
some  other  possessions  have  entrapped 
me,  and  I  am  afraid  they  are  'nipping 
in  a  vital  part,'  but  the  rugs  are  the  most 
-of  it,  as  you  suggest.  I  bought  them  in 
my  benighted  days.  I  got  good  ones  and 
they  refuse  to  wear  out.  Rugs  of  some 
kind  are  needed  in  winter  to  make  the 
floors  warmer.  In  summer  we  do  not 
need  them,  and  they  have  no  excuse  for 
fbeing;  but  the  floors  are  not  sightly  and 
I  lack  the  moral  courage — or  common 
sense — to  discard  them.  I  have  no  de- 
fense to  make,  but  I  shall  never,  never, 
never  buy  another.  Some  day  we  will 
see  the  last  of  semi-annual  upheavals 
and  do  the  cleaning  as  it  is  needed  and 
.as  circumstances  permit.  We  will  let 
brooms  go  with  the  large  rugs.  Small 
Tugs  can  be  cleaned  out  of  doors  every 
week  or  two,  and  the  floors  brushed  and 
w^iped  clean,  and  we  shall  never  more 
raise  a  great  dust  inside  and  poison  the 
atmosphere  and  load  our  lungs  (and  the 
bric-a-brac)  with  dirt.  And  we  will  have 
less  bric-a-brac,  too!  They  say  that  in 
•every  storm  there  is  a  center  of  perfect 
calm,  but  the  house  cleaning  cyclone  has 
'no  such  point!" 

I  was  growing  eloquent  but  my  friend 
checked  me.  "Why,"  she  said,  "you 
^alk  well;  yet  you  have  laid  those  rugs 
and  you  mean  to  lie  upon  them  and  re- 
peat your  house  cleaning  in  the  autumn 
and  then  go  through  the  winter,  and  have 
house  cleaning  again  in  the  spring! 
Well,  you  have  come  in  time  to  save  me. 
This  house  is  clean,  clean  from  garret 
to  cellar,  floors,  ceiHngs,  walls,  wood- 
work, windows,  to  say  nothing  of  rugs! 
And  all  this  has  been  done  with  no  out- 
ride help  but  that  of  one  skilless  man, 
who  could  do  nothing  without  being  di- 
rected, but  upon  whom,  nevertheless,  the 
whole  thing  depended.-  Without  him  not 
a  wheel  could  be  turned,  and  he  knew  it. 
And  so  it  is !  When  this  business  be- 
gins, it  cannot  stop  and  it  cannot  go  on, 
af  the  men  we  engage  conclude  to  stop  it. 


"This  moment  is  for  me  the  period  of 
calm  in  this  storm,  though  it  seems  not 
to  be  in  the  center.  And  I  have  decided 
since  I  have  been  sitting  here  that  this 
clean  house  shall  never  again  be  spoiled 
by  those  large  rugs.  I  cannot  afford  to 
buy  new  ones,  but  we  will  go  without  this 
summer  and  next  winter  I  will,  if  neces- 
sary, cut  the  old  ones  into  strips  rather 
than  be  rendered  by  them,  helpless  to 
clean  a  room.  The  floors  may  not  look 
very  well,  but  they  will  be  'an  outward  and 
visible  sign  of  an  inward  and  spiritual 
grace/  Already  I  feel  emancipated.  And 
there  is  someone  besides  myself  who  will 
appieciate  my  change  of  heart!  Most 
men  are  sufficiently  oppressed  with  busi- 
ness cares  and  they  ought  not  to  have 
the  added  responsibility  of  home.  What 
is  the  use  of  a  man  having  a  home,  if 
it  is  presided  over  by  a  creature  who  has 
not  mind  enough  or  courage  enough  to 
manage  it?" 

With  this  speech  my  friend  "cooled 
down."  She  had  apparently  forgotten 
my  presence — I  was  discreetly  quiet.  It 
might  seem  that,  under  the  circumstances, 
she  was  not  very  polite;  but  I  justified 
her  vehemence.  She  was  a  righteous 
little  lady  and  I  could  take  no  of- 
fence. Besides  it  was  Alice,  my  most 
loyal  and  devoted  friend !  She  and 
I  were  under  no  contract  to  make  com- 
mendatory speeches  to  each  other.  When 
I  started  to  go  home,  she  asked  me,  out 
of  habit,  to  stay  for  luncheon. 

*'But  is  there  going  to  be  any?"  said  I. 

She  laughed  and  assured  me  she  would 
divide  her  last  loaf  with  such  an  old 
friend — especially  one  who  had  helped  to 
save  her  from  continuance  in  a  grave 
error. 

I  prudently  refused  her  refreshments, 
believing  I  could  do  better  elsewhere ; 
though  she  told  me  she  was  really  feel- 
ing vastly  better  than  when  I  came  and 
that  she  meant  to  go  at  once  to  order 
something  to  eat;  which  I  took  as' con^ 
solatory  proof  that  she  was  in  her  right 
mind. 


A  Friend's  Friends 

By  Kate  Gannett  Wells 


ONE  of  the  best  results  of  or- 
ganized social  service  is  the 
ability  it  indirectly  creates  to 
get  along  in  the  world  without  exclusive 
comradeship.  The  close  intimacy  of  two 
men  or  of  two  women  for  each  other, 
though  still  existing  in  numerous  in- 
stances, is  not  so  marked  a  feature  of 
modern  social  life  as  it  was  in  Greek  or 
mediaeval  and  renaissance  days. 

Yet  friendship  itself  is  as  universal 
a  need  as  ever.  While  its  boundaries 
are  enlarging  so  that  we  are  apt  to  have 
several  friends  for  the  several  needs  of 
our  souls,  we  are  still  so  bound  by  the 
traditions  of  caste  and  by  natural  cir- 
cumspection, that  we  hesitate  about  mak- 
ing a  friend's  friends  our  friends.  We 
are  not  quite  sure  whether  or  not  we 
shall  like  them.  Then,  our  minds  warped 
by  such  fear,  we  wonder  whether  or  not 
they  will  like  us,  in  our  modest  self- 
consciousness  not  taking  it  for  granted 
that  they  cannot  help  doing  so. 

Perhaps  it  is  only  in  middle  life  that 
it  is  wise  to  increase  greatly  the  circle 
of  friendship.  Evidently  we  do  not  do 
it  in  early  life,  as  shown  by  the  sudden, 
short-lived  friendships  of  school  girls 
for  each  other  or  by  a  kind  of  fag-like 
devotion  of  one  boy  to  another.  Even 
if  school  societies,  fraternities,  and  girls' 
clubs  are  really  movements  towards 
wider  circles  of  friendship,  one  need  but 
to  know  a  very  little  of  the  secret  dis- 
cussions anent  membership  in  sewing 
circles,  (the  fashionable  lunch  club  of 
debutantes)  to  see  how  far  such  a  circle 
is  from  being  more  than  a  coterie  of  a 
certain  kind  of  a  friend's  friends.  Such 
social  fear  is  more  comical  than  pitiful, 
for  it  is  so  youthful.  Fortunately,  as 
debutantes  grow  older,  the  best  of  them- 
selves comes  more  to  the  surface  and 
they  are   apt  to  take  up  social   service 


where  their  very  grace  and  zeal  helps 
them  over  the  pitfalls  of  their  ignorance. 
Then  they  may  begin  to  find  that  there 
are  other  girls  than  those  they  have  al- 
ways known.  May  sympathy  now  be 
their  guide  rather  than  aggressive,  per- 
tinacious helpfulness. 

Mothers  usually  are  not  of  much  use 
in  guiding  their  daughters  through  this 
labyrinth  of  friendships.  Not  that  they 
might  not  be,  but  they  are  not  wanted 
round,  so  girls  have  to  learn  by  experi- 
ence, a  costly  guide.  But  if  mothers 
themselves  had  a  more  extended  circle 
of  friends,  their  example  might  become 
an  hereditary  quality.  Even  at  the  larg- 
est afternoon  teas,  supposed  to  be  gen- 
eral gatherings,  only  certain  kinds  of 
friends  are  found.  Such  teas  are  not 
even  as  good  an  indication  of  the  social 
interests  of  hostesses  as  are  funerals, 
where  meet  all  the  various  kinds  of 
friends  one  has  had. 

It  is,  however,  in  narrowing  from  af- 
ternoon teas  into  smaller  circles  that  the 
frequency  with  which  a  friend's  friends 
are  more  or  less  unknown  to  each  other 
becomes  noticeable.  Each  one  is  likely 
to  be  relegated  to  some  one  distinct  func- 
tion, as  good  for  certain  uses  or  seasons, 
but  not  as  all  round  delightful  and  ser- 
viceable beings.  Probably  they  are  not,, 
but  the  very  way  in  which  each  is  kept 
distinct  from  the  other  prevents  expan- 
sion of  interests  and  is  one  cause  of  the 
fewness  of  salons  and  of  the  lessening 
of  those  whom  we  might  know  as  we 
grow  elderly.  If  youth  must  be  chary 
of  intercourse,  middle  life  ought  to  revel 
in  it,  that  there  may  be  a  residuum  left 
for  old  age. 

But  people  are  so  apt  to  set  apart  one 
day  for  one  kind  of  friend  and  another 
day  for  another,  alleging  to  themselves 
by  way  of  excuse  that  each  might  bore 


413 


414 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


the  other!  Oh,  the  social  terror  in  that 
supposition,  when  being  bored  or  boring 
another  is  merely  due  to  not  having  tact 
or  sympathy  enough  to  draw  out  another. 
It  is  in  this  reluctant  fear  of  conse- 
quences that  is  found  the  meanest  form 
of  snobbishness,  as  when  a  somewhat 
socially  inclined  person  brings  others  to- 
gether, yet  stating  as  apology  that  so  and 
so  is  remarkable  for  this  or  that  quality, 
or  that  some  one  else  is  very  nice  when 
you  know  her.  We  never  can  be  demo- 
cratic, yet  gifted  with  the  grace  of  seren- 
ity, until  we  get  rid  of  such  subterfuges 
for  knowing  people  whom  otherwise  we 
would  not  know.  We  do  not  want  to 
confine  our  friendships  to  self-limiting 
circles  any  more  than  we  want  to  get 
rid  of  the  intimate  companionship  of  one 
or  two  friends,  which  unless  one  is  hap- 
pily married  is  a  vital  necessity  for  the 
heart.  There  is  in  each  of  us  so  much 
unrecognized  capacity  for  the  exercise 
of  some  humdrum  quality  or  doing,  that. 
if  we  have  not  at  least  one  friend  who 
believes  in  us,  life  is  very  lonely.  All 
the  same,  if  we  wish  to  grow  into  com- 
prehension of  what  life  means,  we  need 
to  know  the  friends  of  our  friend. 

There  are  periods  in  life  when  exclu- 
siveness  seems  to  be  natural,  for  neither 
boy  nor  girl  springs  full  armed  into  the 
plentitude  of  friendships.  Little  girls 
are  as  proverbial  for  their  childish  se- 
crets with  each  other  as  boys  are  for 
their  home  silences,  and  when  they  be- 
come engaged  they  fancy  for  the  time 
being  that  human  nature  is  arranged  in 
couples  only  for  a  perpetual  duet  of  feel- 
ing and  intercourse.  If  it  is  the  pre- 
rogative of  youth  to  be  disinclined  to 
the  solidarity  of  humanity,  it  is,  also,  the 
part  of  growth  to  care  more  for  ''causes'' 
as  one  grows  older  and  to  discover  that 
causes  are  ennobled  by  enlarging  circles 


of  noble  friendships 

Yet,  just  because  of  such  growth,  we 
discover  that  there  is  a  rift  in  the  pos 
sibility  of  friendship,  for  how  far  can 
we,  ought  we,  to  have  as  friends  those 
who  are  not  worthy?  As  philanthropists 
it  is  easy  to  define  our  relations  to  those 
criminally  wrong,  but  it  is  on  the  edges  of 
vulgarity,  meannesses,  little  wrong-do- 
ings of  many  kinds  that  we  hesitate  how 
far  to  cross  over  to  those  committing 
minor  offences  and  we  cannot  always 
bring  them  over  to  us,  since  they  will 
not  come.  Shall  we  lower  our  instincts 
for  the  true  by  too  extensive  acquain- 
tanceship? Have  we  a  right  to  force 
the  meeting  with  doubtful  people  upon 
others,  even  if  we  valiantly  accept  it  for 
ourselves?  Shall  we  pass  over  the  dere- 
lictions of  silliness  or  thoughtlessness  as 
not  being  contagious?  If  we  would  let 
acquaintanceship  last  longer  before  it 
becomes  friendship  and  neither  indulge 
in  rhapsodies  over  each  new  person  we 
meet  nor  give  ourselves  away  right  off 
we  should  not  need  to  be  so  cautious  ir 
our  selfishness,  lest  we  know  some  one 
who  might  injure  us.  If  we  can  resist 
such  pressure,  we  yet  have  no  right  to 
subject  others,  less  strong  than  ourselves 
to  the  peril  of  contagion.  As,  after  all 
there  is  so  much  good  in  everybody,  mid 
die-aged  women,  at  least,  need  not  feai 
the  risks  of  a  wide  circle  of  friendship 
since  by  being  true  one's  self  reflex  ac- 
tion obtains.  Let  us  know  each  other's 
friends  in  their  varying  degrees  of  short- 
comings and  excellencies,  never  being 
jealous  if  in  the  end  our  friends  learn 
to  care  for  others  more  than  they  once 
did  for  us,  remembering  that,  though 
"everybody  is  lonesome"  at  times,  the 
larger  the  range  of  friendship,  the  less 
acute  will  be  our  loneliness. 


Her  Potatoless  Dinner 

Bv  Mav  Belle  Brooks 


SHE  would  do  it!  She  would  run 
the  gauntlet  of  the  uncompre- 
hending stares  and  shocked  coun- 
tenances of  carping  relations  and  begin 
to  put  into  effect  some  of  the  ideas  she 
had  absorbed  from  her  recent  study  of 
household   economics. 

Had  she  not  taken  a  correspondence 
course  in  dietetics,  and  wasn't  she  quali- 
fied for  knowing  things?  What  availeth 
a  woman,  if  she  learn  the  whole  alphabet 
of  scientific  feeding,  yet  keepeth  on  cook- 
mg  as  mother  used  to  cook?  \"erily, 
verily,  she  would  sit  no  longer  in  the 
shadows  of  revered  grandmotherly  insti- 
tutions, but  would  come  into  the  light  of 
modern  methods  and  hygienic  ways. 

Her  very  first  effort  at  reformation 
should  be  a  potatoless  dinner.  Shades  of 
tradition !  How  that  prosaic  company 
would  stare !  She  wondered  whether  she 
could  endure  the  ordeal.  Their  ver}- 
presence  would  cr\-  "Potatoes !  Pota- 
toes !"  so  great  was  their  slaver}-  to  the 
tyrant.  Perhaps  she  had  better  prepare 
a  few  and  hide  them  away  in  case  she 
did  relent  at  the  last  moment.  She  knew 
her  susceptibilit}'  to  other  people's 
opinions.  Alone,  she  could  challenge  the 
gods  to  a  contest,  but  in  their  presence, 
she  said,  "I  think  so,  too." 

But  she  must  steel  herself  for  the 
tray!  She  would  steep  her  brain  in  her 
■'Hand-book  of  Dietetics"  and  get  upon 
that  superior  scientific  plane  where  per- 
sonal opinions  of  benighted  relations 
could  not  reach.  She  had  attained  that 
pinnacle  once  or  twice,  but,  then,  none 
of  them  had  happened  around  at  that 
time! 

She  sat  down  to  write  her  menu,  ever 
keeping  an  eye  to  the  ''balanced  ration.'' 

''First,  there'll  be  a  vegetable  bouillon, 
which  will  gently  draw  the  digestive 
juices  into  the  stomach.     Then  I'll  have 


a  chicken  for  the  nitrogenous  course,  for 
tissue  building  and  muscle  repairing  and 
energy  producing.  Meat-eating  I  am 
convinced  is  wrong,  but  you  can't  reform 
folks  all  in  one  meal.  Xow  comes  the 
backbone  of  my  contention :  the  starchy 
element  shall  not  consist  of  the  everlast- 
ing mashed  potatoes,  so  dear  to  Bobbie's 
heart,  'with  plentv^  of  gravy  on  'em,'  but 
of  macaroni,  which  is  a  substitute  for 
the  tuber,  so  my  handbook  reads.  It 
shall  be  deviled  macaroni,  in  deference 
to  brother  James'  taste,  who  liked  things 
hot  and  pepper)-.  Then  I'll  have  a  green 
and  succulent  vegetable  and  a  salad  to 
furnish  the  mineral  salts  so  necessarj-  to 
the  properly  nourished  body.  Let's  see. 
creamed  cabbage  (boiled,  it  is  indigest- 
ible) and  Waldorf  salad  will  fill  the  re- 
quirements. And  I  won't  serve  a  per- 
nicious boiled  mayonnaise,  either,  which 
is  so  hard  upon  the  stomach,  but  a  daint)- 
dressing  of  oil  and  vinegar.  I  know 
Aunt  Molly  detests  olive  oil,  but  she's 
so  backwoodsy  in  her  knowledge  of  food 
values.  Xow  for  the  saccharine  ele- 
ment. Xone  of  those  hea\y  puddings, 
pies  or  cakes  of  which  John  so  persist- 
ently carols!  Of  course,  I  am  aware 
that  the  proper  ending  to  a  hea\y  dinner 
should  be  the  salad,  but  pampered  ap- 
petites demand  a  sweet.  So  I'll  be  kill- 
ing two  birds  with  one  stone,  if  I  serve 
a  gelatinous  dessert  with  fruits  molded 
in  it,  for  the  gelatine  has  no  specific 
value  as  a  food,  but  will  serve  as  a  set- 
ting for  the  fruit  which  should  be  an 
accompaniment  to  everv-  meal,  and  not 
one  of  those  folks  are  fond  of  fruit. 
Marguerites,  instead  of  rich  cakes,  al- 
though Uncle's  teeth  are  bad  and  he 
likes  things  soft.  X'o  huge  cups  of  coffee 
as  has  been  their  wont,  but  tiny  after 
dinner  affairs,  and  served  at  the  end  of 
the  meal,  as  should  be  for  proper  diges- 


415 


416 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


tion.  No  cream  or  sugar,  but  black. 
And  there  won't  be  enough  for  a  second 
helping  either.  'One  small  cup  of  black 
coffee,  taken  at  the  end  of  the  meal,  aids 
digestion;  more  than  that  retards  it.' 
Those  are  the  very  words. 

*T  might  just  as  well  begin  now  to  put 
my  knowledge  into  practice,  no  matter 
what  they  say  about  it." 

So  down  came  Uncle  Jim  and  Aunt 
Molly  and  James  and  little  Bobby  to 
break  bread  with  the  Enlightened  One. 
Their  mouths  watered  for  the  good 
square  meal  that  had  always  been  their 
portion  on  former  occasions.  If  they 
only  knew  what  awaited  them  instead  of 
the  good  old  chicken,  gravy  and  mashed 
potatoes,  browned  sweet  ones,  too,  boiled 
cabbage,  cold  slaw,  mince  pie  and  pound 
cake! 

The  Enlightened  One  started  for  the 
kitchen  to  prepare  dinner.  Her  heart 
was  brave  yet!  Aunt  Molly  went  along 
to  help. 

"Now  where  are  the  potatoes?"  she 
asked,  innocently,  'Til  be  peeling  them." 

The  first  little  tremor  shook  the  En- 
lightened One's  voice  as  she  answered: 

"I'm  not  going  to  have  potatoes,  but 
macaroni,  instead.  It's  starchy,  you 
know."  She  ended  with  a  Httle  appeal 
in  her  voice.  It's  hard  to  face  a  woman 
with  years  of  reputation  back  of  her, 
when  you've  a  new  idea  to  exploit.  It's 
as  if  you  were  treading  upon  holy 
groind — rushing  in  where  angels  fear  to 
tread,  don't  you  know. 


Aunt  Molly  dropped  the  paring  knife 
and  just  stared.  But  the  Enlightened 
One  had  her  back  turned  so  that  she 
wouldn't  see  the  look  which  she  knew 
would  be  there.  She  was  conserving  her 
courage. 

Dinner  was  being  carried  into  the 
dining  room  when  Bobby  offered  his 
services. 

"I'll  carry  the  potatoes,"  he  said. 

"I  haven't  any  potatoes.  I  have  maca- 
roni instead."  She  took  a  deep  breath 
before  answering. 

Bobby  also  stared  with  wide  open  eyes 
like  a  boy  who  has  just  had  a  peep  into 
the  unreal. 

At  the  table,  the  man  who  does  the 
carving  gazed  around  questioningly. 

"Where  are  the  potatoes.  Patsy?" 

But  that  was  the  last  straw ! 

"I  haven't  any !"  She  was  indignant 
now.  "It's  perfectly  absurd  to  suppose 
one  can't  get  up  a  dinner  without 
potatoes !  I've  macaroni  instead,"  she 
finished  with  all  the  courage  of  her  con- 
victions in  her  tones. 

The  carver  subsided,  and  a  strange 
silence  fell  upon  the  astonished  group. 
All  eyes  were  on  the  Enlightened  One 
and  each  eye  said,  "Why,  what's  the 
matter  with  Patsy?  The  poor  child's 
not  right!" 

And  their  apprehensions  were  not 
lessened  by  the  ensuing  courses,  good- 
ness knows ! 

But  Patsy  had  made  a  beginning,  and 
the  campaign  was  on! 


The  Sun's  Wooing 

By  Helen  Coale  Crew 


In  the  shadowy  glens  and   aisles 

April    smiles. 
Under  willows,   dim  and  sweet, 
Where   within  the  quickening   mould 

Buds    unfold, 
Gleam  the  prints  of  April's  dancing  feet. 

I  will  seek  this  maid  divine, 

Make  her  mine; 
Clasp   her  closely,   still  her   fears. 
She  shall  have  for  bridal  veil 

Windflowers   pale, 
I  will  kiss  away  all  trace  of  April's  tears ! 


And   what    music    follows   after ! 

April's   laughter ! 
By  a  thousand  feathered  throats, 
By  warm  whispering  raindrops   falling, 

She  is  calling. 
She  is  singing  all  her  scale  of  joyous  notes 


An  Interlude 

By  Alice  Thorn 


IT  was  Cynthia's  thirtieth  birthday. 
I  repeat  it  was  her  thirtieth,  and 
because  it  was,  she  put  on  her  very 
most  becoming  frock,  a  pink  one,  whose 
severe  hnes  suited  well  her  slim  shape, 
and  whose  tint  always  seemed  to  add  a 
soft  glow  to  her  rounded  cheeks.  ''Un- 
doubtedly, my  throat  is  good,"  remarked 
Cynthia,  addressing  her  mirrored  image, 
and  patting  the  white  column  affection- 
ately, ''hair  thick  and  rather  shining, 
even  if  I  am — "  but  she  paused,  refusing 
to  breathe  the  hateful  figures  even  to 
herself,  for  this  especial  birthday  she 
found  decidedly  trying. 

"I  believe  I  shan't  mind  being  fifty  any 
more  than  I  do  thirty,"  she  mused 
drearily,  as  a  few  moments  later,  her 
toilet  completed,  she  stood  by  the  win- 
dow, looking  out  over  the  snowy  land- 
scape, the  quiet  avenue  with  its  lines  of 
leafless  trees,  and  beyond  the  open  stretch 
of  campus  surrounded  by  tall  buildings. 
Bright  lights  gleamed  from  the  dormi- 
tory windows,  and  now  from  some  side 
street  she  heard  a  rollicking  air,  boomed 
out  by  a  not  unmusical  baritone. 

"I'm  glad  Mrs.  Johnnie  is  going  to 
have  a  little  dinner  to-night,"  she  con- 
tinued, "I  need  to  be  diverted.  Guess 
I'll  relieve  my  mind  by  telling  her  the 
horrid  truth.  She  confided  to  me  last 
summer  that  she  was  thirty-three,  and 
she'll  like  me  just  as  much  when  she 
hears  my  age.  I  feel  as  if  I  had  known 
her  a  great  deal  more  than  seven  months, 
but  it  doesn't  take  congenial  spirits  long 
to  become  well  acquainted  at  a  mountain 
inn.  I  know  from  what  she  said  that  she 
thought  that  I  was  younger  than  I  am." 

Mrs.  John  Dunscombe,  known  to  her 
intimates  as  Mrs.  Johnnie,  was  awaiting 
her  in  the  hall,  as  she  came  slowly  down 
the  stairs,  slipping  one  hand  along  the 
banister's  polished  rail. 


"Well,  you  are  a  refreshing  sight,"  ex- 
claimed Mrs.  Johnnie,  as  she  spied 
Cynthia  in  her  pink  frock,  "too  bad  I've 
no  young  man  for  you  this  evening,  only 
Dr.  Appleton — to  give  him  his  rightful 
title.  Dr.  Ithamer  Appleton.  He's  fifty- 
five  if  a  day,  and  looks  his  age,  I  feel  to 
say,  but  he's  learned,  my  friend,  oh,  mon- 
strously learned,  awe-inspiringly  so,  and 
a  confirmed  old  bachelor.  It  is  but  fitting 
that  I  should  inform  one  guest  about  an- 
other. All  these  items  I  gleaned  from 
my  John,  who  once  in  the  interest  of 
science  (doesn't  that  sound  well?),  was 
his  guest  for  a  day,  a  year  or  so  ago.  Well 
now.  Dr.  Appleton  is  here  in  Croxton, 
giving  a  course  of  lectures  at  the  Col- 
lege. True,  he  is  old,  but  is  an  unmarried 
man  ever  too  old  to  be  talked  to?  And 
right  here,  I'll  promise  to  do  better  by 
you  next  time." 

"What  a  superior  occasion  it  bids  fair 
to  be,"  laughed  Cynthia,  tucking  in  a 
rebellious  lock  of  hair  as  she  spoke, 
"your  own  wise  Professor,  and  now  this 
Doctor,  too, — can't  we  weave  in,  the  two 
of  us,  Mrs.  Johnnie,  some  frivolous  side 
remarks  ?" 

"We'll  try,"  agreed  Mrs.  Johnnie. 

"You  don't  know  that  to-day  is  a  cer- 
tain horrid  anniversary,"  began  Cynthia 
nervously  as  she  settled  herself  in  a  broad 
wicker  chair  by  the  open  fire. 

"Oh,  your  natal  day,  is  it?"  was  her 
hostess'  reply — "well,  I  certainly  would 
have  had  at  least  two  more  courses  at 
dinner,  and  a  sparkly  birthday  cake 
therewith  to  end  the  feast,  had  you  not 
waited  thus  late  to  inform  me.  You 
look  about  twenty,  to-night;  I've  seen 
you  look  twenty-two,  but  you  probably 
are  really  older.  Want  to  'fess?  If  not. 
I  may  think  you  forty  at  least." 

"Mrs.  Johnnie,"  whispered  Cynthia, 
acquiring   a   decided   color,   "just  Hsten, 


417 


418 


FHE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    AlAGAZiNK 


['m  old,  I'm  truly  old — of  course  1  mean 
for  an  unmarried  person,  I'm,  well — 
I'm  thirty !  Now  what  do  you  think  of 
that!" 

"Why,"  said  the  older  woman,  with 
a  merry  laugh,  ''that  isn't  so  alarming; 
I'm  older,  myself — all  the  women  of  the 
faculty  are  old — cheer  up,  you  give  the 
lie  to  the  calendar.  Always  wear  pink, 
and  never  tell  anybody  but  me  your  real 
age." 

*1  feel  just  at  this  moment,"  sighed 
Cynthia,  ''as  if  this  Dr.  Ishmael,  or  what- 
ever his  name  is,  were-  about  a  fit  play- 
mate for  me,  so  old  do  I  feel." 

"Wait  until  you  see  our  honored 
guest,"  broke  in  j\Irs.  Dunscombe,  "his 
Christian  name  is  Ithamer,  by  the  way, 
should  you  feel  impelled  to-night  to  ad- 
dress him  thus  familiarly,  be  sure  and 
say  Ithamer.  Wait  until  you  see  him, 
and  then  tell  me  truly  if  he  be  a  mate 
for  you,  you  disgracefully  blooming 
creeter." 

It  was  at  this  moment  that  the  tread 
of  masculine  feet  sounded  in  the  hall, 
and  Prof.  Dunscombe  ushered  in  a  tall, 
thin,  blonde  man,  who  adjusted  his  eye 
glasses  as  he  acknowledged  the  intro- 
duction, and  smiled  in  wintry  fashion  at 
the  two  smiling  women. 

It  w^as  not  until  the  fish  course  that 
Cynthia  found  herself  studying  the  in- 
tent, scholarly  face  across  the  table,  the 
alert  blue  eyes,  noting  the  low,  well-bred 
tones.  He  was  deep  in  a  discussion  with 
Prof.  Dunscombe,  evidently  forgetting 
for  the  time  his  hostess  and  her  guest, 
and  Mrs.  Johnnie  herself  was  too  busy 
watching  her  new  waitress  to  have  eyes 
for  anything  else.  But  I  am  sure  she 
would  have  given  her  undivided  atten- 
tion to  her  attractive  friend,  had  she 
been  able  to  read  Cynthia's  thoughts, 
which  ran  something  after  this  wise: — 
''He  doesn't  look  so  old ;  I've  seen  men 
of  forty-five  that  were  every  bit  as  gray. 
Lots  of  girls  marry  men  much  older  than 
themselves.     An  elderly  husband   would 


make  one  look  truly  young,  always.  He's 
interesting,  no  doubt  of  that.  I  believe 
I  could  like  him.  Fancy  Mrs.  Ithamai 
Appleton,  on  one's  visiting  cards! 
Wouldn't  such  a  well  known  name  im- 
press the  people  at  home?  I  think  ] 
remember  studying  one  of  his  text 
books  at  college — wonder  if  I  can't  en 
tertain  him !" 

Before  he  quite  realized  how  it  came 
about  Dr.  Appleton  found  himself  talk- 
ing exclusively  to  a  starry-eyed  young 
person,  who  smiled  innocently,  and  made 
sundry  pertinent  remarks  that  appeared 
to  interest  him.  Mrs.  Johnnie  and  her 
John,  left  perforce  to  their  own  devices, 
conversed  together  in  comfortable  mar- 
ried fashion,  though  Mrs.  John,  it  i^ 
true,  did,  not  without  inward  amuse- 
ment, steal  occasional  glances  at  her 
friend  Cynthia,  whose  natal  day  it  was. 

"My  collection  of  uncut  stones  is  at 
the  College  Aluseum  for  two  weeks,'" 
said  Dr.  Appleton,  "now  if  you  and  Mrs. 
Dunscombe  are  interested  in  such  a  col- 
lection, it  would  be  a  great  pleasure  to 
show  them  to  you,  say  Friday  of  this 
week." 

Cynthia,  all  eagerness  and  attention, 
looked  enquiringly  at  her  friend,  and. 
thus  implored,  that  young  matron  re- 
sponded cordially,  that  it  would  be  most 
delightful,  and  that  Friday  would  suit 
them  exactly.  "I  know  Miss  Board- 
man's  feminine  love  for  stones,  cut  and 
uncut,"  she  added,  and  Cynthia  chimed 
in,  "I  should  like  it  immensely." 

Half  an  hour  later  Cynthia's  sympa 
thetic  mezzo  was  assuring  the  group 
gathered  in  the  drawing-room  that,  given 
the  choice,  she  would  certainly  choose 
love  instead  of  peace,  as  one  could  in 
no  wise  have  both.  Dr.  Appleton  was 
leaning  forward,  a  most  gratifying  lis- 
tener, and  when  he  asked  for  one  more 
song,  Cynthia's  cheeks  glowed  their 
tribute  as  she  very  sweetly  consented  to 
give  an  encore. 

"Well.  Cynthia,"  began  her  friend  as 


AN    INTERLUDE 


419 


the  door  closed  on  the  courteous  Doctor 
and,  John  having  sought  his  den,  they 
were  left  alone,  "on  the  whole,  my  dear, 
[  think  I'd  better  ask  Dr.  Appleton  again 
to  dine;  he'd  come.  You  certainly  made 
a  pleasing  evening  for  our  learned 
friend,  and,"  diplomatically,  "really  he 
didn't  seem  nearly  as  elderly  and  settled 
as  I  thought  him.  John  says  his  old  col- 
onial house  just  outside  Hartford  is 
beautiful.  Such  treasures  of  antique 
furniture,  family  pieces,  all  of  them,  and 
there  he  lives  alone,  with  just  his  ancient 
housekeeper  and  the  servants.  Isn't  he 
distinctly  agreeable?  But  Cynthia," — as 
the  clock  struck  twelve  warning  strokes, 
**Cynthia,  I  don't  quite  understand  you, 
Vm  inclined  to  think  you're  rather  the 
bad  child.  Oh,  yes,  you  are.  Good 
night." 

Long  after  she  should  have  been  asleep 
the  girl  lay  with  wide-open  eyes,  gazing 
at  the  wavering  curtains  and  the  glow  of 
the  street  light  upon  the  wall.  Was  she 
fated  to  become  interested  in  a  man  of 
fifty-five,  actually  was  she?  Could  it  be 
because  she  was  just  turned  thirty?  But 
how  stimulating  was  this  new  experi- 
ence! A  picture  of  that  old  home  rose 
before  her:  only  an  aged  housekeeper  to 
run  it.  How  odd  would  a  young  mis- 
tress look  in  those  quiet  rooms !  A  pink 
cheeked  chatelaine,  who  might  do  as  she 
would,  changing  the  furniture  to  suit  her 
younger  notions,  displacing  sober  hang- 
ings ;  adding  the  needed  feminine  touch 
to  the  whole.  Meeting  graciously  and 
tactfully  the  older  friends  and  neigh- 
bors, coming  like  a  ray  of  sunshine  into 
the  precise  dwelling.  Free  to  go  in  and 
out  of  that  holy  of  holies,  the  library  of 
the  Master  of  it  all,  with  a  frou-frou  of 
frilly  skirts,  resting  her  hand  upon  his 
desk,  looking  ridiculously  girlish. 

''Why,  Doctor,"  she  could  almost  hear, 
"is  this  then,  that  young — "  and  then 
she  fell  asleep. 

Cynthia  and  Mrs.  Dunscombe  were 
duly   delighted   with   the   collection    that 


Dr.  Appleton,  not  without  pride,  exhib- 
ited the  following  Friday.  *T  have  no 
doubt,"  he  remarked,  smiling  rather 
grimly,  "that  had  I  been  a  woman,  a 
goodly  share  of  these  stones  would  long 
ago  have  been  set  in  rings  and  brooches." 

"But,"  retorted  Cynthia,  gaily,  "being 
a  mere  man,  you  have  not  spoiled  your 
treasures  by  having  them  polished  and 
mounted." 

Mrs.  John  stole  a  wicked  look  at  her 
guest  as  she  fingered  an  interesting  look- 
ing bit  of  diamond  crystal,  and  Cynthia, 
understanding  perfectly  that  look,  re- 
turned no  answering  glance,  but  gave 
flattering  attention  to  the  collection,  as  a 
proper  maid  should. 

Dr  Appleton  came  again  to  dinner 
early  in  the  following  week,  made  his 
dinner  call  duly,  and  now  Cynthia's  visit 
was  drawing  to  an  end.  Even  the  obtuse 
John  had  ventured  a  jovial  remark  or 
two  to  Cynthia  about  his  elderly  doctor 
friend,  and  as  for  ^Irs.  John,  her  joy  in 
the  whole  thing  was  apparent. 

"That  nice,  dark,  assistant  professor, 
is  coming  to  call  to-night,  Cynthia,"  an- 
nounced Mrs.  Dunscombe  one  morning. 
"I  trust  you  won't  find  a  mere  child  of 
thirty-five  or  so,  boring.  He  accepted 
my  invitation,  with  effusion.  By  the 
way,  where  are  you  bound  for  now,  oh. 
worldly,  scheming  maid!" 

"No  worldly  schemer  am  I,"  was  Cyn- 
thia's reply, — "as  for  your  assistant  pro- 
fessor, bring  him  on  by  all  means.  I'm 
on  my  way  to  the  library,"  taking  on  an 
added  color  as  she  spoke,  "there  to  feed 
and  refresh  my  mind.  I  won't  be  late 
for  lunch,  ]\Irs.  Johnnie." 

She  walked  briskly  down  the  street. 
humming  softly  as  she  went.  It  was  late 
]\Iarch,  and  a  fresh  dust  of  snow  pow- 
dered the  bare  shrubs  and  stone  cornices. 
A  chill  wind  found  her  as  she  turned  to 
cross  over  to  the  library,  and  she  gath- 
ered her  dark  furs  more  closely  about 
her  throat.  Seeking  one  of  the  little 
reference  rooms,  she  chose  a  bulky  vol- 


420 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


ume,  opened  it  in  rather  aimless  fashion, 
then  quickly  laid  it  down,  and  began  to 
adjust  her  toque  and  blown  hair.  One 
was  so  apt  to  meet  acquaintances  at  a 
library,  and  should  Dr.  Appleton  happen 
on  her,  she  was  sure  ruffled  locks  would 
shock  his  sense  of  propriety !  A  familiar 
voice  behind  her  roused  her  from  the 
reverie  into  which  she  had  fallen,  and  she 
turned  to  see  the  man  of  whom  she  was 
thinking,  holding  out  a  thin  gloved  hand. 

"So  you,  too,  find  your  way  here,"  he 
said,  glancing  at  the  book  in  her  lap. 

'Tm  very  fond  of  this  little  library," 
glowed  Cynthia,  "it's  such  an  artistic 
place !" 

"I'm  fond  of  it,  also,"  replied  her  com- 
panion, "the  arrangement  and  the  color- 
ing are  admirable,  and  the  lighting  of 
these  reference  rooms  especially  fortu- 
nate," and  then  Dr.  Appleton  launched 
off  into  descriptions  of  different  college 
libraries  with  which  he  was  familiar,  and 
with  wide,  gray  eyes  lifted  to  his,  Cyn- 
thia formed  an  attentive  audience  of  one. 
She  had  never  noticed  before  that  his 
face  was  so  deeply  lined ;  it  looked  almost 
pinched  to-day.  Doubtless  it  was  a  trick 
of  the  pitiless  March  sunshine,  that 
streamed  into  the  window  by  which  he 
was  standing,  and  as  he  passed  his  hand, 
once,  nervously,  through  his  hair,  she  ob- 
served that  the  graying  locks  were 
sparse. 

A  round-faced  young  fellow,'  evidently 
an  upper  classman,  passed  the  alcove, 
and  Cynthia  heard  him  say  to  his  com- 
panion, in  a  low  tone,  "Why,  that's  Dr. 
Appleton,  freshie,  he's  giving  lectures 
here.  Guess  the  girl  with  him  must  be 
his  daughter!" 

The  girl  hoped  that  the  subject  of 
their  discussion  had  not  heard  the  re- 
mark, and  not  until  a  few  moments  later 
she  began,  "I  believe,  Doctor,  we  shall 
see  you  Monday  evening  when  the  Facul- 
ty Club  meets  with  Mrs.  Dunscombe." 

"I  am  sorry  to  say  no,"  responded  Dr. 
Appleton,  "I  am  sure  I  should  have 
found  it  most  enjoyable:  truth  to  tell,  I 


have  been  idling  too  much,  and  my  inex- 
orable publishers  summon  me  that  day 
for  an  interview  in  New  York." 

"I  am  going  home  Tuesday,"  added  the 
girl  rather  soberly. 

"Indeed!"  was  her  companion's  re- 
sponse, "I  trust  your  stay  here  has  been 
a  pleasant  one.  Personally,  I  feel  almost 
an  affection  for  Croxton  and  its  college, 
so  many  agreeable  hours  have  I  spent 
in  the  little  town.  Nearly  thirty-seven 
years  ago,"  smiling  quizzically,  "just 
think  of  that,  my  dear  young  friend,  what 
a  length  of  time,  I  visited  a  college  chum 
of  my  father's,  whose  home  was  here. 
He  was  a  good  man,  and  gave  me  much 
advice,  rather  unpalatable  at  the  time,  1 
recollect,  but  some  of  which  I  might. 
with  profit,  have  followed. 

His  indulgent,  older  manner  mkde 
Cynthia  feel,  somehow,  young  and  inex- 
perienced, oddly  out  of  touch  with  the 
man  beside  her,  and  it  was  with  a  trace 
of  awkwardness  that  she  said :  "Do  you 
never  come  to  New  Hampshire,  Doctor? 
It  would  be  delightful  to  welcome  you 
to  my  home.  My  father  knows  your 
books  well." 

"Now  that's  very  kind  of  you,  ver>- 
kind,"  was  the  reply,  "but,  as  I  sail  for 
England  the  last  of  May,  there  to  remain 
a  year,  I  fear  I  cannot  take  advantage 
of  the  many  delightful  invitations  that 
my  friends  extend  to  me.  However,  I 
will  make  a  note  of  your  address,  and 
it  may  be  that  some  time  we  shall  meet 
again.  I  know  I  am  keeping  you  from 
your  reading,  and  now,  if  you  will  ex- 
cuse me,"  his  eyes  wandering  to  one  of 
the  professors  just  entering,  "I  want  to 
speak  to  Brittingham — "Oh,  Professor, 
will  you  wait  one  moment? — Good-bye. 
— Good-bye,  Miss  Boardman,"  and  he 
was  gone. 

Cynthia  drew  on  her  gloves  hastily, 
watched  intently  for  a  few  seconds  the 
tall  figure  with  its  scholarly  stoop,  then 
passing  through  the  main  room,  opened 
the  front  door  and  went  slowly  down 
the  long  steps.    Suddenly  to  her  surprise 


A  BASEBALL  ENTERTAINMENT 


421 


her  eyes  blurred  with  hot  tears.  She 
winked  hard,  gave  a  few  furtive  dabs 
with  her  handkerchief,  and  straightened 
her  shoulders  as  if  to  pull  herself  to- 
gether. "Said  he'd  make  a  note  of  it," 
she  murmured,  gave  an  hysterical  little 
laugh,  and  felt,  all  at  once,  strangely 
free,  even  buoyant,  as  when  a  child,  les- 
sons over,  she  ran  out  of  the  confining 
school  room  into  the  familiar  garden 
spaces,  at  liberty  to  wander  at  will.  What 
a  logical  ending  it  was,  after  all,  to  her, 
could  she  call  it,  romance?  Rather  say 
the  fall  of  an  absurd  air  castle  she  had 
built,  adding  to  it  from  day  to  day. 
Around  the  corner  of  the  campus   a 


tall  man  appeared,  not  elderly  this  one, 
but  broad  shouldered,  brown  skinned  and 
strong;  instinct  with  life  who,  as  he 
passed,  met  her  eyes  with  evident  in- 
terest. 

She  observed  that  the  sun  had  quite 
melted  the  snow.  On  the  terrace  of  the 
gymnasium  the  grass  was  really  green; 
in  the  President's  grounds  a  few  adven- 
turous crocuses  lifted  their  purple  cups, 
and  a  wind,  sweet  with  promise,  swept 
across  the  hedges. 

"Why,  it's  spring !"  whispered  Cynthia 
to  herself ;  involuntarily  she  quickened 
her  steps,  and  all  her  dimples  deepened, 
"Young  Spring." 


A  Baseball  Entertainment 

By  Mrs.  S.  J.  H. 


A  MOTHER  with  an  only  son,  to 
whom  she  was  devoted,  planned 
this  characteristic  party  for  a  surprise. 
The  guests  were  just  the  members  of  his 
baseball  nine,  and  they  were  invited  to 
luncheon  at  twelve  prompt.  Places  were 
found  at  the  table  by  the  position  the 
boy  held  on  the  "team"  and  the  cards 
were  tiny  fans  with  simply  the  word 
"pitcher,"  "catcher,"  etc.,  on  them.  For 
menu  cards  there  were  booklets  of  the 
team's  colors,  which  read  "Official  Score." 
There  were  nine  courses  or  "innings." 
I  give  them  entire,  but  the  eatables  were 
not  on  the  cards  given  the  boys,  and 
guessing  what  came  next  broke  up  any 
stiffness  that  there  might  have  been. 
The  favors  were  tickets  to  a  big  game 
which  the  boy's  father  provided  as  his 
share  of  the  treat,  and  a  doting  aunt  had 
a  tin  horn  for  each  one  tied  with  long 
streamers  of  the  "nine's"  colors.  The 
mother  said  afterward  that  she  never 
gave  a  party  with  such  enthusiastic 
guests,  who  relieved  her  afterward  of  all 
responsibility  for  their  entertainment. 
The  menu  for  baseball  luncheon  was  as 
-follows : 


First  Inning 

First  strike   (Oyster  cocktail) 

Second  Inning 

Where  the  losing  team  lands  .  .  .  (Soup) 

Third  Inning 

Caught  on  the  fly 

(Small   trout    with    diamonds   of 
crisp  toast) 

Fourth  Inning 

A   sacrifice    

(Lamb  chops  with  potato  balls) 
Fifth  Inning 

A  "fowl  ball"   

(Chicken  croquettes,  French  peas) 
Sixth  Inning 

The  umpire  when  we  lose   

(Lobster  salad  and  cheese  straws) 
Seventh  Inning 

A  fine  diamond  

(Ice     cream     in     diamond-shape 
slices,  cakes) 

Eighth  Inning 

Necessary  for  good  playing 

(Preserved    ginger    with    wafers 
and  coffee) 

Ninth  Inning 

Everybody  scores    

(The  passing  of  favors) 


422 


THE     BOSTON     COOKING-SCHOOL     MAGAZINE 


THE 

BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary    Science    and    Domestic    Economics 
Janet    McKenzie    Hill,    Editor 

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ECONOMICS 

ECONOMICS  has  already  become  an 
accepted  branch  of  study  in  many 
of  our  schools  and  colleges.  It  is  well 
that  this  subject  be  thus  recognized, 
for  it  seems  destined  to  be  the  question 
prominent  above  all  others  in  future 
legislation,  both  state  and  national. 

The  cost  of  living  and  the  rate  of  taxa- 
tion seem  to  increase  in  direct  ratio; 
and,  without  good  and  sufficient  reason, 
people  do  not  take  kindly  to  advance  of 
rates  in  either  of  these  lines  of  expendi- 
ture. No  economic  poHcy  that  calls  for 
increased  general  taxation  is  likely  to  be 
anything  else  than  unpopular  and  dis- 
astrous to  its  advocates.  Hence  we  can 
easily  account  for  the  great  popularity 
of  the  proposed  pact  of  reciprocity  on  the 
part  of  this  country  and  our  next  door 
neighbor  on  the  north.  The  wider  the 
open  markets  the  fairer  the  opportunities 
for  the  ready  exchange  of  the  products, 
both  natural  and  manufactured,  of  either 
land. .  What  people  the  world  over  desire 
and  need  most  is  the  privilege,  without 
governmental  let  or  hindrance,  to  buy 
in  the  cheapest  and  sell  in  the  dearest 
markets.  This  is  the  incentive  to  all  trade 
and  commerce.  Wants  to  be  supplied  is 
the  sole  condition  of  commercial  activity 

In  public  or  private  affairs,  we  take  it. 
economy  does  not  mean  so  much  the 
saving  and  hoarding  of  wealth  as  it  does 
the  wise  and  prudent  expenditure  of 
one's  resources.  To  live  within  one's 
means,  that  thrift  so  highly  extolled  and 
exemplified  in  the  life  of  the  wise  and 
many-sided  Franklin,  is  always  to  be 
commended.  And  conditions  that  will 
allow  a  people  to  live  securely  and 
happily  within  their  means  should  be 
the  prime  object  of  all  government  and 
legislation. 

In  industrial  matters  to-day  "the  tend- 
ency," it  is  said,  "is  steadily  toward  in- 
creasing governmental  control.  This 
control  must  be  not  only  physical,  but 
social,  for  the  reason  that  oppression  of 


EDITORIALS 


423 


the  individual,  against  which  govern- 
ment is  designed  to  protect  its  citizens, 
is  no  longer  physical  oppression,  but  a 
more  subtle  form  of  social  and  indus- 
trial oppression.  People  are  feeling  very 
widely  the  inconsistency  existing  to-day 
between  political  democracy  and  in- 
dustrial absolutism,  and  are  doubting 
the  possibility  of  their  continued  co- 
existence side  by  side.  They  are  begin- 
ning to  doubt,  also,  whether  there  is 
really  a  justification  for  the  great  in- 
equalities that  prevail  in  the  distribution 
of  wealth." 

The  word  economics  is  somewhat 
difficult  of  comprehension  and  lacking, 
perhaps,  in  clear  definition,  but  the  term 
industrial  matters  is  readily  grasped  and 
understood  by  the  average  mind.  In  the 
future  as  in  the  past  industrial  matters 
must  be  the  chief  concern  of  men  and 
women  who  are  in  any  wise  engaged  in 
earning  a  livelihood. 

HOW  ONE  BUSY  WOMAN  KEEPS 
HER  FRIENDS 

"  'Vr  OU  are  such  a  busy  lady  with 
your  house  work,  church  work 
and  sewing  that  I  do  not  see  how  you 
manage  to  keep  so  many  friends.  Half 
the  people  in  the  town  know  you  and  are 
friendly  with  you ;  yet  you  never  give  a 
reception  or  a  tea  or — " 

"No,  indeed,"  broke  in  the  Busy 
Woman. 

"Or  even  go  calling  that  I  can  see," 
finished   the   puzzled   neighbor. 

"And  I  am  not  young  nor  pretty  nor 
rich  nor  even  stylish,"  added  the  lady 
with  a  rare  smile.  Then  she  said  soberly, 
half  to  herself,  "It  is  rather  queer  that 
people  stay  friendly  with  me.  I  hadn't 
thought  of  it  before." 

"O  I  didn't  mean  it  just  that  way," 
stammered  the  caller.  "Of  course  those 
that  know  you  love  you  because  you  are 
lovable;  but  I  wondered  how  it  is  that 
people  who  know  you  only  a  little  do 
not  cut  you  dead  for  not  returning  their 
calls  within  a  certain  time  or  leave  you 


out  of  their  parties,  because  you  do  not 
entertain.  I  asked  for  my  own  sake.  I 
have  such  a  time  trying  to  keep  the 
peace,  apologize  and  go  as  much  as  I 
do." 

The  Busy  Woman  narrowed  her  eyes 
at  the  flame  in  the  grate  for  a  few 
moments  before  she  spoke : 

"Give  my  telephone  a  large  share  of 
the  credit.  When  the  evening  paper 
comes  in — that  is  my  leisure  time — I  scan 
its  social  columns  for  the  names  of 
friends.  If  one  is  mentioned  as  just 
returning  from  a  long  trip  or  a  summer's 
sojourn,  I  go  straight  to  the  phone,  call 
her  up,  and  give  her  a  cordial  greeting, 
asking  about  her  travels.  Indeed,  any 
event  of  importance  in  my  friends'  lives 
means  a  phone  message  from  me,  for  it 
is  less  formal  and  quicker  than  a  note, 
and  it  voices  my  sincere  interest  in  them. 

"And  you  would  be  surprised  to  see 
how  it  pleases  people,  especially  those 
who  are  not  intimate  friends.  I  do  this 
usually  in  the  early  evening  hours,  when 
the  call  is  not  apt  to  be  an  interruption. 

"Then  I  have  found  that  a  long- 
stemmed,  beautiful  flower  and  my  card, 
carried  by  Dorothy,  pleases  a  friend 
better  than  a  call;  so  when  I  am  work- 
ing in  my  garden,  getting  fresh  air  and 
recreation  for  myself,  I  am  also  grow- 
ing a  number  of  calls,  doing  them  with 
a  hoe  instead  of  a  cardcase.  We  forget 
that  well  people  love  flowers  as  much  as 
sick  people  do;  besides, — note  this — a 
lady  doesn't  have  to  be  in  afternoon 
dress  to  receive  either  the  telephone  or 
the  flower  greeting. 

"Another  thing  I  love  to  do  is  to  send 
a  new  magazine  or  paper,  with  some 
specially  good  article  marked,  for  a 
neighbor's  perusal,  an  article  that  I  know 
appeals  to  her  taste  or  chief  interest. 
It  is  easy  to  remember  a  friend's  fads, 
and  it  is  easy  to  get  the  habit  of  read- 
ing with  half  an  eye  for  them  and  three- 
fourths  for  self.  None  of  these  things 
takes  any  time  to  speak  of,  either.  But 
when   folks   are   sick,   I   do   try   to   give 


424 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


them   more   time,    doing   something   un- 
usual if  possible. 

"Then  I  do  wholesale  calling  in  sum- 
mer-time. I  walk  around  this  block  or 
that  one,  and  stop  for  little  chats  with 
families  sitting  on  their  porches.  One 
trip  serves  to  see  a  lot  of  friends  in- 
formally. No,  these  aren't  calls,  but 
they  keep  us  in  touch  with  our  neighbors 
and  save  calls.  I  just  insist  on  staying 
friendly  and  informal,  never  apologizing 
for  not  coming  otherwise. 

"In  fact,  dear,  I  wonder  if  that  isn't 
the  root  of  the  matter?  Being  cheery 
and  unruffled  one's  self,  and  showing  an 
interest  in  everyone  and  their  affairs 
wherever  and  whenever  we  meet?  It 
isn't  what  you  say  so  much  as  the  way 
you  say  it  and  the  way  you  look  at  them 
when  you  say  it.  For  whether  high  or 
low  in  the  social  scale,  people  crave 
sympathetic  friendliness.  They  turn  to 
a  smile  as  our  eyes  turn  to  this  grate 
fire,  involuntarily,  instinctively,  hoping 
for  warmth  of  soul. 

*'The  telephone,  the  gift  of  a  flower, 
choice  seeds  or  cuttings,  the  loan  of  a 
magazine  or  book,  the  sidewalk  call,  the 
quick  congratulations  or  words  of  sym- 
pathy— all  these  things  help  to  keep 
friends ;  but  after  all,  dear,  nothing  takes 
the  place  of  the  T  like  you'  look  and 
tone.  If  you  don't  forget  people,  they 
won't  forget  you ;  and  if  you  show  that 
you  like  them,  they  will  think  you  the 
'loveliest  woman  in  town.'  " 

L.  M.  c. 

THE  AMERICAN  WOMAN 

OF  the  late  David  Graham  Phillips, 
who  is  thought  in  his  stories  to 
have  exposed  relentlessly  the  foibles  of 
women,  Mrs.  Annie  Nathan  Meyer 
writes  in  the  New  York  Times: 

"He  is  not  content,  for  instance,  with 
painting  his  heroine  as  lazy,  for  the 
American  woman  is  anything  but  lazy. 
He  is  penetrating  enough  to  know  that 
she  is  lazy  only  where  she  is  indiflferent. 
He    does    not    paint    her    as    hopelessly 


stupid,  for  he  knows  that  in  her  own 
little  line  of  social  activities  she  is  a 
general — Napoleonic  even  if  Lilliputian. 
How  well  he  hits  the  nail  on  the  head: 
Tt  was  impossible  to  interest  her  in  any- 
thing worth  while.  But  as  to  the  things 
in  which  she  was  interested,  none  could 
have  thought  more  clearly  or  keenly,  or 
could  have  acted  with  more  vigor  and 
effect.' 

"In  nothing  else  does  he  show  better 
his  skilful  handling  of  the  queer  con- 
tradictions of  woman  than  in  making 
his  wife  at  the  beginning  utterly  indif- 
ferent to  the  food  she  provides  for  the 
bread-winner  of  the  family,  reducing 
him  to  the  tender  mercies  of  the  deli- 
catessen dealer,  tackling  the  intricate 
problems  of  cooking  with  the  serene 
cocksureness  of  complete  ignorance,  and 
yet  strangely  capable  of  self-denial  and 
a  devoted,  conscientious  study  of  nutri- 
ment for  herself  and  daughter,  when  she 
discovers  that  both  complexion  and  fig- 
ure depend  on  it.  You  see  it  is  not  easy 
to  pigeonhole  a  woman.  The  instant  you 
have  her  comfortably  labeled  you  are  apt 
to  discover  that  she  has  unknown  re- 
sources from  which  to  draw  when  she 
wants  to.  If  genius  may  be  defined  as 
'an  infinite  capacity  for  taking  pains,' 
woman  may  be  defined  as  a  creature  with 
an  infinite  distaste  for  the  things  that 
are  vital  and  an  infinite  capacity  for 
carrying  on  afifairs  of  no  real  moment." 


Family  Needs 

What  does  the  Man  need? 

Toil  and  wage 
And  the   comfort  of   a  book. 

What  does  the  Wife  need? 

Work  and   rest, 
Flowers  in  a  garden  nook. 

What  does  the   Child  need? 

Field  for  play, 
And  the  wonders  of  a  brook. 

All  of  these,   God-made, 

Somewhere  wait. 
Wait  for  the  eyes  that  look. 

C.  A.  M.  D. 


PLANKED   SHAD,   SUPREME 

Seasonable  Recipes 

Bv  Janet  M.  Hill 


IN  all  recipes  where    flour  is  used,   unless  otherwise  stated,  the  flour  is  measured  after  sifting 
once.     Where  flour  is  measured    by  cups,  the  cup  is   filled  with  a  spoon,  and  a  level   cupful 
is   meant.     A   tablespoonful    or  a    teaspoonful    of  any  designated    material   is    a    level   spoonful. 


Halves   of   Eggs,    Stuffed    (hors- 
d'oeuvre) 

HA\'E  ready  hard-cooked  eggs, 
one  for  each  two  persons  to  be 
served.  Cut  the  eggs  in  halves, 
lengthwise,  remove  the  yolks  and  set 
aside  for  some  other  purpose.  Trim  the 
openings  left  by  the  removal  of  the  yolks 
to  an  oval  shape.  Have  ready  as  many 
tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  lobster  in  quar- 
ter-inch cubes  as  halves  of  eggs ;  mix  the 
bits  of  lobster  with  enough  aspic  may- 
onnaise to  hold  them  together  and  with 
this  fill  the  spaces  in  the  eggs,  rounding 
the  mixture  in  each  to  a  dome  shape. 
Set  each  half-egg  on  an  oval-shaped 
crouton  of  bread,  spread  with  aspic  may- 
onnaise, mixed  with  the  liver  of  the 
lobster;  sift  coral  of  the  lobster  or  hard- 
cooked  yolk  of  egg  over,  and  set  the  egg 


in  place  before  the  aspic  is  fully  set. 
Let  stand  in  a  cool  place  till  time  of 
serving.  Two  tiny,  crisp  leaves  of  let- 
tuce may  be  pushed  partly  beneath  the 
eggs  at  the  moment  of  serving.  Salmon, 
crab  flakes  or  shrimps  may  be  used  in 
place  of  the  lobster. 

Tomato  Soup 

Let  one  quart  of  broth,  one  quart  of 
stewed  tomatoes,  one  onion  with  four 
cloves  pressed  into  it,  three  sprigs  of 
parsley  and  a  stalk  of  celery,  if  con- 
venient, with  half  a  cup  of  oatmeal,  bar- 
ley or  rice  simmer  very  gently  about  an 
hour  and  a  half ;  strain,  add  about  a 
teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  salt  and  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  reheat  and  serve 
with  croutons  of  bread.  Water  with 
beef  extract  may  replace  the  broth. 


425 


426 


THE    BOSTON     COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


Croutons  of  Bread 

Butter  bread  cut  in  slices  one-fourth 
an  inch  thick,  trim  off  the  crusts  and  cut 


and  bones  being  required,  about  one 
pound  and  a  half  of  fish  must  be  pur- 
chased. Cooked  fish  will  not  do  for  this 
dish.     Scrape  the  flesh  from  the  fibres 


SALMON    MOUSSELIXE 


in  inch  or  half-inch  squares.    Let  brown 
in  the  oven.     Serve  hot. 

Poached  Egg- Yolks  for  Soup 

\\'hen  using  a  recipe  calling  for  whites 
of  eggs  only,  have  ready  a  saucepan  of 
salted  water  just  below  the  boiling  point ; 
turn  off  the  whites  into  the  bowl  ready 
for  them,  then  drop  the  yolks  from  the 
shell  into  the  water ;  let  stand  to  cook 
until  firm  throughout ;  drain  on  a  cloth 
and  trim  off  white  threads  if  present. 
Serve  one  in  each  plate  of  soup. 

Salmon  JNIousseline 

One  pound  of  salmon  freed  from  skin 


and  pound  it  well  with  a  pestle  (in  a 
wooden  bowl).  Add  one  teaspoonful 
and  a  half  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  paprika  and  the  raw  white  of  an  egg 
and  pound  again  until  perfectly  smooth ; 
add  a  second  white  of  egg  and  again 
pound  until  smooth,  then  strain  through 
a  fine  sieve  (a  gravy  strainer  set  in  part 
of  a  double  boiler).  Put  the  fish  into 
a  bowl,  set  into  another  bowl  containing 
ice  and  water  and  very  gradually  work 
into  it  one  pint  of  fresh,  sweet,  thick 
cream.  The  mixture  must  be  kept 
smooth,  and  to  this  end  the  cream  and 
fish  must  both  be  cold  and  the  combina- 
tion be  made  gradually.     Add  more  salt 


ASPARA(;rS,   MALTESE    SAUCE 


SEASONABLE    RECIPES 


427 


and  pepper  if  desired.  Turn  the  mix- 
ture into  a  mold  lined  with  tough,  white 
paper,  thoroughly  buttered;  let  bake  in 
a  pan  of  boiling  water  with  many  folds 
of  paper  beneath  the  mold.  The  water 
should  not  boil  during  the  process  of 
cooking.  The  dish  is  cooked  when  it 
feels  firm  to  the  touch.  Let  stand  to 
contract  a  few  minutes ;  run  a  thin  knife 
between  the  mold  and  mousseline,  at  the 
top,  turn  and  tip  until  the  mixture  sep- 
arates from  the  tin,  then  unmold  and 
pour  over  the  sauce.  Set  four  oysters. 
par-boiled  until  the  edges  curl,  or  four 
pieces  of  cooked  lobster  above  the  mous- 
seline and  about  a  cup  of  the  same  arti- 


lobster  meat,  cut  in  cubes,  or  of  poached 
oysters,  cut  in  halves.  Let  stand  over 
hot  water  two  or  three  minutes. 

Asparagus,   Maltese   Sauce 

Cook  the  asparagus,  tied  in  a  bunch,  in 
boiling  salted  water.  Lift  out  to  slices 
of  toast  (the  toast  may  be  omitted),  pour 
over  the  hot  sauce  and  serve  at  once. 
For  the  sauce  blood  oranges  are  usually 
selected.  Put  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful, 
each,  of  salt  and  paprika,  the  grated  rind 
of  half  an  orange,  a  tablespoonful  of 
water  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon 
juice  over  the  fire  to  reduce  one  half; 
add   half   a  cup  of   butter,  beaten  to   a 


EASTER    BREAKFAST    ROLLS 


cle  cut  in  halves  or   (lobster)    in  cubes 
in  the  sauce. 

Sauce  for  Mousseline  of  Salmon 

Melt  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter;  in 
it  cook  one-fourth  a  cup  of  flour,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one-fourth  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper;  add  two  cups  of 
water,  stir  and  cook  until  boiling,  then 
add,  a  small  piece  at  a  time,  without  boil- 
ing, one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter.  Finish 
with  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  mixed 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice  and 
stir  until  the  egg  is  set ;  add  one  cup  of 


cream,  and,  one  after  another,  the  yolks 
of  from  two  to  four  eggs ;  beat  each 
yolk  into  the  butter  thoroughly  before 
adding  another.  Set  the  dish  over  hot 
water  and  stir  constantly  while  the  mix- 
ture thickens,  then  add  the  juice  of  half 
a  blood  orange  and  stir  and  cook  a  mo- 
ment longer.  With  two  yolks  the  sauce 
should  be  as  thick  as  cream;  with  four 
yolks  as  thick  as  mayonnaise. 

Easter  Breakfast  Rolls 

Break  one  cake  of  compressed  yeast 
into   one-fourth   a    cup   of    scalded-and- 


428 


THE    nOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


cooled  milk ;  mix  thoroughly,  then  add 
to  a  cup  of  scalded  milk,  cooled  to  a 
lukewarm  temperature.  Stir  in  nearly 
two  cups  of  sifted  flour,  then  beat  till 
very  smooth;  cover  and  set  aside  until 
very  light.  Add  one  or  two  yolks  of 
eggs,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a 
tablespoonful  of  sugar,  one-fourth  a  cup 
of  melted  butter  and  just  enough  flour 
to  make  a  dough  that  may  be  kneaded. 
Knead  until  very  smooth  and  elastic. 
Cover  and  set  aside  to  become  light  (dou- 
bled in  bulk).  Shape  in  balls,  cover 
close  on  a  board  to  become  light.  Take 
a  ball  in  the  hand,  press  down  into  the 


liquid  evaporate  towards  the  last  of  the 
cooking.  Skim  out  the  prunes  and  set 
aside  to  become  cold.  With  a  sharp- 
pointed  knife  cut  the  flesh  from  the 
stones  to  make  six  or  more  lengthwise 
slices.  Cut  pecan-nut  meats  into  three 
lengthwise  pieces.  Over  half  a  pound  of 
prunes  and  one-fourth  a  pound  of  nut 
meats,  prepared  as  above,  sprinkle  half 
a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt  and  paprika. 
Beat  three-fourths  a  cup  of  double 
cream,  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful,  each, 
of  salt  and  paprika,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  lemon  juice  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
sherry    wine,    until    firm    throughout    (a 


PRUNE-AND-PECAN    NUT   SALAD 


under  side  to  make  an  open  space  close 
to  the  smooth  and  rounding  side  of  the 
roll.  Into  this  set  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
rather  firm  fruit  jelly — crab-apple  or  the 
like ;  work  the  dough  over  the  opening 
to  enclose  the  jelly  securely  and  have  it 
just  under  the  top  crust.  Shape  the  roll 
under  the  hand  on  a  board  like  an  tgg, 
one  end  round  and  the  other  pointed. 
Set  these  in  a  baking  pan  some  distance 
apart.  Let  bake  about  twenty  minutes. 
Brush  over  with  the  beaten  white  of  an 
egg  and  return  to  the  oven  to  set  the 
glaze. 

Prune-and-Pecan  Nut   Salad 

Cook  the  prunes  as  usual  but  let  the 


third  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice  may 
replace  the  sherry).  Reserve  a  few 
pieces  of  prunes  and  nuts  for  a  garnish. 
Mix  the  seasonings  through  the  rest  of 
the  prunes  and  nuts,  then  fold  in  about 
two-thirds  of  the  cream  mixture.  Turn 
the  mixture  upon  a  bed  of  heart  leaves 
of  lettuce ;  pipe  the  rest  of  the  dressing 
above  and  decorate  it  with  the  bits  of 
prune  and  nut  meats  reserved  for  the 
purpose.  This  salad  may  be  served  in- 
dividually. Great  care  should  be  taken 
to  keep  the  pieces  of  prune  in  good 
shape;  the  prunes  should  be  cooked  only 
just  enough  to  allow  of  the  removal  of 
the  stones,  not  as  much  as  when  they  are 
to  be  served  whole. 


SEASONABLE    RECIPES 


429 


PEACHES,    MANHATTAN  STYLE 


Peaches,  Manhattan  Style 

Cut  rounds  nearly  an  inch  thick  from 
slices  of  stale  sponge  or  butter  cake.  Set 
these  on  a  serving  dish  or  on  individual 
dishes.  Put  half  a  canned  peach  on  each 
round  of  cake,  hollow  side  up;  put  half 
a  blanched  almond  or  a  cherry  in  each 
peach.  Reduce  the  syrup  with  a  little 
sugar  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon 
somewhat,  then  set  aside  until  cold. 
When  ready  to  serve  pour  the  syrup  over 
the  peaches  and  cake. 

Sponge  Cake  with   Potato  Flour 

Beat  the  whites  of  five  eggs  dry  and 
the  yolks  until  thick  and  light  colored. 
Beat  one  cup  of  granulated  sugar  into 
the  yolks ;  add  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
orange  extract  and  the  beaten  whites,  cut 
and  fold  together,  then  add  half  a  cup 
of  potato  flour  and  half  a  level  teaspoon- 
ful  of  baking  powder ;  fold  in  the  flour. 
Bake  in  a  tube  pan  about  fifty  minutes. 
If  the  eggs  are  beaten  properly  and  the 
ingredients  folded  together  wnth  care,  the 
baking  powder  is  superfluous. 

Cocoanut  Cake  with  Lilac  Decora- 
tion 

Cream  half  a  cup  of  butter ;  gradually 
beat  in  one  cup  of  granulated  sugar,  then 


beat  in,  one  after  another  without  previ- 
ous beating,  three  whole  eggs.  Add  al- 
ternately half  a  cup  of  milk  and  one  cup 
and  three-fourths  of  sifted  flour,  sifted 
again  with  two  slightly  rounding  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  baking  powder.  Lastly, 
beat  in  one  cup  of  grated  cocoanut. 
Bake  in  a  tube  pan  about  forty-five  min- 
utes. Cover  with  confectioner's  frosting 
and  decorate  with  candied  lilacs,  put  on 
to  represent  lilac  blossoms  with  strips  of 
anjelica  for  stems;  or  cover  with  boiled 
frosting,  sprinkle  with  candied  lilac  pet- 
als and  finish  with  boiled  frosting,  put 
on  with  bag  and  tube. 


SPONGE   CAKE   WITH    POTATO    FLOUR 


430 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


Confectioner's  Frosting 

Boil  one-third  a  cup  of  granulated  su- 
gar and  one-third  a  cup  of  boiling  water 
three  or  four  minutes ;  add  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  lemon  juice  and  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  orange  or  vanilla  extract,  then  stir  in 
sifted  confectioner's  sugar  until  thick 
enough  to  spread. 

Boiled  Frosting 

Boil  one  cup  of  granulated  sugar  and 
one-fourth  a  cup  of  boiling  water  to 
238° F.      Pour   in   a   fine   stream  on   the 


and  a  candied  or  a  maraschino  cherry. 
Before  putting  cream  between  the  rounds 
of  cake,  a  tablespoonful  of  liquid  from 
the  cherry  bottle  or  the  can  of  fruit  may 
be  poured  over  each  round.  For  the 
cream  use  one  cup  of  double  cream,  half 
a  cup  of  cream  from  the  top  of  the  milk 
bottle,  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract 
and  a  scant  fourth  a  cup  of  sugar.  This 
quantity  of  cream  will  serve  eight. 

Simple  Charlotte  Russe.     II 

Line  paper  cases  or  glass  or  china  cups 
with  very  narrow  strips  of  cake.     Pieces 


COCOANUT   CAKE    DECORATED    WITH    CANDIED  LILAC    FROSTING 


beaten  whites  of  two  eggs,  beating  con- 
stantly meanwhile ;  spread  part  of  this 
over  the  cake  to  cover  completely.  Re- 
turn the  rest  to  the  saucepan  in  which 
the  sugar  was  cooked  and  stir  and  cook 
over  hot  water  until  the  frosting  will  hold 
its  shape. 

Simple  Charlotte  Russe.     I 

Cut  sponge  or  other  cake  in  slices  and 
the  slices  in  rounds ;  put  the  rounds 
together  with  sweetened-and-flavored 
cream,  beaten  firm.  Pipe  the  cream  on 
the  top  layer,  decorate  with  slices  of 
preserved  or  canned  peaches  or  apricots, 


half  the  length  and  half  the  width  of  a 
lady-finger  will  be  about  right.  Fill  with 
cream  prepared  as  above.  Use  a  pastry 
bag  and  tube  to  set  the  cream  in  place. 
Decorate  with  bits  of  fruit  jelly  or 
canned  or  preserved  fruit. 

Fig  Parfait 

Whip  one  cup  of  heavy  cream  and  half 
a  cup  of  cream  from  the  top  of  a  quart 
bottle  of  milk  until  firm  throughout.  Cut 
fine  enough  cooked  figs  to  fill  one  cup ; 
add  one-fourth  a  cup  of  the  fig  juice  and 
two-thirds  a  cup  of  sugar  and  let  sim- 
mer until  the  sugar  is  dissolved  and  the 


SEASONABLE    RECIPES 


431 


mixture  reduced  a  little;  add  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon  and  either  one-fourth  a 
cup  of  sherry  wine,  fruit  juice  (as 
orange,  pineapple,  etc.)  or  juice  from  the 
figs.  Let  stand  until  thoroughly  chilled, 
then  fold  the  cream  into  it  and  turn  the 
mixture  into  a  quart  mold,  lined  with 
paper  and  chilled  in  salt  and  crushed  ice. 
Fill  the  mold  to  overflow,  spread  over  a 
paper  and  press  the  cover  down  over  the 
paper.  Pack  in  equal  measures  of  salt 
and  crushed  ice.  Let  stand  about  three 
hours.  Repack  when  the  ice  has  par- 
tially melted.  W^hen  repacking  turn  the 
mold  as  the  lower  side  often  freezes 
more  quickly  than  the  upper  side.  \\^hen 
unmolded  garnish  with  half  a  cup  of 
whipped  cream  and  slices  of  cooked  fig. 

Baked  Tomatoes,  Luncheon  Style 

Have  ready  a  quart  of  canned  toma- 
toes, one  cup  of  fine  stale  bread  crumbs 
and  one  cup  of  chopped  pecan-nut  meats. 
Stir  one- fourth  a  cup  of  melted  butter 
through  the  bread  crumbs.  Put  a  layer 
of  tomatoes  in  an  au  gratin  dish,  sprinkle 
lightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  with 
the  buttered  crumbs  and  the  chopped 
nuts.  Continue  the  layers  until  all  are 
used,  having  the  last  layer  of  nuts  and 
then  crumbs.  Let  cook  about  twenty 
minutes. 


COCOAXUT  CAKE,  CAXDIED  LILAC 
DECORATIOX 


Poached  Eggs,  Pimento-and- 
Tomato  Sauce 

Cook  half  a  can  of  tomatoes,  a  slice  or 
two  of  onion,  a  bit  of  ham  if  convenient, 
two  sprigs  of  parsley  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  about  ten  minutes,  strain 
and  use  in  making  a  cup  and  a  half  of 
tomato  sauce.  Reheat  four  canned  pi- 
mentos in  boiling  water,  then  drain  and 
cut  each  into  julienne  strips.  Have  eight 
carefully  poached  eggs  and  eight  slices 
of  toast.  Sprinkle  the  strips  of  pimento 
over  the  toast ;  set  a  poached  e:gg  on  each 
slice  and  pour  the  sauce  over  the  whole; 
half  a  cup  of  canned  mushrooms,  cut  in 
slices,  may  be  added  to  the  sauce,  two 
or  three  minutes   before  serving. 

Poached  Eggs 

Xone  but  fresh  eggs  can  be  poached 
successfully  and  with  these  tin  or  other 


SIMPLE   CHARLOTTE    RUSSE    I    AND    II 


43. 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


contrivances  for  preserving  the  shape  of 
the  egg  are  unnecessar}-.  A  fresh  egg 
broken  carefully  into  a  frying  pan  of 
water  just  below  the  boiling  point  will 
not  spread  over  much  surface  and  will 
retain  much  of  the  oval  shape  that  it  had 
in  the  shell.  Salt  (a.  tablespoon ful  to  a 
quart )  should  be  added  to  the  water  be- 
fore the  eggs  are  broken  into  it.  A  fry- 
ing pan  (or  other  dish)  used  for  this 
purpose  should  stand  level  upon  the 
stove;  on  this  account  a  heavy  iron  pan 
is  recommended.  After  the  eggs  have 
become  firm  and  set  upon  the  bottom, 
run  a  spatula  under  each  ver}^  carefully 
to  separate  it  from  the  pan.  then  let  cook 
undisturbed  until  the  yolks  are  somewhat 
firm.  The  water  should  not  boil  during 
the  cooking. 


teaspoonful  of  pepper  to  a  quart  of  meat.) 
Mix  all  together  thoroughly,  then  shape 
into  flat  cakes  as  thick  at  the  edge  as  in 
the  center.  Pan  broil  in  a  hot  iron  fry- 
ing pan  or  broil  directly  over  the  coals. 
Do  not  overcook  and  the  steak  will  be 
rich  and  juicy  throughout. 

Planked  Shad,   Supreme 

Split  a  shad  weighing  about  three 
pounds,  from  which  the  head  and  tail 
have  been  taken.  Oil  a  plank  and  upon 
it  fasten  the  fish,  skin  side  down.  Let 
cook  in  the  oven  of  a  gas  range  about 
twenty  minutes,  basting  often  with  a  lit- 
tle melted  butter.  Lacking  a  gas  oven 
the  fish  may  be  broiled  over  coals.  Cook 
principally  on  the  flesh  side.  Remove 
some   distance   from  the  coals  after  the 


FIG   PARFAIT 


Hamburg  Steak  (new  recipe) 
M.  E.  F. 

Put  through  a  food  chopper  the  meat 
to  be  used.  Have  ready  some  pieces  of 
fat  from  boiled  or  roasted  beef.  Return 
the  chopped  meat  to  the  chopper  with 
the  fat  meat  and  press  through  a  second 
time.  Add  salt  and  pepper  as  needed, 
(about  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  half  a 


first  three  or  four  minutes  of  cooking. 
When  the  fish  has  been  cooked  twenty 
minutes  pipe  hot  mashed  potato  around 
the  edge  of  the  plank,  brush  the  edges 
of  the  potato  with  the  beaten  yolk  of  an 
egg.  mixed  with  a  tablespoonful  of  milk, 
and  set  the  plank  under  the  gas  flame  or 
in  a  hot  oven  to  brown  the  edges  of  the 
potato  and  finish  cooking  the  fish.  Sprin- 
kle  the   fish    with    salt   and   pepper,   dot 


SEASONABLE    RECIPES 


433 


with  bits  of  butter.  Set  little  bunches 
of  cooked  asparagus  (one  for  each  per- 
son to  be  served)  on  the  fish  close  to 
the  potato.  Down  the  center  of  the  fish 
dispose  pimentos  filled  with  creamed  roe 
and  set  mushrooms,  Algonquin  style, 
above.  Serv^e  Hollandaise  sauce  in  a 
bowl. 

Creamed  Roe  in  Pimentos 

Cover  the  roe  with  water  just  below 
the  boiling  point;  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  and  two 
slices  of  onion  and  let  simmer  very  gen- 
tly for  twenty  minutes.  Remove  from 
liquid  and  cut  in  tiny  cubes.  ]Make  a 
cream  sauce,  allowing  a  scant  cup  of 
sauce  for  a  heaping  cup  of  cubes,  and 
using  part  cream  as  the  liquid.  Season 
as  needed  with  salt  and  pepper;  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice  and  the  cubes. 
The  mixture  should  be  quite  consistent. 
Use  to  fill  the  pimentos.  Trim  the  edges 
of  the  pimentos  if  necessary. 

Mushrooms,  Algonquin  Style 
Take  as  many  fresh  mushrooms  (cam- 


pestris)  as  people  to  be  served.  Remove 
the  stems  and  peel  the  caps;  dry  these, 
trimmings  and  store  for  future  use. 
Melt  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  fry- 
ing pan  and  in  it  cook  the  mushroom 
caps  two  or  three  minutes.  Set  them, 
gill  side  up,  in  a  little  agate  dish,  put 
an  oyster  in  each,  sprinkle  lightly  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  dot  each  with  a  bit 
of  butter.  Set  into  a  hot  oven  until  the 
oysters  look  plump  and  the  edges  are 
curled,  then  set  above  the  roe  in  the 
pimentos.  The  oysters  should  go  into 
the  oven  when  the  fish  is  set  in  to  brown 
the  edges  of  the  potato. 

Hollandaise  Sauce 

Beat  half  a  cup  of  butter  to  a  cream; 
add  from  two  to  four  yolks  of  eggs,  one 
after  another,  beating  each  thoroughly 
into  the  butter;  add  one-fourth  a  tea- 
spoonful, each,  of  salt  and  paprika  and 
half  a  cup  of  boiling  water  and  stir  and 
cook  over  hot  water  until  the  sauce 
thickens;  add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon 
and  stir  vigorously.  Too  long  cooking 
will  cause  the  sauce  to  curdle. 


Cucumber  Boats 

By  Kimberly  Strickland 


Take  small  cucumbers  for  your  fleet, 
And  treat  each  one  the  self-same  way, 

Cut  lengthwise  slice  from  lower  side, 
Forming    a    keel    that    straight    will    stay. 

Then   hollow   out   the   upper   side 

To  make  a  little  oval  boat, 
And  set  each   on  a   sep'rate  plate, 

As  if  it  ready  were  to  float. 

Fill  in  as  cargo  shredded  pine 

(Fragrant,    and   sweet   beyond   all   praise); 
Diced  cucumbers,  and  walnut  meats, 

All    closely    bound    with    mayonnaise. 

N'ow   launch  your   fleet,    and   rest  assured 
The  venture  will  successful  be. 

How  good  it  were  could  such  a   fate 
Bless   all  the   ships  you   send   to   sea ! 


Menus  for  a  Week  in  April 

"Proper  care  for  pure  water,  pure  milk,  and  pure  air  zvould  increase  the  average  span 
of  life  in  the   United  States  by  eight  years."  Irving  Fisher. 


Breakfast 

Breakfast 

Easter  Rolls 

Barley   Crystals,    Thin    Cream 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dried  Beef,   Creamed 

Dinner 

Small  Potatoes,  Baked 

Tomato  Soup 

Corn  Meal  Muffins 

>H 

Stuffed    Capon,    Roasted 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

< 

Rhubarb   Baked    with    Raisins 

Dinner 

Q 

Scalloped    Potatoes 

Tomato   Soup 

Asparagus,   Maltese   Sauce 

Fillets    of    Haddock,    Fried 

Cheese    Balls,    Fried 

Stewed  Tomatoes.     Mashed  Potatoes 

Lettuce.     Toasted    Crackers 

Peaches,    Manhattan    Style 

Half    Cups    of    Coffee 

Half   Cups  of  Coffee 

Supper 

Supper 

Fresh  Mushrooms,  Creamed  or  Newburgh 

Cold   Boiled    Ham,    Sliced    Thin 

Plain    Yeast    Rolls    (reheated) 

Potato  Salad 

Cocoanut   Cake.     Tea   with   Lime    Drops 

Stewed  Peaches            Cookies.     Cocoa 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Broiled    Bacon 

Baked   Potato   Cakes 

Rice   Griddle   Cakes,   Maple    Syrup 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Emergency    Soup 

Capon  Souffle,  Tomato   Sauce 

Buttered    Parsnips 

Baked    Tapioca    Pudding,    Vanilla    Sauce 

Half   Cups  of   Coffee 

Supper 

Cheese    Pudding 

Stewed    Prunes  Bread  and  Butter 

Gingerbread.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Cereal,  Thin  Cream 

Hot  Ham   Sandwiches.     Parsnip  Fritters 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Veal  Pot  Pie,  Baked  Dumplings 

Lettuce    or    Cabbage    Salad 

Stewed    Figs,   Wine   or   Fruit  Jelly, 

Whipped    Cream 

Half   Cups   of   Coffee 

Supper 

Mexican    Rabbit 

Cream  Toast  for  Children 

Sliced    Pineapple 

Graham  Wafers.     Tea 


Breakfast 

Breakfast 

Broiled   Honey   Comb   Tripe 

Hot   Dates,   Cereal,  Thin   Cream 

Small  Potatoes  Baked 

Hashed    Veal   on   Toast 

Fried    Mush,    Maple    Syrup 

Eggs  Cooked  in   Shell           Coffee.     Cocoa 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

> 

< 

Shad,   Stuffed  and   Baked 

Dinner 

Drawn    Butter    Sauce 

Q 

Broiled    Hamburg    Steak 

Mashed  Potatoes 

CO 

W 

Potatoes    Hashed    in    Milk 

Beets    Stuffed    with    Cabbage    Salad 

Baked  Tomatoes  with   Nuts 

Rhubarb    Pie 

Supper 

Half  Cups  of   Coffee 

Poached    Eggs    with    Pimentos    and 

Tomato  Sauce 

Supper 

Graham    Muffins 

Egg  Timbales,  Bread   Sauce 

Dried    Peaches.    Stewed.     Tea 

Canned    Fruit 

Rhubarb  Jelly  Sponge    Cake    Potato    Flour 

Cookies.     Tea 

Half   Cups   of   Coffee 

Breakfast 

Grapefruit 

Cereal,    Thin    Cream 

Sausages.     Baked    Bananas 

White    Hashed    Potatoes 

Boston    Brown    Bread,    Toasted 

Coffee 


Dinner 

Cream  of  Spinach  Soup 

Scalloped  Oysters 

Cold   Slaw 

Baking    Powder   Biscuit 

Pineapple    Bavariose 

Half   Cups   of   Coffee 

434 


Supper 

Smoked  Beef 

Baked    Potatoes,    Butter 

Waffles.   Maple    Syrup 

Tea 


Menus  for  Simple  Luncheons  and  Dinners 


^     A*     A* 


*  Luncheon   I 

Halves   of   Grapefruit 

Lobster   Cutlets,    Sauce    Tartare 

Egg  Timbales,   Bread   Sauce 

Grilled  Beef  Tenderloin,  Saratoga  Potatoes 

Asparagus,    Maltese    Sauce 

Lemon    Sherbet 

Macaroons 

Coffee 


II 

Strawberries 

Chicken  and  Clam  Broth  with  Cream 

Brook   Trout,   Fried 

Cucumber  Salad 

Broiled   Squabs   on  Toast 

Sweet   Potatoes,   Grilled 

Coupe  Venus 

Coffee 


III 

Pineapple  Cocktail 

Oyster   Soup 

Chicken    Croquettes,    Peas 

Cream    Cheese-and-Pimento    Salad 

Sponge   Cake 

Cocoa    with    Whipped    Cream 


Dinner   I 

Caviare    Medallions 

Consomme   Julienne 

Lobster    Newburgh 

Glazed  Sweet  Breads,  Touraine  Style 

Loin   of   Lamb,  Roasted,   Mint   Sauce 

Potato    Croquettes 

.    Asparagus,    Maltese    Sauce 

Grape  Juice    Bombe   Glace 

Angel  Cake 

Coffee 


II 

Fresh  Mushroom  Cocktail 

Consomme  with  Noodles 

Shad-Roe    Croquettes,    Sauce   Tartare 

Cucumbers  with  Chives,  French  Dressing 

Braised    Sweetbreads    in    Macaroni    Nests 

Larded   Fillet   of    Beef,    Roasted 

Scalloped    Potatoes 

Asparagus,    Hollandaise    Sauce 

Orange  Sherbet 

Lady  Fingers 

Coffee 


III 

Consomme   with   Asparagus   Tips 

Salmon    Mousse,    Egg   Sauce 

Cucumber    Salad 

Fresh  Mushrooms,  Algonquin   Style 

Squabs,  Roasted 

Cress-and-Orange    Salad 

Fig   Parfait 

Potato-Flour   Sponge  Cake 

Coffee 


IV    (of  3  Courses) 

Boiled  Salmon,  Egg  Sauce 

Boiled    Potato    Balls    with    Parsley 

Cucumber  Salad 

Guinea  Hen,  Roasted 

Rice    Croquettes    with    Jelly 

Cold   Asparagus,    French   Dressing 

Pineapple   Sherbet 

Macaroons 

Coffee 


435 


Entrees:  Their  Character  and  Time  of  Service 

Bv  Janet  M.  Hill 


IX  a  consideration  of  the  subject  of 
entrees,  the  first  question  to  be 
asked  is,  what  is  an  entree  ?  There 
are  certain  characteristics  that  pertain 
to  an  entree,  and  these  we  will  consider 
later  on;  but  first  of  all  we  need  to 
know  something  of  the  composition  of  a 
menu,  or  bill  of  fare,  in  which  an  entree 
would  be  presented. 

A  proper  menu  is  not  a  haphazard 
collection  of  articles  of  food.  In  select- 
ing the  various  dishes  that  are  to  be 
combined  in  a  dinner,  especially  in  a 
dinner  of  ceremony,  aesthetical  as  well 
as  physiological  conditions  are  to  be 
kept  in  mind ;  also  variety  in  the  articles 
of  food  and  in  the  shape,  color,  texture 
and  flavor  of  the  dishes  is  sought  for ; 
and  at  the  same  time  the  dishes  as  a 
whole  advance  in  importance  from  the 
simple  appetizers  to  the  grand  climax 
of  the  roast,  and  then  they  gradually 
decline  to  the  clear  black  cof¥ee,  which 
is  the  fitting  close  of  the  meal. 

Thudichum  says,  "the  menus  of  our 
forefathers  (English)  consisted  of  three 
courses:  soup  and  fish,  the  first;  entrees 
and  joints,  the  second;  game  and  sweets, 
the  third;  cheese  and  dessert  (fruit,  nuts, 
etc.)  were  called  by  some  a  fourth 
course,  and  by  some  simply  an  appendix 
to  the  third."  To-day  this  cannot  be 
considered  a  logical  grouping  of  these 
eight  varieties  of  dishes.  At  the  period 
of  the  renaissance  each  dish  was  served 
by  itself  and  considered  a  course ;   and 


there  were  from  twelve  to  sixty  dishes, 
or  courses,  in  a  dinner.  Here  we  have  the 
other  extreme,  and  the  term  ''courses" 
has  no  real  meaning.  A  glance  at  the 
style  of  table  service  at  the  time  of  our 
forefathers  gives  us  the  key  to  their 
division  into  three  courses.  Food  was 
served  from  the  table.  While  the  soup 
was  being  eaten  there  was  a  joint  of 
meat  or  fish  at  the  head  of  the  table, 
another  at  the  foot  of  the  table,  and 
usually  one  or  more  at  each  side.  All 
these  constituted  the  first  "course." 
Thus  the  term  ''course,"  then,  was  in 
conformity  to  our  idea  of  the  term  as 
used  in  the  present  day:  that  is,  in  the 
term  "course,"  as  applied  to  a  dinner 
menu,  are  included  all  the  dishes  that 
appear  upon  the  table  together.  But  in 
the  service  of  to-day  nothing  appears 
upon  the  table  except  such  things  as 
belong  to  the  course  being  served.  \\'ith 
soup — croutons,  bread  sticks,  etc..  ex- 
cepted— nothing  would  appear  on  the 
table  save  such  relishes  as  celery, 
radishes,  olives  and  salted  nuts,  which 
may  be  eaten  with  any  course  up  to  the 
sweets. 

While  the  number  of  dishes  in  a 
course  has  been  much  cut  down,  and 
other  changes  that  tend  to  the  simplifica- 
tion of  menus  are  coming  into  vogue,  the 
general  make  up  of  menus,  to-day,  is 
much  the  same  as  it  was  two  hundred 
years  ago.  Soup  follows  the  hors  d'- 
oeuvres,    then    comes    the   course    called 


436 


ENTRIES 


437 


remove  in  English,  releve  in  French, 
from  the  fact  that  it  removes  the  soup 
from  the  table.  Formerly,  this  course 
comprised  fish  of  several  kinds,  usually- 
whole  or  in  a  large  section,  boiled  or 
baked  or  both ;  the  ''houilli"  or  beef  from 
which  the  soup  (pot-au-feu)  was  made, 
a  boiled  chicken  or  turkey;  lamb  or 
mutton,  ribs  or  fillet  of  beef,  roasted; 
potatoes,  etc.  This  course  is  followed 
by  several  dishes,  usually  in  individual 
portions  (but  never  such  as  call  for 
much  carving),  made  of  choice  materials 
and  accompanied  by  fine  sauces ;  'each 
dish  is  served  in  a  course  by  itself. 
These  are  entrees. 

Formerly,  in  a  fine  dinner  an  entree 
of  fish,  one  of  chicken,  one  of  beef,  one 
of  vegetables,  one  including  pastry  and 
one  including  truffles,  served  in  the 
order  of  their  delicacy,  were  thought  to 
be  essential.  Of  course  the  truffles  and 
the  pastry  were  often  combined  with  the 
fish  or  the  chicken.  After  entrees  comes 
the  course  called  rots  in  French,  roast 
in  EngUsh.  This  dish  is  of  game  or  fowl 
or  ham,  and  is  usually  accompanied  by 
a  salad.  Pate-de-foie-gras  in  aspic  or  a 
choice  vegetable  (as  asparagus  or  cauli- 
flower) with  a  rich  sauce  follows  the 
roast.  With  these  or  other  entrees  ends 
the  first  ''service."  The  second  service, 
"sweets,"  includes  Charlotte  Russe,  wine 
jellies,  light  pastry,  souffles,  ices,  fruit 
nuts,  bonbons  (sometimes  cheese  and 
crackers)  and  coffee.  These  are  usually 
served  in  two  courses  (three,  coffee, 
being  considered  a  course),  if  a  hot  dish 
be  included  in  the  list. 

The  menu  then  stands  to-day  as  so 
long  ago: 

HoRS  d'oeuvre 

Soup 

Remove 

Entrees 

Roast 

Entrees 

Sweets 

Coffee 

But  the  high   cost   of   food   products 


and,  also,  of  service  have  materially 
changed  the  dishes  presented  in  the 
courses  of  a  dinner,  and  have  brought 
entrees  into  more  prominence.  Whereas 
formerly,  entrees  appeared  only  after,  or 
in  conjunction  with,  the  two  main 
courses  of  the  dinner,  they  now  often 
supplant  one  or  the  other  of  these 
courses  and  sometimes,  even  in  formal 
luncheons,  replace  them  both.  In  a 
dinner  of  considerable  pretension  an 
entree  of  fish  is  not  infrequently  the  sole 
representative  of  the  course  called  ''re- 
move." 

Now  we  are  ready  to  notice  some- 
thing of  the  characteristics  of  an  entree,, 
and  in  the  modern  menu  these  character- 
istics are  somewhat  changed.  Up  tO' 
within  the  last  ten  years — perhaps  even 
a  shorter  time,  an  entree  or  side  dish  was 
thought  of  principally  as  a  dish  served 
between  or  in  conjunction  with  the  main 
courses  of  the  dinner,  but  now  that  an 
entree  may  supplant  these  main  courses 
this  definition  is  less  complete  than  form- 
erly. 

Escoffier  considers  that  the  classifica- 
tion of  a  dish  as  an  entree  depends- 
largely  on  the  question  of  bulk,  and  that 
the  mode  of  preparation,  which  is 
usually,  in  case  o^  solid  meat,  grilling,, 
poaching  or  sauteing,  is  entirely  owing 
to  this  fact  of  lack  of  bulk;  as,  for 
instance,  a  whole  fillet  of  beef,  or  a 
comparatively  large  piece  from  a  fillet, 
could  be  roasted  or  braised  without: 
broth  (basted  with  butter)  and  served  as- 
a  remove  or  roast;  while  the  same  fillet^ 
cut  in  slices  for  individual  service,  must 
be  grilled  or  sauted  and  served  as  an 
entree.  Be  this  as  it  may,  with  but  few 
exceptions  entrees  are  cooked  by  other 
modes  than  roasting. 

Lack  of  bulk,  then,  is  one  of  the 
principal  characteristics  of  an  entree, 
and  while  the  manner  of  cooking  has  a 
bearing  on  the  subject  it  does  not  form 
a  fine  of  dermarcation.  A  roasted  capon 
would  not  be  an  entree,  while  roasted 
birds    might    serve   as    either    roast    or 


438 


THE    BOSTOX    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


entree,  according  to  the  place  allotted 
them  in  the  menu  and  the  dishes  served 
before  and  after. 

Skilful  cooking  is  expected  in  an 
entree,  not  only  in  the  sauce — for  most 
entrees  are  accompanied  by  a  sauce — 
but  also  in  the  body  of  the  dish  itself. 
Being  served  alone  it  challenges  the  at- 
tention and  any  lack  of  seasoning  or 
flavoring,  or  any  remissness  in  timing  the 
-cooking  so  that  succulence  is  lost,  is  ap- 
parent at  once  and  is  a  bid  for  disap- 
proval. 

The  greater  number  of  entrees  are 
prepared  from  proteid  substances,  as 
eggs,,  fish  of  all  kinds,  fowl,  lamb,  veal, 


game  and  choice  portions  of  beef,  but 
choice  fresh  vegetables  as  mushrooms, 
cauliflower,  tomatoes  and  asparagus,  and 
some  fruits — notably  in  fritters — are 
also  used. 

When  two  entrees  are  served,  one  im- 
mediately after  the  other,  the  most  deli- 
cate should  be  served  first ;  if  one  con- 
sists of  solid  pieces  of  meat  or  fish,  the 
basis  of  the  other  should  be  in  the  form 
of  a  puree  or  chopped  ingredient.  If 
one  is  grilled,  the  other  should  be  fried 
or  poached ;  nor  should  the  same  sauce 
appear  twice :  variety  in  all  details  should 
be   sought. 


Lessons  in  Elementary  Cooking 

By  Mary  Chandler  Jones 

Teacher  of   Cooker}^  in  the   Public    Schools    of  Brookline,   Mass. 
LESSON  IX. 


Fish 

(Continued) 

STUDY  the  structure  of  a  whole 
fish,  noticing  the  relative  position 
of  back-bone  and  ribs.  In  what 
position  does  the  fish  swim?  How  does 
the  fish  breathe?  Where  are  the  gills? 
What  must  be  their  color  in  a  fresh 
fish? 

In  our  last  lesson  we  spoke  of  wishing 
to  retain  the  juices  in  the  fish  and  of 
baking  as  being  a  method  by  which  this 
might  be  accomplished.  What  kind  of 
heat  must  the  fish  have  when  it  is  first 
put  into  the  oven?  Why  should  the 
temperature  be  lowered  after  a  little? 

Baked  Fish 

Wipe  carefully  a  whole  fish  or  a  por- 
tion from  the  middle  of  a  large  fish. 
Weigh,  after  cleaning  thoroughly.  Cut 
gashes  across  the  back-bone,  about  two 
inches  apart,  and  lay  in  these  narrow 
strips   of   fat   salt  pork.      Stuff  the   fish 


and  sew  or  tie  the  edges  together.  Place 
it  on  a  rack  in  a  dripping  pan  and  dredge 
with  flour.  Bake  fifteen  minutes  for 
each  pound  and  ten  minutes  extra,  to 
allow  for  heating  through.  Baste  every 
ten  minutes  with  some  of  the  fat  which 
has  tried  out  of  the  pork.  Serve  with 
tgg  or  tomato  sauce. 

Stuffing  for   the   Fish 

1  cup  of  bread  or  cracker  crumbs,  or  part  of 
each 
1  teaspoonful  of  salt 
I  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper 
3  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  melted 
Milk  or  butter  to  moisten 

Mix  in  the  order  given.  Chopped 
onion  or  other  seasoning  may  be  added 
as  desired. 

What  is  meant  by  "basting"  ?  \Miy  is 
it  necessary?  Why  is  pork  added  in  the 
case  of  the  fish  and  not  in  the  case  of 
meat  ?  W^hat  is  the  use  of  the  flour  with 
which  the  fish  is  dredged  ? 

Another  wav  in  which  the  fish  ma\-  be 


LESSONS    IX    ELEMENTARY    COOKLXG 


439 


cooked  with  retention  of  the  juices  is  by 
broiUng.  Here  the  fire  of  coals  must  be 
bright  and  free  from  gas  or  smoke,  as 
the  heat  comes  directly  in  contact  with 
the  surface  of  the  fish,  conveyed  by  the 
air.  Fish  may  also  be  sauted  (cooked  in 
a  pan  with  a  little  fat).  In  this  case  the 
heat  is  conveyed  by  the  heated  iron  of  the 
pan. 

Broiled  Fish 

Wipe  the  tish  as  usual.  Rub  the  wires 
of  the  broiler  with  a  bit  of  pork  that  the 
fish  may  not  stick  to  them.  Cook  over 
a  bright,  quick  fire,  turning  the  fish  every 
ten  counts.  Cook  first  on  the  flesh  side 
as  the  skin  burns  very  easily.  When  the 
fish  is  brown  outside  and  white  and  flaky 
within,  serve  very  hot. 

Sauted  Fish 

Sprinkle  the  fish  with  salt  and  pepper, 
after  wiping  it.  Cover  with  fine-rolled 
cracker  crumbs  or  with  alternate  layers 
of  egg  and  cracker  crumbs.  Cook  in  a 
saucepan,  with  a  little  fat  salt  pork,  until 
the  fish  is  golden  brown  and  tender. 

\\'hat  is  the  diflFerence  between  saute- 
ing  and  real  frying?  What  is  the  pur- 
pose of  the  coating  of  egg  and  crumbs? 
Which  is  better,  raw  flour  and  corn-meal 
or  fine  cracker  crumbs?  Why?  Is  this 
(sauteing)  a  very  digestible  way  of  pre- 
paring fish? 

When  all  the  juices  of  the  fish  are 
wanted  in  a  broth  or  soup,  we  begin  by 
placing  the  fish  in  cold  water.  Clams  and 
oysters  are  most  often  used  for  broths. 
Great  care  must  be  taken  in  their  choice 
and  preparation.  Oysters  that  may  have 
been  exposed  to  sewage  contamination 
are.  of  course,  unsafe  without  very 
thorough  cooking.  Compare  an  oyster 
before  and  after  cooking.  Notice  the 
changes  that  take  place  when  the  oyster 
is  boiled.  Is  an  oyster  cooked  enough  to 
be  safe  as  zvell  cooked  as  one  prepared 
at  a  lower  temperature?  Compare  the 
egg  and  the  oyster.  Heat  the  oyster 
juice  and  notice  the  color  and  consistencv. 


Oyster  Stew 

1  pint  of  oysters 

1  pint  of  scalded  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wash  the  oysters  very  carefully,  to 
make  sure  that  no  pieces  of  shell  are  at- 
tached to  the  gills  or  mantle.  (It  is  neces- 
sary to  examine  each  oyster  separately 
and  with  the  fingers.  Use  only  a  small 
portion  of  water  to  wash  the  oysters,  as 
less  albumin  is  lost  in  that  way.)  Strain 
the  oyster  liquor  through  cheese-cloth 
and  heat  the  oysters  in  it  until  the  edges 
curl,  then  add  to  the  scalded  milk  in  the 
double  boiler.  Add  the  seasonings  and 
butter,  then  serve  hot  with  crackers. 

Last,  let  us  consider  the  method  of 
cooking  fish  by  which  we  both  retain  and 
extract  the  juices.  This  method  is  illus- 
trated by  fish  stew,  commonly  known  as 
chowder.  In  this  dish  we  wish  to  have 
the  broth,  or  liquid  part  of  the  chowder, 
savory  and  rich,  while  at  the  same  time 
we  do  not  discard  the  pieces  of  fish,  but 
expect  them  also  to  be  juicy  and  of  good 
flavor.  Let  the  pupils  suggest  means  by 
which  these  ends  may  be  attained. 

Fish  Chowder 

1  small  haddock 

1  sliced  onion 

4  medium-sized  potatoes 

1  pint  of  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
4  crackers,   split  in  half 
Salt  and  pepper 

Have  the  fish  prepared  at  the  market 
for  chowder;  that  is  have  it  skinned,  but 
sent  with  the  head  and  tail.  Place  the 
head  and  tail  in  a  saucepan  and  cover 
with  cold  water.  Let  stand  fifteen 
minutes  or  more,  then  heat  slowly  to  the 
boiling  point.  Cut  the  remainder  of  the 
fish  into  two-inch  pieces  and  remove  all 
bones.  Put  these  bones  with  the  head 
and  tail  for  the  '*fish  stock."  Cut  the 
prepared  potatoes  into  dice  and  parboil 
them  five  minutes.  Fr\'  out  the  pork  and 
cook  the  onion,  cut  into  small  pieces,  in 


440 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


the  fat,  until  it  is  a  golden  brown.  Re- 
move from  the  fire,  add  the  pieces  of 
fish,  cover  with  the  fish  stock  and  then 
let  cook  gently,  just  below  the  boiling 
point.  Add  the  parboiled  potatoes  and, 
when  the  potatoes  are  tender  and  the 
fish  white  and  flaky,  season,  add  the  milk 
and  butter  and  the  crackers.  The 
crackers  may  be  placed  in  the  bottom  of 
the  serving  dish  and  the  chowder  poured 
over  them,  if  preferred. 

What  is  the  difference  in  composition 
between  the  fish  and  potato?  AA'hat  dif- 
ference in  cooking  temperature?  Why 
''parboil"  the  potato  before  adding  it  to 
the  chowder? 

Beside  the  various  forms  of  fresh  fish 
we  may  alse  use  fish  that  has  been  pre- 
served in  some  way.  Let  the  pupils  name 
the  various  methods  by  which  fish  may 
be  ''kept"  or  preserved.  The  use  of  such 
fish  may  be  illustrated  by  the  preparation 
of  a  "Finnan  Haddie"  and  by  picked 
fish.  Potatoes  may  be  baked  with  either 
dish,  as  a  review. 

"Finnan  Haddie" 

Wipe  the  haddie  with  a  damp  cloth 
and  place  on  a  greased  wire  broiler. 
Broil  until  brown  on  both  sides,  being 
careful  not  to  burn  the  skin.  Take  it  off 
the  broiler  and  lay  it  in  a  dish  and  cover 
with  boiling  water.  Let  stand  five  or  ten 
minutes,  then  drain  off  all  the  water  and 
put  the  fish  on  a  platter.  Spread  with  a 
little  butter  and  sprinkle  with  pepper. 
Salt  may  be  added  if  necessary. 

(Why  may  salt  be  required?  ^^^hy  is 
the  butter  needed?) 


Picked  Fish 

1  cup   of  salt  codfish. 

1  cup  of  thin   white   sauce. 

Pick  the  fish  into  small  flakes  and  let 

soak,  if  necessary,  in  a  little  cold  water 

until  the  fish  is  tender.     Cook  the  fish 

until  white  and  flaky  in  water  just  below 

the  boiling  point,  then  add  to  the  white 

sauce  and  serve  with  baked  potatoes  or 

on  toast. 

Scalloped  Fish 

For  this  dish  remnants  of  cold  cooked 
fish  may  be  used,  with  white  sauce  and  a 
covering  of  buttered  cracker  crumbs  over 
the  top.  Bake  in  the  oven  until  the 
crumbs  are  a  golden  brown.  Parsley 
may  be  used  to  garnish  or  flavor  this 
dish.  Be  sure  the  parsley  is  very  care- 
fully washed  and  dried  and,  if  used  as  a 
garnish,  that  the  stems  are  hidden  and 
that  it  be  not  used  too  freely. 

Fish  is  a  valuable  food,  both  on  ac- 
count of  its  digestibility  and  its  compara- 
tive cheapness.  It  may  take  the  place  of 
meat  in  supplying  muscle-building  ma- 
terial and  it  is  often  very  desirable  as  a 
substitute.  It  is  most  important  that 
great  care  be  taken  to  have  the  fish  as 
fresh  as  possible  and,  certainly,  in  a  per- 
fectly good  condition.  Canned  fish  must 
be  removed  immediately  from  the  can, 
after  opening,  as  canned  fish  spoils  with 
particular  rapidity  when  exposed  to  the 
air.  Fish  should  be  "handled  in  a  cleanly 
manner  and  stored  and  exposed  for  sale 
under  hygienic  conditions."  It  is  both 
wise  and  necessary  that  the  housewife 
keep  her  eyes  open  when  she  is  buying 
her  supplies. 


April 

By  Lalia  Mitchell 


So  lightly  o'er  the  leas  she  trod, 
We  scarcely  heard  her  passing  feet, 

For  March  was  here,  a  warlike  god 
And  then  we  saw  her  fair  and  sweet. 


With  blossoms  in  her  dimpled  hands, 
And  robins  singing  round  her  head. 

The  Queen  of  Spring  to  Northern  Lands- 
Each  year  she  leaves  us  comforted. 


Contributions   to  this   department  will    be  gladly  received.     Accepted  items   will  be 
paid  for  at  reasonable  rates. 


The  Moving  Mania 

"We  are  no  other  than  a  moving  row 
Of  social  tramps  that  hither,  thither  go." 

THE  much  quoted  saying,  that  the 
strength  of  the  nation  rests  in  its 
homes,  refers  to  homes  of  permanency 
and  not  to  famihes  who  semi-annually 
take  their  folding  beds  and  other  multi- 
purpose furniture  to  new  localities 
where  they  have  no  real  interest  or  feel 
no  responsibility.  "Really,  I  don't  know 
where  I'm  from,"  said  a  young  married 
woman.  "When  I  was  a  child  we  moved 
every  year  or  two,  changing  from  town 
to  city,  then  on  to  another  city,  and 
since  I  was  married  we  have  boarded 
at  hotels.  I  cannot  truthfully  speak  of 
any  place  as  my  old  home." 

Americans  sentimentalize  much  about 
home  but  are  losing  their  devotion  to  it 
and  rendering  its  name  a  word  without 
meaning.  This  state  of  afifairs  is  attrib- 
uted sometimes  to  the  love  of  change  but 
most  frequently  to  the  difficulty  of  se- 
curing good  household  help.  "If  I  could 
find  good  servants,  I  would  keep  house," 
is  a  familiar  remark  of  the  woman  who 
makes  an  apology  for  a  home  in  one 
room  and  dines  with  her  husband  at  a 
public  table. 

In  some  respects  women  are  prone  to 
live  in  their  grandmothers'  day.  Radical 
reorganizations  of  housekeeping  methods 
must  come  inevitably,  but  so  far,  rather 
than     compromise     and     overcome     old 


prejudices,  women  are  going  to  the 
other  extreme  and  are  trying  to  get  rid 
of  all  their  burdens,  let  the  result  be  what 
it  will.  Every  spring  and  fall  great 
moving  vans  carry  more  and  more  furni- 
ture to  storage  houses  in  the  cities.  A 
family  loans  its  piano  for  the  care  given 
to  it,  sells  carpets  and  rugs  to  the  new 
tenant,  who  follows  them,  and  stores  bed 
room  furnishings  in  somebody's  attic. 
Pets  and  plants  are  scattered  or  de- 
stroyed and  the  former  mistress  of  a 
household  is  free. 

Free  for  what?  Unless  she  has  a 
strong  will  she  fills  her  days  with  whist, 
shopping,  gossiping  and  meditation  on 
her  physical  ills.  Her  husband  misses 
his  old  run-down  slippers  that  are  not 
consistent  now  with  their  semi-public 
life;  he  can't  go  to  the  basement  for  a 
little  amateur  carpentering,  he  misses  his 
dog,  he  longs  for  his  favorite  dessert, 
made  after  the  traditional  family  recipe, 
and  he  misses  privacy  wherein  to  let  his 
troubled  nerves  and  shaky  temper  have 
their  fling  for  a  few  minutes,  to  clear 
away  the  irritations  of  business  hours. 
Possibly  he  just  wants  to  be  still  and 
not  even  think  or  hear.  .  He  cannot  do 
this  in  any  boarding  house  or  hotel 
where  a  family  of  moderate  means  can 
afford  to  live. 

Next  to  those  who  board  are  those 
who  have  homes  on  wheels.  They  are  as 
unstable  as  the  home-seekers  or  the  claim 
jumpers  of  the  West.     With  each  mov- 


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ing  much  is  destroyed  or  given  to  the 
second-hand  dealer,  in  order  to  reduce  the 
work  of  packing  and  the  moving  bills. 
These  people  believe  that  they  have 
homes,  but  they  never  have  interesting 
homes.  There  are  no  quaint  heirlooms 
in  such  houses  or  apartments  nor  any- 
thing expressing  individuality.  There  is 
no  story  or  sentiment  connected  with 
things ;  no  chair  that  was  grandfather's, 
no  table  at  which  great-aunt  entertained 
a  celebrity ;  ancestral  china  was  broken 
long  ago  in  moving.  Perhaps  the  family 
leases  the  home  furnished  for  a  season 
to  strangers  and  after  that  it  never  seems 
so  much  their  own  or  so  sacred. 

The  inability  to  clean  house  without 
moving,  or  to  resist  the  contagion  of 
other  restless  movers,  is  an  indication 
that  the  family  will  sometime  find  shel- 
ter in  a  boarding  house  or  that  ties  will 
be  loosened  early  and  members  drift 
apart.  Memories  of  a  family  hearth- 
stone are  the  rightful  heritage  of  all 
children  and  a  comfort,  even  if  tinged 
with  sadness,  in  the  days  when  "the  road 
grows   strange   with    faces   new." 

A.  E.  w. 
^  ^  ^ 

Scissors  in  the  Kitchen 

I  OFTEN  wonder  how  many  busy 
people  keep  a  pair  of  scissors  in 
their  kitchen ! 

Those  who  do  not,  had  better  start 
now — the  uses  are  manifold. 

Hang  an  old  pair  in  a  conspicuous 
place,  and  remember' they  must  be  kept 
perfectly  clean  the  same  as  any  other 
piece  of  steel. 

Not  the  least  among  the  various  uses 
ours  are  put  to  might  be  mentioned : 
cut  the  roots  or  stems  from  spinach  with 
scissors,  instead  of  a  knife. 

Cut  the  fins  from  fish  with  scissors, 
and  avoid  the  risk  of  hurting  your  fin- 
gers. 

Use  scissors  to  separate  bunches  of 
grapes,   and  to  cut  flowers. 


After  grape  fruit  is  cut  in  halves,  use 
scissors  to  remove  core  and  seeds. 
<  Flour  slightly  raisins,  figs,  dates,  then 
cut  them  up  with  the  scissors ;  clams  are 
much  easier  cut  with  scissors  than  with 
a  knife. 

Cut  parsley  with  scissors  for  stews 
and  so  on. 

I  could  go  on  citing,  and  citing;  but — 
try  these  hints,  and  gradually  you  will 
keep  finding  more  and  more  good  ways 
to  make  use  of  your  friend,  the  scissors. 

L.    N. 

*  *  * 
Preserving  a  Youthful  Step 

THAT  is  the  step  of  a  young  per- 
son," said  my  aunt  as  we  sat  in 
the  dusk  of  a  moonless  summer  night, 
listening  intently  for  the  coming  of  a 
loved  one. 

The  words  haunted  my  brain,  as  words 
have  a  habit  of  doing.  I  began  watching 
steps,  listening  to  them  at  night,  and  ex- 
perimenting a  little  with  my  own.  I  soon 
learned  that  youth,  health,  and  correct- 
ness of  carriage  were  all  betokened  in 
the  step,  and  discernible  by  either  eye  or 
ear. 

Watching  the  children  of  the  neigh- 
borhood, I  saw  that  the  majority  of  them 
walked  lightly  (due  to  youth's  elasticity 
and  light-heartedness  as  well  as  bodily 
vigor),  almost  invariably  putting  down 
the  front  part  of  the  foot  first.  But 
grown  people — old  people  always — walk 
in  a  more  determined  way,  flatly  placing 
the  whole  foot  down  at  once,  sometimes 
even  the  heel  first.  The  result  in  sound 
is  a  firm,  heavy  tread,  businesslike  per- 
haps, but  usually  graceless  and  always 
age-proclaiming. 

More  than  that,  I  noticed  that  graceful 
men  and  women  (for  men  can  be  grace- 
ful and  yet  manly.  Watch  soldiers  walk 
if  you  do  not  think  so),  keep  their  elas- 
ticity largely  by  this  correct  placing  of 
the  foot,  although  we  usually  attribute 
their  grace  and  lightness  to  the  carriage 
of  the  body. 


HOME    IDEAS    AND    ECONOMICS 


443 


It  means  even  more  than  this,  as  I 
found  when  experimenting:  In  walking 
flat-footed  or  heel  first  I  felt  a  jar  the 
full  length  of  my  spine  in  every  step. 
One  block  of  that  kind  of  walking  tired 
me  more  than  three  blocks  when  the 
foot  was  put  down  correctly.  Try  it 
yourself  when  next  on  the  street  and 
see  if  my  imagination  is  to  blame  for 
the  verdict. 

However  that  may  be,  I  know  that  a 
woman  preserves  her  youthful  appear- 
ance on  the  street  by  cultivating  the  easy, 
elastic  step  of  a  child.  It  does  not  mean 
an  affected,  mincing  step,  so  much  to  be 
disliked  in  mature  years,  but  less  rigidity 
and  jar.  Nor  is  it  difficult,  unless  one 
is  fleshy  or  has  been  long  in  the  habit  of 
flat-footed  walking. 

Would  you  appear  young  and  grace- 
ful on  the  street?  Then  watch  your 
feet.  L.  M.  c. 

*  *  ^ 

WE  made  some  javelle  water,  to  re- 
move some  mildew  from  a  white 
dress  and  accidentally  found  that  it  took 
every  vestige  of  color  from  the  parts  of 
an  apron  upon  which  it  spattered.  So 
we  got  out  a  number  of  dresses  that  had 
become  so  faded  that  we  did  not  care 
to  wear  them  any  more  and  bleached 
them.  Now  they  are  our  white  after- 
noon dresses  and  will  serve  far  into  the 
winter  as  work  dresses  for  house  wear. 
A  neighbor  did  the  same  thing,  then 
dyed  her  dresses  a  solid  color  and,  I 
must  admit,  they  look  like  new. 

For  those  who  have  never  prepared 
javelle  water  I  will  say  that  it  is  made 
by  dissolving  chloride  of  lime  in  water, 
the  proportions  being  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  lime  to  a  gallon  of  water. 

An  alarm  clock  does  good  service  in 
my  grandmother's  kitchen.  When  she 
leaves  the  room  to  do  something  in  an- 
other part  of  the  house  she  sets  it  so 
that  it  will  call  her  attention  to  any  bak- 
ing or  other  thing  that  ought  to  be  at- 
tended  to   at   a   certain   time.      It   saves 


lots  of  gas  as  well  as  food  that  would 
otherwise  be  spoiled  because  of  growing 
forgetfulness. 

Children's  dresses  and  Russian  suits 
are  much  easier  to  iron  when  they  button 
all  the  way  down,  front  or  back.  The 
putting  on  of  extra  hooks  and  eyes  or 
the  making  of  additional  button-holes 
saves  so  much  time  and  energy  that,  once 
tried,  this  method  will  always  be  used  by 
a  mother  who  does  her  own  ironing. 

C.     F.     S. 

^   ^   ^ 

Night  Work 

AFTER  spending  a  pleasant  restful 
evening,  I  feel  much  more  like 
working  than  I  do  during  the  heat  of 
the  day,  especially  after  having  donned 
my  afternoon  gown.  From  some  light- 
weight gingham  I  make  a  couple  of 
aprons  cut  square  in  the  neck,  large 
enough  to  cover  me  completely,  and  with 
sleeves  to  the  elbow.  After  removing  my 
good  afternoon  dress  at  night,  I  slip  into 
one  of  the  cool  aprons,  and  go  down 
stairs  for  a  half  hour  or  so  of  work.  I 
prepare  everything  possible  for  break- 
fast, set  the  house  in  order,  and  wash 
the  dishes  that  have  been  left  so  that 
I  need  not  wash  them  in  my  fresh  gowns 
at  the  very  pleasantest  part  of  the  day. 
If  there  are  clothes  to  be  ironed  next 
day,  I  sprinkle  them,  and  when  cookies 
are  to  be  baked  I  stir  them  up  at  night 
as  they  are  so  much  better  for  standing 
over  night  in  a  cool  place.  All  this 
makes  a  great  difference  with  the  morn- 
ing work,  saves  my  afternoon  dresses 
greatly,  and  is  not  nearly  so  unpleasant 
as  it  may  seem  before  trying  it. 

Raising  Nasturtiums 

One  corner  of  our  lawn  at  the  side  of 
the  house  is  a  rough,  rocky  place,  very 
unlovely,  indeed.  As  we  have  not  so  far 
been  able  to  fill  it  in.  we  hide  its  ugliness 
in  this  manner :  After  working  up  the 
soil  as  well  as  possible,  and  adding  a  ht- 


444 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


tie  more  over  the  surface,  we  planted 
climbing  nasturtiums  with  generous  hand. 
Over  the  surface  we  then  scattered 
rather  coarse  brush.  When  the  plants 
came  up,  they  climbed  about  the  sur- 
rounding branches  until  there  was  a 
beautiful  mass  of  foliage  and  bloom  so 
raised  above  the  ground  that  it  was  very 
attractive.  This  is  much  better  than 
planting  the  low^  plants. 

Inexpensive  Cloths 

At  our  local  bakers  we  can  get  the 
large  cloth  sacks  in  which  they  buy 
flour,  for  two  cents  each ;  these  are  use- 
ful about  the  house  in  many  ways.  Cut 
in  two  and  hemmed  they  make  good 
wiping  towels  for  the  coarse  dishes,  sav- 
ing the  fine  linen  towels.  They  make 
soft  dish-cloths,  really  superior  to  linen. 
as  they  are  free  from  lint.  We  find 
them  convenient  for  picnics  and  camp- 
ing parties,  as  there  is  no  fear  felt  for 
their  care,  and  while  white  and  clean,  it 
makes  little  matter,  if  they  are  lost  or 
stained.  a.  m.  a. 

^  *  * 

A  Xew  ]Method  of  Preserving 

THE  following  method  of  preserv- 
ing which  calls  for  no  fire,  and  is 
not  the  cold  water  method,  nor  cooking 
in  the  sun,  nor  the  drying,  smoking  or 
salting  process,  is  well  commended  by 
leading  Delaware  housekeepers,  who 
learned  of  it  from  a  lady  who  gave  out 
the  idea  at  a  domestic  science  meeting 
in  one  of  the  large  cities. 

Although  vinegar  is  used  in  the  pre- 
liminary process,  the  result  is  in  no  wise 
a  pickle,  or  sweet  pickle.  \^inegar  is 
used  first  and  then  sugar. 

For  instance,  to  preserve  cherries : 
Stone  the  cherries  and  cover  with  vin- 
egar. Let  this  stand  on  the  cherries  over 
night  in  a  cool  place.  Next  day  drain 
oflF  the  vinegar  and  cherry  juice  and  keep 
for  a  beverage.  It  is  cherry  vinegar  or 
cherry  ''shrub,"  when  sugar  is  added  to 
it.     Delaware  cherry  vinegar  is  as  much 


esteemed  as  raspberry  vinegar.  This  is, 
however,  a  by-product,  the  main  thing  be- 
ing the  fruit  itself. 

After  draining  off  the  vinegar  put  the 
cherries  in  a  stone  crock  with  alternate 
layers  of  white  sugar,  allowing  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  for  every 
pint  of  cherries.  Keep  the  crock  cov- 
ered and  in  a  cool  place.  Stir  it  gently 
so  as  not  to  cut  up  the  fruit  every  day 
for  ten  days.  A  wooden  spatula,  or 
spoon,  is  a  good  thing  to  use  for  this. 
The  fruit  may  then  be  put  into  smaller 
receptacles,  but  need  not  be  sealed  air- 
tight. The  result  is  pronounced  deli- 
cious. 

Mnegar  is  often  scorned  by  cooks 
who  should  know  its  value.  A  spoonful 
or  two  in  blueberry  pies  is  a  great  im- 
provement, when  the  berries  are  taste- 
less ;  real,  spicy  fresh  berries  do  not 
need  it.  Also  in  peach  jam  a  little  cider 
vinegar  is  an  improvement,  but  this  idea 
of  first  treating  the  fruit  with  vinegar 
is  novel,  yet  sensible. 

Planked  Steak,  Philadelphia  Style 

Planked  fish  has  long  been  a  favorite 
dish  in  this  region,  but  the  planked 
steaks  are  now  high  in  favor, — a  many- 
in-one  dish.  The  steak  is,  of  course,  in 
the  center,  and  a  wall  of  mashed  potato 
is  put  around  the  edge  and  scored  with 
a  knife  and  browned ;  or  is  piped  on  with 
a  bag  in  more  fanciful  forms.  Between 
these  are  placed  a  variety  of  the  best 
vegetables,  most  of  them  from  the  South, 
almost  seedlings  so  small  and  tender  are 
they.  These  include  green  peas,  string 
beans  that  are  mere  threads,  tiny  lima 
beans,  little  orange  carrots,  and  parsnips, 
not  more  than  an  inch  or  two  long, 
onions  to  match,  and  some  julienne  pota- 
toes. 

Fresh    Fig    Ice    Cream,    Norfolk. 
Virginia,   Style 

Fresh  figs  are  used  for  flavoring  ice 
cream  in  Virginia  as  we  use  bananas  or 
peaches.      The    fresh    ripe    fruit    is    cut 


HOME   IDEAS    AND    ECONOMIES 


445 


rather  fine  and  added  to  pure  sweetened 
cream  and  frozen.  With  figs  at  winter 
prices  in  our  Northern  fruit  stands, — 
twenty-five  cents  for  three  figs, — we 
shall  not  indulge  freely,  but  when  figs 
are  at  reasonable  summer  prices  this  may 
be  tried  for  a  novelty. 

Dried  figs  are  used  in  frozen  pudding 
or  tutti-frutti  ice  cream. 

Virginia  Hams   (Jambon  de  Vir- 
ginie) 

The  Smithfield  hams  of  Virginia  are 
famous ;  not  only  are  they  carefully 
cured  and  smoked,  but  the  pigs  are  se- 
lected and  carefully  fed.  Their  diet  is 
largely  made  up  of  the  peas  grown  in 
the  cornfields,  between  the  rows  of  corn, 
and  peanuts.  Norfolk  is  one  of  the  larg- 
est peanut-exporting  cities  of  the  world. 

"Peach-fed"  pork  is  rather  a  fantastic 
idea,  still  often  the  pigs  are  turned  into 
orchards  to  eat  up  windfall  fruit,  when 
labor  and  distance  from  market  prevent 
the  disposal  of  the  crop,  also  to  destroy 
the  poor  fruit  that  would  harbor  insects 
injurious  to  the  trees. 

To  Serve  Iced  Fruit  Juices  For  a 
Beverage 

MANY  people  order  fruit  juices 
instead  of  wine,  and  the  serving 
must  be  just  as  choice  and  dainty.  Of 
course  large  quantities  of  fruit  punch, 
kept  well  iced,  are  served  from  punch 
bowls.  But  it  is  also  well  to  know  how 
to  serve  individual  orders  at  a  tea  room, 
or  a  luncheon  party,  or  to  tempt  the 
appetite  of  an  invalid. 

Take  a  nice  china  bowl  and  fill  it  well 
with  crushed  ice.  Make  a  depression  in 
the  top  and  line  it  with  a  fresh  vine  leaf. 
In  this  set  evenly  and  securely  the  glass 
cup  holding  the  fruit  juice.  The  green 
leaf  gives  a  pretty  color  efifect  and  keeps 
the  cup  from  dripping  ice  water  when 
lifted.  In  winter  a  hothouse  grape  leaf 
must  be  used,  unless  one  substitute  rose 
geranium  leaves,  or  possibly  galax,  using 
three  or  more. 


Almost  any  fruit  juice  is  acceptable. 
Put  up  in  cans  it  keeps  perfectly  if  well 
scalded.  Try  currant,  or  currant  and 
raspberry  mixed,  cherry,  either  white  or 
red,  gooseberry,  rhubarb,  green  grape 
and  the  like.  The  foreign  vegetarian 
cookery  books  give  a  great  variety  of 
these  fruit  beverages  and  suggest  an 
infinite  variety  by  combination. 

J.  D.  c. 
*  *  * 

T  NOTE  in  the  December,  1910,  num- 
*  ber  that  a  lady  fears  that  the  receipt 
for  Date  Loaf  Cake  is  not  correct.  She 
need  have  no  fear  to  try  it,  as  I  have 
made  it  twice  and  found  it  very  nice. 
I,  too.  though  the  receipt  peculiar  in  not 
calling  for  any  fluid — molasses,  water  or 
milk,  but  as  I  have  always  had  splendid 
success  with  every  receipt  in  the  Boston 
Cooking-School  Magazine,  I  went  to 
work  to  make  it,  following  the  receipt 
exactly.  I  added  the  beaten  whites  last 
and  found  they  gave  all  the  moisture 
needed.     The  cake  was  light  and  nice. 

Some  months  ago  a  lady  asked  for 
receipt  for  Sponge  Cake.  The  follow- 
ing is  an  old  receipt  said  to  be  that  by 
which  the  celebrated  "Berwick  Sponge 
Cake"  was  made.  My  grandmother 
used  it,  my  mother  always  has  used  it, 
and  I  always  use  it,  and  we  have  never 
had  a  failure. 

6  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  beaten  separately. 

3  cups  of  powdered  sugar.  (I  always  use 
granulated. 

4  even  cups  of  sifted  flour  with  2  rounded 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder  sifted  in  the 
flour. 

1  cup  of  cold  water. 

Beat  the  whites  and  set  them  aside, 
beat  the  yolks  two  or  three  minutes,  add 
the  sugar  and  mix  thoroughly,  a  few 
drops  of  the  water  can  be  added  to  make 
it  mix  well.  Now  add  the  water,  and 
mix  well.  Beat  in  the  flour  and,  lastly, 
fold  in  the  whites,  beating  as  little  as 
possible.  Have  the  pan  hot  and  well 
greased.  Oven  must  not  be  too  hot.  Set 
pan  on  an  asbestos  pad,  if  you  have  one. 


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QUERV 

Poulette. 


1705. — ''Recipe     for     Oysters     a     la 


Oysters  a  la   Poulette 


1  quart  of  oysters 
H  cups  of  hot  chicken 

broth 
4  yolks  of  eggs 
1  cup  of  cream 
A  grating  of  nutmeg 
1  teaspoonful    of    salt 


ot 


i  a     teaspoonful 
pepper 

1  tablespoonful  of 
hne-chopped  pars- 
ley 

Juice  of  ^  a  lemon 


Pour  a  cup  of  cold  water  over  the 
oysters,  pick  up  each  oyster  separately, 
rinse  in  the  liquid  and  remove  bits  of 
shell  if  present.  Heat  the  oysters  to  the 
boiling  point  in  the  chicken  broth.  The 
broth  is  better  if  flavored  with  onion, 
celery,  carrot  and  parsley.  Beat  the 
yolks,  add  the  cream  and  stir  into  the 
hot  mixture.  Cook  and  stir,  over  boiling 
water,  until  the  sauce  thickens ;  add  the 
other  ingredients  and  serve  at  once.  A 
cup  of  canned  button  mushrooms,  cut  in 
halves,  lengthwise,  may  be  added  just 
before  the  eggs.  Fresh  mushroom  caps, 
peeled,  broken  in  pieces  and  simmered 
ten  minutes  in  the  chicken  broth  before 
the  oysters  are  added,  give  a  very  choice 
dish.  Two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
cooked  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
are  sometimes  stirred  into  the  broth  be- 
fore the  oysters  are  added. 


Query  1706.— •'Recipe  for  Halibut  Steaks 
Baked  with  Oysters,  Hollandaise  Sauce  :  Egg 
Timbales,  Bread  Sauce :  Tomato  Rabbit : 
Prune-and-Pecan  Nut  Salad  ;  Creamed  Corned 
Beef  Au  Gratin  and  Baked  Bananas,  Sultana 
Sauce." 


Halibut  Steaks,  Baked  with 
Oysters 

Have  two  halibut  steaks  cut  about  an 
inch  and  a  half  in  thickness.  Lay  some 
slices  of  onion  on  these,  sprinkle  with 
lemon  juice  and  let'  stand  until  ready 
to  bake.  Lay  thin  slices  of  salt  pork 
on  a  fish  sheet  in  a  baking  pan  (with- 
out a  fish  sheet  use  the  cover  of  a  tin 
cracker  box,  with- edges  flattened).  Set 
one  slice  of  fish  on  the  sheet  and  sprinkle 
with  salt.  Have  a  half-pint  of  oysters, 
freed  from  bits  of  shell;  dip  the  oysters, 
one  by  one,  in  melted  butter  and  then 
in  cracker  crumbs,  and  lay  them  on  the 
slice  of  fish  to  cover  it  completely. 
Sprinkle  the  oysters  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Lay  the  second  slice  of  fish  over  the 
oysters;  season  with  salt  and  lay  strips 
of  salt  pork  over  it.  Let  bake  about 
forty  minutes,  basting  with  the  fat  in 
the  pan  or  a  little  melted  butter.  A  few 
minutes  before  the  fish  is  to  be  taken 
from  the  oven,  remove  the  bits  of  pork 
on  the  top  and  spread  over  the  fish  about 
two-thirds  a  cup  of  cracker  crumbs 
mixed  with  one-fourth  a  cup  of  melted 
butter.  Serve,  when  the  crumbs  are 
browned,  with  maitre  d'hotel  potatoes 
and  drawn  butter  or  Hollandaise  sauce 
in  a  bowl.  Serve  also  cucumber  or  let- 
tuce salad. 

Drawn  Butter  Sauce 

Make  a  sauce  with  one- fourth  a  cup. 
each,   of    butter   and    flour,    half    a    tea- 


446 


QUERIES  AND  ANSWERS 


447 


spoonful  of  salt  and  two  cups  of  water, 
then  remove  to  the  back  of  the  range 
and  gradually  beat  in  one-fourth  a  cup 
of  butter,  a  little  at  a  time.  Two 
tablespoonfuls  of  capers  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice  may  be  added, 
or  a  cup  of  parboiled  and  drained  oys- 
ters may  be  added.  In  using  the  oysters 
take  the  oyster  liquid  instead  of  water 
for  the  liquid  of  the  sauce. 

Potatoes  a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel 

Have  a  pint  of  potato  balls  scooped 
from  raw  potatoes  with  a  French  cutter. 
Boil  till  tender  in  boiling,  salted  water 
and  drain ;  add  nearly  a  cup  of  milk 
and,  when  this  is  hot,  stir  in  three  or 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  creamed  butter, 
into  which  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  fine-chopped  parsley  have  been 
stirred. 

Egg  Timbales 

Beat  six  eggs  without  separating  the 
whites  and  yolks.  Add  a  scant  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  a  dash  of  pepper,  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  chopped  parsley,  twenty  drops  of 
onion  juice,  and  one  cup  and  a  half  of 
rich  milk.  Mix  thoroughly,  and  pour 
into  well-byttered  timbale  molds.  Cook, 
set  on  folds  of  paper,  surrounded  by  hot 
water,  until  the  centres  are  firm.  Turn 
from  the  molds  upon  a  hot  platter,  and 
surround  with  bread  sauce. 

Bread  Sauce 

Put  half  a  cup  of  fine  bread  crumbs 
from  the  centre  of  a  stale  loaf,  a  peeled 
onion  into  which  six  cloves  have  been 
pushed,  half  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt 
and  paprika,  and  one  pint  of  milk  over 
the  fire  in  a  double  boiler.  Cover,  and 
let  cook  about  one  hour.  Remove  the 
onion  and  cloves.  Add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  butter,  and  beat  thoroughly. 
Then  pour  over  the  timbales.  Half  a 
cup  of  coarse  bread  crumbs  (centre  of 
loaf),  browned  in  three  or  four  table- 
spoonfuls of  butter  made  hot  in  a  frying- 
pan,  may  be  sprinkled  over  the  whole. 


2  cups  of  cold  corned 

beef  cut  in  small 
cubes 
?{  a     cup     of     cracker 
crumbs 

3  tablespoonfuls     of 
melted  butter 


Creamed  Corned  Beef  au  Gratin 

2  cups   of   milk 
i  a  slice  of  onion 
2  stalks  of  celery 
i  a  cup   of   butter 
4:  a  cup  of  flour 
I  a      teaspoonful      of 

paprika 
Salt  as  needed 

wScald  the  onion  and  celery  in  the  milk 
(a  teaspoonful  of  celery  seeds  tied  in  a 
cloth  will  do).  Cream  the  butter,  work 
in  the  flour,  paprika  and  salt  and  dilute 
with  a  little  of  the  hot  milk,  then  stir 
into  the  rest  of  the  milk.  Continue  stir- 
ring imtil  the  mixture  thickens,  then 
cover  and  let  cook  twenty  minutes.  Re- 
move the  celery  and  onion ;  stir  in  the 
cubes  of  corned  beef  and  turn  into  a 
buttered  shallow  dish.  Stir  the  crumbs 
into  the  melted  butter  and  spread  these 
above  the  meat.  Set  into  a  hot  oven  to 
brown  the  crumbs. 


Baked  Bananas,  Sultana  Sauce 


4  a    cup    of    Sultana 

raisins 
1  cup     or     more     of 

boiling  water 

1  cup  of  sugar 

2  teaspoon  fuls  or 
more  of  corn 
starch 


1        teaspoonful 

butter 
1        teaspoonful 

vanilla  or 
3       teaspoonfuls 

sherry 
8  bananas 


of 
of 
of 


Pull  down  a  section  of  a  banana  skin, 
then  loosen  the  pulp  from  the  rest  of 
the  skin ;  remove  all  coarse  threads  and 
replace  the  fruit  in  its  original  position 
in  the  skin.  Set  the  bananas  in  an  agate 
pan  into  the  oven  to  cook  until  the  skin 
is  blackened  and  the  pidp  is  soft.  The 
length  of  time  needed  will  depend  on 
the  heat  of  the  oven,  probably  about 
twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  At 
least  an  hour  before  serving  set  the 
cleaned  raisins  to  cook  in  the  boiling 
water,  adding  water  as  needed.  Mix  and 
sift  together  the  sugar  and  cornstarch 
and  stir  these  through  the  raisins  and 
water;  stir  until  boiling,  then  let  simmer 
ten  minutes  and  add  the  butter  and 
flavoring.  Remove  the  bananas  from  the 
skin  to  a  hot  plate   (they  may  be  coiled 


448 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


in  a  half  circle).  Pour  over  the  sauce 
and  serve  at  once.  These  may  be  used 
as  a  sweet  entree  with  meats  (roast  lamb 
in  particular)   or  as  a  dessert  dish. 

Tomato  Rabbit 

Melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in 
a  blazer  or  double  boiler ;  add  one  pound 
of  cheese,  grated  or  cut  fine,  and  stir 
until  the  cheese  is  melted,  adding,  mean- 
while, half  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt, 
paprika  and  soda.  Beat  the  yolks  of 
four  eggs  (two  whole  eggs  may  be  sub- 
stituted) ;  add  a  cup  of  tomato  puree 
(cooked  tomatoes  pressed  through  a 
sieve  to  exclude  skin  and  seeds)  and  stir 
into  the  cheese  mixture.  Stir  constantly 
until  the  mixture  thickens.  The  mixture 
should  not  boil  from  start  to  finish ; 
when  boiling  seems  imminent,  set  the 
hot  water  pan  in  place.  Serve  on  the 
untoasted  side  of  bread  toasted  upon  but 
one  side. 

Prune-and-Pecan  Nut  Salad,  Etc. 

Prune-and-Pecan  Nut  Salad  and  Hol- 
landaise  Sauce,  the  other  recipes  called 
for,  may  be  found  among  the  "Season- 
able Recipes"  published  in  this  number. 


Query  1707.     "Recipe  for  Caramel  Icing  and 
Filling." 


Caramel  Icing 


I  cup    of    granulated 

sugar 
3     tablespoonfuls     of 

caramel  syrup 


h  a     cup     of     boiling 

water 
1  or  2  whites  of  eggs 

beaten  dry 


Stir  the  sugar,  syrup  and  water  over 
the  fire  until  the  sugar  is  melted;  cover 
and  let  boil  about  three  minutes,  then 
cook  to  238° F.  Pour  on  the  white  of 
egg,  beaten  dry,  beating  constantly,  mean- 
while. Return  the  whole  to  the  sauce- 
pan and  stir  while  cooking  over  hot 
water,  when  the  mixture  thickens  per- 
ceptably  and  will  very  nearly  hold  its 
shape,  it  is  ready  to  use.  The  frosting 
is  more  easily  handled  when  the  whites 
of  two  eggs  are  used.  If  one  white  of 
one  egg  be  used,  cook  a  shorter  time  in 


the  hot  water  and  spread  very  quickly,  as 
it  stiffens  quickly. 

Query  1708. — "In  recipes  calling  for  pastry 
flour  can  other  flour  be  used?  Recipes  for 
Whole  Wheat  Bread  and  Whole  Wheat  Bis- 
cuit, the  latter  made   with  baking  powder." 

Use  of  Pastry  Flour 

It  is  more  economical  to  use  pastry 
flour  than  bread  flour  for  pastry,  cake, 
etc.  Less  shortening  is  required.  It  is 
also  more  economical  to  use  bread  flour 
than  pastry  flour  in  yeast  mixtures,  be- 
cause less  flour  is  needed.  If  bread  flour 
be  put  in  place  of  pastry  flour,  use  one 
cup  and  three-fourths  of  bread  flour  for 
each  two  cups  of  pastry  flour  indicated 
in  the  recipe. 

Whole  Wheat  Bread 

(Two  loaves) 


of 


shortening 
2     tablespoonfuls 
sugar 

1  teaspoonful   of   salt 
4  cups        of        whole 

wheat    flour 

2  to  3  cups  of  white 

flour 


J  to  1  whole  cake  of 

compressed  yeast 
i  a  cup  of  lukewarm 

water 
2  cups    of    lukewarm 

liquid      (milk     or 

water  or  part   of 

each) 
2     tablespoonfuls     of 

If  the  bread  be  mixed  at  night,  use 
the  small  quantity  of  yeast  indicated, 
mixed  in  the  morning,  use  the  whole 
yeast  cake.  The  milk  should  be  scalded 
and  the  water  boiled ;  add  the'shortening, 
salt  and  sugar  and  let  cool  to  lukewarm, 
then  add  the  yeast  mixed  with  the  half 
cup  of  water  and  the  flour.  Use  an 
earthen  mixing  bowl  and  mix  the  in- 
gredients with  a  ''case"  knife  or  a  larger 
knife  of  same  shape.  Knead  the  dough 
until  smooth  and  elastic;  return  to  the 
bowl,  cover  close  and  let  stand  until 
doubled  in  bulk.  The  temperature  for 
the  first  two  hours  should  be  about  70°, 
after  fermentation  is  well  estabhshed,  if 
the  temperature  be  reduced  to  50°  or 
even  lower,  no  harm  will  result.  Cut 
through  and  through  the  dough  and  turn 
it  over  with  a  knife ;  cover  and  let.  stand 
again  until  doubled  in  bulk,  or  shape  at 
once  into  two  loaves.  When  the  loaves 
are  again  nearly  doubled  in  bulk  bake 
about  one  hour. 


Menus  for  Church  Luncheons  in  May 

I 

Cold    Boiled    Ham,    Sliced    Thin 

Hot    Creamed    Potatoes 

Lettuce-and-Egg    Salad, 

Garnish :  Juliennes  of  Fresh  Tomato 

Hot    Baking    Powder    Biscuit 

Coffee.     Hot   Brown    Bread 

Frozen  Apricots 

Cake 

H 

Creamed  Corned   Beef   au   Gratin 

Mashed   Potatoes   with   Green   Peas 

Cold   Boiled    Spinach,    Pressed 

Garnish  of   Boiled  Eggs 

Mayonnaise    or   Boiled    Dressing 

Charlotte  Russe  in   Paper  Cases 

Coffee 

HI 

Hot    Chicken    Salad   in    Chafing   Dishes 

Yeast    Rolls,    Reheated 

Pickles,    Olives 

Individual    Strawberry    Short    Cakes  ' 

Coffee 

IV 

Tomato    Rabbit    in    Chafing    Dishes. 

Egg-and-Potato    Salad 

Boston    Brown    Bread    Sandwiches 

Coffee 

pruit    Cup 

(Blood    Orange    Sherbet 

over    Macedoine   of    Strawberries, 

Pineapple  and  Banana) 

Cake 


The 

Boston  Cooking- School  Magazine 


Vol.  XV 


MAY,  1911 


No.  10 


Do  You  Get  Pure  or  Deadly  Milk? 

By  Emmett  Campbell  Hall 


TAKE  the  question  personally:  Do 
you  know  whether  the  milk  you 
use,  and  give  to  your  children, 
is  clean  and  pure,  or  swarming  with  the 
germs  of  typhoid  and  tuberculosis? 
Have  you  ever  enquired  concerning  the 
source  of  supply,  or  did  you  ever  note, 
even  the  degree  of  cleanliness  of  the 
dairy  at  which  you  purchase  it,  or  of 
the  wagon,  the  horse,  and  the  milkman 
who  delivers  it?  Or  did  you  just  take 
it  for  granted,  so  long  as  no  superficial 
grit  or  trash  appeared  in  the  milk,  that 
it  must  be  "all  right"? 

We  wouldn't  think  of  using  a  fork 
that  happened  to  fall  on  a  clean  floor — 
cleanliness  is  always  comparative,  of 
course — but  the  majority  of  us  use,  with- 
out thought  or  question,  anything  white, 
and  fairly  ''rich,"  that  the  milkman 
leaves  at  the  door.  And  this,  notwith- 
standing the  fact  that  milk  and  milk 
products  form  the  most  ready  means 
known  to  science  for  the  communication 
of  contagious  diseases. 

Next  to  bread,  milk  is  more  exten- 
sively  used   as   an   article   of    diet   than 


any  other  foodstuff.  In  greater  or  less 
quantity,  and  in  one  form  or  another, 
it  forms  a  portion  of  the  food  of  almost 
every  person  on  practically  every  day 
of  the  year.  Furthermore,  unlike  most 
foods,  milk  is  generally  consumed  in  a 
raw  state,  making  it  especially  dangerous, 
should  it  chance  to  contain  any  harmful 
organisms.  Not  only  is  milk  an  excel- 
lent medium  for  all  germ  life  that  may 
gain  access  to  it  on  its  journey  from  the 


TYPE   OF   cow    BARX    NOT    UNCOMMON 


451 


452 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


cow  to  the  final  consumer,  but  it  may  be 
contaminated  while  still  in  the  udder, 
through  poisonous  material  present  in 
the  cow  herself. 

For  several  years  local  physicians, 
health  officers,  and  the  Department  of 
Agriculture  have  waged  a  bitter  war 
against  impure  milk,  and  in  many  of 
the  large  cities  the  regulations  now  in 
force  insure  a  fair  degree  of  purity  in 
the  milk  served  by  licensed  dairies,  but, 
taking  the  country  as  a  whole,  for  each 
gallon  of  nominally  inspected  milk  con- 
sumed, there  are  used  ten  gallons  pro- 
duced, served,  and  used  without  the 
slightest  official  supervision.  Careless- 
ness, stupidity,  and  grasping  instincts,  as 
well  as  hatred  for  "newfangled  ways"  go 
far  toward  making  these  ten  gallons  a 
very  dangerous  food  product.  The  con- 
sumer must  see  to  it  that  this  milk  is 
clean  and  pure. 

"As  harmless  as  milk"  is  an  old  "say- 
ing," but  let  us  see  just  how  harmless 
milk  sometimes  is. 

In  May,  1901,  Dr.  George  M.  Kober, 
an  eminent  authority,  reported  a  series 
of  330  outbreaks  of  infectious  diseases 
that   were  spread   through  milk   supply. 


These  outbreaks  consisted  of  195  epi- 
demics of  typhoid  fever,  99  of  scarlet 
fever,  and  35  of  diphtheria.  The  out- 
breaks occurred  in  America,  England, 
Germany,  Scandanavia,  France  and 
Austria.  Two  hundred  and  forty-three 
occurred  in  England,  52  in  America,  14 
in  Germany,  11  in  Scandanavia,  and  5 
each,  in  France  and  Austria.  "This  is 
probably  due,"  said  Dr.  Kober,  "to  the 
fact  that  the  English  and  Americans 
usually  consume  raw  milk,  while  on  the 
Continent  the  milk  is  rarely  used  without 
being  boiled." 

In  1908,  in  Stockholm,  over  600  cases 
of  streptococcus  sore  throat  were  traced 
to  a  single  diseased  dairy  cow.  In  the 
same  year,  at  Washington,  D.  C,  50 
cases  of  typhoid  fever  were  traced  to  a 
single  dairy  farm.  In  1909,  in  Cassel, 
Germany,  300  cases  developed  in  a  milk- 
spread  epidemic  of  typhoid.  Practically 
all  these  cases  were  persons  who  used 
raw  milk;  no  cases  developed  in  a  large 
home  for  babies,  where  the  same  milk 
was  used,  but  where  it  was  scalded. 

This  list  could  be  lengthened  almost 
indefinitely. 

Tuberculosis  is  one  of  the  most  pre- 


TYPE  OF  MILK  HOUSE  THAT   BREEDS  DISEASE 


PURE  OR  DEADLY  MILK 


453 


:.      ■  ^       '                         '    '-'''%*.^.-.^ 

.—3 

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b^r           f ■■■ 

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'.•■Ha^iM 

1  1 

■  i 
1    M 

1  m 

■  * 

■  1^ 

T..  -liriQijjMi  JMpfc =^^^ 

A  MILK  HOUSE  THAT  MAKES  FOR  CLEANLINESS  AND  HEALTH 


valent  of  cattle  diseases ;  an  average 
herd  of  non-inspected  dairy  cows  will 
contain  anywhere  from  15  to  35  per  cent, 
of  diseased  animals.  The  danger  of  con- 
tracting tuberculosis  from  dairy  products 
can  be  eliminated  by  simply  making  sure 
that  the  cows  producing  the  milk  are 
healthy. 

Obtaining  milk  from  dairies  supplied 
by  "registered"  herds  is  the  only  prac- 
ticable method  by  which  the  consumer 
can  guard  against  tuberculosis  germs. 
Registered  cows  are  those  which  have 
been  tested  and  found  free  from  disease. 

Obtaining     milk     from     a     perfectly 
healthy   cow   does   not   solve   the   entire 
problem,  however,  as  there  still  remains 
the  danger  of  contracting  .tiisease  from 
contaminated  milk;     Dirt  of:  auy  nature,.,^ 
whether. -it  be  fouhd-'on  the  skin  -of  the- 
cow,  about  the  milking  shed,  in  the  milk,, 
cans,   or  on   the  hands  and  clothing  of 
the   milkers.-ian^i  :%andlers,   may -contain  , 
countless    thousands    of    deadly    gerrn^: 
As  many,  as  2,800,000  bacteria  per  cubic- . 
centinfeftr.   have  '-.jbeen    found    in    m{Lk 
which  tlQ6kedt^(i\^2i^,   after   it  ■  h%d ;  begil 
kept  24  hours  at  a  temperature  of  60° F. 
Find  out  whether  the  milk  vou  use  comes 


from  healthy  cows,  and  whether  it  is 
handled  in  a  sanitary  manner  by  clean 
persons.  If  you  let  stand  a  bottle  of  the 
milk  you  are  using,  over  night,  say,  does 
any  sediment  form?  If  so,  beware!  It 
is   filth  of  one  kind  or  another. 

Milk  can  be  made  safe  by  the  proper 
application  of  heat.  Two  terms  are  ap- 
plied to  the  results  of  heating  milk — 
pasteurization  and  sterilization.  Ster- 
ilization means  the  killing  of  all  the 
germs  that  may  be  present  in  the  milk. 
Pasteurization  means  the  destruction  of 
the  germs  of  most  common  occurrence, 
such  as  tuberculosis,  typhoid  fever,  and 
diptheria.  It  has  been  conclusively  estab- 
lished that  the  common  or  pathogenic 
bacteria  are  unable  to  retain  life  and 
virulence,:- when  they  are  exposed  to  a 
-temperature  of  .140° F  for  a  period  of 
^twenty  minutes,  and  the  value  of  milk  as 
a  food  is  not  perceptibly  affected  by  the 
process,  of^^asteu-rization.  The  tempera- 
tiire  required  ■  for  sterilization  does,  on 
the  other  hand,  destroy  the  enzyms  and 
-itnpair  the  nutritive  value  of  milk.  Pas- 
teurized rni|k-.  may  be  purchased  in  all 
large  cities,  but*  if  the  ''ten  gallons"  be- 
fore referred  to  are  to  be  rendered  rea- 


454 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


sonably  safe  to  use,  the  pasteurization 
must  be  done  by  the  consumer.  The  De- 
partment of  Agricuhure  gives  the  fol- 
lowing simple  directions : 

Milk  is  most  conveniently  pasteurized 
in  the  bottles  in  which  it  is  delivered. 
To  do  this  use  a  small  pail  with  a  per- 
forated false  bottom.  An  inverted  pie- 
tin  with  a  few  holes  punched  in  it  will 
answer  this  purpose.  This  will  raise 
the  bottle  from  the  bottom  of  the  pail, 
thus  allowing  a  free  circulation  of  water, 
and  preventing  bumping  of  the  bottles. 
Punch  a  hole  through  the  cap  of  one  of 
the  bottles  and  insert  a  thermometer. 
The  ordinary  floating  type  of  ther- 
mometer is  likely  to  be  inacurrate,  and 
if  possible  a  good  thermometer  with  the 
scale  etched  on  the  glass  should  be  used. 
Set  the  bottles  of  milk  in  the  pail  and 
fill  the  pail  with  water  nearly  to  the 
level  of  the  milk.  Put  the  pail  on  the 
stove  or  over  a  gas  flame  and  heat  it 
until  the  thermometer  in  the  milk  shows 
not  less  than  150°,  nor  more  than  155°F. 
The  bottles  should  then  be  removed 
from  the  water  and  allowed  to  stand 
from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes.  The 
temperature  will  fall  slowly,  but  may  be 
held  more  uniformly  by  covering  the 
bottles  with  a  towel.  The  punctured  cap 
should  be  replaced  with  a  new  one,  or 
the  bottle  covered  with  an  inverted  cup. 
After  the  milk  has  been  held  as  directed 


it  should  be  cooled  as  quickly,  and  as 
much  as  possible  by  setting  in  water. 
To  avoid  danger  of  breaking  bottles  by 
a  too  sudden  change  of  temperature,  this 
water  should  be  warm  at  first.  Replace 
the  warm  water  slowly  with  cold  water. 
After  cooling,  milk  should  in  all  cases  be 
held  at  the  lowest  available  temperature. 
This  method  may  be  employed  to  retard 
the  souring  of  milk  or  cream  for  ordin- 
ary uses.  The  pasteurized  milk  should 
be  kept  as  cold  and  used  as  soon  as 
possible." 

It  is  not  to  be  thought  that  pasteuriza- 
tion will  excuse  the  use  of  old  or  unclean 
milk.  The  process  is  to  be  applied,  not 
to  correct  known  conditions  of  an  ob- 
jectionable character,  but  simply  as  a 
measure  of  safety  against  unknown 
dangers. 

Reverting  to  the  personal — don't  you 
think  it  would  be  worth  your  while  to 
take  a  careful  look  at  the  man  who  serves 
your  milk,  at  his  clothing,  and  hands? 
Or  to  drop  in  at  the  distributing  station, 
and  see  how  the  milk  is  transferred  from 
cans  to  bottles?  Or  even,  perhaps,  to 
make  a  visit  to  the  dairy  farm  from 
whence  the  milk  comes?  If  the  farm 
will  bear  inspection,  the  owners  will  be 
glad  to  have  you  look  it  over ;  if  it  will 
not,  surely  you  don't  wish  to  continue 
your  patronage. 

Or  perhaps  you  keep  a  cow  yourself? 


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51 

THE  KIND  OF  BARN  YOUR  DAIRY  SHOULD  HAVE 


NURSERY    SCREENS 


455 


How  about  it,  and  its  stable?  Do  you 
brush  her  before  milking,  and  thoroughly 
wash  the  udder;  and  do  you  know  her 
to   be    free    from    disease?      You    could 


contract  disease  from  your  own  milk  just 
as  readily  as  from  that  bought  from  a 
neighbor,  or  from  a  dairy,  you  know. 


Nursery  Screens 

By  Frances  Sheafer  Waxman 


EVERY  nursery  needs  a  screen ; 
at  least  one.  It  is  as  necessary 
an  article  of  furniture  as  the 
little  bed  itself,  and  as  the  little  beds 
multiply,  so  may  also  the  screens,  with 
just  so  much  additional  comfort  to  the 
mother.  Unfortunately  nursery  decor- 
ators and  designers  have  not  yet  given 
the  screen  for  the  child's  room  sufficient 
thought.  The  baby's  toilet  stand  and 
crib  have  been  treated  with  charming 
consideration,  but  the  baby  usually  has 
to  content  himself  with  a  nondescript 
screen,  one  that  has  no  age  nor  sex. 

The  thoughtful  mother,  however,  can 
supply  this  deficiency  in  the  screen 
market  and  create  a  screen  for  the  child- 
ren's room,  which  will  look  as  if  it  were 
really  made  to  minister  to  the  needs — 
and  interests — of  childhood.  The  con- 
struction of  a  screen  is  not  necessarily 
a  task  requiring  specialized  training. 
Unstained  screen  frames  made  of  "white 
wood"  can  be  bought  at  most  depart- 
ment stores.  Such  a  frame,  together 
with  some  tacks,  a  hammer,  and  what- 
ever material  is  decided  upon  for  cover- 
ing, are  the  only  special  equipments — • 
besides  ingenuity  and  interest — essential 
to  the  operation  of  home  screen-making. 
If  the  stock  screen  frames  are  not  found 
sufficiently  varied  as  to  shape  and  size, 
a  carpenter  may  be  inveigled  into  build- 
ing a  frame  of  the  required  proportions. 
These  every  mother  can  decorate  accord- 
ing to  her  individual  want. 

The   stock   screen    frames   vary    from 


No.  1 

about  four  to  six  feet  in  height.  Some 
of  them  are  made  with  panels  having 
square  corners,  and  others  have  the 
two  side  frames  designed  with  rolling, 
curved  tops.  It  is  sometimes  possible  to 
buy  these  two  side  panels  without  the 
central  square  one.  The  two-wing 
screen,  thus  made,  may  be  useful  in 
hiding  a  corner  wash-stand,  where  a 
three-wing  screen  would  be  too  bulky 
and  cumbersome.  Three  wings,  however, 
is  the  normal  construction  for  screens. 
Of  the  three-screen  designs,  reproduced 
with  this  writing,  each  represent  a  type 
that  can  be  either  elaborated  upon  or 
simplified.      No.    1    has   a   wide   outside 


456 


THE    BOSTON     COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


NW^*^ 


.?      V     ^    ^         ^*        ^       f      - 


frame  with  set-in  panels.  This  screen 
is  more  effective,  covered  with  either 
burlap  or  canvas,  both  materials  being 
•now  manufactured  for  decorative  pur- 
poses in  excellent  shades.  The  panels 
may  be  decorated  with  any  desired  de- 
sign. The  one  suggested  here  is  ar- 
ranged primarily  to  demonstrate  a  twine 
applique,  very  much  the  vogue  just  at 
present  in  France.  Ordinary  undyed 
twine  is  used  both  for  outlining  and  for 
filling  in  the  leaf  forms.  The  ground 
is  usually  burlap  in  its  natural  color,  and 
this  range  of  tans  in  the  twines  and  the 
jutes  is  very  effective. 

For  a  child's  room,  the  panels  of  such 
a  screen  may,  of  course,  be  filled  in  wdth 
decorative  subjects  fitting  a  child's  fancy. 
Some  of  the  larger  animal  and  flower 
forms,  in  the  prints  and  cretonnes  made 
for  nursery  hangings,  can  be  cut  out  and 
applied  with  twine  outlines  to  a  canvas 
or  a  burlap  ground.  The  decorated 
panels  are  stretched  on  light  frames  such 
as  artists  use  for  stretching  canvas.  The 
outside   frame   is   covered   with   material 


of  a  darker  or  a  contrasting  tone;  the 
panels  are  inserted,  and  the  back  of  the 
screen  is  then  covered  neatly  and 
smoothly  over  the  whole  surface,  with 
one  or  the  other  of  the  two  materials 
used  on  its  face.  Small  upholsterer's 
tacks  with  flat  heads  can  be  used  to 
fasten  the  coverings  to  the  wooden 
frame. 

The  screen  marked  No.  2  is  rather 
more  elaborate  in  construction,  and  will 
require  some  special  carpentering,  in 
order  to  have  the  little  pictures  at  the 
top  fitted  into  the  screen  frame.  The 
screen  itself  is  a  stock  frame,  and  it  can 
be  covered  either  with  an  English  chintz 
or  an  unglazed  oilcloth.  In  the  screen 
of  the  illustration,  the  frames  both  of  the 
pictures  and  the  screen  proper  are  sug- 
gested in  white,  an  enamel  finish.  The 
cover  material  has  a  white  ground  with 
a  small  floral  repeat  in  colors.  The 
prints  used  in  the  supplementary  panels 
are  leaves  from  one  of  the  attractive 
children's  calendars  in  color.  They  are 
mounted  in  flat  mattes  of  unglazed  oil- 
cloth, and  then  varnished  to  make  them 
dust  proof.     They  could  be  covered  with 


No.  3 


NURSERY    SCREENS 


457 


glass,  but  since  glass  adds  to  the  screen's 
weight,  the  varnishing  process  is  prefer- 
able. A  carpenter  can  make  the  print 
frames  of  the  same  wood  as  the  rest  of 
the  screen ;  or  they  may  be  had  of  a 
frame  maker.  The  prints  are  best 
mounted  and  framed  by  a  picture  f ramer, 
for  they  are  most  effective,  if  they  are 
mounted  double,  with  a  print  on  each 
side,  so  that  the  finished  screen  has  no 
reverse.  Such  an  arrangement  calls  for 
more  technical  skill  than  the  average 
home  worker  possesses.  There  is  a  very 
wide  range  of  subjects  possible  for 
screen  pictures,  but  it  is  well,  in  selecting 
them,  to  make  their  colors  harmonize 
with  the  colors  used  in  the  screen  folds. 

While  the  construction  of  this  screen 
is  somewhat  complicated,  it  is,  when 
done,  a  very  handsome  article  of  furni- 
ture, and  it  is  quite  possible  to  make  it 
of  materials  that  will  be  durable  enough 
to  last  until  the  children  have  outgrown 
nursery  days. 

Screen  No.  3  is  the  simplest  of  this 
series  to  make.  The  frame  is  the  stock, 
square-cornered,  five-foot,  paneled  ''white 
wood"  skeleton.  The  foundation  is  en- 
tirely a  matter  of  discretion.  It  may 
be  rep,  chints,  cretonne,  burlap  or  bro- 
cade. The  extra  decoration  is  a  good 
pictorial  wall-paper  frieze.  For  use  in 
this  fashion  it  is  well  first  to  mount  the 
paper  on  a  coarse  cheesecloth,  covering 
the  back  with  a  thin  flour  paste,  exactly 
as  if-  the  paper  were  to  be  hung  on  a 
wall.     This  will  prevent  the  paper  from 


warping  and  "buckling"  with  the  changes 
of  the  weather.  For  further  preserva- 
tion, the  paper  may  be  given  a  thin  coat 
of  white  shellac  varnish,  thereby  render- 
ing the  surface  dust  proof.  This  pro- 
ceeding does  not  effect  the  colors;  it 
rather  preserves  their  freshness,  and  pre- 
vents them  from  fading.  The  smaller 
bands,  outlining  the  frieze  and  appearing 
again  at  the  bottom  of  the  screen,  may 
be  made  of  paper  or  of  a  heavier  ma- 
terial  like  upholsterer's  guimp. 

Since  there  are  very  many  excellent 
pictorial  friezes  made  for  children's 
rooms,  the  choice  of  a  decoration  for  such 
a  screen  as  this  is  wide.  If  service  is 
the  only  requirement,  this  particular 
screen  can  be  made,  for  a  trifling  cost, 
of  turkey  red  calico,  the  bands  being 
strips  cut  from  the  borders  of  Russian 
print  aprons.  Two  aprons,  which  sell 
for  fifteen  cents  apiece,  will  furnish  this 
decoration,  and  the  left-over  centres 
may  then  be  utilized  to  make  cushion 
covers. 

In  general,  it  is  well  to  keep  the  other 
decorations  of  the  nursery  in  mind  when 
designing  and  constructing  a  nursery 
screen.  A  room,  in  which  the  decorative 
motives  give  the  impression  of  having 
been  selected  and  applied  with  discrim- 
ination and  good  judgment,  has  neces- 
sarily a  pleasant  and  soothing  effect  of 
harmony,  a  result  not  to  be  disregarded 
among  the  educational  and  formative  in- 
fluences surrounding  a  growing  child. 


It  Pays 

By  Ruth  Raymond 


It  pays  to  note  the  joyous  bird 
And  list  its  merry  strain, 
Until  the  heart  is  gently  stirred, 
And  thus   forgets  its  pain. 

It  pays  to  breathe  the   fragrance  sweet 
Of    dew-bespangled    flower 
That  blooms   in  beauty  at  our   feet — 
Contentment  is  its  dower. 


It  pays  to  sing  a  morning  song 
While  nature  is  so  fair, 
Forgetting   every   fancied  wrong, 
Forgetting  every  care. 

The  country-side  is  full  of  peace, 
God's  smile  is  on  the  land, 
That  all  our  blessings  may  increase, 
It  pays  to  understand. 


Madei 


eira 


By  Captain  John  Cushman 


SOUTH  of  the  transatlantic  path 
of  Mediterranean-bound  ocean- 
Hners,  there  lies  in  all  its  quaint 
picturesqueness  the  most  beautiful  of 
islands — Madeira.  This  name  is  sig- 
nificant to  the  traveller;  but  there  is  ex- 
quisite magic  in  the  mention  of  that 
world-renowned  port,  Funchal,  the 
famous  roadstead  and  town  of  this  en- 
chanting dot  in  the  sea. 

There  is  no  more  fascinating  time  to 
portray  your  arrival  under  the  legend 
haunted  hills  that  enfold  the. town  than 
at  sunrise,  when  the  growing  light  is 
dispelling  the  bluish,  mist-like  shadows 
from  buildings  and  foliage.  So  great  is 
the  transition  from  the  turbulent  seas 
without  into  the  placid  waters  of  the 
harbor  that  the  boat  seems  to  glide 
rather  than  steam  along.  Immediately, 
Funchal,  with  its  shipping,  lies  before 
you.  Apparently,  you  sail  within  a 
stone's  throw  of  the  pebbly  beach,  then 
you  hear  the  hoarse  rattle  of  chain  as 
the  anchor  is  dropped,  and  know  you  are 
at  Madeira.  From  off  the  mountain, 
green  with  verdure,  behind  the  city, 
comes  the  delightful  aroma  of  many 
blooms  and  the  smell  of  grapes — this  is 
the  Garden  Island  of  the  Portuguese 
group,  world-renowned  for  its  export 
trade  in  wines.  The  city  is  situated  at 
the  base  of  a  mountainous  range  of  hills, 
six  thousand  feet  in  height,  framing  a 
magnificent  harbor  that  has  made  Fun- 
chal famous  as  a  port  of  entry  for  all 
classes  of  ships,  great-  and  small,  from 
the  tramp  steamer  to  the  palatial  yacht. 

From  the  deck  of  your  steamer  you 
gaze  enraptured  upon  the  city,  in  its 
glory  of  morning  sunlight.  Above  you 
is  a  sky  of  wonderful  blue,  across  which 
fleecy  clouds  drift,  like  cotton  blossoms, 
before  the  gentle  trade  wind.  On  your 
left  is  Loo  Rock,  on  which  is  built  the 


fortress  that,  standing  defiant  as  the 
miniature  Gibraltar  of  the  port,  once 
played  an  interesting  role  in  our  coun- 
try's history;  for  it  was  here  that  the 
Alabama  received  her  guns  and  muni- 
tions of  war  from  British  ships.  Shore- 
ward, on  a  commanding  eminence,  your 
attention  is  attracted  to  an  old  citadel, 
whose  moss-grown  walls  bear  silent  wit- 
ness in  battered  masonry  to  the  assaults 
of  Time.  It  is  an  object  of  much  ad- 
miration and  interest,  a*nd  causes  not  a 
little  speculation  concerning  its  history, 
which  is  somewhat  uncertain.  On  guard 
at  the  right,  facing  shoreward,  is  another 
old  fortress,  less  pretentious,  but  not  less 
interesting  for  deserted  ramparts  that 
rise  almost  from  the  water. 

The  city,  with  its  snow  white  dwel- 
lings, and  its  population  of  20,000,  arises, 
seemingly,  tier  upon  tier,  to  the  very 
summit  of  the  hills.  The  red  tile  roofs 
of  prosperous  merchants,  in  the  fresh- 
ness of  the  morning  dew,  scintillate  in 
the  sunshine  not  unlike  the  rare  old  vint- 
age of  the  island.  This,  in  fascinating 
contrast  to  the  green  of  many  flourishing 
vineyards  and  dense  tropical  foliage, 
gives  to  you  your  first  and  most  lasting 
impression   of   Madeira. 

Your  attention  is  diverted  for  the  time 
being  from  further  meditation  by  the 
numerous  boats  that  swarm  around  the 
ship's  gangways,  manoeuvred  by  strong- 
armed  native  oarsmen,  each  in  frantic 
effort  to  secure  the  first  consignment  of 
passengers  for  the  shore;  while  numer- 
ous other  craft  appear  filled  with  men 
and  women  attired  in  gaudy  raiment, 
shouting  in  native  jargon,  and  urging 
you  to  buy  of  their  variety  of  fruits  and 
wares.  When  you  stand  at  length  on 
the  old  stone  quay,  you  are  greeted  by 
an  orderly  and  interesting  group  of 
Islanders,   and   not   unlikely,   also,   by   a 


458 


THE  ISLAND  OF  MADEIRA 


459 


few  Germans  and  English  who  have 
been  lured  from  the  neighboring  coffee 
houses  by  the  announcement  of  a  pas- 
senger ship's  arrival. 

Coterminus,  with  the  quay  a  wide 
avenue,  lined  on  either  side  by  a  pro- 
digious growth  of  beautiful  tropical 
trees,  forms  a  shaded  archway  that 
sweeps  in  majestic  contour  to  a  little 
park.  From  this  avenue  radiates  the 
town.  At  the  head  of  the  quay  canopied 
sleds  wait  to  transport  you  to  whatever 
part  of  the  town  you  wish;  each  is 
drawn  by  a  pair  of  young  bullocks 
driven  by  a  barefoot  native,  with  a  pace- 
maker in  front  to  goad  them  on.  You 
soon  find  yourself  gliding  silently  over 
the  uneven  yet  neatly  paved  streets  of 
finest  cobblestones,  worn  smooth  by  this, 
their  principal  and  unique  form  of  trans- 
portation, which  is  really  as  much  of  a 
novel  feature  to  the  tourist  as  the  latest 
American  rig  would  be  to  the  native  of 
Madeira.  Only  when  you  ascend  the 
mountain  to  your  hotel  or  villa  are  you 
privileged  to  choose  between  two  modes 
of  conveyance — one  being  the  Scenic 
Railway  and  the  other  a  hammock  slung 
on  a  pole  supported  on  the  shoulders  of 
two  lithe  and  stalwart  natives.  This 
latter  is  another  of  the  novel  and  enter- 
taining features  of  this  island  paradise. 
But  the  return  is  still  more  of  a  surprise. 
It  is  made  on  sleds  with  fleet-footed 
native  runners  on  either  side,  who  guide 
them  in  their  terrific  pace  by  stout 
leathern  straps.  The  descent  is  most 
thrilling  and  interesting. 

There  are  two  excellent  hotels.  The 
Reids,  located  most  ideally  and  con- 
spicuously, has  the  less  obstruction  of 
view  both  of  harbor  and  ocean,  and  is 
the  one  building  on  the  island  that  in  any 
way  resembles  our  American  architec- 
ture. Both  hotels  are  popular  in  winter, 
being  patronized  by  many  distinguished 
tourists  from  the  United  Kingdom  and 
Continent,  who  stimulate  social  life  very 
materially,  giving  to  the  island  a  notable 
prestige  in  this  particular. 


While  in  Funchal  you  will  be  amply 
repaid  for  a  visit  to  the  vineclad  vaults, 
down  ragged  stone  steps  chiselled  deep 
on  the  mountain  side,  where  lie  buried, 
tier  upon  tier,  wine  pipes  filled  with  the 
famous  vintage  of  the  island,  the  product 
of  from  one  to  forty  years.  The  wine 
industry  has  continued  in  Madeira  since 
the  days  of  the  original  settlers  and 
native  wine  merchants,  the  Portuguese. 
And  the  delightful  flavor  and  sparkling 
effervescence  of  the  Madeira  vintage  has 
given  it  world-wide  precedence,  since  the 
time  of  the  fame  of  the  first  buccaneers. 
Morgan  and  Kidd,  who  frequently 
sought  the  island  to  find  solace  in  their 
cups  from  the  more  active  diversion  of 
pillaging  and  plundering  richly  laden 
merchantmen  on  the  high  seas. 

There  is  something  of  consequential 
interest  daily,  whether  pushing  your  way 
through  the  labyrinth  of  congested  streets 
among  the  crowded  little  shops,  stuffy 
with  their  native  wares,  or  whiling  away 
a  happy  hour  either  in  the  Plaza  or  the 
Consul's  Garden.  Both  are  havens  of 
peacefulness  in  a  bower  of  tropical 
plants.  The  temperature  never  fluctu- 
ates beyond  seventy-four  degrees  the 
^entire  day. 

It  must  be  remembered  also  that  Fun- 
chal is  famous  for  its  rare  embroidery, 
and  every  woman  visitor  avails  herself 
of  the  opportunity  to  purchase  some  of 
the  exquisite  and  dainty  pieces  of  handi- 
work at  the  Madeira  House ;  one  need 
not  be  surprised  to  learn  that  a  great 
many  of  the  most  expensive  English  and 
French  gowns  are  sent  here  to  have 
worked  upon  them  the  design  that  place 
their  market  value  in  close  estimate  with 
South  African  gems. 

After  the  day's  pleasing  events  you  sit 
upon  the  piazza  of  your  hotel  breathing 
the  fragrant  atmosphere,  and  gazing  in 
rapturous  fascination  upon  the  beautiful 
panorama  at  your  feet.  Far  out  across 
the  sea,  to  the  north  and  the  east,  your 
vision  becomes  riveted  upon  what  re- 
sembles   a    blue    cloud    on    the    distant 


460 


THE    BOSTON    COOKL\G-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


horizon — Porto  Santos  Island — and  the 
sight  recalls  to  you  that  great  event  of 
the  fifteenth  century,  the  discovery  of 
America  by  Columbus.  For  it  was  on 
this  lonely  isle  that  he  spent  two  years 
in  dreaming  and  mapping  out  his  plans 
of  voyaging  in  quest  of  new  lands,  and 
a  path  around  the  globe. 

As  the  sun  slowly  sinks,  gloriously 
radiant,  and  the  soft  shades  of  twilight 
mount  up  the  sky  from  the  east,  your 
eyes  discover  another  islet  across  a  wide 
expanse  of  sea,  where  the  very  water 
seems  to  be  on  fire,  westward,  the  little, 
lonely,  unfrequented  island  of  St. 
Mary's,  where  history  claims  that 
Columbus    stopped    for   worship   on    his 


first  long  voyage. 

You  will  linger  on  the  veranda,  until 
the  last  faint  strains  of  music  from  the 
band  playing  in  the  Plaza  come  wafted 
to  your  ears  in  the  stillness  of  the  night. 
By  this  time  the  sky  has  become  a  dark 
canopy,  faintly  blue  in  the  light  of  the 
myriads  of  brilliant  stars  under  which 
Madeira  sleeps.  Perhaps,  also,  a  pale 
crescent  of  the  moon  will  have  risen  as 
out  of  the  sea,  to  shed  its  beams  over 
the  rippling  waters  like  so  many  dancing 
minarets ;  anyway  the  lights  of  the  town 
will  have  disappeared,  one  by  one,  and 
Funchal  lies  in  utter  quiet  and  darkness 
for  the  few  remaining  hours  of  night. 


A  Plea  for  the  Enthusiastic  Home  Woman 


Bv  Bertha  Comins  Elv 


IN  these  days  we  hear  a  great  deal 
about  the  force  and  enthusiasm  of 
the  club-woman,  and  we  find  the 
same  spirit  manifested  by  those  women 
who  study  for  the  professions  and  other 
paths  of  public  life,  as  well  as  those 
who  lecture  or  read  before  large  audi- 
ences or  to  an  invited  few.  In  fact,  most 
women  to  whom  a  generous  income  is 
assured,  either  by  their  husbands  or 
otherwise,  are  doing  something  outside 
the  home  that  vastly  interests  them.  In- 
deed, the  woman  who  is  mentally  and 
financially  able  to  devote  herself  to 
public  matters,  and  still  puts  them  largely 
aside  for  the  study  of  home  interests 
and  those  of  her  growing  children,  is 
something  of  a  back  number,  and  quite 
out  of  fashion.  This  has  come  about 
largely  from  the  great  and  new  oppor- 
tunities open  to  women,  and  as  they 
enter  into  one  interest  after  another 
outside  the  Home,  their  time  is  more 
and  more  occupied  to  the  exclusion  of 
what  should  be  their  chief  interest. 
A  bright  and  capable  woman  is  wanted 


everywhere.  She  is  put  at  the  Jiead  of 
one  department  and  then  another,  on 
this  committee  and  on  that,,  until  she 
really  has  more  to  do  than  she  can  do 
well.  Her  enthusiasm  carries  her  for- 
ward, as  plans  enlarge  and  multiply,  the 
success  of  one  undertaking  alluring  her 
on  to  still  greater.  In  the  meanwhile, 
what  share  do  the  children  have  in  all 
this  work  and  endeavor?  "They  are  all 
right,''  one  may  say:  "They  are  cared 
for,  or  are  old  enough  to  care  for  them- 
selves." Is  this  really  true?  Paid  care- 
takers do  not  in  all  cases  teach  their 
charges  the  best  things.  Even  when  they 
do,  the  child  really  needs  the  mother, 
and  the  mother,  the  child,  so  that  they 
may  grow  to  see  through  each  other's 
eyes;  on  the  one  hand,  to  accept  the 
guidance  unquestionably,  and,  on  the 
other,  to  be  a  truly  wise  and  helpful 
companion. 

It  certainly  is  delightful  for  a  child 
returning  from  school  to  find  mother, 
and  to  have  her  sufficiently  at  leisure  to 
enter  into  his  little  plans.     Then   is  the 


PLEA  FOR  THE  ENTHUSIASTIC   HOME  WOMAN 


461 


time  to  do  something  together  that  has 
been  waiting  for  just  such  co-operation. 
The  planting  of  the  winter  bulbs,  for 
instance,  the  blossoms  to  be  watched  for 
with  great  expectation  and  eagerness,  fol- 
lowed by  greater  enjoyment,  because 
both  have  shared  in  the  potting  and  plant- 
ing. Surely  that  mother  has  a  greater 
hold  on  her  children,  and  is  a  far  more 
comfortable  and  companionable  parent, 
than  one  who  is  always  busy  or  rushed. 
But  the  home-coming  from  school  is  at 
the  very  hour  when  most  mothers  have 
a  long  list  of  engagements.  That  is  the 
time  for  lectures,  musicales,  teas,  as  well 
as  committee  meetings ;  and  is  one  to 
shut  herself  away  from  these  things 
that  stand   for  progress? 

I  would  not  plead  for  the  children  to 
monopolize  over  much  of  a  mother's 
time ;  that  would  be  going  too  far  in  the 
other  direction,  but  for  the  enthusiasm 
to  be  first  for  and  with  them,  and  for 
fairs  and  clubs  afterwards.  Why  not 
let  the  women  who  have  no  children,  or 
whose  children  are  grown,  turn  their 
attention  especially  to  Civil  Service  Re- 
form, Play-gardens,  and  kindred  inter- 
ests, relieving  the  mother  of  growing 
children  of  those  tasks? 

Where  the  heart  is,  there  the  thoughts 
may  be  found  also.  The  enthusiastic 
home-woman  is  wide  awake  to  all  home 
interests,  putting  into  the  round  of  over- 
sight the  same  vim  that  she  would  in 
planning  a  Japanese  tea,  or  in  entertain- 
ing a  celebrity.  She  not  only  has  com- 
petent assistance,  but  sees  that  they  do 
their  work  well,  suggesting  here,  im- 
proving there.  She  keeps  in  touch  with 
the  machinery,  and  if  the  must-be's  press 
too  heavily  on  some  days,  she  herself 
takes  time  to  relieve  the  pressure,  thus 
getting  vitally  near  the  workings  of  the 
household  and  better  understanding  how 
to  give  the  needed  orders. 

It  seems  to  me  that  the  much  talked  of 
servant  question  would  in  a  large  meas- 
ure be  solved,  if  the  home-makers  would 
bend  all  their  enthusiasm  towards  doing 


so.  If,  instead  of  issuing  iron-clad 
orders  from  a  distance,  those  in  authority 
would  go  nearer  to  the  heart  of  things 
with  kindness,  the  servant's  point  of 
view  might  be  understood.  There  is 
always  much  less  friction  when  the 
master  workman  understands  his  men, 
and  the  men,  in  turn,  make  the  master's 
interests  theirs,  and  are  in  sympathy 
with  him.  One  might  be  a  little  slower 
to  have  guests  on  the  busiest  days  and 
then,  after  a  strenuous  week  or  two  of 
entertaining,  a  welcome  holiday  could  be 
planned  for  the  servants,  to  equalize 
pleasures  a  bit,  and  restore  the  nerves. 

The  little  things  that  make  for  com- 
fort in  the  home  come  to  the  person  at 
leisure,  as  they  never  do  or  can  when 
the  mind  is  filled  with  pressing  and  dis- 
turbing outside  demands.  If  the  mother 
is  busy,  when  the  children  come  in,  over 
something  she  is  able  to  put  aside,  she 
can  make  one  more  in  a  game  or  frolic, 
and  she  gets  much  nearer  to  her  dear 
ones,  and  knows  better  how  to  suggest 
to  them  and  guide  them.  I  have  heard 
of  one  mother  who  made  it  her  practice 
to  sew  near  a  certain  window  under 
which  her  little  boy  played  oftentimes 
with  his  companions.  In  that  way  she 
learned  of  their  speech  and  actions.  The 
children  knew  she  was  there  and  often 
consulted  her  or  referred  to  her  for 
advice. 

The  mother  is  indeed  blessed  who  has 
health  and  strength  suf^cient  to  enter 
into  golf,  tennis  and  dancing  with  those 
growing  up  around  her,  for  the  com- 
panionship is  of  incalculable  value  on 
both  sides. 

In  many  homes  the  breakfast  is  early^ 
the  dinner  late,  and  the  head  of  the 
household  is  away  at  noon;  when  is  he, 
then,  to  enjoy  his  children  and  get  near 
to  them,  if,  evening  after  evening,  at  the 
dinner  hour  there  are  guests  and  the 
children  are  excluded?  Or,  if  the  parents 
dine  away  from  home,  and  in  many 
households  this  is  the  rule?  When  the 
many  absorbing  engagements  for  profit, 


462 


THE    BOSTOX    COOKING-SCHOOL    :MAGAZIXE 


culture,  ambition  or  pleasure  make  the 
whole  trend  of  life  one  for  outside, 
then  the  home  worries  that  should  be 
trifles  take  on  enormous  size,  and  con- 
sequently the  whole  household  is  out 
of  tune. 

There  are  so  few  years,  at  best,  in 
which  to  enjoy  childhood,  that  it  seems 
as  though  ever)'  mother  should  regard 
with  a  jealous  eye  any  person  or  en- 
gagement that  takes  her  precious  respon- 
sibility from  her. 

Then  there  is  another  matter  that  eats 
away  the  leisure  and  fills  the  life  with  an 
undercurrent  of  dissatisfaction  and  rest- 
lessness, namely,  the  tr}-ing  to  keep  up 
appearance  beyond  one's  means.  Why 
not  think  in  thousands  or  hundreds,  if 
that  is  one's  income,  instead  of  millions, 


like  our  summer  neighbors,  perhaps  ? 

Better  the  gown  without  the  extra 
frills  than  the  loss,  for  instance,  of  a 
tramp  with  one's  boy.  The  extra  touch 
often  comes  too  high,  as  delightful  as  it 
may  look  to  others. 

Is  it  not  time,  then,  to  have  the  pendu- 
lum swing  back  a  little? 

Let  the  women  who  really  have  leisure 
for  it  fill  the  strenuous  public  places, 
whether  it  be  for  honor,  position,  or 
money.  Those  others,  whose  lives  are 
full,  without  going  far  afield,  not  only 
may  be  contented,  but  may  realize  that 
they  are  doing  even  more  than  their 
public  sisters,  in  filling  the  many  posi- 
tions that  a  home-making  woman  has 
an  opportunit}-  to  fill  with  grace  and 
charm,  as  well  as  with  masterly  ability. 


Dumas  and  Neapolitan  Macaroni 


By  Helen  Campbell 


THAT  Dumas  had  lived  for  five 
years  in  Italy  seemed  to  his  old 
friends  in  Paris  surely  that  he 
must  know  precisely  the  best  methods 
of  cooking  macaroni,  but  though  written 
to  many  times  for  recipes  he  preserv^ed 
silence,  answering  every  question  but 
this  fully  and  promptly.  Years  later,  in 
a  dozen  or  more  discursive  pages,  he 
gave  his  reasons  for  this  silence,  and  the 
final  breaking  of  the  vow  he  appears  to 
have  made  after  his  first  dish  of  maca- 
roni served  to  him  in  Naples. 

"How  should  I  know  the  first  word  of 
any  receipt?"  he  said  both  to  inquirers 
and  wrote  over  and  over  in  his  journal 
of  daily  events.  'They  torment  me  for 
receipts  for  cooking  macaroni.  As  for 
me  I  detest  it.  It  requires  a  sense  which 
m  me  is  totally  lacking,  ^ly  first  mouth- 
ful was  enough.  Xothing  could  induce 
me  to  tr}-  a  second.  So  as  I  did  not 
like  it  why  should  I  concern  myself  as 
to  methods  with  it?"    But  thev  tormented 


me  till  at  last  I  asked  Rossini.  He.  it 
was  said.  ofiFered  to  his  friends  the  best 
macaroni  in  X'aples.  I  confided  to  him 
that  his  receipt  would  make  me  happy, 
and  he  wrote  me  the  most  charming  of 
letters,  in  w^hich  I  was  invited  first  to 
eat  it  at  his  table,  then  to  receive  the 
receipt.  But  unhappily  his  keen  eyes  saw- 
that  I  did  not  eat  the  contents  of  my 
plate,  and  he  supposed  me  angr\^  at  being 
compelled  to  be  helped  like  the  others. 
My  plate  was  taken  away,  nor  could  I  by 
any  asking  obtain  another.  Then  I  an- 
nounced to  him  that  his  reputation  was 
gone.  It  was  not  he  who  cooked  it,  or 
had  the  receipt,  but  his  cook.  As  to  this 
we  were  disputing,  when  the  door  opened 
and  there  entered  the  Marquis  del  Grillo, 
known  to  all  as  the  husband  of  Madame 
Ristori.  I  saw  in  him  a  deliverer,  and 
stretched  out  my  arms.  'Do  you  know 
how  to  cook  macaroni?'  I  said.  'X^ot  at 
all,'  he  replied,  'but  my  w^ife  has  heard 
of  vour  desire.    Dine  with  us  to-morrow 


DUMAS  AND  NEAPOLITAN  MACARONI 


463 


and  you  shall  test  our  macaroni.  You 
shall  take  it  from  the  casserole  in  which 
she  herself  has  prepared  it,  a  far  finer 
thing  than  Rossini  knows.'  This  I  did 
the  next  day.  Madame  was  at  work. 
She  was  just  putting  macaroni  in  the 
saucepan,  and  I  watched  every  detail  of 
the  preparation.  And  now  I  state  it,  the 
true,  the  only  receipt  for  Neapolitan 
macaroni. 

''Suppose,  then,  that  you  wish  dinner 
at  six  o'clock,  for  twelve  people.  Then, 
at  eleven  in  the  morning  assemble  four 
pounds  of  soHd,  lean  beef,  one  pound  of 
well-smoked  raw  ham,  four  pounds  of 
tomatoes,  four  large  white  onions,  with 
thyme,  bay-leaves,  parsley,  and  a  little 
olive  oil.  Cook  all  together,  stirring 
carefully  at  times,  for  three  hours.  At 
this  point  pour  in  boiling  water,  until  of 
the  h^'ghest  part  of  the  beef  there  shows  no 
more  than  the  size  of  a  five  franc  piece. 
Now  boil  again  and  on  for  four  hours, 
the  cover  off  so  that  it  reduces  and  en- 
riches steadily.  Then  boil  the  macaroni, 
or  I  should  prefer  to  say  macaroncello, 
since  that  is  smaller,  and  the  best  that 
Naples  affords.  Much  water  is  neces- 
sary, well  salted.  From  time  to  time 
try  it.  Macaroni  that  is  cooked  too  much 
is  worthless.  If  you  fail  to  get  it  right 
twice,  the  third  time  you  will  know,  and 
thus  become  an  adept.  As  soon  as  you 
are  sure,  take  it  from  the  fire  and  pour 
into  the  boiling  water  some  cold  water 


that  it  may  not  boil  one  second  more. 
Then  place  it  in  a  sieve,  that  every  drop 
of  water  may  be  removed.  Have  your 
soup  tureen  at  hand  empty,  your  grated 
Parmesan  cheese  of  the  finest  quality, 
and  the  broth  or  meat  juice  reduced  and 
the  essence  of  all  that  has  gone  into  it. 
First,  then,  into  the  tureen  goes  a  large 
spoonful  of  the  grated  Parmesan,  spread 
over  the  floor  of  your  tureen.  On  this 
bed  of  cheese  you  arrange  a  bed  of 
macaroni.  On  the  macaroni  follows  a 
bed  of  meat  juice.  On  the  bed  of  meat 
juice  again  arrange  macaroni,  and  on 
that  a  bed  of  cheese.  Thus  it  goes  on 
till  the  tureen  is  filled.  Cover  it  then 
hermetically  for  ten  minutes,  no  more. 
Then  uncover  and  serve.  There  is 
silence  as  the  guests  eat.  They  are  con- 
tent. Even  I  who  had  loathed  macaroni 
know  that  in  this  way  it  is  for  the  gods. 
Try  each  .and  judge  if  this  be  not  so. 
Shall  I  say  this  is  Neapolitan  macaroni? 
I  know  not.  It  was  prepared  in  Naples, 
eaten  in  Naples,  adopted  in  Naples,  and 
thus  may  easily  be  termed  Neapolitan 
macaroni.  But  to  me  it  is  ever  the 
divine  Ristori's  method,  and  thus  I 
trouble  not  farther,  but  write  it  Macaroni 
a  la  Ristori.  The  glor>'  of  voice  or  of 
method  in  acting  is  one  glory,  but  I  count 
it  as  good  that,  also,  she  disdained  not 
to  prepare  with  her  own  hands  this  dish 
that  converted  me  and  holds  me  con- 
vert.    There  you  have  it." 


Bargain  Hunters 


By  Kate  Gannett  Wells 


BARGAINS  are  proverbially  irre- 
sistible from  mid-year  mark- 
downs  to  the  getting  the  better  of 
somebody  else  in  a  trade.  But  whether 
or  not  marked-down  articles  are  really 
cheaper  is  a  matter  for  individual  ex- 
perience  to   determine,    though   at   least 


the  conviction  that  one  has  got  a  bargain 
is  a  sedative  to  the  nervous  system. 
Wise  is  the  woman  who  does  all  her 
yearly  shopping  the  day  after  Christmas, 
and  does  not  haunt  the  stores  again  for 
another  twelvemonth. 

This  love  for  bargains,  a  commendable 


464 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


Yankee  trait,  has  much  to  do  with  other 
desirable  quaHties,  such  as  reticence  in 
speech  and  careful  provision  for  health. 
A  person  so  gifted  is  too  keen  in  self- 
interest  to  be  either  penurious  or  a 
''spendthrift  of  her  vitality."  Rather  is 
she  a  conservator  of  all  her  resources, 
knowing  how  to  get  the  maximum  of 
power  out  of  herself  by  the  re-action  of 
frequent  rests  from  expenditure  of 
energy,  physical  or  mental.  Such  a  per- 
son neither  loses  her  self-respect  by  let- 
ting herself  be  imposed  upon  at  shops, 
fairs  or  clubs,  nor  in  getting  what  she 
wants  does  she  ignore  the  arts  of  polite- 
ness, which  she  regards  as  "the  gracious 
abatement  of  her  absolute  rights." 

It  is  a  futile  fallacy  to  laugh  at  the 
bargainer  or  to  scorn  her  as  a  despicable 
human  being,  for  the  genuine  bargain- 
hunter  never  buys  on  the  score  of  cheap- 
ness alone,  but  because  possession  of  the 
article  will  accrue  in  some  way,  at  some 
time,  to  her  personal  advantage.  Of 
course  she  is  conscious  that  the  bargain 
is  a  compromise  between  the  seller  and 
herself,  which  she  justifies  on  the  ground 
that  ''no  great  alteration  in  human  affairs 
is  ever  achieved  without  compromise," 
a  saying  as  true  of  individuals  and 
faniilies  as  of  nations  and  dynasties.  She 
is  sensible  enough  to  realize  that,  just  be- 
cause she  is  astute  as  a  purchaser,  she 
must  be  amiable  and  charming,  that  the 
compromises  in  which  she  yields  some- 
what that  she  may  not  lose  all,  or  that  the 
bargains  she  has  acquired  do  not  bring 
upon  her  personal  animosity. 

From  making  bargains  over  counters 
it  is  easy  to  slide  into  making  bargains 
with  one's  self,  which  is  not  being 
straightforward  in  doing  what  is  right, 
but  keeping  on  the  edges  of  it.  One 
lowers  her  ideals  each  time  she  enters 
on  personal  bargains ;  unpunctual  to-day, 
because  she  will  be  punctual  to-morrow 
(which  she  will  not  be)  ;  uttering  in- 
nuendoes, because  they  are  not  veritable 
falsehoods;  neglecting  home  duties,  be- 
cause   of    social    service;    giving    hasty 


breakfasts,  because  she  will  prepare  an 
appetizing  noon  dinner,  but  putting  that 
off  against  "something  hot  for  supper," 
when  the  men  and  children,  not  having 
been  fed  right  along  properly,  are  too 
weary  to  eat.  The  self -bargainer  is  just 
a  plain  shirk,  meaning  well,  but  being 
inconstant,  inconsistent  and  evasive. 

It  is  cheering,  however,  to  find  that  a 
well  trained  bargain-hunter  considers  it 
beneath  her  dignity  to  conduct  a  trade 
with  her  conscience,  for  which  absten- 
tion she  finds  compensation  in  having 
enough  ability  to  make  the  best  of  a  bad 
bargain,  even  if  it  results  from  her  own 
inefficiency.  Vast  multitudes  of  women 
have  this  noble  knack  of  not  repining  at 
the  already  accomplished  and  inevitable, 
whether  it  be  of  failure  in  marriage,  in 
employment,  or  with  one's  self.  They 
never  lie  down  supinely  to  endure,  but 
are,  mind  and  body,  on  the  alert.  They 
train  themselves  to  look  on  the  bright 
side  of  the  worst,  and  to  alleviating  that 
worst  by  not  thinking  of  it  as  such. 

Another  valuable  peculiarity  of  the 
bargain-hunter  is  her  inclination  to  re- 
ticence. She  does  not  allow  herself  to  be 
carried  away  either  by  emotion  or  sur- 
prise, remembering  Talleyrand's  motto, 
''Messieurs,  point  de  zele,"  which  she 
Americanizes  as — go  it  slowly.  Besides 
she  knows  from  her  successful  silences 
that  Tennyson  was  right  when  he  said, 
"it  matters  very  little  what  we  say,  it  is 
how  we  say  it,  though  the  fools  don't 
know  it."  So  she  pays  much  attention 
,to  gaining  a  knack  of  manner  in  speech 
that  shall  enable  her  to  get  a  bargain 
without  an  embarrassing  conflict  of 
words  and  opinions. 

Perhaps  it  is  jealousy  that  leads  to  de- 
preciation of  the  worthiness  of  a  bar- 
gain-hunter. She  gets  what  some  one 
else  might  have  had.  Yet  that  is  the  way 
all  through  Hfe,  only  some  of  us  fail  to 
recognize  that  not  getting  what  we  want 
is  due  to  our  ignorance  or  shortsighted- 
ness. After  all,  the  accomplished  is  but 
recognition  of  the  truth  of  the  Shakes- 


THE  CALL  OF  THE   SOUTH 


465 


pearian  quatrain  anent  seizing  the  flood 
tide,  only  for  tide  read — bargain.  It  is 
quick  appraisal  of  values  that  makes  the 
diplomat  or  the  skilled  purchaser. 

All  the  same,  the  desire  for  bargains 
may  degenerate  into  a  craze,  with  wasted 
time  and  money  as  result.  To  many 
persons  the  temptations  of  an  auction 
room  are  only  less  harmful  than  the  be- 
witchments of  gambling.  But  because  a 
natural  desire  of  the  human  heart  can 
become  an  unnatural  passion  is  little 
reason  for  classifying  all  bargain-hunters 
as  sordid  or  treacherous.  Household 
economists  and  interior  decorators  should 
come  to  their  defence  and  testify  to  the 
reduced  family  expense  and  increased 
home  beauty  with  which  one  skilled  in 
purchasing  can  maintain  her  home  and 
dress  well  on  slight  expenditure.  Bar- 
gains are  always  relative  to  the  pur- 
chaser. Getting  what  one  can  never  use 
is  expensive.  Getting  anything  without 
relation  to  its  intrinsic  value  and  one's 


need  of  it,  merely  because  it  is  cheap,  is 
financial  folly,  and  has  brought  the  art  of 
bargaining  into  disrepute.  Especially 
one  must  be  an  expert  in  all  that  relates 
to  art,  in  order  to  prevent  imposition. 
It  is  knowledge,  special  and  varied,  and 
tact,  in  its  application,  that  lies  back  of 
every  successful  bargain. 

But  as  in  athletics  one  must  take  defeat 
well  in  order  to  be  "good  sport,"  so  in 
getting  bargains  one  must  know  how  to 
lose  with  good  grace  and  how  to  con- 
gratulate the  successful  bidder  against 
one's  self.  Harder  still  is  it  to  learn  to 
be  content  to  let  all  bargains  go  by,  be- 
cause one  has  not  means  to  buy  more 
than  from  hand  to  mouth.  Only  when 
honestly,  bravely,  skilfully  one  can  get  a 
bargain,  in  getting  what  one  wants  rather 
than  buying  it  at  a  high  price,  it  savors 
of  "industrial  efficiency"  to  do  so.  Also 
is  it  "social  service,"  since  one,  then,  has 
means  to  do  for  somebody  else  while  yet 
having  satisfied  one's  own  cravings. 


The  Call  of  the  South 


Bv  Olive  Grace  Bushnell 


Between  the  branches  of  the  giant  oaks 
Patches  of  deepest,  darkest  blue  are  seen, 
And  everywhere  the  mystic,  twinkling  stars 
Play  hide-and-seek  behind  the  leafy  screen. 
Above  them  all  the  softly  shining  moon 
Sheds  o'er  the  sleeping  world  her  misty  beams, 
Till  every  blade  of  grass  and  every  flower 
Seems    lost    in    the    sweet    revery    of    silver^' 
dreams. 


Among  the  bridges  and  the  silent  trees 
The  dark  lagoon  entwines,   securely  sleeping^ 
While  over  there  in  a  long  shadowy  line 
The  long-leafed  willows  bend,  forever  weep- 
ing ; 
And  rising  straight  and  stately  to  the  5k>- 
The  fronded  palms  stand  firmly  in  the  sod, 
Like  sentinels  put  there  to  carefully  guard 
The  wonder  beauties  of  Almighty  God. 


The  rich  majestic  sweetness  of  it  all, 
The  mingled  fragrance  of  jasmine  and  roses, 
Sinks  deep  into  the  heart  and  soul  of  man 
And  holds  him  to  this  golden  clime  enthralled ; 
Links  him  forever  to  this  glorious  land, 
Till,    no    matter    where    he    afterwards    may 

roam, 
The  paler  beauties,  fragile  greens,  seem  paltry, 
The  deeper  calmer  voice  of  Nature  calls  him 

home. 


The  Head  of  the  House 


By  Gertrude  Morrison 


M 


Y  dear,"  said  Mr.  Henry 
Forbes,  as  he  rose  from 
lunch,  "I  think  you  better 
telephone  Mrs.  Brant  that  you  will  not 
go  to  the  matinee  this  afternoon.  It's  a 
raw  day,  and  I  don't  like  that  cough  of 
yours." 

"Oh,  I  think  I'll  go,"  said  Mrs.  Forbes 
abstractedly,  turning  to  the  Women's 
Corner  in  the  paper  just  discarded  by 
him. 

"But,  Milly,  I  really  prefer  not  to 
have  you  go  out  until  your  cold  is  better." 

Mrs.  Forbes  aroused  herself  to  some 
show  of  interest  in  her  husband's  re- 
marks. "Why,  Henry,  this  cold  is 
nothing  at  all.  I've  had  many  a  worse 
one.  And  I  cannot  disappoint  Mrs. 
Brant.     Of  course  I'll  go." 

"No  you  won't,"  he  said,  not  un- 
kindly, but  in  a  tone  that  admitted  of 
no  further  dispute.  "I'm  head  of  this 
house,"  he  laughed,  stooping  to  kiss  her. 
"By  the  way,  Milly,"  he  called  back  from 
the  library,  "don't  let  me  forget  this  blue 
print,  when  I  run  over  to  see  Henshaw 
to-night.  It's  here  on  the  table."  A  few 
minutes  later  he  passed  the  house  with 
that  walk  of  unctious  suavity  possible 
only  to  a  much  married  man  who 
habitually  dines  well  and  "manages"  his 
wife. 

Mrs.  Forbes,  watching  him  from  be- 
hind the  curtains  of  the  library,  found 
in  his  urbanity  added  fuel  for  her  irrita- 
tion at  being  thwarted  her  afternoon's 
pleasure.  Nor  was  she  better  pleased, 
at  sight  of  the  blueprint,  over  the  pros- 
pect of  an  evening  alone.  She  turned 
away  with  a  frown,  and  listlessly  picked 
up  the  telephone  book.  "216-R.  Yes. 
Hello?  Is  this  you,  Mrs.  Brant?  This 
is  Mildred  Forbes.  I'm  so  sorry  to  dis- 
appoint you,  Mrs.  Brant,  but  I  have  such 
a  cold  that  Mr.   Forbes  thinks  I  better 


not  go  out  this  afternoon.  Yes,  he  takes 
very  good  care  of  me.  Yes,  indeed,  Mrs. 
Brant,  husbands  like  ours  are  rare.  No, 
of  course,  I  should  not  care  to  go  against 
his  wish.  It's  just  too  bad.  You  enjoy 
the  play  for  both  of  us,  Mrs.  Brant,  and 
then  run  in  soon  and  tell  me  about  it. 
Yes.     Good-bye." 

Scarcely  had  she  hung  up  the  receiver 
when  the  bell  rang.  "Hello.  No;  Mr. 
Forbes  left  only  a  few  minutes  ago. 
This  is  Mrs.  Forbes.  Oh,  yes.  Not  to 
forget  that  blueprint  when  he  goes  over 
to  see  you  to-night?  Yes,  I'll — oh  ! — Mr. 
Henshaw,  I'm  afraid  Mr.  Forbes  won't 
be  able  to  go.  No — ah — nothing  serious, 
nothing  at  all  serious,  but  the  night  air, 
you  know.  Is  it  very  important?  You 
would  not  mind  if  I  kept  him  at  home 
to-night?  Thank  you,  Mr.  Henshaw, 
then  I  don't  think  that  he  will  be  over. 
Good-bye." 

Mrs.  Forbes  ran  quickly  to  the  mirror 
of  the  sideboard  in  the  room  beyond, 
and,  stooping,  smiled  back  at  her  own 
excited,  flushed  face,  and  nodded  ap- 
proval at  the  determined  little  lines  to 
which  the  smile  gave  place.  She  hur- 
ried into  the  kitchen  to  enlist  her  maid's 
co-operation  in  the  plan  that  had  popped 
into  her  head  as  she  stood  at  the  tele- 
phone. "Annie,"  she  began,  "let's  make 
a  few  changes  about  dinner.  We  won't 
have  that  tapioca  that  was  left  over.  Mr. 
Forbes  doesn't  seem  very  keen  about  it, 
anyway.  I  tell  you,  I'll  come  out  my- 
self and  make  the  dessert — one  of  those 
rich  steamed  puddings  with  raisins  and 
spices  in  it,  and  plenty  of  wine  sauce. 
That's  Mr.  Forbes'  favorite  dessert. 
And,  Annie,  couldn't  you  make  some  of 
those  deHcious  biscuit  of  yours?  They 
would  be  so  nice  with  chicken  gravy. 
Mr.  Forbes  is  very  fond  of  them,  when 
you    bake    them.      Yes,    we'll    have    the 


466 


THE  HEAD  OF  THE  HOUSE 


467 


chicken  I  intended  for  to-morrow  night. 
Yes,  of  course,  it's  rather  upsetting,  but 
never  mind.  And,  Annie,  that  plaid  silk 
waist  of  mine  that  I've  been  wearing  all 
winter,  if  you  think  it  would  fit  your 
younger  sister — or,  possibly,  you  could 
do  something  with  it?  Oh,  not  at  all. 
It  was  too  funny,  Annie,  once  I  gave 
to  a  queer  bundle  of  a  scrub  woman 
some  of  my  clothes  that  I  had  outgrown. 
Mr.  Forbes  met  her  down  street  all 
decked  out  in  them.  He  was  so  mad. 
He  came  home  and  said,  'Milly,  if  you 
must  give  things  away,  for  goodness 
sake  find  somebody  who  will  look  like  a 
lady  in  them.'  So  you  see,  Annie,  you 
are  really  doing  me  a  favor.  Now  just 
start  the  chicken  right  away,  won't  you, 
Annie  ?" 

By  five- Mrs.  Forbes  had  her  pudding 
in  the  steamer,  and  was  taking  satisfied 
peeps  at  the  kettle  where  bubbled  the 
chicken.  Presently  she  slipped  upstairs, 
but  not  into  the  familiar  pongee,  which, 
because  of  its  ''tubbing"  qualities,  usually 
did  duty  as  her  everyday  dinner  frock. 
Instead,  out  from  its  tissue  folds  came 
a  filmy,  long-lined,  silver  grey,  rather 
new,  and  admired  by  Mr.  Forbes  be- 
cause its  chenille  fringe  danced  when  she 
moved. 

Mr.  Forbes,  his  face  the  picture  of 
health,  returned  about  six  with  a  good, 
keen  appetite,  and  sniffed  appreciably  at 
the  odor  that  greeted  him  when  he  opened 
the  front  door.  "Biscuit?  That's  good! 
Bless  us,  Milly,  how  fixed  up  you  are. 
Anyone  coming?  I  haven't  missed  a 
birthday,  or  an  anniversary,  have  I?  I 
tell  my  secretary  to  keep  me  jogged — 
pshaw !" 

Mrs.  Forbes  apparently  failed  to  notice 
her  husband's  slip,  so  absorbed  was  she 
in  an  anxious  scan  of  his.face.  "Henry," 
she  cried,  holding  him  off  at  arm's 
length  and  surveying  critically,  "you  are 
not  well?     Have  you  been  ill?" 

"Why,  no,"  he  said  in  surprise.  "I'm 
as  fit  as  can  be."  He  studied  his  face 
in  the  mirror  of  the  hall-rack  as  he  hung 


up  his  hat.  "I'm  a  bit  pale,  perhaps. 
Work,  my  dear!  You  women  that  sit 
around  at  home  all  day  have  no  idea 
how  we  fellows  grub  at  the  ofiice,  in 
order  to  buy  those  new  gowns  in  which 
you  so  delight.  And  this  dressing  to- 
night is  all  for  me?  Well,  it's  pretty, 
my  dear,  especially  those  velvet  strings, 
that  plush  fringe  business.  So  you  think 
I  don't  look  well?" 

Mrs.  Forbes  smiled  to  herself  as  she 
watched  her  husband  mount  the  stairs 
rather  more  slowly  than  was  his  custom. 
At  dinner  she  talked  away  cheerfully, 
and,  save  studying  him  anxiously  when- 
ever she  was  sure  that  he  was  looking, 
made  no  further  reference  to  his  health 
until  she  saw  that  he  was  about  ready 
for  a  second  biscuit.  "Henry,"  she  said, 
adroitly  drawing  the  plate  out  of  his 
reach,  "do  have  another  of  these  lovely 
biscuit — but  there!  what  am  I  thinking 
of  to  offer  you  nothing  but  hot  bread 
when  you  are  not  feeling  well.  Hot 
biscuits  are  so  bad  for  a  person.  I'll 
have  Annie  bring  in  some  bread  at  once. 
It's  a  little  bit  dry,  but  that  will  be  all 
the  better  for  you.  It  was  dreadfully 
stupid  of  me  not  to  think  of  it  before. 
And,  of  course,  you  wouldn't  mortify  me 
by  asking  for  something  that  was  not 
on  the  table.  You're  always  such  a  dear 
about  those  things,  Henry.  Maybe  that 
one  biscuit  has  already  given  you  a 
headache.    Does  your  head  ache,  Henry  ?" 

"Why,  it  does  feel  rather  queer,  Milly, 
now  you  speak  of  it.  But  I'm  sure  it's 
not  from  the  biscuit.  I  suppose  that  I 
have  been  doing  too  much  figuring  at 
night." 

Behind  her  napkin  Mrs.  Forbes  found 
relief  in  a  smile,  but  recovered  to  say 
with  the  utmost  gravity,  "I'm  sure  you 
do,  Henry.  You  must  just  stop  pouring 
over  those  horrid,  old,  headachey  blue- 
prints. I  don't  see  how  you  can  make 
anything  out  of  them,  anyway." 

The  next  arrow  she  let  fly  from  her 
shaft,  when  she  saw  that  her  husband 
was  about   ready   to  help  himself   to   a 


468 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


second  piece  of  chicken.  ''Why,  Henry 
Forbes,  you're  not  eating  a  thing.  I'm 
afraid  that  you  are  going  to  be  really 
ill.  I  insist  on  your  having  some  more 
of  this  chicken.  They  always  let  in- 
valids have  that.  I'm  sure  it  wouldn't 
hurt  you,  dear.  You  won't?  Well,  then 
I'll  ring  for  Annie,"  pushing  the  button, 
"and  have  her  bring  the  dessert.  Maybe 
that  will  tempt  you." 

Annie  was  in  the  room  before  Mr. 
Forbes  quite  understood  what  her  com- 
ing meant.  But  he  made  no  effort  to 
detain  the  chicken,  asking  languidly  in- 
stead, "What's  for  dessert,  Milly?" 

His  wife's  face  beamed  in  anticipation. 
"Your  favorite  kind,  Henry,  and  I  made 
it  myself,  all  thick  with  spices  and  raisins, 
and  wine  sauce — oh,  Henry !"  she  wailed, 
"you  won't  want  it  at  all.  That's  just  too 
bad.  I'm  so  disappointed.  Well,  never 
mind,  dear,  it  can  be  warmed  up  again. 
Annie,  bring  a  dish  of  that  tapioca  for 
Mr.  Forbes.  That  won't  hurt  your 
head,  Henry,  and  it  slips  down  so  easily. 
Does  your  throat  feel  queer,  Henry?" 

"Um— I— don't  know,  Milly.  Per- 
haps I  had  better  not  eat  anything  more. 
I  may  feel  better  if  I  don't.  No,"  de- 
cidedly, "you  need  not  have  Annie  bring 
that  tapioca,  thank  you." 

They  rose  from  the  table  and  passed 
into  the  library.  IMr.  Forbes  picked  up 
the  blueprint.  "Henry,"  his  wife  cried, 
"you're  not  even  thinking  of  going  over, 
to  the  Henshaw's  to-night?  You  said 
yourself  that  it  was  poring  over  blue- 
prints that  made  your  head  ache.  And 
now,  when  it's  aching  anyway — "  She 
passed  her  fingers  caressingly  across  his 
brow. 

Mr.  Forbes  lounged  into  a  big  leather 
rocker,  whose  springs  admitted  of  a 
soothing,  sidewise  wobble  in  addition  to 
its  forward  gait.  "Oh,  I  think  I'll  go, 
Milly." 

"Oh,  no,  Henry!  And  such  a  night 
as  this,  too!  Your  throat!  Think  of 
your  throat,  Henry." 

"Well,"  he  yawned,  rubbing  his  fore- 


head and  half  closing  his  eyes,  "I'll  lie 
down  a  little  while  first.  But  it  won't  do 
to  disappoint  Henshaw." 

"I'm  sure  that  he  will  not  expect  you 
in  such  weather.  You  must  not  stir  a 
foot,  Henry  Forbes.  When  a  man's  head 
of  a  house  he  ought — he  ought — to  take 
care  of  himself." 

The  pathetic  little  catch  in  his  wife's 
voice  caused  Mr.  Forbes  to  sit  erect  and 
say,  "That's  right,  Milly.  A  fellow's  a 
brute  to  badger  his  wife  and  run  risks 
for  himself  when  he  might  avoid  both 
by  just  staying  at  home.  I  won't  go, 
Henshaw  or  no  Henshaw." 

"Thank  you,  dear."  Mrs.  Forbes 
slipped  into  the  kitchen  under  pretext 
of  giving  Annie  some  further  instruc- 
tions. Returning,  at  sound  of  her  hus- 
band's voice,  she  halted  in  the  shadows 
of  the  dining-room.  "That  you,  Hen- 
shaw ?  This  is  Forbes.  Say,  I  won't 
be  over  to-night.  Yes — not  eating  as 
well  as  usual.  Oh,  nothing  much! 
Headache  and  sore  throat!  Beastly 
weather!  My  wife's  a  little  bit  nervous 
about  me,  and  I  thought  I'd  stay  at  home 
just  to  humor  her.  What's  that?  Oh! 
she  did,  did  she?  Mrs.  Forbes  said  just 
after  lunch  that  I  wouldn't  be  over  to- 
night? Oh — ah — certainly!  Mrs.  Forbes 
is  always  correct.  W^ell,  see  you  to-mor- 
row.    Yes.      Good-night." 

When  Mrs.  Forbes  ventured  to  appear 
from  behind  the  portieres  her  husband 
was  seemingly  absorbed  in  swaying  the 
rocker  gently  from  side  to  side.  Pres- 
ently he  looked  up  to  survey  her  with  a 
quizzical  twinkle  in  his  eyes,  which  she 
found  it  difficult  either  to  meet  or  to 
evade.  "My  dear,  he  began,"  you  cer- 
tainly do  look  stunning  in  that  gown. 
It  was  uncommonly  nice  of  you  to  put 
it  on  just  for  me.  And  would  you  mind 
doing  me  a  further  favor  by  trailing  the 
glory  of  it  into  the  kitchen  just  long 
enough  to  ask  Annie  to  put  some  more 
water  in  that  steamer?  I  think  you  said 
that  the  pudding  could  be  warmed  over. 
I'll  have  some  before  I  go  to  bed.     And 


OUR  FIRELESS  COOKER 


469 


tell  her  to  fix  up  a  plate  with  some  cold 
chicken  and — well,  not  stale  bread — a 
biscuit  or  two.  Nothing  Hke  feeding  a 
cold,  you  know !     And,  Milly,  if  there's 


a  matinee  on  for  to-morrow — of  course, 
you  know  better  how  you  feel  than  I  do 
— only,  as  head  of  the  house,  you  ought 
— you  ought — to  take  care  of  yourself." 


Our  Fireless  Cook 


er 


By  Madeleine  Burrage 


JIM  named  it.  He's  so  clever !  It 
really  seems  to  me  that  he's  the 
cleverest  man  I  know,  but  perhaps 
I'm  prejudiced,  for  he's  my  husband.  It 
isn't  really  one,  you  know ;  the  cooker, 
I  mean;  it's  just  our  nickname  for — 
But  I  must  tell  things  in  a  logical  order, 
'^ou  see  it  was  this  way.  Before  we 
were  married  and  while  we  were  fur- 
nishing the  house,  I  made  up  my  mind 
that  I  wanted  a  fireless  cooker.  I'd 
heard  so  much  about  popping  roasts — 
(well,  no,  I  guess  it  wasn't  roasts,  but 
things  to  boil ;  I  can't  think  of  the  name, 
it  certainly  isn't  boils!) — well,  popping 
things  in  and  then  just  going  off  and 
spending  the  afternoon,  without  any 
danger  of  the  dinner's  going  up  in  smoke, 
or  getting  sad  before  you  came  home 
because  the  fire  has  gone  out.  So  I 
thought  it  would  be  simply  ideal. 

But  after  we  had  bought  the  really 
necessary  things  we  felt  that  we  simply 
couldn't  afford  any  luxuries;  so  Jim 
promised  to  make  me  a  hay  box  after 
the  honeymoon,  and  he  did,  and  I  held 
the  nails  and  it  was  simply  perfect. 
Really,  though,  I  didn't  mind  them,  for 
the  stove  was  such  a  dear, — all  black  and 
shiny  and  altogether  a  perfect  love.  Jim 
says  no  stove  can  be  a  love,  but  this  one 
really  is.  And  as  for  the  cook  that  went 
with  it — well,  words  fail  me!  I  went  to 
interview  her  myself  and  she  was  so 
jolly  and  nice  that  I  never  dreamed  of 
any  trouble.  I  told  her  all  about  every- 
thing,— the  shiny  stove  and  the  fascinat- 
ing sauce-pans  and   the  dear  little  blue 


bowls  and — and  how  I  wanted  a  fireless 
cooker — and,  oh,  well,  about  everything. 
And  I  explained  to  her  how  we  wanted 
her  to  be  there  on  the  day  we  came  back 
(from  the  honeymoon,  I  mean)  and  have 
the  house  opened  and  a  nice  little  dinner 
ready  for  us,  and  she  said,  "Yes, 
Madam."  (It's  so  nice  to  be  called 
Madam.)  And  I  wondered  why  people 
had  so  much  trouble  with  their  cooks. 
If  you  only  manage  them  properly — 

That's  why,  after  those  arrangements, 
that  we  were  so  surprised  when  we 
drove  up  to  the  house,  after  the  honey- 
moon, to  find  it  still  and  dark,  and  look- 
ing as  if  no  one  had  been  in  it  for  weeks. 
The  only  reason  I  could  think  of  was 
that  Maggie  (she's  the  cook)  had  mis- 
taken the  date.  Then,  just  as  we  stepped 
into  the  hall,  there  came  the  most  awful 
crash  from  the  kitchen. 

I  grabbed  Jim's  arm  and  begged  him 
not  to  go  to  see  what  the  trouble  was, 
but  he  just  told  me  to  stay  where  I  was 
and  he  would  go  to  reconnoiter.  Then 
he  went  over  to  the  fireplace  and  picked 
up  the  poker,  our  new  brass  one. 

"Jim,"  I  fairly  screamed —  I  was  so 
afraid  he'd  go  before  I  could  say  a  word. 

"What's  the  matter?"  he  said,  turning 
round  and  looking  dreadfully  scared. 

"Don't  take  that,"  I  said,  "it's  the  one 
the  de  Forests  gave  us !" 

But  he  went  right  on  and,  of  course, 

I  went,  too,  for  I  just  couldn't  have  my 

husband  killed  alone.     We  went  out  into 

the  pantry,  Jim  took  a  firm  grasp  on  the 

(Continued  on  Page  XVIII) 


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THE 

BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary   Science    and    Domestic    Economics 
Janet    McKenzie    Hill,    Editor 

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A   NEW  VOLUME 

VT'  OU  will  find  in  this  ]\Iay  number 
a  Title  Page  and  Complete  Index 
of  volume  fifteen  of  the  Cooking- 
School  Magazine.  Many  people  are 
prizing  complete  sets  of  this  magazine. 
Each  volume  is  a  cook  book  in  itself, 
and  the  several  volumes  comprise  a  work 
of  reference  superior  to  anything  of  its 
kind  in  print.  Under  the  same  manage- 
ment and  editorship  the  periodical  has 
sustained  a  uniform  standard  of  quality 
and  excellence  from  its  first  issue  in 
1896.  It  has  become  an  acknowledged 
authority  in  culinary  matters  second  to 
none  other.  It  caters  strictly  to  the 
primary  wants  of  the  average  house- 
keeper and  the  general  welfare  of  the 
home.  Its  contents  are  original  and 
largely  the  result  of  long  experience  and 
daily  practice  in  housekeeping. 


Notice,  too,  that  the  advertising  pages 
are  in  perfect  keeping  with  the  reading 
matter,  and  the  special  motive  of  the 
magazine.  The  articles  represented  here 
are  invariably  of  high  grade,  appropriate 
to  the  situation  and  suitable  to  your  prac- 
tical needs  and  demands  as  housekeepers. 
From  time  to  time  every  item  will  be 
found  of  special  interest  and  concern  to 
the  home  maker. 

Beginning  with  our  June  issue  we  pro- 
pose that  volume  sixteen  shall  be  made 
not  only  to  maintain  the  standard  of  past 
volumes,  but  also  to  advance  that  stand- 
ard to  a  still  higher  degree  of  excellence. 
You  may  learn  to  depend  upon  the  self- 
dependent  COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE 
as  the  one  reliable  authority  in  all  mat- 
ters culinary  and  domestic  in  character. 

THE  WKY  OF  REFORM 

WE  need  all  possible  protection  from 
the  adulteration  of  food  products. 
This  much  can  not  be  denied  or  gain- 
said. At  the  same  time  much  that  is 
said  and  written  in  connection  with  the 
subject  of  impure  food  seems  nonsensi- 
cal and  sensational.  In  most  journalism 
some  fad  or  fancy  is  made  the  ruling 
feature  of  the  hour. 

From  time  immemorial  appetite  and 
experience  have  been  a  chief  reliance  in 
the  selection  of  food,  while  cleanliness, 
next  to  godliness,  has  ever  been  re- 
garded as  a  virtue;  and  this  doubtless 
will  continue  to  be  the  case.  We  want 
wholesome,  fresh  food  products  and  we 
want  intelligence  and  scrupulous  cleanli- 
ness in  the  preparation  and  service  of 
the  same.  A\'hatever  is  more  than  this 
may  savor  of  the  over  fastidious. 

However,  we  can  not  by  law  alone 
secure  either  temperance  or  cleanliness 
or  virtue.  These  are  matters  of  indi- 
vidual cultivation  and  concern.  When  a 
sufficiently  large  number  of  men  and 
women  become  abstemious  in  food  and 
drink,  intemperance  will  no  longer  rav- 
age the  land.  It  is  not  so  much  teinpta- 
tion    as    lack    of    wisdom    that    makes 


EDITORIALS 


471 


drunkards.  If  only  the  individual  would 
practice  total  abstinence,  the  saloon  would 
soon  go  out  of  business. 

Likewise,  in  city  and  town,  hygienic  and 
sanitary  environments  are  to  be  attained 
through  the  practice  of  habitual  cleanli- 
ness by  individuals  and  families.  In 
brief,  progress  is  made  in  any  direction 
through  persistent,  widespread  educa- 
tional campaigns.  Most  of  all  we  need 
intelligence.  "Knowledge  comes  but 
wisdom  lingers."  Does  not  the  way  of 
reform  lie  through  the  self-reformation 
of  the  individual? 

ELLEN   H.  RICHARDS 

MRS.  ELLEN  H.  RICHARDS 
died  in  Boston  on  March  30, 
after  a  week's  illness.  •  Mrs.  Richards 
was  born  in  1842.  She  was  a  graduate 
of  Vassar.  College  and  the  Institute  of 
Technology.  In  the  latter  institution 
she  has  held  the  position  of  instructor 
in  sanitary  chemistry  for  the  last  quar- 
ter of  a  century.  As  writer,  lecturer, 
teacher  and  educator  she  came  to  hold 
a  very  high  place  among  womeii  of  note. 
Mrs.  Richards  was  the  author  of  several 
books  on  domestic  science,  as  ''Home 
Sanitation,"  ''Sanitation  in  Daily  Life," 
"Eood  Materials  and  their  Adultera- 
tions," "The  Cost  of  Food,"  etc.  Some 
of  these  books  have  been  widely  circu- 
lated and  used  in  schools,  colleges  and 
women's  clubs.  She  must  be  regarded 
as  one  of  the  pioneers  or  originators  of 
the  modern  era  of  scientific,  sanitary 
living.  This  may  be  all  summed  up  in 
the  new  word,  coined  by  her,  euthenics, 
the  science  of  controllable  environment, 
or  the  art  of  right  living.  The  influence 
of  her  work  will  be  far-reaching  and  en- 
during. 

THE  TYRANNY  OF  DOING 

'  I  ^  HE   altruistic   principle   is    still   in 

A  the  experimental  stage.  Men  do 
not  yet  trust  themselves  or  their  neigh- 
bors, hence  the  haste,  the  scramble,  and 
the   rush.     In   the  early   history  of  our 


country,  for  example,  when  a  man  must 
hew  the  logs  for  his  own  house,  sink 
the  well,  clear  the  land,  and  keep  off 
foes,  human  and  otherwise,  surely,  if 
ever,  he  must  be 

"Up  and  doing, 
With  a  heart   for  any  fate; 
Still   achieving,   still   pursuing, 
Learn    to    labor   and    [not]    to   wait." 

That  is,  he  would  find  little  leisure  for 
waiting,  if  he  were  to  do  any  living  at 
all  in  a  world  that  was  all  strenuous 
preparation.  But  now,  after  the  soil, 
the  forests,  the  winds,  and  the  waters 
have  been  subdued  to  the  needs  of  man, 
now  in  the  twentieth  century,  why  all 
this  haste  and  rush,  all  this  speeding  up 
and  down?  "Is  it  necessary?"  asks  my 
soul.  And  I  answer  "No,"  by  all  that 
the  good  God  has  promised,  "No."  "In- 
dustry is  good:  idleness  is  bad,"  so  says 
the  proverb;  and  within  certain  limits 
who  shall  gainsay  it  ?  But  clearly  be- 
fore my  inward  eye  rises  a  picture  of  the 
modern  hurrying  man  or  woman,  per- 
haps particularly  of  the  woman,  who  is 
chained  down  to  no  specific  hours  or 
task.  You  will  meet  her  at  the  club 
and  in  the  church;  she  looks  from  her 
windows  at  your  comfortable  piazza  (if 
you  have  one).  If  you  drop  in  for  a 
quiet  afternoon  chat,  she  is  there ;  and 
she  teeters  'twixt  cup  and  door  as  she 
names  the  different  engagements  can- 
celled to  be  there.  She  is  always  just 
catching  a  train,  some  one  has  just  tele- 
phoned, she  must  finish  a  letter,  prepare 
an  essay  to  read  next  day,  or  keep  a 
theatre  appointment.  You  wonder  at 
her  strenuousness  and  marvel  at  your 
own  lack  of  engagements  and  appoint- 
ments. Surely  there  is  something  wrong 
with  you  or  her.  At  the  club  she  tells 
gaspingly  of  her  many  social  cares,  her 
charities,  and  the  like.  But  often,  al- 
ways, at  last,  as  you  confess  your  own 
inefiiciency  and  general  uselessness, 
there  dawns  upon  you  the  grasping, 
dissatisfied  attitude  of  such  a  soul. 
Then,  if  you  close  your  eyes  and  think, 


47. 


THE    BOSTON     COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


you  will  be  liable  to  see  the  course  in 
life  which  she  pursues. 

Perhaps  the  early  morning  finds  her 
fairly  normal,  decently  forgetful,  because 
restfully  indifferent  to  a  few  thousand 
things.  But,  breakfast  over,  she  rushes 
to  the  telephone,  and,  ringing  up  one 
after  another  of  her  favorite  cronies,  she 
collects  the  gossip  and  doings  of  the  day. 
Of  course,  invitations  and  appointments 
will  come.  .  She  has  no  time  to  muse 
over  a  winsome  story,  sing  a  song,  or 
dwell  upon  themes  that  the  telephone 
cannot  reach.  Has  the  morning  sun 
dropped  behind  some  jagged  cloud,  with 
full  promise  to  emerge  again?  Do  its 
reddening  rays  steal  through  a  favorite 
window,  waking  some  old  family  port- 
rait to  new  life,  or  calling  to  fresh 
growth  the  window  garden  that  she 
loves?  Possibly  so,  but  she  does  not 
see  it.  Her  gowns  must  all  be  freshened 
and  furbished  for  the  many  appearances 
she  must  make  when  those  differing  ap- 
pointments are  kept.  She  is  careful  of 
appearance  usually,  and,  though  nothing 
can  remove  the  wrinkles  or  that  hunted 
look  about  the  eyes,  she  fondly  imagines 
that  a  monstrous  hat  and  a  spotted  veil 
cover  all.  Repose,  why  the  very  name  is 
a  horror.  At  the  club  you  start  a  quiet 
chat  with  some  kindred  spirit  who  has 
strayed  from  home  to  public  joys ;  but 
that  hurrying  soul  rushes  up  and  begs 
frantically  to  introduce  her  dear  friend 
so-and-so,  and,  while  she  still  gasps  the 
name  and  you  strive  to  recall  the  lost 
thread  of  your  conversation,  she  is  off 
to  another  victim,  busily  discussing  the 
feasibility  of  raising  money  for  some 
unfortunate  or  making  calls  on  certain 
new-comers  equally  so.  I  have  wondered 
about,  watched  and  weighed,  this  woman 
for  a  long  time.  I  have  moved  into  the 
far-away  suburbs  to  escape  her;  and, 
while  I  still  wondered,  the  truth  dawned 
upon  me.  It  is  the  same  old  selfishness 
cropping  out  again,  the  same  old 
struggle,  though  carefully  concealed, 
masked  under  the  cloak  of  consideration 


for  the  needs  and  wishes  of  others.  In 
her  restless  heart  is  a  great  fear  that 
she  will  miss  something,  if  it  is  no  more 
than  an  electric  car  or  a  Monday  Sale. 
I  have  seen  such  a  woman  wild  with 
concern  because  two  rival  social  affairs 
happened  to  clash. 

I  have  just  finished  reading  Miss 
Field's  ''Life  of  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe," 
a  record  of  one  who  was  among  the  most 
gifted  and  spiritually  beautiful  of 
womankind.  The  fact  of  her  abstrac- 
tion, even  in  the  best  company,  was 
noticed,  also,  it  is  said,  that  a  conversa- 
tion or  consideration  of  any  one  thing 
would  enlist  all  her  attention.  Yet 
therein  lay  the  wonderful  vision  and 
strength.  What  is  worse  to  a  man  or 
woman  of  soul,  who  takes  any  pride  in 
the  work  of  God,  than  a  caller  \yho 
watches  the  clock  and  makes  pitiful  at- 
tempts to  show  an  interest  unfelt,  as  she 
thinks  of  the  places  where  at  that 
moment  she  should  be?  Readers,  take 
my  word  for  it,  the  woman  who  is  lying 
awake  nights  for  fear  of  missing  some- 
thing, and  who  so  unsparingly  criticises 
her  less  energetic  sister,  is,  in  nine  cases 
out  of  ten,  an  unscrupulously  selfish 
person, — in  short,  a  lost,  because  a  hurry- 
ing, soul.  Above  all,  she  is  perfectly 
right  in  her  conjecture  or  fears  that  she 
is    missing   something 

Therefore,  I  beg  of  you,  be  not  con- 
formed to  her  ways.  Satan  in  all  his 
war  paint  were  not  so  insidious  a  se- 
ducer, because  she  hides  under  the  cloak 
of  industry,  philanthropy,  and  wide  in- 
terests, a  restless,  untrustful  spirit  of 
selfishness  that  is  quite  fiendish  in  its 
effects  on  humanity,  the  home,  and  un- 
born generations.  Beware  of  this 
woman,  the  spirit  she  shows,  the  man 
whom  she  inspires,  and  the  young  life 
that  she  robs  of  its  dreams  and  its  art- 
less, simple  ways.  I  would  rather  be  a 
dweller  on  the  shores  of  time,  a  meander- 
ing, pulseless  nomad,  than  one  of  the 
modern,  rushing,  hurrying,  losing  souls. 
— Kate  Restieux  in  Christian  Register. 


VEAL  CHOPS  EN  CASSEROLE 


>easona 


ble  R 


ecipes 


By  Janet  M.  Hill 


IN  all  recipes  where   flour  is  used,  unless  otherwise  stated,  the  flour  is  measured  after  sifting 
once.     Where  flour  is  measured    by  cups,  the  cup  is   filled  with  a  spoon,  and  a  level   cupful 
is  meant.     A   tablespoonful   or  a   teaspoonful   of  any  designated    material   is   a   level   spoonful. 


Deviled  Sardines 

USE  choice  sardines;  remove  skin 
and  bones  if  necessary,  retain- 
ing the  shape;  sprinkle  them 
generously  with  paprika  and  mustard 
sifted  together;  roll  them  in  sifted,  soft, 
bread  crumbs,  then  in  egg  diluted  with 
milk  and  again  in  sifted  crumbs,  and  fry 
in  deep  fat.  Serve  on  croutons  of  bread, 
the  length  of  the  sardines  and  an  inch 
wide.  Serve  as  an  appetizer.  Garnish 
with  parsley. 

Veal  Chops  en  Casserole 

Wipe  six  veal  chops  very  carefully, 
to  remove  bits  of  bone  if  present ;  roll 
in  flour  and  saute  in  hot  fat  until  nicely 
browned  on  both  sides.  Remove  to  a 
casserole.  Heat  one  cup  of  broth  or 
water,  half  a  cup,  each,  of  tomato  puree 


and  Kornlet  to  the  boiling  point  and  pour 
over  the  chops.  Add  also  half  a  tea- 
spoonful,  each,  of  salt  and  pepper.  Have 
ready  half  a  dozen  onions  cooked  half  an 
hour  and  rinsed  in  cold  water;  dry  these 
on  a  cloth  and  let  brown  in  a  little  butter 
melted  in  the  frying  pan ;  add  these  to 
the  casserole,  cover  and  let  cook  very 
gently  about  an  hour. 

Chicken  Breast  and  Macaroni, 
Chafing  Dish  Style 

Make  a  cream  sauce  of  one-fourth  a 
cup,  each,  of  butter  and  flour,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful,  each,  of  salt  and  paprika  and 
two  cups  of  thin  cream  or  one  cup,  each, 
of  cream  and  chicken  broth.  Add  one 
cup  (generous  measure)  of  cubes  of 
cooked  chicken  breast,  one-fourth  a  cup 
of  sliced  truffles,  one  cup  of  cooked 
macaroni  in  inch  lengths  and  one-fourth 


473 


474 


THE    BOSTOX    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


a  cup  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  also 
additional  salt  and  pepper  if  needed. 
Lilt  the  mixture  with  a  spoon  and  fork, 
to  mix  the  ingredients  thoroughly,  and 
let  stand  over  hot  water  to  become  very 
hot. 

Julienne  of  Halibut,  Figaro  Sauce 

Have  halibut  cut  in  slices  three-fourths 
an  inch  thick;  remove  the  skin  and  bones 
and  cut  each  fillet  in  halves,  lengthwise, 
also  crosswise,  if  the  fillets  are  too  long. 
Sprinkle  with  salt  and  paprika,  roll  in 
flour,  then  dip  in  fritter  batter  and  fry 
in  deep  fat.  Drain  on  soft  paper,  then 
dispose  on  a  hot  plate  covered  with  a 
hot  napkin.  Serve  cold  figaro  sauce  in  a 
bowl  apart. 


slightly  browned;  add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  flour  and  stir  until  frothy,  then  add  a 
cup  of  thick  tomato  puree,  and  stir  until 
boiling;  let  simmer  until  reduced  one 
half,  skimming  as  needed.  Strain  and 
set  aside  to  become  cold.  When  ready 
to  serve  fold  it  into  half  a  cup  of 
mayonnaise  dressing. 

Eggs  en  Cocotte  with  Asparagus 

]^Iake  the  cocottcs,  or  other  small  china 
or  earthenware  dish,  hot  in  boiling  water 
and  put  into  each  two  or  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  hot.  well-seasoned  aspara- 
gus puree  or  asparagus  tips  mixed  with 
hot  cream.  Break  a  fresh  egg  into  each, 
keeping  the  yolk  whole  and  sprinkle  the 
white  lightly  with  salt.     Set  the  dishes  on 


JULIENNE  OF   HALIBUT,    GARNISH   OF   CRESS 


Fritter  Batter  for  Halibut 

Sift  together  three-fourths  a  cup  of 
sifted  flour  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt.  Beat  one  egg;  add  half  a  cup  of 
milk  and  stir  into  the  dry  ingredients. 
Let  stand  an  hour  or  more  before  using. 

Figaro   Sauce 

Cook  two  slices,  each,  of  onion  and 
carrot,  half  a  slice  of  lean  bacon  or  ham, 
half  a  stalk  of  celery,  a  branch  of  parsley, 
all  cut  fine,  with  a  bit  of  bay  leaf,  in 
three     tablespoonfuls     of     butter     until 


several  folds  of  paper  in  a  baking  pan 
and  pour  boiling  water  around  the 
cocoftes  to  rather  more  than  half  their 
height.  Set  a  cover  over  the  whole, 
leaving  space  for  escape  of  steam.  Let 
cook  nearly  ten  minutes  or  until  the 
whites  and  yolks  are  set.  Dry  the  dishes 
and  serve  at  once  on  plates  covered  with 
lace  paper.  A  little  thread  of  cream  or 
white  sauce  made  wdth  white  broth  may 
be  turned  around  the  edge  of  the  egg, 
and  two  hot  asparagus  tips  be  set  on 
the  yolk ;  both  improve  the  dish  in  flavor 
and  appearance. 


SEASONABLE   RECIPES 


475 


Lamb    Cutlets,    Laura  beans  or  peas,  well  seasoned  with  salt, 

Saute  eight  lamb  chops  on  one  side ;     black  pepper  and  butter. 


1" "  ^8 

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v^^^^yi^l 

tm 

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^^.A 

LAMB    CUTLETS,    LAURA 

1    CUTLET    PLAIN,   3    CUTLETS    WITH    MACARONI, 

4    CUTLETS   WITH    CRUMBS 


on  the  cooked  side  set  a  rounj:ling  table- 
spoonful  of  cooked  macaroni,  cheese,  etc., 
in  a  sauce ;  make  the  mixture  smooth, 
cover  with  buttered  crumbs  and  let  cook 
in  the  oven  about  eight  minutes.  About 
half  a  cup  of  macaroni,  broken  in  half- 
inch  lengths,  will  be  needed.  For  the 
sauce  use  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter, 
two  of  flour,  one-fourth,  each,  of  salt 
and  pepper,  and  half  a  cup,  each,  of 
broth  or  cream  and  thick  tomato  puree 
To  the  hot  sauce  add  about  half  a  cup 
of  grated  cheese  and  the  cooked  maca- 
roni. Let  cool  before  using.  As  the 
mixture  should  be  quite  consistent,  it 
were  well  to  add  the  sauce  with  cheese 
to  the  macaroni,  rather  than  the  maca- 


Chaudfroid  of  Chicken 

Cut  fine  half  a  carrot  and  one  onion ; 
add  a  branch  or  two  of  parsley  and  one- 
fourth  a  bay  leaf,  and  if  at  hand  a  table- 
spoonful  of  lean  ham  or  bacon  cut  in 
small  bits.  Let  these  cook  in  two  or 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  until  yel- 
lowed a  little,  then  turn  into  a  casserole 
just  large  enough  to  take  a  chicken 
trussed  for  roasting;  rinse  the  frying 
pan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  madeira 
or  sherry  and  pour  over  the  chicken, 
set  on  the  vegetables,  cover  the  dish  and 
set  to  cook  in  a  moderate  oven.  Baste  the 
fowl  each  twenty  minutes  with  melted 
butter    and    let    cook    until    the    joints 


CHAUDFROID    OF    CHICKEN 


roni  to  the  sauce.     Put  frills  on  the  bones      separate    easily.      When    the    chicken    is 
and  serve  around  a  mound  of  hot  string     cold,  separate  it  into  pieces  at  the  joints. 


476 


THE     BOSTON     COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


remove  and  discard  the  skin,  solid  pieces 
of  fat  and  such  bones  as  can  be  removed 
without  breaking  up  the  flesh.  Do  not 
use  the  pieces  containing  the  back  bone, 
but  retain  the  wing  joints  next  the  breast. 
Dip  each  joint  into  chaudfroid  sauce  that 
is  on  the  point  of  ''setting,"  and  set  on  a 
cold  earthen  plate ;  the  sauce  on  the  first 
joint  will  be  firm  by  the  time  the  last 
one  is  dipped,  unless  the  room  be  rather 
warm.  Set  a  figure  cut  from  a  slice  of 
trufile  on  the  center  of  each  piece,  pour 
aspic  jelly,  just  beginning  to  "set,"  over 
the  joints  and  let  stand  in  a  cool  place 
until  ready  to  use.     Put  a  paper  frill  on 


chicken  was  cooked;  let  simmer  six  or 
eight  minutes,  then  strain,  let  cool  and 
remove  the  fat.  Stir  into  the  broth  a 
scant  half  package  of  gelatine  softened 
in  half  a  cup  of  broth,  salt  and  pepper 
as  needed,  and  the  slightly  beaten  white 
and  crushed  shell  of  one  egg.  Stir  con- 
stantly over  the  fire  until  the  boiling 
point  is  reached,  let  boil  gently  five 
minutes,  then  let  settle  and  strain  through 
a  napkin  wrung  out  of  hot  water. 

Mashed  Potatoes  With  Peas 

Press  pared  potatoes,  cooked  in  boil- 
ing, salted  water  and  drained,  through  a 


MASHED   POTATOES   WITH    PEAS 


the  legs  and  wings  and  arrange  around 
a  mound  of  cold  asparagus  tips  or  string 
beans,  seasoned  with  French  dressing. 
Let  a  lettuce  leaf  protrude  from  below 
each  joint  of  chicken  and  cubes  of  aspic 
jelly  be  disposed  between  them. 

Chaudfroid  Sauce 

Make  an  ordinary  sauce  of  two  table- 
spoonfuls,  each,  of  butter  and  flour,  half 
a  cup,  each,  of  cream  and  chicken  broth, 
one-fourth  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt 
and  pepper.  If  a  yellow  sauce  is  desired, 
add  the  yolk  of  an  egg.  Also  add  to  the 
hot  sauce  one  tablespoonful  of  gelatine 
(one-fourth  a  package)  softened  in  one- 
fourth  a  cup  of  cold  chicken  broth. 

Aspic  Jelly 

Pour  a  pint  of  white  broth  (veal  or 
chicken)     into    the    dish    in    which    the 


potato  ricer;  add,  for  eight  potatoes, 
about  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  one-fourth  a  cup  of 
butter  and  a  very  little  hot  milk.  The 
mixture  can  not  be  shaped  well  if  it  is 
too  moist.  Beat  until  light  and  fluffy, 
then  shape  into  balls.  Set  these  on  a 
buttered  baking  pan,  turned  upside  down, 
and  with  a  spatula  smooth  them  neatly ; 
brush  over  with  the  beaten  yolk  of  an 
egg,  mixed  with  one  or  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  milk,  score  a  circle  on  the  top 
of  each  and  set  into  hot  oven  to  brown 
and  reheat.  Have  ready  green  peas, 
cooked  and  seasoned  with  salt,  black 
pepper  and  butter.  When  ready  to  serve, 
transfer  the  balls  of  potato  to  a  serving 
dish,  cut  around  the  scoring  and  take 
out  the  piece,  and  remove  some  of  the 
potato  to  form  a  case;  fill  the  cases  with 
the  hot  peas  and  serve  at  once  with  fish 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


477 


or  with  beef,  lamb,  veal,  etc.  In  serving 
a  meal  from  the  kitchen  this  dish  may 
be  simplified.  Put  a  spoonful  of  hot, 
mashed    potato    on    a    plate,    with    one 


side  down  on  a  board,  roll  into  a  sheet 
and  cut  into  rounds.  Set  the  rounds 
close  together  or  some  distance  apart 
(according  as  to  whether  a  soft  or  crusty 


HOT   CROSS   BUNS 


motion  of  the  spoon  make  a  hollow  in 
the  center,  then  fill  this  with  the  pre- 
pared peas. 

Hot  Cross  Buns 

Soften  one  cake  of  compressed  yeast 
in  half  a  cup  of  water,  mix  smooth  and 
stir  into  two  cups  of  scalded-and-cooled 
milk,  then  add  three .  cups  or  more  of 
sifted  flour  and  beat  until  smooth.  Cover 
and  let  stand  to  become  very  light ;  add 
about  half  a  cup  of  sugar  (according  to 
taste)  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  three 
yolks   of    eggs,   and   one-third   a   cup  of 


exterior  be  desired).  Bake  about  half 
an  hour.  When  baked  brush  over  the 
surface  with  white  of  Qgg  or  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  cornstarch,  smoothed  in  cold  water 
and  cooked  with  boiling  water  to  a  paste, 
and  return  to  the  oven  to  dry  the  glaze. 
Remove  to  a  wire  cooler  and  pipe  a  cross 
upon  the  top  of  each  bun.  Prepare  the 
ordinary  boiled  frosting,  return  to  the 
fire  (over  boiling  water)  after  the  addi- 
tion of  the  egg-white  and  beat  until  dry 
enough  to  hold  its  shape. 

"Boiled"  Custard  with  Snow  Eggs 


p 

IP^-'l^ft-L. 

,. 

BOILED   CUSTARD    WITH   SNOW   EGGS 


melted  butter;  mix  thoroughly,  then  stir  Scald   one    pint   of    milk   in   a   double 

in  flour  to  make  a  soft  dough,  but  one  boiler;  beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs;  add 

that     can    be     kneaded.       Knead     until  one-third    a   cup    of    sugar   and    half    a 

smooth  and  elastic,  cover  and  let  stand  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  beat  again;  mix 

until  doubled  in  bulk;  turn  carefully  up-  the    yolks    smooth    with    a    little    of    the 


478 


THE    BOSTOX    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


hot  milk,  then  return  to  the  rest  of  the 
milk  and  stir  constantly  until  the  mix- 
ture thickens  enough  to  coat  the  spoon. 
When  cooked  enough,  the  foam  on  the 
top  of  the  mixture  in  the  boiler  will 
largely  disappear.  The  custard  will 
thicken  more  on  cooling.  Set  the  dish 
of  custard  at  once  into  cold  water,  con- 
tinue the  stirring  for  two  or  three  min- 
utes, then  renew  the  water  and  stir  for 
a  few  minutes  longer.  If  the  dish  can 
stand  in  running  water,  so  much  the  bet- 
ter. Flavor  with  three-fourths  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla  just  before  serving. 


and  continue  in  the  same  manner  until 
the  saucepan  is  filled  and  the  material 
is  used.  Turn  the  "eggs"  often  and  let 
cook  about  twenty  minutes. 

Turkish  Blood  Orange  Paste 

Let  three  tablespoonfuls  of  granu- 
lated gelatine  (measured  level)  stand  in 
two-thirds  a  cup  of  juice  from  blood 
oranges  until  the  juice  is  absorbed.  Stir 
two  cups  of  granulated  sugar  and  half 
a  cup  of  juice  over  a  slack  fire  until  the 
sugar  is  dissolved,  then  add  the  softened 
gelatine  and  the  grated  rind   (no  white) 


TURKISH   BLOOD   ORANGE    PASTE 


Serve  the  custard  in  glass  cups  with  a 
"'snow  Qgg'  on  the  top  of  the  custard  in 
each  cup.  Grate  a  little  nutmeg  on  the 
eggs  if  desired. 

Snow  Eggs 

Beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs  very  dry, 
then  very  gradually  beat  into  them  a 
scant  half  cup  of  sugar.  Continue  the 
beating  until  the  mixture  is  very  dry. 
Have  ready  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water, 
on  the  range  where  the  water  will  keep 
hot  without  bubbling.  Dip  two  table- 
spoons into  the  water,  then  take  up  a 
spoonful  of  the  meringue,  and  with  the 
other  spoon  shape  the  top  smooth,  form- 
ing an  oval  shape  like  a  rounding  spoon- 
ful of  any  material.  \\'ith  the  second 
spoon  push  the  meringue  into  the  water 


of  three  oranges  and  beat  to  the  boiling 
point ;  let  boil  twenty  minutes  after  boil- 
ing begins ;  remove  from  the  fire  and  add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon  juice  and 
half  a  cup  of  candied  cherries,  cut  fine. 
For  a  more  pronounced  flavor  of  orange 
add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  curacoa. 
The  cherries  may  be  omitted.  Turn  the 
mixture  into  an  unbuttered  bread  pan. 
Let  stand  in  a  cool  place  overnight.  To 
unmold  sift  confectioner's  sugar  over  the 
top  of  the  paste  and  with  a  sharp-pointed 
knife  loosen  the  candy  at  the  edge,  then 
slowly  pull  the  paste  in  a  sheet  from  the 
pan  to  a  board  dredged  with  confec- 
tioner's sugar.  Cut  the  paste  into  cubes, 
keeping  sugar  between  the  knife  and 
paste  during  the  cutting.  Roll  each  piece 
in  the  sugar. 


SEASONABLE   RECIPES 


479 


Stewed  Figs  with  Charlotte  Russe     into   the  white  and   into  this    fold  the 
Cream  cream;   pipe   this    cream   mixture   above 

the  figs  in  the  glasses.     Serve  thoroughly 

Pour  boiling  water  over  twelve  pulled     chilled.    Dried  peaches,  cooked  carefully, 

or   bag   figs,   let   stand   a   few   moments,     are  particularly  good  served  in  this  way! 


STEWED    FIGS   WITH    CHARLOTTE    RUSSE    CREAM 


then  pour  off  the  water  and  set  to  cook 
in  a  fresh  supply.  Let  cook  rapidly  un- 
til the  skins  are  tender,  then  add  about 
one-third  a  cup  of  sugar  and  let  cook 
until  the  liquid  is  well  reduced.  Cool 
the  figs,  cut  each  into  slices  and  dispose 
them  in  six  tall  glasses ;  pour  on  the 
liquid  and  if  desired  a  tablespoonful  of 
sherry  wine  or  lemon  or  orange  juice. 
Beat  three-fourths  a  cup  of  cream  until 
fine  and  the  white  of  a  small  egg  until 
dry;  beat  a  scant  fourth  a  cup  of  sugar 


Ice  Cream  Croquettes 

Chop  fine  half  a  cup  of  blanched  al- 
monds, spread  on  a  baking  sheet  and  let 
brown  in  the  oven.  Stir  occasionally 
that  the  nuts  brown  evenly,  when  cool 
they  are  ready  to  use.  Dry  macaroons, 
rolled  smooth  and  sifted,  may  be  used 
in  place  of  the  nuts,  so  also  may  sponge 
cake  crumbs.  The  cake  may  be  browned 
before  or  after  being  pulverized.  Any 
variety   of    ice    cream    may    be    selected, 


ICE   CREAM    CROQUETTES 


480 


THE    BOSTON     COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


but  vanilla  is  usually  chosen.  Roll  a 
large  tablespoonful  of  the  ice  cream  into 
a  ball,  then  with  a  spatula  turn  it  on  a 
board  (or  plate)  to  a  cylinder-shaped 
mass.  Lift  with  the  spatula  to  a  brick 
mold  lined  with  paper;  put  two  or  more 
croquettes  into  the  mold,  cover  with  a 
strip  of  waxed  paper,  and  add  other 
croquettes.  Let  stand,  covered  securely, 
half  an  hour  or  longer  in  a  mixture  of 
salt  and  crushed  ice.  Roll  in  the  chopped 
nuts  or  fine  crumbs,  while  giving  the 
finishing  touches  to  the  shapes.  Serve 
at  once  with  a  little  caramel  sauce  on 
the  plate  beside  the  croquette,  or  return 
a  second  time  to  the  mold  for  chilling. 
Croquettes  of  vanilla  ice  cream,  rolled 
in  sponge  cake  crumbs  (browned  in 
oven)  are  particularly  good  with  straw- 
berry or  raspberry  sauce.  If  a  quantity 
are  to  be  prepared,  they  may  be  chilled 
in  the  can  of  the  freezer.  The  paper 
set  betw^een  the  layers  should  be  quite 
firm.  Have  the  mold  chilled  and  packed 
before  beginning  to  shape  the  croquettes. 


the  mold.  The  way  in  which  these  arti- 
cles are  used  will  depend  upon  the  style 
of  mold  selected.  After  the  decorations 
have  been  set  in  place,  pour  a  few  drops 
of  melted  butter  upon  each  article  or 
piece  of  an  article,  and  set  in  a  cool 
place  to  become  chilled.  Put  the  cake, 
fruit  and  one-fourth  a  cup  of  cleaned 
currants  in  the  mold  in  alternate  layers. 
Beat  four  eggs;  add  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  a  scant  half  cup  of  sugar  and 
beat  again,  then  stir  in  two  cups  of  rich 
milk,  mix  thoroughly  and  pour  over  the 
ingredients  in  the  mold.  Let  stand  a  few 
moments  that  the  cake  may  take  up  the 
mixture.  Let  cook  in  the  oven  until 
firm  (about  forty  minutes)  on  many 
folds  of  paper  in  a  dish,  surrounded  by 
boiling  water.  When  cold  unmold.  Beat 
two  yolks  of  eggs;  gradually  beat  in 
one-fourth  a  cup  of  sugar,  then  stir  over 
hot  w^ater  about  five  minutes ;  set  into 
ice  water  and  beat  till  cold,  then  grad- 
ually stir  in  one  cup  of  double  cream 
and    a    teaspoonful    of    vanilla.      When 


COLD    APRK  O 


IDDING 


Cold  Apricot  Pudding 

Cut  brioche,  or  cake  into  quarter-inch 
cubes,  also  cut  fifteen  halves  of  peeled 
apricots  (canned)  into  small  pieces. 
There  should  be  one  cup  and  three- 
fourths  of  the  brioche  or  cake.  Butter 
a  quart  mold,  then  dredge  with  sugar. 
Use  whole  seeded  raisins,  cleaned  cur- 
rants and  slices   of  apricot,   to  decorate 


smooth  beat  until  firm  throughout  and 
use  to  decorate  the  pudding.  Let  the 
sugar  melt  in  the  yolks  somewhat  before 
setting  them  over  the  fire. 

Dried  Apricot    Sherbet 

Soak  half  a  pound  of  dried  apricots 
in  cold  water  over  night ;  pour  off  the 
water,  strain  it  through  a  cheese  cloth 
and  return  to  the  apricots  with  as  much 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES 


481 


boiling  water  as  is  needed  to  cook  them. 
Let  cook  rapidly  till  tender,  when  done 
there  should  be  one  quart  of  apricots  and 
liquid;  press  through  a  sieve,  add  one 
quart  of  water,  two  cups  and  a  half  of 
sugar  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and 
freeze  as  any  sherbet.  For  a  smoother 
sherbet,  cook  the  sugar  in  the  pulp  five 
or  six  minutes,  then  cool,  add  the  cold 
water  and  freeze. 

Roast  Leg  of  Lamb,  Marine 

Shorten  the  shank  bone  on  a  line  with 
the  flesh,  also  remove  the  bones  at  the 
other  end  of  the  leg  and  remove  the  skin 
and  all  superfluous  fat.  Draw  lardoons 
of  salt  pork  or  bacon  into  the  whole 
of  the  upper  surface  or  top  of  the  leg, 
then  pour  over  it  a  marinade,  cover  and 
let  stand  for  two  days.  When  about 
ready  to  roast  withdraw  from  the  marin- 
ade, dry  thoroughly,  set  on  a  rack  in  a 
small  baking  pan  and  set  to  roast  in 
an  extremely  hot  oven.  Retain  the  heat 
until  the  meat  is  seared  on  all  sides,  then 
reduce  and  finish  the  cooking  at  a  lower 
temperature,  basting  every  ten  minutes. 
Cook  about  one  hour  and  a  half.  The 
time  of  cooking  depends  on  the  weight 
and  the  condition  desired.  Serve  with 
mint  sauce. 

Marinade  for  Lamb,  Game,  Etc. 

Heat  one-fourth  a  cup  of  oil  or  butter 
in  a  frying  pan;  in  it  cook  two  ounces, 
each,  of  carrots  and  onions,  chopped 
fine,  half  a  clove  of  garlic,  crushed,  two 
parsley  branches,  one-fourth  a  bay  leaf 
and  half  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  dried 
basil  and  thyme.  When  the  vegetables 
begin  to  brown,  add  one  cup  of  vinegar, 
half  a  bottle  of  white  wine,  and  one 
quart  of  water,  and  cook  twenty 
minutes;  add  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  a 
dozen  peppercorns  and  one-fourth  a  cup 
of  brown  sugar,  let  simmer  ten  minutes, 
strain  and  cool  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 
If  the  marinade  does, not  cover  the  meat, 
the  meat  must  be  turned  or  basted  several 
times   during   the   day.      This   marinade 


must  be  scalded  after  use,  or  the  meat 
juice  drawn  into  it  will  cause  it  to  spoil. 
This  sort  of  marinade  is  most  useful  in 
the  country,  where  meat  is  provided  in 
quantity  and  the  roasting  piece  is  kept 
several  days.  By  the  use  of  the  marinade 
the  cooking  can  be  delayed  two  days  later 
than  without  it.  When  a  marinade  is 
desired  for  flavoring  rather  than  for  the 
preservation  of  the  article,  the  meat, 
joint,  cutlet,  etc.,  may  be  laid  on  a  bed 
of  uncooked  vegetables  and  herbs,  and 
vinegar  and  oil  be  poured  over  the  meat, 
and  then  more  of  the  same  vegetables 
and  herbs  spread  over  the  top.  Cook 
the  meat  after  it  has  stood  for  one  or 
two  hours. 

Mint  Sauce 

Pick  the  leaves  from  a  bunch  of  mint 
and  chop  them  very  fine ;  add  one-fourth 
a  cup  of  boiling  water  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar.  Cover  and  let  stand 
m  a  cool  place  half  an  hour,  then  add 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  one- 
fourth  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt  and- 
paprika.  If  preferred  the  juice  of  a 
large  lemon  may  replace  the  vinegar; 
or^e  half  the  sugar  will  then  be  enough. 

Breakfast  Potatoes 

Put  one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
in  an  agate  frying  pan,  and  set  it  over 
the  fire ;  turn  in  one  pint  of  cold,  cooked 
potatoes  cut  in  thin  slices,  sprinkle  with 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  turn  the 
potato  over  and  over,  that  the  butter  as 
it  melts  may  be  evenly  distributed 
through  the  potato.  Add  about  half  a 
cup  of  boiling  water  or  broth  (corned 
beef  broth  is  good,  but  with  this  less  salt 
is  needed),  cover  and  let  stand  to  get 
very  hot  and  boiling  throughout.  Turn 
at  once  into  a  hot  dish.  More  liquid  may 
be  needed.  The  potato  should  be  moist, 
but  not  sloppy  in  the  least. 


Note:  In  the  recipe  for  Pineapple  Pie.  page  XI I  of  the 
March  issue,  one  cup  of  flour  should  read  one-fourth  a  cup 
of  flour— Ed. 


Menus  for  a  Week  in  May 

"When  the  doctor  calls,  he  should  enter  by  way  of  the  back  door,  and  thank  the 
cook  for  that  neglect  which  calls  for  his  costly  visits." — German. 


Breakfast 

Strawberries 

Yeast    Rolls    Reheated 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Deviled   Sardines  or   Brook  Trout 

Veal  Cutlets  en  Casserole 

Asparagus  on  Toast,  Drawn  Butter  Sauce 

Cress,-  French    Dressing 

Cold    Apricot    Pudding 

Half    Cups    of    Coffee 

Supper 

Mexican    Rabbit 

Dried    Peaches,    Stewed,    Cream 

Blood    Orange   Turkish   Paste 


Breakfast 

Corned   Beef   Hash 

Eggs    Cooked   in   Shell 

White    Corn    Meal    Muffins 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Cheese  Pudding 

Boiled    Spinach 

Prune-and-Nut    Mold 

Boiled   Custard   Sauce.    Tea 

Dinner 

Bluefish,    Stuffed    and    Baked, 

Pickle   Sauce 

Mashed   Potatoes  String  Beans 

Lemon    Sherbet 

Half    Cups    of    Coffee 


Breakfast 

Asparagus    Omelet 
Buttered    Toast 

Doughnuts 
Coffee.     Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Creamed  Bermuda  Onions  on  Toast 
Bluefish  Salad 

Yeast   Biscuit 
Coffee 

Dinner 

Broiled    Sirloin    Steak 

French    Fried    Potatoes 

Canned  Tomatoes,  Stewed 

Canned  Peaches,  Manhattan  Style 

Tea 


Breakfast 

Cold   Boiled   Ham,    Sliced   Thin 

Creamed  Potatoes 

Boston    Brown    Bread,    Reheated 

White  Bread.     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Egg    Timbales,    Bread    Sauce 

Prune-and-Pecan  Nut  Salad 

Whole  Wheat  Bread  and  Butter 

Tea 

Dinner 

Young  Pigeons  Roasted  en  Casserole 
(without  Liquid)   Mashed  Potatoes 

Cress,     French    Dressing 

Dried  Peach  Pie,  Cream  Cheese 

Half   Cups  of   Coffee 


Breakfast 

Creamed    Salt   Fish    on   Toast, 

Poached   Eggs   above 

Hot  Cross  Buns,  Reheated 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Canned    Tomatoes    Baked    with    Nuts 

Graham    Muffins 

Boiled  Custard,   Snow  Eggs 

Potato  Sponge  Cake  Tea 

Dinner 

Ham   Souffle 

Mashed    Potatoes    with    Peas 

Lettuce,  French  Dressing 

Stewed    Figs,    Charlotte    Russe    Cream 

Cookies.     Half    Cups   of    Coffee 


Breakfast 

Broiled  Bacon,  Scrambled  Eggs 

Breakfast  Pototoes.     Coffee.     Cocoa 

Corn    Meal   Mush,   Maple   Syrup 

Luncheon    (Guests) 

Julienne    of    Fresh    Fish,    Fried, 

Figaro  Sauce 

Hot  House  Cucumbers,  French   Dressing 

Balls   of    Mashed    Potatoes    with    Peas 

Baking  Powder  Biscuit 

Pineaople  Sherbet.     Coffee 

Dinner    (Guests) 

Chicken   Broth   with    Poached   Yolks 

Roast  Leg  of  Lamb,  Marine,  Mint  Sauce 

Franconia    Potatoes 

Asparagus,    Maltese    Sauce 

Canned  Peaches  and  Maraschino  Cherries, 

Charlotte    Russe    Cream 

Half   Cups  of   Coffee 


Breakfast    (Guests) 


Luncheon 


Barley  Crystals,  Thin  Cream        Dried  Lima  Beans,  Stewed 
Eggs  en  Cocotte  with  Asparagus    Yeast  Biscuit  (Rye  Meal) 
Pop  Overs  Chocolate    Eclairs 

Coffee .     Cocoa 

482 


Dinner 

Lamb  Reschaufee  Creole 

(Macaroni,  Tomatoes,  etc.) 

Cold  Asparagus,  French  Dressing 

Caramel  Coffee  Jelly 

Boiled  Custard 


Menus  for  a  Week,  Old  Ladies  Home 

"  Temperance  in  eating  is  quite  as  necessary  as  in  anything  else." — Mrs.  Richards. 


>  1 
< 

^  I 

O 


Breakfast 

Hot   Boiled   Rice,    Hot   Dates,    Milk 

Poached   Eggs   on   Toast 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Fore    Quarter    of    Lamb,     Boiled, 

Pickle    Sauce 

Boiled    Potatoes 

Spinach 

Bread   Pudding  with  Dried  Currants 

Hard   Sauce 

Tea 

Supper 

Buttered   Toast 

Marmalade 

Tea 


Breakfast 

Broiled    Honeycomb    Tripe 

Stewed    Potatoes 

Dry  Toast.     Coffee 

Dinner 

Hot  Baked  Ham 

Baked   Potatoes,    Spinach 

Poor  Man's  Rice  Pudding 

Cocoa 

Supper 

Crackers  or  Hot  Boiled  Rice  and  Milk 

Gingerbread 

Tea 


> 
< 


Breakfast 

Breakfast 

Corn   Meal   ^lush,   ^lilk 

Salt    Codfish,    Creamed 

Lamb-and-Potato    Hash, 

Baked   Potatoes 

Horseradish 

Baking  Powder  Biscuit 

Bread    and    Butter 

Coffee 

> 

<- 

Coffee.     Cocoa 

Dinner 

Dinner 

Fresh    Fish   Chowder 

a 

Fresh    Haddock,    Fried 

Cold    Spinach    with    Slices    o 

'Sl 

Mashed   Potatoes 

Boiled    Egg, 

Canned    String    Beans 

French    Dressing 

Rhubarb   Pie 

Coffee  Jelly,  Boiled  Custard 

Tea 

Tea 

Supper 

Supper 

Milk    Toast 

Cold    Baked    Ham 

Dried    Peaches,    Stewed 

Bread    and    Butter 

Cookies 

Stewed    Prunes 

Tea 

Drop    Cookies.     Tea 

of 


si 

SI 

>  ' 


Breakfast 

Corn    Meal    ^.lush,    Fried, 

Caramel    Syrup 

Bacon,  Mashed  Potato  Cakes,  Baked 

(left  over  potato) 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Lamb-and-Tomato    Soup 

(with    rice) 

One    Lamb    Chop    (each) 

French    Fried    Potatoes 

Baked    Tapioca    Custard    Pudding, 

Vanilla  Sauce 

Tea 

Supper 

Dried    Lima    Beans,     Stewed 

Bread  and  Butter 

Tea 


Breakfast 

Boiled    Rice,    Milk 

Eggs   Scrambled  with  Chopped  Ham 

Rye  Meal  ^luffins 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Lamb    Stew,    Baked    Dumplings 

Canned   Peas 

Corn   Starch  Blanc   Mange,   Sugar 

and    Milk 

Tea 

Supper 

Milk    Toast 

Dried    Apricots,    Stewed 

Drop  Cookies 

Tea 


Breakfast 

Oatmeal    or    Wheat,    Milk 

Hot   Cross   Buns 

Coffee 


Dinner 

Roast    Leg    of    Lamb, 

Franconia    Potatoes,    Parsnips 

Baked    Bananas 

Junket    Ice    Cream 

Tea 

483 


Supper 

Succotash 
Bread    and    Butter 

Stewed    Peaches 

Xeufchatel    Cheese 

Tea 


Food  and  Health 

By  Janet  M.  Hill 


AT  middle  life,  if  not  before,  one 
becomes  much  interested  in  the 
relation  of  food  to  health. 
When  rheumatic  twinges  invite  attention 
to  muscles,  joints  or  nerves,  then  it  is 
that  one  begins  to  question  the  propriety 
of  eating  this  or  that  article  of  food. 

Food  is  burned,  or  oxidized,  in  the 
body;  the  starches  and  sugars  are  com- 
pletely burned,  what  is  left  being  elim- 
inated as  waste.  But  the  proteids,  par- 
ticularly meats,  are  not  so  completely 
oxidized.  The  proteid  ash  is  represented 
by  complicated  substances,  some  of  which 
are  solid, — one  of  these  is  known  as  uric 
acid, — and  accumulations  of  these  solids 
in  the  system  encourages  rheumatism, 
billiousness  and  kindred  disorders.  In 
considering  these  things  some  may  con- 
clude it  were  wise  to  become  vegetarians, 
but  bread,  potatoes  and  other  starchy 
foods,  especially  if  eaten  generously  or 
without  proteid,  also  are  apt  to  set  up 
fermentation  in  the  stomach,  which  re- 
sults in  the  formation  of  acids  that  re- 
duce the  alkalinity  of  the  blood  and 
derange  all  nutritive  processes. 

Probably  no  one  article  of  food  can  be 
named  that  will  agree  with  every  one  at 
all  times.  Some  can  not  eat  strawberries, 
others  can  not  partake  of  fish,  but,  pass- 
ing by  these  and  similar  idiosyncracies 
of  constitution,  it  is  doubtless  w4se  for 
each  to  choose  as  varied  a  diet  as  cir- 
cumstances will  permit.  By  this  we  do 
not  mean  great  variety  at  a  single  meal. 


\Mien  a  large  number  of  dishes  are  pre- 
sented at  a  meal,  erroneous  combinations 
are  likely  to  occur,  and  it  is  in  these  ill 
combinations  of  really  wholesome  dishes 
that  the  foundation  of  many  a  digestive 
disturbance  is  laid.  For  instance,  grape- 
fruit and  oranges  are  often  put  under 
the  ban  of  forbidden  fruits,  when  in 
reality  they  have  a  beneficent  role  to 
play  in  dietaries;  but  either  fruit  at  a 
meal  with  milk  is  unhygienic. 

Fruit  is  most  wholesome  when  eaten 
alone  and  between  meals,  the  large  quan- 
tity of  water  in  composition  being  the 
purest  supply  of  this  necessary  com- 
pound that  is  known.  In  robust  health, 
the  free  acid  in  a  small  quantity  of  fruit, 
eaten  at  meals,  may  be  neutralized  by 
other  items,  particularly  fat,  as  is  the 
acid  of  tomatoes  eaten  with  oil.  This 
is  why  strawberries  are  considered  more 
wholesome  with  cream  than  with  milk. 
But  the  ideal  time  for  eating  fruit,  in- 
cluding strawberries,  is  between  meals 
and  unaccompanied  by  other  articles. 
The  acid  in  cooked  cranberries  and  ap- 
ples, eaten  with  roasts  of  fowl  and  pork, 
are  held  to  be  correctives  of  the  gen- 
erous quantity  of  fat  in  the  respective 
dishes  and  as  such  the  combination  is 
physiological. 

At  the  same  time  see  to  it  that  the 
variety  of  food  in  a  meal  is  limited,  but 
vary  the  articles  themselves  from  day  to 
day.  As  far  as  is  practicable  choose 
such  articles  of  food  as  are  in  the  con- 


484 


FOOD  AND  HEALTH 


485 


dition  found  in  nature.  Only  such 
should  be  the  food  of  young  children 
and  those  of  impaired  digestion.  For 
instance,  cream,  butter  and  cheese  are 
comparatively  wholesome,  but,  if  we  take 
thes^  articles  in  the  form  of  milk,  we 
secure  them  without  risk  of  digestive 
disturbance.  So,  also,  sugar  in  the  cane 
and  in  sweet  fruits,  diluted  by  the  other 
compounds  in  composition,  is  more 
wholesome  than  the  concentrated  sugar 
purchased  at  the  grocers. 

Milk  and  meat  at  the  same  meal  em- 
barrass the  stomach, — so  also  do  meat 
and  eggs,  unless  in  either  case  the  quan- 
tity of  each  be  small.  In  middle  Hfe  we 
have  an  appetite  for  more  food,  often 
more  proteid  food,  than  we  need.  Less 
food  is  required,  and  we  are  inclined  to 
eat  more,  and  it  is  this  surplus  food, 
rather  than  any  one  particular  article  of 
food,  that  is  calling  our  attention  to  the 
problem  of  health.  Mrs.  Ellen  H.  Rich- 
ards, who  has  recently  passed  away, 
wrote  in  1900,  '*!  well  remember  with 
what  astonishment  I  made  the  discovery 
that  a  fancied  heart-disease,  which  made 
climbing  stairs  distressful,  disappeared 
before  a  more  abstemious  diet,  and  was, 
therefore,  not  a  sign  of  breaking  up  at 
fifty — a  corresponding  relief."  Contin- 
uing, Mrs.  Richards  says,  ''It  is  probable 
that  about  half  the  calories,  half  the 
starch  and  two-thirds  the  proteid  that 
he  could  well  utilize  at  twenty-five  or 
thirty,  may  fully  serve  a  person  at  sixty." 

Once  the  command  was,  "If  any  would 
not  work,  neither  should  he  eat."  This 
command  is  not  to  be  overlooked  to-day 


— exercise  wastes  tissue,  and  food  is 
needed  to  supply  this  waste.  A  woman 
of  80  who  walked  as  spry  as  a  girl,  upon 
being  asked  how  she  had  been  able  to 
keep  herself  so  young,  replied,  "by  kick- 
ing." When  the  weather  did  not  permit 
of  her  usual  out  of  door  exercise,  she 
was  accustomed  to  sit  upon  the  floor  for 
a  specified  time  and  kick  out  with  her 
feet.  The  exercise  not  only  kept  up  her 
appetite  but  helped  digest  the  food  she 
ate.  It  is  said  that  "appetite  comes  with 
eating,"  and  to  be  well  one  must  enjoy 
food,  but  the  enjoyment  must  not  lead 
us  to  overlook  the  fact  that  in  middle 
and  later  life  food  must  not  be  partaken 
of  as  generously  as  when  growth  and 
constant  activity  had  to  be  met  by  a 
corresponding  intake  of  food.  As  a 
means  to  health,  let  us  study  dietetics 
between  meals  and  never  at  the  table ; 
then  avoid  eating  anything  that  is  known 
to  disagree.  Cut  out  rich  food,  eat  spar- 
ingly of  a  few  articles  that  are  in  a 
natural  condition,  and  vary  these  articles 
from  day  to  day.  Retain  the  appetite  but 
regulate  it.  "Do  not  tempt  me  with  your 
attractive,  savory  dishes,"  was  the  plaint 
of  the  Prince  Regent  of  England,  when 
served  by  the  great  Careme;  "you  will 
make  me  die  of  indigestion."  The  char- 
acteristic reply  of  Careme  was  satis- 
factory to  the  Prince,  whom  he  con- 
tinued to  serve.  "My  principal  office," 
he  said,  "is  to  challenge  your  appetite 
by  the  variety  of  my  service;  but  it  is 
not  my  affair  to  regulate  it."  The  latter 
is  strictly  a  personal  matter,  and  depends 
on  one's  habit  of  self  control. 


THERE  are  women  the  country  over 
who  are  turning  their  old-fash- 
ioned feminine  accomplishments  into  the 
needed  dollars.  A  glass  of  guava  jelly 
sent  to  a  sick  friend  was  the  beginning 
of  a  Florida  woman's  business.  "Why 
don't  you  make  it  for  sale?"  the  friend 
suggested,  and  the  guava  jelly  maker 
now   has   an   income   of   $1,000   a  year. 


The  famous  pickles  of  a  Virginia 
woman  are  on  tables  everywhere,  and 
they  have  demanded  a  factory  instead 
of  a  kitchen  for  their  headquarters.  In 
New  York's  smartest  shopping  district 
snuggles  a  dainty  little  shop  where  noth- 
ing but  cakes — one  woman's  home-made 
cakes — are  sold  in  an  environment  of 
mahogany  and  old-blue  tapestry. 


Lessons  in  Elementary  Cooking 

By  Mary  Chandler  Jones 

Teacher  of  Cookery  in  the  Public   Schools    of  Brookline,  Mass. 
LESSON  X 


',  Meat 

MEAT  may  be  defined  as  ''the 
flesh  of  animals  used  for  food." 
This,  of  course,  varies  much  in 
different  parts  of  the  world,  since  in  some 
countries  flesh  is  sold  and  eaten,  which 
we  should  by  no  means  consider  proper 
for  food.  Even  in  lands  of  a  civiliza- 
tion similar  to  our  own  horse-flesh  is 
sold  and  used  by  the  poorer  people.  It 
is.  however,  labeled  as  such  and  cannot 
masquerade  as  beef.  In  our  own  coun- 
try we  may  divide  meat  into  two  great 
classes — 

1.  Domestic  animals  and  fowls  used 
for  food. 

2.  Wild  animals  and  birds,  called  in 
general,  ''game." 

Let  the  pupils  make  lists  of  the 
domestic  animals  and  kinds  of  poultry 
that  they  know,  and  also  name  the  game 
birds  and  animals.  Sometimes  in  the 
fall  and  winter  even  bear-meat  may  be 
seen  in  the  markets,  and  less  rare  game 
may  often  be  found.  The  cookery  of 
game  is  not  necessary  for  consideration 
in  a  school  lesson.  It  follows  in  general 
the  same  principles  as  the  cookery  of 
other  meat. 

Meat,  at  sight,  may  be  divided  into 
two  parts,  the  lean,  which  is  the  muscle, 
and  the  fat.  Beside  the  fat.  which  is 
found  in  large  quantity,  here  and  there, 
in  the  body  structure  of  the  animal,  there 
is  much  fat  stored  in  tiny  particles  be- 
tween the  fibres  of  the  muscle.  It  is 
because  of  these  tiny  bits  of  fat  that  a 
piece  of  apparently  lean  meat  will  cause 
water  in  which  it  is  cooked  to  look 
greasy.  Meat  contains  a  very  large  per- 
centage of  water,  which  varies  in  differ- 
ent meats  and  at  different  times.     Very 


lean  meat  contains  a  larger  percentage 
of  water  than  meat  that  has  a  good  pro- 
portion of  fat.  \A"hy,  then,  is  it  an 
economy  to  choose  meat  in  which  a 
generous  amount  of  fat  is  intermingled 
with  the  muscular  tissue?  Has  water  in 
the  composition  of  rneat  any  greater 
food  value  than  any  other  form  of  water  ? 

Meat  contains  no  starch,  and  so  small 
a  quantity  of  sugar  that  it  may  prac- 
tically be  disregarded.  Why  do  we  en- 
joy potato  and  rice  and  macaroni  with 
our  meat?  Why  is  a  meat  sandwich  a 
wholesome  and  palatable  part  of  the 
school  or  picnic  luncheon? 

The  flavor  of  meat  is  caused  by  sub- 
stances called  "extractives,"  which  con- 
tain in  themselves  almost  no  nourish- 
ment, but  which  serve  to  make  the  meat 
or  broth  more  appetizing  and  so  more 
digestible  and  nutritious.  Clear  soups, 
containing  only  these  flavoring  materials, 
are  of  no  more  food  value  than  tea  and 
coff"ee  served  without  milk.  They  are 
stimulants  only,  and  as  such  have  their 
place,  but  they  must  not  be  allowed  to 
supplant  other  kinds  of  food. 

The  "muscle-building,"  or  proteid  part 
of  the  meat  is,  perhaps,  the  most  im- 
portant for  us  to  consider,  not  only  from 
the  point  of  view  of  its  cookery,  but  also 
from  that  of  its  food  value.  This  food 
value  is  greatly  lessened  by  careless 
cookery. 

Some  experiments  may  be  tried  with 
bits  of  meat,  as  with  pieces  of  fish.  Re- 
call the  behavior  of  the  fish  under  similar 
conditions  and  also  the  appearance  of 
the  egg  and  the  change  noticeable  in 
scalded  milk. 

Experiment  I. — Place  a  piece  of  meat, 
cut  into  small  pieces,  in  enough  cold 
water  to  cover  it.     Observe  the  changes 


486 


LESSONS  IN  ELEMENTARY  COOKING 


487 


that  take  place  in  the  water  and  in  the 
bits  of  meat  as  it  stands.  After  about 
half  an  hour  strain  off  the  water  and 
heat  it.  What  change  takes  place  ?  How 
does  this  show  the  presence  of  albumin? 
If  albumin  is  dissolved  out  of  the  fibre 
of  the  meat  by  cold  water,  how  shall  we 
wash  meat? 

Experiment  11. — Plunge  a  bit  of  meat 
into  boiling  water  and  let  it  boil  five 
minutes.  Notice  the  instantaneous  sear- 
ing of  the  surface  juices.  Examine  the 
interior  of  the  meat  to  see  how  far  the 
heat  has  penetrated,  and  observe  also  the 
appearance  of  the  water  in  which  it  was 
cooked.  Why  is  this  not  the  best  way  to 
cook  meat,  when  quick  cooking  is  de-. 
sired  ? 

Experiment  III. — Follow  the  same 
directions  as  in  Experiment  II.,  but 
lower  the  heat  after  the  meat  has  boiled 
one  minute,  then  cook  below  the  boiling 
point  for  five  or  six  minutes.  Compare 
the  results  with  those  in  Experiment  II. 

Experiment  IV. — Place  a  small  piece 
of  meat  over  the  strong  heat  of  the  fire 
or  in  a  very  hot  iron  pan.  Notice  the 
immediate  whitening  and  hardening  of 
the  surface,  which  we  call  "searing." 
What  will  this  treatment  of  the  surface 
accomplish  for  the  inner  juices? 

In  meat  cookery,  as  in  that  of  fish,  we 
may  have  in  view  any  one  of  three 
objects : 

L  To  extract  the  juices. 

2.  To'  retain  the  juices. 

3.  To  extract,  in  part,  and,  in  part,  to 
retain  the  juices. 

Let  the  pupils  compare  with  the  fish 
and  suggest  dishes  which  would  require 
the  employment  of  either  of  these.  Let 
them  also  suggest  ways  in  which  these 
objects  may  be  attained. 

General  Rules  for  the  Preparation 
of  Meat 

I.  Meat  should  be  carefully  chosen, 
both  for  the  suitability  of  the  cut  to  the 
desired  purpose  and  also  for  its  quality. 
Good  meat  should  be  firm  in  texture  and 


bright  red  in  color,  with  clear,  yellowish 
white  fat,  and  bits  of  fat  scattered 
through  the  fibre. 

II.  Wash  the  meat  very  carefully  with 
a  cloth  dipped  in  cold  water  in  which 
there  is  a  little  salt.  (Let  the  pupils  give 
reasons  for  washing  meat  at  all.  How 
should  meat  be  protected  when  exposed 
for  sale?) 

III.  Remove  any  superfluous  fat  and 
pink  skin.  Do  not  throw  away  these 
trimmings,  unless  you  are  sure  they  can- 
not be  profitably  used.  (Let  the  pupils 
suggest  ways  in  which  such  trimmings 
and  waste  fat  may  be  utilized,  in  a  house- 
hold.) 

IV.  In  the  case  of  meat  to  be  roasted 
or  cooked  in  water,  weigh  it  before  cook- 
ing in  order  to  ascertain  how  long  cook- 
ing it  will  require.  In  general  we  may 
allow  about  fifteen  minutes  for  every 
pound  and  fifteen  minutes  extra,  to  give 
the  heat  a  chance  to  penetrate  to  the 
centre  of  the  meat,  since  meat  is  a  slow 
conductor  of  heat. 

Meat  Cooked  in  Water 

Prepare  the  meat  by  the  general  rule 
and  plunge  it  into  boiling,  salted  water. 
Let  it  boil  one  or  two  minutes  and  then 
lower  the  heat  and  cook  just  below  the 
boiling  point  for  the  remaining  time. 
When  removed  from  the  water  and  cut 
the  meat  should  be  juicy  and  somewhat 
rare  in  the  centre,  as  in  roaist  meat.  A 
gravy  may  be  made  from  a  portion  of 
the  meat  stock,  with  butter  and  flour, 
browned  together. 

.  (Why  is  it  best  to  use  this  stock  in 
some  way?  In  what  other  ways  may 
this  stock  be  made  useful?) 

Sauce  for  Meat  Cooked  in  Water 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 

1  tablespoonful   of  chopped  onion 

1  cup  of  meat  stock 

Salt  and  pepper 

Melt  the  butter  and  brown  it  to  a  rich 
color.  Add  the  flour  and  brown  again. 
(The  onion  may  be  cooked  in  the  butter 


488 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


or  in  the  stock,  as  preferred.)  Add  the 
stock  and  seasonings  and  proceed  as  in 
making  ''white  sauce." 

(Why  is  it  impossible  to  give  any 
absolute  amount  of  salt  foi^  this  sauce? 
Why  is  it  wrong  to  brown  the  butter  in 
making  white  sauce,  yet  desirable  in  this 
recipe?     Do  you  observe  any  change  in 


the  thickening  power  of  the  starchy  sub- 
stance when  it  is  browned?) 

Other  ways  of  cooking  meat  so  that 
the  juices  may  be  retained  will  be  con- 
sidered in  the  next  lesson,  and  also  ways 
by  which  we  may  extract  the  juices  from 
the  meat. 


Window  Washing 
By  G.  M. 


Do  clean  windows  better  the  health 
of  a  family?  Yes.  It  is  an 
interesting  theory,  possible,  but 
not  probable,  that  flies,  so  frequently 
seen  hovering  around  windows,  are  at- 
tracted because  of  inorganic  matter  there 
condensed.  Certainly  on  the  inside  we 
may  expect  moisture  from  expiration, 
also  moisture  from  gases,  and  par- 
ticles thrown  off  by  coughing,  sneezing, 
etc.,  which  may  carry  disease  germs. 

*'Yes,"  again.  The  dirt  on  the  out- 
side of  the  window  interferes  with  the 
amount  of  light  needed  for  a  healthful 
house.  In  most  homes  windows  are 
cleaned  rather  more  frequently  than 
health  alone  would  demand,  shining 
windows  having  come  to  be  to  a  house 
that  ''hall-mark  of  respectability"  that 
well  cared  for  finger  nails  are  to  those 
who  dwell  in  the  house.  The  best  "rule" 
for  window  cleaning  is,  not  this  soap 
nor  that  powder,  but,  whatever  your 
method,  do  a  little  often.  It  saves 
strength  and  money. 

Methods  of  prevention:  An  "ounce  of 
prevention"  having  been  established  as 
our  "cure,"  it  were  well  to  look  to  the 
ventilation  of  the  house.  If  your  kitchen 
is  so  badly  ventilated  that  the  smoke 
from  your  frying-pan  goes  all  through 
the  house,  do  not  expect  your  window- 
washing  to  be  either  easy  or  cheap.  A 
second  prevention  would  be  to  form  the 
habit  of  dusting  the  panes  as  well  as 
the  sashes.  From  the  inside  there  should 
be    frequent,    perhaps    daily    dusting   of 


sashes  and  frames.  The  outside  of  the 
window  is,  to  some  extent,  cared  for  by 
Nature  when  she  "sends  showers  upon 
them."  But  the  outside  soil,  being 
largely  mineral  matter,  will  scratch,  and 
should  therefore  be  brushed  off  as  fre- 
quently as  possible. 

Dangers:  That  same  fear  of  danger 
to  the  window  itself  would  lead  us  to 
avoid  as  frictional  agent  any  sharp, 
coarse  material.  A  scratch  is  the  be- 
ginning of  a  break.  Sudden  changes  in 
temperature,  too,  may  bring  about 
breaks.  There. may  be  danger  to  the 
person  in  getting  at  the  window.  The 
best  way  is  to  begin  on  the  outside,  but 
from  the  inside.  Then,  when  the  inside 
is  done,  you  can  tell  whether  or  not  your 
window  is  clean  and  transparent.  (In 
building  a  house,  remember  that  double 
thick  glass  is  far  clearer.  It  is  not 
necessary  for  all  the  windows.)  Begin 
by- 

(1)  Partially  lowering  the  outer  sash, 
reaching  over  as  far  as  the  arm  can  go. 
Then  complete  the  lowering  of  the  outer 
sash,  raise  the  inner  sash  to  the  same 
position,  and   repeat  as  before. 

(2)  Raise  both  sashes  and  from  the 
under  side  reach  up  and  finish  the  out- 
side of  the  outer  sash. 

(3)  Raise  the  outer  sash,  repeat  as 
before,  and  finish  the  outside  of  the 
lower  sash. 

(4)  Clean  the  inner  sash,  raise,  pull 
down  the  outer  sash,  and  clean  it.  It 
were  well  to  note  that  sitting  on  a  ledge^ 


WINDOW  WASHING 


489 


feet  in,  is  not  dangerous,  if  the  heavy, 
part  of  the  body  is  kept  inside  the  room. 
There  is,  however,  some  danger  of  strain- 
ing. 

Processes  of  Window  Cleaning:  Such 
being  the  method  of  handHng  a  window, 
it  remains  to  consider  the  processes  in- 
volved in  its  cleaning.  Remove,  or  push 
away  all  draperies.  Take  down  or  roll 
the  shade  to  the  top;  and  brush  the 
blinds  as  far  as  possible.  The  field  being 
so  cleared  for  action,  dust  first,  better 
with  a  cloth  than  with  a  brush.  Then 
wash.  The  necessity  of  rinsing  will  de- 
pend on  the  method  employed  in  clean- 
ing. Drying  and  polishing  follow.  If 
the  drying  of  the  panes  is  done  with 
much  force,  they  may  not  require  fur- 
ther polishing.  For  the  sashes,  polishing 
will  probably  include  oiling.  You  may 
have  to  go  back  to  wipe  dry  the  sashes, 
if  they  need  to  be  left  to  soak  in  oil. 

Cloths:  For  dusting  use  a  cloth  soft 
and  rough  in  the  sense  of  wooly,  not 
rough  to  feel.  This  does  not  mean  wool ; 
for  flannel  is  expensive,  hard  to  -wash, 
and  gets  hard  itself.  Cheesecloth, 
medium  grade,  and  unbleached,  is  about 
the  best. 

For  washing,  wool  holds  the  most 
moisture,  but  takes  it  slowly.  Linen 
takes  quickly,  and  holds  fairly  well.  Old 
linen  is  good,  old  table  linen,  for  ex- 
ample. But  linen  is  rather  too  valuable 
for  medical  purposes  to  use  this  way. 
Old  cotton,  old  sheets  are  good,  if  not 
so  old  as  to  be  linty.  Old  underwear 
(gauze  undervests)  make  very  good 
cleaning  cloths.  (Say  "cloths,"  not 
"rags"  to  a  maid.  It  engenders  more 
respect  for  the  article,  and  is  likely  to 
secure  for  it  greater  care.) 

Absorption  is  the  point  to  be  con- 
sidered in  a  drying  cloth.  If  it  had  not 
a  higher  value,  linen  would  be  the  fabric 
par  excellence  for  this.  Cheesecloth  is 
very  good.  For  polishing  chamois  is 
fine,  but  expensive,  and  one  must  know 
how  to  wash  it.  Newspapers  do  excel- 
lent polishing. 


Methods:  Consider  the  kind  of  glass, 
the  weather,  and  the  temperature,  then 
choose  that  method  which  best  satisfies 
these  conditions  at  the  time. 

Use  of  Water:  Make  it  a  rule  to  use 
as  little  as  possible;  never  enough  to 
run.  That  piles  up  rubbing  for  you.  A 
damp  chamois  does  excellent  work  for 
cleaning.  Many  people  use  three 
chamois. 

Ammonia:  On  fine  plate  glass  windows 
clear  water,  preferably  tepid,  may  be 
used  with  advantage.  Hot  water  evapo- 
rates too  soon,  and  cold  water  does  not 
attack  grease.  A  little  bit  of  ammonia 
is  safe  and  acts  much  quicker  on  the 
windows.  Being  an  alkali,  it  will  cut 
grease.  Being  a  volatile  alkali,  it  would 
evaporate  in  hot  water. 

Cider  Vinegar:  Two  tablespoons  of 
cider  vinegar  to  a  quart  of  tepid  water 
does  very  well  for  windows.  Rain  water 
contains  many  acids,  which  film  the  out- 
side of  the  window.  Vinegar  (cider) 
acts  on  this. 

Hydrochloric  Acid:  A  twenty  per  cent, 
solution  of  hydrochloric  acid  is  all  right. 
In  bad  cases,  use  straight  acid. 

Soapsuds:  Soap  combines  alkali,  which 
we  must  have  for  grease.  But  soapsuds 
take  more  water  for  rinsing,  and  there- 
fore take  a  little  more  time  and  a  great 
deal  more  rubbing. 

Kerosene  in  Water:  A  little  kerosene 
in  water,  one  or  two  tablespoons  to  the 
quart,  is  excellent  for  window  cleaning. 
It  removes  grease,  and  adds  a  fine  polish. 

Kerosene  Alone:  Kerosene  alone?  If 
freezing  weather,  water  will  not  do. 
Kerosene  or  alcohol  will  not  freeze  at 
ordinary  freezing  point. 

Alcohol:  Alcohol  is  expensive,  and 
evaporates  almost  too  quickly.  Wood 
alcohol  is  not  so  good.  The  same  is 
true  of  denatured  alcohol. 

Fly  Specks:  Fly  specks  are  organic 
matter  hardened  on  the  window.  For 
scraping,  use  something  that  is  dull, 
smooth,  and  hard,  as  a  silver  knife,  or 
the  back  of  a  steel  one.     A  coin,  pro- 


490 


THE    BOSTON     COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


vided  it  has  smooth  edges,  is  excellent. 
Milled  edges,  as  on  a  silver  coin,  tend 
to  scratch.  Strong  ammonia,  or  alcohol 
aids  in  dissolving  fly  specks. 

Paint  Spots:  Try  turpentine,  or  strong 
washing  soda,  and  scrape. 

Putty:  Try  scraping. 

Whitewash:  If  rubbed  while  fresh,  a 
dry  flannel  is  often  all  that  is  needed. 
If  old,  try  vinegar. 

Cautions:  1.  Do  not  wash  windows 
when  the  sun  is  shining  on  them.  They 
will  dry  unevenly,  streaking.  The  glare 
on  the  windows  is  a  dangerous  eye- 
strain. 

2.  Do  not  let  ammonia,  alcohol,  or 
strong  alkalis  drip  or  rest  on  the  wood 
or  varnish.    Kerosene  will  do  them  good. 

3.  Either  leave  a  window  open,  or 
^hut  and  locked. 


4.  A\"hen  cleaning,  look  at  the  window 
from  different  angles. 

5.  Be  sure  that  the  corners  are  clean 
and  dry.  A  skewer  is  good  for  getting 
into  the  corners.    A  blunt  pencil  will  do. 

6.  Hitting  the  screens  with  the  hand 
every  morning  throws  the  dust  out.  The 
outside  may  be  washed. 

7.  A  good  window  brush  should  have 
a  mount  bored  with  two  holes.  See  that 
the  bristles  are  not  glued  in.  The  glue 
will  dissolve. 

8.  A  sponge  may  be  used,  but  it  is 
hard  to  keep  sweet  and  clean.  A  hose 
is  fairly  good. 

9.  A  squilgee  is  a  piece  of  wood  with 
a  Httle  edge  of  hard  rubber,  and  a  long 
handle.  It  is  useful  for  scraping  down 
moisture,  especially  where  a  hose  has 
been  used. 


In  the  Swing 

By  Helen  Coale  Crew 

Under  the  apple  tree's  blossoming  boughs, 
Swing   high,    swing   low,   swing  high ! 

Come  leave  behind  the   green   of  the  grass. 

Come   soar   to   the   blue   of    the   sky ! 

And  oh,  but  the  world  is  beautiful. 
Swinging    so    high,    so    high ! 

The  blossoms   float  down   from    overhead ; 

Swing  over,   sw^ng  under,   swing  over ! 
And    oh,    the    swift    rush    through    the    fresh, 
free  air. 

And  oh,  the  sweet  smell  of  the  clover  I 
And  all  the  shadows  are  left  behind, 

Swinging  so  airily  over ! 

The  sturdy   branches  creak  and  bend ; 

Sw' ing  away,   swing   away,   swing   away ! 
Come   drink  of  the  sunlight  that  pours   from 

the   sky, 
And  bathe  in   the   blossoms   of   May ! 
Then   dip   again   to  the   glad,   green    earth. 

Swinging    away,    away ! 


Contributions   to  this   department  will    be  gladly  received.     Accepted  items   will  be 
paid  for  at  reasonable  rates. 


Croquette  Making  Again 

THE  observations  of  "one  who  has 
had  long  practice  in  croquette 
making"  impels  me  to  offer  some  sug- 
gestions also  learned  in  a  long  experi- 
ence in  making  them  for  sale  (every 
moment  counts  when  one  has  an  order 
"right  away").  The  point  about  diluting 
egg  for  dipping  is  quite  right — it  should 
be  done  even  if  eggs  were  only  ten  cents 
a  dozen,  in  order  to  ensure  a  delicate 
crust;  it  is  a  saving,  too,  both  of  time 
and  of  drips  and  daubs,  to  dip  all  the 
croquettes  first  and  lay  them  to  drain 
on  a  pan  that  has  been  slightly  tilted, 
then  the  hands  can  be  cleaned  and  dried 
for  the  following  steps : — Have  plenty  of 
crumbs ;  the  more  there  are  on  the  table — 
no  boards — the  less  will  be  used ;  take  at 
least  a  quart  of  crumbs  for  even  a  half 
dozen.  Roll  each  croquette  lightly  across 
the  mat  of  crumbs,  one  can  roll  sixty 
in  a  minute;  pick  them  up  one  in  each 
hand  and  pat  each  end  in  the  crumbs, 
the  jar  will  throw  off  superfluous  crumbs ; 
lay  them  in  tidy  rows  on  the  tray  or 
board  which  takes  them  to  the  frying 
pan.  Except  for  the  more  delicate  kinds 
one  crumbing  will  be  found  sufficient,  or 
at  most  two  crumbings,  but  only  one 
egging — the  crust  should  be  as  thin  as 
will  hold  its  contents. 

When  the  fat  is  hot  enough  to  light 
a  match  on  its  surface,  slide  in  a  cro- 
quette, in  five  seconds  another,  and  so  on 
until  there  are  four  in  the  frying  pan — 
take  out  the  first  and  add  another  im- 
mediately at  the  other  end  of  the  row — 


dry  the  hot  croquette  on  a  folded  paper, 
or  if  there  are  many  to  be  dried,  let  it 
drain  first  in  a  wire  basket  set  on  a  tin 
plate  so,  that  the  fat  may  be  returned 
after  all  are  done.  Then  remove  the 
frying  pan  at  once  from  the  heat  and 
put  in  a  tablespoonful  or  more,  according 
to  the  quantity,  of  cold  fat,  so  that  it 
will  not  go  on  browning  unnecessarily. 
When  the  fat  has  cooled  so  that  it  can 
be  handled  comfortably,  tie  a  piece  of 
cheese  cloth  over  the  top  of  a  gallon 
tin  can,  pour  over  the  fat,  slip  a  large 
paper  bag  over  the  whole  and  set  it  away 
where  it  will  be  safe  from  mice  or  other 
meddlers.  When  it  is  cool  the  cake  of 
crumbs  will  peel  off  the  cloth  and  can 
be  burned  or  given  to  the  chickens ;  the 
cloth  can  be  used  several  times  before 
it  is  clogged  with  crumbs,  and  then 
cleaned  by  scalding  in  soda  water  or 
burned,  just  as  time  or  cheese  cloth  is 
more  valuable.  m.  l.  c. 

¥^    ^   '^ 

Tiny  Tomatoes  for  Decoration 

SOME  very  small  varieties  of  toma- 
toes are  now  grown;  they  are  called 
the  grape,  the  cherry,  or  the  currant 
tomatoes.  Seeds  may  be  obtained  of 
leading  seedsmen,  and  they  are  not 
difficult  to  grow. 

While  their  chief  use  is  as  a  garnish 
for  many  dishes  and  salads,  they  can  be 
used  for  pickles,  just  as  pickled  red 
barberries  set  off  green  gherkin  pickles. 
Wash  them  well  and  put  them  into  cold 
spiced  vinegar,  because  hot  vinegar 
would  cause  the  skins  to  crack  and  turn 


491 


492 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


back.     Allow  a  little  more  time  for  the 
vinegar  to  penetrate. 

Xew  Variations  of  Yellow  Tomato 
Presence 

Although  this  preserve  is  an  old-time 
and  well  known  favorite,  still  variations 
occurring  to  the  minds  of  bright  house- 
keepers are  worth  considering. 

Some  recently  enjoyed  in  a  Pennsyl- 
vania home  was  attractive  to  both  eye 
and  palate.  It  was  kept  in  delicate  slices, 
not  cooked  down  to  a  jam.  The  flavor- 
ing was  lemon,  but  the  addition  of  apple 
juice  gave  it  originality,  heightening  the 
flavor.  For  a  jam  for  home  use  a  good 
sized  admixture  of  apple  is  admissible. 

Another  method  pursued  by  this  bright 
young  woman,  who  thus  made  use  of  a 
large  supply  of  this  pretty  fruit  that 
would  otherwise  have  been  wasted,  was 
to  combine  it  with  green  grapes,  making 
another  kind  of  delicious  preserve.  As 
grapes  in  this  section  were  not  \ery 
abundant,  the  tomatoes  provided  bulk, 
and  the  green  grapes  gave  a  fine  flavor. 

The  writer  gave  her  the  suggestion  of 
using  pineapple  with  these  same  yellow 
tomatoes.  This  makes  a  high  flavored 
preser\x,  yet  the  tomatoes  make  it 
tenderer  and  less  expensive  than  if  made 
entirely  of  pineapples. 

This  pineapple  idea  was  obtained  from 
the  English  and  Boer  housekeepers  of 
South  Africa,  where  they  use  the  little 
husk  tomatoes,  which  grow  like  weeds 
when  once  started.  There  they  are 
called  the  "Cape  gooseberry."  Either 
these  or  the  larger,  yellow  pear-shaped 
tomatoes  may  be  used  for  these  pre- 
serv^es.  At  a  London  exposition  of 
the  fruit  from  the  African  colonies  these 
tomato  preserv^es   were  shown. 

\'anilla  beans  may  be  cooked  with  the 
preserve  and  this  flavor  is  liked  by  many, 
while  ginger  is  admissible,  alone,  or 
with  lemon  for  some  families,  although 
these  combinations  are  not  so  univer- 
sallv  liked  as  those  first  mentioned. 


The  little  husk  tomatoes  are  handy 
fruits,  since  they  may  be  gathered  be- 
fore they  are  perfectly  ripe  and  left  in 
a  cool  storeroom  until  yellow,  and  easily 
husked  out  of  their  strawberry-shaped 
hulls. 

The  variety  known  as  the  ''Cape 
gooseberry"  is  like  ours,  except  it  is 
somewhat  tart,  and  the  plant  itself 
varies  as  to  erect  habit,  etc.  j.  d.  c. 

*  ^  ^ 

I     SHOULD   like   to   contribute   what 
I    call    the    best    receipt    for    old- 
fashioned  brown  bread. 

Take  a  quart  of  meal  and  a  quart  of 
fluid.  (The  quart  of  meal  is  composed 
of  two-thirds  rye  meal  and  one-third 
corn  meal.  The  quart  of  fluid  is  one 
cup  of  good  molasses  and  the  remainder 
of  milk.)  One  egg,  one  teaspoonful  of 
soda  dissolved  in  this  quart  of  fluid. 
Mix  well  together  the  quart  of  dry  with 
quart  of  fluid,  with  or  without  raisins, 
and  let  boil  four  hours.  This  is  the 
kind  of  brown  bread  our  grandmothers 
used  to  make.  b.  b. 

*  *  ^ 

TO  clean  brass  pour  strong  ammonia 
on  it.  then  scrub  well  with  a  brush, 
rinse  in  cold  water,  and  polish  with  a 
soft  dry  cloth.  Lacquered  brass  should 
be  washed  occasionally  with  warm, 
soapy  water,  and  then  dried  with  a  soft 
cloth,  and  polished  with  a  chamois  skin. 

If  your  cooking  utensils  have  a  habit 
of  burning,  or  the  articles  stick  easily, 
try  boiling  a  little  vinegar  in  same.  It 
acts  like  magic,  especially  with  heavy 
skillets  or  kettles. 

Pour  scalding  water  over  oranges  that 
you  wish  to  peel,  and  let  them  stand  five 
minutes.  You  will  save  time  in  peeling 
them.  The  thick  white  skin  that  is 
usually  so  hard  to  remove  will  readily 
come  off  with  the  outside  peeling,  and 
the  fruit  will  be  readv  to  slice. 


HOME  IDEAS  AND  ECONOMIES 


493 


Never  take  time  to  grate  chocolate. 
Put  the  desired  quantity  in  a  granite  or 
porcelain  sauce  pan  and  set  it  in  the  top 
of  the  teakettle  until  melted. 

After  opening  a  bottle  of  glue  or 
cement,  rub  mutton  tallow  on  a  sound 
cork  before  inserting  it  in  the  bottle, 
which  will  prevent  the  cork  from  stick- 
ing fast  to  the  neck  of  the  bottle,  and 
breaking,  when  an  attempt  is  made  to 
remove  it. 

Use  a  stiff  vegetable  brush  to  clean 
celery,  scraping  off  the  rusty  spots  with 
a  silver  knife. 

The  worst  soiled  or  dingy  towels  will 
become  sweet  and  white  with  this  treat- 
ment. Cover  with  cold  water  and  set 
them  on  the  back  of  the  range.  Add  a 
little  shaved,  pure,  white  soap,  and  the 
juice  of  a  lemon.  Let  the  water  come 
to  a  boil  gradually.  If  very  much  soiled 
repeat  the  process.  Rinse  in  tepid  water 
and  then  in  cold  water. 

To  keep  a  cabbage  fresh  and  crisp 
when  only  half  a  head  is  used,  wrap 
loose  leaves  over  cut  part  and  wrap  in 
wet  paper  and  put  in  a  cool  place.  It 
will  keep  fresh  for  weeks. 

Never  keep  bread  and  cake  in  the 
same  box,  as  the  cake  looses  its  flavor 
and  tastes  like  bread. 

Many  a  dainty  kandkerchief  comes 
from  the  laundry  all  out  of  shape  and 
folded  crooked.  To  iron  handkerchiefs, 
napkins,  or  any  small  squares  so  they 
will  fold  perfectly  even,  iron  all  around 
the  outside  first.  Hold  each  side  toward 
you  on  a  straight  line,  stretching  it 
firmly  as  you  iron ;  iron  the  center  last 
and  you  will  find  the  edges  fold  together 
exactly  even. 

A  convenient  cleaner,  for  use  on 
clothes,    may    be    made    of    cheesecloth 


fashioned  into  a  bag  three  inches  square. 
Fill  the  bag  with  five  cents  worth  of 
soap  bark  and  sew  up  the  end.  When 
wanted  for  use  place  the  bag  in  a  basin 
of  warm  water,  and  use  as  a  sponge  on 
the  article  to  be  cleaned,  wiping  with  a 
dry  cloth.  After  using  let  the  bag  dry 
thoroughly  and  it  will  be  ready  for  an- 
other time. 

To  open  fruit  cans  that  are  obstinate 
hold  them  for  a  few  moments  under 
the  hot  water  faucet,  letting  the  hot 
water  run  over  the  top. 

You  can  polish  your  nickle  kitchen 
utensils  by  rubbing  them  while  hot  with 
a  soft  cloth  dipped  in  flour.  If  any  flour 
remains  around  the  handles,  it  can  easily 
be  removed  with  a  small  brush.  a.  t. 
^  ^  ^ 

'THE  GLORY  OF  A  HOUSE." 

WITHOUT  hospitality  there  can  be 
no  real  home.  But  true  hospital- 
ity does  not  mean  teas  and  receptions 
and  dinners.  It  means,  rather,  the 
housewife's  achievement  in  saving  from 
the  daily  food  and  room  and  home  joy 
a  portion  for  the  guest,  casual  or  invited. 

The  home  that  itself  consumes  its 
whole  store  of  these  is  in  danger  of  im- 
poverishment through  some  unexpected 
emergency.  The  home  that  tries  to 
supply  them  too  lavishly  is  in  danger  of 
bankruptcy  in  the  very  things  that,  both 
materially  and  spiritually,  are  most 
essential. 

No  home  can  express  hospitality  by 
opening  merely  its  doors  to  visitors ;  it 
must  open  its  heart  as  well,  and  it  must 
open  its  heart  first.  Moreover,  the  habit 
of  entertaining  on  a  grand  scale  very 
soon  stifles  the  spirit  of  hospitality. 
Hospitality  is  so  fine  a  thing  that  it  can- 
not coexist  with  strained  and  expensive 
entertaining — entertaining  that  is  cheap, 
for  all  that  it  is  expensive,  because  it 
can  be  bought  for  money. 

Youth's  Companion. 


THIS  department  is  for  the  benefit  and  free  use  of  our  subscribers.  Questions  relating 
to  recipes,  and  those  pertaining  to  culinary  science  and  domestic  economics  in  general,  will 
be  cheerfully  answered  by  the  editor.  Communications  for  this  department  must  reach  us  before  the 
first  of  the  month  preceding  that  in  which  the  answers  are  expected  to  appear.  In  letters  requesting 
answers  by  mail,  please  enclose  addressed  and  stamped  envelope.  For  menus  remit  $1.00.  Address 
queries  to  Janet  M.  Hill,  editor,  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine,  372  Boylston  St.,  Boston,  Mass. 


Query  1716. — ''Should  tomatoes  and  creamed 
potatoes  be  served  at  the  same  meal?  The 
best  grade  of  rice  sometimes  turns  green 
when  it  is  cooked ;  what  is  the  cause  of  this  ? 
Is  the  scum  that  rises  on  the  top  of  jelly 
composed    of    impurities?" 

Tomatoes  and  Creamed  Potatoes 
at  Same  Meal 

The  question  of  food  combinations 
and  of  food  substances  that  one  may  eat 
without  digestive  disturbance  is  largely 
individual  rather  than  general.  The  in- 
quirer probably  has  in  mind  the  advisa- 
bility of  combining  the  acid  in  the 
tomato  with  milk  and  a  starchy  vegetable 
like  potatoes.  In  reality  the  quantity  of 
acid  present  in  tomatoes  is  very  slight. 
Stewed  tomatoes  alone,  or  as  an  in- 
gredient in  macaroni  or  similar  dishes 
are  considered  entirely  unobjectionable. 
Fresh,  ripe  tomatoes,  eaten  raw,  without 
vinegar,  are  considered  beneficial  rather 
than  otherwise.  Tomatoes  with  mayon- 
naise or  a  dressing  of  cream,  in  which 
the  measure  of  acid  is  kept  low,  are  con- 
sidered wholesome.  The  slight  acid  In 
the  tomato  and  in  the  dressing  is  modi- 
fied by  the  fat  of  the  dressing.  Taking 
these  things  into  consideration,  we  see 
no  reason  why,  in  general,  tomatoes  and 
creamed  potatoes  might  not  be  eaten  at 
the  same  meal.  There  would  seem  to 
be  no  special  call  for  the  two  being 
eaten  together,  raw  tomatoes  being 
naturally  served  near  the  close  of  a  meal, 
but  there  would  seem  to  be  no  grave 
reason   why   they    should   not   be   eaten 


together  by  anyone  in  normal  health. 
Canned  tomatoes,  acid  enough  to  call 
for  soda,  have  undergone  a  chemical 
change   that   unfits   them   for   food. 

Green  Color  in  Cooked  Rice 

Possibly  the  greenish  tint  seen  in  some 
cooked  rice  may  be  due  to  the  variety 
of  the  rice.  This  appearance  in  cooked 
rice  has  been  brought  to  our  attention 
several  times  of  late.  It  has  been  sug- 
gested that  the  color  might  be  due  to 
some  mineral  matter  present  in  the  water 
in  which  the  cooking  was  done,  but  we 
are  inclined  to  think  that  the  greenish 
hue  depends  upon  the  variety  of  rice. 

Composition  of   Scum  on  Jelly 

There  are  always  some  impurities  in 
the  scum  removed  from  the  mixture  of 
sugar  and  fruit  juice  boiling  for  jelly ; 
this  is  particularly  the  case  with  the 
first  ''scum"  that  is  removed.  Almost 
always  some  impurities  may  be  removed 
from  the  side  of  the  saucepan  when 
simply  sugar  and  water  are  boiled  for 
syrup.  In  jelly  making  there  might  be 
other  impurities  from  the  fruit,  also 
some  other  bodies  present  in  the  fruit 
juice  are  found  in  the  scum,  these  are 
removed  because  they  interfere  with  the 
transparency  of  the  finished  product. 
Such  bodies  seem  to  have  more  solidity 
than  the  rest  of  the  juice. 


Query  1717.— "Recipe  for  'Cream  Fig  Pie.' 


494 


QUERIES  AND  ANSWERS 


495 


Cream  Fig  Pie 

We  are  in  doubt  as  to  just  the  sort 
of  recipe  desired.  In  the  December, 
1910,  issue  of  this  magazine  two  recipes 
for  'Tig  Cake"  were  given.  The  first 
of  these  we  have  often  seen  served  as 
''Washington  Pie."  By  finishing  this 
cake  with  a  covering  of  whipped  cream, 
instead  of  the  powdered  sugar  given 
in  the  recipe,  a  "Cream  Fig  Pie"  might 
be  evoked.  If  a  pastry  crust  is  desired, 
the  following  recipe  might  be  used : 

Cream  Fig  Pie 


i  a     teaspoonful 
salt 


of 


f  a  lb.  of  figs 
Juice  of  I  lemon 
\  a  cup  of  sugar 

Cook  the  figs  and  chop  fine ;  add  the 
other  ingredients  with  half  a  cup  of  the 
water  in  which  the  figs  were  cooked  and 
let  simmer  till  of  a  good  consistency. 
Bake  pastry  over  an  inverted  pie  plate 
(tin),  first  pricking  it  well,  to  avoid 
blistering,  then  remove  from  plate  to  a 
serving  plate,  fill  with  the  cold  fig  mix- 
ture and  pipe  whipped  cream  above. 
The  filling  may  also  be  baked  in  the 
plate  lined  with  pastry,  then  when  cold 
pipe  cream  above  the  fig  mixture. 


Query  1718. — "How  many  sandwiches  and 
how  much  ice-cream,  salad,  lemonade,  cake 
and  black  coffee  are  required  for  thirty 
people?  Also  how  many  lemons  are  needed 
for  a  gallon  of  lemonade,  and  how  much 
mayonnaise    to   a   gallon   of    salad?" 

Quantity  of  Food  for  30  People 

The  quantity  of  food  to  provide  for 
thirty  people  depends  upon  the  time  of 
day  at  which  the  food  is  to  be  served 
and  upon  the  manner  of  serving.  More 
food  needs  to  be  provided  for  guests  sit- 
ting at  tables,  who  help  themselves  from 
supplies  on  the  table  or  supplies  passed  by 
waiters,  than  for  guests,  who  are  passed 
food  on  individual  plates  in  two  courses, 
as  salad  and  sandwiches,  then  cake  and 
ice-cream.  Not  more  than  two  sand- 
wiches of  small  size  would  be  passed 
on  a  plate,  and  a  gallon  of  salad  would 
serve  forty.     A  gallon  of  ice-cream  and 


two  or  three  cakes  might  be  served  to 
forty,  but  a  gallon  is  none  too  much  to 
allow  for  thirty  people.  A  gallon  of 
lemonade  or  of  coffee  is  a  fair  allow- 
ance for  thirty.  Sixteen  lemons  ^,are 
sufficient  for  a  generous  gallon  of  lemon- 
ade. The  quality  of  mayonnaise  required 
will  depend  somewhat  on  the  kind  of 
salad,  also  whether  French  dressing  is 
used  in  connection  with  the  mayonnaise. 
A  quart  of  mayonnaise  dressing  will 
dress  four  quarts  of  plain  lobster  served 
on  lettuce  hearts.  Probably  nearly  twice 
as  much  dressing  would  be  needed  with 
chicken  and  celery.  The  dressing  would 
be  mixed  with  the  celery  and  chicken 
(the  latter  marinated  with  French  dress- 
ing and  drained)  but  lobster  is  made 
stringy  by  handling,  thus  a  spoonful  of 
plain  lobster  would  be  set  on  the  lettuce 
and  a  small  teaspoonful  of  the  dressing 
above. 


Query  1719. — "How  are  'mushrooms  for 
broiling  and  serving  on  toast  prepared?' 
Kindly  repeat  the  recipe  given  in  this  maga- 
zine about  four  years  ago  for  'Beef  a  la 
Mode';  also  give  recipe  for  'After  Dinner 
Coffee.'  " 

Preparation  of  Mushrooms  for 
Broiling 

Remove  the  stems  and  peel  the  caps. 
To  peel  begin  at  the  edge  and  draw  off 
the  thin  skin  from  the  edge  to  the  center, 
use  a  thin  sharp-pointed  knife.  Brush 
over  the  caps  on  both  sides  with  olive 
oil  or  melted  butter,  set  them,  gill-side 
up,  in  a  double  broiler  and  let  cook,  first 
on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other,  until 
thoroughly  hot  and  softened  throughout. 
Set  them,  gill-side  up,  on  rounds  of 
buttered  toast,  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper  and  put  a  bit  of  butter  in  the 
center  of  each  cap.  Hot,  scalded  cream 
may  be  poured  over  the  mushrooms  and 
toast,  if  desired. 

Braised  Rump  of  Beef 

Have  the  bones  removed  from  the 
cut  of  beef  known  as  the  "back  of  the 
rump."     Roll  the  meat  lengthwise,  and 


496 


THE    BOSTOX    COOKIXG-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


tie  securely  in  several  places.  Have  hot 
in  a  pan  fat  from  salt  pork  or  bacon. 
In  this  saute  and  turn  the  rolled  meat, 
to  brown  it  on  all  sides.  In  a  large 
earthen  casserole  (or  any  dish  that  may 
be  covered  closely)  spread  a  layer  of 
vegetables,  cut  fine  (use  one  or  two 
onions,  one  carrot,  half,  if  large,  two  or 
three  stalks  of  celery,  a  bay  leaf,  and 
sprig  of  parsley).  Put  the  meat  on  the 
vegetables.  Pour  in  two  cups  of  broth 
or  hot  water,  and  let  cook  on  the  top 
of  the  range  until  the  liquid  is  well  re- 
duced, then  sprinkle  with  salt,  and  add 
hot  water  to  half  cover  the  meat.  Put 
the  cover  on  the  dish,  and  set  the  dish 
in  the  oven.  Let  cook  in  a  slow^  oven 
five  or  six  hours.  Take  up  the  meat, 
and  remove  the  strings.  Strain  the 
liquid,  and  put  the  meat  back  in  the 
pan.  Add  to  the  broth  a  cup  of  Madeira 
wine.  Pour  the  broth  and  wine  over 
the  meat,  and  return  the  dish  to  the 
oven.  Let  cook  half  an  hour,  uncovered, 
basting  six  or  seven  times  with  the  liquid, 
to  glaze  the  meat.  Have  ready,  cooked 
tender,  six  or  more  potatoes,  trimmed 
to  the  shape  and  size  of  pigeons'  eggs, 
a  dozen  chestnuts,  a  dozen  very  small 
onions,  a  dozen  and  a  half  of  balls  cut 
from  carrots,  and  green  string  beans. 
Glaze  all  the  prepared  vegetables  but  the 
string  beans  in  some  of  the  broth.  When 
all  are  ready,  cut  the  meat  in  transverse 
slices  of  equal  thickness,  and  dispose 
these  in  the  middle  of  a  large  platter. 
Put  the  vegetables  in  groups  around  the 
meat,  with  string  beans  between  the 
several  groups.  Ser\^e  the  liquid  in  a 
bowl.  The  fat  should  be  removed  from 
the  liquid  after  it  is  strained  and  before 
it  is  used  to  glaze  the  meat.  The  wine 
may  be  omitted.  This  dish  is  prepared 
for  ser\-ing  "at  the  side."  If  car\^ed  at 
the  table,  the  garnishings  should  be 
served   in   separate  dishes. 

This  recipe  appeared  in  the  magazine 
under  the  heading  as  given  above  rather 
than  as  ''Beef  a  la  Mode" ;  the  two 
dishes   are  practically  the  same,   though 


"Beef  a  la  Mode"  is  more  often  cooked 
in  an  iron  kettle  on  the  top  of  the  range 
than  in  a  casserole.  If  this  be  not  the 
recipe  desired,  we  will  look  again. 

After  Dinner  Coffee 

Allow  one  rounding  tablespoonful  of 
coffee  and  half  a  cup  of  water  for  each 
person  to  be  served,  but  plan  for  tw^o 
extra  persons,  as  the  last  cup  of  coflfee 
will  not  pour  out  as  clear  as  the  others. 
]\Iix  the  cofifee  with  the  crushed  shells 
of  several  eggs  (or  use  white  of  egg 
slightly  beaten — in  the  proportion  of  one 
white  to  a  cup  of  ground  cofifee)  and 
enough  cold  w^ater  to  mix  thoroughly; 
pour  on  the  required  quantity  of  boiling 
water  and  let  boil  five  minutes ;  pour  one- 
fourth  a  cup  of  cold  w^ater  through  the 
nozzle  and  let  stand  where  the  coffee 
will  keep  hot  without  boiling  five  or  six 
minutes.  Filtered  coifee  should  be  made 
according  to  the  directions  sent  wdth  the 
special  pot  used. 


Query  1720.  —  "Recipe  for  'Chocolate 
Brownies.'  " 

Chocolate  Brownies 

1  cup  of  sugar  I  a      teaspoonful      of 

i  a     cup     of     melted   {  vanilla 

butter  !  i  a  cup  of  flour 

1  egg,  unbeaten  j  i  a  cup  of  pecan  nut 

2  ounces  of  chocolate,   '  meats    broken    in 

melted  j  pieces 

Stir  the  sugar  into  the  butter;  add 
the  tgg,  melted  chocolate,  vanilla,  flour 
and  nuts,  in  the  order  given.  Line  a 
square,  seven-inch  pan  with  waxed 
paper.  Spread  the  brownie  mixture 
evenly  in  the  pan  and  bake  in  a  slow 
oven.  When  baked  turn  at  once  upon 
a  wire  cooler,  remove  the  paper  and 
with  a  sharp  knife  cut  the  cake  in  strips 
an   inch   wide. 


Query    1721.— "Kindly    tell     how    to    bake 
Angel  Food  and  Puff-Paste." 

Directions  for  Baking  Angel  Food 

An  Angel  Cake  made  of  about  a  cup 
of  egg  whites,  in  an  ordinary  tube  pan, 


ADVERTISEMENTS 


WHY  LOWNEY'S  IS  BEST 

^The  reason  for  the  richer  flavor  and  more  nourishing  quality  of  Lowney*s 
Cocoa,  is  because  it  is  purely  the  choicest  cocoa  beans,  ground  finer 
than  flour,  without  adulteration  or  chemical  "  treatment." 
flThe  Dutch  Cocoas  are  rotted  with  strong  alkali  to  make  them  dark 
and  "  soapy ";  of  these  a  State  Food  Commissioner  says :  "  Most  of 
the  alkali  is  active  and  should  not  be  taken  into  the  human  stomach. " 
flNo  cocoa  goes  as  far  in  satisfying  as  LOWNEY'S. 

The  WALTER  M.  LOWNEY  CO,,  Boston,  Mass.,  Cocoa,  Chocolates,  Bonbons 


& 


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usually  requires  fifty  minutes  of  baking. 
Divide  the  time  into  quarters ;  in  the  first 
fifteen  minutes,  the  oven  should  be  of 
such  a  temperature  that  the  cake  changes 
its  appearance  in  no  way  except  by 
rising.  If  the  cake  colors  in  the  least, 
the  oven  is  too  hot,  and  the  heat  must 
be  lowered.  Open  the  oven  door  as 
many  times  as  you  wish,  but  be  sure 
and  close  it  gently.  Move  the  cake  dur- 
ing this  first  quarter  if  necessary,  though 
it  is  better  to  protect  it  with  a  tin  sheet 
or  piece  of  paper.  During  the  second 
quarter,  the  cake  should  rise  to  its  full 
height  and  begin  to  color  in  spots;  in 
the  third  quarter,  it  should  become 
colored  uniformly,  and  in  the  last 
quarter,  settle  a  little.  If  the  cake  re- 
bounds upon  gentle  pressure,  it  is  baked. 

Directions  for  Baking  Puff  Paste 

Puff-paste  should  be  thoroughly  chilled 
— preferably  on  ice — before  it  is  set 
into  the  oven.  The  oven  should  be  rather 
hot.  If  the  paper  on  which  the  paste 
(patties,  vol-au-vent,  etc.)  is  set  in  the 
baking  pan  begins  to  color,  push  an 
asbestos  mat  under  the  pan.  Lower  the 
heat  as  soon  as  the  pastry  has  risen  to 
its  full  height. 


Query    1722.— "Recipe    for    White    Caramel 
Cake." 

White   Caramel   Cake 

la  cup   of  butter 

2  cups  of  sugar 
i  a  cup  of  milk 

3  cups  of  flour 
2  teaspoonfuls    of 

baking    powder 

White  Caramel  Cake  No.  2 


6  whites   of    eggs 
1  teaspoonful    of 
vanilla  extract 


^  a  cup  of  butter 
li  cups  of  sugar 
i  a  cup  of  milk 
2i   cups   of   flour 
i  a    teaspoonful    of 
soda 


I   I  a    teaspoonful    of 
!  cream    of    tartar 

I  (measured    level) 

5  whites  of  egg 
I  1  teaspoonful  of 
i  vanilla  extract 


Caramel  Frosting 


i  a  cup   of   sugar 

caramelized 
i"  a  cup  of  water 
1  cup  of  sugar 
i  a  cup  of  water 


2  whites    of    egg, 

beaten    dry 
I  a     cup      of     pecan 

meats    broken    in 

pieces 


Pour  the  first  one-fourth  cup  of  water 
on  the  caramel  and  let  cook  till  smooth; 
add  the  sugar  and  second  one-fourth  cup 
of  water  and  let  cook  to  240° F.  Pour 
in  a  fine  stream  on  the  whites  of  the 
eggs,  beating  constantly;  return  to  the 
fire,  over  hot  water,  and  stir  constantly 
until  the  mixture  stiffens  a  Httle;  add 
the  nuts  and  spread  on  the  cake.  Score 
with  a  spoon  in  waves.  The  frosting 
should  be  cooked  imtil  it  will  hold  its 
shape  when  set  upon  the  cake. 


Query  1723. — "Recipes  for  Cold  Fruit 
Soup." 

Cold  Fruit  Soups 

The  serving  of  cold  fruit  soups  is  a 
custom  borrowed  from  the  Germans,  and 
is  a  good  way  to  make  use  of  fruits  of 
second  quality  that  could  not  be  pre- 
sented in  a  natural  condition.  These 
soups  are  served  as  a  first  course  at 
luncheon  or  teas  in  little  cups  of  china 
or  glass.  Macaroons  or  any  plain  sweet 
cracker  may  accompany  the  soup.  Sip- 
pets of  toast  are  also  served.  These 
soups,  being  sweetened,  are,  obviously, 
more  appropriate  for  teas  and  banquets 
than  for  luncheons. 

Cherry-and-Pineapple   Soup 

Stone  a  cup  of  sour  cherries,  and  set 
aside  to  serve  in  the  soup.  Cut  one  or 
two  slices  of  pineapple  into  cubes,  and 
set  aside  with  the  cherries.  Grate  the 
rest  of  a  pineapple,  crack  the  cherry 
stones,  and  add  the  kernels,  with  a  pint 
of  cherries  and  a  quart  of  water,  to  the 
grated  pineapple,  let  cook  twenty  min- 
utes. Mix  half  a  cup  of  sugar  with  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  arrowroot,  and  stir  into 
the  hot  soup.  Let  cook  ten  minutes. 
Then  strain,  and  set  aside  to  cool. 

Cold  Currant   Soup 

To  the  currants,  stripped  from  the 
stems,  add  sugar  to  taste.  Crush  thor- 
oughly, cover  and  let  stand  an  hour,  then 
strain.  Mix  the  juice  with  white  wine 
and  water,  half  and  half,  the  juice  of  a 


ADVERTISEMENTS 


^Uust  add  a  dash 
before  serving'' 

It's  really  the  secret  of 
good  cooking 


You  can  be  sure  of  getting  a  genuine  English  Worcestershire 
sauce  when  you  buy  Holbrookes— for  every  bottle  is  made  in 
their  original  English  factory  and  imported  under  seal. 

TT      11  Worcesteilyhire     C^ 

nolbrooKts  oaucc 

Made  and  Bottled  in  England 


P 


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FOR  64  years  the  Eddy  has  seen  all  sorts  of  refriger- 
ators come  and  go.     During  that  time  it  has  been 
the  one  best  refrigerator.     Today  your  dealer  will 
tell  you,  "  There  is  nothing  like  the  Eddy." 

Porcelain  and  glass  linings  are  theoretically  fine. 
Practically^^  they  crack  easily,  dirt  gathers  in  the  cre- 
vices, the  cement  joints  absorb  grease  and  moisture. 
The  Eddy  is  lined  with  zinc,  the  only  perfectly  sanitary 
lining  yet  discovered. 

The  Eddy  is  not  simply  an  ice-box.     It  is  a  refriger- 
ating machine  in  which  ice  economy,  perfect  insulation 
and  absolutely  dry  cold  are  scientifically  worked  out. 
Sixty  sizes.     Freight  prepaid  if  your  dealer  cannot  supply  y  ou. 
The  facts  in  our  catalogue  are  worth  knowing.    Write  for  it. 

D.  Eddy  &  Sons  Company 
333  Adams  Street,  Boston 


% 


J 


Kia: 


k 


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lemon,  and  a  little  ground  cinnamon. 

Strawberry-and-Raspberry  Cold 
Soup 
Wash  the  berries  if  necessary,  put 
them  into  a  soup  tureen,  add  sugar  ac- 
cording to  taste,  cover  and  let  stand  for 
one  hour.  Mix  white  wine  and  water, 
half  and  half,  with  sugar  to  taste;  add 
the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  ground  cinna- 
mon and  pour  over  the  berries. 


Query  1724.— "Recipe  for  'Nut  Cake  baked 
in  a  Loaf,'  Butter  Cookies  which  will  keep 
soft.  Where  may  pastry  and  potato  flour  be 
purchased  at  wholesale?" 

Nut  Cake 


4  whites  of  eggs 

i  a     teaspoonful     of 

vanilla  extract 
1  cup    of    nut    meats 

chopped 


i  a  cup  of  butter 
U  cups  of  sugar 

1  a  cup  of  milk 

2  cups,  of  flour 
2      teaspoonfuls       of 

baking  powder        | 

Mix  in  the  usual  manner,  reserving 
part  of  the  nuts  to  sprinkle  on  the  top 
of  the  cake  mixture  after  it  is  turned  into 
the  baking  pan.    Bake  about  one  hour. 

Soft  Butter  Cookies 

i  a  cup  of  butter  I  2i  cups  of  flour 

1  cup  of  sugar  |  ^     a    teaspoonful    of 

1  beaten  egg  soda 

i  a  cup  of  sour  cream  | 

Mix  in  the  order  given;  drop  from  a 

spoon  on  a  buttered  baking  pan.     Bake 

in  a  moderate  oven. 

Pastry  and  Potato  Flour  at 
Wholesale 

The  S.  S.  Pierce  Co.,  Tremont  Street, 
Boston,  sell  both  pastry  and  potato  flour 
at  wholesale  as  well  as  retail. 


Query  1725. — "Recipe  for  Dessert  made  of 
Irish  Moss." 


Irish  Moss  Jelly 


i  a  cup  of  Irish  Moss 
1      pint      of      boiling 
water 


i  a    cup    of    currant 

jelly 
i  a  cup  of  sugar 


Add  the  boiling  water  and  let  simmer 
until  dissolved  somewhat.  Add  the  jelly 
and  sugar  and  strain  into  a  mold.  Serve 
with  cream  and  sugar.  The  juice  of  one 
large  lemon  may  replace  the  currant 
jelly. 

Irish  Moss  Blanc-Mange 

i  a  cup  of  Irish  Moss  I  i  .  a  teaspoonful  of 
1  quart  of  milk  |  salt 

1  teaspoonful   of    vanilla 

Soak  the  moss  in  cold  water  fifteen 
minutes,  pick  over  and  wash  thoroughly ; 
put  the  moss  in  a  cheesecloth  bag  and 
let  cook  in  the  milk,  over  hot  water,  until 
a  little  dropped  upon  a  cold  plate  thick- 
ens slightly.  Add  the  salt  and  vanilla 
and  turn  into  molds.  One  or  two 
ounces  of  chocolate,  melted  and  cooked 
smooth  with  two  tablespoonfuls,  each,  of 
sugar  and  water  may  be  added  if  desired. 
Serve  with  sugar  and  cream  or  with 
sliced  fresh  or  canned  peaches. 


Let  the  moss  stand  in  cold  water  until 
soft,    pick   over    and    wash    thoroughly. 


Query  1726. — "How  may  meringue  on  pie  or 
pudding  be  kept  from  falling,  and  shrinking 
after  the  dish  is  taken   from  the  oven?" 

Cooking  of  Meringue 

To  secure  tenderness  in  eggs,  rather 
than  toughness,  which  is  shown  by 
''shrinking,"  whatever  the  form  in  which 
they  are  presented,  the  cooking  must  be 
carried  on  at  a  temperature  considerably 
below  the  boiling  point  of  water.  Elas- 
ticity and  toughness  are  just  as  pro- 
nounced in  whites  of  eggs  made  into 
meringue  as  in  eggs  cooked  in  the  shell 
when  the  cooking  has  been  done  at  too 
high  a  temperature.  The  proper  cooking 
of  eggs  in  the  shell  is  a  very  simple  mat- 
ter and  the  first  thing  to  learn  in  cook- 
ing, for  in  it  is  found  the  key  to  the 
proper  cooking  of  all  articles  in  which 
eggs  are  used,  and  also  to  the  cooking 
of  all  proteid  substances.  Meringue, 
spread  over  a  cool — not  necessarily  cold 
— surface  and  set  into  a  very  moderate 
oven  for  about  ten  minutes,  may  then  be 
subjected  to  a  slightly  higher  tempera- 
ture for  a   final  coloring  and  stiffening 


ADVERTISEMENTS 


^r^^^wiT 


TRIPLE    MOTION 

WHITE  MOUNTAIN 

ICE  CREAM  FREEZER 


Here  are  the  sterling  qualities  that  have  given  to  the 
Triple  Motion  White  Mountain  Ice  Cream  Freezer  its 
w^idely  known  name  of  "The  Best  Freezer  in  the  Land.** 

First  of  all,  the  famous  triple  motion — possessed  by  the 
White  Mountain  alone — that  reduces  the  freezing  time  to  a 
minimum.  The  perfect  principle  of  the  revolving  can  and 
duplex  dashers. 

Best  and  most  easy  running  construction.  Tubs  and  cans 
of  the  material  that  means  a  lifetime  of  wear.  Covered 
gears  that  protect  the  hands.  Everything  the  perfect  freezer 
should  have.  And  when  you  buy  a  White  Mountain  Freezer, 
you  buy  as  well  an  established  reputation  for  excellence. 

A  White  Mountain  Freezer  in  your  home  will  mean 
niaximum  satisfaction. 

Send  today  for  our  recipe  book  "Frozen  Dainties."  It  teils 
how  to  prepare  and  serve  scores  of  ice  creams,  water  ices  and 
frappes    that   will    add   to   your    fame  as  a  hostess.     Address 


The  White  Mountain 
Freezer  Co. 

»€pt,AR 
Nashua*  N.  H. 


trade 
mark 
on  the  wra. 


Buy  Advertised   Goods  —  do   not   accept   substitutes 
xiii 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


of  the  egg.  Thus  cooked  the  meringue 
will  not  shrink  perceptibly  from  the 
edge  of  the  dish ;  it  will  not  fall  nor 
will  the  bead-like  drops  of  liquid,  which 
are  a  sure  sign  of  over  cooking,  be  found 
upon  it. 

Query  1727. — "In  a  class  recently  orange, 
sherbet  was  made  by  the  recipe  in  'Practical 
Cooking  and  Serving,'  but  we  were  not  able 
to  freeze  it.  The  sherbet  was  to  be  used  as 
a  filling  for  a  bombe  glace,  and  we  finally 
used  it  as  it  was,  thinking  it  would  finish 
freezing  when  again  packed,  but  it  did  not, 
what  was  the  trouble?" 

Trouble  with  Orange  Sherbet 

As  recipes  for  making  sherbets,  with 
and  without  a  syrup  gauge,  are  given  in 
''Practical  Cooking  and  Serving,"  we  are 
in  doubt  as  to  the  recipe  used  for  the 
orange  sherbet  in  question.  Fruit  juice 
and  syrup  at  a  density  of  20°  will  freeze 
without  trouble.  Without  a  gague  to 
measure  the  density  a  quart  of  water  and 
pint  of  sugar  boiled  twenty  minutes  will 
usually  produce  a  syrup  that  with  the 
proper  measure  of  fruit  juice  (as  given 
in  the  recipe  referred  to)  will  be  at  the 
right  density,  but  this  may  not  always 
be  the  case.  The  ingredients  must  ac- 
tually boil  twenty  minutes,  and  no  longer. 
If  the  saucepan  stands  on  the  stove  half 
an  hour  before  boiling  begins,  evapora- 
tion has  been  going  on  long  enough  to 
affect  the  density  of  the  finished  syrup. 
The  size  of  the  dish  in  which  the  cook- 
ing is  done  also  affects  the  density;  and 
on  some  days  water  evaporates  much 
more  quickly  than  on  others.  If  one  is 
not  to  use  a  gauge,  she  should  measure 
the  syrup.  A  quart  of  water  and  a  pint 
of  sugar  boiled  twenty  minutes  should 
yield  two  cups  and  a  half  of  syrup  at 
20°  by  the  gauge. 


Query  1728. — "Recipes  for  'Genuine  French 
Rolls,'  'Nut-and-Raisin  Souffle'  and  'Sponge 
Drops  with  Jelly.'  " 

Regarding  French  Rolls 

As  bread  and  rolls  in  France  are  not 
baked  in  private  houses,  not  much  atten- 
tion  is  given   to  the   subject  in   French 


books  on  cookery.  In  American  cook 
books  various  recipes  are  given  under 
the  name  of  French  Rolls.  Often  a 
Vienna  roll  mixture  is  given  for  French 
rolls.  French  bread  contains  no  in- 
gredients save  flour,  yeast,  water  and 
salt  and  we  are  incHned  to  think  that  the 
recipe  for  French  Rolls  differs  from  that 
of  bread  simply  in  the  addition  of  a  little 
shortening. 

Recipe  for  French  Rolls 

Mix  one  cake  of  compressed  yeast  and 
half  a  cup  of  lukewarm  water  to  a 
smooth  consistency,  then  stir  in  flour  to 
make  a  dough.  Knead  the  dough  until 
smooth  and  elastic,  shaping  it  into  a 
ball.  Make  two  cuts  with  a  knife  across 
the  top,  at  right  angles  to  each  other,  and 
about  one-fourth  an  inch  deep.  Set  the 
ball  of  dough,  cut-side  up,  in  a  bowl 
containing  two  cups  of  lukewarm  water. 
In  a  few  moments  the  dough  will  swell 
and  float  on  the  water.  In  another  bowl 
sift  five  cups  of  flour  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt;  with  the  tips  of  the 
fingers  work  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter  into  the  flour;  add  the  ball  of 
sponge  and  the  water  on  which  it  is 
floating  and  mix  to  a  soft  dough,  adding 
flour  as  is  needed.  Mix  the  dough  with 
a  knife  and  cut  and  work  it  until  the 
dough    cleans    the    bowl.       Knead    the 


:^ 


Ordinary  dusting  scatters  but  does  not 
remove  dust  and  germs.  Use  cheese-cloth 
dampened  with  tepid  water  to  which  a  httle 
Piatt's  Chlorides,  the  odorless  disinfectant, 
has  been  added.  Wring  out  till  dry  so  that 
it  will  not  streak  the  wood  work,  etc. 


Buy   Advertised   Goods  —  do   not   accept   substitutes 

xiv 


ADVERTISEMENTS 


Bake,  Fry,  Broil  or  Roast 


Kitchen  drudgery  is  largely  robbed  of  its  terror 
by  the  use  of  Detroit  Jewel  Gas  Ranges,    You  can 
bake,  fry,  broil  and  roast  all  at  one  time  with  know- 
ledge that  just  the  proper  heat  is  being  applied.    You 
can  broil  slowly  and  fry  fast  on  the  same  stove  at  the 
same  time. 

Vou  are  7iever  obliged  to  stoop,  bend  or  strain,  nor  to  reach 
over  blazing  burners  to  get  at  the  oven,  broiler  or  warming  closet. 

DETROIT 
JEWEL 

Gas  Rallies 


are  built  for  comfort  and  convenience— you  can  have 

the  cooking  closet  on  the  right  or  left  as  you  prefer.   The 

oven  is  large  and  square,  on  the  direct  flue  plan  which 

savesgas.insuresaperfectheatcirculation,  and  overcomes 

the  excessive  bottom  heat  common  to  other  makes.    It  is 

the  most  perfect  baking  oven  ever  put  in  a  gas  range. 

Plain ,  sanitary  finish  (easy  to  keep  clean),  the  high  legs  (easy 

to  sweep  under),  safety  pilot  light  (which  never  fails),  are 

points  of  Detroit-Jewel  superiority  no  woman  can  afford  to 

overlook. 

The  Detroit-Jewel  line  of  gas  appliances  includes  over  75 

styles  of  Ranges,   Stoves,    Water-Heaters,    etc. 

One  to  meet  your  most  exacting  requirements. 

_  Your  dealer  or  gas  company  can   supply  you. 

Look  for  the  crown-shaped  trade  mark. 

Cook  Book  Free 

Our  famous  32  page  cook  book  giving  over  50  new 
and  choice  recipes  for  meats,  game,  desserts,  etc  .also 
showing  the  latest  Detroit  Jewel  Gas  Ranges— ^^«/!  Free. 
DEPT.  H 
DETROIT    STOVE    WORKS 
'  Largest  Stove  Plant  in  the  World" 


Detroit 


Chicago 


Buy   Advertised   Goods  —  do   not   accept   substitutes 

XV 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


dough  until  it  is  perfectly  smooth  and 
elastic.  Let  stand,  close  covered,  until 
light;  cut  down  and  turn  over;  repeat 
two  or  three  times,  it  will  rise  quickly 
each  time.  Then  shape  into  rolls  the 
length  of  a  finger  and  rather  narrow ; 
set  these  some  little  distance  apart. 
When  again  light  bake  about  twenty-five 
minutes. 

Nut-and-Raisin  Souffle 


5  whites  of  eggs 
i  a  cup  of  seeded  rai- 
sins 


i  a    cup    of    chopped 

nuts 
i  a  cup  of  sugar 


Cut  fine  the  raisins  and  chop  the  nuts ; 
if  the  raisins  are  chopped  they  can  not 
be  mixed  evenly  through  the  souffle  un- 
less they  are  cooked  with  water.  Beat 
the  whites  dry;  fold  in  the  sugar  and 
prepared  nuts  and  raisins.  Turn  the 
mixture  into  a  buttered  baking  dish  and 
let  cook  as  a  custard  (on  many  folds  of 
paper  and  surrounded  with  boiling 
water)  until  the  center  is  firm  and  the 
mixture  well   puffed.      Serve  hot,   from 


To  be  healthy  and, 
vigorous,  children 
need  the  freedom 
of  movement  promoted  by  the 


[RUBBER  BUTTON] 

HOSE  SUPPORTER 

FOR  BOYS  AND  GIRLS. 

It  is  desirable  because  it  is  nght  in  everyway. 

Keeps  the  stockings  neat  and  unwTinkled. 

Easily    managed    by    small    fingers. 

Sample  Pair, Children's  sizei  state  age)  16c.  postpaid. 

•^2  Ix)ok  for  the  Moulded  Rubber  Button 
«=*an(i  ••Velvet  Grip"  stamped  on  tlie  loop. 
Sold  by  Dealers  Everyicltere. 
GEORGE  FROST  COMPANY.  Boston.  U.  S.  A. 


the  baking  dish,  with  cream  and  sugar  or 
with  boiled  custard. 

Sponge  Drops  with  Jelly 


\    a     cup     of     pastry 

flour 
2     tablespoonfuls     of 

melted  butter 


3  whites  of  eggs 

4  yolks  of  eggs 
I  a  cup  of  sugar 
Grated      rind      of      i 

lemon 

Beat  the  whites  dry  and  the  yolks  till 
thick ;  beat  the  sugar  into  the  yolks,  add 
the  grated  rind,  fold  in  half  the  whites, 
the  flour,  the  rest  of  the  whites  and  last 
of  all  the  butter.  Bake  in  small  round 
tins,  or  drop  in  rounds  in  a  buttered  pan. 
The  oven  must  be  of  a  moderate  heat. 
About  ten  minutes'  baking  is  needed. 
The  butter  may  be  omitted.  Put  to- 
gether in  pairs,  rounding  side  outwards 
with  jelly,  as  currant,  between.  A  fourth 
recipe  requested  by  this  subscriber  can 
not  be  supplied ;  the  combination  of  fruit 
puree  and  hard  sauce  is  improbable. 


EXPERIENCE 

AT  seventy-nine  Goethe  found  his 
life  more  valuable  and  satisfying 
than  in  his  so-called  prime.  He  was 
superior  in  many  respects,  he  said,  at 
forty,  but  time  had  more  than  paid  for 
the  advantages  of  which  it  had  deprived 
him.  We  lose  with  age  unless  we  are 
able  to  make  a  good  use  of  experience — 
to  feed,  as  Meredith  puts  it,  upon  the 
advancing  hour.  If  action  is  all  we  ap- 
preciate, old  age  must  mean  loss,  but  if 
contemplation  is  among-  our  pleasures 
the  cool  of  the  evening  may  surpass  in 
charm  the  midday  sun.  The  wise  man 
prepares  for  a  happy  decline,  by  sobriety, 
by  thought,  by  unselfish  interests,  by 
keeping  alive  his  imagination.  Boling- 
broke,  writing  in  old  age  to  Swift,  re- 
joiced that  the  gales  of  passion  were 
subdued;  that  for  surfeit  and  anxiety 
had  come  serenity,  refreshment,  calm. 
Indolence  means  decay.  If  we  do  not 
make  gains,  our  inevitable  losses  over- 
whelm us.  Sweetness  must  never  be 
allowed  to  depart,  or  enthusiasm,  or 
belief  in  man. — Collier's  Weekly. 


Buy    Advertised    Goods  —  do    not    accept    substitutes 
xvi 


ADVERTISEMENTS 


Combination  Coal  and  Gas 


A  combination  coal  and  gas  range  is  the  ideal  range  and  an  eco- 
nomic necessity  in  a  well  ordered  kitchen.  Gas  is  convenient  in 
summer  and  for  light  work  in  winter  as  an  auxiliary  to  a  coal  range — 
but  where  continuous  fire  is  needed,  as  in  winter  for  constant  hot 
water  supply  and  for  keeping  the  kitchen  warm,  a  coal  range  is 
necessary  and  also  more  healthful  as  it  does  not  vitiate  the  air  of  a 
closed  room  as  a  gas  range  does. 

The  Crawford  coinbination  ranges  have  gas 
ovens  that  are  safe  against  explosions.  The  burn- 
ers are  lighted  in  a  new  way  ;  there  is  no  dangerous 
pilot  light.     This  improvement  is  patented. 

The  Gas  Oven  Damper  is  automatically  opened  by 
the  opening  of  the  oven  door. 

There  is  an  extra  set  of  burners  at  the  top  of  the  Gas 
End  Oven  for  broiling ;  a  great  advantage. 

Gas  and  Coal  Range  can  be  used  at  same  time. 

Double  Oven  above  or 
Single  Oven  at  the  end. 

The    Crawford   Coal 

range    Toith     its    Single 

Damper   (patented),  its 

wonderful  Oven,  its  Jlsh  Hod 

in  the  base   with  Coal  Hod 

beside  it,  is  a  joy  to  cooks. 


Circulars  Free. 

Walker  &  Pratt  Mfg.  Co.,  Boston 

SOLn  BY  LBTiDJJVG  UETILERS  EVERYWHERE 


End  Gas 
Oven 


Buy   Advertised    Goods  —  do    not    accept    substitutes 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 


Practically  every  grocer  from 
Maine  to  Calfornia  sells 

Burnett^s 
Vanilla 

as  the  best.  Does  not  this  in- 
dicate that  its  absolute  purity 
and  dehcious  flavor  appeals  to 
every  careful,  intelligent  house- 
w^ife? 

JOSEPH  BURNETT  CO. 

Boston,  Mass. 


COOK  WITHOUT  FIRE 


A  servant  that  serves  whether  you  are  away 
or  at  home  — that's  the  HYGIENIC  FIRE- 
LESS  COOKER  AND   BAKER. 

When  you  go  away  in  the  morning,  place 
your  dinner  in  the  cooker — on  your  return  you 
will  find  the  most  savory  meal  cooked  in  the 
most  satisfactory  manner. 

Magic !  Not  a  bit  of  it.  Simply  the  appli- 
cation of  the  principle  of  utilizing  stored  heat 
energy.  The  HYGIENIC  is  built  to  retain  the 
heat  placed  in  it,  just  as  was  the  brick  oven  of 
our  grandmothers.  You  simply  heat  the  plates 
and  place  them  in  the  cooker  with  the  food — 
then  forget  all  about  your  cooking  until  meal 
time.     It  does  not  scorch  or  burn. 

Send  the  name  of  your  Hardware  Dealer  and  we  will  mail 
you  free  a  copy  of  our  catalogue  and  *'  FirelesB  Cooking.  " 
Write  now. 

Stephens  Manufacturing  Company 

344  Franklin  Building,  Buffalo.  IN.  Y. 


OUR   FIRELESS   COOKER 

(Concluded  from  Page  469) 

poker,  I  swung  open  the  door,  and  he 
yelled,  "Hey,  you!" 

Well,  what  do  you  think?  There  was 
nobody  there  but  Maggie  on  her  knees 
before  the  stove,  with  a  black  smudge 
on  her  nose  and  one  on  each  cheek. 

Jim  looked  silly  and  dropped  the  poker. 
He  scarred  it  awfully,  too.  Then  he 
went  forward  and  said,  ''What's  the 
matter,  Maggie?" 

"Matter  enough,"  said  she,  and  never 
looked  up  at  all. 

So  he  got  down  on  his  knees  beside 
her  and  they  both  worked,  and  worked, 
and  worked,  while  I  flew  around  and 
turned  and  pushed  the  knobs  and  handles 
and  things  that  they  told  me  to. 

It  seemed  that  poor  Maggie  had  been 
there  ever  since  noon  and  she  was  so 
thoroughly  provoked  that  she  just 
wouldn't  give  in,  but  kept  trying  to  make 
the  old  stove  burn.  Jim  struggled  with 
the  thing,  with  all  his  might,  and  he 
never  opened  his  mouth  but  once,  and 
then  he  only  looked  over  his  shoulder 
and  said,  "Well,  Dolly,  I  guess  this  is 
as  fireless  a  cooker  as  one  could  find." 
He's  so  clever!  It  really  seems  to  me 
that  he's  the  cleverest  man  I  know,  but 
perhaps  I'm  prejudiced,  for  he's  my 
husband. 

Then,  after  they  had  toiled  and  moiled 
a  while  longer,  we  really  thought  it  had 
begun  to  burn.  Little  spirals  of  smoke 
began  to  rise  and  we  congratulated  our- 
selves that  we  had  conquered.  But  the 
smoke  began  to  get  worse  and  worse 
till  we  had  to  put  up  the  windows  and 
open  the  door;  and  still  the  fire  kept  on 
smoking. 

Someone  must  have  turned  on  the 
fire  alarm  for  pretty  soon  the  firemen 
came  tearing  up.  They  were  so  pro- 
voked, when  they  found  out  it  was  all  a 
mistake,  that  I  went  out  and  apologized, 
and  told  them  the  state  of  affairs. 

And  they  were  so  nice ;  one  of  them 
came  in  and  looked   at  the  stove,  and. 


Buy   Advertised    Goods  —  do   not    accept    substitutes 
xviii 


ADVERTISEMENTS 


Every  article  bearing 
this  name  is  uniformly 
of  highest  quality. 


anning- 
pwman 


Made  **for  tables  of 
taste,"  convenience 
beauty  and  durability. 


No.  6672 


(transparent  view) 

TEA  BALL  TEA  POT 


Tea  Ball 
Tea  Pots 

Coffee 
Percolators 

Chafing 
Dishes 


(sectional  view) 

COFFEE  PERCOLATOR 


The  Manning- Bowman  Coffee   Percolator 
a  long  advance  over  ordinary  percolators. 


This  percolator  will  make  coffee  as  quickly 
starting  with  cold  water  as  ordinary  percolators 
starting  with  hot  water,  and  the  coffee  will  be 
far  superior  in  flavor,  bouquet  andhealthfulness. 
This  percolator  has  no  valves  to  clog,  is  simple 
in  operation  and  easy  to  clean. 


The  Manning-Bowman  Tea  Ball  Tea  Pot 
is  a  tea  pot  with  a  self-contained  tea-ball — it 
has  none  of  the  mussiness  of  the  cup  tea-ball. 
The  tea-ball  is  lowered  and  raised  by  the  knob. 
The  ball  and  the  chain  are  always  inside  the 
cover.  Tea  made  in  this  pot  is  more  delicious 
and,  no  matter  how  long  it  stands,  after  the 
ball  is  raised  it  will  not  become  any  stronger. 

MANNING -BOWMAN  ALCOHOL  GAS  STOVES 

which  are  furnished  with  Manning- Bowman  Chafing  Dishes,  or  which 
may  be  bought  separately,  have  the  cooking  power  of  a  kitchen  range 
burner,  will  take  any  cooking  utensil,  and  cook  a  complete  meal.  Fine 
for  picnics,  camping,  parties,  etc. 

These    articles    are    made   in  a  large  number  of 
popular  mission  designs  and  many  other  handsome 
patterns,    in  solid  copper,   nickel  or  silver  plate. 

The  Manning- Bowman 
Quality  products  are  sold  by 
leading  dealers  —  jewelers, 
department  and  house  -  fur- 
nishing stores.  Write  for 
free  Recipe  Book  and  Cata- 
logue No.  E  19 


sizes. 


No.  3893 

URN  PERCOLATOR 


Alcohol  Gas  Stoves 
Urn  Coffee  Percolators 
Tea  Ball  Tea  Urns 
Chafing  Dish  Accessories,  etc. 


alcglite"  burner  stove 


No.  345- 

CHAFING  DISH 


anning- 
o-v^man 


A  t  leading  dealers '.     Write  for  free 
recipe  book  and  catalogue  No. 

MANNING.  BOWMAN  &  CO. 
Meriden,  Connecticut. 


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THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


WiWyou  try  the  most 
delicious  of  TEAS? 

Our  special  blend  of  choice  and  rare  teas 
(the  finest  imported  into  New  York) 

has  been  pronounced  by  connoisseurs  the  most 
fragrant,  the  most  refreshing,  and  the  most  satisfy- 
ing of  teas.     Certainly  no  other  has  the  flavor  of 

f     Orange  Pekoe 


To  induce  yon  to  try  this  most  popular  of  our  fa- 
mous SI. 00  a  Pound  Teas  at  once,  we  will  send  you 
a  special  3  oz.  package  for  10c.  Only  one  to  an 
address.  1-2  lb.  package,  50c,  postpaid. 
We  will  also  send  dainty  booklet  describing  our 
Oriental  Table  Delicacies,  comprising  rare  foods, 
nuts,  and  confections — delicacies  which  lend  the 
charm  of  novelty  to  afternoon  tea,  card  party,  or 
any  home  function. 

The  name  "Vantine"  has  stood  for  exclusive  qual- 
ity for  over  half  a  century.  Vantine's  goods  are 
sold  by  high-grade  dealers.  Mention  your  dealer's 
name. 

V  A  N  T  I  N  E'S 

Dept.  C.S.;  12  East  ISth  St.,  New  York  Crrr 


then,  what  do  you  suppose  he  did? 
Why,  he  just  walked  right  over  and 
turned  a  little  thing  that  I  hadn't 
noticed  at  all  and  before  we  knew  it  the 
fire  was  burning  merrily. 

Jim  thanked  the  man  and  gave  him 
something,  and  after  they  had  gone, 
while  we  were  enjoying  ourselves,  I 
suddenly  remembered  Maggie. 

She  had  disappeared,  but  just  as  I 
went  to  call  her,  she  came  in  with  her 
things  on. 

"I'll  not  be  stayin'  where  there's  such 
goin's  on  as  to  fires,"  she  said,  and  out 
of  the  back  door  she  walked,  before  I 
could  say  a  word. 

I  didn't  know  what  to  do,  but  Jim  just 
put  his  arm  around  me  and  said,  ''Our 
fireless  cooker  seems  to  have  become  a 
cookless  fire." 

He's  so  clever!  It  seems  to  me  that 
he's  the  cleverest  man  I  know,  but  per- 
haps I'm  prejudiced,  for  he's  my 
husband. 


m% 


OBI/ATINB 

^PLAI  N^ 

IF  you  like  grelatine  desserts,  here's  one 
that  will  delight  you.  If  you  dont 
like  gelatine,  you  will  have  to  wheu 
5'ou  try  this. 

Sample  Free  makTone  p^ii. 

No  guesswork  in  preparing  it.  No 
failure  in  results.  It  comes  all  ready 
measured  for  you.  Four  envelopes  in 
each  regular  or  full-size  package.  Each 
envelope  contains  exactly  and  always 
the  quantity  to  make  one  pint.  Whole 
package  makes  J^  gallon.  Dissolve 
in  boiling  water  or  milk, 
add  sugar,  fruit  or  flavor, 
cool  and  serve.  Simple, 
istit  it?  Minuteman  on 
every  package. 
Send  us  to-day  your  grocer's 
name  and  asi:  for  sample  to 
make  one  pint  and  Afinnte- 
man  Cook  Book— both  free. 

.  MIKirrE  TAPIOCA  CO.. 
'    W.  Main  St.,  Orange,  Mass. 


G^ 


^<im 


Sure  To  Be  Missed 

The  most  successful  book  that  was 
published  by  William  Harrison  Ains- 
worth  during  his  first  year  of  business, 
says  Mr.  S.  M.  Ellis  in  his  biography  of 
the  English  author  and  publisher,  was  a 
cook-book.  It  was  ''The  French  Cook," 
by  Louis  Eustache  Ude,  ''the  Gil  Bias  of 
the  kitchen." 

This  unique  study  of  the  culinary  art 
brought  in  a  handsome  sum  to  the  astute 
young  publisher  who  had  purchased  the 
copyright,  and  the  book  was  in  the  hands 
of  every  gourmet  in  London, 

Ude  had  been  chef  of  Louis  XVI;  of 
Madame  Letizia  Bonaparte,  and  then  of 
the  Earl  of  Sefton,  at  a  salary  of  three 
hundred  guineas  a  year.  At  another 
time  he  presided  over  the  culinary  de- 
partment of  the  Crockfords;  but  his  fa- 
vorite master  was  Frederick,  Duke  of 
York.  When  the  royal  go rmand  died, 
his  bereaved  chef  pathetically  ejaculated: 

''Ah,  nion  paiivre  due,  how  much  you 
will  miss  me,  wherever  you  are  gone  to !" 


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XX 


ADVERTISEMENTS 


2 

1^^^' 

i 

1 

IFI?    r 

I-' 

1 

'|yj[r||r|' 

F 

1 

^t 

r 

Driginal  Store  and  Factory 


The  reputation  built  up  by  three 
ETenerations  is  HUYLER'S  most 
valuable  asset.  We  cannot  afford 
to  jeopardize  it  by  using:  any 
but  the  higrhest  grades  of  raw 
material,  which  when  combined 
with  careful  workmanship,  ex« 
pert  blending  and  perfect  clean- 
liness produce  Huyler's  Quality 

You  do  not  have  to  gruess. 
Absolute  Purity  and  Perfection 
are  assured  when  you 
purchase 


World  £/    Renowned 
Candies,  Cocoa  and  Chocolates 


Main  New  York  Works  to-day,  besides  which  HUYLER'fc 

operate  14  Branch  Factories,  where  their 

Candies  of  Rare  Quality  are  made. 

56  Retail  ctores  in  Principal  Cities. 


You  can  buy 

SHELLED  NUTS 

( Peannts,  Walnuts,  Almonds,   etc.) 


of  the  wholesale  dealers,  if  you  will  buy  in 
quantities  of  not  less  than  five  pounds  of  a  kind. 
Send  for  price  list. 

We    are    also    manufacturers    of    the    better 
quality  of 

FLAVORING  EXTRACTS 


Per  Pt. 

Vanilla $1.23 

Lemon .73 

Orange 1.00 

Per  K  Pt. 


Rose  .... 
Almond  . 
Pistachio 


.63 
.30 
.90 


The  Three  Millers  Company 

54-38  Chardon  St.  .  .  Boston 


Easy  to  Prepare 
Sure   to  Please 

For  your  own  convenience  and  the  de- 
light of  your   guests  keep    a  supply  of 

McMenamin's 

Crabs 

always  on  hand.  They  mean  "deviled 
crabs  without  bother"  because  we've 
done  all  the  work  of  picking  and  cooking 
the  crab  meat  for  you.  You  can  have 
delicious  ** devils"  in  a  few  moments, 
serving  them  in  the  natural  shells  which 
we  supply  FREE  through  your  dealer, 
or  you  can  tempt  the  palate  with  any 
of    the    crab    dainties     shown    in    our 

30  Recipe  Booklet 

Write  us  and  we'll  send  you  this  booklet 
which  is  the  authority  on  crab  dishes. 
You  will  find  McMenamin's  Crabs  ready 
for  deviling,  economical  as  well  as  de- 
licious. They  are  made  from  the  sweet 
white  meat  of  selected  crabs  and  are  guar- 
anteed absolutely  pure.  Highly  nutri- 
tious. Make  them  a  regular  part  of 
j/otir  menu. 

NATURAL  SHELLS  FREE 

We  supply  dealers  with  the  natural  shells 
in  neat  boxes,  ready  for  use.  Ask  for  them 
when  purchasing  McMenamin's  Crabs  :  they 
are  free  and  increase  the  attractiveness  of  the 


dish. 


McMenamin  4  Company,  Inc. 


40  River  Road 


Hampton,  Virginia 


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xxi 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Always  Ready 
To  Use. 

A  box  full  of  the 
brightest,  blackest, 
quickest  luster  ever 
provided  for  stoves  is 
yours  if  you  will  just 
ask  your  grocer  for 


You  will  find  that 
the  real  best  is  so 
much  better  than 
what  you  have  here- 
tofore  thought    the 
best,  that  you  are 
sure  to  be  really 
delighted.   It  is 
dustless.  I 

Makes  the 
Stove  An 
Ornament. 

MORSE  BROS.,  Proprietors 
Canton,  Mass.,  U.  S.  A 


These    traderinark   crisscross    line: 


8PE 
FOOD 


Unlike  other 
FARWELL  &  RHI 


ry   package 

ETIC 

ses  of 

TROUBLES 

STRICT  DIET 

For  book 


.Y..  U.S.A. 


Bakes  Six 
at  a  Time 


THE   HANDI-nUICH 

POTATO   BAUER 

Saves  burning  your  arms  and  hands.  Potatoes  need  no 
turning,  bake  evenly  and  quickly  w^ithout  tliick  crust 
burning  on  bottom. 

At  5c  and  10c.  stores  and  all  tinware  departments.  If 
you  can't  get  it,  we'll  supply  it.    Send  dealer's  name. 

SPRINGFIELD  SPECIALTY  CO.  10 

Springfieia.    Mass.  CENTS 


Her  Frugal  Lunch 

In  one  of  the  biggest  of  Cleveland's 
public  schools  some  of  the  smaller  chil- 
dren, children  of  the  primary  grade, 
bring  their  lunches  when  they  come  in 
the  morning. 

A  large  proportion  of  the  pupils  in 
the  building  are  children  of  foreign  par- 
entage, quite  a  number  are  of  foreign 
birth,  and  many  of  them  are  from  hum- 
ble homes,  where  the  food  is  the  simplest 
and  the  mouths  are  many. 

Among  these  little  lunch  bearers  the 
teacher  in  a  certain  room  had  her  atten- 
tion drawn  to  a  girl  whose  noontime 
feast  seemed  invariably  the  same — a 
thick  slice  of  black  bread  and  a  boiled 
egg.  They  were  neatly  wrapped  in  a 
clean  square  of  paper,  and,  while  the 
other  lunches  might  vary  in  material, 
this  modest  spread  included  just  the  two 
articles  mentioned. 

There  is  pride  in  little  hearts  even 
over  so  small  a  matter  as  the  simplest 
of  simple  luncheons,  and,  while  the  child 
with  only  a  sandwich  envies  the  child 
with  the  cakes  and  the  orange,  this  child 
with  the  black  bread  and  the  boiled  tgg 
seemed  to  be  fully  satisfied  with  her  por- 
tion, for  an  Qgg,  look  you,  can  be  both 
necessity  and  luxury: 

And  so  during  the  noon  hour  the  child 
would  contentedly  seek  a  dusky  corner 
of  the  school  basement  and  there,  quite 
alone,  dispose  of  the  frugal  meal. 

But  one  day  a  dreadful  thing  hap- 
pened. 

As  the  child  opened  the  package  the 
egg  slipped  from  her  fingers  and  fell  to 
the  floor ! 

And,  lo,  it  wasn't  a  real  egg  at  all, 
but  just  an  imitation,  an  earthenware 
egg,  a  make  believe  egg  that  is  some- 
times called  a  nest  egg\ 


SAMPLE 


by  Leading  Chefs  and 
THE  PALISADE  MFG.CO.  353 


Gives 

A  DELICIOUS 
FLAVOR  AND 
RICH  COLOR 
TO  SOUPS, 
SAUCES, 


FREE 


GRAVIES, 


Eminent  Teachers  Of  Cookery. 
CLINTON  AVE. WEST  HOBOKEN.N.J. 


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ADVERTISEMENTS 


Labor   Saving 

COOKING  UTENSILS 

Are  an  absolute  necessity  in  the  Cooking  School,  the  Home,  and  the  Culinary  Department  of 
Club,  Hotel,  Restaurant  or  Institution.  We  carry  a  most  complete  line  of  Cooking  Utensils 
and  specialize  in  the  latest  and  most  modem  articles  that  lighten  the  labor  of  Culinary  Work. 


"UNIVERSAL"   BREAD   MAKER 

The  "  Universal"  mixes  and  kneads  the  dough  with 
scientific  accuracy,  thoroughly  and  evenly  mixing  all 
the  ingredients,  so  that  each  particle  of  flour  is  cov- 
ered with  a  film  of  moisture,  and  expanding  is  thus 
more  easily  permeated  by  the  heat  in  baking. 

Bread  made  in  the  "  Universal "  is  perfectly 
kneaded,  free  from  unbroken  starch,  and  therefore 
entirely  digestible. 

The  dough  is  not  touched  by  the  hands  at  all. 


"UNIVERSAL"  CAKE  MAKER 

The  bowl  of  the  "Universal"  Cake  Maker  holds 
four  quarts  of  batter  and  any  less  quantity  can  be 
mixed  in  it. 

All  parts  are  heavily  tinned,  including  the  bowl, 
which  is  made  from  one  piece  of  wrought  steel. 

For  every  revolution  of  the  crank,  the  beaters  re- 
volve five  times,  insuring  rapid,  uniform  and  thorough 
mixing  of  materials. 

Being  entirely  open,  the  mixing  process  is  easily 
watched,  and  flavoring,  sugar,  etc.,  can  be  added  as 
required. 


Prices  and  Estimates  Furnished  on  Application 
Write  for  Catalogue 


HOPKINSON  &  HOLDEN 


15  AND  16  FANEUIL  HALL  SQUARE 
BOSTON.  MASSACHUSETTS 


Miss  Farmer's  School  of  Cookery 


30   HUNTINGTON   AVENUE,  BOSTON,   MASS. 


NINTH    SUMMER  COURSE 
FROM  JULY  11  TO  AUGUST  15,  1911,  INCLUSIVE 


To  meet  the   needs    of    teachers    of    cookery,  dietitians,  matrons  of 
institutions  and  housekeepers. 

Lessons    in    marketing,  advanced    cookery,  sick-room    cookery    and 
w^aitress'  work. 

Lectures  on  practical  dietetics,  infant  and  child  feeding  and  feeding 
in  institutions. 

TERMS:   $45        -        -        PROSPECTUS   ON   APPLICATION 

FANNIE   MERRITT  FARMER 


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THE   BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   AlAGAZINE 


Trade  Mark  Registered 

FarweJIl  &  Rhines* 


Also  Invaluable  Cereal  Special- 
ties lor  Invalids.    Ask  for  tliem 

At  Leading  Grocers,  etc. 


Electric  Lustre 


Starch 

WORKS  WONDERS 


Makes  Shirt  Waists,  Skirts, 

Laces,  Linens,  Shirts,  Collars, 

Cuffs  and  all  starched  things    ^,,^  p,,,,^, 

look  like  NEW.  lo  cents 

Most  Economical    and   Best  for  all 

starching,  because  it  goes  farther  and 
does  better  work  than  any  other  starch. 

Requires  no  Boiling,  but  may  be 
boiled  if  desired.  Perfect  results  in 
hot  or  cold  water. 

Saves  Time,  Labor,  Trouble.  Will 
not  stick  to  the  iron,  get  lumpy  or  in- 
jure the  finest  fabric. 

Sold  by  all  Grocers 
Write  us  for  FREE  SAMPLE 

ELECTRIC  ELSTRE  STARCH  CO. 

DepB  Central  St.  Boston,  Mass. 


DOMESTIC  SCIENCE 

Hoine=Study  Courses 

Pood,  health,  housekeeping,  clothing,  children.  For  home- 
makers,  teachers  and  for  well-paid  positions. 
"The  Profession  of  Home-Making,"  100-page  handbook, 
FREE.  Bulletins:  "Free  Hand  Cooking  on  Scientific 
Principles,"  48  pages,  lo  cents.  "Food  Values:  Practical 
Methods  in  Dietetics,"  32  pp.,  ill.,  lo  cents. 
American  School  of  Home  Economics,  503  W.  69th  St.,  Chicago,  III. 


When  it  fell  it  struck  the  floor  with 
a  sharp  crack  that  drew  general  atten- 
tion. And  the  unhappy  child  burst  into 
tears. 

Here  was  an  end  to  the  little  decep- 
tion that  had  ministered  to  her  childish 
pride  and  placed  her  on  a  level  with  her 
more  fortunate  schoolmates.  Here  was 
the  humiliating  wreck  of  the  simple  sub- 
terfuge that  had  helped,  conceal  the 
grinding  poverty  of  the  child's  home. 

Small  wonder  then  that  the  tears  ran 
down  her  cheeks  and  that  the  proud  little 
heart  long  refused  to  be  comforted. — 
Cleveland  Plain  Dealer. 


The  word  "tariff"  comes  to  us  from 
Tarriffa,  a  town  on  the  north  coast  of 
Africa.  Here  a  band  of  pirates  had  their 
headquarters.  Just  one  word  they  called 
to  their  clients  and  that  was  the  dreaded 
word,  "TarriiTa!"  This  meant,  ''Stop 
your  ship  and  turn  over  to  us  one-half 
of  your  cargo,  otherwise  we  will  sink 
you." 

A  tariff  at  the  best  is  a  species  of  hold- 
up. It  is  an  attempt  to  stop  the  natural 
flow  of  trade  from  where  things  are 
plentiful  to  where  they  are  needed.  It 
is  a  scheme  to  prevent  the  consumer  buy- 
ing the  things  he  wants  at  the  price  they 
are  worth.  A  tariff  boosts  the  price  of 
a  commodity  by  a  man  with  a  gun  step- 
ping between  the  seller  and  the  buyer 
and  crying  'Tarriffa!"    ■ 

The  money  you  pay  to  the  man  with 
a  gun  is  added  to  the  selling  price.  The 
consumer  pays  more  than  the  thing  is 
worth ;  because  not  only  does  he  have  to 
pay  the  legitimate  expenses  of  govern- 
ment, but  he  has  to  support  the  whole 
hungry  horde  of  piratical  officeholders 
who  come  from  Tarriffa,  and  range  the 
seas.  They  eat,  they  destroy,  they  con- 
sume— they  do  not  produce. 


Buy  Advertised    Goods  —  do   not  accept   substitutes 
xxiv 


ADVERTISEMENTS 


May  1st,  1911, 
Dear  Madam  :~ 

Our  offer  of  one  mixed  case 
of  34-  8  oz.  jars  of  Porto  Rican  Brand 
Preserves,  containing  Guava  Jelly,  Grape 
Fruit  Marmalade,  Pineapple  Marmalade, 
Mango  Marmalade,  Mango  Jelly  and  Mango 
Chutney,  the  most  luscious  dainties  ob- 
tainable, for  $7.50  per  case,  transpor- 
tation paid  is  still  in  force. 

Our  full  page  advertisement 
in  the  April  issue  of  this  magazine  ex- 
plains fully.  Send  us  your  name  at 
once 

Yours  truly, 
Trenton,  N.J.         Fenimore  &  Co. 


Rae's   Lucca   Oil 

"THE  PERFECTION  OF  OLIVE  OIL" 


THE  VERY  FINEST  QUALITY 

OF 

PURE  OLIVE  OIL 


SOLD  IN  BOTTLES  AND  TINS 
OF  VARIOUS  SIZES 


S.    RAE    &    CO 

LEGHORN,  TUSCANY,  ITALY 


Buy    Advertised    Goods  —  do    not    accept    substitutes 

XXV 


THE   BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


Korrjlet  Soup 

Is  Fine 

This  hungry  husband  is  smacking  his  lips  over 
Kornletsoup,  and  this  spoonful  tastes  better  than 
the  one  before.  He'll  want  another  helping,  be- 
cause his  palate  is  tickled  with  the  dewy-fresh 
corn  flavor  of  plump  ears  gathered  before  sun-up. 
KoRNLETis  «o/ canned  corn — nor  like  it.  Just  the 
tender  hearts  ofthe  kernels  of  green  corn — with  the 
outer  covering  removed  by  unerring  machines, 
and  the  sunshine  and  rain  left  in.  Nourishing, 
temptingly  delicious,  and  a  real 
treat  to  corn  lovers.  Proof  will 
come  out  of  the  first  package,,  so 
try  Kornlet  and  enjoy  it. 

Booklet  of  Kornlet  prize  recipes  by  house- 
wives, for  your  grocer's  name.    Send  it  now. 
THE  HASEROT  C  ANNERIES  CO. 
Cleveland,  Ohio,  U.  S.  A. 


Eure  Hawaiian 
ineappleJuice 
'rinK 


oes 


A  wonderful,  new. 
healthful  all-theyear 
round  drink.  Phvsi 
cians  prescribe  pure 
pineapple  juice  in 
many  throat, stomach 
and  intestinal  difficul- 
ties. Dole's  is  pure. 
A  refreshing  drink  in 
fever  convalescence, 
delightful  at  any  time 


At  Druggists,  Grocers  and  Soda  Fountains. 

Trade  supplied  through  regular  channels. 

Write  for  Booklet. 

Hawaiian  Pineapple  Products  Co.,  Ltd.,  ■ 


krr  Sf.,  San  Franciico,  Oil. 


Housewives  ^^gS's^^re'^r  Stepsaver 

fin  serving  meais.  One  trip  with  Wheel  Tray  sets  tah^e. 
Anotlit-r  completely  clearsit  This  tii ble  on  wheels  moves 
easily  anywhere  you  want  it.  Height -SI  in.  Removable 
oval  trays,  :i3in,  by  28in.  and  21  in.  by  2K  in.,  extra  heavy 
steel.  8in.  rubber  tire  wheals.  Gloss  bluck  .japan  finish. 
l'ricp$|0|  express  prepiiid.  $|2  to  Pacific  Coast. 
Write  for  circular  and  learn  its  convenience. 


The  whole  idea  of  a  tariff  on  the 
necessities  of  Hfe  is  unjust  and  unethical. 
No  one  knows  where  or  when  a  protec- 
tive tariff  ceases  to  be  one  and  becomes 
a  tariff  for  revenue.  The  fact  is  the 
"protective"  feature  is  only  an  excuse, 
an  afterthought.  An  industry  that  needs 
protection  should  not  exist.  The  price 
paid  for  protection  comes  out  of  the  peo- 
ple anyway,  and  why  the  many  should 
be  robbed  to  protect  the  few,  no  one  has 
ever  explained. 

Reciprocity  with  Canada  is  a  great  and 
beneficent  move.  We  need  the  foodstuffs 
and  lumber  that  Canada  produces,  and 
she  needs  our  manufactured  products. 

Under  the  old  scheme,  our  big  manu- 
facturers evade  the  duty  by  going  over 
to  Canada  and  starting  factories.  Hence 
a  tariff  really  drives  our  manufacturers 
across  the  border. 

Reciprocity  with  Canada  will  place  a 
willow  plume  in  the  cap  of  President 
Taft,  and  for  generations  to  come  his- 
tory will  call  him  blessed. — The  Philis- 
tine. 


Wheel-Tray  Co.,  435  G  West  61st  Place,  Chicago 


A  certain  sceptic  was  contending  be- 
fore a  minister  that  the  work  of 
the  Creator  was  manifestly  imperfect. 
"Have  you  not  yourself,"  he  asked, 
"noted  defects  in  the  human  organism, 
for  instance,  and  thought  of  better  con- 
trivances?" To  his  delight  there  was 
the  frank  reply,  "Why,  yes,  I  really 
think  I  have."  "In  what  respect?" 
"Why,"  drawled  the  parson,  "you  see, 
when  I  want  to  shut  out  anything  dis- 
agreeable from  my  sight,  I  can  draw 
down  my  eyelids,  and  it's  all  done;  but, 
unfortunately,  I  haven't  any  flaps  to  my 
ears."  Free  conversation  ceased  at  about 
that  point. 


TANGLEFOOT,  the  Original  Fly  Papei 

FOR  25  YEARS  THE  STANDARD  IN  QUALITY. 
ALL  OTHERS  ARE  IMITATIONS. 


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ADVERTISEMENTS 


HUB      RANGES 


Have  everything  necessary  to  convenience 
and  A   No.   1    service. 

These  include  the  HUB  SINGLE  DAMPER  on  the 

top  of  range  plainly  marked  "open"  to  kindle,  "shut"  to 
bake;  the  FRENCH  TOP  for  placing  a  round,  oval, 
square  or  oblong  opening  over  the  fire  ;  HUB  BROILER 

hood  used  with  French  Top  improves  the  broiling  —  allows 
no  odors  to  escape  into  rooms. 

The  HUB  IMPROVED  FLUE  heats  oven 
on  five  sides,  heats  it  evenly  and  quickly,  makes 
it  bake  perfectly. 

There's  a  style  and  size  HUB  for  every  taste,  purse 
and  requirement.  There  are  Wood  and  Coal  Grates,  Gas 
Attachments,  High  Closets  —  everything  to 

Make   Cooking   a   Pleasure. 

Send  for  Range  Talk  No.  3 

SMITH  &  ANTHONY  CO.,   52-54  Union  Street,   Boston,   Mass. 

Makers  HUB  Ranges,  Parlor  Stoves,  Furnaces,  Steam  and  Water  Heaters. 


Make  Your  Own 

Ice-cream 

WITH 

JUNKET 

TABLETS 

REQUIRES  no  eggs,  corn-starch,  or  gel- 
atine, and  only  one  part  cream  and 
three  parts  pure  milk.  The  Junket  process 
makes  an  exquisitely  delicious,  smooth,  vel- 
vety ice-cream  at  half  the  usual  cost. 

A  charming  little  booklet  containing 
many  recipes,  among  them  one  for  Junket 
Ice-cream  with  strawberries,  by  Janet 
McKenzie  Hill,  the  famous  lecturer  and 
editor  of  The  Bostoji  Cooking- School  Maga- 
zine^ comes  free  with  every  package.  Sold 
by  all  grocers  or  mailed  postpaid  for  ten 
cents. 

CHR.  HANSEN'S  LABORATORY 
Box  2507  Little  Falls,  N.Y. 


Junket 

Ice 

Cream 

with 
strawberries 


/I 


>^ 


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xxvii 


THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


For   Permanent 
Satisfaction,  Economy  and    Convenience: 

Noth  Proof  Red  Cedar  Chifforobe 

This  magnificent  Chifforobe  combines  the  best 
features  of  a  Chiffonier  and  a  Wardrobe.  It  is  built 
of  delightfully  fragrant  Southern  mountain  grown 
Red  Cedar  which  affords  absolute  Protection 
Against  Moths  without  the  use  of  camphor,  thus 

Saving  Cold  Storage  Expenses 

PIEDMONT  CHIFFOROBES  are  dust  and  damp 
proof,  having  air-tight  doors.  The  construction  and 
finish  are  the  very  best,  and  there  is  no  other  piece  of 
furniture  that  will  give  more  genuine  and  permanent 
satisfaction  than  a  Piedmont  Chifforobe. 

We  have  them  in  different  styles  and  sizes. 
Piedmont  Red  Cedar  Chests  combine  beauty  and 
usefulness.  Writeforcatalog.  Prices  range  from  $12  up. 

IVe  will  send  you  a  Red  Cedar  Chifforobe  or  Chest 
on  15  days''  af>pro7ial.  If  you  are  not  entirely  satisfied 
return  it  to  us.     We  will  pay  freight  both.  ways. 

We  do  not  sell  to  dealers,  but  Direct  from  Fac- 
tory to  Your  Home.  You  do  not  pay  middleman's 
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Our  elaborately  illustrated  catalog  shows  a  wide  range  of 
Chifforobes  and  Chests  to  select  from  ;  you  will  be  sure  to  lind 
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intended  for- 

PIEDMONT  RED  CEDAR  CHEST  CO.,  Dept.  H,  Statesville,  N.  C. 


Good  Things  to  Eat 

Can  be  quickly  and  easily  made  with 

Fleischmann's  Yeast 

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forty  odd  recipes  tliat  tell  how  to  make  baked  goodies 


The  Fleischmann  Company 


701  Washington  Street 


New  York  City 


Dinner  Rolls 


1  cake    Fleischmann's 

Yeast 
1  cup     milk,     scalded 

and  cooled 
1  tablespoonful  sugar 


tablespoonfuls    lard 
or    butter,    white 
of  one  egg 
cups  sifted  flour 
teaspoonful    salt 


Dissolve  yeast  and  sugar  in  lukewarm 
milk.  Add  white  of  egg,  beaten  until 
stiff,  the  flour  gradually,  the  lard  or  but- 
ter, and  lastly  the  salt,  keeping  dough 
soft.  Knead  lightly,  using  as  little  flour 
in  kneading  as  possible.  Place  in  well- 
greased  bowl.  Cover  and  set  to  rise  in 
a  warm  place,  free  from  draft,  until 
double  in  bulk — about  two  hours.  Mould 
into  rolls  the  size  of  walnuts.  Place  in 
well-greased  pans,  protect  from  draft, 
and  let  rise  one-half  hour,  or  until  hght. 
Glaze  with  white  of  ^gg,  diluted  with 
water.     Bake  ten  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 


Out  of  His   Hands 

Uncle  Mose,  needing  money,  sold  his 
pig  to  the  wealthy  Northern  lawyer  who 
had  just  bought  the  neighboring  planta- 
tion. After  a  time,  needing  more  money, 
he  stole  the  pig  and  resold  it,  this  time 
to  Judge  Pickens,  who  lived  ''down  the 
road  a  piece."  Soon  afterward  the  two 
gentlemen  met,  and  upon  comparing 
notes  suspected  what  had  happened. 
They  confronted  Uncle  Mose.  The  old 
darky  cheerfully  admitted  his  guilt.. 

''Well,"  demanded  Judge  Pickens, 
"what  are  you  going  to  do  about  it?" 

"Blessed  if  I  know,  Jedge,"  replied 
Uncle  Mose  with  a  broad  grin.  "Pse  no 
lawyer.  I  reckon  Pll  have  to  let  yo' 
two  gen'men  settle  it  between  yo'selves." 


"He  who  sedulously  attends,  pointedly 
asks,  calmly  speaks,  coolly  answers,  and 
ceases  when  he  has  no  more  to  say,  is 
in  possession  of  some  of  the  best  requi- 
sites of  man." — Lavater. 


The  sure  way  to  make  a  flaky  Pie  Crust — use  the 

PASTRY  FORK 

to  work  the  shortening  and  flour  together.    Saves  time.     Insures 
a  flaky  crust.     By  mail,  postpaid,   25  cents.     No  stamps.     Big  money  to  agents. 

'l         PASTRY    FORK    CO.,  3111  St.  Andrews  Place.  Los  Angeles.  California 


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xxviii 


ADVERTISEMENTS 


The  Daugnters 
Of  the-Farm 


Have  ever  been  splendid  examples  of  health  and  vigor — while  their 
city  cousin  often  deprived  of  outdoor  exercise  and  invigorating 
country  air— finds  the  need  of  such  a  life-giving  tonic  as 


^V4HEVJSER  BUSCA/-5 


Because  every  bottle  is    filled  with    the  strength  and  vitality  of  rich  Northern 
barley  fields  and  the  nerve  building  powers  of  fragrant  Bohemian  Saazer  Hops. 

Declared  by  U.  S.  Revenue  Department  A  Pure  Malt  Product 
and  not  an  alcoholic  beverage.      Sold  by  druggists  and  grocers. 


ANHEUSER-BUSCH 


ST.  LOUIS,  MO. 


=j 


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THE   BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


"E    Pluribus  Unum" 

Out  of  many  needs,  one  utensil 

Whether  you  need  scoop,  sifter, 
dredger,  strainer,  rice-washer, 
measure  or  dry-mixer, 

GENUINE 

HUNTER'S  SIFTER 

The  Standard  for  a  Huarter^Century 

Is  the  perfect  utensil.  Strong  enough  to 
strain  the  laundry  starch,  or  the  pumpkin 
custard  for  the  pie, 
— fine  enough  to 
sift  the  flour  for 
lightest  cake  or  bis- 
cuit,—neat  enough 
to    adorn 


your  pan- 
try shelf. 

If       ^^ 
your  ^Pt^    dealer  can't 
supply  you,  send  his 

name  and  20ciovGe)i7'i'>e 
Hunter  s  Sifter  postpaid. 

The  Fred  J.  Me  vers  J' %.  Co. 
1514 Bender  St.,    Hamilton.  Ohio 


^•MLL 


A  Poor  unsanitary  refrigerator  will  spoil  the 
best   food.   Why  not  be  up-to-date    and 
have    a  SUCCESS  ALL   STEEL     They  are 
sanitary,  durable,  economical  and  inexpensive. 
Send  for  booklet,  it  costs  you  nothing. 

Success  Manufacturing  Company 

GLOUCESTER.    MASS. 


Book  of  800  Latest  Styles 

The  very  latest;  all  illustrated;  best  published.  Also  contains  complete  illustrated  lessons  in  cutting  and  dressmaking, 
best  published.  BEST,  LATEST  PAPER  PATTERNS,  5c  EACH,  half  price,  for  they  are  just  like  and  just  as  good  as  the 
patterns  sold  in  the  stores  for  10  cents  each.    And  a  first-class  paper  three  years, 

The  Illinois  Farmer  &  Farmer's  Call 

semi-monthly,  big  Woman's  and  Fashion  departments.  I  will  send  you,  post-paid,  my  big  book  of  8oo  latest  styles  illustrated;  sell  you  for  5. 
cents  the  pattern  of  any  of  the  8oo  different  garments  shown  in  my  Style  Book,  or  of  any  of  the  new  style  garments  illustrated  and  described 
jn  every  issue  of  the  Illinois  Farmer  and  Farmer's  Call — this  is  good  for  three  years;  and  the  Illinois  Farmer  and  Farmer's  Call  for  j  years— 
J  years,  remember — all  for  only  40  cents!  Think  of  it!  72  issues  of  a  big  farm  and  home  paper,  with  big  woman's  and  fashion  de- 
partment; book  of  800  latest  styles,  illustrated;  and  privilege  during  three  years  of  buying  any  pattern  at  half  price — you'll  save 
more  than  the  40  cents  in  buying  patterns — all  for  only  40  cents!  Of  course,  I  make  this  offer  to  build  my  subscription  list  up  to  a  certaic 
number,  and  as  soon  as  that  number  is  reached  this  oifcr  will  be  at  once  withdrawn,  hence  send  at  once  to  be  safe.  If  you  send  NOW  yotk 
will  not  forget  it.    Address  ^^^^  ^^   ^^^^^^  21  Jackson  Park  station,  Chicago,  lU 

I  have  been  in  business  27  years.     The  publisher  of  this  paper  knows  I'm  reliable. 


1847  ROGERS  BROS 


guarantees  the  heaviest  triple  plate. 


X  S 

TRIPLE 


FANEU  IL 


NEW  YORK    CHICAGO 


'Silper  Plate 
that  Wears* 

Send  for  catalogue . 
MERIDEN  BRITANNIA  COMPANY 

(International  Silver  Co.,  Successor) 

CHICAGO      MERIOEN,  CONN.       sAN  F 


SAN  FRANCISCO 


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XXX 


ADVERTISEMENTS 


Mudge  Patent  Canner 

A  Household  Necessity 

Quickest,    simplest,   cleanest   and   most   economical 
method  of  canning  fruits  and  vegetables. 

JOHN  L.  GAUMER  CO. 

N.  E.  Cor.  22d  and  Wood  Streets 
PHILADELPHIA,  PA. 


Beautiful  Silverware 


like  a  beautiful  child,  never  fails  to  win  admira- 
tion. Every  little  one  may  not  be  blessed  with 
beauty,  but  this  cannot  be  said  of  Silver  when 
Cleaned  and  Polished  with 


All  tarnish  is  quickly  removed,  and  its  "complexion"  made 
brighter  and  more  attractive  than  ever.  Electro  Silicon 
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tive.   Over  forty  years  the  ^andard.    Send  address  for 

FREE    SAMPLE 

Or  15c.  in  stamps  for  full  sized  box  post-paid. 

The  Electro  Silicon  Co.,  30  Cliff  Street,  New  York. 

Sold  by  Grocers  and  Druggists  Everywhere. 


PREPARE 

FOR 

FRUIT   SEASON 

GET    THE 

Improved  Economy 

Patent  Colander 

It  saves  your  hands. 
It  prevents  mess  and  stains. 

It  saves  lots  of  time,  labor  and  material  in  making 
JELLIES,  BUTTERS,  KETCHUP,  ETC. 

Why   spend   days  on  this  kind   of  work 
when  as  many  hours  will  suffice? 

The  Improved  Economy  is  simple.  The  stand  clamps  to 
the  table  with  a  single  motion;  the  colander  proper  can  be  slip- 
ped on  and  off  the  stand  in  a  second.  The  spiral  blade  has  a  pin 
in  the  center  which  passes  through  a  corresponding  hole  in  the 
colander;  a  spiral  spring  fits  over  this  pin  and  has  a  loop  which 
engages  in  a  groove  in  the  pin.  Twist  the  spring  and  the  loop 
will  jump  out  of  the  groove.  A  slight  pull  lifts  spring  off  pin  and 
the  blade  can  be  removed  ready  for  cleaning.  No  corners  nor 
seams.  Perfectly  SANITARY,  The  Improved  Economy  is 
substantially  made  of  steel  and  a  heavy  double  coating  of  pure 
tin  makes  it  RUST  PROOF.  It  will  last  a  lifetime. 
Write  for  Folder  B.        Do  it  NOW. 


UTILITY    SALES    COMPANY, 

DAVENPORT,  IOWA. 


TESTED   AND   APPROVED 

By  the  Experiment  Stations  conducted  by  Good  House- 
keeping Magazine,  the  N.J.  State  Federation  of  Women's 
Clubs,  and  Prof.  Barnard,  Darien,  Conn. 


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THE    BOSTON    COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE 


m\m 


Mm, 


■O^^^ 


How  One  W>man  Cleaned  Her  White  Parasol 

"I  made  a  strong  suds  of  Ivory  Soap  and,  with  a  soft  hand  brush,  I  scrubbed  the 
upraised  parasol  with  the  Ivory  Soap  suds.  I  scrubbed  hard,  rubbing  the  streaks 
through  the  center  of  the  sections  lengthwise,  until  all  the  stains  were  removed. 
Then  I  rinsed  thoroughly  by  pouring  water  over  the  parasol  and  ended  by  sprinkling 
blueing  water  from  a  water  sprinkler.  The  parasol,  upraised,  was  placed  in  the  sun  to 
dry.  The  result  was  delightful.  Snowy  white  and  just  a  little  stiff,  it  looked  like  new." 

Ivory  Soap  is  primarily  a  purposes  for  which  ordinary 

bath,  toilet  and  fine  laundry  soaps  are  unsafe  and  unsatis- 

Soap ;  but,  because  of  its  pur-  factory.  The  cleaning  of  white 

ity,  it  can  be  used  for  scores  of  parasols  is  a  case  in  point.  ^ 

Ivory  Soap  .  .  •  .  99^^o  Per  Cent.  Pure 


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BOSTON  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 


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